ZVS Induction Heater Work Coil Making
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ย. 2019
- Here is almost everything I have learned about making work coils for induction heaters. You will see that i repeat a few key points on purpose!
Here's a link to a key webpage on coil winding:
spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSIn...
Here are links to my Key "Coil Winding" TH-cam videos. They go into many more specifics than I can cram into one video.
Links:
2500 Watt heater improved setup and initial testing: • 2500 Watt ZVS Inductio...
ZVS Induction Heater, 3 layer, 2 Turn Work Coil Annealing Brass Cartridge Casings
• ZVS Induction Heater, ...
Induction Heater Work Coil Swaging
• Induction Heater Work ...
2 Turn X 3 Layer Coil for Brass Cartridge Annealing; Make it And Test Inductance
• 2 Turn X 3 Layer Coil ... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks so much for the excellent hints and suggestions that you provide in this video. They will come in handy for me very soon as I will be building a 1500 watt ZVS induction heater and home made power supply.
Thank you for taking the time to post this. I can’t wait to buy a zvs driver and build my own induction forge.
I've bought 2 of them from ebay, I spent 30+30 euros.
Outstanding job sir. Please continue to teach us about ZVS induction technologies.
A wonderful primer. Thank you!
Great information,
I have had some luck using a lead screw as a mandrill.
Thanks a lot for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for your splendid tutorial!
Thank you for all your work and sharing in your interest and fun. These tour de force videos on these induction heaters are very helpful and of great value to me.
Some excellent tips, thanks👍
Thanks for the informative video, I notice that you appear to be making the coils from stock that has been supplied in coiled lengths. I think that if you annealed the copper to red heat then cooled it in water you will find that in the annealed state it will bend much more easily and with the smaller sizes it will probably bend round a plain mandrel without any flattening.
The manufacturer already annealed it coil it and the coil is relatively large so it's still pretty soft. I believe it's the Type K or L tubing, which comes in straight lengths that is NOT annealed after the last draw that would need annealing before bending it.
I've always found that even in the coiled state and supposedly annealed it always coils and bends better after annealing even from a brand new coil.
@@frenchcreekvalley
Thank you very much for all the efforts! I am kind of new do this topic and especially to your channel - can you suggest me some sources of more theoretical information on coil winding? I mean: what's the effect of more turns? what's the effect of a wider diameter? is a wider OD critical? And so on :)
Thank you very much!
It's not just the coil. You have to take into account the whole system that drives the final work coil.
Here are several references for you:
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Here's one:
electronbunker.ca/eb/InductanceCalcML.html
Here's another:
www.plustherm.com/power-calculation.html
You might try this online course:
fluxtrol.com/education-online-induction-heating-course
I haven't taken it myself, but there will be some datasheets in there that will interest you.
Also, Google "resonant frequency formula"
I hope this helps.
Some good ideas thanks. Could you fill the tube temporarily with a fine grainrd powder if its packed well might hold its form?
Just too much messing around. Sure it works, but I don't need to go to all the extra trouble. People use frozen water, sand, salt, etc.. Once the material is in the tube, you have to crimp or solder the ends shut so the material can't move AT ALL! Once the bend is completer, you can spend a lot of time trying to get ALL of the powder or whatever out of the whole tube. The finer that "powder" the more it will compact.
Thanks for summarizing this information Sir, it saves a lot of experimenting efforts for other starting zvs users / tinkerers.
While gathering induction info in other places I found induction energy used in boltloosening devices. I'm not sure if zvs technology is used there but I'm sure its induction heating. Do you think it is possible to mount about 2 - 3 ft stranded copperwire to the unit and then mount a coil to that wire in order to loosen rusted bolts on a car for example ?
Maybe it is not necessary to cool the coil as it is used only for shorter period of a few minutes. And maybe it would even be possible to run some silicon tubing along the wires in order to cool the coil.
My biggest question is the power loss through the extrendes wires. Maybe the extension has an dampening effect on the freguency or maybe it effects the effective inductance of the coil as seen bij the ZVS device.
I would love to hear your opinion on this subject. (or maybe you already have had some hands-on experience and footage that you can turn into another marvellous video ;) )
Here's how one guy did it:
th-cam.com/video/F6GbesTHZLc/w-d-xo.html
I have not tried this yet, but, for water cooling, you can buy copper braided hydraulic hose that should work:
www.amazon.com/d/Fuel-Lines/BRAIDED-COPPER-FUEL-HOSE-INCH/B079TYRHCP?th=1
I don't know about the power loss with, let;s say a 3 foot long extension "cable", but I do think the inductance does cancel on parallel conductors, so it might be worth a try. I do know that sellers of commercial induction heaters do sell such a thing:
www.mettleworks.com/hot/index.html#link-Accessories
Hi, very interesting and educational, thanks for sharing!!
What kind of insulation do you slip onto your coils? Where can one source these?
Thank you,
J
Hello Jake.
Here is the sleeving that I use to insulate the work coils:
Φ1~40mm White 600°C HIGH TEMP Fiberglass Sleeving Wire Cable Insulating Tube
www.ebay.com/itm/153050276433
I usually order the 6mm sleeving. It is flexible enough to fit easily over the 1/4" O.D. copper tubing that I use for coils. I did buy some 8mm sleeving at one time and it works okay, but is a little loose on that tubing.
HI, great videos...thank you. I wonder have you tested different diameter of coils and spacing between each turn....how does this impact performance please? If you had to heat 2 quarts of water how would you do this?
I haven't done a lot of work changing spacing between turns, but what little I have done suggests that wider turn spacing simply heats a longer area of the workpiece, but doesn't add much if anything to the total power delivered to the load.
I would not use induction heating to heat water. It would be more efficient to simply use an electric hot plate to do the job. Or, maybe an immersion heater.
I would like to make a thread groove on the lathe but have not figured the follower part yet. But this was soo much help. What do you think?
I think that making a groove coarse enough for a work coil would be hard to do. Your lathe would have to be able to feed at 3 or 4 threads per inch, I think.
----and run at no faster than about 20 rpms.
I have another question. My annealer is finished, and I wanted to get some advice on how far up inside the three turn three three layer coil I built from your suggest coil. (meaning I currently have my cases with the neck almost to the top of the coil) I'm running a 1000w @48v ZVS but I want to make sure I'm not over annealing my brass. I have the 750F tempilaq on the way, since I only have 700F on hand. currently my unit is running 2 seconds, and burns off the 700F about a 1/4 down from the shoulder. do you have a video showing what my case should look like after using the tempilaq ? or any suggestions what to look for other than purchasing a hardness tester. Again thank you for your time, and I hope I described what I am looking for for info
When I was doing my testing of the 3 X 3 coil, I was setting the top of the cartridge case just about level with the top of the coil, pretty much as you say you are doing.
You make an excellent point about over annealing or annealing too far down the case. That issue has always bothered me. If it were me, I think I'd be dropping the cartridge into water immediately to minimize this problem. (Rapid water cooling of copper-bearing alloys does not effect their structure like it does for many iron bearing alloys.)
You should ask your question on one of the many gun and reloading websites out there. I will bet that you get a lot of divergent answers, though.
Here's one of them: forum.accurateshooter.com/
👍👍👍😊
Sorry, one other question please...I've seen that you have tried different diameters of pipe....what if you put a smaller diameter pipe inside a larger diameter pipe...would both heat up or just the larger of the two?
Yes, both layers will still heat the work. I have not tried doing exactly as you suggest, but I have made multi-layer coils that work well.
have you repurposed the induction cook tops to work with your coil designs?
No I have not done that.
A few people have worked with those inductance cooktops or "HOBS" as they are sometimes called, but it seems that they are pretty hard to "hack" for any other practical use.
Here is a link to one very popular engineer (Mads Barnkob) who did a 5 part series about them:
th-cam.com/video/Mjsws9rZZO8/w-d-xo.html
@@frenchcreekvalley i have seen his videos. i am from india, i am putting together an induction heater to forge a head onto a 6mm stainless steel shaft. this is for a large volume production. if it works i hope to employ a few of them to get the job done. the proffessional ones are prohibitively expensive. i will let you know how it goes in a day or two. thanks for the reply.
Can you use a pancake induction coil with the 5-12v zvs induction heater?
Yes you can. I tested a pancake coil on both my 1000 watt and 2500 watt heaters.
See:
th-cam.com/video/iLBSsJn7z-I/w-d-xo.html
and
th-cam.com/video/8dplJ4HhyM0/w-d-xo.html
I'd say I had limited results, but the value for you will depend on what you need to accomplish.
@@frenchcreekvalley Thank you.
you're a gentleman and a scholar
@@damienwade7848 Thank you for your kind words!
But I somehow missed the point that you are asking about the "5-12v induction heater" when I gave you the links to the 1000 and 2500 watt units. That 5-12 volt unit, running on 12 volts, can only deliver a maximum of, maybe, 100 watts (340 BTU) to the work. That won't be enough to heat much of anything. When I tested that unit a few years ago, I could heat a 10 penny nail up to red hot in about 20 seconds, but that's about it.
Thank you for clarifying.
i tried to send you an email, i would like to ask you a specific question about coil cooling and various metals
Hello Blain.
email me at: spaco@baldwin-telecom.net