Building a 1.4kW Induction Heater
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2024
- It's about time I built an induction heater, so here it is!
JLCPCB: $2 for 2Layer, 5pcs & $5 for 4Layer, 5pcs: jlcpcb.com/DYE
Schematic, components, PCB gerber files & much more can be found on my website here: www.schematix.co.nz/forum/how...
Schematix
0:00 intro
0:12 Components
0:49 Inductors
2:20 PCB assembly
3:48 JLC Ad
5:26 Copper Coil
11:45 Power supply
13:37 First powerup
15:43 Heating metal
16:43 Final thoughts
Information provided in this video is for educational purposes only.
If you attempt to recreate/replicate anything you’ve seen in this Or any other video, you’re doing so at your own risk. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I've worked with induction heating since 1987. Really nice project. The heating power is quite impressive and has the potential for more. The magnetic flux decreases by the square of the distance to the work. With a tight coil you would couple much better to the output. Of course, the current would still be limited by the power supply and resonant circuit. Commercial coils are filled with sand when winding so that they don't collapse, especially with small diameter coils. Afterward, they are sprayed with Glyptol to provide insulation. Many times they are also lined with a refractory tube, and cast in refractory cement. If not potted, larger bare coils have some type of insulating structural spacers attached parallel to the axis of the coil on the outside to prevent the coil from jumping when energized. Invariably the output coils are water-cooled in all sizes of induction heaters. It's true, you don't want to get bit. Radiofrequency is more than a shock. I once contacted the 650-volt dc buss on a 300KW machine in Yonkers. It knocked me back six feet against a piece of equipment. I was lucky. The most dangerous job I've ever had.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
I think you meant to say the flux is proportional to the distance taken to the fourth power.
Nnnbvmkç mini
Đfyy7
magnetism decreases with the fourth power of the distance, not the square
Not lucky, fortunate.
You deserve a standing ovation for providing us a link to your project on your website + for itemizing the contents of this video +listing those contents + adding time-links to the individual contents. You have earned another subscriber, sire. Bravo to your for your clear-minded efforts and lack of confusing waffle.
>sire
>waffle
lmao are you an npc
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You took the words out of my mouth! (I agree, exactly) Thanks for sharing so much detailed info, Schematix
I am truly impressed by your overall presentation and methods. I picked up your channel a few months back but have never had the chance to drop you a comment. Thank you sincerely for sharing your knowledge as you have definitely cleared up many doubts I had in my mind that were preventing me from getting better. Good luck with your studies and keep up the good work.
From Texas USA
Incredibly easy to follow and understand. You are among my top 5 for this type tutorial and lessons.
Some of the concepts you presented here helped solidify my solutions for other projects I'm working on.
Many thanks
Can this be used for water heaters?
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I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw him drilling into wood. Genius!
This is the “cleanest” induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
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This is the "cleanest" induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
@@blazer6248 This is the “cleanest” induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
👍😁
This is my first visit to your channel / site, and I am exceedingly impressed with your video presentation!!
Your very detailed documentation is of the highest quality!
I have now subscribed with much excitement 🙂
Since ancient times, I love your work. Thank you for this wonderful work and excellent presentation, wishing you success and success.
Nicely done! Speaking on behalf of those of us just venturing into the realm of electronics and induction heating I found your presentation quite informative, logical, linear and very easy to follow! Top notch.
You are the coolest DYI’er out there! You tell what your doing, explain how or where to get parts and or assemblies and then show the detail of the build. Outstanding!
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You haven't seen, Styropyro have you? He builds 3 million Watt, handheld laser shooters and stuff. Makes this look like baby toys.
I used to build RF Induction heaters back in the 80's. We used big tubes back then by Siemens. All the components were hand made, The coils were water cooled, 1.2 KW were the small ones and had some monster ones that were in cabinets equal to server cabinets. Spaulding had used a couple of ours when they had defective grips on their golf clubs and needed to remove them. The machines had fittings on them so different coils could be used to match the projects and the machine had variable current controls and timers.
I got acquainted with induction at a gold caster with gas , induction was a shock to see the speed and localised heat instead of all the heat dissipated in the room. Good job you did.
Best and most Original Sponsorship Ad for JLC PCB I've ever seen. It makes me want to watch through it instead of skipping
Real shit! Been lookin erwhere for that home made microwave PCB homie....Don't kno wut it is... But that dude has IT 😂😄😁
This is the "cleanest" induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
This is the “cleanest” induction heater build I have seen on YT. Very nice build! Thank you for sharing your art and your science.
The project is cool and all. But the things I really appreciate are all the little tip and tricks you show as you execute the build.
Great video. Love how you explain mistakes so we can also learn from them.
This is a beautiful video, very pedagogic and nicely presented. I did forsee the lack of powermanagement in the printed tracks. Solder is not a very good electric leader, so I thought, this is going to melt. In my own induction heater , I solder a cupper track on the printed board to cope with the rising amps :-))
Unexpected find in my feed. Thanks for posting. Great attention to detail.
Given the usefulness of induction heating for mechanics removing seized rusted bolts, this should be a common tool.
Amazing project, very well explained. It's a pleasure, once taken the needed time, to realize that still, there is people in YT that present projects AND talk about them knowing what they´re doing and why it's working. Cheers
Dido👍
Best induction heater build I've ever seen. Looks great and I loved your meticulous attention to detail. Very fine work indeed sir. One question though...On the Gerber files, would it be an issue to increase the thickness of the traces, in particular the fat ones you have to tin and add more copper to the traces? I was thinking about building this version, but either ordering the PCB with the thickest traces I could select or adding a copper busbar or long copper braid in addition to the tinning on the fat traces. I don't know if that would make much of a difference, but I like the idea of improving the current-carrying potential.
Also, if I may offer a suggestion. I had an induction heater similar to yours a few years back and I used a water pump, silicone tubing, a water reservoir, and a CPU AIO radiator from a retired CPU cooler and attached the tubing to both ends of the copper coil creating a water-cooled induction coil which worked really well. I bet that would help your desoldering problem and avoid overheating the PCB.
just found you! Great. love your creativity and the reference to mehdi :)
Awesome video, I've learned so much! Like…I'm not gonna build that, I'd trip my protection here, but still. Awesome.
The pure skill behind this video is breathtaking.
I really like the pinching heatsink. Way easier to attach semi conductor with just a screwdriver. Nice to know this trick Schematix.
I suggest a slight design change to improve things: connect one end of the coil to the capacitor farthest from the coil. This will better average current to each capacitor.
The capacitor nearest (#1) the coil is handling more than its fair share of current, which is why the solder melted there.
The capacitor furthest (#10) from the coil is handling the least current.
Like you said, there is hundreds of amps flowing through the traces and will preferentially flow where there is lower resistance. It may not matter at low power but there might be some fireworks at high power.
I built one of these using the center-tap variation. It uses a second fixed 12v supply on the driver side to keep the mosfet gates happy.
Awesome project. Thanks.
2:52 To be honest, I like the look of the diode standing up like that, it makes it look artful, many time I wish guys that create one off's boards would purposely do that, That is probably why i have always been a fan of Manhattan-style PCB's
Don't try that artful thing with anything that moves.....
Not recommended in radio receivers. It’s a source of noise.
@@tonydoggett7627 lol Depends if one is trying to make a spark gap radio
@@patprop74 my experience of mounting diodes like that years ago in a am receiver. Once the leads were shortened and the diodes laid flat the interference went.
I like how this guy explains stuff, very precise and calm
There was lot of useful information from this video. I liked the last part even more, you said the solder melted due to more current. Keep it up man
One suggestion:
For the two main high-frequency busses: Instead of filling them with solder, skin some ROMEX (12 or 14AWG solid) make them straight and put two of these next to the capacitor leads on each bus and cover everything with solder.
Or better yet, if you can machine two rectangular copper busses with holes for capacitors, do it.
For the caps: Search Digi-Key for film capacitors and "high pulse dv/dt" capacitors.
These capacitors will carry huge AC currents and their ESR must be as low as possible.
....And NO you may NOT replace two paralled capacitors with one of double capacitance !!!
Eeek! Why you may not "replace two paralled capacitors with one of double capacitance" ??
Could you not simply increase the thickness (4oz) and area of the busses? iirc he said 30Amps should be able to be carried by a thick enough trace, although adding 10ga or 12ga wire should also work with the lack of mechanical robustness, and additional build work.
I know its typical for ppl to argue about soldering but when solging the copper tabs to the coil it helps to heat where u want the solder to go so it can work its way to thier with capilary action.
Nice project! One of very few high power induction heater videos without lies about the power. I've seen people claiming
over 2000W, but the actual power was only 200-300W. This one delivers the advertised power. Thanks!
You did a great job,well-engineered. I suppose you should create a special high current driven path for that high amount of current, the simplest form is to create multiples through-holes in the path to make it temperature-tolerated and well-ventilated. Thanks for sharing
For an instant I thought you were going to hook it up to to a welding machine there. Nice little machine you made.
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I love how it looks exactly like a regular induction heater module except it's 100x the size
I have build one as well years back. You can increase heating power by making lower diameter coil. You can also try to play with value of capacitor bank - By increasing or decreasing the capacity you change the resonance frequency of the whole circuit. Different materials and thicknesses heats better at a different frequencies
Just came across this by chance and am impressed by your easy going easy to follow methodology, so I'm in. (From Wales UK)
You may be able to order the boards made from much thicker copper. 35 micron is kind of standard but 140 micron is pretty widely available also, as long as you don't need fine features. Otherwise, yeah, soldering solid copper wires will also do the trick.
You would be amazed at the cost per board when getting the thicker copper compared to the thinner standard stuff.
You could also just make the traces wider. There's tons of unused board space there, and really no reason you couldn't make those traces 2 to 3 times the size they currently are..
You could also put the traces on both sides of the board (with a good number of vias connecting them along the way), basically doubling the amount of copper that way as well.
This man deserve more subscribers
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Il mérite surtout d'aller prendre des cours avant de conseiller les gens
@@jacquylenoir9097 I don't understand what you are saying say in English
I like your quicky power supply. I bought a transformer by error for my bench mill but didn't need it because I purchase a 120V single phase input. I also saved a verac when they closed the building down and move us from Illinois to North Carolina. I package power electronics so was absolutely going to solder copper to the power input and output traces.
We use an induction heater for welding steel tube at work. Ours runs at 800 volts, is rated for 800 kW, and uses a frequency of about 135 hz.
You can increase efficiency, and therefore power, by decreasing the gap between your coil and the heated object. Try it with a piece of steel pipe with a diameter of ½-1" smaller diameter.
An old stick welder can make a decent high current power supply.
Also, quenching the copper isn't necessary for annealing, air cooling is fine. Both ways work.
Do you know the voltage on a stick welder when the transformer is loaded?
@@jcglessner that is a very hard to answer questiom. It depends on the transformer, it depends on the load, it depends on whether or not the magnetic shunt has been removed.
Typically, open circuit voltage on a simple ac welder is anywhere between 50 and 120V. Arc voltage hovers around 20~35V
@@randomelectronicsanddispla1765 I think you just answered why those are not such a good idea.
Quenching only hardens
@@mrgreenswelding2853 You are talking about steel not copper!!!!!!
Would be cool to redesign this so it can accept three different coils interchangeably. 1 coil for 8mm through 15mm nuts/bolts, one for 17mm through 33mm bolts/nuts, and one coil with extended flexible leads (up to 24" for heating nuts/bolts from 8mm thru 17mm nuts/bolts which are in harder to reach spaces (in an engine compartment of an old rusty car/resto mod)...
Explained very well. Bringing me to my earlier days of electronics hobbies
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Due to such people we are living in this modern era and enjoying easy and cosy life. Thanks man.. 👍
I love your sense of humor .
ض
I just discovered your channel. Nice build!. I do have one suggestion, though. As a relative newcomer to electronics, I'd have found it very useful if you had explained some of the theory behind how this works. Not necessarily down to the level of the equations, but explaining the basic principles: what you're doing with all those capacitors and the two inductors, what the mosfets are for, and so on. Or maybe you have that in a separate video that I missed.
👍
Very nice and complete step-by-step tutorial. You made everything available. Good video!
Thank for sharing. Very good explanation. People like you make a difference. God bless you.
3:35 solder has about 10x resistance of copper, so better re-inforce your track with a couple of lengths of the 1-2.5mm2 copper wire (soldered on)
And also does NOT "carry hundreds of amps" like he said.
R M
Resonance is crazy dude, a self-exciting resonant tank circuit can take a few miliamps but the current in the circuit can reach a few amps.
@John Smith , good to know!
@@cezarcatalin1406 But it will reach equilibrium where resistance dissipates the current so it cannot rise further. It won't be carrying 100s of amp for sure.
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Nice!
I use de soldering braid to beef up the traces on some of my projects where high current is required.
Hmmm I could use this to re flash the getters in the old hollow state valves.
I really need to find a guy like you in southern California. Your video (and knowledge) just blew me away!.. Just catching on - thank you for sharing👍
If you need thicker tracings, I would recommend adding solid Cu wires, or my favorite is solder wick because leads can be poked through it which hold it in place and transfer power directly to the copper wick.
This video was great but needed more Echo and gain for whenever you said "Full Bridge Rectifier". only complaint :P Great video Amon :D
True! I'll have to up my editing skillz ;)
@@Schematix gain added during editing only amplifies all the noise along with the poor vocals.
Amigo, pessoas como você é que faz o mundo melhor! PARABÉNS , assistindo do Brasil.
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It's so easy to understand you. Thank you for sharing this brilliant idea.
I am new to electrical world and admire of your work. Thanks alot
Nice layout but ideally the mosfet should not heat up much and the mass majority of the currant should go within the coil and the capacitor bank. I have made quite a few ZVS and basically you can optimize it by 1. change gate charge resistance until mosfet stays cool, and 2. add capacitors until the frequency reaches close to audible range. I would increase the coil count to maybe 10 turns for 48v input and double the capacitor bank. If the mosfets are too warm, upgrade low R-DS mosfets and or decrease gate drive resistance.
How can you increase the frequency to about 400khz?
Congratulations on the project, very interesting. I would like to know what resource you use on the cad PCB to leave the copper track and protective vernis to fill with solder afterwards?
Lovely design. I like to save used solder wick for running along very high current traces.
This is brilliant. With this, I can become master of the iron heater! INDUCTANCE!
prove me wrong but from a smiths point of view, annealing is heating themetal and let it cool *slowly* down to room temperature :P
That all depends on whether you're dealing with a ferrous or a non-ferrous metal. The end result of thermal cycling is a desired crystal structure in the metal. If you want hard copper either work the metal or toss it into a 350F oven for an hour and turn off the oven with the metal inside. If you want soft copper heat it the same way an toss it into a bucket of cold water.
@@artjoly6348 I agree:-))
Quenching in water has little effect on the final product as the high temperature is what allows the crystals to reform, however quenching it is just faster and can make the outside look nicer. Iron can be work-hardened as well and quenching will have little effect on the heated iron just as copper. Steel WILL harden as it is the rearrangement of the carbon atoms that occurs at higher temperatures that give steel it's high hardness, which obviously if cooled fast enough (tempering), won't have time to go back to their original places, leaving the material in a highly stressed and brittle state, which is essentially what makes a material hard
@@Jakob6174 "if cooled fast enough (tempering)" - uh no, that's the hardening/quenching you're thinking about. Tempering is reducing the stress in the material which, when it comes to steel, is achieved by heating it up to a low , non-glowing heat and maintaining it there for a while giving the carbon atoms enough time and energy to get into a "more comfortable" position, but still kinda stuck in the iron atom lattice. On a macro level this gets us a compromise between hardness and toughness which is desirable for most applications like knives, tools and springs.
I'll add this as well: there aren't any other common alloys that can be hardened through heat treatment (maybe some aluminium alloys), but nearly all of them can be work hardened, as that is just a function of the crystal grains elongating while you're deforming the metal until they have nowhere else to move. Moving it beyond that point will cause a break, but the force required to break it is usually much higher than what it previously took to bend it, hence the hardening. Heating it up after work hardening gives it a change to recrystalize so it can be deformed further without breaking, which is also why forging works.
Correct but copper,gold and silver work differently from carbon based alloys
Just fyi, when annealing the copper tubing it is best to let it cool down slowly and not to quench it quickly as shown.
It doesn't matter. I'm a commercial reloading brass processor and I've designed and built annealing machines. Quench or not, it anneals either way.
Thaught I had it wrong for fifty years for a moment 😊 thanks Richard
I thought it was super weird he was trying to reduce the hardness/brittleness by quenching ! That's basically what you do to increase hardness.
@@ironfront9573 only for steel/ferrous. You can quench brass it doesn't matter
I really like this channel. He is a good teacher who has edgy humor and a lot of craftmanship! This device looks sooooo cool. I also like Frankenstein power supply...it looks so badassy.
Thank you! Just found the channel and i am so glad. Very insightful into the point. Quite refreshing!!
12:01- ElectroBOOM!!!
Obviously it's him...
😂🤣😂 thanks I was wondering lol
Indeed
Literally any time I here those 3 words
kanka burda 2 türk bi biz varız!
Can't be: the hair is different.
Bahahaha! Nice Electroboom reference lol
Don't know how I stumbled on this video, I have no clue when it comes to electronics, but I found myself glued to it 😁 Great video 👍
Gorgeous looking board and minimalistic design. BOM is really appreciated along with other treats. You da man!
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@@vs-gc3hb What is that, clickbait RR? Links without a description are usually rubbish.
@@headbanger1428 sorry
@@vs-gc3hb Sorry what?? What is the link about, or remove it.
@@headbanger1428 with iron smelting rock
I hear Mehdi's Voices when he said *FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER*
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Same as soon as I heard FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER I thought of all the times he said it
That guy is pretty crazy, but he sure does know how to make people remember important vocabulary. If only all teachers were so creative.
Teachers: *start saying stuff like INTEGERS or FRACTIONS
(Not as good as FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER)
@@ethangreen2022 If my highschool teacher said INTEGERS and FRACTIONS with the enthusiasm of the "FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!" I would have really enjoyed math class, lol.
The accent might be part of it too. It never fails to make me laugh.
For softening Don't water quench. let cool slow.
I tried it hundreds of times it is better if you cool it in water!!
@@johnhili8664 & zippy. For high carbon steel quenching in water from red heat will harden the metal. But for copper quenching will soften it.
Just discovered your channel looking for induction solder pots. Your channel is gold. The Aussie who said KIWI stands for keen interest without intelligence was sooo wrong. 😂
Nice work. Super interesting! Thanks from Canada.
But my microwave doesn't have a PCB button :(
what no PCB setting, scrap it
12:02 no no no it's " FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER "
rektifier*
Wreckdafire
I think if you make the connection of the coil in the center of the PCB you reduce the current running in the traces. At the end of the trace you have the max current running, in the center it comes from left and right and therefore the maximum current in particular part of the trace is less.
Thanks for the video. Best I have seen so far. I have learned a lot.
I would have laid the cap legs down and used them as a back bone to hold more solder on those traces.
FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!!!!!
The first thing the that came to mind during your assembly... don't cut off the cap leads, bend them over as extra current members. I've soldered paperclips to make higher current traces. (I don't always have a spool of 8AWG wire sitting around.)
Great tech details on induction heater n its limits including safety cautions.
Can you mad one for melting gold thanks
You can melt gold but it needs to be in a graphite crucible.
12:02 the one with a bushy unibrow? (Also has boom in the name)
Must be AvE.
No. It is ElectroBoom
@@ethangreen2022 I know, It was BigCliveDotCom.
I was fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time to strip a metallurgical laboratory and its equipment, i have the innards of a Leco corp induction furnace that operates with a 304tl tube, its super clean and simple, wish i could post some pics for you lads
This is hot stuff from Down Under! Nice built and well explained!
BUILD ONE BIG ENOUGH TO PASS A STEAK THOUGH AND COOK IT IN LESS THAN 1 MINUTE
proving there is iron in a good steak!
Those who disliked are those who literally tried to make pcb like that 😂
I like your profile pic. ❤️
@@Sufian95 thanks
He is lord Chhatrapati shivaji maharaj
@@hardikjohri6251 I always wonder who the WEASELS are that don't appreciate how much this man is doing towards basically FREE sharing of his hardwom chops in the electronics realm! So he's selling kit parts, at least you can enjoy the experience of what are often over $1,000.00 USD! At 1/3 the cost a large Chinese company of common electronics that starts with a B have sparse distribution of the actual item in question I've got ABSOLUTELY zero skills to build this item, but I would look forward to paying someone to help me to learn this!
The little piece of humour really cracked me up! Thank you! Very interesting!
I would like to see a walk through of the schematic.
Tip: When bending metal tubes fill them with sand and crimp the ends, this will prevent them from 'collapsing' (you got away with it in this case because the bend radius was quite large...)
electromagetic Induction rules apply here, ie your coil is to big and far away from the objects so far less effective
ElectroBOOM would be proud of your secret jokes
Quite cool thanks for the details
Jean-François
Building a 1.4kW Induction Heater ....creative and I'm happy to see the video, success for "Schematix ....."....Pekalongan, Central Java, Indonesia OK
اهو 17 نئون انفرافيشن منگل کان وڌيڪ آهي ، جيئن ڪئينٽ جي ڪيس جي شماريات ڏيکاري ٿي. هينئر تائين رجسٽرڊ ٿيل انفيڪشن جو تعداد 6928 وڌي ويو آهي - فعال ڪيسن جو تعداد 1601 آهي.
Can't I use a realroid instead of a "toyroid"?
That might make it hard to sit down...
He was just playing with us.
There is some guys here that excite me so much how good they know their stuff, really cool, really nice! Keep it up!! Man was created a clever being with big brains! Can we use this for cooking with solar power? Thanks
just lovely. and perfect shoutout at 12:03
"toyroid" ? ..that's funny? :)
Did you miss the location tag from New Zealand or would you have been amused nonetheless?
Excellent workmanship
With changes to the circuit board and the coil, you could apply the power from the MOSFETs directly to the ends of the coil. By extending length of the copper used in the coil, the straight portions could be lengthened, You could them use multiple terminals per side on the coil to not only have multiple points on contact between the PCB traces but also extend those traces for the capacitors to the board edge. Since the drain is connected to the connected to the heat sink anyway it does not matter if the heat sink inadvertently touches the copper. Having three terminals would allow the power to be sent through the copper pipe as well as the traces and if the traces extend to the edge they are wider and the current will have more paths to travel in the trace so heat dissipation should also be spread. Plus you can do that on both sides of the board. and also use thinker (not just wider) copper traces.
Once again, a brilliant video about an interesting subject.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Sincerely,
Scott C. Roland
CEO Blue Ridge Holdings, LLC.