An introduction to making coils for blacksmith forging on the LH-15a induction heater. References: Gerald Bogg's axe making article: www.geraldboggs... Coil Jig video: coming soon
I did similar in that I ordered some extra metric flare nuts and some short sections of metric tubing. Then I just solder this to imperial sized tubing commonly available in the US. I did the adaptors as well also and I think it is worth the extra couple dollars. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Without looking, yes I believe these are the sizes. I got a little tool from home depot which helps. Cant think what's it called but its basically a stepped "awl" that you tap into the tube to expand slightly. So it is not flared with a regular flare tool but something that flares deeper if that makes sense. The tool from HD is actually made for just this purpose. Another tip I have is that you can get some inexpensive fiberglass covering on ebay to slip over your coils which is real nice I think.
Nice video Eric. I recently purchased the same unit and have some supplies to make coils. I'm particularly interested in experimenting with a pancake coil so get away from the "it has to fit inside" problem. I know the pancake is likely to have much less coupling but as long as it gets things up to forging temps I really don't mind somewhat longer heat times. I also expect the pancake will be pretty useful for thin materials and projects (like leaves, etc.) but will probably not be very efficient or even usable much beyond a cm or so.
We're on the same wavelength Eric. I have used the "end of the coil" area for flat/thin material. I was also thinking of the 2 gap 2 using the gap for "diameter limited" pieces. There should be more field concentration in the gap than at the ends of the solenoid. There is nothing that says each of the "2" have to be the same diameter either. I am continually trying to come up with a "one coil fits almost all" design. Maybe a couple different sized solenoids, each with a gap? I have seen designs with two or more parallel solenoids separated by a few inches.It seems that as long as the overall inductance is in range that would work. Again, there may be some inefficiency but I could live with somewhat longer heat times if that's all it took.
Good evening from Greece. Mr Dean Would you or somebody else reading it mind telling me if this mashine is still in market and who sells this kind of mashine?. Thank you very very much Maria
Great videos! Yu've convinced me to buy one. Have you tried piggybacking a small piece to be forged with a larger piece, like laying a 1/4" sq on a 3/4" square instead of changing the coil?
I have done that to get a chisel edge to temperature for hardening. The edge is too small to get much direct heating and the other bar really evens out the heat. Otherwise, I just switch coils.
hi may have missed it qualified UK blacksmith i never realised you could forge weld in these and make your own coils , always thought they were a gimick for forging but im starting to rethink thanks to your videos , did you mention the price of one of these in any of your videos ? and what are other options for water cooling can you just run water through it from a hose and let it flow out ? we dont have much of a water issue in wales lol thanks
Eric, I've been enjoying your videos and am considering taking the plunge. In this video, you show your winding jig and say that you are going to make a separate video showing how you made the jig. I can't seem to find that video. Can you post a link to it or give a short explanation of how you made it? Thanks and thanks for the great videos!
@@ejoftheanvil Eric, thanks! I'll look into them as a source. I did get an induction unit through eBay that looks identical to yours but made by a different manufacturer. I'm having trouble getting good heat out of it and I am wondering if you have any thoughts. I've made a new coil with an interior diameter of about 1 5/8 inches, but I'm only getting a dull red heat in 1/2 bar stock. What do you think I am doing wrong?
Hello Eric. Thanks for the great videos. I am playing with smaller (almost toy-like) 1000 watt induction heaters, but I am interested in this one. First a question: How do you adjust the frequency of your unit? I can't tell from the description or even from the downloaded manual Now, an answer: Here's the sleeving that I am using to protect my work coils: (This is an ebay product description. The vendor is: electricslee 1meter- Manhattan F240-2AWG (6.68mm) 240°C Fiberglass high temperature sleeving You may have to shop around for sleeving that will go over your 8mm tubing, but this stuff, which fits very easily over my 6mm or 1/4" soft copper tubing, does have some diametrical flexibilty. Last: Re- finding tubing that fits--- How hard would it be to simply go inside the machine and convert that tubing to "American" size? Then there would be no fooling around to adapt new coils. Pete Stanaitis ----------------------
Regarding the sleeving: I also bought some locally, from an electric motor repair guy who used to rewind motors in his shop. The largest stuff he had would barely slide onto the 6mm OD tubing that came with my unit. It seems like it isn't totally fiberglass, as it does turn brown, a bit. I had to go to the stuff I mention above when I went to 1/4" tubing (which, just to be clear) IS 1/4" OD.
I've found the standard coil shipped with the LH-15A ( 3 turns) is about 1/2 microHenery. And FYI, I'm able to run my "220 volt" unit on a 208 volt circuit ( that is two 120volt circuits 120degrees out of phase in stead of 180 degrees).
Hello, we are a big manufacturer of induction heating machine, we have been in this line for over 10 years. our website is www.lhinduction.com. email: lh-global@lihuachina.com wechat/whatapp: +86 159 7586 0724. Welcome to inquiry me!
Its to bad you do not have a laith. If u could chuck up the winding mandrel. And wind all your turns on it. And i was woundering if you aneal the copper before winding or is too thin of a wall ?
This copper comes annealed. It's not difficult to bend by hand, but it is difficult to keep it from collapsing without something to support it (either inside, like fine sand, or outside like a groove or channel that prevents flattening).
I would be very Interested in the math and physics behind it and in more common practices in coil winding. Have you made any progress there? Appropriate literature is hardly available
There is commercial coil simulation software, but it's expensive. Further, the literature is focused on industrial process which has a precise shape in mind rather than an evolving hand-forged shape. That mostly leaves us with general principles and rule-of-thumb to guild a trial-and-error process.
4 inch tubing? With a greater than 4" diameter coil, you can probably do two wraps. I'd try about a 1/2" spacing between them. Two wraps is kinda pushing the envelope, tho. If you can't do two, you will need to make a coil with a pair of Tee's. That's two wraps in parallel instead of the normal series wrap. (I need to make a video about that...)
Christian: the induction heater probably requires more pressure than your pump can handle. Look at th-cam.com/video/rNZkxVRb5Ys/w-d-xo.htmlm16s to see what I did (procon pump head). A very small irrigation pump is another option.
The "ab" units split the coil part out. You could use that to keep most of the unit safer / cleaner. Also, you can switch out coil units so that you can have two different coil lengths. In most cases, the "ab" option isn't really compelling.
The front female/male fittings i could net get for my unit and seller refused to sell me any as said did not exist. Given its 9/16 thread is a pain in the A to get over in Europe so I have to make my own. Have you tried anything with Magnetic flux concentrators yet
I am Not dealing with Li Hua people, my machine is a HT-15A from HITO Technology. They are essentially the same thing. Will be making my own Threaded F/M extensions soon enough as thread shavings are showing up.
Commercial made ferrite core or a DIY one? I have an interest in trying a mouldable resin mix similar to fluxtrol or perhaps a sodium silicate based binder so its baked to a hard ceramic.
The stand-alone units are pretty low power by blacksmithing standards and they have special detectors to make sure a pot is on them. So, they'd likely balk at heading metal rod. Even if they would turn on the heater, it would be slow because of low power and flat coil. Now, tearing into one to re-purpose it and add your own coils (with water cooling). Maybe. In my book, more trouble than it's worth. But, once someone had it all figured out we could all copy them :-).
@@mihazajc7395 Yes. Doing that bypass would depend on the model of cooker. However, with a big enough piece, I don't think you'd need a bypass. The is also the problem of holding your stock. You might be able to use a thin piece of ceramic or mica insulator and just set it on the cooker. I would be concerned that the cooker cannot take the heat directly.
@@ejoftheanvil with large pieces there is no problem. I need it for smaller pieces that are not detected by the detector. But I don't know how to bypass the detector?
I just subscribed - great video - thanks! Did you order the flare nuts from China (i.e. www.lhinduction.com/ ) , or was there an easier way to get them? Please let me know because I would definitely need to make my own coils for brazing.
I actually got them from joyfay.com. But, the easiest answer is www.mettleworks.com/hot/index.html#link-Accessories. (You may have seen in another of my videos that I have their flex "wand" and a flat coil.)
I did similar in that I ordered some extra metric flare nuts and some short sections of metric tubing. Then I just solder this to imperial sized tubing commonly available in the US. I did the adaptors as well also and I think it is worth the extra couple dollars. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Without looking, yes I believe these are the sizes. I got a little tool from home depot which helps. Cant think what's it called but its basically a stepped "awl" that you tap into the tube to expand slightly. So it is not flared with a regular flare tool but something that flares deeper if that makes sense. The tool from HD is actually made for just this purpose. Another tip I have is that you can get some inexpensive fiberglass covering on ebay to slip over your coils which is real nice I think.
Nice video Eric. I recently purchased the same unit and have some supplies to make coils. I'm particularly interested in experimenting with a pancake coil so get away from the "it has to fit inside" problem. I know the pancake is likely to have much less coupling but as long as it gets things up to forging temps I really don't mind somewhat longer heat times. I also expect the pancake will be pretty useful for thin materials and projects (like leaves, etc.) but will probably not be very efficient or even usable much beyond a cm or so.
We're on the same wavelength Eric. I have used the "end of the coil" area for flat/thin material. I was also thinking of the 2 gap 2 using the gap for "diameter limited" pieces. There should be more field concentration in the gap than at the ends of the solenoid. There is nothing that says each of the "2" have to be the same diameter either. I am continually trying to come up with a "one coil fits almost all" design. Maybe a couple different sized solenoids, each with a gap? I have seen designs with two or more parallel solenoids separated by a few inches.It seems that as long as the overall inductance is in range that would work. Again, there may be some inefficiency but I could live with somewhat longer heat times if that's all it took.
Good evening from Greece. Mr Dean Would you or somebody else reading it mind telling me if this mashine is still in market and who sells this kind of mashine?. Thank you very very much Maria
Great videos! Yu've convinced me to buy one.
Have you tried piggybacking a small piece to be forged with a larger piece, like laying a 1/4" sq on a 3/4" square instead of changing the coil?
I have done that to get a chisel edge to temperature for hardening. The edge is too small to get much direct heating and the other bar really evens out the heat. Otherwise, I just switch coils.
hi may have missed it qualified UK blacksmith i never realised you could forge weld in these and make your own coils , always thought they were a gimick for forging but im starting to rethink thanks to your videos , did you mention the price of one of these in any of your videos ? and what are other options for water cooling can you just run water through it from a hose and let it flow out ? we dont have much of a water issue in wales lol thanks
Eric, I've been enjoying your videos and am considering taking the plunge. In this video, you show your winding jig and say that you are going to make a separate video showing how you made the jig. I can't seem to find that video. Can you post a link to it or give a short explanation of how you made it? Thanks and thanks for the great videos!
George, I'll make you a video in the next week or two covering how I make circular cross-section coils and also rectangular cross-section coils.
@@ejoftheanvil Eric, Thanks! If you could also mention your source of supply for the 8mm flair nuts, that would be helpful.
@@georgegalt2079 I use joyfay.com. You have to email them to order flare nuts. I usually get the 8mm stubs pre-flared to go with them.
@@ejoftheanvil Eric, thanks! I'll look into them as a source. I did get an induction unit through eBay that looks identical to yours but made by a different manufacturer. I'm having trouble getting good heat out of it and I am wondering if you have any thoughts. I've made a new coil with an interior diameter of about 1 5/8 inches, but I'm only getting a dull red heat in 1/2 bar stock. What do you think I am doing wrong?
@@GeorgeGalt I have seen that in a defective unit and also in one that went bad after about a year. I strongly suspect you have a defective unit.
Hello Eric. Thanks for the great videos.
I am playing with smaller (almost toy-like) 1000 watt induction heaters, but I am interested in this one.
First a question:
How do you adjust the frequency of your unit? I can't tell from the description or even from the downloaded manual
Now, an answer:
Here's the sleeving that I am using to protect my work coils:
(This is an ebay product description. The vendor is: electricslee
1meter- Manhattan F240-2AWG (6.68mm) 240°C Fiberglass high temperature sleeving
You may have to shop around for sleeving that will go over your 8mm tubing, but this stuff, which fits very easily over my 6mm or 1/4" soft copper tubing, does have some diametrical flexibilty.
Last:
Re- finding tubing that fits---
How hard would it be to simply go inside the machine and convert that tubing to "American" size? Then there would be no fooling around to adapt new coils.
Pete Stanaitis
----------------------
Regarding the sleeving: I also bought some locally, from an electric motor repair guy who used to rewind motors in his shop. The largest stuff he had would barely slide onto the 6mm OD tubing that came with my unit. It seems like it isn't totally fiberglass, as it does turn brown, a bit. I had to go to the stuff I mention above when I went to 1/4" tubing (which, just to be clear) IS 1/4" OD.
We can also provide this device. Please check the
following website.
www.lhinduction.com
htttp://lihuachina.en.alibaba.com
or
whatsapp:+8613539076945
I've found the standard coil shipped with the LH-15A ( 3 turns) is about 1/2 microHenery. And FYI, I'm able to run my "220 volt" unit on a 208 volt circuit ( that is two 120volt circuits 120degrees out of phase in stead of 180 degrees).
Hello, we are a big manufacturer of induction heating machine, we have been in this line for over 10 years. our website is www.lhinduction.com. email: lh-global@lihuachina.com wechat/whatapp: +86 159 7586 0724. Welcome to inquiry me!
Its to bad you do not have a laith. If u could chuck up the winding mandrel. And wind all your turns on it. And i was woundering if you aneal the copper before winding or is too thin of a wall ?
This copper comes annealed. It's not difficult to bend by hand, but it is difficult to keep it from collapsing without something to support it (either inside, like fine sand, or outside like a groove or channel that prevents flattening).
New to this...can you make the coil larger diameter if you wanted to heat a crucible for instance?
Yes. If you need more wraps than the 24" rule of thumb allows, the trick is to use Y adapters to make them parallel instead of series.
I would be very Interested in the math and physics behind it and in more common practices in coil winding. Have you made any progress there? Appropriate literature is hardly available
There is commercial coil simulation software, but it's expensive. Further, the literature is focused on industrial process which has a precise shape in mind rather than an evolving hand-forged shape. That mostly leaves us with general principles and rule-of-thumb to guild a trial-and-error process.
I want to work with 4' .3 wall tubing, suggestions on how long, how many wraps, ect on a coil?
4 inch tubing? With a greater than 4" diameter coil, you can probably do two wraps. I'd try about a 1/2" spacing between them. Two wraps is kinda pushing the envelope, tho.
If you can't do two, you will need to make a coil with a pair of Tee's. That's two wraps in parallel instead of the normal series wrap. (I need to make a video about that...)
Thanks
8:00 Would clamping the took in the vice to bend the tails? I've only done brake line which is far less complicated.
Yes, it probably would have been easier to clamp the tool. I just didn't think of it at the time.
Hey there, can you share more information about the water pump you are using. We cant make ours work as it detect lack of water.
Christian: the induction heater probably requires more pressure than your pump can handle. Look at th-cam.com/video/rNZkxVRb5Ys/w-d-xo.htmlm16s to see what I did (procon pump head). A very small irrigation pump is another option.
Why are some induction machines "Dual", having 2 box components? Is there some advantage to this?
The "ab" units split the coil part out. You could use that to keep most of the unit safer / cleaner. Also, you can switch out coil units so that you can have two different coil lengths. In most cases, the "ab" option isn't really compelling.
How can I purchase this induction heater machine
In the USA, I generally recommend US Solid: ussolid.com/u-s-solid-15-kw-high-frequency-induction-heater-30-80-khz-220v-or-110v.html
The front female/male fittings i could net get for my unit and seller refused to sell me any as said did not exist. Given its 9/16 thread is a pain in the A to get over in Europe so I have to make my own.
Have you tried anything with Magnetic flux concentrators yet
I am Not dealing with Li Hua people, my machine is a HT-15A from HITO Technology. They are essentially the same thing.
Will be making my own Threaded F/M extensions soon enough as thread shavings are showing up.
Commercial made ferrite core or a DIY one?
I have an interest in trying a mouldable resin mix similar to fluxtrol or perhaps a sodium silicate based binder so its baked to a hard ceramic.
9/16-18 UNF is the tap & die I bought. They seem to fit the machine OK.
Any idea why replies are not under the comment I replied to but inline
Is it possible to do this with an induction cooker?
The stand-alone units are pretty low power by blacksmithing standards and they have special detectors to make sure a pot is on them. So, they'd likely balk at heading metal rod. Even if they would turn on the heater, it would be slow because of low power and flat coil.
Now, tearing into one to re-purpose it and add your own coils (with water cooling). Maybe. In my book, more trouble than it's worth. But, once someone had it all figured out we could all copy them :-).
@@ejoftheanvil thanks for the reply👍
@@ejoftheanvil would the detector be bypassed? i need it for smaller pieces. 6cmx6cmx0.5cm. I don't need hardening iron. Just to stretch the iron
@@mihazajc7395 Yes. Doing that bypass would depend on the model of cooker. However, with a big enough piece, I don't think you'd need a bypass. The is also the problem of holding your stock. You might be able to use a thin piece of ceramic or mica insulator and just set it on the cooker. I would be concerned that the cooker cannot take the heat directly.
@@ejoftheanvil with large pieces there is no problem. I need it for smaller pieces that are not detected by the detector. But I don't know how to bypass the detector?
I just subscribed - great video - thanks! Did you order the flare nuts from China (i.e. www.lhinduction.com/ ) , or was there an easier way to get them? Please let me know because I would definitely need to make my own coils for brazing.
I actually got them from joyfay.com. But, the easiest answer is www.mettleworks.com/hot/index.html#link-Accessories. (You may have seen in another of my videos that I have their flex "wand" and a flat coil.)
@@ejoftheanvil Thanks for the quick response! I look forward to more of your videos!
You can help me?
What help do you need?
100th like!