I just want to throw in a couple tips. 1. Push UP on the alignment tool when tightening the pressure plate and continuously make sure it slides easily during the torquing process. 2. If you're engine tilts forward. Use a jack and a block of wood at the front of the engine to tilt the engine back down.
Thank you so much for posting. This video is the absolute best reference there is for this project. I highly recommend this company. I bought my Valair from someone else before I found Thoroughbred Diesel but I will be buying a t shirt just to support them. Also I would like to add a few thing as I just completed the job on my 2015 3500 mega cab. I found it helpful to have all tools ahead of time. For a 2015 you will need 24mm wrench and deep socket for the trans cross member. The front driveshaft is 16mm or 5/8” for the t case flange and a box wrench works just fine. You will also need to remove the DEF tank and crossmember before you can pull the t case. Remember Do Not Pull Trans In With Bolts. Reposition trans jack and try again if you are having trouble. When the input shaft is lined up with the pilot bearing it WILL go in smoothly. Thanks again Thoroughbred Diesel!
Few things I would do different. Buy some zip ties that have the "Christmas tree" push pin end on them. Very useful when you break the push pin type clips on the wiring harnesses. Dropping the down pipe makes removal/install a lot easier. Gets that hanger out of the way Leave the alignment tool in the clutches until you have the nuts/bolts of the pressure plate more than hand tight. Pushing straight in on the tool while tightening the nuts/bolts. After torqueing the pressure plate, make sure that you can slide the tool in and out easily! If you can't, then it will be tough to get the input shaft of the transmission in. Grease the fork where the pivot ball, throw out bearing and slave touch it. For someone that doesn't do this often this will help the most. Take a bellhousing bolt down to the parts store and buy two new bolts that are about inch longer. Cut the heads off of the bolts. Screw in the two headless bolts at the 3 and 9 o'clock position of the bellhousing. This will help with getting the bellhousing, input shaft and dowels aligned perfectly. Google the Mobil Delvac 50 that he recommends. You might not be happy with it.
The best n most helpful video I’ve ever watched. To the point No BS about your vacation you just got back on or the freckle you had lanced off ur butcheek from the Neibors dog that bit you…. It’s hard to find good knowledgeable directly to the point videos so thx I appreciate ya made this job very smooth for me
I have one of those clutches in my old second generation truck . It has a g56 also . It's a 4x4 . I really like the clutch. Nice and smooth . I raised the rpms a bit to help the idle noise . Thank you for the videos .
Thank you so much for making this video. It walked me through my clutch install and left me with absolutely no questions throughout the process. Kudo's to you.
This video has greatly helped me in the last week. I was able to with the use of the brain God gave me, I was able to pull my Transmission and change the clutch and put it all back together as well as change the universal in the driveshaft without any help. The video definitely educated me enough to make sure that I was doing it correctly and of course trying to be safe at the same time. I appreciate this video and the time you took to make it.
Really great video guys! Just did an Sinister EGR delete, Pusher Intake system, 5" exhaust, and Race Me tuner on my 2014 Ram 3500. That poor motor was so choked off by emissions BS! Not looking to "Roll Coal" as I think that gives average folks and the EPA a real good reason to hate us diesel lovers. But also don't believe cramming exhaust and soot into the intake is very good for any motor. You should have seen the grid heater! It looked like a 20 year old charcoal grill that had never been cleaned and this truck has less than 20,000 miles on it! Long story short. The truck has ridiculous power now on the second LOWEST power setting on the tuner. Enough so that the stock clutch can no longer hold on to the motor on moderate to hard acceleration. I will probably be ordering an aftermarket clutch soon and this video has me leaning in your direction. Thanks guys!
Thank you for your kind words and we are glad to hear it was helpful. That is why we do them. :) If you are thinking about a new clutch this video may be helpful as well (see link below). th-cam.com/video/41PPej8U5JU/w-d-xo.html
These guys are the best very very helpful on the phone and there customer support and quality are outstanding i called and ordered a lift pump from them and from now on i am always getting my stuff from them i give the a 10 out of 10
Fyi I have done a clutch on a 16 without pulling the transfer case. We didn’t pull the unit all the way we just scooted it back just far enough to replace the clutch then scooted the whole thing back in.
Great Video, helped a ton with my install! now I'm noticing it's hard to drop in to 1st, 2nd, and reverse from a complete stop. Any tips on what this could be? Is there any adjustment I can do to make it drop into gear easier at a stop?
Thanks. Did you replace the hydro when you did the install? If not, I would start with hydro. Some trucks when you do a dual disk install its hard to get into 1st gear, to help with that, I always go to a gear that I know it will fall into, then come back to the gear that I want. It stops the rotation and makes it fall into gear.
Have any of the aftermarket clutch companies made a single mass flywheel that bolts onto the stock "flex plate"? It would make installation a lot easier.
Great video. I didn't see you fill the grease slot on the inner bore of the throw out bearing with grease. Are the Valair supplied throw outs pre filled?
Just installed a Valair clutch. Supplied release bearing inner slot was not pre-packed with grease. Highly recommend otherwise with time rust and friction on guide tube causing extreme pedal pressure.
Great video! I’m about to install this clutch in my G56 and this was awesome to watch before I tackle it. Is there much difference in the disassembly on a truck that has a shifter transfer case?
any reason to remove the transfer case other than to make handling the trans easier? i want to try to do it without removing it. that being said, is there a gasket or anything to seal the transfer case to the trans?
That shifter should come right out. If you are having a problem getting it out you can give us a call and we can talk through it, once we figure it out we can post the resolution on here.
I’ve only heard one duel disco clutch and I would not want that in my truck and a guy I know has one and it’s so dam loud it rattled like crazy I could not stand that sound at all and I don’t know what brand it was a south bend or a valair don’t know and that’s been couple years ago so they might have got the quieter now I don’t know my 05 3500 still has the factory clutch and still doing fine and pure stock power and factory size tires .
Dude, you did this the hard way, should have remove that inspection plate and unbolted the dual mass and taken the hole thing out with the transmission. Installation is super easy if you assemble the clutch on the table and slip it over input what and reinstall, easy, did mine by myself on the floor I don't have a car lift.
have you guys installed any southbend clutches on 4th gen rams that have the factory auxiliary switches? the fuse box for them is right where the instructions say to mount the new hyd. reservoir and leaves basically no room to mount the thing.
great video. Step by step. As an aside, I gotta laugh at torque specs sometimes. For example, who came up with the ubiquitous 89 inch lbs. And, in this case, why not just an even 100 lb/ft LOL.
Does the clutch make noise when the pedal is pressed or when you are in neutral pedal released? He says clutch pedal released and in neutral makes noise, but I just installed mine this weekend and all the noise comes when I push the clutch pedal in. Now I’m worried the throw out bearing is bad.
You mention adding an extra quart above the fill hole on the transmission. Where do you add the oil? If the oil already is at the fill hole, is there another hole to add oil? Or do you remove the shifter and add it there?
About to drop the trans tomorrow to install a southbend. I was leaning towards bringing the trans/t-case out together as one. Any thoughts from anyone that has done it?
I got a 17 ram G56 i do hotshot car hauling and haul about 20-25k pounds. Already had some parts replaced like the 5th and 6th gear synchronizer. Was wondering if you knew any places that sell beefed up g56 cases and heavy duty gears? Ive seen some on google thers several companies that sell them just not sure which 1 to go with. Was wondering if you knew a a good place that sells them? If you or anyone could help me out that would awesome!
Does that upgrade hydraulics makes it softer pedal or what? I already ordered braided hose and metal cylinders kit. Is that be ok to use with that clutch?
The upgraded hydraulics really don’t affect the pedal feel, that’s more of a aspect of the pressure plate clamp load. If you are using upgraded hydraulics just make sure that your slave and master have the correct specs.
hi guys i have a 2013 ram 2500 with the 6.7 l cummins and i want to know if you have to remove the transfer case to get it out i have that clutch kit in my truck but my throw out bearing exploded now im tearing it back apart my question to you is can you use a stock bearing from the store or is yours a better bearing in the kit or a stronger bearing im a second owner of this truck and this was put in over 5000 miles ago by the first owner and im wondering what he did wrong to this bearing i drive it to work everyday not towing heavy just a daily driver now can you help me figure it out and maybe ill buy my next kit from you guys
To get the trans out you don’t have to remove the transfer case (TC), but I find that the install is a lot easier without the weight of the TC there. The throwout bearing that’s included in all of our kits is heavy duty but it’s the same size as the stock throwout bearing. If you buy one from a parts store, just make sure what you purchase is of good quality.
Ugh! That dual mass flywheel even sounds junky & clunky when you just put it on the ground! What nonsense.😑 I've a 2018 Ram 3500 G56 Tradesman 4x4 with about 9k miles and have every intention of replacing the factory dual mass with a quality single mass, single disc clutch.😃 Nice video! 👌
watched another video on this, and guy did ue a lube on the input shaft....?.... Where here he wipes it clean...?... has one thinking, is it a coin toss ?
+Alejandro Nunez Yes, Valair makes a Spring hub dual disk billet flywheel dual disk clutch that will hold 650HP, the also have a smoother engaging organic face dual disk clutch that will hold up to 550HP. I would suggest the 650HP clutch, it is $1,395.00. Give us a call at 866 737 4966 and we would be glad to get you one!
+Alejandro Nunez Both of the clutches will make more noise than a single disk, but it is bearable. This is a necessary evil to hold the amount of horsepower you have.
I also have a question I have an nv4500 with the dual disk valair organic clutch. has maybe 35 miles on it. When I start releasing the clutch and it finally grabs a little bit. it is shuddering way bad. is this normal until I break it in?
I just had a southbend dual disc clutch installed into my nv4500 transmission. Before it was very smooth an easy to shift, but now you have to muscle it into every gear and the clutch pedal is also much harder to press. A larger input shaft was also installed and many people on cummins forum are saying its shifting hard because there was no graphite put onto the input shaft. Is this the case? Southbend says no lubrication of any kind, but Valair says its a good idea. Thoughts?
I can’t make that recommendation. We suggest you use you mfg recommended fluid or something comparable. May want to reach out to the Tcase MFG and see if that would be a suitable fluid.
Just finished replacing a valair triple disk with the valair dual disk in my G56 and now the starter will not engage the flywheel. What am I missing?? Thanks in advance.
Hey, so I bought a 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 recently with a valair dual clutch and when I take off uts kinda jumpy/aggressive when barely taking off is that normal?
Thoroughbred Diesel yes I have traction bars in front and back, and another thing sometimes when taking off it squeals at the beginning (3 seconds) does that mean maybe clutch going out
just finished this clutch on a 2012 and when I press the clutch pedal nothing happens. the engine rpms shift. but there's no sound to show the clutch is disengaging. I tried putting it in reverse and it seemed to go which makes no sense of how that would be possible. it didn't do anything when it seemed to be in reverse and I let go of clutch pedal. I'm lost on what the problem can be.
Is the truck trying to pull itself when you put it into gear? What happens when you put the truck in gear and release the clutch? More info needed. You are welcome to give us a call so that we can help you tech. 866 737 4966
Thoroughbred Diesel thankyou for the response. after pulling a bunch of shit I ended up figuring out the clutch was too high up. I adjusted it so that it's lower and it's driving now. it doesn't seem to catch right so I think I have to fine tune it. it begins to catch about 3 inches from bottom but doesn't fully let go until pretty much at the top. it's quite when pressed. some chatter when not pressed. I'm guessing I just need to keep adjusting until I find the sweet spot?
Thoroughbred Diesel it is pretty far down right now below the brake pedal. there is maybe an inch and a half to two inches where it's actually grabbing. the first little bit it's just barely moving the truck. is that just have to break in? it almost feels like two stages of the clutch pedal
When you pedal is at rest, it should be slightly higher than the break (1/2 inch). As far as engagement, sounds about correct, but you shouldn’t be slipping it that way, once the clutch begins to grab go ahead and let out and go.
Thoroughbred Diesel when it starts to move it's not actually engaging until almost at the top. when it does start to hit at the top the release feels right. decently grabby, but I thought it was bad if it let out all at the top of the pedal.
I have a dual disc Valair in my g56 and it won't totally disengage. I've had it torn apart and everyone tells me it's normal but I don't feel that possible. Can you help?
What do you mean by “won't disengage”? Are you saying that with the trucks clutch pushed in that the truck still tries to pull itself? If you are talking about the noise when the clutch is pushed in, then yes, it is normal.
Thoroughbred Diesel not talking about noise. bare with me... facing up a steep hill makes putting the truck in first quite difficult. facing steeply downhill will allow it to disengage ( stick clicks into first effortlessly). now, to prove my point, on fflat level ground, I'll put the truck in first and pull it right bask out of gear but only far enough that I don't go past the synchronizers, then, push gently forward and the gears grind. this cannot be duplicated if the truck is on a steep downgrade.
Great video guys, couldn't have explained it better myself!
+Cummins life Thank you!
I just want to throw in a couple tips.
1. Push UP on the alignment tool when tightening the pressure plate and continuously make sure it slides easily during the torquing process.
2. If you're engine tilts forward. Use a jack and a block of wood at the front of the engine to tilt the engine back down.
Thank you so much for posting. This video is the absolute best reference there is for this project. I highly recommend this company. I bought my Valair from someone else before I found Thoroughbred Diesel but I will be buying a t shirt just to support them. Also I would like to add a few thing as I just completed the job on my 2015 3500 mega cab. I found it helpful to have all tools ahead of time. For a 2015 you will need 24mm wrench and deep socket for the trans cross member. The front driveshaft is 16mm or 5/8” for the t case flange and a box wrench works just fine. You will also need to remove the DEF tank and crossmember before you can pull the t case. Remember Do Not Pull Trans In With Bolts. Reposition trans jack and try again if you are having trouble. When the input shaft is lined up with the pilot bearing it WILL go in smoothly.
Thanks again Thoroughbred Diesel!
Few things I would do different.
Buy some zip ties that have the "Christmas tree" push pin end on them. Very useful when you break the push pin type clips on the wiring harnesses.
Dropping the down pipe makes removal/install a lot easier. Gets that hanger out of the way
Leave the alignment tool in the clutches until you have the nuts/bolts of the pressure plate more than hand tight. Pushing straight in on the tool while tightening the nuts/bolts. After torqueing the pressure plate, make sure that you can slide the tool in and out easily! If you can't, then it will be tough to get the input shaft of the transmission in.
Grease the fork where the pivot ball, throw out bearing and slave touch it.
For someone that doesn't do this often this will help the most. Take a bellhousing bolt down to the parts store and buy two new bolts that are about inch longer. Cut the heads off of the bolts. Screw in the two headless bolts at the 3 and 9 o'clock position of the bellhousing. This will help with getting the bellhousing, input shaft and dowels aligned perfectly.
Google the Mobil Delvac 50 that he recommends. You might not be happy with it.
Making those pins is the best way to get the transmission lined up.
That's such a good idea! Never would have thought of that.
The best n most helpful video I’ve ever watched. To the point No BS about your vacation you just got back on or the freckle you had lanced off ur butcheek from the Neibors dog that bit you…. It’s hard to find good knowledgeable directly to the point videos so thx I appreciate ya made this job very smooth for me
Glad it was helpful!
I have one of those clutches in my old second generation truck . It has a g56 also . It's a 4x4 . I really like the clutch. Nice and smooth . I raised the rpms a bit to help the idle noise . Thank you for the videos .
You're welcome!
Thank you so much for making this video. It walked me through my clutch install and left me with absolutely no questions throughout the process. Kudo's to you.
Awesome! Glad to hear it helped you out.
This video has greatly helped me in the last week. I was able to with the use of the brain God gave me, I was able to pull my Transmission and change the clutch and put it all back together as well as change the universal in the driveshaft without any help. The video definitely educated me enough to make sure that I was doing it correctly and of course trying to be safe at the same time. I appreciate this video and the time you took to make it.
Comments like this are why we continue to make videos!
You guys did a hell of a job! Few Mechanics are that thorough
When I do have to put a clutch in my truck, I will be ordering it from you because of this video. Thanks
Thanks! Happy to help. 😁
Really great video guys! Just did an Sinister EGR delete, Pusher Intake system, 5" exhaust, and Race Me tuner on my 2014 Ram 3500. That poor motor was so choked off by emissions BS! Not looking to "Roll Coal" as I think that gives average folks and the EPA a real good reason to hate us diesel lovers. But also don't believe cramming exhaust and soot into the intake is very good for any motor. You should have seen the grid heater! It looked like a 20 year old charcoal grill that had never been cleaned and this truck has less than 20,000 miles on it! Long story short. The truck has ridiculous power now on the second LOWEST power setting on the tuner. Enough so that the stock clutch can no longer hold on to the motor on moderate to hard acceleration. I will probably be ordering an aftermarket clutch soon and this video has me leaning in your direction. Thanks guys!
Thank you for your kind words and we are glad to hear it was helpful. That is why we do them. :) If you are thinking about a new clutch this video may be helpful as well (see link below).
th-cam.com/video/41PPej8U5JU/w-d-xo.html
These guys are the best very very helpful on the phone and there customer support and quality are outstanding i called and ordered a lift pump from them and from now on i am always getting my stuff from them i give the a 10 out of 10
+countrymankdx200 Thank you. We really appreciate your kind and supportive comment.
These gentlemen are top notch!
Thank you!
totally new respect for this clutch setup!!! Great work as usual TBD!
Thank You for the fantastic video. It was very thorough and you gentlemen are very knowledgeable. I will be installing a Valair QG56DDSN this weekend.
Thank you and good luck!
Just noticed this video. I'm trying to learn about cummims diesels and this particular transmission. Excellent vid!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video!! Thanks for taking the time to help us out.
Fyi I have done a clutch on a 16 without pulling the transfer case. We didn’t pull the unit all the way we just scooted it back just far enough to replace the clutch then scooted the whole thing back in.
These guys are great. Thankfully they are local to me so I can let them do the heavy lifting!
Thx! We are at:
4843 Rockwell Rd.
Winchester, KY 40391
Great Video, helped a ton with my install! now I'm noticing it's hard to drop in to 1st, 2nd, and reverse from a complete stop. Any tips on what this could be? Is there any adjustment I can do to make it drop into gear easier at a stop?
Thanks. Did you replace the hydro when you did the install? If not, I would start with hydro. Some trucks when you do a dual disk install its hard to get into 1st gear, to help with that, I always go to a gear that I know it will fall into, then come back to the gear that I want. It stops the rotation and makes it fall into gear.
Awesome! Very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Even tho i got a single disk vid helped alot just got my clutch yesterday 9/7/18 got it in 9/8/18 orderd from you guys to. Thanks
Thanks!
Big thanks from Frankfort Ky
Awesome video! I really appreciate the effort that went into this.
Amazing video/info guys!
You guys don’t happen to know the exact bolt size for bell housing?
Thanks! I think, M16-1.5 and probably 2 “ inches long?
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
I didn't see where you supported the engine itself. Isn't this necessary to avoid too much pressure on the motor mounts?
Have any of the aftermarket clutch companies made a single mass flywheel that bolts onto the stock "flex plate"? It would make installation a lot easier.
Appreciate your time in educating us on this! Im about to have to do one on my dads 08 which is the same set up. Thanks again!
Great video. I didn't see you fill the grease slot on the inner bore of the throw out bearing with grease. Are the Valair supplied throw outs pre filled?
Yes, the bearing is a sealed, no serviceable bearing.
+Thoroughbred Diesel I Meant the fill slot on the inside of the slide bore. Did you grease?
Just installed a Valair clutch. Supplied release bearing inner slot was not pre-packed with grease. Highly recommend otherwise with time rust and friction on guide tube causing extreme pedal pressure.
Great video! I’m about to install this clutch in my G56 and this was awesome to watch before I tackle it. Is there much difference in the disassembly on a truck that has a shifter transfer case?
Thank you! Should be the same. On the inside, I believe there is one more bolt under the 4wd shifter to loosen up the shifter cover.
any reason to remove the transfer case other than to make handling the trans easier? i want to try to do it without removing it. that being said, is there a gasket or anything to seal the transfer case to the trans?
i'm having trouble taking out the shifter i think it's cus of the alignment dowels, any tips you guys can give me? you made it look so easy haha
That shifter should come right out. If you are having a problem getting it out you can give us a call and we can talk through it, once we figure it out we can post the resolution on here.
I’ve only heard one duel disco clutch and I would not want that in my truck and a guy I know has one and it’s so dam loud it rattled like crazy I could not stand that sound at all and I don’t know what brand it was a south bend or a valair don’t know and that’s been couple years ago so they might have got the quieter now I don’t know my 05 3500 still has the factory clutch and still doing fine and pure stock power and factory size tires .
Better Quality video is the only complaint
This is one of our older videos from over 5 years ago. Our video quality is much better now.
Is there a sound comparison out there with Valair's quiet model?
Dude, you did this the hard way, should have remove that inspection plate and unbolted the dual mass and taken the hole thing out with the transmission. Installation is super easy if you assemble the clutch on the table and slip it over input what and reinstall, easy, did mine by myself on the floor I don't have a car lift.
If you upgrade your clutch like in this video, your method isnt possible.
Will a 2006 5.9 with G-56 Have the back pressure lines mentioned?
No, only the 6.7’s.
awesome video
what are the TQ specs for the crossmember, bellhousing bolts to enging? Drive shaft flange bolts? No one has them listed where i can find.
have you guys installed any southbend clutches on 4th gen rams that have the factory auxiliary switches? the fuse box for them is right where the instructions say to mount the new hyd. reservoir and leaves basically no room to mount the thing.
Who the hell goes from a gasser to a coal roller and dosent want noise? Thats half the fun of owning a diesel
great video. Step by step. As an aside, I gotta laugh at torque specs sometimes. For example, who came up with the ubiquitous 89 inch lbs. And, in this case, why not just an even 100 lb/ft LOL.
Does the clutch make noise when the pedal is pressed or when you are in neutral pedal released?
He says clutch pedal released and in neutral makes noise, but I just installed mine this weekend and all the noise comes when I push the clutch pedal in. Now I’m worried the throw out bearing is bad.
Was this there “quiet version”?
You mention adding an extra quart above the fill hole on the transmission. Where do you add the oil? If the oil already is at the fill hole, is there another hole to add oil? Or do you remove the shifter and add it there?
Last quart goes in through shift tower.
About to drop the trans tomorrow to install a southbend. I was leaning towards bringing the trans/t-case out together as one. Any thoughts from anyone that has done it?
It can be done both ways. We find it easier to remove Tcase.
I got a 17 ram G56 i do hotshot car hauling and haul about 20-25k pounds. Already had some parts replaced like the 5th and 6th gear synchronizer. Was wondering if you knew any places that sell beefed up g56 cases and heavy duty gears? Ive seen some on google thers several companies that sell them just not sure which 1 to go with. Was wondering if you knew a a good place that sells them? If you or anyone could help me out that would awesome!
great video! how many hours would you say this job should take for an experienced mechanic with a helping hand
First timers, even experienced mechanic, probably right at about 6 hours total.
Does that upgrade hydraulics makes it softer pedal or what? I already ordered braided hose and metal cylinders kit. Is that be ok to use with that clutch?
The upgraded hydraulics really don’t affect the pedal feel, that’s more of a aspect of the pressure plate clamp load. If you are using upgraded hydraulics just make sure that your slave and master have the correct specs.
@@thoroughbreddiesel do you know about any vacuum assist clutch pedal add on for the ram?
I haven’t heard of anything like a vacuum assist for the light duty RAM’s.
hi guys i have a 2013 ram 2500 with the 6.7 l cummins and i want to know if you have to remove the transfer case to get it out i have that clutch kit in my truck but my throw out bearing exploded now im tearing it back apart my question to you is can you use a stock bearing from the store or is yours a better bearing in the kit or a stronger bearing im a second owner of this truck and this was put in over 5000 miles ago by the first owner and im wondering what he did wrong to this bearing i drive it to work everyday not towing heavy just a daily driver now can you help me figure it out and maybe ill buy my next kit from you guys
To get the trans out you don’t have to remove the transfer case (TC), but I find that the install is a lot easier without the weight of the TC there. The throwout bearing that’s included in all of our kits is heavy duty but it’s the same size as the stock throwout bearing. If you buy one from a parts store, just make sure what you purchase is of good quality.
Ugh! That dual mass flywheel even sounds junky & clunky when you just put it on the ground! What nonsense.😑 I've a 2018 Ram 3500 G56 Tradesman 4x4 with about 9k miles and have every intention of replacing the factory dual mass with a quality single mass, single disc clutch.😃 Nice video! 👌
Thanks!
watched another video on this, and guy did ue a lube on the input shaft....?.... Where here he wipes it clean...?... has one thinking, is it a coin toss ?
How much money would something like this cost in a f350 6.4 manual, to hold those 210hp-300hp tunes
+Alejandro Nunez Yes, Valair makes a Spring hub dual disk billet flywheel dual disk clutch that will hold 650HP, the also have a smoother engaging organic face dual disk clutch that will hold up to 550HP. I would suggest the 650HP clutch, it is $1,395.00. Give us a call at 866 737 4966 and we would be glad to get you one!
+Thoroughbred Diesel which one make the less noise when the clutch is off on neutral
+Alejandro Nunez Both of the clutches will make more noise than a single disk, but it is bearable. This is a necessary evil to hold the amount of horsepower you have.
I also have a question I have an nv4500 with the dual disk valair organic clutch. has maybe 35 miles on it. When I start releasing the clutch and it finally grabs a little bit. it is shuddering way bad. is this normal until I break it in?
the only problem with this video, is that instead of using Loctite on the flywheel bolts you should be using a slight film of motor oil.
so if you gotta change the rear main seal do you just knock it in or do you have to use a rear main seal installer?
On the Cummins, you can remove the rear housing and just bolt up a new rear main assembly. Give us a call and we can walk you through it.
This whole video, all I wanted the main guy to say was "10-4, Rubber Ducky!"
lol
Hey do you guys have a video on a 5.9 dodge truck of replacing the clutch of g56
The process will be pretty much the same. A couple differences on the interior but nothing major.
+Thoroughbred Diesel thank you
I just had a southbend dual disc clutch installed into my nv4500 transmission. Before it was very smooth an easy to shift, but now you have to muscle it into every gear and the clutch pedal is also much harder to press. A larger input shaft was also installed and many people on cummins forum are saying its shifting hard because there was no graphite put onto the input shaft. Is this the case? Southbend says no lubrication of any kind, but Valair says its a good idea. Thoughts?
Crickets😂
question, is it okay to put Mobil delvac 50 transfer case ? I changed my G56 fluid to delvac and I have 3 quarts left.
I can’t make that recommendation. We suggest you use you mfg recommended fluid or something comparable. May want to reach out to the Tcase MFG and see if that would be a suitable fluid.
Just finished replacing a valair triple disk with the valair dual disk in my G56 and now the starter will not engage the flywheel. What am I missing?? Thanks in advance.
Did you remove the crank spacer from the original flywheel?
is the g56 trans have an 11in or 13in clutch? I have a ram 3500 with the 6 speed
13”
Why does it do that noise
What do you guys charge to put a dual disc like this in?
Jason Davenport your a phony
Hey, so I bought a 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 recently with a valair dual clutch and when I take off uts kinda jumpy/aggressive when barely taking off is that normal?
A correction for that is usually traction bars..
Thoroughbred Diesel yes I have traction bars in front and back, and another thing sometimes when taking off it squeals at the beginning (3 seconds) does that mean maybe clutch going out
2 man job
just finished this clutch on a 2012 and when I press the clutch pedal nothing happens. the engine rpms shift. but there's no sound to show the clutch is disengaging. I tried putting it in reverse and it seemed to go which makes no sense of how that would be possible. it didn't do anything when it seemed to be in reverse and I let go of clutch pedal. I'm lost on what the problem can be.
Is the truck trying to pull itself when you put it into gear? What happens when you put the truck in gear and release the clutch? More info needed. You are welcome to give us a call so that we can help you tech. 866 737 4966
Thoroughbred Diesel thankyou for the response. after pulling a bunch of shit I ended up figuring out the clutch was too high up. I adjusted it so that it's lower and it's driving now. it doesn't seem to catch right so I think I have to fine tune it. it begins to catch about 3 inches from bottom but doesn't fully let go until pretty much at the top. it's quite when pressed. some chatter when not pressed. I'm guessing I just need to keep adjusting until I find the sweet spot?
Thoroughbred Diesel it is pretty far down right now below the brake pedal. there is maybe an inch and a half to two inches where it's actually grabbing. the first little bit it's just barely moving the truck. is that just have to break in? it almost feels like two stages of the clutch pedal
When you pedal is at rest, it should be slightly higher than the break (1/2 inch). As far as engagement, sounds about correct, but you shouldn’t be slipping it that way, once the clutch begins to grab go ahead and let out and go.
Thoroughbred Diesel when it starts to move it's not actually engaging until almost at the top. when it does start to hit at the top the release feels right. decently grabby, but I thought it was bad if it let out all at the top of the pedal.
I have a dual disc Valair in my g56 and it won't totally disengage. I've had it torn apart and everyone tells me it's normal but I don't feel that possible. Can you help?
What do you mean by “won't disengage”? Are you saying that with the trucks clutch pushed in that the truck still tries to pull itself? If you are talking about the noise when the clutch is pushed in, then yes, it is normal.
Thoroughbred Diesel not talking about noise. bare with me... facing up a steep hill makes putting the truck in first quite difficult. facing steeply downhill will allow it to disengage ( stick clicks into first effortlessly). now, to prove my point, on fflat level ground, I'll put the truck in first and pull it right bask out of gear but only far enough that I don't go past the synchronizers, then, push gently forward and the gears grind. this cannot be duplicated if the truck is on a steep downgrade.
I dont know why my phone threw "thoroughbred diesel" in there first...
it also cannot be duplicated in other cars and trucks...
Will the truck go into 2nd, uphill, easily? If so, if you put it in second and then go to 1st will it go easier?
why you gotta take that washer off from the back of that pivot ball
If you do not remove the washer it will not give the throwout bearing the proper clearance since the clutch “stack” is now taller.
Thanks for the info...you guys are awesome
its a diaphragm pressure plate not a finger style.
Volume is the worst
It's a really old video. Our technology has improved.
😂this was filmed on a freaking potatoe
Our videos are much better now. Upgraded to a baked potato.