FYI - Ben lives in the future when he can send the smell over the internet via voice commands, but your dumb device in 21st century can't receive it. I actually smelled poorly-refined unburned mineral fuel. Duh!
That was a dirty trick, when you held the spark plug up, and asked if we can smell it!!! I actually sniffed!!! I am glad my wife didn't see. I am glad it was a simple fix but I am going to watch for a wile before I start grabbing coil packs.
@6:09 tearing the entire intake off is NOT an easy fix Ben. I don't think the $300 for the coil packs plus the possible headaches they bring is worth the minimal benefits.
Meh.......taking off the intake on the 3.6 isn’t a big deal. Takes about 20 minutes. With that said, I wouldn’t have bothered with the upgraded coil packs. They deliver electricity for spark. Either there is enough electricity for spark or not. More fuel & air make HP
Do it once and it's not scary or a big deal. This has to come of for multiple repair items and dave's you a fortune with minimal effort. Give it a try.
Value for money... this is not a good upgrade imo. Unless you have significant performance mods to support them... i.e. a full built engine, not a stock one
The oil weeping is coming from the Variable Valve Lift Solenoid seal. It’s a common issue. Replacing the seal doesn’t always fix it either. Sometimes a whole valve cover replacement is required.
Man today’s engines aren’t like they used the be. So simple to work on 70-80s engines almost anyone could soup up an engine. Now days they are like apple computers...no user modifications. So much electronics computers etc it’s almost detrimental to try and soup up a modern engine. Glad you found out the problem. Let us know if another coil pack goes out so we can avoid
Everyone saying warranty is 36k but power train is 5 years 60k miles. I wouldn’t bother touching the motor before the 60k and honestly for the minimal bolt ons why even bother on a brand new motor.
That thing that has oil around it on the valve cover, is the variable valve lift solenoid. As far as you misfire goes the first thing we do as Chrysler techs is remove the at fault cylinders coil and inspect it for burns or pin holes. Then after that we will try and replace with a know good part or swap the coil to the left bank (so that if it's the coil, then we don't have to remove the intake). Edit: the cam shaft sensor and the VVL solenoid just have oil around them. Believe it's because of the pressure from the crank causing oil to blow past
@Christian Emter oil catch can won't really help much aside from keeping the intake clean and potentially some other benefits. I wouldn't worry about it to much unless it got the the point where it's dripping oil down the side of the block like some poorly sealed cam shaft position sensors will.
Thanks for the video. I’m definitely wrenching on my JT and JK. Dealers or shops are super expensive. Videos like yours, make me feel more comfortable working on my own rigs. I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Thanks again.
Had a friend have a Dealership try and deny Warranty on a Trans Issue because they claimed the Oversized Tires were the cause... He got it Warrantied, but had to fight for it... Always depends on who’s behind the Counter at the Dealership 😡👍
This engine has its own issues that never got fixed over the years. Cam/rocker being the bigger common problem. If you own one your should get familiar with taking that intake off to troubleshoot simple items. It's not hard and it's educational. Explore your rig and dont be scared to mod within reason. Jeep did an alright job but there is room for improvement. Remember they engineer for price, parts, stability then improvement last.
I have these installed now. I just got home from flying out, and on my drive home I got a p0305. Thankfully I was a mile away from my house. I just got done putting the old one in place of the bad pack and no more misfire. I had the updated coil pack as well. Looks like Im going back to the og packs when it gets nice enough to work on my jeep outside.
The grime/oil in front of the number 2 coil pack is an oil leak from the front VVT solenoid seals. I have 100k miles and both of my front ones are leaking. There are also ones in the back. The only way to replace the seals is take off the valve covers. Mine will have to wait. Just did the oil cooler and plugs.
I've run the Ripp Coil and plug wires on my 3.8 for over 20,000 miles with no issue, just my experience with them. I've been happy with the performance of their product.
Love the Gladiator, but I'd leave it alone and focus on that badass JK. The Pentastar performs great as-is. Maintain it well and it'll serve well longer than you'll probably want to keep it. Let's see you get that V8 into the JK! I always enjoy your videos! Thank you for making them and giving us a little getaway during these rotten Covid times!
Aftermarket coils on a stock engine is a waste of time money and reliability. Good thing you didn't bring it to the dealer they would have handed you a very nice bill. FYI you don't feel any driving difference with the coils on a stock engine. Its in your head.
I had a number 2 misfire on my JK went through the whole ordeal of changing my coilpacks and did the plugs as well since I had it all apart already. It didn't fix it and pulled the intake off again and started looking at the actual electrical connectors to the coil packs. The number 2 had a lot of oil in it. Sprayed it with some contact cleaner and it all cleared up.
My Gladiator has 105K miles and now is misfiring. I had the coils and plugs replaced and it did not fix it and the shop can not figure it out. I have no mods to the engine. However thanks for the video.
In my opinion, I think it’s best to do performance upgrades after the warranty runs out, or at least don’t change anything that isn’t a quick change back to stock.
Hi Ben, The Ripp coil packs are known to be bad. The Pentastar V6 performance group has this documented well for several months now. They also have done a dyno shootout of the various coil packs and there is no real gain either.
Best Jeep video on TH-cam hands down! He go’s over installing and review’s of parts like they should be not 10 min after there installed but after running them for a wile. Great work my man.
Thanks for update and info on Rip pack. I have the JK kit over 6000 plus miles and now have my stock on hand with me in jeep. Hope you are up and running for a long time now. One off bad pack. Great video Ben
If I’m not mistaken, that sensor is the camshaft sensor which does help advance the timing. But as far as the VVT, has a lot to do with the cam phasers which is controlled by oil pressure.
Timing on this is amazing, my light just came on, sounds exactly like yours and has the same code.... only problem is I didn’t put new coil packs on...
Ben, never listen to the hate. While I personally don't care for the JT, it doesn't stop me from enjoying your content. Keep doing what you are doing and get paid. I appreciate what you've been doing with the channel.
Glad you got that figured out this now the 3rd coil pack ive heard of going bad from RIPP i personally havent had the issue im about 10-15k into my coil packs with the longest drive ive done with them was 3.5 hours towing 2klbs not sure if i got lucky or if its coming down the pipeline for me as well
Makes me second guess myself about getting their superchargers. Ripp wouldn't even take the failed coil packs for further testing so to improve the reliability.
There's a satisfaction that comes with doing the work yourself and the knowledge on the quality of the work. With TH-cam videos like yours available, how could you go wrong. I've always believed that once you "Modify it", the warranty is void, as printed in the tiny print. So if you are planning modifications, be careful not to purchase a warranty that will conflict with your plans.
I just ran into this and found that it was due to watered down gas. When we are currently paying $5 a gallon for gas it makes it even worse to find out that the fuel is being tainted with water. Just thought I would add to the possible causes for this P0300 issue.
Driving a cylinder dumping fuel for any period of time on a highway WILL blow your cats. Been there done that. In my case the ECU was broken. Had to replace cats after 1 hour highway driving.
Of course it's not easy to tear into for the coil change. New vehicles are all the same so you take it in to have the dealer to repair. Video gives you what your into doing mods. Really looked not too bad. Great job!
I put the 3.8 Ripp coil pack on my JK and it died within a month. I got stranded on the side of the road on the way home from work at 3am. I removed it and just put a stock one back and haven't had a single issue since. It was not worth the $200 to me to have the possibility of being stuck on the side of the road.
That 3.6 Pentastar is pretty highly tuned. They make a lot of power for a V-6. The one thing I don’t mess with, the motor. It’s as good as they can make it
I had dealt with a similar issue regarding my 17 JKU, so long story short, my Transmission went at 40k now this is a jeep that was lifted on 35s regeared to 4.56 with an air locker in the rear. sadly this jeep has lived on the pavement for basically its entire existence. I still had my 3 year 100k powertrain warranty and I had to fight 3 different dealers and Jeep themselves to get my Transmission fixed. It took well over 6 months for my jeep to get back on the road after fighting tooth and nail to get my warranty because this was not my fault.
seemed odd the pack was separated from the rubber piece when removed. I switched to the rip coil packs myself when I did my spark plugs at 85000 miles. About 5000 miles on them now with no issues but now I’m hoping I seated those rubber pieces well enough. LOL. All that work was done after I took it into the dealer and paid about $1700 to have the upper and lower cams and 12 rockers and lifters replaced on one side of the engine. The old pentastar tick..
If you keep running them make sure your tool pouch has a 1/4 wratchet, extension, 8,10 mm socket, fkathead screw driver, 8, 10 mm box wrench, extra mopar coil pack and a real good flaslight and golf umbrella because it will fail at 2 am in a rain storm. Save your time and money...go back to stock. Peace.
Glad the fix was an easy one, also glad to hear Ripp sent a new part(good business on their part). I like the overhead storage you've got on the single garage door side.👍
What good does it do to replace that faulty part with an equally faulty part though? If the problem is that the design is bad to begin with they can continue sending you new ones forever and you’ll keep having the same problem.
I had the 2011 Black ops call of duty Rubicon and I put the 5.7L Hemi and loved it but gas mileage went from bad to terrible so I sold it and bought the new JLUR and now I want to put a hemi in it and my wife said he’ll no but I’m kind of leaning that way. I want more power and would t mind a super charger but I hear nothing but problems with them and don’t want problems want a OEM feel and swap.
It’s hard to beat the stock coil packs. It’s just one of those parts that you can’t gain much with and you risk issues like these. I feel the same about CAI also. Though at least those sound cool when you hammer down on the throttle.
I figured that was what it was as soon as you posted the codes and mentioned the RIPP coil packs. Just not worth the slight gain for the headache it caused.
There's no reason to upgrade from the factory coils until you are making at least double the original horsepower. The OE ignition parts are seriously powerful and extremely reliable.
I did the same to my 16' JKU. Got the Cylinder 2 misfire code, rough idle etc. etc. Ended up putting the RIPP Supercharger Coil Packs with some NGK Iridium spark plugs and the problem went away!
I hate to sound negative but I have to say that with all the problems RIPP has had with their superchargers and tunes I would have trouble buying anything with their name on it. Bummer than the one that failed was on the most labor intensive side of the engine.
It's plenty for towing as long as you don't mind the thing constantly revving to the moon. We tow 6k pounds with ours a few times a year. Max Tow Gladiator.
It’s a cam position sensor. They seep oil. I took mine in and jeep refused to fix. Said it’s not dropping so not a leak. Had the same oil. Tons of oil residue on the underside of the engine block. Curious if you’re is the same. On trails with the windows down, the smell of oil was horrible.
Had same issue with these coil packs , just went OEM and no issues whatsoever, like someone else stated the amount of work for the reward isn't worth it
This was an extremely obvious problem from the start and was shocked when you said you don't think it could be your brand new Ripp coil packs. To work on cars as much as you do and that not be the immediate answer is scary!!!
Put the coil that you took off on an easier to access cylinder, see if the misfire follows it. Lifters are a common issue that will cause a misfire as well
I just spent yesterday afternoon ripping these RIPP coils out of my jeep. 3rd coil failed 200 miles from home on the road at midnight the day after your Gladiator had the same issue. Biggest waste of 300 bucks I can think of. I think they fire too hot and burn out. I will be selling the last 3 on ebay cheap for those who want a RIPP spare. They may be good for racing but they are too unreliable for off road where you cant get a tow and need reliability. I put the stock mopar coils back in which are known to go 150K plus with no issues. To be honest I see no change back to stock. 1 is an anomoly, 3 in a year on a 2019 JL is an engineering failing trend. Also if you take it or tow it to a dealer under warranty you will pay full price for labor and parts to replace an aftermarket coil to get you back on the road. So your $300 "high performance" coils can cost you $800 to get bak on the road. Keep up the great work on the channel.
responding to your reply on the other comment that i cant find anymore. bro im telling you whether you have aftermarket garbage coils or oem jobs they fail left and right in my experience im always fixing CELs and oil and or coolant leaks coming from either the water pumps or the plastic oil coolers that fill the engine valley with fluid lol
I had the cylinder mid fire Jeep said it was a spark plug and coil that needed to be replaced. After 5 visits to the dealer they said coolant leaked into my engine oil and my engine is done . My jeep is a 2018 JL less than 50k miles. So it’s still under warranty what u can do is call a lawyer for the Lemmon law case in your state and they can pursue loss of value I will be getting 20% of what I payed for my jeep now plus a new engine
What’s up Ben!!! Just wanted to say what’s up and that I’ve really been enjoying the channel and all the content and everything you got going on. Keep it up man!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nah coil packs like this are press fit to plastic. Won't hurt it. Just means put a little shmoo on the plug before you put the boot back on. You can buy new lower boots and replace them as intended.
I feel you pain I had a durango with that same motor and I changed the spark plugs in it because we had the same issue it ended up being the coil pack and the insulation around the coil pack was arcing to the head, sucks you have to pull the intake! Look for white spots around the coil pack boot.
It could be that the oil leak you have could have caused that particular coil pack went bad. If that particular coil pack goes bad again I would fix that leak before you just swap back to stock again
I’d like to know if you didn’t go with the RIPP coil packs, is there another brand you would’ve chosen? And in regards to the RIPP’s have you noticed any noticeable performance or mpg increase?
Had the exact same problem with the ripp coils, ended up going back to stock coils. Had one misfiring out of the box and they fried my spark plugs in very short order
That "sensor" is the solenoid for the variable valve lift. And the ripp coil packs are junk. Just like their tuning, their blower kits, and their customer support.
Our JL is and will stay bone stock. Mods make for great content on your channel but engineers spend hundreds of thousands of hours designing a vehicle and then we come along and say Wouldnt it be cool if it had bigger tires... that little tire upgrade creates a host of issues and the fix to those issues creates more and so on and so on. The great thing about a rubicon is without any upgrades it can take you to amazing places. That said, love the show and mods make for very interesting content
This is why most engine mods aren’t worth it, especially when under warranty...unless you just want TH-cam content.
Wise words. There`s a drag racer I saw interviewed and he mentioned ignition is the last thing to mess with due to little gain.
He keeps messing with a perfect gladiator, IDIOT!🤣
or unless you just really want a supercharger. That's probably another good reason :)
Lol I love how you said “smell that”? With the spark plug as if we actually could😂
FYI - Ben lives in the future when he can send the smell over the internet via voice commands, but your dumb device in 21st century can't receive it. I actually smelled poorly-refined unburned mineral fuel. Duh!
i've smelled that smell before... i smelled it when he said that hahahhaa
I could smell it just fine. ;)
??? I did dont you have smellovision?
Hahaha smellovision. I’ll admit, I did sniff as if I could smell it when he said that. I wasn’t the only one who got tricked by it😂
Great example of a self inflicted problem that did not need to happen.
Rip coil packs are complete junk.
That was a dirty trick, when you held the spark plug up, and asked if we can smell it!!! I actually sniffed!!! I am glad my wife didn't see. I am glad it was a simple fix but I am going to watch for a wile before I start grabbing coil packs.
@6:09 tearing the entire intake off is NOT an easy fix Ben. I don't think the $300 for the coil packs plus the possible headaches they bring is worth the minimal benefits.
I took the intake manifold off my JK before to change spark plugs it’s not terrible is it a bit labor-intensive yes it’s not terrible
Meh.......taking off the intake on the 3.6 isn’t a big deal. Takes about 20 minutes. With that said, I wouldn’t have bothered with the upgraded coil packs. They deliver electricity for spark. Either there is enough electricity for spark or not. More fuel & air make HP
Do it once and it's not scary or a big deal. This has to come of for multiple repair items and dave's you a fortune with minimal effort. Give it a try.
Value for money... this is not a good upgrade imo. Unless you have significant performance mods to support them... i.e. a full built engine, not a stock one
Coil packs rarely make more Dyno proven power unless it is a heavily modified motor. Stay stock. 😊👍🏼
Glad you got it fixed and keep up the good work.
The oil weeping is coming from the Variable Valve Lift Solenoid seal. It’s a common issue. Replacing the seal doesn’t always fix it either. Sometimes a whole valve cover replacement is required.
I searched through so many comments for this one! Haha. I appreciate you.
Glad to see you followed up and owned the issue.
You always mention you don’t wanna make the video too long but dude I don’t think any of us mind, the longer the better
If something isn't broke don't fix it.
My take on aftermarket mods at least on V6 engines.
Amen brother
Man today’s engines aren’t like they used the be. So simple to work on 70-80s engines almost anyone could soup up an engine. Now days they are like apple computers...no user modifications. So much electronics computers etc it’s almost detrimental to try and soup up a modern engine. Glad you found out the problem. Let us know if another coil pack goes out so we can avoid
Everyone saying warranty is 36k but power train is 5 years 60k miles. I wouldn’t bother touching the motor before the 60k and honestly for the minimal bolt ons why even bother on a brand new motor.
That thing that has oil around it on the valve cover, is the variable valve lift solenoid. As far as you misfire goes the first thing we do as Chrysler techs is remove the at fault cylinders coil and inspect it for burns or pin holes. Then after that we will try and replace with a know good part or swap the coil to the left bank (so that if it's the coil, then we don't have to remove the intake).
Edit: the cam shaft sensor and the VVL solenoid just have oil around them. Believe it's because of the pressure from the crank causing oil to blow past
@Christian Emter oil catch can won't really help much aside from keeping the intake clean and potentially some other benefits. I wouldn't worry about it to much unless it got the the point where it's dripping oil down the side of the block like some poorly sealed cam shaft position sensors will.
Thanks for the video. I’m definitely wrenching on my JT and JK. Dealers or shops are super expensive. Videos like yours, make me feel more comfortable working on my own rigs. I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Thanks again.
Had a friend have a Dealership try and deny Warranty on a Trans Issue because they claimed the Oversized Tires were the cause... He got it Warrantied, but had to fight for it... Always depends on who’s behind the Counter at the Dealership 😡👍
Second Ripp coil pack failure I’ve seen this week. That’s a bummer
This engine has its own issues that never got fixed over the years. Cam/rocker being the bigger common problem. If you own one your should get familiar with taking that intake off to troubleshoot simple items. It's not hard and it's educational. Explore your rig and dont be scared to mod within reason. Jeep did an alright job but there is room for improvement. Remember they engineer for price, parts, stability then improvement last.
I have these installed now. I just got home from flying out, and on my drive home I got a p0305. Thankfully I was a mile away from my house. I just got done putting the old one in place of the bad pack and no more misfire. I had the updated coil pack as well. Looks like Im going back to the og packs when it gets nice enough to work on my jeep outside.
The grime/oil in front of the number 2 coil pack is an oil leak from the front VVT solenoid seals. I have 100k miles and both of my front ones are leaking. There are also ones in the back. The only way to replace the seals is take off the valve covers.
Mine will have to wait. Just did the oil cooler and plugs.
I've run the Ripp Coil and plug wires on my 3.8 for over 20,000 miles with no issue, just my experience with them. I've been happy with the performance of their product.
Love the Gladiator, but I'd leave it alone and focus on that badass JK. The Pentastar performs great as-is. Maintain it well and it'll serve well longer than you'll probably want to keep it. Let's see you get that V8 into the JK! I always enjoy your videos! Thank you for making them and giving us a little getaway during these rotten Covid times!
Aftermarket coils on a stock engine is a waste of time money and reliability. Good thing you didn't bring it to the dealer they would have handed you a very nice bill.
FYI you don't feel any driving difference with the coils on a stock engine. Its in your head.
I had a number 2 misfire on my JK went through the whole ordeal of changing my coilpacks and did the plugs as well since I had it all apart already. It didn't fix it and pulled the intake off again and started looking at the actual electrical connectors to the coil packs. The number 2 had a lot of oil in it. Sprayed it with some contact cleaner and it all cleared up.
I have been using the MSD performance packs on my JK and havent had any issues thus far.
I have never had an issue with anything made by MSD
Boy I’m glad I saw this before I bought them.
That drill on your fender is making me nuts
I thought it was my OCD kicking in. 😂😂😂🤦🏽♂️
My Gladiator has 105K miles and now is misfiring. I had the coils and plugs replaced and it did not fix it and the shop can not figure it out. I have no mods to the engine. However thanks for the video.
all JLs have a leak in that same valve, impersonally have change it twice but it still leaking ! dealer has no answer for this
In my opinion, I think it’s best to do performance upgrades after the warranty runs out, or at least don’t change anything that isn’t a quick change back to stock.
💯good advice especially for someone who's not a good mechanic like myself
Hi Ben,
The Ripp coil packs are known to be bad. The Pentastar V6 performance group has this documented well for several months now. They also have done a dyno shootout of the various coil packs and there is no real gain either.
Keep those videos coming. We learn by experience what to mess with and what to leave stock.
Best Jeep video on TH-cam hands down! He go’s over installing and review’s of parts like they should be not 10 min after there installed but after running them for a wile. Great work my man.
That is for the variable intake valve lift.
Yeah like you said Ben lots of people selling their JTs. Not sure why but I’ll be keeping mine that’s for sure.
Love the jt, can’t wait to purchase mine
Thanks for update and info on Rip pack. I have the JK kit over 6000 plus miles and now have my stock on hand with me in jeep. Hope you are up and running for a long time now. One off bad pack. Great video Ben
I can't imagine that changing the coil changes the performance much, except for making it worse when they fall.
I changed my spark plugs and coil packs on my 2013 jk 2 weekends ago. Saved over $400 on labor, so I spent extra on laser iridium spark plugs.
Holy shit that spark gap was huge
If I’m not mistaken, that sensor is the camshaft sensor which does help advance the timing. But as far as the VVT, has a lot to do with the cam phasers which is controlled by oil pressure.
Thanks for the heads up, won’t bother with ripp
Timing on this is amazing, my light just came on, sounds exactly like yours and has the same code.... only problem is I didn’t put new coil packs on...
Well you should be under warranty
Had the exact same issue with my ripp coil pack, same cylinder too. I just went back to oems on all 6. It's a pia to get to those!
Ben, never listen to the hate. While I personally don't care for the JT, it doesn't stop me from enjoying your content. Keep doing what you are doing and get paid. I appreciate what you've been doing with the channel.
Glad you got that figured out this now the 3rd coil pack ive heard of going bad from RIPP i personally havent had the issue im about 10-15k into my coil packs with the longest drive ive done with them was 3.5 hours towing 2klbs not sure if i got lucky or if its coming down the pipeline for me as well
Makes me second guess myself about getting their superchargers. Ripp wouldn't even take the failed coil packs for further testing so to improve the reliability.
There's a satisfaction that comes with doing the work yourself and the knowledge on the quality of the work. With TH-cam videos like yours available, how could you go wrong. I've always believed that once you "Modify it", the warranty is void, as printed in the tiny print. So if you are planning modifications, be careful not to purchase a warranty that will conflict with your plans.
I just ran into this and found that it was due to watered down gas. When we are currently paying $5 a gallon for gas it makes it even worse to find out that the fuel is being tainted with water. Just thought I would add to the possible causes for this P0300 issue.
Driving a cylinder dumping fuel for any period of time on a highway WILL blow your cats. Been there done that. In my case the ECU was broken. Had to replace cats after 1 hour highway driving.
Of course it's not easy to tear into for the coil change. New vehicles are all the same so you take it in to have the dealer to repair. Video gives you what your into doing mods. Really looked not too bad. Great job!
I put the 3.8 Ripp coil pack on my JK and it died within a month. I got stranded on the side of the road on the way home from work at 3am. I removed it and just put a stock one back and haven't had a single issue since. It was not worth the $200 to me to have the possibility of being stuck on the side of the road.
That 3.6 Pentastar is pretty highly tuned. They make a lot of power for a V-6. The one thing I don’t mess with, the motor. It’s as good as they can make it
For as big as this motor is, its very underpowered, other brands making way more power with a lot less, this motor is kinda sad and tired.
@cobra935o it's been toned down for the JT gladiator use. It's not the most torque or power but a very smooth and fairly reliable engine.
I had dealt with a similar issue regarding my 17 JKU, so long story short, my Transmission went at 40k now this is a jeep that was lifted on 35s regeared to 4.56 with an air locker in the rear. sadly this jeep has lived on the pavement for basically its entire existence. I still had my 3 year 100k powertrain warranty and I had to fight 3 different dealers and Jeep themselves to get my Transmission fixed. It took well over 6 months for my jeep to get back on the road after fighting tooth and nail to get my warranty because this was not my fault.
seemed odd the pack was separated from the rubber piece when removed. I switched to the rip coil packs myself when I did my spark plugs at 85000 miles. About 5000 miles on them now with no issues but now I’m hoping I seated those rubber pieces well enough. LOL. All that work was done after I took it into the dealer and paid about $1700 to have the upper and lower cams and 12 rockers and lifters replaced on one side of the engine. The old pentastar tick..
If you keep running them make sure your tool pouch has a 1/4 wratchet, extension, 8,10 mm socket, fkathead screw driver, 8, 10 mm box wrench, extra mopar coil pack and a real good flaslight and golf umbrella because it will fail at 2 am in a rain storm. Save your time and money...go back to stock. Peace.
Yeah! Go Ben! Way to fixing it, great video, very humble and honest.
Always love how detail your videos are. Awesome. Didn't know you already pull two V8 for engine swap. Freaking awesome
I almost bought these Ripp coil packs for my Tacoma but a guy I know had issues with them.
Glad the fix was an easy one, also glad to hear Ripp sent a new part(good business on their part). I like the overhead storage you've got on the single garage door side.👍
What good does it do to replace that faulty part with an equally faulty part though? If the problem is that the design is bad to begin with they can continue sending you new ones forever and you’ll keep having the same problem.
That kind of stuff I would’ve waited until I was out of warranty then I would do those type of upgrades. Great video👍🏻👍🏻
I had the 2011 Black ops call of duty Rubicon and I put the 5.7L Hemi and loved it but gas mileage went from bad to terrible so I sold it and bought the new JLUR and now I want to put a hemi in it and my wife said he’ll no but I’m kind of leaning that way. I want more power and would t mind a super charger but I hear nothing but problems with them and don’t want problems want a OEM feel and swap.
It’s hard to beat the stock coil packs. It’s just one of those parts that you can’t gain much with and you risk issues like these. I feel the same about CAI also. Though at least those sound cool when you hammer down on the throttle.
I figured that was what it was as soon as you posted the codes and mentioned the RIPP coil packs. Just not worth the slight gain for the headache it caused.
Glad to hear it was only a coil pack and not something more in depth.
Glad your still 392 ing the jk.
New to the Jeep and 3.6 scene. Thanks for this info, if nothing else, it's good to know what's needed to get access to the spark plugs and coils.
There's no reason to upgrade from the factory coils until you are making at least double the original horsepower. The OE ignition parts are seriously powerful and extremely reliable.
I have a 2020 Chevy colorado zr2 and I refuse to take it the dealer; I rather fix the problem myself than have incompetent people working on my truck.
I did the same to my 16' JKU. Got the Cylinder 2 misfire code, rough idle etc. etc. Ended up putting the RIPP Supercharger Coil Packs with some NGK Iridium spark plugs and the problem went away!
I hate to sound negative but I have to say that with all the problems RIPP has had with their superchargers and tunes I would have trouble buying anything with their name on it. Bummer than the one that failed was on the most labor intensive side of the engine.
3.6 is great on fuel and acceleration is not bad but not enough for towing .....
It's plenty for towing as long as you don't mind the thing constantly revving to the moon. We tow 6k pounds with ours a few times a year. Max Tow Gladiator.
It’s a cam position sensor. They seep oil. I took mine in and jeep refused to fix. Said it’s not dropping so not a leak. Had the same oil. Tons of oil residue on the underside of the engine block. Curious if you’re is the same. On trails with the windows down, the smell of oil was horrible.
Had same issue with these coil packs , just went OEM and no issues whatsoever, like someone else stated the amount of work for the reward isn't worth it
This was an extremely obvious problem from the start and was shocked when you said you don't think it could be your brand new Ripp coil packs. To work on cars as much as you do and that not be the immediate answer is scary!!!
Glad you got it fixed! And you’re getting close to 100,000 viewers 🙌🏼
Put the coil that you took off on an easier to access cylinder, see if the misfire follows it. Lifters are a common issue that will cause a misfire as well
I just spent yesterday afternoon ripping these RIPP coils out of my jeep. 3rd coil failed 200 miles from home on the road at midnight the day after your Gladiator had the same issue. Biggest waste of 300 bucks I can think of. I think they fire too hot and burn out. I will be selling the last 3 on ebay cheap for those who want a RIPP spare. They may be good for racing but they are too unreliable for off road where you cant get a tow and need reliability. I put the stock mopar coils back in which are known to go 150K plus with no issues. To be honest I see no change back to stock. 1 is an anomoly, 3 in a year on a 2019 JL is an engineering failing trend. Also if you take it or tow it to a dealer under warranty you will pay full price for labor and parts to replace an aftermarket coil to get you back on the road. So your $300 "high performance" coils can cost you $800 to get bak on the road. Keep up the great work on the channel.
responding to your reply on the other comment that i cant find anymore. bro im telling you whether you have aftermarket garbage coils or oem jobs they fail left and right in my experience im always fixing CELs and oil and or coolant leaks coming from either the water pumps or the plastic oil coolers that fill the engine valley with fluid lol
A friend just had RIPP coil packs fail after nine months. I’d use MSD products. They’ve been in the game way longer.
I had the cylinder mid fire Jeep said it was a spark plug and coil that needed to be replaced. After 5 visits to the dealer they said coolant leaked into my engine oil and my engine is done . My jeep is a 2018 JL less than 50k miles. So it’s still under warranty what u can do is call a lawyer for the Lemmon law case in your state and they can pursue loss of value I will be getting 20% of what I payed for my jeep now plus a new engine
I think the ripp coil pack boot unseated; I drove my 300 cross country for 2 yrs. 24 hrs running straight and back several times
Why did you upgrade the coil packs in the first place? Was the stock coils weak for NA motor?
What’s up Ben!!! Just wanted to say what’s up and that I’ve really been enjoying the channel and all the content and everything you got going on. Keep it up man!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I wonder if the coil pack was actually bad after seeing it come out in two pieces. I would swap it out with one of the easy to change ones to test it
Nah coil packs like this are press fit to plastic. Won't hurt it. Just means put a little shmoo on the plug before you put the boot back on. You can buy new lower boots and replace them as intended.
Common issue people are having with ripp coils
Thanks for making TH-cam videos, I always enjoy watching them. God bless✌🏻
Great job on the diagnostics,Ben. Love the channel.
I feel you pain I had a durango with that same motor and I changed the spark plugs in it because we had the same issue it ended up being the coil pack and the insulation around the coil pack was arcing to the head, sucks you have to pull the intake! Look for white spots around the coil pack boot.
It could be that the oil leak you have could have caused that particular coil pack went bad. If that particular coil pack goes bad again I would fix that leak before you just swap back to stock again
I’d like to know if you didn’t go with the RIPP coil packs, is there another brand you would’ve chosen? And in regards to the RIPP’s have you noticed any noticeable performance or mpg increase?
People make fun of the 3.8 but I can get to every part of that motor without removing anything!
Please start one of the projects on the engine swap.......
Lj Ls swap has been going for a little bit. It takes time since I don’t do youtube as my job
Had the exact same problem with the ripp coils, ended up going back to stock coils. Had one misfiring out of the box and they fried my spark plugs in very short order
Good to see it was a simple fix.
Do you ever experience rough idle on start up? I’ve been noticing it with mine, goes away once I drive. Happens every time
That "sensor" is the solenoid for the variable valve lift. And the ripp coil packs are junk. Just like their tuning, their blower kits, and their customer support.
any other videos of you doing the coil/plug change? I am wanting to do my plugs and coils.
Good honest assessment. Like your content sir.
Really like this channel. Keep up the good work!
Our JL is and will stay bone stock. Mods make for great content on your channel but engineers spend hundreds of thousands of hours designing a vehicle and then we come along and say Wouldnt it be cool if it had bigger tires... that little tire upgrade creates a host of issues and the fix to those issues creates more and so on and so on. The great thing about a rubicon is without any upgrades it can take you to amazing places. That said, love the show and mods make for very interesting content
How did you get the metal plate that slightly covers the coils bolt to give you enough room?
Thanks for the video. I knew I would run into reliability issues with switching to Jeep, coming from owning Toyotas but I am glad it wasn't OEM parts.
happens more often then not when people use aftermarket coil packs, OEM is the way to go