ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2020
- Worn Out, Air Cooled 044 Magnum performance head. (40 x 35) valves.
It's been a great set of heads with thousands of miles on them. In the end I tried to get fancy with Ratio Rocker arms and didn't get the geometry perfect. I wore out some of the valve guide's. #3 intake actually broke off and went into the cylinder damaging the piston and head.
So now it's time to show how I remove the springs and valves, Cut the valve guide heads off and drill out the valve guides. Then hammer out the guides and decide what to do next. I will also show you how to CC your head chamber and calculate how many CC's a .040 head spacer cerate's.
It actually comes out to approximately 10 CC on a 90.5 / 92 cylinder head. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Never know what you’ll learn from your videos. Thanks as always for taking the time to record and share your input, thoughts and processes.
I appreciate that!
This brings me back to the 1980’s when I used to do all this work at a machine shop. Good times.
That's awesome
Learned a lot from this video. In the old days I would have this done by a shop, but now I feel confident enough to try it myself
Go for it.
I know exactly what you mean about the batchlor deal, I have been for the last 24 years . My kitchen table is covered with body work supplies. I am just getting started on getting my 68 Baja ready to paint. I have tools magnetic tray ,bolts, starter bushing, i call it my indoor workbench. I like rebuilding Turbos and carburetors in the winter.
That is awesome! I think you and I normal. It's the rest of the world that is messed up.
You’re such a happy go lucky guy. Love watching your videos. I’m on a budget as well so it’s great to learn and get ideas to get the job done with what you have. 👍🏼🤙🏼
You can do it!
Hey man Kevin here from Australia. Another great informative video thanks man.
And may your cylinder heads R.I.P they've served you well.
✌ Peace.
Amen
Well, I've never seen valve guides removed that way before! It worked though.
HOW HAVE YOU SEEN IT DONE?
Great tips on the drill press. I need to get one those. Also like the info on removing valve guides. 👍
Thanks 👍
Good set of videos lately EZGZ. “I need a burrito” is a household phrase over here now. 😎
😁 I appreciate the support. Smother that Burrito ounce in a while ..... you need those veggie's. hehehehe
Great video been watching for years, keep it up
Thanks Frank, enjoy your Burrito :-)
LOL I have the same exact drill press. Another informative video EZ. Thanks!
My only complaint is the short spindle stroke but it usually get's the job done.
You're always entertaining
Thanks for being nice. Have Burrito and be safe out there.
Thanks for taking us along while you cored and drilled out the old guides. Sorry those heads didn't end up working out. I'm concerned about the fact my own engine is eating guides. I have a stock-ish 40hp engine with the big bore kit and 1.1:1 rockers (stock ones were 1:1). I've only got 3200 miles on my rebuild and the car had been puffing smoke on start up since about 1700 miles or so, and I finally got wise when I saw a bunch of brass shavings in the valve cover below the number 2 exhaust valve. No other guides except #2 exhaust were in that bad of a shape and I did have a galled rocker in that position so hoping that was the entire issue. I've since had the guides replace and added a new set of CB solid shaft 1.1 rockers with elephant feet adjusters and am hoping for no more issues.
If you use those elephant ft adjusters on a totally stock engine usually 1 of those .060 shims under each rocker stand is correct. If you have a higher lift cam and have heads that are not stock and shims under the cylinders then you have to pay real close attention to correcting the rocker arm geometry by using shims. IMHO when you start seeing the smoke you have guide wear. The other thing that comes into play is that if you are thrashing your engine at high RPM's a lot and your rings are worn ( the stock 2mm piston rings don't take high RPM's to long) 1.5 Mahle forged pistons Rule. Anyway, if you get a lot of ring blowby and don't vent your valve covers or suck the crank case gas into your air cleaners you are building pressure in the case and forcing it down the worn valve guides.
Hope I didn't ruin your day with that. Have a Burrito and save up for your dream engine.
@@TheEZGZ thanks Ez. I used both .060 shims since it seemed like there wasn't enough adjustability with only one. I am going to do the half-lift test with my dial tester just to be sure of the geometry. As mentioned the engine is my stock(ish) 1965 rebuilt engine with the 83mm big bore AA pistons and cylinders. I have an Autometer monster tach and the highest rpm I've turned is perhaps 4000, and that is on the interstate at 75mph. I mostly keep it to 3500 and under. Cam is stock (or so I think!) one that I bought from CIP1 a few years back. Someone had added 1.1 rockers on stock shafts but mixed them with 1:1 stock ones, and as mentioned the number 2 (intake?) rocker was chewed up a bit on its side, so not sure if that was a factor. to be safe I just went ahead and upgraded to solid shafts with 1.1 rockers with oiling grooves, so we'll see how that goes. Heads are the good '65 square boss ones, and other than a .010 cleanup flycut are stock with 31 x 30 Intake/exhaust valves. I agree with you that smoke is an indicator of guide wear, now that I've seen from experience the smoke created when a guide gives way. I have compression set at 7.9:1 which is what the big bore kit calls for. Stock compression was I believe 7:1. For crankcase venting it only has the stock connection from the oil filler to the oil bath air cleaner. Carb is slightly bigger than stock and is 30 pict 1 instead of 28 pict 1. I was running stock exhaust with the heavy (finned) heater boxes but have located a very rare 40hp extractor header I'll be adding soon. All said I may be taking the 40hp SAE rating up to perhaps 45-47 in top state of tune anyway. I guess all I can do is keep an eye on it. thanks again - Ted
@@TheEZGZ And I will have that burrito you mentioned lol!
EZ you my friend are a master!
Let's have a Burrito and you can tell me more! LOL
Another great video ... loved your comment .... "these are the things you can do when you're a bachelor, get out of my kitchen!" Hahaha you lucky guy!!
Maybe thats why I've remained single and happy!
Great vid!
Hey! Hey!
Interesting series, I don't think anyone has ever gone thru the steps to build a torque-biased engine...always high RPM bias, but fascinating!
Thanks for checking in Ken. I appreciate your input
Hello EZGZ good tools think selfmade, i just to also and your also a technic handscraft for shure, with good Videos for flat 4 friends.
Best greatings from Germany.
Thank you very much!
@@TheEZGZ Next i will check your good idea with the possible stuck main oil piston :-)
Great tips EZ
thank you again egz
Any time!
@@TheEZGZ need some up dates love the videos
Talking about heads. Bought a "built" motor was shown invoices ran the motor in my bug. Was used as a daily after a year compression dropped past 7:1 ratio. Used a mechanics camera toi see if a ring broke or some thing else no problems there. Took heads of rocker caps was grinded a bit push rod bent and had 2 exhaust valves burnt and 4 intakes was super sticky. Motor didnt even see 400miles.
:-(
@@TheEZGZ It is sad. Seems too me nobody has passion in their work any more and its all about the money. Cracked my piggybank too buy all new parts and going too build a 2054cc. Mild cam or hot cam? Like too hear your thoughts.
Stay tuned folks.
Have you been to the Burt Munro museum over there on the rock?
@@TheEZGZ yes, two of my all time hero's are Burt Monro and John Britten. There are some real inspiring Vidios on John Britten on Utube. Please watch and let me know what you think. Hence the saying "Kiwi No8 mentality".
Normally if I know the cc of my head and want to use let's say a .040 shim I just add the .040 to the deck height measurement. Seems to work well with no mess. That sucks those heads may have already had oversized guides. Wonder if they over drilled them and did that as a bandaid.
That's a good point John. I always look forward to your info tips. I bought those heads new back in the 90's. But ya never know what they did before ya get them. Those exhausts were really in there tight but the intakes didn't put up a fight.
I got a question for you. I was thinking of using these old SS exhaust valves on the 48cc heads as intakes. They seem to clean up nice and the radius under the valve had has a smoother flowing shape. I miked the stems and they seem smooth and straight. It would be a easier life compared to where they were. I saw SS valves over at CB for $8 ea all fancy but they are out of 32 exhausts. Cal imports has these SS Italian jobs with slightly smaller stems for $16 ea. I bet there they same thing. Somebody just flooded the market with them. What say you?
TheEZGZ it can't hurt to try and see how they lap in with some lapping compound. $16 a valve is a little much. I normally just run the TRW valves. They are in the $8 range. If they have stock intake valve size I try to stick with the O.E. Vw ones. You don't have any of the old 041 heads laying around do you? Those would be a good choice being you want to keep with the smaller ports but have a bigger intake valve. I had a 1915 with those stock heads and choked down 48idas that would run away from mustangs and Camaros years ago. I know gene burg called 041 heads basturds but they worked good on small motors
Adding the shim size to the deck height only works on matching bore sizes. I forgot you had the thick walls with 90.5 tops and 88 bore cylinders slip in
Now I'm confused lol. I normally only use barrel shims and not head shims
Ez what is that cutting tool you used in your drill press, the one that knocks the very top off the guide before you start the coring process?
I got it from GENE BERG enterprises years ago. I don't see it on there sight now. Check out cylinder head supply
www.cylinderheadsupply.com/valve-guide-tools.html
What angel do you have on your drill press for drilling your valve guides out
Stephen
The Gene Berg cutter part is GB 706
Give GeneBerg enterprise, a call
They should be able to get you one. I may get one myself.
Been watching for a while, I thought you built that 1800 because you thought it was already cut for 92s (1776) so you got some of the cheap heads already cut for 92. Then you found out it was just a 1600 so you figured you'd try the 88 slip ins with the heavy walls. Now you say you've had these heads forever. Evidently you didn't use the new heads, lol. I remember you had a whole bitch fit about the castings and what not, lol.
Either way I appreciate you trying those slip ins, now we know with a little more confidence you can run them trouble free for the most part. Also are those heads that were on it were those 92s or 90.5 or stock size with big valves
Your close but No Burrito! I did order 90.5 stock heads before I took it apart. I did not like the look of them and wanted something better for the trip. I ordered another set of new heads that were from AA super 501 40 X 35. They were ported to radical for this size engine so I put them on the 2110. I took the heads you see here from the 2110 and put them on the fresh 1800 and took off on the trip with 1.11's when I got back home I moved it to the tub buggy and put on 1.25's and felt a improvement. Then I pulled it and put in the fresh 1776 SP. So this year I decided to test engines and put on the 1.4's a week ago for heart break hill. I couldn't get the geometry right but figured it would work for a quick run up the hill. In less than 20 miles I sucked the valve guide. So here we are experimenting with more parts on hand to try something else and help folks understand how these little engines work.
If you use the 88 slip in's, the base is stock that will slip into 1300, 1500, 1600 engines. The head size will have to be a head cut to 90.5 / 92 and what ever size valve you want.
You are right to put those CB heads to one side due to expense.....time you have got hold of the correct guides, fitted them and then of course re cut the valve seats (a must when fitting new guides) its gets costly...and time consuming......but one day you will restore those heads and they will ride again!
Sounds like a plan.... Thanks for your support
Hi EZ, been watching for a while now and enjoy your videos. Just thought I would leave a massage and let you know your doing a good job. Enjoy and be safe. I have 2 dune buggies (both are Appletree). Been a life long buggy guy. Can you do something on a 1915 or 1835? That what I have. Thanks
Awesome, thank you! 1915 or 1835 are both common VW engines and everything I share should apply......? In about 1984 I made it to the Silver lake sand dunes and saw the store but it was during week and nobody was home.
TheEZGZ I understand, the store moved to “online” sales and away from the sand dunes about 7 miles east. Thanks, have a good day
Thanks Troy, next time I go to visit my brother I plan on checking it out.
TheEZGZ what part of Michigan does your brother live? I live in Coldwater.
you need to account for when the intake valve closes on your cam for your compression ratio ,
I feel like your holding back something I don't know about. If you have time please explain?
We live in Westcliffe at 8000ft altitude. Most of my driving will be 8000-10000ft. Will be building new 2110, what compression ratio would you recommend? Thanks
It would be unfair of me to just suggest 8.5 - 9.0 and walk away.
If you want it to be trouble free and live a long life be conservative.....
I spend my days between 5k and 10k ft as well. The pump gas where I live and drive reflects the altitude. The highest octane is 91 If you lived at seal level it would be 93 ethanol free sometimes.
Sooooo what that equates to is you should run the same ratio as anyone else. If you retard your timing it costs you power and creates heat. Then we start getting to all those Samba variables from the "x-spurts" hehehe There are tons of build variables and engine uses. Your really haven't asked a fair question. If your building a new 2110 you intuition is probably the best thing to follow. Be Conservative. The extra displacement and longer stroke will be wonderful for a few months and then you will be thinking of what you should have done different..... it's inevitable and it's also addictive. My 2110 engine is going to go into the hospital very soon for a cam transplant.
@@TheEZGZ Hey EZGZ. Thanks for responding to my question. I appreciate your advice.
Were did you get the drill bit for cutting your valve down for remover.
It came in a valve guide installation kit from Gene Berg Enterprises
@@TheEZGZ Thank you very much
Who makes that valve spring tool?
there everywhere try carcraftvw
Are you meant to run ratio rockers with a high lift cam?, I thought not advisable.
You are Correct !
Only if the Cam manufacturer recommends it as an option. Even then you might want to ask yourself.... I'm I feeling Lucky today! hehehe
couldn't you just add the cooper shim thickness to the deck height of the calculator since you knew the cc were 48 to begin with?
That's a great point! Buuuuuut deck height is generally a flat piston top to cylinder edge. Most compression calculator's I use ask specifically the deck height and cylinder volume in CC's. The cylinder head is irregular. The spacer is just flat. The ID of the spacer could even effect over all CC volume. So many things to ponder and so EZ to make mistakes along the way. Thanks for your comment , go on over to the Burrito bar and fix yourself something to eat. hehehe
Hmm... Forty minutes & you didn’t get to actually removing the valve guides? In that much time you could remove 4 guides from two heads with no trauma to the heads, no drill press, no special piloting tool. Here’s how: Tap the rocker end of guide with 3/8” 16 tap about 2” in, screw in a bolt, use a 5/16” pin punch (better yet an impact chatter gun) from the port end, knock it out. The guide will tend to stretch rather than expand, not gall and they’re out. Throw them in the brass recycle barrel and press (or use a hammer and stepped drift if you must) in new guides with a little anti-seize. Be sure to ream new guides to at least factory clearance so the valves don’t seize or gall. Probably only exhaust will need replacement if it’s stock and/or rocker geometry was correct. Ten minutes per guide when you get the hang of it.
You present some interesting options for all of us to consider. I personally get the idea you have used this method on cast iron heads with success. However I would not recommend doing it that way on VW heads. You never want to insert a new guide in a aluminum head with anti seize, I would never use a chatter gun from the port end as it is very possible that the valve guide boss will break off at the base, especially if they have been cut for double springs. I just had a intake valve guide failure on some older race heads. The rest of the intakes came out easy compared to the exhaust. Spark plugs threads are another good reason to throw away old heads. Most aftermarket engine parts for a VW are junk and not worth rebuilding. Thanks for commenting and sharing your thoughts. Everyone has an opinion.
Turbo charge it!
It would sure make up for the lack of air at 7k altitude, I would love a 7 lb pump gas rig.
@@TheEZGZ we had a 1915 with CB's EFI turbo. Was a great ride.