So in metalworking, this effect occurs because the outside layers of the metal reacts with the air to create "scale" which occurs unevenly as well as the metal and heating not being perfectly consistent which creates this visual effect. Particularly in the case of space dwarves, this effect works great because of the metalworking refrence. There is also a ton of refrence material available in forging videos on youtube. I am definitly going to try this on some bloodletters in my queue.
Hey, result is lovely as always! But I don't think it'd work a primarily orange colorscheme as I plan to do on mines. Could the same method but in a different tone still look good ? Maybe green or magenta ?
@@trovarion Thanks, I wasn't sure as this is heat-based and those are not colors associated with radiating heat so I wasn't convinced it would make sense to the eye. Will try !
You're always the most accessible artist for professional grade minipainting. This is so simple but looks so great! I'll have to figure out how I can incorporate this effect into my Lamenters army :)
Damm, I have seen similar executions. But seeing your entire process it blows my mind how big of a difference a single step can make. Even the tiny amount of black really sold the effect of the lava weapon so well.
Excellent tutorial - and I especially liked your comment about there not necessarily being step,1 step 2, etc….to get a finished product but it’s ok to go back and forth, touching up as needed. Thanks very much!
Looks great. I really like these more "messy" results that don't rely on extremely smooth gradients because I felt they're more achievable and less time intensive, while giving you that satisfaction of painting something well. Really succinct video too, thanks for covering that you went back and forth a lot as many artists don't include those details.
I've got a space marine captain to paint and I was going to just go for a regular glazing technique, but I'm going to do this for sure! Amazing result. Only difference is, I'm going to make mine blue :O
Excellent video! I saw this effect some time ago and made my own recipe that is pretty much similar to yours. However, i did not give it as much time and affort as you did. But it is great to see someone as established as you are basically coming to the same conclusion. One thing i did differently though was using a dark/blackish brown instead of black in the last step. I think that looks a little nicer, even though it does reduce the contrast a little
I gave up on trying to do power weapons well all the other techniques never seemed to work well. but after doing this i was amazed even i could pull off a good ish power weapon so thank you
Great to see you back with a new video. Its been too long! I like finishing my charred bits off with some dark sea blue. It adds a little something extra to the black
The shape and colours are reminiscent of arched cathedral or chuch windows with stained glass, which would be fantastic for black templars or other such chapters of marines as it would really help bridge the gap in the aesthetics and tie the models together. very nice work.
I tried the molten weapon effect on my last model and really like it, but my attempt wasn’t that visually interesting, so this helps a ton. Thank you :)
Goat Damn this is great. Really loved the comment on working back and forth, reminds me of the days where we started using agile vs waterfall method🤣 (Not In relation to minie painting;).
1) Awsome work as always 2) love the video and i would love some more with this time length 3) I am really not in a possition to give any advice to any painter, especially to you, but i have seen ( in others videos) and tested on my power swords a little better effect just by replacing black with brown on the edges...Just an honest opinion. Thanks again for the cool video ! John Gialidis from Greece.
I did something similar to this using my airbrush, except I made the blade edge white, so my gradient was the opposite of yours. And you're right, the black is a very important step to give that charred metal look.
For me, using contrast paints for items like this is so much easier. I am not a great, or even good, painter, but the translucency of the contrast paints makes gradients significantly easier. Looks great, will be trying the black spot technique later on today. Thanks for the tutorial!
I like it a lot, and it's wonderful to see a painter doing more than just "slap chop." AKA "Prime white and slather it with (crazy expensive) contrast paints and DOESN'T IT LOOK BRILLIANT." That's a trend I wish would go away. Sure, you get your minis on the table nice and quick, but for me, the artistic side of miniatures painting goes out the window with that approach. This is why I liked this video, and thank you for posting it!
That looks really great. I was going to do yellow armor for my squats, now I'm wondering if I should do all the armor like this, or if it would drive me crazy painting the whole army like that, but I bet it would look cool
The use of black kind of reminds me of the comic book technique of Kirby Krackle - you're almost creating negative space on a 3D model. Super cool. Or should I say super HOT? :P
It looks bloody great, but I've always wondered why we paint energy weapons to be cool on the edge and hot at the core - the edge is the bit we'll be hitting them with after all. Maybe it's just what looks cooler. I mean, awesomer.
I guess it just makes more sense to the eye, since the energy emitting part of the sculpt is always at the centre of the blade, or the hilt. You make a good point though, it's certainly been done before - that sword in halo is the first thing that comes to mind. Would certainly be interesting to see, the votann swords are good candidates to try it on!
Also when it strikes the target, that would tend to cool the power weapon, where the contact was. It would be beyond me to pain, but I think physically that is what should happen
It's rule of cool. If you heated up a metal to strike things with, each strike would deform your weapon. In this fictional world, your enemies would just make armor out of the same metal whenever they could because it's not going to cut through itself. They also wouldn't want to wear a suit of molten lava. Having heated weapons makes zero sense. You want them at a normal temperature. So since we're making weapons that don't make any sense, we make them look bitchin' as shit.
@@nekrataali Votann use blades of plasma, no metal involved. Power swords aren't simply heated up either, they emit a field of energy surrounding the blade - though what that "energy" is, who knows.
@@clinch4402 seeing as they're called power swords, it must be "power energy". Simple physics really. 😉 😉 I just think it's was interesting that we tend to make an aesthetic choice to portray the edge as *less* "power energy fiery". It still looks kewl as fook, which is all that matters, but hot edges might look kewl as fook too - maybe even kewler.
This looks excellent, thank you! Curious to hear though if you think this technique is applicable to larger models/blades as well, think treelord big, or if it's better suited for smaller ones?
Hey Trov! Very nice video, and a great tip! I have a small Khorne army on my table which means there are a total of 63 big daemonic swords I have to get through. Any tips on how to make them look magic and deadly while keeping the time spent on each of them to no more than 10-12 minutes or so? Thx!
This is kinda standard in the hobby. What I’d love to hear from you is does it make sense to finish with a glaze of say yellow? It feels a little matte for a flaming weapon. Either way thanks for the great videos and I’m grabbing a T!
Thank you again! Another cool technique in a simple tutorial. I came to the same spot with power weapons, sort of like a superheated weapon from Fallout, however, I typically left the blend from yellow to orange to black smooth and stippled black and dark brown in last for the variations in heat. I'll try your random variations next time, it looks so much more vibrant. Also, I usually blend dark brown in between the red and black, I don't know if that hurts or helps me, but straight to black is very good looking. The last thing I do is add a yellow/white wash around the bright spots on adjacent surfaces for a little OSL, looks like you did that too, or did you use the overpaint of white to achieve that? Great video as usual, keep them coming.
But what if you added a white highlight around the entire cutting edge? As if the thinnest part of the blade was the hottest because of its relative inability to transfer heat?
@@trovarion I mean I’d like to see what it looks like on the finalised model? To see how the sword looks against a fully painted mini? Great job, either way 😁
Love the tutorial and the result looks really cool! What I don't get is the logic behind the design. If I had an energy sword that I want to cut into stuff with, why would I want the edges to be the coolest part? What good would a hot middle do me here? Would I not want the edges to be the hottest part so it could cut better? What I am trying to say is: Somebody please test if it still looks as cool when the hot and cold parts are reversed. I am not a good enough painter to try it and I am very curious. ;)
I fell in love with this way of painting Powerweapons and magic weapons! Do you like the result?
It’s absolutely amazing!
So in metalworking, this effect occurs because the outside layers of the metal reacts with the air to create "scale" which occurs unevenly as well as the metal and heating not being perfectly consistent which creates this visual effect. Particularly in the case of space dwarves, this effect works great because of the metalworking refrence. There is also a ton of refrence material available in forging videos on youtube. I am definitly going to try this on some bloodletters in my queue.
Hey, result is lovely as always! But I don't think it'd work a primarily orange colorscheme as I plan to do on mines. Could the same method but in a different tone still look good ? Maybe green or magenta ?
@@__E__ yes.
@@trovarion Thanks, I wasn't sure as this is heat-based and those are not colors associated with radiating heat so I wasn't convinced it would make sense to the eye. Will try !
You're always the most accessible artist for professional grade minipainting. This is so simple but looks so great! I'll have to figure out how I can incorporate this effect into my Lamenters army :)
Damm, I have seen similar executions. But seeing your entire process it blows my mind how big of a difference a single step can make. Even the tiny amount of black really sold the effect of the lava weapon so well.
This looks great, but I would also love to see a video on that fire effect on the Scions of the Flame model at 0:11 seconds. That looks so good!
It's on my patreon. www.patreon.com/posts/48117234
You have been such a good teacher for me, and i continue to learn so much. Thank you so much Trov.
Excellent tutorial - and I especially liked your comment about there not necessarily being step,1 step 2, etc….to get a finished product but it’s ok to go back and forth, touching up as needed. Thanks very much!
Best fiery tutorial for weapons ever seen. Thank you and nice work!!!!
Great video. Love the step by step detailed approach on a single topic.
And the result was incredible!
This is a snappy video with solid editing! I know its something you have said you struggle with before, great job with this!
I love how your comedy and editing evolved over the years!
Oh and your painting is pretty decent too
Looks great. I really like these more "messy" results that don't rely on extremely smooth gradients because I felt they're more achievable and less time intensive, while giving you that satisfaction of painting something well.
Really succinct video too, thanks for covering that you went back and forth a lot as many artists don't include those details.
Great editing!
The imperfections gradient thing reminded me a lot to the coconut crab tyranid patterns by Catgut
I've got a space marine captain to paint and I was going to just go for a regular glazing technique, but I'm going to do this for sure! Amazing result. Only difference is, I'm going to make mine blue :O
What an absolute king hahah excellent video sir!
Omg! This is exactly what I was looking for!! Great content!
Great content as usual. Good to have you back
Great video! Love the effect 😍 Thanks for sharing
That lava blade looks great! Thanks for the tutorial
Excellent video! I saw this effect some time ago and made my own recipe that is pretty much similar to yours. However, i did not give it as much time and affort as you did. But it is great to see someone as established as you are basically coming to the same conclusion.
One thing i did differently though was using a dark/blackish brown instead of black in the last step. I think that looks a little nicer, even though it does reduce the contrast a little
Perfect! I was just wanting to do this exact thing! Thanks so much for the expert insight.
I gave up on trying to do power weapons well all the other techniques never seemed to work well. but after doing this i was amazed even i could pull off a good ish power weapon so thank you
God I love your videos, such a great painter.
Thanks for all you do.
Great to see you back with a new video. Its been too long!
I like finishing my charred bits off with some dark sea blue. It adds a little something extra to the black
The shape and colours are reminiscent of arched cathedral or chuch windows with stained glass, which would be fantastic for black templars or other such chapters of marines as it would really help bridge the gap in the aesthetics and tie the models together. very nice work.
I tried the molten weapon effect on my last model and really like it, but my attempt wasn’t that visually interesting, so this helps a ton. Thank you :)
Inspired. I’m going to use your guide to paint some armour panels on my legion of the Damned. Great vid 👍
This was really awesome and so unique!
I am going to try this technique on my grey knights!
Looks great, and can probably be easily used for different colors too.
I wish I knew about this when I did my necrons! Super cool style!
Very nice, looking forward to trying this out
Goat Damn this is great.
Really loved the comment on working back and forth, reminds me of the days where we started using agile vs waterfall method🤣 (Not In relation to minie painting;).
That final amplified goofy look was a masterpiece!
Looks amazing, Chris! Thank you good sir 😎
I will be copying this when I get my hands on my Votann. Doesn't seem too time consuming for how good the effect is.
Finally! A new video to watch a thousand times :D
Wow I'm definitely trying this out
This looks awesome!
1) Awsome work as always
2) love the video and i would love some more with this time length
3) I am really not in a possition to give any advice to any painter, especially to you, but i have seen ( in others videos) and tested on my power swords a little better effect just by replacing black with brown on the edges...Just an honest opinion. Thanks again for the cool video ! John Gialidis from Greece.
Dude I always love your videos.
That looks amazing. Thank you for this tutorial, you really broke it down clearly.
Thanks alot for the tutorial. Going to try it out on a chaos Chosen. 😄
I did something similar to this using my airbrush, except I made the blade edge white, so my gradient was the opposite of yours.
And you're right, the black is a very important step to give that charred metal look.
Excellent, thanks for this, I gotta paint some Bloodletter and their hellblades
Started building up an army of adeptus custodes. This technique will definitely help with the swords & spears. 👍
For me, using contrast paints for items like this is so much easier. I am not a great, or even good, painter, but the translucency of the contrast paints makes gradients significantly easier.
Looks great, will be trying the black spot technique later on today. Thanks for the tutorial!
Holy crap I didn't think the kurby krackle technique would work on miniatures but you just proved me wrong. I have to try this
you skipped how you did the wash or whatever with the light over the dark closer to the hilt. I would have loved to have seen that.
Just build couple layers like the first one i show. Literally doesn't matter to blend here because i paint in the white afterwards anyway.
I would LOVE to try this for necrons in green!
It looks so much like the 'digitized/pixelated' effect from the GW products!
I been going by feel when painting my salamanders flame, but this video makes a great reference point
👍👍Looks awesome, very cool effect! Or hot effect 🤔😁 I'm sure Balrog or dragon's fire would love this effect too!
Doing the same method with cyan, royal purple or bright lime green would be super effective too! 👍
Any Skaven or Nighthaunt folks here? 👻⚔️🐀
That looks really great
Great intro! Thanks for this tutorial!
I like it a lot, and it's wonderful to see a painter doing more than just "slap chop." AKA "Prime white and slather it with (crazy expensive) contrast paints and DOESN'T IT LOOK BRILLIANT." That's a trend I wish would go away. Sure, you get your minis on the table nice and quick, but for me, the artistic side of miniatures painting goes out the window with that approach. This is why I liked this video, and thank you for posting it!
This looks amazing
Looks amazing!
Digging the process. I’m still working on 2000 pts of necron using your guide From way back it’s amazing thanks
looks great! I think my Salamanders' swords would look great like this.
Truuuuuuue
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
You always have the best lava 😆❤️!
That looks really great. I was going to do yellow armor for my squats, now I'm wondering if I should do all the armor like this, or if it would drive me crazy painting the whole army like that, but I bet it would look cool
Now I want to try this on some of my slaves to darkness minis...
I just tried following this tutorial. My results weren't as nice as yours, but it still looks pretty sweet.
The use of black kind of reminds me of the comic book technique of Kirby Krackle - you're almost creating negative space on a 3D model. Super cool. Or should I say super HOT? :P
Badass, Trov.
it is nice to see fellow "putting paint in the little hole in the AK Interactive bottle caps" enjoyers
Ccsn u do a video painting alpha legion horus heresy or carcharadons ?
It looks bloody great, but I've always wondered why we paint energy weapons to be cool on the edge and hot at the core - the edge is the bit we'll be hitting them with after all. Maybe it's just what looks cooler. I mean, awesomer.
I guess it just makes more sense to the eye, since the energy emitting part of the sculpt is always at the centre of the blade, or the hilt. You make a good point though, it's certainly been done before - that sword in halo is the first thing that comes to mind. Would certainly be interesting to see, the votann swords are good candidates to try it on!
Also when it strikes the target, that would tend to cool the power weapon, where the contact was. It would be beyond me to pain, but I think physically that is what should happen
It's rule of cool. If you heated up a metal to strike things with, each strike would deform your weapon. In this fictional world, your enemies would just make armor out of the same metal whenever they could because it's not going to cut through itself. They also wouldn't want to wear a suit of molten lava. Having heated weapons makes zero sense. You want them at a normal temperature.
So since we're making weapons that don't make any sense, we make them look bitchin' as shit.
@@nekrataali Votann use blades of plasma, no metal involved. Power swords aren't simply heated up either, they emit a field of energy surrounding the blade - though what that "energy" is, who knows.
@@clinch4402 seeing as they're called power swords, it must be "power energy". Simple physics really. 😉 😉
I just think it's was interesting that we tend to make an aesthetic choice to portray the edge as *less* "power energy fiery". It still looks kewl as fook, which is all that matters, but hot edges might look kewl as fook too - maybe even kewler.
I had good experiences with adding white ashes on the black areas. That way it looks more like something burned on the blade.
Yeah that's a cool effect, I do it now and then! Here I deliberately didn't go for that for more striking contrast.
Yay a new video ! :D
Damn, impressive!
Great job mate. But we need more content from you mate!
Ikr
Amazing.
This looks excellent, thank you! Curious to hear though if you think this technique is applicable to larger models/blades as well, think treelord big, or if it's better suited for smaller ones?
Great video :)
I think something similar will look good on Gotrek's axe.
This is how I do power swords for salamanders, just not as well lol. Love the technique.
I do love this method.
Could this be done with engines?
Yes, absolutely
Hey Trov! Very nice video, and a great tip! I have a small Khorne army on my table which means there are a total of 63 big daemonic swords I have to get through. Any tips on how to make them look magic and deadly while keeping the time spent on each of them to no more than 10-12 minutes or so? Thx!
I am totally stealing this for my Salamanders, and now LoV haha
Ah this will be great for my votann. Although I’m doing the orange league so maybe an orange sword isn’t so good
For orange armor i would totally switch the colors for blue and do the same thing!
@@trovarion sounds like a plan!
I think í am going to try on my Black templars
It reminds me of the Kirby crackle from Jack Kirby's art in comics
Sich einfach mal von der BRD-Flagge inspirieren lassen. :D
Ich glaube, so richtig kommt der Effekt zur Geltung, wenn auf dem Griff etwas OSL ist.
This is kinda standard in the hobby. What I’d love to hear from you is does it make sense to finish with a glaze of say yellow? It feels a little matte for a flaming weapon.
Either way thanks for the great videos and I’m grabbing a T!
0:11 anyone knows if he made a painting video on that specific warcry scions of the flame mini?
It's on my patreon.
This is amazing, what are the colours used for that green handle, its perfect!
Thank you again! Another cool technique in a simple tutorial. I came to the same spot with power weapons, sort of like a superheated weapon from Fallout, however, I typically left the blend from yellow to orange to black smooth and stippled black and dark brown in last for the variations in heat. I'll try your random variations next time, it looks so much more vibrant. Also, I usually blend dark brown in between the red and black, I don't know if that hurts or helps me, but straight to black is very good looking. The last thing I do is add a yellow/white wash around the bright spots on adjacent surfaces for a little OSL, looks like you did that too, or did you use the overpaint of white to achieve that? Great video as usual, keep them coming.
But what if you added a white highlight around the entire cutting edge? As if the thinnest part of the blade was the hottest because of its relative inability to transfer heat?
ganz geil mit dem schwarzen rand. merk ich mir :)
i love this figures. Whats their name?
How about Astra Militarium Commisar power sword? Can I do the same?
Why not?
Great video. Not a huge fan of the effect, but appreciate the quality instruction
Looks awesome. Not sure it would be a very useful weapon in practice.
Stopped reading after "looks awesome".
I've stripped my orks about 50 times now. Need to improve :) Nice effect.
thank you.
I wish you’d shown the finished model at the end?
I only painted the sword?
@@trovarion I mean I’d like to see what it looks like on the finalised model?
To see how the sword looks against a fully painted mini?
Great job, either way 😁
Oooo what are those glasses?
Just “F’n” Bitchin!!! Thanks so much!!
Nice
Love the tutorial and the result looks really cool! What I don't get is the logic behind the design. If I had an energy sword that I want to cut into stuff with, why would I want the edges to be the coolest part? What good would a hot middle do me here? Would I not want the edges to be the hottest part so it could cut better?
What I am trying to say is: Somebody please test if it still looks as cool when the hot and cold parts are reversed. I am not a good enough painter to try it and I am very curious. ;)
Logic behind it: Rule of cool.
@@trovarion Fair enough as it is really cool. :)