I feel very stupid now, I machined a complete clutch from solid, but using the socket/hex is a way, way, way better solution! Well explained, thank you!
Stefan, I was very impressed with your clutch build & would have probably done the same thing if I knew more about how to use my rotary table; however, when I saw the socket arrangement I felt that even I could do that. Thanks for watching.
MrPragmaticLee This is a superb video, as such I know what I am making for my mill this weekend. Thank you for making this precise and easy to understand video. You are a legend, Thank you once again :-)
I am just about to start into building a power feed for my 3990 mini mill. This was a great help. My only suggestion would have been to put the clutch handle on the side so that you could feed longer pieces in but everything else is so slick I'll be using most of it for my build. Thanks again for showing it
This is what I needed to solve the puzzles of building a power feed for my Benchmaster mill. I've found all the same bits and pieces online. The bonus is that all the manufactured parts you need, power supply, motor control, gear motor, and limit switches can be purchased for under $30. Thank you.
you prolly dont care but if you guys are stoned like me during the covid times you can watch all of the latest movies and series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my gf for the last couple of weeks :)
I really appreciate guys like you taking time to share stuff like this. I bought a harbor freight mill and bought a regular power feeder off e bay for $100.00. Well it wont work. Lots of old computers and bought a speed control and right angle 12 volt thanks again
Thank you for such a detailed video. I tried to buy a ready made power feed for my Seig mill but non are available for my model. Even with my very limited engineering experience I think I will be able to cobble something together. Watched your video by stopping and starting plus heaps of notes and rough drawings. Going to try and use a brushless cordless drill motor and electronics which seems on the surface to have all the features needed. Thanks again Mike Tasmania, Australia
Mr. Lee, enjoyed your video. Just wondered if you have a video of your DRO build and installation? Looking forward to your motor control and power supply video.
Would add a ball detent at either end of the clutch engagement travel just to be sure it doesn't vibrate out of engagement while doing heavy milling - looks like it should be an easy adaptation job John
Very nice!! I have the same mini mill, could you please say me the ratio of the reductor ? 1:100 , 1:200 ? Thank you in advance, Alberto.(or how many Rpm you have as output on table shaft !! )
nice conversion...food for thought friend has some hospital bed motors with controls 120 volt and a few hundred lbs torque..yr video should be set do have limiters....micro switches.to limit travel..???
if i was to set food in a place with machines wearing light coloured pants like youres i be looking like i been working all day in a coalmine in 10 seconds flat good idea about the disengagement of the power feed , might use it on a welding manipulator
I noticed you have what looks like a 4by 4 block under the vertical support does the mill react to it at all,is it more rigid? and its a great idea,for larger parts....thanks again for the video........
Actually, it's a 2" high X 4" X 6" solid block of aluminum. Gives me 2" more Z - I haven't noticed any lose of rigidity. Note, this is a fixed column mill.
Hi Lee, I'm one of your subscribers and want to know what size vise you are using and where you purchased it?, I purchased a 4" from Shars but it is to big for the Harbor Freight mill, thank you. I am also in the process of adding the power feed to the mill, great videos you put up, keep up the good work, thank you.
Thank you for all your video's. They are appreciated by many. I have one question (for now), In your opinion... Is a four inch precision milling vise too large for a mini milling machine?
Simple my the best diy power feed video on TH-cam. You did a great job covering everything step by step, as well in your other videos. I got the motor and controller ordered, I had one question. Is there a way to get a bit more speed out of the power seat motor so there is a bit more range in speed? I couldn't think of a way considering the pwm is already at 100% on. I am assuming there is a resistor somewhere in the mix, maybe a lower resistance would would let it spin faster?
Don't know of any simple way to speed up the motor other than feeding it more than 12vdc which probably wouldn't be a good idea. It's actually pretty fast though for this size mill. Good luck with your build and thanks for the comment!
+Lee thanks for the reply Lee! I have everything to start my install, just got the rest of the parts today. I don't have a lathe to turn the shafts, but I just came across a video by Tom zelickman? on mill turning and it looks like I'll have no problem turning it in the mill since I have some inserted lathe tools laying around.
great video , i really enjoyed it I have watched it a couple of times already........I think i'll do this to my mill drill l, what is the type of motor you are using , it looks like it is automotive.......I like this idea,....thanks for the video.......Ray
Good morning, I would like to make the transmission like the one you did, I have your own mini mill machine: I don't understand how the gearbox shaft is made, how does it not slip inside the square hole of the long bushing? I have a reducer with a flattened shaft, I could put a headless screw but the problem is that the bushes are hardened so how do I drill? For this reason I ask you how your reducer shaft is made. Thank you !!! Alberto.
Lee, I love your videos. Thank you so much !!! I have learned a lot and they have been very helpful in my learning to be a home shop machinist. I have questions about your auxiliary jaws on your mini mill vise. How tall are they? Do they have to be ground flat all sides to be true to your moving & fixed jaws. Thank you...
Perhaps I missed you stating this but is that motor's shaft NOT round?? Im confused as to how it can rotate the socket. The Motor shaft I guess is square??
very cool mod. looking at you mill, have you added a block to increase the height of the column? if so how has that affected rigidity? I have thought about doing the same.
Yes, that is a 2" extension - good catch. I've not noticed any loss of rigidity. Also notice this is a fixed column which is inherently more rigid than the leaning column.
was thinking of using the harbor freight 20 dollar drill.. it eliminates the need for a gearbox, a power supply, a reversing switch , etc.. id just take all the internals out and make a dashboard with a longer lever to gradually engage the variable speed because its wayy to fast if I accidentally hit full throttle.
The motor shaft was milled down to 3/8" and the drive end of the socket slides back & forth on it. There's a short video just prior to this one that shows the assembly without the cover on it. Might be easier to understand if you watch it as well. Thanks for watching.
Off subject but I just ordered a solid coumn and larger table for my HF mini mill from Little Machine Shop at Cabin Fever as well as their 2" column spacer which I see you also have. Did you notice a difference in the column rigidity with the spacer ?
@@ChristopherJones16 it was definitely worth buying. The increased Z height makes it more useful and it’s more rigid than the standard set up. I can take cuts with larger and mills and better accuracy with less chatter
@@brandontscheschlog That's great to hear! I didnt even notice the spacer till I saw your comment. I went back and re-watched all the X2 mini mill videos ive watched to see if they had the spacer and no one had the spacer which is crazy since that 2" is a nice addition! I didnt even notice that LMS sold them! That's why I had to ask you if it was worth buying since I didnt see others with it. I'm starting to think not many people even know about it.
Colton Bumstead Jon, that is a shield for the X axis DRO scale. At the very start of the video you can see the scale for the Z axis. Same thing on the X & Y with a piece of aluminum angle as a shield. Thanks for stopping by.
Super great video! thanks, i have the same motor, did you remove the shaft from the motor to machine it for the square drive? I removed the covers and I see that the gear is attached to the motor , and I see a bolt on the other side.. is that the only thing holding the shaft? Thanks
Manny Yabar I machined the shaft with it still attached to the motor. Of course I was very careful to clean & regrease the gear afterwards. Glad you enjoyed it.
G'day Lee you did a bloody good job of that feed motor, I would love to put one on my SX 2.7 mill. However what do you reckon the cost to do it yourself was, when considering the proper motor clutch set up for mine is about $500 Australian. Love your channel I have subscribed regards John Tasmania Australia
Regrettably, I watch no video filled with ads. Let's face it, I either watch the video without disrupting ads and enjoy it, OR, watch ads on TV, thousands of repetitive ads on TV. To be cut and forced to watch ads on TH-cam instead of the actual video is like being fed baked beans everyday till you get sick of it. And when you get sick of baked beans, what do you usually do? You stay away from them, right? That's exactly what I do, repetitive ads are like baked beans, forced, shoved and thrown at you exactly like the days of orphaned children eating in Convents during and after WW2. Everyday, baked beans and bread with no changes in sight were fed to kids after school. Kids then got so sick in flatulence, passing smelly winds at school and home that Convents couldn't do much about food changes because other foods were becoming scarse. The same is going on with TH-cam. It was a free to all video site a few years ago. Now, like the baked beans dilemma, TH-cam is becoming worse than television stations. The best thing you can do, is exactly what I do, don't watch what you have already seen and don't watch those that have ads at the start, at the end and in between, unless you are a fool enough to pay extra $$$ for ads-free video. You need to bear in mind that ads-free video is undisrupted, saves time, get a fair idea what the video is all about and... learn something. Ads disrupt all that, in both video media and televisions. Plus a film/movie on these online media and television stretches the film longer and keeps you glued in front of your PC/TV longer than necessary, making you stay late because you want to finish watching the movie, film, sport, whatever, and go to bed late to begin your new day tired, drowsy, sleepy, moody, angry, can't stand jokers, noise, etc. And then you begin to argue/fight with your colleague, your wife, your friends, here at work, or at the pub, or at home, then hit an extra booze at home and watch TV or TH-cam videos and repeat the same cycle again and again, without ever thinking why, how, is this the life you want? Those TV stations and of course Google who runs TH-cam, know that you are the weakest link when it comes to consumerism, so they can shove you as many ads they care to shove without a care in the world that you need to get up for work in the morning, you need to stay alert on the job, you need to be productive to earn the good old dollar. They don't care about your health and mental state. But, it's you, the lesser brained fool who can't just say no. It's always you who loves to do what smart men avoid to do. For instance, why watch TH-cam repeats when you already have seen it and you also know that the video clip is filled with ads? Can you take that into consideration? Probably not. We are doomed in an ocean of ads.
I was very particular in milling each of the 4 stand offs to the same length. I still had to shim one of them with a nylon washer. If you look real close during the reassembly, I'm looking around for the washer. At around 34 minutes you can see the washer laying on top of the lcd display. 😄 thanks for viewing.
No I was talking about the motor shaft that looks threaded I think those are round when you get them. Did you mill all sides to make a square 3/8 and were you able to remove the shaft to mill it? Thanks.
+cabmaker yes, it was threaded from the factory. I milled the sides flat with the shaft still in the gear box - just sat it on parallels in the mill vise.
Thanks, I'm loving it too. Only thing I've changed is that the engagement slide is now on the face of the housing instead of the top. Being on top put it in the way of clamping down long material on the table. Thanks for the comment.
I feel very stupid now, I machined a complete clutch from solid, but using the socket/hex is a way, way, way better solution! Well explained, thank you!
Stefan, I was very impressed with your clutch build & would have probably done the same thing if I knew more about how to use my rotary table; however, when I saw the socket arrangement I felt that even I could do that. Thanks for watching.
MrPragmaticLee This is a superb video, as such I know what I am making for my mill this weekend. Thank you for making this precise and easy to understand video.
You are a legend, Thank you once again :-)
I am just about to start into building a power feed for my 3990 mini mill. This was a great help. My only suggestion would have been to put the clutch handle on the side so that you could feed longer pieces in but everything else is so slick I'll be using most of it for my build. Thanks again for showing it
This is what I needed to solve the puzzles of building a power feed for my Benchmaster mill. I've found all the same bits and pieces online. The bonus is that all the manufactured parts you need, power supply, motor control, gear motor, and limit switches can be purchased for under $30. Thank you.
i've watched your instructional video twice. Thank You for all your effort to to be so concise and thorough showing us the pitfalls we can expect.
you prolly dont care but if you guys are stoned like me during the covid times you can watch all of the latest movies and series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my gf for the last couple of weeks :)
@Elon Kamden Yup, I've been using InstaFlixxer for since november myself :D
I really appreciate guys like you taking time to share stuff like this. I bought a harbor freight mill and bought a regular power feeder off e bay for $100.00. Well it wont work. Lots of old computers and bought a speed control and right angle 12 volt thanks again
Thank you for such a detailed video. I tried to buy a ready made power feed for my Seig mill but non are available for my model. Even with my very limited engineering
experience I think I will be able to cobble something together. Watched your video by stopping and starting plus heaps of notes and rough drawings. Going to try and use a brushless
cordless drill motor and electronics which seems on the surface to have all the features needed. Thanks again Mike Tasmania, Australia
Outstanding! You include enough detail for us to duplicate your work with a different motor or socket. Thank you so much!
Thank You for the outstanding explanation of the socket clutch and reasons behind each feature.
Nick said it best... Amazing tutorial! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Thanks
Nice job. Great ideas I have used on mine. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks for a very inspiring video. Turning my mini mill into a CNC Your clutch construction as well as the other parts will be of great help.
Excellent video great idea will set about making one ASAP.
Great video well explained, like the idea of just the main shaft going back an fourth thanx
thanks for the breakdown. I was thinking something very similar for mine and seeing yours refined most of my ideas. looking forward to more videos.
Great idea. May have to barrow some of that for mine. Thanks for sharing
Beg, borrow, steal - whatever it takes. :-) Thanks for stopping by.
very nice, simple design Lee this will do me just fine, a project I have put off for way too long! Cheers.
howder1951 I couldn't imagine either of my mills not having this. My old shoulders can't take a lot of repetitive cranking.
I have to say it is a good lookin shop........congrats....
Thank you so much for taking the time to record and post your great work.
Cheers
Nice job man
Very elegant design and well explained. Thank you!
i have a RF-30 mill, did very similar, power feed. great job! Joel in Baltimore, Md
Really loving your videos Lee
Mr. Lee, enjoyed your video. Just wondered if you have a video of your DRO build and installation?
Looking forward to your motor control and power supply video.
Nice .could you have put the in.out lever sticking out the front and not the top so you could mount longrr parts on the table
Yep, sure could - in fact I moved it to the front after seeing the error of my ways. :-)
Nice video, can you tell me where to get the motor and power feed box.
Would add a ball detent at either end of the clutch engagement travel just to be sure it doesn't vibrate out of engagement while doing heavy milling - looks like it should be an easy adaptation job
John
Well planned and executed.
Nice, where did you get the long square shaft on the motor ?
Thanks
really good of you to post this video thanks superb
Hi I’m just wondering how the motor shaft drives the socket when there was clearance.
very nice mod. explained very well. now...I gotta go find some parts. lol.
Awesome job. Thank you for posting
Aaron Gary Glad you liked it.
Very nice!! I have the same mini mill, could you please say me the ratio of the reductor ? 1:100 , 1:200 ? Thank you in advance, Alberto.(or how many Rpm you have as output on table shaft !! )
nice conversion...food for thought friend has some hospital bed motors with controls 120 volt and a few hundred lbs torque..yr video should be set do have limiters....micro switches.to limit travel..???
if i was to set food in a place with machines wearing light coloured pants like youres i be looking like i been working all day in a coalmine in 10 seconds flat
good idea about the disengagement of the power feed , might use it on a welding manipulator
Great work !
Did you ever find a n electrical socket for your motor?
That's a great table feed!
I noticed you have what looks like a 4by 4 block under the vertical support does the mill react to it at all,is it more rigid? and its a great idea,for larger parts....thanks again for the video........
Actually, it's a 2" high X 4" X 6" solid block of aluminum. Gives me 2" more Z - I haven't noticed any lose of rigidity. Note, this is a fixed column mill.
thanks for the input.....Ray
Hi Lee, I'm one of your subscribers and want to know what size vise you are using and where you purchased it?, I purchased a 4" from Shars but it is to big for the Harbor Freight mill, thank you. I am also in the process of adding the power feed to the mill, great videos you put up, keep up the good work, thank you.
Thank you for all your video's. They are appreciated by many. I have one question (for now), In your opinion... Is a four inch precision milling vise too large for a mini milling machine?
As big as possible!
As you can hole a small piece in a big vice... But you cant hold a big piece in a small vice!!
David in England.
Verry nice, man!!!
Simple my the best diy power feed video on TH-cam. You did a great job covering everything step by step, as well in your other videos. I got the motor and controller ordered, I had one question. Is there a way to get a bit more speed out of the power seat motor so there is a bit more range in speed? I couldn't think of a way considering the pwm is already at 100% on. I am assuming there is a resistor somewhere in the mix, maybe a lower resistance would would let it spin faster?
Don't know of any simple way to speed up the motor other than feeding it more than 12vdc which probably wouldn't be a good idea. It's actually pretty fast though for this size mill. Good luck with your build and thanks for the comment!
+Lee thanks for the reply Lee! I have everything to start my install, just got the rest of the parts today. I don't have a lathe to turn the shafts, but I just came across a video by Tom zelickman? on mill turning and it looks like I'll have no problem turning it in the mill since I have some inserted lathe tools laying around.
great video , i really enjoyed it I have watched it a couple of times already........I think i'll do this to my mill drill l, what is the type of motor you are using , it looks like it is automotive.......I like this idea,....thanks for the video.......Ray
Ray, check out my other videos. I have a video on the motor & control and a video on the power supply (from an old computer).
nicely done
Good morning,
I would like to make the transmission like the one you did, I have your own mini mill machine: I don't understand how the gearbox shaft is made, how does it not slip inside the square hole of the long bushing? I have a reducer with a flattened shaft, I could put a headless screw but the problem is that the bushes are hardened so how do I drill? For this reason I ask you how your reducer shaft is made.
Thank you !!! Alberto.
Now I know what to do with that wiper motor I have laying around. I have a X2 based CNC mill, but also have a stock G0704 that could use a power feed.
It should work great. Thanks for stopping by.
Is the 4 round stock slides metal or aluminum and what diameter? Thanks for any help.
Can you please tell me the style of motor you use for the miniill power feed traverse.
Could you please tell me how the clutch move if the motor shaft is not connected to it. I hadn't notice and I am about to finish my proyect.
Lee, I love your videos. Thank you so much !!! I have learned a lot and they have been very helpful in my learning to be a home shop machinist.
I have questions about your auxiliary jaws on your mini mill vise. How tall are they? Do they have to be ground flat all sides to be true to your moving & fixed jaws. Thank you...
Perhaps I missed you stating this but is that motor's shaft NOT round?? Im confused as to how it can rotate the socket. The Motor shaft I guess is square??
I milled flats on each side of the motor shaft.
@@MrPragmaticLee Thanks for such a speedy response, and for posting such a clever project.
very cool mod. looking at you mill, have you added a block to increase the height of the column? if so how has that affected rigidity? I have thought about doing the same.
Yes, that is a 2" extension - good catch. I've not noticed any loss of rigidity. Also notice this is a fixed column which is inherently more rigid than the leaning column.
was thinking of using the harbor freight 20 dollar drill.. it eliminates the need for a gearbox, a power supply, a reversing switch , etc.. id just take all the internals out and make a dashboard with a longer lever to gradually engage the variable speed because its wayy to fast if I accidentally hit full throttle.
I did not see how you "attach" the motor shaft to the clutch mechanism. How was that done? Thanks!!
The motor shaft was milled down to 3/8" and the drive end of the socket slides back & forth on it. There's a short video just prior to this one that shows the assembly without the cover on it. Might be easier to understand if you watch it as well. Thanks for watching.
Very Neat
What motor is that? The first one I got was way bigger than I wanted. That one looks perfect.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
grate idea too bad it did not have drawing plans and a parts list it would so much better thank you Richard Westerfield
Thanks much MrP!!!
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for stopping by.
Nice job! What power supply do you use for that power seat motor? How many amps? Thanks
I'm going from memory here, but I'm pretty sure the motor is rated at 2 amps and the power supply at 8 amps.
Off subject but I just ordered a solid coumn and larger table for my HF mini mill from Little Machine Shop at Cabin Fever as well as their 2" column spacer which I see you also have. Did you notice a difference in the column rigidity with the spacer ?
How did that spacer work out for you? Is it worth buying?
@@ChristopherJones16 it was definitely worth buying. The increased Z height makes it more useful and it’s more rigid than the standard set up. I can take cuts with larger and mills and better accuracy with less chatter
@@brandontscheschlog That's great to hear! I didnt even notice the spacer till I saw your comment. I went back and re-watched all the X2 mini mill videos ive watched to see if they had the spacer and no one had the spacer which is crazy since that 2" is a nice addition! I didnt even notice that LMS sold them! That's why I had to ask you if it was worth buying since I didnt see others with it. I'm starting to think not many people even know about it.
how is clutch attached to motor
what is the long bar behind the table? very nice job making the power feed! my X2 needs ok be if them😀
Respect Always
jon
Colton Bumstead Jon, that is a shield for the X axis DRO scale. At the very start of the video you can see the scale for the Z axis. Same thing on the X & Y with a piece of aluminum angle as a shield. Thanks for stopping by.
Super great video! thanks, i have the same motor, did you remove the shaft from the motor to machine it for the square drive? I removed the covers and I see that the gear is attached to the motor , and I see a bolt on the other side.. is that the only thing holding the shaft?
Thanks
Manny Yabar I machined the shaft with it still attached to the motor. Of course I was very careful to clean & regrease the gear afterwards. Glad you enjoyed it.
I don't understand how your motor shaft is connected if your soccer moves back and forth
G'day Lee you did a bloody good job of that feed motor, I would love to put one on my SX 2.7 mill. However what do you reckon the cost to do it yourself was, when considering the proper motor clutch set up for mine is about $500 Australian. Love your channel I have subscribed regards John Tasmania Australia
Motor is a Dorman 924-553 Power Seat Motor
hi lee can you tell me where you got the motor or the specs thanks john
eBay search for 12 vdc power seat gear motor. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182717157051
Where did you get that motor. I am making power feed for my mini mill now. That motor looks like what I want.
Anthony Brown www.allelectronics.com/item/dcm-697/12vdc-right-angle-gearhead-motor-with-worm-drive/1.html
Thanks ...love your videos
Regrettably, I watch no video filled with ads. Let's face it, I either watch the video without disrupting ads and enjoy it, OR, watch ads on TV, thousands of repetitive ads on TV.
To be cut and forced to watch ads on TH-cam instead of the actual video is like being fed baked beans everyday till you get sick of it. And when you get sick of baked beans, what do you usually do? You stay away from them, right?
That's exactly what I do, repetitive ads are like baked beans, forced, shoved and thrown at you exactly like the days of orphaned children eating in Convents during and after WW2.
Everyday, baked beans and bread with no changes in sight were fed to kids after school. Kids then got so sick in flatulence, passing smelly winds at school and home that Convents couldn't do much about food changes because other foods were becoming scarse.
The same is going on with TH-cam. It was a free to all video site a few years ago. Now, like the baked beans dilemma, TH-cam is becoming worse than television stations. The best thing you can do, is exactly what I do, don't watch what you have already seen and don't watch those that have ads at the start, at the end and in between, unless you are a fool enough to pay extra $$$ for ads-free video. You need to bear in mind that ads-free video is undisrupted, saves time, get a fair idea what the video is all about and... learn something. Ads disrupt all that, in both video media and televisions. Plus a film/movie on these online media and television stretches the film longer and keeps you glued in front of your PC/TV longer than necessary, making you stay late because you want to finish watching the movie, film, sport, whatever, and go to bed late to begin your new day tired, drowsy, sleepy, moody, angry, can't stand jokers, noise, etc. And then you begin to argue/fight with your colleague, your wife, your friends, here at work, or at the pub, or at home, then hit an extra booze at home and watch TV or TH-cam videos and repeat the same cycle again and again, without ever thinking why, how, is this the life you want? Those TV stations and of course Google who runs TH-cam, know that you are the weakest link when it comes to consumerism, so they can shove you as many ads they care to shove without a care in the world that you need to get up for work in the morning, you need to stay alert on the job, you need to be productive to earn the good old dollar. They don't care about your health and mental state.
But, it's you, the lesser brained fool who can't just say no. It's always you who loves to do what smart men avoid to do. For instance, why watch TH-cam repeats when you already have seen it and you also know that the video clip is filled with ads? Can you take that into consideration? Probably not. We are doomed in an ocean of ads.
What power supply are you using ? great video
Manny Yabar I used a power supply salvaged from a computer. I have a video on that - check it out. Thanks for stopping by.
how did you square off the motor shaft?
I was very particular in milling each of the 4 stand offs to the same length. I still had to shim one of them with a nylon washer. If you look real close during the reassembly, I'm looking around for the washer. At around 34 minutes you can see the washer laying on top of the lcd display. 😄 thanks for viewing.
No I was talking about the motor shaft that looks threaded I think those are round when you get them. Did you mill all sides to make a square 3/8 and were you able to remove the shaft to mill it? Thanks.
+cabmaker yes, it was threaded from the factory. I milled the sides flat with the shaft still in the gear box - just sat it on parallels in the mill vise.
And I have the same motor and power supply as you do
i love it
Thanks, I'm loving it too. Only thing I've changed is that the engagement slide is now on the face of the housing instead of the top. Being on top put it in the way of clamping down long material on the table. Thanks for the comment.
👍
to me your motor would have to move back and forth or did I miss something in the video
square shank on the motor drive lets the socket slide while still driving the socket ,
My slowest speed that it will turn the
mill is only 17%
To much waffling, got fed up halfway through and turned it off ?
Maybe you should look into something that suits your attention span better