Very Cool. Can't wait to see part 2. Been looking to see what others are doing for upgrading their stereo system. I'm in the process of upgrading the dash, door (bass) & tweeters in the doors using hepaking adapters with Alpine DP Series speakers. Just removed my 10" NVX sub and replaced it with a 12" prefab box from Down4Sound using my 500W RMS NVX mono amp. When I got my M3LR I had the hansshow upgrade that upgrades the subwoofer and adds 2 dsp's. sounds ok but I'm sure it will be much better. Thanks for sharing
I have a few questions if you have the time! Background - I was using a RF 500.1 with LC2iPro trigger on audio signal and using it for remote turn on. It worked great, so I bought an audiocontrol 800.1 and took the LC2i out of the mix. The second I did that it tripped the efuse and I got the dreaded shutting off message. So now im looking into doing a a delayed start with a resister for pre charge. 1) Do you need to take the resistor out of the circuit or was that just something optional? I can't seem to find a valid reason other than it becomes useless once the 200amp relay starts. 2) And this one is pure theory but with some backing but cant we just use the actual power from the penthouse to trigger the system relays? Meaning in my testing the penthouse shuts off when the car turns off... cant we just use that as the trigger source as well? 3) What time delay (in seconds) did you decide to go with? The crazy part for me is RF SHOULD trigger the the message as the audio control but the audiocontrol amp triggers the message even with the remote turn on not even plugged in. So maybe its an amp design thing but I think some amps dont even allow a charge up till the remote source triggers it. Its strange to think about it tbh. I have more testing to do but that seems to be the case given the audiocontrol triggers the efuse even when not asked to turn on yet while the RF does not. Maybe the caps are just that much bigger and I was "getting away" with it but still interesting.
Very Cool. Can't wait to see part 2. Been looking to see what others are doing for upgrading their stereo system. I'm in the process of upgrading the dash, door (bass) & tweeters in the doors using hepaking adapters with Alpine DP Series speakers. Just removed my 10" NVX sub and replaced it with a 12" prefab box from Down4Sound using my 500W RMS NVX mono amp. When I got my M3LR I had the hansshow upgrade that upgrades the subwoofer and adds 2 dsp's. sounds ok but I'm sure it will be much better. Thanks for sharing
I have a few questions if you have the time!
Background - I was using a RF 500.1 with LC2iPro trigger on audio signal and using it for remote turn on. It worked great, so I bought an audiocontrol 800.1 and took the LC2i out of the mix. The second I did that it tripped the efuse and I got the dreaded shutting off message. So now im looking into doing a a delayed start with a resister for pre charge.
1) Do you need to take the resistor out of the circuit or was that just something optional? I can't seem to find a valid reason other than it becomes useless once the 200amp relay starts.
2) And this one is pure theory but with some backing but cant we just use the actual power from the penthouse to trigger the system relays? Meaning in my testing the penthouse shuts off when the car turns off... cant we just use that as the trigger source as well?
3) What time delay (in seconds) did you decide to go with?
The crazy part for me is RF SHOULD trigger the the message as the audio control but the audiocontrol amp triggers the message even with the remote turn on not even plugged in. So maybe its an amp design thing but I think some amps dont even allow a charge up till the remote source triggers it. Its strange to think about it tbh. I have more testing to do but that seems to be the case given the audiocontrol triggers the efuse even when not asked to turn on yet while the RF does not. Maybe the caps are just that much bigger and I was "getting away" with it but still interesting.
Very nice! Did you have to change the input voltage jumpers in the helix from 16v max to 32v max?
No, since on the SR+ you’re only getting signal from the up front computer which is 10v p-p and there’s no factor sub amp to pull signal from.
Did you make that panel?
very sorry what are the quick connector you used are called i really like them and look very oem too
Those are called Deutsch or DT connectors. You can buy generic versions of them on amazon. I'll post links in my description.