That was fantastic Jeff. Thank you so much. I did my daughter's 2015 GLA250. I just want to reiterate what some else commented on that I missed that might have been obvious to most people but it wasn't to me and it wasn't mentioned in the video. Once I took the two bolts out of the caliper I expected the whole thing to come out easily like your video but it didn't. It finally dawned on me that this car isn't like the other older cars I did brake jobs on and has an electronic parking break that I had to release. Once I did that the rest of the job was exactly how you laid it out. This might save someone else a bit of heartache. Thanks again for a great video.
Thanks for the video.Just did my wifes rear brakes on 2018 gla 250. New pads came with pad wear sensors but there are no sensors on the rear and didn't see sensors on this vehicle either.
Release parking brake and insert stoper on both front wheels to avoid car rolling either forward or backsword 1. Loosen the lug bolts (you need ground resistance to turn the bolts, lesson learnt) 2. Put the EBP in pad replacement mode to disengage the caliper piston procedure: go inside the car and make sure all doors closed and push Start button on time, and toggle the back button until it goes to the mileage, first press and hold phone call button and then press and hold OK button at the same for 5 seconds. The cluster shows up vehicle DATA, move down to pad replacement position and hit OK and the cluster shows up: to move to fitting position and press Ok and get out car 3. Raise and remove the tire 4. remove the caliper and pad, push back piston with tool Replace the pads and reassemble the caliper on to the rotor (grease the retaining bolts, wear indicator, etc.) 5. Pump brakes until you feel the resistance 6. Reengage the EBP (similar to #2 above) 7. Yes of course, mount the tire and lower the vehicle 8. Repeat on the other side :)
Jeff, I want to say thank you, thank you, and THANK YOU! You were very thorough, and it made changing my brakes so easy. Well, for my husband. Lol, the only issue we had was getting the vehicle data on the screen. Well, after 10 minutes, we were successful. We had to pull the starter button out and use the key to turn on the ignition. Oh my, the dollars that were SAVED! Thanks again, with plenty of likes.
Excellent video.... I tried to do the brake job without watching any videos (I am good and have tools), but when I couldn't push back the piston, I thought it was frozen and gave up. Today I decided to search for it in TH-cam and I found this tutorial..... excellent, after releasing the e-brake everything was easy... Thank you..!
If the piston doesn't wind back all the way the first time. Re engage caliper but put something in front of piston so it wont wind out by using old pads, after doing so a few times then the piston will wind all the way back and the caliper will sit on bracket nicely. Easiest way was by using an diag computer
So the right sequence would be: 1. Loosen the lug bolts (you need ground resistance to turn the bolts, lesson learnt ) 2. Put the EBP in pad replacement mode to disengage the caliper piston 3. Raise and remove the tire 4. Replace the pads and reassemble the caliper on to the rotor (grease the retaining bolts, wear indicator, etc.) 5. Pump brakes until you feel the resistance 6. Reengage the EBP (similar to #2 above) 7. Yes of course, mount the tire and lower the vehicle 8. Repeat on the other side :) Thoughts?
I have caliber off and it didn’t go to chance mode, i put wire from caliber to brake disk and then it works. Calider needs a ground connection caliper/car👍
Unfortunately this does not apply to a 2017 GLA 250. The rear calipers are very different so you do need an 18mm inverted to remove the complete carrier and caliper.
Good explanation but let me give you an advice: do not activate the brake service mode after removing the caliper. If accidentally you undo the service mode, you will end up with the piston being pushed completely out. That error can easily be done, believe me. Despite I'm aware of it I wouldn´t swear I would never do it ;-)
I have the same vehicle and am currently in the process of replacing my rotors and pads. I started twisting the caliper piston back in without putting it in maintenance mode. What should I do now? Thank you.
@@aquacbd6718 Test the EPB. If it still works normanlly you can restart the procedure. If it is not working normaly, you will need to disassemble the caliper for repair. If you don't feal confident to do it, probably gettig a replacement one from a scrap yard would be a cheap good solution. Probably the last choice is the best and easiest.
@@aquacbd6718 NOO! Don't activate EPB with the caliper out! Never! If you activate the EPB with the caliper out, its motor will run until the piston pops out! The EPB stops to tighten the pads by monithoring the current rise trough the motor. If the piston doesn't encounter oposition, it will not stop. To make any test, reassemble the old pads and caliper back in place. Hopefully it will be still fine and you can restart the procedure. If that´s the case, put the car on pad service mode before removing the caliper and don´t touch the buttons untill you finished both wheels. Before exiting the brake service mode, hit the brake pedal to tighten padt to the rotor. Only after that you should exit service mode.
Should you only engage the maintenance mode for the rear brakes once and change both sides (driver/passenger)? Or Do you engage and disengage maintenance mode for each side?
I definitely watched this too late. I compressed the piston before releasing the brakes like you showed. Do I need to replace the caliper or the actuator or both?
James: you clearly don't undestand what the motor does on the rear brakes. Better trust that service to someone who does. The answaer is no. On fronts you can just push the piston in, is purelly hidraulic.
Cláudio Nogueira already installed front and rear myself after someone replied with a simple no 4 months ago that I don’t need to set that for the front. yes I clearly understand since the setting only adjust the pistons to the rear when I have the wheels physically off and I can see for myself. but thanks for coming late to the party.
Good Evening Jeff, if you don’t mind can you tell me the name of the $5 part used to push the caliper in? I was told that I’d need some fancy kit that’s made for this car. Thank you for your help with this very detailed and direct video.
I have a quick question. Hope it doesn’t seem stupid but when I took off the brakes they seem to be in fairly good condition, but I’m receiving the message “check pad wear”. Being that the message is saying “check” isn’t necessarily saying I need new pads right?? I’m really confused lol…
@cynthiaglaspie5805 blimey, this was a long time ago! If I remember correctly it was a right fiddle. The rubber gator had to come off and the piston would push back in. The problem was getting the gator back on the caliper and the piston. Took me a while. Then of course it needed bleeding again. Good luck
Unfortunately I’m here because I did in fact hit the button twice and my piston popped out of the caliper, is there a way to solve this without buying new calipers?
Hey, do you know where the fuel tank pressure sensor is for 2014 CLA 250 ? My check engine light is on with P24D8 code - which says FTP sensor circuit high and I see you did not replace the rotors here - after how many miles normally the rotors needed to be changed with brake pads ?
The wording is very vague in the maintenance menu. What ever you do (DO NOT HIT BREAK PAD REPLACEMENT TWICE) it will pop the piston out and then you have bigger problems. I wish you would have added this in your video.
@@jeffferritto oh man please do. I turned a 1 hr brake job into 1 day of cursing and putting the wheel back on without pads. 2 days of research. Then 3 hours of taking the caliber off, taking the electronic portion off the caliper, backing it out with wires to a 12V battery, fitting that piston in properly( there’s a boot that holds brake fluid behind the piston and the piston itself is two parts. A center threaded head with groves and the outside steel sleeve of piston the slides over groves. You have to work blind sliding that together while boot is on), bleeding the brakes on all 4 and testing the system. Whoever is reading this comment, (DO NOT ENGAGE THE EPB WHILE CALIPER IS OFF) if you engage the epb in any way after putting into service mode the epb will activate and push forward until the piston pops out. There is no fail safe in place for distance of the piston. I got it back together, but you may not have the tools or scanners to interact with your vehicle. Just be very cautious when working with your rear pad replacement and a epb.
@@jeffferritto oh no, definitely not. The caliper on these epb’s hold a ton of fluid behind them. I’m just surprised there not a fail safe in place like a lip on the backside that wouldn’t let it extend so far that it pops out. It’s almost like Mercedes wants you to take it in. I called Mercedes to find out a price for worst case scenario if I couldn’t get it back together. They quoted me $980. Luckily nothing was damaged and I was able to fix it myself
No! You just saw how it can be done withour it. Even on other cars you never need an OBD2. I have e Volvo V60, there is no user friendly option. All you need is to remove the motor from the calliper (2 mounting screws). Undo the caliper central screw clockwise (yes, it´s the right direction) and in the end reassemble the motor and activate the EPB normally 1 or 2 times. No erros, no problems. Did it already 2 times.
this is everything rong dot do this guys first of all you dont need to remove the calliper by force the first thing to do is remove the wheel go inside the car to dealers menu them do the replacement setting after that you remove the calliper with a easy push... delete this video man you will break some ones car, worked for mercedes for 2 years trust me i know what i am talking about.
That was fantastic Jeff. Thank you so much. I did my daughter's 2015 GLA250. I just want to reiterate what some else commented on that I missed that might have been obvious to most people but it wasn't to me and it wasn't mentioned in the video. Once I took the two bolts out of the caliper I expected the whole thing to come out easily like your video but it didn't. It finally dawned on me that this car isn't like the other older cars I did brake jobs on and has an electronic parking break that I had to release. Once I did that the rest of the job was exactly how you laid it out. This might save someone else a bit of heartache. Thanks again for a great video.
Thanks for the video.Just did my wifes rear brakes on 2018 gla 250. New pads came with pad wear sensors but there are no sensors on the rear and didn't see sensors on this vehicle either.
Release parking brake and insert stoper on both front wheels to avoid car rolling either forward or backsword
1. Loosen the lug bolts (you need ground resistance to turn the bolts, lesson learnt)
2. Put the EBP in pad replacement mode to disengage the caliper piston procedure: go inside the car and make sure all doors closed and push Start button on time, and toggle the back button until it goes to the mileage, first press and hold phone call button and then press and hold OK button at the same for 5 seconds. The cluster shows up vehicle DATA, move down to pad replacement position and hit OK and the cluster shows up: to move to fitting position and press Ok and get out car
3. Raise and remove the tire
4. remove the caliper and pad, push back piston with tool Replace the pads and reassemble the caliper on to the rotor (grease the retaining bolts, wear indicator, etc.)
5. Pump brakes until you feel the resistance
6. Reengage the EBP (similar to #2 above)
7. Yes of course, mount the tire and lower the vehicle
8. Repeat on the other side :)
I added this to the description with a thanks to you
@jeffferritto Step 2 & 3 appear in the wrong order here - in the video you remove the tyre first. Does it make a difference?
Jeff, I want to say thank you, thank you, and THANK YOU! You were very thorough, and it made changing my brakes so easy. Well, for my husband. Lol, the only issue we had was getting the vehicle data on the screen. Well, after 10 minutes, we were successful. We had to pull the starter button out and use the key to turn on the ignition. Oh my, the dollars that were SAVED! Thanks again, with plenty of likes.
Excellent video.... I tried to do the brake job without watching any videos (I am good and have tools), but when I couldn't push back the piston, I thought it was frozen and gave up.
Today I decided to search for it in TH-cam and I found this tutorial..... excellent, after releasing the e-brake everything was easy... Thank you..!
My frend used a clamp to push it back and broke the e brake. 1500 to fix that one
Thanks Jeff. Saw another video to do the retraction manually. This looks so much easier.
Thanks Jeff , It works for the B180 2013 model as well.
Thanks! Did my GLA250; half way through I couldn’t figure out why the pistons wouldn’t retract. A lifesaver.🙏🏻👍😊
Then you for the video. It was very very informative specially the reset brake pads part which I haven’t seen in other videos.
I also read the comments on the video, everything has been very helpful. Thank you Jeff and thank you everyone for sharing.
If the piston doesn't wind back all the way the first time. Re engage caliper but put something in front of piston so it wont wind out by using old pads, after doing so a few times then the piston will wind all the way back and the caliper will sit on bracket nicely.
Easiest way was by using an diag computer
So the right sequence would be:
1. Loosen the lug bolts (you need ground resistance to turn the bolts, lesson learnt )
2. Put the EBP in pad replacement mode to disengage the caliper piston
3. Raise and remove the tire
4. Replace the pads and reassemble the caliper on to the rotor (grease the retaining bolts, wear indicator, etc.)
5. Pump brakes until you feel the resistance
6. Reengage the EBP (similar to #2 above)
7. Yes of course, mount the tire and lower the vehicle
8. Repeat on the other side :)
Thoughts?
I wish I could add that to the video! Thanks
Should not you 6. Reengage the EBP when both side be done?
Do we actually need to engage brake piston thing twice? Or can just engage, change both sides and re engage?
Thanks for the help, super informative video. Keep up the good work. Currently working on my 2016 cla 250 amg night package fire
post here, how it goes.
I have caliber off and it didn’t go to chance mode, i put wire from caliber to brake disk and then it works. Calider needs a ground connection caliper/car👍
Unfortunately this does not apply to a 2017 GLA 250. The rear calipers are very different so you do need an 18mm inverted to remove the complete carrier and caliper.
where is the sensor
Back of the brake caliper
@@jeffferritto is that 1 sensor per car
@@GoodMemoriesToRemeber I don’t have the car anymore and I’m not sure if there’s one sensor on each caliper or just one in the back caliper
One on the drivers front and rear calipers
@@jeffferritto thank you the one i had 2019 gla 250 had only one in front as i saw other you tube video, thank you for your infor
Good explanation but let me give you an advice: do not activate the brake service mode after removing the caliper. If accidentally you undo the service mode, you will end up with the piston being pushed completely out. That error can easily be done, believe me. Despite I'm aware of it I wouldn´t swear I would never do it ;-)
I have the same vehicle and am currently in the process of replacing my rotors and pads. I started twisting the caliper piston back in without putting it in maintenance mode. What should I do now? Thank you.
@@aquacbd6718 Test the EPB. If it still works normanlly you can restart the procedure. If it is not working normaly, you will need to disassemble the caliper for repair. If you don't feal confident to do it, probably gettig a replacement one from a scrap yard would be a cheap good solution. Probably the last choice is the best and easiest.
@@CRBN74 Can the caliper be off while I test it? Or should i reassemble with old pads? Thank you very much for your help Claudio.
@@aquacbd6718 NOO! Don't activate EPB with the caliper out! Never! If you activate the EPB with the caliper out, its motor will run until the piston pops out! The EPB stops to tighten the pads by monithoring the current rise trough the motor. If the piston doesn't encounter oposition, it will not stop.
To make any test, reassemble the old pads and caliper back in place. Hopefully it will be still fine and you can restart the procedure.
If that´s the case, put the car on pad service mode before removing the caliper and don´t touch the buttons untill you finished both wheels. Before exiting the brake service mode, hit the brake pedal to tighten padt to the rotor. Only after that you should exit service mode.
@@CRBN74 Thank you Sir, everything was all good!
Hi, while changing the brakes pads….the car / ignition system must be on? This is important… thanks for your reply
No it retracts the break caliper and it stays
Is that computer's maintenence mode only needed for replacing the rears ones? Or the front ones too?
Just the rear
Emergency/parking brake is only at the rear of vehicle, not the front.
Same thing for a 2020 cla? And do you have to do that only when it comes to the rear brake pads or is it the same for the front as well
SOLO LAS TRASERAS,,POR FRENO ESTACIONAMIENTO ELECTRICO.
So you need to go in the computer just for the rear pad replacement? I didnt see this extra step on any videos about front pad replacement. thanks!
yes just for the back E brakes
Hey, come do a video on my 1 ton Chevy truck.
Should you only engage the maintenance mode for the rear brakes once and change both sides (driver/passenger)? Or Do you engage and disengage maintenance mode for each side?
I did one side at a time
Pushing the maintenance mode twice, once each side
You have to replace the rotars on Mercedes as well or it will squeel like mad
Or just sell it! like I did.
Great vid huge thx
great 😇
I definitely watched this too late. I compressed the piston before releasing the brakes like you showed. Do I need to replace the caliper or the actuator or both?
Not sure. Try a forum, im thinkingits all one unit. My buddy had to have Mercedes tow it and it cost $1500😢
Thanks for the video, now do you have to do that with the computer on the front also ?
no just the parking brake rears
@@jeffferritto thank you
Do you need to do the computer setting for the front brakes too?
No, just the back.
James: you clearly don't undestand what the motor does on the rear brakes. Better trust that service to someone who does. The answaer is no. On fronts you can just push the piston in, is purelly hidraulic.
Cláudio Nogueira already installed front and rear myself after someone replied with a simple no 4 months ago that I don’t need to set that for the front. yes I clearly understand since the setting only adjust the pistons to the rear when I have the wheels physically off and I can see for myself. but thanks for coming late to the party.
So once you have done one side, Do you need to reset the other side on the computer or just the once ?? Thanks
I did one side and then the other with doing the reset two times.
Good Evening Jeff, if you don’t mind can you tell me the name of the $5 part used to push the caliper in? I was told that I’d need some fancy kit that’s made for this car. Thank you for your help with this very detailed and direct video.
Piston compressor or just use a c clamp
@@jeffferritto alright thank you!! 🙏🏾
I have a quick question. Hope it doesn’t seem stupid but when I took off the brakes they seem to be in fairly good condition, but I’m receiving the message “check pad wear”. Being that the message is saying “check” isn’t necessarily saying I need new pads right?? I’m really confused lol…
@@_I_AM_9 are thay over 50% of what the new ones look like?
@@_I_AM_9 on both sides? One might be worse than the other side
My mentor.
Does this work on 2013 GLA 200?
Do not put into pad fitting mode with the caliper off. This will result in the piston popping out as I have just found out!!!!
I found out the hard way lol!! How did you fix that problem?
@cynthiaglaspie5805 blimey, this was a long time ago! If I remember correctly it was a right fiddle. The rubber gator had to come off and the piston would push back in. The problem was getting the gator back on the caliper and the piston. Took me a while. Then of course it needed bleeding again.
Good luck
@@markandrewthompson6587 gotcha, thank you! I appreciate the reply 😊🫶🏽
Unfortunately I’m here because I did in fact hit the button twice and my piston popped out of the caliper, is there a way to solve this without buying new calipers?
sorry too hear about that. they should retract? not pop out.
I took off the 13mil bolts but the caliper is not coming out, should I go inside the car and release the e brake lock ?
Yes.
Same thing going on right now. I tried to release the e brake but it still wont come out. Any help?
does the GLA 220d (2016) have rear break pad sensors?
I would assume it does
Do you have any torque specs for me?
I don't sorry
Hey Jeff!! Can you post a link to the tool you used to push the piston in?
A 4" or 5" inch c clamp will work too.
look at amazon for. (
capri disc spreader tool
What year is this particular model
2014 RWD
Hey, do you know where the fuel tank pressure sensor is for 2014 CLA 250 ? My check engine light is on with P24D8 code - which says FTP sensor circuit high and I see you did not replace the rotors here - after how many miles normally the rotors needed to be changed with brake pads ?
Generally there good till the second or even the third brake job. There not very expensive.
The wording is very vague in the maintenance menu. What ever you do (DO NOT HIT BREAK PAD REPLACEMENT TWICE) it will pop the piston out and then you have bigger problems. I wish you would have added this in your video.
Good to know I'll add it in the description
@@jeffferritto oh man please do. I turned a 1 hr brake job into 1 day of cursing and putting the wheel back on without pads. 2 days of research. Then 3 hours of taking the caliber off, taking the electronic portion off the caliper, backing it out with wires to a 12V battery, fitting that piston in properly( there’s a boot that holds brake fluid behind the piston and the piston itself is two parts. A center threaded head with groves and the outside steel sleeve of piston the slides over groves. You have to work blind sliding that together while boot is on), bleeding the brakes on all 4 and testing the system. Whoever is reading this comment, (DO NOT ENGAGE THE EPB WHILE CALIPER IS OFF) if you engage the epb in any way after putting into service mode the epb will activate and push forward until the piston pops out. There is no fail safe in place for distance of the piston. I got it back together, but you may not have the tools or scanners to interact with your vehicle. Just be very cautious when working with your rear pad replacement and a epb.
@@thewizard7099 I feel your pain. You think it would run out of fluid before it popped out!
@@jeffferritto oh no, definitely not. The caliper on these epb’s hold a ton of fluid behind them. I’m just surprised there not a fail safe in place like a lip on the backside that wouldn’t let it extend so far that it pops out. It’s almost like Mercedes wants you to take it in. I called Mercedes to find out a price for worst case scenario if I couldn’t get it back together. They quoted me $980. Luckily nothing was damaged and I was able to fix it myself
My piston popped out , help 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thanks!!!! Nice video man
It’s a shame lighting was so dark hard too see….
But I got the idea, near time use a drop light, thx tho
Thank you for sharing 👍
dont need OBD2 ??
No! You just saw how it can be done withour it. Even on other cars you never need an OBD2. I have e Volvo V60, there is no user friendly option. All you need is to remove the motor from the calliper (2 mounting screws). Undo the caliper central screw clockwise (yes, it´s the right direction) and in the end reassemble the motor and activate the EPB normally 1 or 2 times. No erros, no problems. Did it already 2 times.
Do the same for other side yes ?. or do both before closeing of computor ?. :)
I did the brakes and computer on one side and then did the the other side the same sequence
jeff Washington morning
I tried your directions retracting the electric braking system. It doesn't work. It doesn't work whether the ignition is on or off. Please respond.
The doors need to be closed
The EPB must be released. Did you checked it?
this is everything rong dot do this guys first of all you dont need to remove the calliper by force the first thing to do is remove the wheel go inside the car to dealers menu them do the replacement setting after that you remove the calliper with a easy push... delete this video man you will break some ones car, worked for mercedes for 2 years trust me i know what i am talking about.
This is wrong on you sequencing. You edit your video wrong now my piston is out 🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️
did you do one brake at a time?
Yes I did
How is the sequence wrong?
Hi!! Having the same piston problem . How’d you fix it?? Please help 😭😭🤦🏽♀️
well well well
do you have to go on the computer for the front wheels too or is it only for the rear wheels?
No only the Back The computer is for the E brake which is only the back brakes