Friendly Suggestion: Take prop off, get it warmed up while checking for water flow from the impeller, reinstall prop, start while kneeling with no one in front of you, good luck, love your videos!
I worked for C&E Marina all though high school on the Ohio River. I got one of these boats given to me for free, almost identical to this dirt cheap in bad shape. It had a 20 HP Mercury twin cylinder engine of the same era , same green color. I rebuilt the boat and engine and swapped the carbs with bigger ones from the next sized up engine. The marina I worked for was into racing and their mechanics helped me super tune the engine with a set of expansion chambers to help me get into racing. I was in 10th grade at that point. Usually Merc engines weren't that fussy when tuned right. You do need to choke them when starting. But if the ignition coils were getting weak or wet or condensers were shot, they were near impossible to start!! That boat ran like a bat out of hell right up till one early evening. I was testing it in the Ohio River for an upcoming race and I hit an almost totally submerged 55 gallon drum. I never saw it in the river ! The boat was demolished, the engine went to the bottom, and I flew about 50 ft out the front end of the boat when the boat stopped and I didn't!! Back in the 1960's the Ohio River was a polluted mess and had a lot of debris in it. I was lucky, there was another boat close to me that saw what happened and they fished me out of the river with some seriously bruised ribs. Ah, but what a great summer!!
In Australia there is a product called “start ya bastard” this spray can spray into air intake = immediate starting must’ve similar product in the states😂
The old standard for starting those Mercs was to choke with your thumb or a rag on the first pull. Also, try to put it on a sawhorse or stand so the gearcase is in the water just enough to pick up water, start motor to warm up and check cooling flow.
From my landscaping experience with weedwackers and lawnmowers and nitro R/C cars... That is priming fuel beyond the standard. Sure it will work for the moment but ya gotta clean out that carburetor and run an enhanced fuel jet cleaner once a while, especially on your last run before ending the season. Specially yes "choking the air intake with your thumb", which is not so easily done on many weedwhackers because of air intake designs. And if you still have trouble with a brand you love, just throw the crap away, there is a reason their machine failed and that is to make more money.
I saw someone recommended the sawhorse approach, which I was going to recommend. It is still inspiring how well you progressed on this and all the other projects on your channel. Just another project to film in the coming year!
At least she tried... There are some fantastic carb tuning vids on TH-cam. Two stroke carbs are very finicky. They always run different in the water than out. Get you a trash can or a 55 gallon drum and cover the prop with water in your driveway while tuning/testing. ONLY use non-ethanol gas in that thing. I was also thinking you need to try and start it with the prop out of the water, but you don't want to run it very long at all like that. You'll burn up it's little water pump. Don't give up. It can be crazy frustrating when this little two stroke outboards won't run right, especially when you're excited and went through the trouble to get it all down to the lake. You'll get it!
i just finished mine and she is ready to go i got the 10 horse merc fired up just need to connect throttle cable to shifter it’s nearly identical to yours but with my higher transom and small fins in the back it’s starting to look like batman’s boat i’ll let you know when i make a video of it just put a planing wing on the lower unit too
It may be a blessing it didn't start and toss you out the back, possibly injuring her as well. In that shallow water, you would likely have dug the propeller into the rocks as well. The transom will dive deep and the nose will go high when you accelerate. That engine should start just fine with the gearcase in the water. Good idea above to build a couple little "sawhorse" stands you can set the boat on (aimed out into the lake) and start the engine with the propeller barely in the water but the waterpump intake still submerged so you can warm up the engine before your first ride. The engine should "pop" with choke on 1st or 2nd pull, then fire right up on 2nd or 3rd pull; if not fix things before the recoil gets broken. Don't snatch the pull start in one motion; flip of the wrist to engage starter pawls/mechanism, THEN pull. Don't pull all the rope out to the end of the range, either, as that can also break the starter mechanism. Here is a good example: th-cam.com/video/QOXcyqVf9gk/w-d-xo.html
I am doing the locking pawls, then pulling... or at least I try to until I got so pissed. I rebuilt this carb but I have no idea where any of the mixture screws are supposed to be at. Any pointers?
Should have put the Fireball in the tank, rather than drinking it!! :) Sorry it didn't work, would have loved to see it. Good framing with the boat and the waves coming towards the camera. So not all is lost!
From my real world experience... My idea of starting up 2 cycle and 4 cycle motors in landscaping... If it doesn't start up in 5-8 pulls then it is not going to start at all.... usually you can put a tiny amount of gas into the carb to get it started and running. That is the test run if needing a complete carb clean out... If my machines still didn't start after a carb clean, and there was not enough compression then I just scrap it to the recycle center from the same place that I buy a dozen or more machines. Real thing. If it doesn't start within 8 pulls.... Check if gas is flowing, engine is not off... Quick fix, unscrew the carb or any high/low screws and spray through any ports with carb cleaner, then put back on and pour a small cap of gas directly into the intake, it should start and run momentarily. If not, your spark plug is incorrect or not sparking. Or if it does start up and run few seconds and cuts off, then the carb is most likely dirty and it's not passing enough gas through the carb jets.... I had lawn mowers and weedwackers that needed the ignition coil replaced. So if that gas is not firing at all, it could be the ignition coil.
The gas is flowing, what's tricky about this is there is no neutral, and the racing lower unit is 1:1, so there's a lot of drag when you turn it over while the prop is in the water. Out of the water, without the gearcase on, it starts easily.
That sucks, sorry you didn’t get to see it run. Looking great on the water. Definitely need someway to reduce load on engine start up. I wonder if you could put the motor in a barrel at the shop and get it to the point it will start under load this fall/ winter and be ready for next year.
Maybe consider getting a more recent motor, like a Tohatsu or Yamaha. Nice little hydro broheim! I also had an 8 footer with a 5 hp Johnson, when I was 15. Don't take it out it chop, you may easily get swamped. Good luck, man!
Sorry you didn't get her up to speed this year. There is always next season!!! I would bet my money on that she is only firing on one cylinder. Bendix mags are known for this. I have 7 green tanks in my collection, which I have rebuilt. Your motor is a ke7 with the early bendix without the backlite cover, which is actually the more dependable magneto of the two. shimming it just right and locking the magneto will give you best results. These motors have enough power to run out of the water on one cylinder and sound just fine... Once they are in the water they will not power up. Timing is crucial and the stator plate over time wears at the block, that is why you will have to lock the mag plate down at full advance. Also, I think some of the issues you were having with the portage bay systems throttle controls is because they are made for motors with fixed mags on full advance, this would have probably given you the clearance needed. I am not sure because I make all my own throttle controls for mine and never played with those. Your problem is magneto related, when they fire exactly 180 degrees apart, somewhere near .285 btdc they start first pull with a choke almost every single time. Best of luck!
I actually snapped the advance lever off in a previous video dealing with all the crappy fitting parts from Portage Bay Systems... so right now it's fixed at full advance. I figured with the kill switch I don't really need any adjustment other than full advance. Make sense or ?
@@ADDvanced I have been following this series, probably watched em' all. Reminds me alot of what I went through with my austin runabout. I really worked hard for at least 2 years trying to figure how to get the boat to be controllable. So, I feel your pain. I had probably 20 disappointments in one way or another throughout my learning process on that boat and I have worked on outboard motors for almost 30 years now as a hobby so don't get frustrated. Every time I work on a k series merc I ALWAYS lock the mag at full advance and make remote throttle for deadman. Any play or out of round at the block or stator plate can cause the points gaps to change if the stator plate is rotated. Also, ANY side to side crankshaft play can contact the bendix rotor to the laminates for the coils and cause magnets to loose their strength. There are also many ground points in the bendix that need to be spotless as well. Adding a ground strap from block to stator plate may help too. Another thing don't question the fact that new crank seals are probably a good idea, even though you rebuilt the motor as a kid with your dad.... Them crank seals are going to be junk and they are not all that hard to change. It could be sucking air at the top crank seal, drawing all the fuel for both cylinders into cylinder 2 and flooding it. That is the reason for all the excess fuel leaking from the powerhead to exhaust housing gasket. I just worked on a kf7 last week, I thought the problem was in the bendix. Fuel everywhere just like your motor, I noticed my upper cylinder was dry and I knew right away. I put an upper crank seal I had in a parts box in it. Started first pull on the lake and ran like a top.
nickbaysek9892 may be correct about the engine only running on one cylinder. May be able to tell by comparing the plugs at the electrode end. But, not sure on that... Saw horse we used were steel with carpet over the top rail. Not scuffing up the bottom of the boat. The front legs were not far apart from the back legs. With the boat set in the water at the correct dept, holding mostly the back of the boat up, won't take much to push the boat forward once it starts. And, the saw horse falls down out of the way. I never had a problem with my one to one unit being too hard to start because it was deep in the water. But, my engine was 15 or 20 horse, don't remember which... I seriously doubt the prop being fully submerged is the problem. Pretty sure there's not even enough room to put a prop on it big enough to keep it from starting. Even though those racing props look pretty wicked compared to other props of similar size engines!! Good luck!
A lot of good info here. One thing I want to bring up... Don't know if your butterfly is a full circle or not. If it has an opening in it. change it to a full round brass circle. The butterfly with the (Half moon?) cut out of it is meant to keep the engine running. Works great for a fishing motor. That is the LAST thing you want with a quicky lower unit!!! Had a tower housing break in two on me. Had a kill switch to hit when I wanted to stop the engine. When the tower housing broke I was barely up on plane just cruising. The lower unit with part of the tower housing turned sideways. Threw me out of the boat. Next thing I knew I was in the water trying to figure out where all the water came from!?!? Heard the engine running. So looked over to see what was going on with the boat. I see the boat coming at me. Not a good swimmer. But I swam as fast as I could!! Looked back and it's coming at me again!! Lucky for me a guy saw what happened and came out to help. Had to bulldog the hydro to stop the engine. Lesson learned!!!! Another tid bit- learned with other engines I played with if the spark plugs weren't hot enough the engine would run out of water. But, when put in the water it would die. In your case It may be the same. I'd bet the problem is a bad coil and/or leaky gasket(s). Possibly some other electrical inefficiencies. Leaky seals around the crank would make the engine almost IMPOSSIBLE to start. In the water or out. Best to try in a barrel or garbage can. You want to get the problem sorted out there. if not you won't be able to pull the rope very many times from a sitting position. You get it fixed and try starting it from a standing position, about an 85% chance you're going head first over the transom! Don't give up. Most of the racers set the throttle fairly fast and lock it there... When I was pit man for a guy he had saw horses made from steel. The legs were not set very far apart. That way when the engine started you could just push the boat. The saw horses would fall down in the water out of the way of the prop.
I have videos of it starting on land pretty easy.... I think I'm going to build some sort of sawhorse solution so I can get it running and then drop it into the water all the way and go. Thanks for all the tips! Will definitely get back to this soon.
From all the fuel running down under the engine , look like it’s flooded. And agreed with the rest, when that thing starts , your going for a ride ! Lol. I am restoring a 1960 Merc 200 , 22 hp, for my Mini Most! Sorry it didn’t go, but you’ll get it! Good luck!
Dang! you'll be lucky if that Merc200 doesn't sink it nose up. I used a 60 Merc100 on my mini and needed my two brothers to hold the stern up until I could get it moving. Worked OK while under way, just hoped I didn't need to stop.
It's been nearly two years since an update on this sea flea! You've upgraded boats using Space Age Materials! You've attempted offing yourself with CO! Maybe even a couple other things since then! Anyway, get this sucker fired up and SENT IT!
Check out what type of lawn mover the garner is using. I bet it is a Honda, why cuss they have advanced spark. So now what king of outboard motor are you going to buy?
Did you ever get the KG7 cooking and run it down the lake? Couldn't find a video of that. I just picked up two standard KG7 models without the Quicksilver racing lower units on them this past week, so I came back to check these out again. No idea what I'll do with mine, but they were local, and how can anyone refuse the buying a cheap and local Super Hurricane? I'll get around to fixing...some day... :)
My dad built me one just like it . The plans were from a Glenn Ellen marine catalog. Fix the motor. Looks like it already has a Twister prop. That should fly.
In your snow mobile video you mentioned not having a 12lb weight…I’m starting to see the issue here…go get some spinach and a weight set to prepare for next season :)
Um bro!!!! Yer standing in the boat, and and what’s she doing at the side.?! So like doesn’t that throttle have a locking (deadman’s)mechanism? At any rate, when that boat starts in gear while standing, yer going swimming and she runs potential of getting propped. A better approach would be her holding rear of tank with legs spread 😉 staying away from prop but keeping you close while trying to start. In the boat, you on one knee kinda at the ready to drive but butt (if it can handle it) almost sitting on side board body twisted to pull. Step 2 I find very useful is starting fluid spray! I know I know, it’s so bad for the motor, but no, not really. People are hypo ding dongs about the lack of oil and its super solvent quality, but yer just using a shot. I remove choke on all of my boats and give them a shot a the beginning, sometimes have to do it twice, but fires off soooo much easier! So a shot down the gullet then set throttle up a couple of bumps and lock. Then be ready for it to take off on ya once you pull on it. Another thing is adjusting the timing to medium advanced. Fires harder more positive but a bit harder to pull. You can play around with that. Another thing I like to do is on my boat cart is roll the boat down and warm it up before actually attempting to bury the prop in water and starting while the current is taking me down river. So having it start is important, not to mention I have no recoil on one of my motors. Hell, if you were close, I d come give you a hand making this thing happen. May the force be with you!
It does have a locking mechanism if you press the button. She was squeezing the throttle a bit while I was pulling it. I got it to pop/run on land by pinning the throttle wide open, but I was trying to avoid doing that with the prop in the water, so she was squeezing part throttle, and not clicking the button to lock it. Thank you for all the wisdom!
@@ADDvanced no prob yo. If the throttle can do partial throttle clicks, safer way to go. Also, I for got to mention. And I have a feeling that you are beginning to understand why, run those wires up in the boat and mount disconnect next to throttle. You’ll want the shortest and most accessible possible. IE; if on ankle at transom, bombing a full throttle, things get out of shape, typically feet are last thing out, while a rotating mass is possibly near a hydro lock situation or a prop is nearing you. Sooner off the better. Besides, it’s easier to connect on/off them.
When I was a kid I had a small hydro. Had a 13hp racing motor thing flew but I hit a wake from a large boat got knocked out and watched it smash into the rocks.
KG4H are a very hard to choke. You need a crash throttle that locks in 1/2 throttle. 1. You need a small sqeeze bottle of gas. Open the carb and spray the heck out of it. Next hold your hand over the carb and slightly pull until gas is spilling out. Now you are ready to start. when the engine starts you will need to fan the carb until it runs. You will know because it will run because of the 1/2 throttle position. When warm this engine will start with one pull.
What I see people doing, is to just put the boat on their cart or trailer far enough in, to where the pump inlet is submerged. That way there's much less resistance on the prop, and you let it warm up. Then you just plop it in the drink, start and go.
@@ADDvanced Oh man, looking forward to this. I was just looking thru your videos and didn't see an update in the last 2 years. Was hoping the project wasn't abandoned and sold off. Best of luck!
If it doesn't have a name yet... "Swole AF" That what you be to run that b+!ch Love the build on this lil hydro. That Merc cowling up on the shelf in the background give a man a chub. Can't wait to see it on the "Hung Ripper"
I started racing stock outboards in 1968... We would have a few Brutus looking friends ( crewmen ) lift the trans9m out of yhe water ...While a larger dude would pull the rope ... Who ever told you to back the idle screws one and a half turns.. He is correct.. Reprime the bulb.. Make sure the bulb check valves are working .. Prime it untill it gets hard ..Choke it.. Try again .. If it does not start in a few pulls.? Check to see if you have fire at the plugs .. .. If still nothing ? .. Check your compression.. Those old Mercs do not die of natural causes.. Some days they just get a bit cranky
Race rack is the answer. You put it on a frame out of the water then the frame drops the boat in the water. We used them in the 1970’s to tune em and start em. Simply build a square frame that locks upright then either drops like a parallelogram when you pull a pin or has a stop on it so you push the boat and the thing drops down into the water.
Sir. Please listen to Sarah more. Also choke on full then pull three times Choke Off then Start. Second never Run Motor without in Water. Place outboard in a Garbage 🗑 can then work on getting in started at Home? Also it may be A Cold Blood outboard.
Your boat isn't a Mini Max. They didn't have sponsons or the extra piece of plywood in the bottom nose area. Is similar to the Flea... But the sponsons are a bit shallow...???
Did you watch all the other videos? I initially thought it was a mini max, but I found the actual plans/name of the boat and put it in some of hte video descriptions.
First thing, move the wife away from the boat, Set the throttle at wide open . Aim the boat straight out into the lake, pull the choke ,when it fires, push in the choke. Head out. Then try to get it on plain and set the high speed needle to its peak RPM and open a 1/4 turn and leave it .Slow down to 3 MPH and set the low speed. After that it should be close to where it wants to be. Your whole problem was you didn't have the throttle high enough to get it moving . You should have been running on the 2nd or 3rd pull of the cord, and off ya go. After the needles are set ,tighten the packing nuts .Then you should be good for the season.
It would start on land pretty easily. I think the issue is the 1:1 prop drag was too much to pull start; there is no neutral. You pull the cord and the prop spins, and spinning it in air is easier than in water. I was thinking if I could get it to catch, spin it fast enough, it might actually run.
One more important Thang don't run the dam motor out of the water you will fry the rings before you know it .and more so when you don't know what the f#@$%^your doing
I don't mean out out of the water, but form what I've read it's common to get the lower unit half in the water, and pull start while the boat is sitting on a sawhorse. Once it runs, tip down and take off.
Hey dipshit this is an entire build series, and the goal of the build is to hit 50 w 10hp. There are at least 6 videos on building this boat, tuning the hull bottom for speed, rebuilding the carb, rigging it, and this one. Now please F off and stay off my channel, bud
Friendly Suggestion: Take prop off, get it warmed up while checking for water flow from the impeller, reinstall prop, start while kneeling with no one in front of you, good luck, love your videos!
I worked for C&E Marina all though high school on the Ohio River. I got one of these boats given to me for free, almost identical to this dirt cheap in bad shape. It had a 20 HP Mercury twin cylinder engine of the same era , same green color. I rebuilt the boat and engine and swapped the carbs with bigger ones from the next sized up engine. The marina I worked for was into racing and their mechanics helped me super tune the engine with a set of expansion chambers to help me get into racing. I was in 10th grade at that point.
Usually Merc engines weren't that fussy when tuned right. You do need to choke them when starting. But if the ignition coils were getting weak or wet or condensers were shot, they were near impossible to start!! That boat ran like a bat out of hell right up till one early evening. I was testing it in the Ohio River for an upcoming race and I hit an almost totally submerged 55 gallon drum. I never saw it in the river ! The boat was demolished, the engine went to the bottom, and I flew about 50 ft out the front end of the boat when the boat stopped and I didn't!! Back in the 1960's the Ohio River was a polluted mess and had a lot of debris in it. I was lucky, there was another boat close to me that saw what happened and they fished me out of the river with some seriously bruised ribs. Ah, but what a great summer!!
Hay man take the prop off start and adjust it close as you can .warm it up make sure it pumps water .
Where were you a few weeks ago? Great idea!
Yes. This. That resistance is killing you
In Australia there is a product called “start ya bastard” this spray can spray into air intake = immediate starting must’ve similar product in the states😂
The old standard for starting those Mercs was to choke with your thumb or a rag on the first pull. Also, try to put it on a sawhorse or stand so the gearcase is in the water just enough to pick up water, start motor to warm up and check cooling flow.
Sawhorses next time for sure.
From my landscaping experience with weedwackers and lawnmowers and nitro R/C cars... That is priming fuel beyond the standard. Sure it will work for the moment but ya gotta clean out that carburetor and run an enhanced fuel jet cleaner once a while, especially on your last run before ending the season.
Specially yes "choking the air intake with your thumb", which is not so easily done on many weedwhackers because of air intake designs. And if you still have trouble with a brand you love, just throw the crap away, there is a reason their machine failed and that is to make more money.
sad bro, really looked forward to seeing it for months
I get it, I've been looking forward to it for a few decades....
I saw someone recommended the sawhorse approach, which I was going to recommend. It is still inspiring how well you progressed on this and all the other projects on your channel. Just another project to film in the coming year!
Pretty bummed. That said, it's really close! Oh well. Next spring it's for sure happening.
With you standing while yanking I was hoping for a more adventurous fail. ;-) If she gets swole we need "Swole Sarah" stickers.
I heard it pop a few times I guess.
At least she tried... There are some fantastic carb tuning vids on TH-cam. Two stroke carbs are very finicky. They always run different in the water than out. Get you a trash can or a 55 gallon drum and cover the prop with water in your driveway while tuning/testing. ONLY use non-ethanol gas in that thing. I was also thinking you need to try and start it with the prop out of the water, but you don't want to run it very long at all like that. You'll burn up it's little water pump. Don't give up. It can be crazy frustrating when this little two stroke outboards won't run right, especially when you're excited and went through the trouble to get it all down to the lake. You'll get it!
Yup, non ethanol fuel only, high octane, and I forget what % premix I was doing. Barrel tuning is happening next year for sure.
i just finished mine and she is ready to go i got the 10 horse merc fired up just need to connect throttle cable to shifter
it’s nearly identical to yours but with my higher transom and small fins in the back
it’s starting to look like batman’s boat
i’ll let you know when i make a video of it
just put a planing wing on the lower unit too
It may be a blessing it didn't start and toss you out the back, possibly injuring her as well. In that shallow water, you would likely have dug the propeller into the rocks as well. The transom will dive deep and the nose will go high when you accelerate. That engine should start just fine with the gearcase in the water. Good idea above to build a couple little "sawhorse" stands you can set the boat on (aimed out into the lake) and start the engine with the propeller barely in the water but the waterpump intake still submerged so you can warm up the engine before your first ride. The engine should "pop" with choke on 1st or 2nd pull, then fire right up on 2nd or 3rd pull; if not fix things before the recoil gets broken. Don't snatch the pull start in one motion; flip of the wrist to engage starter pawls/mechanism, THEN pull. Don't pull all the rope out to the end of the range, either, as that can also break the starter mechanism.
Here is a good example: th-cam.com/video/QOXcyqVf9gk/w-d-xo.html
I am doing the locking pawls, then pulling... or at least I try to until I got so pissed. I rebuilt this carb but I have no idea where any of the mixture screws are supposed to be at. Any pointers?
Should have put the Fireball in the tank, rather than drinking it!! :)
Sorry it didn't work, would have loved to see it.
Good framing with the boat and the waves coming towards the camera.
So not all is lost!
Next time!
From my real world experience... My idea of starting up 2 cycle and 4 cycle motors in landscaping... If it doesn't start up in 5-8 pulls then it is not going to start at all.... usually you can put a tiny amount of gas into the carb to get it started and running. That is the test run if needing a complete carb clean out... If my machines still didn't start after a carb clean, and there was not enough compression then I just scrap it to the recycle center from the same place that I buy a dozen or more machines.
Real thing. If it doesn't start within 8 pulls.... Check if gas is flowing, engine is not off... Quick fix, unscrew the carb or any high/low screws and spray through any ports with carb cleaner, then put back on and pour a small cap of gas directly into the intake, it should start and run momentarily. If not, your spark plug is incorrect or not sparking. Or if it does start up and run few seconds and cuts off, then the carb is most likely dirty and it's not passing enough gas through the carb jets....
I had lawn mowers and weedwackers that needed the ignition coil replaced. So if that gas is not firing at all, it could be the ignition coil.
The gas is flowing, what's tricky about this is there is no neutral, and the racing lower unit is 1:1, so there's a lot of drag when you turn it over while the prop is in the water. Out of the water, without the gearcase on, it starts easily.
I guesss owning a boat means that t-shirt is mandatory! Looking forward to seeing that whipping around the lake.
🎶 TO BE FAAAAIR 🎶
how are ya now?
That sucks, sorry you didn’t get to see it run. Looking great on the water. Definitely need someway to reduce load on engine start up. I wonder if you could put the motor in a barrel at the shop and get it to the point it will start under load this fall/ winter and be ready for next year.
Definitely doing the barrel thing next spring.
Maybe consider getting a more recent motor, like a Tohatsu or Yamaha. Nice little hydro broheim! I also had an 8 footer with a 5 hp Johnson, when I was 15. Don't take it out it chop, you may easily get swamped. Good luck, man!
Sorry you didn't get her up to speed this year. There is always next season!!! I would bet my money on that she is only firing on one cylinder. Bendix mags are known for this. I have 7 green tanks in my collection, which I have rebuilt. Your motor is a ke7 with the early bendix without the backlite cover, which is actually the more dependable magneto of the two. shimming it just right and locking the magneto will give you best results. These motors have enough power to run out of the water on one cylinder and sound just fine... Once they are in the water they will not power up. Timing is crucial and the stator plate over time wears at the block, that is why you will have to lock the mag plate down at full advance. Also, I think some of the issues you were having with the portage bay systems throttle controls is because they are made for motors with fixed mags on full advance, this would have probably given you the clearance needed. I am not sure because I make all my own throttle controls for mine and never played with those. Your problem is magneto related, when they fire exactly 180 degrees apart, somewhere near .285 btdc they start first pull with a choke almost every single time. Best of luck!
I actually snapped the advance lever off in a previous video dealing with all the crappy fitting parts from Portage Bay Systems... so right now it's fixed at full advance. I figured with the kill switch I don't really need any adjustment other than full advance. Make sense or ?
@@ADDvanced I have been following this series, probably watched em' all. Reminds me alot of what I went through with my austin runabout. I really worked hard for at least 2 years trying to figure how to get the boat to be controllable. So, I feel your pain. I had probably 20 disappointments in one way or another throughout my learning process on that boat and I have worked on outboard motors for almost 30 years now as a hobby so don't get frustrated. Every time I work on a k series merc I ALWAYS lock the mag at full advance and make remote throttle for deadman. Any play or out of round at the block or stator plate can cause the points gaps to change if the stator plate is rotated. Also, ANY side to side crankshaft play can contact the bendix rotor to the laminates for the coils and cause magnets to loose their strength. There are also many ground points in the bendix that need to be spotless as well. Adding a ground strap from block to stator plate may help too. Another thing don't question the fact that new crank seals are probably a good idea, even though you rebuilt the motor as a kid with your dad.... Them crank seals are going to be junk and they are not all that hard to change. It could be sucking air at the top crank seal, drawing all the fuel for both cylinders into cylinder 2 and flooding it. That is the reason for all the excess fuel leaking from the powerhead to exhaust housing gasket. I just worked on a kf7 last week, I thought the problem was in the bendix. Fuel everywhere just like your motor, I noticed my upper cylinder was dry and I knew right away. I put an upper crank seal I had in a parts box in it. Started first pull on the lake and ran like a top.
nickbaysek9892 may be correct about the engine only running on one cylinder. May be able to tell by comparing the plugs at the electrode end. But, not sure on that...
Saw horse we used were steel with carpet over the top rail. Not scuffing up the bottom of the boat. The front legs were not far apart from the back legs. With the boat set in the water at the correct dept, holding mostly the back of the boat up, won't take much to push the boat forward once it starts. And, the saw horse falls down out of the way. I never had a problem with my one to one unit being too hard to start because it was deep in the water. But, my engine was 15 or 20 horse, don't remember which... I seriously doubt the prop being fully submerged is the problem. Pretty sure there's not even enough room to put a prop on it big enough to keep it from starting. Even though those racing props look pretty wicked compared to other props of similar size engines!! Good luck!
A lot of good info here. One thing I want to bring up... Don't know if your butterfly is a full circle or not. If it has an opening in it. change it to a full round brass circle. The butterfly with the (Half moon?) cut out of it is meant to keep the engine running. Works great for a fishing motor. That is the LAST thing you want with a quicky lower unit!!! Had a tower housing break in two on me. Had a kill switch to hit when I wanted to stop the engine. When the tower housing broke I was barely up on plane just cruising. The lower unit with part of the tower housing turned sideways. Threw me out of the boat. Next thing I knew I was in the water trying to figure out where all the water came from!?!? Heard the engine running. So looked over to see what was going on with the boat. I see the boat coming at me. Not a good swimmer. But I swam as fast as I could!! Looked back and it's coming at me again!! Lucky for me a guy saw what happened and came out to help. Had to bulldog the hydro to stop the engine. Lesson learned!!!! Another tid bit- learned with other engines I played with if the spark plugs weren't hot enough the engine would run out of water. But, when put in the water it would die. In your case It may be the same. I'd bet the problem is a bad coil and/or leaky gasket(s). Possibly some other electrical inefficiencies. Leaky seals around the crank would make the engine almost IMPOSSIBLE to start. In the water or out. Best to try in a barrel or garbage can. You want to get the problem sorted out there. if not you won't be able to pull the rope very many times from a sitting position. You get it fixed and try starting it from a standing position, about an 85% chance you're going head first over the transom! Don't give up. Most of the racers set the throttle fairly fast and lock it there... When I was pit man for a guy he had saw horses made from steel. The legs were not set very far apart. That way when the engine started you could just push the boat. The saw horses would fall down in the water out of the way of the prop.
I have videos of it starting on land pretty easy.... I think I'm going to build some sort of sawhorse solution so I can get it running and then drop it into the water all the way and go. Thanks for all the tips! Will definitely get back to this soon.
I used to have one of these when i was a child. You need to get a tune up. Lots of things can be at fault. But once it is running they are a blast.
She runs great, watch the previous video! Issue was getting it spun over fast enough while hte prop is dragging in the water
From all the fuel running down under the engine , look like it’s flooded. And agreed with the rest, when that thing starts , your going for a ride ! Lol. I am restoring a 1960 Merc 200 , 22 hp, for my Mini Most! Sorry it didn’t go, but you’ll get it! Good luck!
Wasn't sure where that leak is coming from, looks like I need more gaskets?
Dang! you'll be lucky if that Merc200 doesn't sink it nose up. I used a 60 Merc100 on my mini and needed my two brothers to hold the stern up until I could get it moving. Worked OK while under way, just hoped I didn't need to stop.
It's been nearly two years since an update on this sea flea! You've upgraded boats using Space Age Materials! You've attempted offing yourself with CO! Maybe even a couple other things since then!
Anyway, get this sucker fired up and SENT IT!
Check out what type of lawn mover the garner is using. I bet it is a Honda, why cuss they have advanced spark. So now what king of outboard motor are you going to buy?
Did you ever get the KG7 cooking and run it down the lake? Couldn't find a video of that.
I just picked up two standard KG7 models without the Quicksilver racing lower units on them this past week, so I came back to check these out again. No idea what I'll do with mine, but they were local, and how can anyone refuse the buying a cheap and local Super Hurricane? I'll get around to fixing...some day... :)
My dad built me one just like it . The plans were from a Glenn Ellen marine catalog. Fix the motor. Looks like it already has a Twister prop. That should fly.
In your snow mobile video you mentioned not having a 12lb weight…I’m starting to see the issue here…go get some spinach and a weight set to prepare for next season :)
lmao or I could just yank this thing over 75x a day :D
Sweet. My dad and his buddy built and raced in the 40s and 50s . They even built their own props. He was a Kiekhaefer all the way
Did you ever get this going? I don't see any videos of it on your channel.
Um bro!!!! Yer standing in the boat, and and what’s she doing at the side.?! So like doesn’t that throttle have a locking (deadman’s)mechanism? At any rate, when that boat starts in gear while standing, yer going swimming and she runs potential of getting propped.
A better approach would be her holding rear of tank with legs spread 😉 staying away from prop but keeping you close while trying to start. In the boat, you on one knee kinda at the ready to drive but butt (if it can handle it) almost sitting on side board body twisted to pull. Step 2 I find very useful is starting fluid spray! I know I know, it’s so bad for the motor, but no, not really. People are hypo ding dongs about the lack of oil and its super solvent quality, but yer just using a shot. I remove choke on all of my boats and give them a shot a the beginning, sometimes have to do it twice, but fires off soooo much easier! So a shot down the gullet then set throttle up a couple of bumps and lock. Then be ready for it to take off on ya once you pull on it. Another thing is adjusting the timing to medium advanced. Fires harder more positive but a bit harder to pull. You can play around with that.
Another thing I like to do is on my boat cart is roll the boat down and warm it up before actually attempting to bury the prop in water and starting while the current is taking me down river. So having it start is important, not to mention I have no recoil on one of my motors.
Hell, if you were close, I d come give you a hand making this thing happen.
May the force be with you!
It does have a locking mechanism if you press the button. She was squeezing the throttle a bit while I was pulling it. I got it to pop/run on land by pinning the throttle wide open, but I was trying to avoid doing that with the prop in the water, so she was squeezing part throttle, and not clicking the button to lock it. Thank you for all the wisdom!
@@ADDvanced no prob yo. If the throttle can do partial throttle clicks, safer way to go. Also, I for got to mention. And I have a feeling that you are beginning to understand why, run those wires up in the boat and mount disconnect next to throttle. You’ll want the shortest and most accessible possible. IE; if on ankle at transom, bombing a full throttle, things get out of shape, typically feet are last thing out, while a rotating mass is possibly near a hydro lock situation or a prop is nearing you. Sooner off the better. Besides, it’s easier to connect on/off them.
When I was a kid I had a small hydro. Had a 13hp racing motor thing flew but I hit a wake from a large boat got knocked out and watched it smash into the rocks.
lol. Glad you are okay.
Did this ever get going? Great vids
Build a little stand at the rear
I like that idea, then maybe it flips down?
KG4H are a very hard to choke. You need a crash throttle that locks in 1/2 throttle. 1. You need a small sqeeze bottle of gas. Open the carb and spray the heck out of it. Next hold your hand over the carb and slightly pull until gas is spilling out. Now you are ready to start. when the engine starts you will need to fan the carb until it runs. You will know because it will run because of the 1/2 throttle position. When warm this engine will start with one pull.
What I see people doing, is to just put the boat on their cart or trailer far enough in, to where the pump inlet is submerged. That way there's much less resistance on the prop, and you let it warm up. Then you just plop it in the drink, start and go.
Did you advance the timing?
Yup it was near start/full advance.
Impact gun on the flywheel?
What’s the intro music?
Damn! She did look good in the water.
Yeah... I mean the thumbnail photo got featured on bayrippers IG account, so that is pretty cool.
How did you rebuild the motor and can't start the thing doesn't make sense
Watch the previous videos. I got it running on land, dude.
Just wondering, how do you advance the timing so it will start with the timing handle broken off?
I just twisted it to the start/full advance location and left it there. I have a kill switch to shut it down.
When will we get an update on this?
Sometime between next weekend and never. Pretty overwhelmed right now but I really want to ride this thing, but have to do some other stuff first.
@@ADDvanced Oh man, looking forward to this. I was just looking thru your videos and didn't see an update in the last 2 years. Was hoping the project wasn't abandoned and sold off. Best of luck!
No worries Mate. Look at it this way... you don't have to go to the gym. Just try pull starting the old girl ! 🤣
If it doesn't have a name yet...
"Swole AF"
That what you be to run that b+!ch
Love the build on this lil hydro. That Merc cowling up on the shelf in the background give a man a chub. Can't wait to see it on the "Hung Ripper"
Use your coldless drill motor as a touch and go starter
I started racing stock outboards in 1968... We would have a few Brutus looking friends ( crewmen ) lift the trans9m out of yhe water ...While a larger dude would pull the rope ...
Who ever told you to back the idle screws one and a half turns.. He is correct.. Reprime the bulb.. Make sure the bulb check valves are working .. Prime it untill it gets hard ..Choke it.. Try again ..
If it does not start in a few pulls.?
Check to see if you have fire at the plugs .. .. If still nothing ? .. Check your compression..
Those old Mercs do not die of natural causes..
Some days they just get a bit cranky
It runs fine when it's out of the water, check my previous videos
Well doesn't that blow!!
Also I don’t know how far you are from Kenosha but I could come give you a hand getting it running
I might take you up on that next spring. Not sure what the issue is.
One step closer!
So close yet so far. Next season it's on like donkey kong
car starting ether , i assume you flooded it by pull ten
Race rack is the answer. You put it on a frame out of the water then the frame drops the boat in the water. We used them in the 1970’s to tune em and start em. Simply build a square frame that locks upright then either drops like a parallelogram when you pull a pin or has a stop on it so you push the boat and the thing drops down into the water.
Are there pics of these anywhere? Sounds like exactly what I need.
Get a hydro with some air traps and pick up more speed
Need to get it running first.... trying to find a trailer this year and come up dry.
Sir. Please listen to Sarah more. Also choke on full then pull three times Choke Off then Start. Second never Run Motor without in Water. Place outboard in a Garbage 🗑 can then work on getting in started at Home? Also it may be A Cold Blood outboard.
Your boat isn't a Mini Max. They didn't have sponsons or the extra piece of plywood in the bottom nose area. Is similar to the Flea... But the sponsons are a bit shallow...???
Did you watch all the other videos? I initially thought it was a mini max, but I found the actual plans/name of the boat and put it in some of hte video descriptions.
Hey Guy's, Make a saw horse "H" let it fall forward as the boat takes-off.
Bummer man.
Yup.
Could not go wrong with Fireball
Is this the winter drink?
50 degrees standing in water = good enough
You need a 15 hp. 1968 Merc
Get her started while its in the water but on the trailer. Oncd she fires, spin the motor around and have it back you off the trailer.
where is the 50 mph part?
Apparently a few months into the future. :|
First thing, move the wife away from the boat, Set the throttle at wide open . Aim the boat straight out into the lake, pull the choke ,when it fires, push in the choke. Head out. Then try to get it on plain and set the high speed needle to its peak RPM and open a 1/4 turn and leave it .Slow down to 3 MPH and set the low speed. After that it should be close to where it wants to be. Your whole problem was you didn't have the throttle high enough to get it moving . You should have been running on the 2nd or 3rd pull of the cord, and off ya go. After the needles are set ,tighten the packing nuts .Then you should be good for the season.
Couldn't get it to fire at all. :(
@@ADDvanced I heard it fire several times in the video at the lake . Throttle was not hi enough
Wow! you were only a few feet, from a good depth of water to chunk that old hunk of junk into.
I'll figure it out....
@@ADDvanced I'm sure you will. Brought back nightmares to all my cranking day. I almost took a hammer to my phone to help you.
Why in the he'll would you keep trying without seeing what's wrong
It would start on land pretty easily. I think the issue is the 1:1 prop drag was too much to pull start; there is no neutral. You pull the cord and the prop spins, and spinning it in air is easier than in water. I was thinking if I could get it to catch, spin it fast enough, it might actually run.
Starting fluid is your friend.
Dont use starting fluid on Two strokes you will score the cylinders and rings
@@madmanmechanic8847 A little dab 'il do ya.
You had to manually warm the cylinder first.
With what?
Spark advance......
Super 10 Hurrcanes make more than 10 horsepower.
Yeah, need to fix that lever.
Did you give up on the boat ? 🤷🙋♂️🖖🏻
No! Update this Sunday!
One more important Thang don't run the dam motor out of the water you will fry the rings before you know it .and more so when you don't know what the f#@$%^your doing
I don't mean out out of the water, but form what I've read it's common to get the lower unit half in the water, and pull start while the boat is sitting on a sawhorse. Once it runs, tip down and take off.
The reason you can't get it to run, is that's not a Hydroplane it's a Tunnel Hull.😀
Yeah, one of the smallest, technically.
Start fluid
First
50mph where ? click bait af, earned that down vote bud
Hey dipshit this is an entire build series, and the goal of the build is to hit 50 w 10hp. There are at least 6 videos on building this boat, tuning the hull bottom for speed, rebuilding the carb, rigging it, and this one. Now please F off and stay off my channel, bud
you always know its a merc. when it wont krank johnson first pull