HOW BAD IS THE ENGINE DAMAGE ON MY AUDI R8??
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ธ.ค. 2022
- CarVertical: www.carvertical.com/gb/landin...
Instagram: Saving_salvage
In today's video we strip down the engine on my damaged Audi R8 and get a price breakdown on potential repair options. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I didn't get a notification 🤬
Just buy a recon engine do water pump and chains
But the best repair would be sleeve the block with steal liners that’s the all round beat option
id look for a smashed front ened r8 tbh
Option 2 you could make more power and hopefully sell it for more because of the steel sleeve
I would go with option 3 used engine, you can always try and inspect it using a small camera on the piston chambers and see if there's any shadows or possible score marks, and then spend the rest on refurbishing it, and would be less of a loss on the purchase...
I agree 👍
I agree too
Agree, scope into the bores to check condition 👍
Yea same, if you can't inspect it before buying then try and get some guarantees from the seller such as a refund if the bores are fu**ed
Endoscope - vast selection available, pull the spark plugs and have a look !
I'd go for the second hand engine, do a compression and bore scope check and possibly replace any iffy bits.
This.
what he said......a second hand engine shouldn't be too risky if you do these checks....Might be worth checking the mileage though..if your engine has done 50k miles and second hand is 150k miles then the resale value is less...
You could have a Cylinder sleeve fitted and reuse the engine
Option 4 is prefered
This is what I would have done.
I'd go for option 1, the new engine because that's what I'd prefer to buy as well... new Audi engine is what you want as a buyer. But also consider this, there are plenty of saleable parts off the old engine, like the other head and bits and pieces that could knock a couple of grand off that price too. If you can negotiate a better deal with your dealer on it too, it'll save you loads of work and headaches and you won't be that far off the cost of the other options.
100% agree, and great logic with selling the useable parts of the old engine!
Could also take him years to get that money back and its alot of money to have tied up in parts to sell one at a time. Plus it'd be a ball ache posting all that. Then returns and refunds. Most people that can afford that car wont buy used parts on the internet etc
Also. If that were an option. Then rhe 2nd hand engine would make more sense. He could, over time potentially make money on the purchase. Obviously check the used engine. Scope it and find out why it was removed etc. Usually there's some warranty with a purchase like that.
Not being an engineering expert in any way I’d lean towards option 4 however if I was buying this car form you I’d know it’s in top condition as you can literally watch it being built from the ground up!
The videos are amazing .. as always good luck with the rebuild!!
Option 3 or 4 -- advantage of 3 you will be left with some spares that could be useful or sold.
Personally I’d go with option 3 but ask if you can have a look at it first and look down all the bores down the spark plug tube, and ask about it’s history.
Yup . boroscope 🍺🍺
Hi Dean. After discovering your channel by chance, I've binge watching all your videos since the beginning. Keep up the good work. As for the R8, in an ideal world the new engine would be the choice but option 4 has the less risk out of the others and you would know what you got in the end. If I were to buy the car, option 4 is what I would prefer. As for the next project, I miss the RS6 and it's a good time to get it back on the road. Cheers!
Great video again Dean, depends on what u are doing with the car after its repaired, I'd go with option 3 but with plenty of checks ie compression test, bore scope etc, good luck.
option 2, steelliners would make the engine capable of taking more power aswell.
I would certainly go with option 4. It what makes you feel comfortable and the same goes for a future owner. The milage of the car vertical check was not so high which therefore applies to all the ancillary parts.
Along with others I'd go for option 3 .....I know its a risk , but surely you're gonna fully inspect it prior to buying it .
But if I was gonna buy the car then I would be more interested in the rebuild option ....whatever you do dean will be awesome and can't wait to see it ....keep going 💪
I would want a complete new engine but it would be hard not to go with option #4.
Hey Dean. Great videos as always. A while back when you did time lapse you explained what you was doing over the top of it. I don't know what others think, but I'd like to hear more of that content mate. 👍
Hi Dean, i would only have 2 options, Option 1 & 3. Option 1 if I'm keeping it, option 3 if I'm selling it. Thanks for all the great video's and great channel.👍👍
I'd pick Option 2 re-liner and new pistons. It will be bullet proof and you are replacing all the damaged stuff that would otherwise be risky. I think it would also be the one that a buyer would be most comfortable with, besides a new engine.
I'm no car mechanic but this is addictive. It reminds me of 'Take Hart' and Morph when I was a kid -especially the sounds. PS - Gotta be Option 3 (should you get a good feeling with /know/trust the seller)
first time ever I've heard a comparison of an engine stripdown and Morph !.... 😀
Great video. Not a nice dilemma at all 🤔 Option 4 for me, as a safe bet, followed by option 2. Good luck with what ever you decide and am really looking forward to the rest of this series 👍👍
Option 2 or 4 would be the best content and also on resale at a later day, great content as always, you need a oil burner to heat your workshop- uses all your used oil
Well another excellent channel dealing with my life's love, motor cars.
Back in the 80's and early 90's I used to rebuild damaged repairable high end Japanese sports cars, approx 15 all told, but they were not anywhere near as complicated as the vehicles are now. However what I always did was examine the vehicle from all angles and aspects, and find out what damage was apparent then took loads of photos Bonus print made a fortune out of me. Then I would scrupulously clean the engine bay and damaged area with a power washer and or a steam cleaner. This in my mind made the whole dismantle and rebuild process so much easier. One thing to add though I only bought cars that were 4 years old or newer, it made removing rusted bolts etc so much easier.
For your dilemma, I would go for opt 4 but build in a 20>25% cost increase in your estimate, so you would be looking at approx £10k plus, but have the assurance of knowing that most things are covered and at 40k miles its worth the risk and half the cost of a new engine. Unless of course you can find a unicorn with more or less the same mileage with structural damage.
Good luck with the project, I am enjoying your production and have subscribed.
New engine from Audi, but this depends on the total value of the car once completed. Great vid as always, good luck with all your projects Dean :)
Option four for me from both perspectives. From a buyers viewpoint it’s the damaged components have been replaced and all other components have been check during disassembly and assembly.
From your perspective the devil you know is better than the devil you don’t. Appreciate it’s not the cheapest option but it is the safest and can also be used as a selling point.
Long time viewer here Dean. Been following since the 8p rs3! Like a lot of other people I would echo how nice its been seeingyour Chanel grow and your production values get better.
As far as options go I'd definatly rebuild and re sleeve. It's not that much more than a clean short block and if you upgrade pistons, rods, bearings as well as sleeves with a reliable builder the engine will come back stronger and be good for a twin turbo project. With a manual box a tt setup it'll be a pretty awesome build and faster/lighter than the v10. Would make for good content seeing the sleeving process and adding twin turbos too! If plans to keep it stock then go snew short block and head from audi. Seems a missed opportunity not to build it up if the engines out...
I would buy the car with the brand new engine, if you’re selling the car on , you will definitely attract buyers with a higher price as will have a new factory built engine & I’ll guess some kind of warranty
I would go with option 3...but like others have said..borescope, compression check,pull all the plugs and get one if possible with a full service history...Also...let's see the next project....👍👍👍👍
Agree with above as the best option. If that doesn't work out, I'd suggest refurbishing the existing block with steel cylinder liners and adding new forged pistons/conrods. Then you'd have a bulletproof engine that should last longer than Audi's original design, and that would also add more value to the car.
@@DJDinaggio Converting to steel cylinder liners is very risky. Saw on another channel something similar (but can remember if it was allu block with steel cylinder or the other way around) and after 1000 km engine got destroyed. Because of difference in heat expansion of steel vs allu cylinders, your piston ring gaps should also differ from what Audi states in their repair manual for a allu cylinder with the stock piston.
@@mihai-bogdanmagdalina8492 Possibly www.youtube.com/@M539Restorations/videos
@@cccpkingu correct
Option 4 I would go for
Love your work really excited about this build 👊👍
I would go for option 3. You could still buy all the gasket, seals and timing kits and do a full inspection on the bores. The issue surrounding your particular engine seems to be limited to the valve damaging the top of the bore, most likely as a direct result of the loose cam bolt and the timing skipping. For comparison, I believe the Range Rover Evoque of a certain year range has a similar issue with cam bolts coming loose and they aren’t usually found until the engine needs new timing chains and guides. The original ones are supposed to be pretty low quality.
At least with a known running engine you could do the all of the work to replace gaskets, seals etc, with new parts and know that the engine will be good. Thread lock the cam bolts for peace of mind and you should be good. You would also save a good bit of cash too and that would translate to more money in the sale of the car at a later date.
For option 4 you should also factor in at least a couple of Conrods as when you have valve heads bouncing around in the combustion chamber there's a good chance you could bend them. Can I make a suggestion you may want to consider having the bores looked at, at an aluminium bore specialist and having them bored or honed out and re nikasil plated (depends on the depth of the damage)
Also the crankshaft bearings might have been slightly indented. That would lead to a failiure after a couple hundred miles.
these engines are not nikasil plated. they use an aluminum alloy called Alusil that is high in silicon. The bore surface is honed using a paste that etches the aluminum but leaves the little microscopic silicon nodules. This creates a perfect surface on the bores for oil to stick. These cannot be honed or plated in the traditional manner
If I was re building I’d probably go for 3+ rebuild. If I was buying I’d like option 1 or option 4
Love what you do, bloody amazing and frankly ballsy !
Would go with Option 3. Some checks if possible. Great videos 👍
Hi mate
I would go for a complete new engine as there could be other issues
Keep up the good vids
And deduct any money for selling the existing engine parts
Option 4 seems the most logical in the price vs. risk comparison
Love ur videos! I like option 3 if I was in your position. Although I would problem solve the risk assessment. Not sure the situation but if u can get your hands on it, pull plugs scope the cylinder walls and pistons, rotate the engine to verify no binding, check oil, ect. Lower your risk by confirming integrity. And slap that used good engine in for a bigger profit margins!
Option 4 for me - the best balance of cost vs outcome. Yes the used lump is cheaper, but it's just a used lump and without a detailed inspection you could be buying anything. I can't work out if you are brave or just mad taking this one on - but you'll get there 👍
Option 4 seems to be the best choice managing cost and risk.
option 3+ sounds the most ok from a cost point of view and if you can inspect it or have a warranty that it was running fine should be ok
4 it’s a no brainer ya have a brand new engine for the price of a reshelved engine so I would go option 4
Hi Dean, Ref Engine rebuild.. I'd stay well away from another second hand engine, their engine could be as close to snapping valves as your engine has done.. New engine would be a cracking good idea, sadly cost is well out there for it.. New liners and pistons again ... Good idea on cost .. but again, not my choice.. I'd go with new crank case ( only when your Old engine is stripped ) the crank Main and Little end bearings hve been checked and the connecting rods checked .. If anything is scored to deap .. then I'd look at a short block and have the head work done on new and old head to allow same size head gaskets to be used....... Keep up the good work.. Will be nice to hear it run again... Andy
I'd agree with others. Used engine but with a guarantee. Looking forward to whichever option you choose. Will be good content.
For me, it would be option 4. But if the cost was issue, then 3+. Least with 4 you can inspect the rest of the engine and replace anything you don't like the look of. The used engine always runs the risk of something you didn't check failing and the engine having to come out again. I guess the final decision comes down to what you plan to do with the car afterwards and how much each option eats into any value of the vehicle when it's sold.
I would go with option 4 Dean it will make good content for the channel
Option 3, I did the similar with my a5 that smashed valves but I just put fitted the engine as it was and it’s been alright
Great video and I admire you for tackling this project. Not confident to recommend but you will make the right one. 👍👍👍👍
No doubts about going for the second hand engine. You still have a long way to go rebuilding and you know the components you have to work with have suffered some serious mechanical stresses, not to mention heat. There is the question around why it happened in the first place too. The loose nut! So, having just been faced with a similar issue in the last several weeks, I would go for the used engine, but be picky about where you get if from. Finally, I am a likely buyer for this kind of car. The option I would be most happy with is the used engine with provenance. The car is used, and has clearly had a issue. The engine rebuild is unproven, whereas a used engine from an identified damaged vehicle is a no brainer. Personally, I would walk away from anything less. That's just my penny's worth.
Secondhand engine And Bore scope it etc
I would go with option 2 as the fact that it is future proofed and has 8 new pistons and rods. I personally think that would be a good selling point
Really? I thought that was the worst option of the lot. Audi never designed this high performance engine to use steel liners. The work is highly risky and doesn’t guarantee a reliable product in the end.
My father and I buy and sell cars and I have been on the website and nearly bought an r8 last year that needed body/ shell repair these videos are a great start for when I decide the make the jump
What a guy to watch, his knowledge is brilliant, and knows his stuff
Personally I'd do option 3 if it's a complete engine etc. Plenty of spares then too
I feel your pain Dean. It has to be a secondhand engine!
I would go option 3 but see if you can do a compression test on it and get a camera down to look at the bores.
Brilliant video again, really enjoyed the honesty.... Solution.. No clue, 2nd hand engine with rebuild maybe?...
I'd be picking option 4 Dean. You don't know the history of the secondhand engine so why risk it, plus you know this one had low miles before the engine failure and it makes sense to rebuild it with all new parts. Even if you have to spend a few quid more it'll be practically a new engine again, not a part secondhand one. GL with your choice I look forward to watching the builds :)
Hi,
Does option 1 come with an Audi warranty? If so this is a plus when you come to sell it.
They wouldn't come with warranty if they don't install it... And if it is a salvage, probably not even if they install it.
Option 3 in my mind, thoroughly check out the second hand engine though. To me all options have various elements of risk. I assume you are planning on selling it, you need to look at your numbers, could you get the extra spend back in the sale as option 4 as this is always going to be the buyers preferred option. Great videos, good luck.
Option 4 - crankcase rebuild for me Dean. I've tried a second hand engine twice in other cars and both times they failed quite quickly so think thats far too risky.
Hi Dean - I was leaning towards the 'ebay' engine, until you said which option would I be happy to buy. Therefore, it has to be your favourite - option 4. Looking forward to the content, whichever way you end up going. Love the channel, and look forward to every episode....😁
Option 3 Dean , as others say due diligence is a must . Must be a few crashed damaged ones out there with good engines in them
Well you have to consider what kind of a car it is too and its a 99.99% chance it has been driven very hard so the entire drivetrain need a very thorough check by an expert and odds are money will fly....
@@MrKveite1 well to me it would all depend on whether I intended to keep the car myself or get it roadworthy and move it on
@@johnwren5516 yes, i meant that for viewers that could possibly be interested in buying one. You already know this...
From your perspective as the builder, I immediately thought re-bore the cylinder out, didn’t realise it was that difficult! From a buyer perspective, I think would be happiest with the new engine from audi, however that isn’t the most cost effective for you
Hi Dean I have just started watching your channel and really enjoy it. Going back over the older builds it can be difficult to get the correct order of the videos as the may just have a description I did miss a few of the RS4. I know some do have the PT1 PT2 etc. Going forward could you have a more structured title eg Make Model and video number and then video title. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I would suggest option 3 but make sure the engine has a one year guarantee.
Option 3, think it's worth the risk.
Option 1 of course! But for TH-cam content you must go with option 4....
Great video!! Keep it up
Another great, in depth video. Knowing you’d rebuilt it, I’d go for option 4 tbh.
Hiya Dean, at the risk of getting shot down here is the Audi V8 not used in other Audi models through the range? If you just need a block/bottom end is it feasible to use one from another Audi model car if they are the same? M539 restorations did this when he rebuilt his V8.
I would go for the second hand engine depending on its history then thoroughly go through it, so 5k plus all the servicing and checks.
Great video Dean, It a tough one. Option 3 makes a lot of sense, chances are a second hand engine has come from a crashed damaged car, the engines at the back so no engine damage also they are not an everyday car so it won't have spaceship mileage on it' obviously do what ever checks before paying for it. Option 4 would be my second choice. Good luck mate.
You're doing a really good job and I really like the honesty, well done. From the point of view of buying the car there would be no contest, I wouldn't buy one with a secondhand engine of unknown mileage/origin, conversely a brand-new engine would be a fantastic selling point so you would recover a good chunk of the extra cost. A new crank case and head fitted to this engine would be my second choice, since then all the numbers would still match, at this point since the engine is being rebuilt there may be some improvements that could made for reliability and/or performance, these could be selling points.
Thinking about the cost and risk involved with the other options I’d go with 4
Yep , right choice I think
Agree, less risk associated. More risk could mean more expenditure.
I would go option 3 as long as you got a warranty on the engine. 👍🇦🇺 great vid
I would go for option: resleeve the block, if in future something would go wrong, then a rebore could still be an option
option 2 - if we could see the whole machining process. would be amazing. and if your doing new pistons and rods....could go something a bit more spesh over standard.
Going with the crankcase based option would keep the system as standard - a buyer would prefer that in my view. Keep up the good work!
option 4 seems like the best one depending on the buyers POV
Sounds like option 1 to me new engine,it would turn me more to buy it with a new engine
Great content for us either way. option 3 for me Second hand engine. Its got to be but depends on where your getting the engine from as you haven't said where.
Option 4 seems the best as you know what you are dealing with. Problem with option 3+ is that sod’s law will dictate that the used engine you are rebuilding will need a component that you have already broken or worn out on the original engine. Also the car will still have the same engine number it was shipped with. Like the pace and the way you do the videos.
I think id be tempted by option 3, plenty checks like compression and a look down the bores then give it a refresh to make sure everything's sweet. New tensioners etc
He's nor asking why you think he should do he's asking if you were buying the audi what would you prefer. New engine obviously 🙄
@Andy eh? He also said excluding option 1 if you want to be a smart arse about it 😂
Go and look at the other engine always worth a look maybe a deal can be made
I'm so invested in this one XD. also option 3 but I'd either get the seller to give as much information of it's history and see if you could look for yourself with a boroscope
I would go for option 3 and check the engine carefully, possibly with a camera to look at the piston liners, if possible take the oil pan down and check there, look in the oil filters
Option 2. Rather have a steel bore than an alloy one. Whatever you do is going to cost big bucks, get the heads polished & ported whilst you're at it. That car will still make you money!
Got to be option 3!! Depending on the milage on the used engine.
Option 4 would be better for resale, at least it’s more or less a newish engine bore wise, great videos mate
Yes I would go for rebuild new new crank case etc,if I was buying it, I would be happy with option 1 or 4 mate!👍
Option 3 and take a look inside all of the cylinders to look at the state of the valves, honing and other symptoms. Do you know why the engine is for sale? Could have been in a frontal crash. Your preferred option 4 sounds more of a money pit than you might realise. If I was a potential buyer for this car I'd be happy with option 3 or 3+, if you had to address issues with the 2nd hand engine.
But what do I know 😊
I'd go with option 4, the new crankcase, rather than a second hand engine which could also render you with nothing but 5k out of pocket. option 4 at least gives a known good crankcase, so thats at least that worry free, and its cheaper than a fully new engine.
er no, if its knacked it can be sold on,
So if yoy were buying it you would prefer this option over option 1??? 🤔
@@Andy-dz1jv well since its the most cost/risk logical thing to do, I would understand his point to rather use option 4 than option 1, cuz for option 1 he could also sell it for more ofc with the audi warranty and stuff, but still, I think option 4 would be better cost effectively. I just dont think he will get a completely new engine out of the cars sale price. But then again, what do I know, from his standpoint, I'd still choose option 4, not too risky, not too expensive.
plus it would in my opinion make for a more interesting video, just hoist a new engine in thats it, or a complete rebuild of the engine with a new crankcase and cilinder head.
I would be in favour of option 3 if the seller can give you assurances of it's condition. At this stage you have no idea what has caused this failure and a similar story to the RS4 V8 rebuild. Great video, love the level of detail, not too light and very engaging. I wonder what the value of the old engine with it's known condition would be on the open market? I would be happiest with the car knowing this.
Safest in my mind opt 4, although 3 and 3 plus are viable too. Love the channel btw.
What would the resell value of the R8 be after successful engine repair/replace?
No different to any other. Any R8 could of had major repair work done to it. A new engine would increase the value slightly. A rebuilt one with a new crankcase would retain value. As long as everything works as it should.
@@SavingSalvage It's not "could of" it's "could have".
@@travisash8180 no one cares, he is fixing cars - not teaching English
@@Sydney268 Some people care and he is speaking/typing English.
@@travisash8180 shut up. Don't you have something better to do?
What about a LS crate motor swap? Nice project and very tuneable.
As a buyer I would be most happy with option 4
Yes keep busy on other projects, enjoying your videos 😂
Option 4 for me in a purchase option....Cheers Dean...love the content..
I think I would go for option 4 or do an LS swap.
Option 4 is the best option and the best content!
Convert to steel. Option 1 for me, but out of the remaining convert. Thanks for the channel.
3+ definitely. Got to be some comeback if the seller says it’s good and it turns out to be goosed. Great channel btw mate looks like your having fun. 👍🏼
Option 4 for me, was hoping all was ok 😩 love the content.
Great video Dean, l would go for option 4, at least you know the history to sell.
No to 1 or 2 imho. 3/3+ seems like the best bet. Sounds like the only option with potential for price negotiation too. You can test compression to gauge secondhand engine health - you just need a good battery and a starter. Best of luck Dean.
Option 5. Squirt a couple of tubes of Holts Piston Seal down the plug hole, and that should sort the bore out! Worked for me on my 197 Villiers engine, then sell it quick smart.