Put the wheels back to stock, I'd definitely agree. That cylinder doesn't look right compared to the others, so I'd have to go rings, especially if the head tests OK. Either way, it's a great buy, and im sure you'll have it sorted in the next video or two...
I saw it on the video. Cylinder 2 had siezed piston on TDC. There were scuff marks on the opposite side of where the burn marks were. Additionaly it had vertical scuffmarks to the left. Replace the piston rings. The piston may leak on the scuff marks. Check the cylinder wall for deformation.
My guess is a broken ring land. Pretty common ea888 issue. Looks like that piston may have been rocking a bit in the bore and glazed it slightly as well.
I had a very similar issue with the CESA AE888 last year. Turned out the oil control ring had blocked up causing the piston the lower end of the piston to blow out, couldnt see any damage from the top. Nice easy job to do once the engines out. I replaced all 4 pistons for ones our of gen 3 AE888 as they have wider openings on the oil control rings to prevent it in the future
Put the camshafts back in the cilinder head, and turn them to see if the valve are closing properly. Pay attention on camshafts, if lobes are press fitted,the lobes might be in the wrong position(usually happens after a timing issue ;valves,pistons and camshafts interfere) Camshaft lobes must be 90 degrees delayed,clockwise, in firing order 1-3-4-2,cilinder 1 is the one next to timing chain. Example:cilinder 1 first lobe of intake camshaft must be 90 degrees delayed compared to cilinder 3 first lobes of intake camshaft . Another thing that you can do is to turn the engine until all pistons are in the centre, and put same amount of petrol in each of them,and watch how fast goes in cilinder 2 compared to the other ones.
For many car nuts you are living the dream life, hardship yes but man you are busy with fine cars! I respect your ongoing endeavor and perseverance to keep on going with so many hurdles! My guess, given the black rims, somebody drove this car fast for too long - probably oil starvation at the piston breaking the compression ring...
I had the same problem on my TTs project (see my TTs playlist). It turned out to be the rings. One of the compression rings had four breaks in them which were enough to cause zero compression. I saw in your video that you had a slight score mark in cylinder two, the same as what I had. When I removed the piston, the ring had broken into pieces but stayed intact.
Keep going. This was never going to be as easy as a coil pack or spark plug. The binnacle showed service due, and yet it was obvious that hands had been on the plastics recently. This will be a good car for someone after your work!
@16:45 there appears to be aluminium deposits on the bore which is indicative of a piston seizure. I've raced two stroke karts for several decades and we get these all the time. The ring will be stuck into the piston land and you'll have no compression. You'll need to strip the bottom end of the motor, take the crank out and confirm with that piston. I'd then bore all the cylinders and replace all the pistons and rings.
I've seen the exact thing on an Audi 1.6 57 reg had a slight misfire, using a borescope with side camera saw those exact "burn" marks near the top only on the misfire cylinder when it was stripped down, the compression rings were broken in 2 places
' I hope this is a one video car' ... This is what is known in engineering terms as scope creep 😅👌 love the car and that interior. Well worth saving. Wheels back to stock ftw.
Hi dean think it’s the piston rings I did an Audi 100 in 1980 it was a 1975/76 car and it had marking like that on only one cylinder it turned out to be the rings only good thing about the car I did was I did not have half the crap to take off and I had a lot more room in the engine bay keep up the great work you have my luck as I always say if it was not for bad luck I would not have any.
Having got into the engine that far i think i would check number two piston! Definitely a bit of silver on the wheels. Looking forward to the next video
The cylinderhead may be warped. It would still be nice to do a leaktest on the cylinderhead. Just put back the spark plugs and fill the chambers with petrol. Check after one hour if the petrol level dropped.
Mk2 rear headlights have a notorius factory issue with the ground wire. Where the ground wire meets the jack, it would melt the jack. Make sure to pull bouth rear headlights out (2min job) and check the jack. If there is any indication of overheating on the pin for the ground then just drill into the plastic of the back of the headlight to find the "metal rods" that carry the ground, put a screw with washers and create a bypass from that bolt directly to the ground wire (bypassing the jack completely). It takes 15 minutes, I did it myself and it worked for years, still probably does but I sold the car 6months ago. But defientely check if this process has started in your car and let me know if you need more specific instructions on the solution.
That No2 bore looks very glazed to me, hone marks visible on all except No2. Been useful if you had carried out a cylinder leakage test before removing head. I’m guessing ring problem.
I'm not really a car person but I love your vids, I'm the type of person who buys a Rolex online and when it comes it's either a Timex or Durex, I think you're carrying the same luck as me. Love the frustration in your voice.
Be a ring land for sure, Mahle pistons of that year apparently had a manufacture problem and were particularly susceptible to pre detonation or knocking due to insufficient octane fuel being used
I was watching Elvis (wheeler) He had same sort issue with focus rs one cylinder down on pressure, He put that cylinder TDC power stroke and pumped compressed air in s/plug hole and listened where air was escaping in this case it was leaking to crancase and was piston ring/bore problem.., Engine out rebore! Maybe you can fill combustion chamber and cylinder with fuel to see if either drain away? Cool car thou.
Looking at that close-up of the wheel you had. It kinda looks like there's been some JB-weld patching done on one of the spokes... which would explain why they couldn't keep the milled finish. Looking at the bores, I see a couple of vertical score marks which makes me think you've cracked a ring or ringland.
I suppose you could leak down test but you have the head if memory serves drop the sump remove pistons and do a light hone with new rings, you’re going to have head checked I presume,don’t just love cars!, good work 👍
Definetly put the wheels back to stock. They look best that way.. Also you already should change compression ring. You already in there. Don't want to put it all together and find out you need to re do all the work for the compression ring.
Bore looks very shiny, pour some thin oil in the bore to see if it leaks through. Check the cam lobes and valves, is it possible that something has moved and inlet and exhaust are open at the same time?
Dean , +1 for ringland , just had one the same (golf gti) . Like you , swapped coil packs , compression tested and scoped the bore . Replaced engine with a “good one” from ENGINES OD which turned out to be worse than the one I was replacing . They wouldn’t refund . If you or anyone needs an engine , please don’t use ENGINES OD
A possibility ? I did one of these recently with the exact same problem , when thrashed to the point of valve bounce the rockers can jump out. this can easily be missed as its quite easy to think the rocker fell as the cam was lifted
Cylinder 2 piston looks like it could be rocking at the top of it's stroke. As it leans towards you, water is getting past the head gasket and into the cylinder (brown mark = rust?) and the mark on the cylinder wall nearest to you looks like a score mark made by the piston scraping it?
Have you checked the rod isnt bent? These have bad oil consumption problems. I would hedge towards a piston to be honest, with it having such different marks on the bore. Ive just done a q3 with this engine, changed 2 bent rods. What a complete pain in the backside to do. I gave up trying to pull head off in place for the same reasons you found. Took whole lump out instead & glad i did, as it was a full strip down to put rods in. They have the crazy split sump that inhibits so much what you can do. Good luck with it, but like i say. I would look at piston. If you take the lower sump off, you can actually access no 2 & no 3 rod bolts with upper sump in place. Its tight to do, but possible.
Put the plugs back in and pour some petrol/wd40 in the top chamber area wee if it loses any fluid. Also on another note is cylinder 2 a possible weak spot as cars for Paul done a tt and I am sure it was no2 that had failed but his had scoring. Guess you could set the engine to mid way and pour fluid in the cylinders and see how quick it leaks back to the sump as you will be changing the oil anyway.
I've seen broken hydraulic lifters on this era engine. Have you checked them to make sure they're not broken? Also, should have got a cylinder leak tester on it before taking the head off, could have saved you a whole load of time and might have given you some direction on where the compression was going. Best of luck with it mate.
pour some anti-freeze or diesel in intake ports and then exhaust ports and see if it leaks past valves. Wear marks on bore on top front of cylinder dont look right.
Full cylinders with diesel, if cylinder 2 drops down rings or ring lands. I had an st3 that I couldn’t see an issue with, bored still looked mint. Filled the bores with kerosene and the one with an issue dropped down. Pulled piston out and half the ring lands were gone
As always Dean, you're already there! Slap a set of rings in it mate. No room for error. Doing head gasket and chain kit. Don't want to do that turbo too many times in you're life!! 💯
It seems some kind os piston slap, check the pistons wrists, it might have oil starvation issues, on engines like these it's good to do a good flush clear all the oil galleries etc.
I’ve had problems with injectors sticking open and bore washing. Doesn’t look like you can see much cross hatching looks a bit shiny on the video. Also silly as it sounds Check the cam shaft I’ve also had a lobe turn keeping the valve open . Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Dean, I think it's time to invest in a 2nd 2-post lift, may take a bit of juggling to get it in the workshop. Could always put Trev (TVR) in a container to give you room. Great content as usual, wheel defo need to go back to stock, diamond cut will just make it pop even more, plus people who would be attracted to buying such a car would prefer the stock look I think.
blown away with your moaning... you just got a great deal on the car that's worth 15k when fixed. Stay positive brother Dean and enjoy the project, you'll be rewarded for your effort... that's for sure. Remember this.
That is real set back working on a car that show no direct problem......What don t understand is why some parts are so difficult to remove, like that heat child and the turbo. Is there a reason for, because mechanics in the old days hate to work on French or Italian cars because they where so complicated to work with. Now we have a German car and there is no different with the French and the Italian because they are also s+ht to work on... Still a very nice car and one thing is for sure you will fix this car at they end !!!!
Isn't it quite typical for those motors to have the oil separator rings fail because of carbon buildup then brake the rings or the ring-gap in the piston? Those scratches on the top of the cylinder wall might hint to that, too. Maybe the piston is tilting on tdc. Maybe take a look at the lower part of the cylinder wall on the opposite side.
With all that compression passing the piston rings, when running.. i'd think it would have blown the dipstick out and tried to blow the sump oil everywhere .. looks more like a blown cylinder head gasket... Keep up the good work Budd.. Stay Safe Oot There ..
Looking at cylinder 2 compared to the rest it appears as if the ring line is about double the distance from the top of the block. Could just be because the comp ring is toast and its stuck in the ring land or the rod is bent slightly and the piston isnt reaching all the way up. If the comp ring was completely toast it wouldnt have even made the 1 bar of pressure surely?
I’ve had this on r56 cooper S minis. Remove the piston and check for broken ring land. We rebuild minis and it’s very common. My next move would be to remove the piston for inspection. Cheers. Keep up the great videos. I really enjoy them Stephen
That must be rings, from what I can see the H.gasket has a good seal all around, and you have some scoring in the bore, best check is to put and equal amount of fluid in each cylinder [diesel petrol mix] leave it for 3 to 4 hours and see which one drops first. Anyway best to have the piston out just check ✔️
The #2 bore looks to have less honing crosshatching and a lot more shiny than the other 3. Did you take the oil filler cap off with the engine running to see if the valve stems seals were good and not pressurising under the rocker cover?
Put fuel in head see if valves are leaking, same for piston, number 2 bore looks polished unless it’s the light, might indicate leaking injector? My guess is gonna need at least a set of rings, maybe piston too, worst case, rebore/rebuild
Great vlog and great car as always Dean, it still amazes me how you remember to put it all back together like new…hats off to you Sir….if you service it will you be renewing the transmission oil/fluid as I think this would be interesting to watch and learn……kind regards to you Mark from Billericay 👍😀🇬🇧🇬🇧
What engine is it? CDNA, CDNB, CDNC? For these, or up to 2012 model year, there are modified pistons available. These suffered from oil consumption which led to rings seizing and possibility to break off parts of the piston. The combustion marks on the top of the cylinder are a tell tale sign of blow by.
Is it not just quicker dropping the engine/gearbox completely at this point? Turbo out in situ is a ballache when you know a bottom end rebuild is needed? Just drop the whole thing and save your poor back? Definitely agree, back to OEM with diamond cut!
I can't say enough how much I enjoy ya videos , you are very knowledgeable and good at what you do so thank you for the entertainment. Wheels need to go back to factory spec definitely.
Pour petrol into the cylinder and see if it leaks down into the sump? Does the oil smell of petrol already? You could have done a similar petrol leak test on the head but fair enough sending it away for a full refurb. If piston rings replace all 4 cylinder sets since presumably all from the same batch so could fail in the future? How easy to get the sump off so you can get the pistons/con rods out? Looks a nice well looked after car - becoming collectable so buyers will want originality hence diamond cut alloys. You should still make good money on it.
Serious graft there. I'd have a look at ring gap/bore more closely due to that smear creeping down the bore and not being 'wiped'. A total ball ache but you'll get to the root of it! 🚲
I would add some petrol into each bore and see what happens to piston 2 compared to the others. Also, check the lobes on the cam shaft in case no 2 has spun. If I were to have a bet, I would say rings. Nice car though!
idea: Put the cylinder to top dead centre, then back it down 3 mm. Pour in some engine oil into the cylinder (top it off to the top) and wait a couple of days. If it leaks down through the rings, you'll see the level drop?
If it's engine code CAEB, CDNC OR CNDC, then it's most likely faulty piston rings. If not one of those engine codes, and you suspect head gasket, then there should be tell tale signs in the oil and coolant. Smell and inspect coolant reservoir for traces of oil impregnation. Inspect oil for color change and possible sweet smell from coolant.
Is the little screen on the cam bridge still there? If it flew thru maybe got stuck in cylinder 2 and caused all your issues. That happened on my 09 Audi A3 which has the same exact engine. Mine skipped timing and 3 valves were bent. Also all exhaust valve seals were gone at 143K miles.
Or oil vapours from crankcase are escaping from crankcase past the rings. If the PCV has fatigued (which is highly likely) then that may cause higher then normal crankcase pressures which combined with possible faulty rings can produce those residual tracing on the cylinder wall. Remember the Audi 2.0T from 2007 to 2015 was notorious for this. It's the Audi engine that carbons up the fastest out of all their engines next to the S8 V10.
Great video Dean! Can't help on the Cyl #2 problems, did I miss the head gasket inspection in the video??? Definitely back to stock for the wheels - they look dreadful in all black,
I think issue with top rings. Wheels go back to stock. They would really stand out and make the car look more modern and with all the other special specs on it.👍👍👍
Looks like a nice car Dean and don't say you are going to have a pretty easy fix are you 😂, diamond cut alloy wheels definitely, don't like complete black wheels on anything, myself, love it when you and other mechanics say simply remove this or that, I honestly struggle with anything on car's 😂😂
Put the wheels back to stock mate. And i think oil is getting past the rings. Sump off , piston out by the looks of it. The thing is?? Do you do all four and would you then change the big end shell as well?? Have fun!!!
I think it’s Carbon build up on rings, they might be broken also. Did you check crankcase pressure when running as there should have been excessive back pressure if it’s the rings? Put the wheels back to stock, the all black doesn’t suit but nice car.
As said, leave light oil in overnight, though I guess you already know the outcome.. (with diddly no compression and no obvious signs of head gasket ). Quick check of bore dimensions, (though looks OK on film). Remove number 2 piston, check rings and lands..and liner. Rebuild in half the time.. Jobs a good un. Oh, OEM wheels.
Stock diamond cut wheels defo. I think it the piston rings Den on cylinder 2 as it doesn’t look like the head gasket has gone. Look forward to finding out what it is. See you in your next video
I'd bet on top ring stuck due to collapsed or carboned ring groove in the piston. I'd count the bore not looking totally murdered being a lottery win. Easy valve test when head is off, chuck the spark plugs in and turn it upside down in the parts washer. Fill the combustion chambers to the brim and then leave it 5 mins.
I'm going broken top ring, as if you look at the carbon around the top of bore 2 it hasn't got the clear straight line 6mm from the top indicating the top ring is not touching the bore at this position. the even line at 10mm down is as far as the 2nd ring travels indicating this ring is OK. Looking at the bore could get away with sump off, piston out, hone and reassembly. but having now shown it on TH-cam everyone will know what's been done 😮👍
I would have tried the old diesel past the rings method, crank until all pistons are half way and put an inch of diesel in a good cylinder and the dodgy cylinder and watch for the speed of loss past the rings.
I'm pretty sure it's the ring land. EA888's are know for having issues with that in generation 1 and 2. I assume this car had a huge oil consumption for a long time (I had 1+ liter/1000km with my A4), due to clogged holes in the rings and that might eventually led to a broken or displaced ring.
That same thing happened to me 2 months ago, longitudinal 2.0 tfsi, sudden loss of compression, same errors, no hissing sound or anything, but turned out piston heat belt (between 1 and 2 rings) gave up, so rings no longer stayed in place, losing all of the compression.
A leak down test might have given some more clues before digging in, also recommend a steerable borescope so you can look back up at the valves if you’re buying a new one.
Oh Dean!!! You don't half pick 'em !!! Seems strange one ring would go so completely while the others look OK. Have you gone back to Audi to get a full history as there might be a historical problem on the car? Regarding the wheels they look abysmal. Take them back to factory spec or sell them to part finance something really tasty. As always good luck and thanks for the video. Cheers, Bob
If you got it for half resale price could be a good car to push out with the honest diagnosis for someone wanting a 'engine upgrade' project. As for wheels definitely diamond cut looks better
Really nice car. Diamond cut wheels. New piston rings on all cylinders, clean the head, New timing chain and gaskets. And it will be worth a lot of pounds.
Go back to stock on the wheels..... They look dreadful all black
Agree with you there. Rotors are some of the best looking Audi alloys ever and to black out the signature details ruins them.
in most cases I think black wheels are crap
@@SaltimusMaximus agreed bud I hate black wheels
Diamond cut wheels look much better than just black.
100% agree
Put the wheels back to stock, I'd definitely agree. That cylinder doesn't look right compared to the others, so I'd have to go rings, especially if the head tests OK. Either way, it's a great buy, and im sure you'll have it sorted in the next video or two...
I saw it on the video. Cylinder 2 had siezed piston on TDC. There were scuff marks on the opposite side of where the burn marks were. Additionaly it had vertical scuffmarks to the left. Replace the piston rings. The piston may leak on the scuff marks. Check the cylinder wall for deformation.
My guess is a broken ring land. Pretty common ea888 issue. Looks like that piston may have been rocking a bit in the bore and glazed it slightly as well.
could be right
i think ur right sump out no 2 piston out,new rings ......sorted
Nope! Head gasket has been leaking oil
I watch most if not all your work and appreciate just how much work that goes into repairs and maintenance. Keep up the good work.
I had a very similar issue with the CESA AE888 last year. Turned out the oil control ring had blocked up causing the piston the lower end of the piston to blow out, couldnt see any damage from the top. Nice easy job to do once the engines out. I replaced all 4 pistons for ones our of gen 3 AE888 as they have wider openings on the oil control rings to prevent it in the future
Put the camshafts back in the cilinder head, and turn them to see if the valve are closing properly.
Pay attention on camshafts, if lobes are press fitted,the lobes might be in the wrong position(usually happens after a timing issue ;valves,pistons and camshafts interfere)
Camshaft lobes must be 90 degrees delayed,clockwise, in firing order 1-3-4-2,cilinder 1 is the one next to timing chain.
Example:cilinder 1 first lobe of intake camshaft must be 90 degrees delayed compared to cilinder 3 first lobes of intake camshaft .
Another thing that you can do is to turn the engine until all pistons are in the centre, and put same amount of petrol in each of them,and watch how fast goes in cilinder 2 compared to the other ones.
It's definitely worth popping the piston out and have a look.
Plus a Quick hone. Great video 👍🏻
I love how casual you are about pulling the engine apart.
Definitely take out number 2 piston it's probably cracked between the rings
For many car nuts you are living the dream life, hardship yes but man you are busy with fine cars! I respect your ongoing endeavor and perseverance to keep on going with so many hurdles! My guess, given the black rims, somebody drove this car fast for too long - probably oil starvation at the piston breaking the compression ring...
I had the same problem on my TTs project (see my TTs playlist). It turned out to be the rings. One of the compression rings had four breaks in them which were enough to cause zero compression. I saw in your video that you had a slight score mark in cylinder two, the same as what I had. When I removed the piston, the ring had broken into pieces but stayed intact.
Keep going. This was never going to be as easy as a coil pack or spark plug. The binnacle showed service due, and yet it was obvious that hands had been on the plastics recently. This will be a good car for someone after your work!
@16:45 there appears to be aluminium deposits on the bore which is indicative of a piston seizure. I've raced two stroke karts for several decades and we get these all the time. The ring will be stuck into the piston land and you'll have no compression. You'll need to strip the bottom end of the motor, take the crank out and confirm with that piston. I'd then bore all the cylinders and replace all the pistons and rings.
A draw down test may have been the way to go to see where the leak is, i.e. inlet valves or exhaust valves , or passing the pistons in to the sump
Leave some oil in the cylinder and see if it leaks out.
I would use kerosene
What would the viscosity of kerosene be
I've seen the exact thing on an Audi 1.6 57 reg had a slight misfire, using a borescope with side camera saw those exact "burn" marks near the top only on the misfire cylinder when it was stripped down, the compression rings were broken in 2 places
' I hope this is a one video car' ... This is what is known in engineering terms as scope creep 😅👌 love the car and that interior. Well worth saving. Wheels back to stock ftw.
Yeah mugged myself right off 😂
Like Murray Walker saying "Nigel Mansell is about to win the race" (back when F1 was worth watching!)
Hi dean think it’s the piston rings I did an Audi 100 in 1980 it was a 1975/76 car and it had marking like that on only one cylinder it turned out to be the rings only good thing about the car I did was I did not have half the crap to take off and I had a lot more room in the engine bay keep up the great work you have my luck as I always say if it was not for bad luck I would not have any.
Having got into the engine that far i think i would check number two piston! Definitely a bit of silver on the wheels. Looking forward to the next video
The cylinderhead may be warped. It would still be nice to do a leaktest on the cylinderhead. Just put back the spark plugs and fill the chambers with petrol. Check after one hour if the petrol level dropped.
Mk2 rear headlights have a notorius factory issue with the ground wire. Where the ground wire meets the jack, it would melt the jack. Make sure to pull bouth rear headlights out (2min job) and check the jack. If there is any indication of overheating on the pin for the ground then just drill into the plastic of the back of the headlight to find the "metal rods" that carry the ground, put a screw with washers and create a bypass from that bolt directly to the ground wire (bypassing the jack completely). It takes 15 minutes, I did it myself and it worked for years, still probably does but I sold the car 6months ago. But defientely check if this process has started in your car and let me know if you need more specific instructions on the solution.
That No2 bore looks very glazed to me, hone marks visible on all except No2. Been useful if you had carried out a cylinder leakage test before removing head. I’m guessing ring problem.
Yeah didn’t have time for a leak down test, either way the head would coming off. So I just sped up the process.
Oil on top go home and leave it over night
I agree Dean, wheels will look much better stock. Nice spec car. Looks great.
I'm not really a car person but I love your vids, I'm the type of person who buys a Rolex online and when it comes it's either a Timex or Durex, I think you're carrying the same luck as me. Love the frustration in your voice.
Carrying out a cylinder leakage test would have been my next diagnostic process. A clear way to identify whether head or piston rings are at fault.
Be a ring land for sure, Mahle pistons of that year apparently had a manufacture problem and were particularly susceptible to pre detonation or knocking due to insufficient octane fuel being used
I was watching Elvis (wheeler) He had same sort issue with focus rs one cylinder down on pressure, He put that cylinder TDC power stroke and pumped compressed air in s/plug hole and listened where air was escaping in this case it was leaking to crancase and was piston ring/bore problem.., Engine out rebore! Maybe you can fill combustion chamber and cylinder with fuel to see if either drain away? Cool car thou.
Aren't the rings known for going bad? I'm saying rings. You can get upgraded ones i believe and I'd do all 4.
Defo factory on the wheels whoops sorry rotors 😂 Sadly I’m going for rings ! Keep them coming Dean , you’ll sort it……
I believe bent rods are common on these engines, causes the scuffing you are seeing, plus a loss of compression, definitely worth a closer look!
Looking at that close-up of the wheel you had. It kinda looks like there's been some JB-weld patching done on one of the spokes... which would explain why they couldn't keep the milled finish.
Looking at the bores, I see a couple of vertical score marks which makes me think you've cracked a ring or ringland.
Agree resetting the wheels back to OEM diamond cut finish
I suppose you could leak down test but you have the head if memory serves drop the sump remove pistons and do a light hone with new rings, you’re going to have head checked I presume,don’t just love cars!, good work 👍
Definetly put the wheels back to stock. They look best that way..
Also you already should change compression ring. You already in there. Don't want to put it all together and find out you need to re do all the work for the compression ring.
Bore looks very shiny, pour some thin oil in the bore to see if it leaks through. Check the cam lobes and valves, is it possible that something has moved and inlet and exhaust are open at the same time?
Dean , +1 for ringland , just had one the same (golf gti) . Like you , swapped coil packs , compression tested and scoped the bore . Replaced engine with a “good one” from ENGINES OD which turned out to be worse than the one I was replacing . They wouldn’t refund . If you or anyone needs an engine , please don’t use ENGINES OD
A possibility ? I did one of these recently with the exact same problem , when thrashed to the point of valve bounce the rockers can jump out. this can easily be missed as its quite easy to think the rocker fell as the cam was lifted
Cylinder 2 piston looks like it could be rocking at the top of it's stroke. As it leans towards you, water is getting past the head gasket and into the cylinder (brown mark = rust?)
and the mark on the cylinder wall nearest to you looks like a score mark made by the piston scraping it?
Have you checked the rod isnt bent?
These have bad oil consumption problems. I would hedge towards a piston to be honest, with it having such different marks on the bore.
Ive just done a q3 with this engine, changed 2 bent rods. What a complete pain in the backside to do. I gave up trying to pull head off in place for the same reasons you found. Took whole lump out instead & glad i did, as it was a full strip down to put rods in. They have the crazy split sump that inhibits so much what you can do. Good luck with it, but like i say. I would look at piston. If you take the lower sump off, you can actually access no 2 & no 3 rod bolts with upper sump in place. Its tight to do, but possible.
That is really useful and relevant info
Put the plugs back in and pour some petrol/wd40 in the top chamber area wee if it loses any fluid. Also on another note is cylinder 2 a possible weak spot as cars for Paul done a tt and I am sure it was no2 that had failed but his had scoring. Guess you could set the engine to mid way and pour fluid in the cylinders and see how quick it leaks back to the sump as you will be changing the oil anyway.
I've seen broken hydraulic lifters on this era engine. Have you checked them to make sure they're not broken? Also, should have got a cylinder leak tester on it before taking the head off, could have saved you a whole load of time and might have given you some direction on where the compression was going. Best of luck with it mate.
Valves moved on Crank over after injector swap with cylinder 1👍
pour some anti-freeze or diesel in intake ports and then exhaust ports and see if it leaks past valves. Wear marks on bore on top front of cylinder dont look right.
Full cylinders with diesel, if cylinder 2 drops down rings or ring lands.
I had an st3 that I couldn’t see an issue with, bored still looked mint. Filled the bores with kerosene and the one with an issue dropped down. Pulled piston out and half the ring lands were gone
As always Dean, you're already there! Slap a set of rings in it mate. No room for error. Doing head gasket and chain kit. Don't want to do that turbo too many times in you're life!! 💯
It seems some kind os piston slap, check the pistons wrists, it might have oil starvation issues, on engines like these it's good to do a good flush clear all the oil galleries etc.
I’ve had problems with injectors sticking open and bore washing. Doesn’t look like you can see much cross hatching looks a bit shiny on the video. Also silly as it sounds Check the cam shaft I’ve also had a lobe turn keeping the valve open . Keep up the good work 👍🏻
Dean, I think it's time to invest in a 2nd 2-post lift, may take a bit of juggling to get it in the workshop. Could always put Trev (TVR) in a container to give you room.
Great content as usual, wheel defo need to go back to stock, diamond cut will just make it pop even more, plus people who would be attracted to buying such a car would prefer the stock look I think.
blown away with your moaning... you just got a great deal on the car that's worth 15k when fixed. Stay positive brother Dean and enjoy the project, you'll be rewarded for your effort... that's for sure. Remember this.
That is real set back working on a car that show no direct problem......What don t understand is why some parts are so difficult to remove, like that heat child and the turbo. Is there a reason for, because mechanics in the old days hate to work on French or Italian cars because they where so complicated to work with. Now we have a German car and there is no different with the French and the Italian because they are also s+ht to work on... Still a very nice car and one thing is for sure you will fix this car at they end !!!!
Isn't it quite typical for those motors to have the oil separator rings fail because of carbon buildup then brake the rings or the ring-gap in the piston? Those scratches on the top of the cylinder wall might hint to that, too. Maybe the piston is tilting on tdc. Maybe take a look at the lower part of the cylinder wall on the opposite side.
With all that compression passing the piston rings, when running.. i'd think it would have blown the dipstick out and tried to blow the sump oil everywhere .. looks more like a blown cylinder head gasket... Keep up the good work Budd.. Stay Safe Oot There ..
Looking at cylinder 2 compared to the rest it appears as if the ring line is about double the distance from the top of the block. Could just be because the comp ring is toast and its stuck in the ring land or the rod is bent slightly and the piston isnt reaching all the way up. If the comp ring was completely toast it wouldnt have even made the 1 bar of pressure surely?
I’ve had this on r56 cooper S minis.
Remove the piston and check for broken ring land.
We rebuild minis and it’s very common.
My next move would be to remove the piston for inspection.
Cheers. Keep up the great videos. I really enjoy them
Stephen
Nice one Dean, hope you get it resolved buddy! Really enjoy your honesty when you balls it up 👍🏼
That must be rings, from what I can see the H.gasket has a good seal all around, and you have some scoring in the bore, best check is to put and equal amount of fluid in each cylinder [diesel petrol mix] leave it for 3 to 4 hours and see which one drops first. Anyway best to have the piston out just check ✔️
The #2 bore looks to have less honing crosshatching and a lot more shiny than the other 3. Did you take the oil filler cap off with the engine running to see if the valve stems seals were good and not pressurising under the rocker cover?
Put fuel in head see if valves are leaking, same for piston, number 2 bore looks polished unless it’s the light, might indicate leaking injector? My guess is gonna need at least a set of rings, maybe piston too, worst case, rebore/rebuild
Great vlog and great car as always Dean, it still amazes me how you remember to put it all back together like new…hats off to you Sir….if you service it will you be renewing the transmission oil/fluid as I think this would be interesting to watch and learn……kind regards to you Mark from Billericay 👍😀🇬🇧🇬🇧
What engine is it? CDNA, CDNB, CDNC? For these, or up to 2012 model year, there are modified pistons available. These suffered from oil consumption which led to rings seizing and possibility to break off parts of the piston. The combustion marks on the top of the cylinder are a tell tale sign of blow by.
diamond cut definitely 👌 and piston rings sounds right with the marking if not no clues
Is it not just quicker dropping the engine/gearbox completely at this point? Turbo out in situ is a ballache when you know a bottom end rebuild is needed? Just drop the whole thing and save your poor back?
Definitely agree, back to OEM with diamond cut!
Great video dean, i would remove the sump and take number 2 piston out and check the rings and the condition of the piston for piece of mind
the ring land will be broken on the piston, common on these. you can just put one piston in but i'd advise checking them all
I like how fast you can troubleshoot these issues now.
I can't say enough how much I enjoy ya videos , you are very knowledgeable and good at what you do so thank you for the entertainment. Wheels need to go back to factory spec definitely.
Pour petrol into the cylinder and see if it leaks down into the sump? Does the oil smell of petrol already? You could have done a similar petrol leak test on the head but fair enough sending it away for a full refurb. If piston rings replace all 4 cylinder sets since presumably all from the same batch so could fail in the future? How easy to get the sump off so you can get the pistons/con rods out? Looks a nice well looked after car - becoming collectable so buyers will want originality hence diamond cut alloys. You should still make good money on it.
Serious graft there.
I'd have a look at ring gap/bore more closely due to that smear creeping down the bore and not being 'wiped'.
A total ball ache but you'll get to the root of it! 🚲
Bore’s look really polished on the video. Is there any original honing marks left?
I would add some petrol into each bore and see what happens to piston 2 compared to the others. Also, check the lobes on the cam shaft in case no 2 has spun. If I were to have a bet, I would say rings. Nice car though!
idea: Put the cylinder to top dead centre, then back it down 3 mm. Pour in some engine oil into the cylinder (top it off to the top) and wait a couple of days. If it leaks down through the rings, you'll see the level drop?
If it's engine code CAEB, CDNC OR CNDC, then it's most likely faulty piston rings.
If not one of those engine codes, and you suspect head gasket, then there should be tell tale signs in the oil and coolant. Smell and inspect coolant reservoir for traces of oil impregnation. Inspect oil for color change and possible sweet smell from coolant.
Is the little screen on the cam bridge still there? If it flew thru maybe got stuck in cylinder 2 and caused all your issues. That happened on my 09 Audi A3 which has the same exact engine. Mine skipped timing and 3 valves were bent. Also all exhaust valve seals were gone at 143K miles.
Or oil vapours from crankcase are escaping from crankcase past the rings. If the PCV has fatigued (which is highly likely) then that may cause higher then normal crankcase pressures which combined with possible faulty rings can produce those residual tracing on the cylinder wall. Remember the Audi 2.0T from 2007 to 2015 was notorious for this. It's the Audi engine that carbons up the fastest out of all their engines next to the S8 V10.
Love these videos, just down to earth with no rubbish , thanks matey keep em up
Love that interior really has a sports look to it. Regards the wheels def back to factory
Great video Dean! Can't help on the Cyl #2 problems, did I miss the head gasket inspection in the video??? Definitely back to stock for the wheels - they look dreadful in all black,
Yeah there was no evidence of a leak on it.
Spark plugs in and diesel on cylinder head that show if is leaking , I think is still needed new piston rings the love to by cowered with tar
I think issue with top rings.
Wheels go back to stock. They would really stand out and make the car look more modern and with all the other special specs on it.👍👍👍
Looks like a nice car Dean and don't say you are going to have a pretty easy fix are you 😂, diamond cut alloy wheels definitely, don't like complete black wheels on anything, myself, love it when you and other mechanics say simply remove this or that, I honestly struggle with anything on car's 😂😂
Put the wheels back to stock mate. And i think oil is getting past the rings. Sump off , piston out by the looks of it. The thing is?? Do you do all four and would you then change the big end shell as well?? Have fun!!!
I think it’s Carbon build up on rings, they might be broken also. Did you check crankcase pressure when running as there should have been excessive back pressure if it’s the rings? Put the wheels back to stock, the all black doesn’t suit but nice car.
As said, leave light oil in overnight, though I guess you already know the outcome.. (with diddly no compression and no obvious signs of head gasket ).
Quick check of bore dimensions, (though looks OK on film).
Remove number 2 piston, check rings and lands..and liner.
Rebuild in half the time.. Jobs a good un.
Oh, OEM wheels.
Stock diamond cut wheels defo. I think it the piston rings Den on cylinder 2 as it doesn’t look like the head gasket has gone. Look forward to finding out what it is. See you in your next video
I'd bet on top ring stuck due to collapsed or carboned ring groove in the piston. I'd count the bore not looking totally murdered being a lottery win.
Easy valve test when head is off, chuck the spark plugs in and turn it upside down in the parts washer. Fill the combustion chambers to the brim and then leave it 5 mins.
I'm going broken top ring, as if you look at the carbon around the top of bore 2 it hasn't got the clear straight line 6mm from the top indicating the top ring is not touching the bore at this position. the even line at 10mm down is as far as the 2nd ring travels indicating this ring is OK.
Looking at the bore could get away with sump off, piston out, hone and reassembly. but having now shown it on TH-cam everyone will know what's been done 😮👍
I would have tried the old diesel past the rings method, crank until all pistons are half way and put an inch of diesel in a good cylinder and the dodgy cylinder and watch for the speed of loss past the rings.
I would back to Oem/factory alloy wheels. Helps with resale value too👌🏻.
Hi Dean best TH-cam channel on cars keep it up. I am too an OEM person so go stock 👍👍👍👍👍and well done for all of your videos.!!!!!
I'm pretty sure it's the ring land. EA888's are know for having issues with that in generation 1 and 2. I assume this car had a huge oil consumption for a long time (I had 1+ liter/1000km with my A4), due to clogged holes in the rings and that might eventually led to a broken or displaced ring.
Great video Dean - no.2 looks like broken ring / s a quick fix would of been great but it makes a good video for us- wheels back to stock pls
Oil present on bore as piston descends in 2 places indicates a ring problem of some sort with no bore damage
That same thing happened to me 2 months ago, longitudinal 2.0 tfsi, sudden loss of compression, same errors, no hissing sound or anything, but turned out piston heat belt (between 1 and 2 rings) gave up, so rings no longer stayed in place, losing all of the compression.
A leak down test might have given some more clues before digging in, also recommend a steerable borescope so you can look back up at the valves if you’re buying a new one.
It might of, but wouldn’t of stopped me stripping it down. Would of just delayed me doing it which I didn’t have time for 😂
It's have not of!
@@simflan3013 who cares, I’m not an English teacher.
@@toolbox5226 I know, so what I’m not great at English. I’m good at maths and engines. That’s my forte 😂
@@toolbox5226 yeah I know bud 👌🏼🤣
Oh Dean!!! You don't half pick 'em !!! Seems strange one ring would go so completely while the others look OK. Have you gone back to Audi to get a full history as there might be a historical problem on the car? Regarding the wheels they look abysmal. Take them back to factory spec or sell them to part finance something really tasty.
As always good luck and thanks for the video. Cheers, Bob
Any more updates on the TVR project?
Cheers Pat🇦🇺
Bore looks polished with not much cross hatching compared to others. I'd go rings issue.
Spend the extra time to take the piston out and inspect it I’ve had one of these that has been cracked before between the rings
If you got it for half resale price could be a good car to push out with the honest diagnosis for someone wanting a 'engine upgrade' project. As for wheels definitely diamond cut looks better
Really nice car.
Diamond cut wheels. New piston rings on all cylinders, clean the head, New timing chain and gaskets. And it will be worth a lot of pounds.
I’m wondering if you have a stuck valve / binding valve stem might be the cause.