Put the wheels back to stock, I'd definitely agree. That cylinder doesn't look right compared to the others, so I'd have to go rings, especially if the head tests OK. Either way, it's a great buy, and im sure you'll have it sorted in the next video or two...
I saw it on the video. Cylinder 2 had siezed piston on TDC. There were scuff marks on the opposite side of where the burn marks were. Additionaly it had vertical scuffmarks to the left. Replace the piston rings. The piston may leak on the scuff marks. Check the cylinder wall for deformation.
My guess is a broken ring land. Pretty common ea888 issue. Looks like that piston may have been rocking a bit in the bore and glazed it slightly as well.
Put the camshafts back in the cilinder head, and turn them to see if the valve are closing properly. Pay attention on camshafts, if lobes are press fitted,the lobes might be in the wrong position(usually happens after a timing issue ;valves,pistons and camshafts interfere) Camshaft lobes must be 90 degrees delayed,clockwise, in firing order 1-3-4-2,cilinder 1 is the one next to timing chain. Example:cilinder 1 first lobe of intake camshaft must be 90 degrees delayed compared to cilinder 3 first lobes of intake camshaft . Another thing that you can do is to turn the engine until all pistons are in the centre, and put same amount of petrol in each of them,and watch how fast goes in cilinder 2 compared to the other ones.
Hi dean think it’s the piston rings I did an Audi 100 in 1980 it was a 1975/76 car and it had marking like that on only one cylinder it turned out to be the rings only good thing about the car I did was I did not have half the crap to take off and I had a lot more room in the engine bay keep up the great work you have my luck as I always say if it was not for bad luck I would not have any.
I had a very similar issue with the CESA AE888 last year. Turned out the oil control ring had blocked up causing the piston the lower end of the piston to blow out, couldnt see any damage from the top. Nice easy job to do once the engines out. I replaced all 4 pistons for ones our of gen 3 AE888 as they have wider openings on the oil control rings to prevent it in the future
I had the same problem on my TTs project (see my TTs playlist). It turned out to be the rings. One of the compression rings had four breaks in them which were enough to cause zero compression. I saw in your video that you had a slight score mark in cylinder two, the same as what I had. When I removed the piston, the ring had broken into pieces but stayed intact.
I suppose you could leak down test but you have the head if memory serves drop the sump remove pistons and do a light hone with new rings, you’re going to have head checked I presume,don’t just love cars!, good work 👍
I was watching Elvis (wheeler) He had same sort issue with focus rs one cylinder down on pressure, He put that cylinder TDC power stroke and pumped compressed air in s/plug hole and listened where air was escaping in this case it was leaking to crancase and was piston ring/bore problem.., Engine out rebore! Maybe you can fill combustion chamber and cylinder with fuel to see if either drain away? Cool car thou.
For many car nuts you are living the dream life, hardship yes but man you are busy with fine cars! I respect your ongoing endeavor and perseverance to keep on going with so many hurdles! My guess, given the black rims, somebody drove this car fast for too long - probably oil starvation at the piston breaking the compression ring...
The cylinderhead may be warped. It would still be nice to do a leaktest on the cylinderhead. Just put back the spark plugs and fill the chambers with petrol. Check after one hour if the petrol level dropped.
@16:45 there appears to be aluminium deposits on the bore which is indicative of a piston seizure. I've raced two stroke karts for several decades and we get these all the time. The ring will be stuck into the piston land and you'll have no compression. You'll need to strip the bottom end of the motor, take the crank out and confirm with that piston. I'd then bore all the cylinders and replace all the pistons and rings.
Keep going. This was never going to be as easy as a coil pack or spark plug. The binnacle showed service due, and yet it was obvious that hands had been on the plastics recently. This will be a good car for someone after your work!
That is real set back working on a car that show no direct problem......What don t understand is why some parts are so difficult to remove, like that heat child and the turbo. Is there a reason for, because mechanics in the old days hate to work on French or Italian cars because they where so complicated to work with. Now we have a German car and there is no different with the French and the Italian because they are also s+ht to work on... Still a very nice car and one thing is for sure you will fix this car at they end !!!!
Mk2 rear headlights have a notorius factory issue with the ground wire. Where the ground wire meets the jack, it would melt the jack. Make sure to pull bouth rear headlights out (2min job) and check the jack. If there is any indication of overheating on the pin for the ground then just drill into the plastic of the back of the headlight to find the "metal rods" that carry the ground, put a screw with washers and create a bypass from that bolt directly to the ground wire (bypassing the jack completely). It takes 15 minutes, I did it myself and it worked for years, still probably does but I sold the car 6months ago. But defientely check if this process has started in your car and let me know if you need more specific instructions on the solution.
' I hope this is a one video car' ... This is what is known in engineering terms as scope creep 😅👌 love the car and that interior. Well worth saving. Wheels back to stock ftw.
I've seen the exact thing on an Audi 1.6 57 reg had a slight misfire, using a borescope with side camera saw those exact "burn" marks near the top only on the misfire cylinder when it was stripped down, the compression rings were broken in 2 places
I'm not really a car person but I love your vids, I'm the type of person who buys a Rolex online and when it comes it's either a Timex or Durex, I think you're carrying the same luck as me. Love the frustration in your voice.
Looking at that close-up of the wheel you had. It kinda looks like there's been some JB-weld patching done on one of the spokes... which would explain why they couldn't keep the milled finish. Looking at the bores, I see a couple of vertical score marks which makes me think you've cracked a ring or ringland.
Dean , +1 for ringland , just had one the same (golf gti) . Like you , swapped coil packs , compression tested and scoped the bore . Replaced engine with a “good one” from ENGINES OD which turned out to be worse than the one I was replacing . They wouldn’t refund . If you or anyone needs an engine , please don’t use ENGINES OD
That No2 bore looks very glazed to me, hone marks visible on all except No2. Been useful if you had carried out a cylinder leakage test before removing head. I’m guessing ring problem.
Be a ring land for sure, Mahle pistons of that year apparently had a manufacture problem and were particularly susceptible to pre detonation or knocking due to insufficient octane fuel being used
Is it not just quicker dropping the engine/gearbox completely at this point? Turbo out in situ is a ballache when you know a bottom end rebuild is needed? Just drop the whole thing and save your poor back? Definitely agree, back to OEM with diamond cut!
If it's engine code CAEB, CDNC OR CNDC, then it's most likely faulty piston rings. If not one of those engine codes, and you suspect head gasket, then there should be tell tale signs in the oil and coolant. Smell and inspect coolant reservoir for traces of oil impregnation. Inspect oil for color change and possible sweet smell from coolant.
Really nice car. Diamond cut wheels. New piston rings on all cylinders, clean the head, New timing chain and gaskets. And it will be worth a lot of pounds.
Full cylinders with diesel, if cylinder 2 drops down rings or ring lands. I had an st3 that I couldn’t see an issue with, bored still looked mint. Filled the bores with kerosene and the one with an issue dropped down. Pulled piston out and half the ring lands were gone
I'd bet on top ring stuck due to collapsed or carboned ring groove in the piston. I'd count the bore not looking totally murdered being a lottery win. Easy valve test when head is off, chuck the spark plugs in and turn it upside down in the parts washer. Fill the combustion chambers to the brim and then leave it 5 mins.
I’ve had this on r56 cooper S minis. Remove the piston and check for broken ring land. We rebuild minis and it’s very common. My next move would be to remove the piston for inspection. Cheers. Keep up the great videos. I really enjoy them Stephen
pour some anti-freeze or diesel in intake ports and then exhaust ports and see if it leaks past valves. Wear marks on bore on top front of cylinder dont look right.
Having got into the engine that far i think i would check number two piston! Definitely a bit of silver on the wheels. Looking forward to the next video
Pour petrol into the cylinder and see if it leaks down into the sump? Does the oil smell of petrol already? You could have done a similar petrol leak test on the head but fair enough sending it away for a full refurb. If piston rings replace all 4 cylinder sets since presumably all from the same batch so could fail in the future? How easy to get the sump off so you can get the pistons/con rods out? Looks a nice well looked after car - becoming collectable so buyers will want originality hence diamond cut alloys. You should still make good money on it.
Never knew this model of TT existed and we have had two mk 2 TT's! Looks a nice spec but had to be a problem at that price - no such thing as a free lunch! Another vote to put the wheels back to stock - I'm just not a fan of black wheels.
That must be rings, from what I can see the H.gasket has a good seal all around, and you have some scoring in the bore, best check is to put and equal amount of fluid in each cylinder [diesel petrol mix] leave it for 3 to 4 hours and see which one drops first. Anyway best to have the piston out just check ✔️
Have you checked the rod isnt bent? These have bad oil consumption problems. I would hedge towards a piston to be honest, with it having such different marks on the bore. Ive just done a q3 with this engine, changed 2 bent rods. What a complete pain in the backside to do. I gave up trying to pull head off in place for the same reasons you found. Took whole lump out instead & glad i did, as it was a full strip down to put rods in. They have the crazy split sump that inhibits so much what you can do. Good luck with it, but like i say. I would look at piston. If you take the lower sump off, you can actually access no 2 & no 3 rod bolts with upper sump in place. Its tight to do, but possible.
Definetly put the wheels back to stock. They look best that way.. Also you already should change compression ring. You already in there. Don't want to put it all together and find out you need to re do all the work for the compression ring.
I'm going broken top ring, as if you look at the carbon around the top of bore 2 it hasn't got the clear straight line 6mm from the top indicating the top ring is not touching the bore at this position. the even line at 10mm down is as far as the 2nd ring travels indicating this ring is OK. Looking at the bore could get away with sump off, piston out, hone and reassembly. but having now shown it on TH-cam everyone will know what's been done 😮👍
As said, leave light oil in overnight, though I guess you already know the outcome.. (with diddly no compression and no obvious signs of head gasket ). Quick check of bore dimensions, (though looks OK on film). Remove number 2 piston, check rings and lands..and liner. Rebuild in half the time.. Jobs a good un. Oh, OEM wheels.
Serious graft there. I'd have a look at ring gap/bore more closely due to that smear creeping down the bore and not being 'wiped'. A total ball ache but you'll get to the root of it! 🚲
Bore looks very shiny, pour some thin oil in the bore to see if it leaks through. Check the cam lobes and valves, is it possible that something has moved and inlet and exhaust are open at the same time?
I’ve had problems with injectors sticking open and bore washing. Doesn’t look like you can see much cross hatching looks a bit shiny on the video. Also silly as it sounds Check the cam shaft I’ve also had a lobe turn keeping the valve open . Keep up the good work 👍🏻
I would have tried the old diesel past the rings method, crank until all pistons are half way and put an inch of diesel in a good cylinder and the dodgy cylinder and watch for the speed of loss past the rings.
Cylinder 2 piston looks like it could be rocking at the top of it's stroke. As it leans towards you, water is getting past the head gasket and into the cylinder (brown mark = rust?) and the mark on the cylinder wall nearest to you looks like a score mark made by the piston scraping it?
A possibility ? I did one of these recently with the exact same problem , when thrashed to the point of valve bounce the rockers can jump out. this can easily be missed as its quite easy to think the rocker fell as the cam was lifted
It seems some kind os piston slap, check the pistons wrists, it might have oil starvation issues, on engines like these it's good to do a good flush clear all the oil galleries etc.
Back to original wheels! Had a A3 same engine where the spark plug basically disintegrated on the car it was when the tfsi first came out Audi put a new engine in it. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Or oil vapours from crankcase are escaping from crankcase past the rings. If the PCV has fatigued (which is highly likely) then that may cause higher then normal crankcase pressures which combined with possible faulty rings can produce those residual tracing on the cylinder wall. Remember the Audi 2.0T from 2007 to 2015 was notorious for this. It's the Audi engine that carbons up the fastest out of all their engines next to the S8 V10.
Put fuel in head see if valves are leaking, same for piston, number 2 bore looks polished unless it’s the light, might indicate leaking injector? My guess is gonna need at least a set of rings, maybe piston too, worst case, rebore/rebuild
I would add some petrol into each bore and see what happens to piston 2 compared to the others. Also, check the lobes on the cam shaft in case no 2 has spun. If I were to have a bet, I would say rings. Nice car though!
Put the plugs back in and pour some petrol/wd40 in the top chamber area wee if it loses any fluid. Also on another note is cylinder 2 a possible weak spot as cars for Paul done a tt and I am sure it was no2 that had failed but his had scoring. Guess you could set the engine to mid way and pour fluid in the cylinders and see how quick it leaks back to the sump as you will be changing the oil anyway.
Pour some petrol on top of the piston and put the plug back in the head and fill up cylinder 2 with petrol. If it flows away that's were the compression is going.
Put the wheels back to stock mate. And i think oil is getting past the rings. Sump off , piston out by the looks of it. The thing is?? Do you do all four and would you then change the big end shell as well?? Have fun!!!
Isn't it quite typical for those motors to have the oil separator rings fail because of carbon buildup then brake the rings or the ring-gap in the piston? Those scratches on the top of the cylinder wall might hint to that, too. Maybe the piston is tilting on tdc. Maybe take a look at the lower part of the cylinder wall on the opposite side.
blown away with your moaning... you just got a great deal on the car that's worth 15k when fixed. Stay positive brother Dean and enjoy the project, you'll be rewarded for your effort... that's for sure. Remember this.
I think issue with top rings. Wheels go back to stock. They would really stand out and make the car look more modern and with all the other special specs on it.👍👍👍
I've seen broken hydraulic lifters on this era engine. Have you checked them to make sure they're not broken? Also, should have got a cylinder leak tester on it before taking the head off, could have saved you a whole load of time and might have given you some direction on where the compression was going. Best of luck with it mate.
For the wheels,go back to factory,on the motor would it not been easier to have dropped the whole motor and crosmember out for easier access,about same amount of labor.cylinder with is that not rust at very top of bore,that says water,so head gasket OR HEAD WARPED.GOOD VIDEO.😎😎😎👍👍👍
With all that compression passing the piston rings, when running.. i'd think it would have blown the dipstick out and tried to blow the sump oil everywhere .. looks more like a blown cylinder head gasket... Keep up the good work Budd.. Stay Safe Oot There ..
As always Dean, you're already there! Slap a set of rings in it mate. No room for error. Doing head gasket and chain kit. Don't want to do that turbo too many times in you're life!! 💯
Looking at cylinder 2 compared to the rest it appears as if the ring line is about double the distance from the top of the block. Could just be because the comp ring is toast and its stuck in the ring land or the rod is bent slightly and the piston isnt reaching all the way up. If the comp ring was completely toast it wouldnt have even made the 1 bar of pressure surely?
coil pack and a new set of spark plugs, oil change, filters, and brake fluid --- coud be good. But then again coud be a poor compresssion ie piston rings or valve issue -- then work and money needed . Watcing to the end of vlog it does look like piston rings on 2
Dean, I think it's time to invest in a 2nd 2-post lift, may take a bit of juggling to get it in the workshop. Could always put Trev (TVR) in a container to give you room. Great content as usual, wheel defo need to go back to stock, diamond cut will just make it pop even more, plus people who would be attracted to buying such a car would prefer the stock look I think.
Turn the engine so piston 2 is at half way in the cylinder and drop a bit petrol or oil in bore and it it seeps through its the rings, leave wheels as they are goes with the spoiler
Diamond cut wheels look much better than just black.
100% agree
Go back to stock on the wheels..... They look dreadful all black
Agree with you there. Rotors are some of the best looking Audi alloys ever and to black out the signature details ruins them.
in most cases I think black wheels are crap
@@SaltimusMaximus agreed bud I hate black wheels
Put the wheels back to stock, I'd definitely agree. That cylinder doesn't look right compared to the others, so I'd have to go rings, especially if the head tests OK. Either way, it's a great buy, and im sure you'll have it sorted in the next video or two...
I saw it on the video. Cylinder 2 had siezed piston on TDC. There were scuff marks on the opposite side of where the burn marks were. Additionaly it had vertical scuffmarks to the left. Replace the piston rings. The piston may leak on the scuff marks. Check the cylinder wall for deformation.
My guess is a broken ring land. Pretty common ea888 issue. Looks like that piston may have been rocking a bit in the bore and glazed it slightly as well.
could be right
i think ur right sump out no 2 piston out,new rings ......sorted
Nope! Head gasket has been leaking oil
Put the camshafts back in the cilinder head, and turn them to see if the valve are closing properly.
Pay attention on camshafts, if lobes are press fitted,the lobes might be in the wrong position(usually happens after a timing issue ;valves,pistons and camshafts interfere)
Camshaft lobes must be 90 degrees delayed,clockwise, in firing order 1-3-4-2,cilinder 1 is the one next to timing chain.
Example:cilinder 1 first lobe of intake camshaft must be 90 degrees delayed compared to cilinder 3 first lobes of intake camshaft .
Another thing that you can do is to turn the engine until all pistons are in the centre, and put same amount of petrol in each of them,and watch how fast goes in cilinder 2 compared to the other ones.
Hi dean think it’s the piston rings I did an Audi 100 in 1980 it was a 1975/76 car and it had marking like that on only one cylinder it turned out to be the rings only good thing about the car I did was I did not have half the crap to take off and I had a lot more room in the engine bay keep up the great work you have my luck as I always say if it was not for bad luck I would not have any.
I had a very similar issue with the CESA AE888 last year. Turned out the oil control ring had blocked up causing the piston the lower end of the piston to blow out, couldnt see any damage from the top. Nice easy job to do once the engines out. I replaced all 4 pistons for ones our of gen 3 AE888 as they have wider openings on the oil control rings to prevent it in the future
Leave some oil in the cylinder and see if it leaks out.
I would use kerosene
What would the viscosity of kerosene be
I watch most if not all your work and appreciate just how much work that goes into repairs and maintenance. Keep up the good work.
I had the same problem on my TTs project (see my TTs playlist). It turned out to be the rings. One of the compression rings had four breaks in them which were enough to cause zero compression. I saw in your video that you had a slight score mark in cylinder two, the same as what I had. When I removed the piston, the ring had broken into pieces but stayed intact.
It's definitely worth popping the piston out and have a look.
Plus a Quick hone. Great video 👍🏻
I love how casual you are about pulling the engine apart.
Definitely take out number 2 piston it's probably cracked between the rings
I suppose you could leak down test but you have the head if memory serves drop the sump remove pistons and do a light hone with new rings, you’re going to have head checked I presume,don’t just love cars!, good work 👍
I was watching Elvis (wheeler) He had same sort issue with focus rs one cylinder down on pressure, He put that cylinder TDC power stroke and pumped compressed air in s/plug hole and listened where air was escaping in this case it was leaking to crancase and was piston ring/bore problem.., Engine out rebore! Maybe you can fill combustion chamber and cylinder with fuel to see if either drain away? Cool car thou.
For many car nuts you are living the dream life, hardship yes but man you are busy with fine cars! I respect your ongoing endeavor and perseverance to keep on going with so many hurdles! My guess, given the black rims, somebody drove this car fast for too long - probably oil starvation at the piston breaking the compression ring...
The cylinderhead may be warped. It would still be nice to do a leaktest on the cylinderhead. Just put back the spark plugs and fill the chambers with petrol. Check after one hour if the petrol level dropped.
Carrying out a cylinder leakage test would have been my next diagnostic process. A clear way to identify whether head or piston rings are at fault.
@16:45 there appears to be aluminium deposits on the bore which is indicative of a piston seizure. I've raced two stroke karts for several decades and we get these all the time. The ring will be stuck into the piston land and you'll have no compression. You'll need to strip the bottom end of the motor, take the crank out and confirm with that piston. I'd then bore all the cylinders and replace all the pistons and rings.
Keep going. This was never going to be as easy as a coil pack or spark plug. The binnacle showed service due, and yet it was obvious that hands had been on the plastics recently. This will be a good car for someone after your work!
That is real set back working on a car that show no direct problem......What don t understand is why some parts are so difficult to remove, like that heat child and the turbo. Is there a reason for, because mechanics in the old days hate to work on French or Italian cars because they where so complicated to work with. Now we have a German car and there is no different with the French and the Italian because they are also s+ht to work on... Still a very nice car and one thing is for sure you will fix this car at they end !!!!
Mk2 rear headlights have a notorius factory issue with the ground wire. Where the ground wire meets the jack, it would melt the jack. Make sure to pull bouth rear headlights out (2min job) and check the jack. If there is any indication of overheating on the pin for the ground then just drill into the plastic of the back of the headlight to find the "metal rods" that carry the ground, put a screw with washers and create a bypass from that bolt directly to the ground wire (bypassing the jack completely). It takes 15 minutes, I did it myself and it worked for years, still probably does but I sold the car 6months ago. But defientely check if this process has started in your car and let me know if you need more specific instructions on the solution.
Agree resetting the wheels back to OEM diamond cut finish
I agree Dean, wheels will look much better stock. Nice spec car. Looks great.
A draw down test may have been the way to go to see where the leak is, i.e. inlet valves or exhaust valves , or passing the pistons in to the sump
' I hope this is a one video car' ... This is what is known in engineering terms as scope creep 😅👌 love the car and that interior. Well worth saving. Wheels back to stock ftw.
Yeah mugged myself right off 😂
Like Murray Walker saying "Nigel Mansell is about to win the race" (back when F1 was worth watching!)
I've seen the exact thing on an Audi 1.6 57 reg had a slight misfire, using a borescope with side camera saw those exact "burn" marks near the top only on the misfire cylinder when it was stripped down, the compression rings were broken in 2 places
I like how fast you can troubleshoot these issues now.
Aren't the rings known for going bad? I'm saying rings. You can get upgraded ones i believe and I'd do all 4.
I'm not really a car person but I love your vids, I'm the type of person who buys a Rolex online and when it comes it's either a Timex or Durex, I think you're carrying the same luck as me. Love the frustration in your voice.
Looking at that close-up of the wheel you had. It kinda looks like there's been some JB-weld patching done on one of the spokes... which would explain why they couldn't keep the milled finish.
Looking at the bores, I see a couple of vertical score marks which makes me think you've cracked a ring or ringland.
Dean , +1 for ringland , just had one the same (golf gti) . Like you , swapped coil packs , compression tested and scoped the bore . Replaced engine with a “good one” from ENGINES OD which turned out to be worse than the one I was replacing . They wouldn’t refund . If you or anyone needs an engine , please don’t use ENGINES OD
Start using a leak down gage instead of a compression tester. Leak down will point to the major source of your problem.
That No2 bore looks very glazed to me, hone marks visible on all except No2. Been useful if you had carried out a cylinder leakage test before removing head. I’m guessing ring problem.
Yeah didn’t have time for a leak down test, either way the head would coming off. So I just sped up the process.
Oil on top go home and leave it over night
I believe bent rods are common on these engines, causes the scuffing you are seeing, plus a loss of compression, definitely worth a closer look!
Be a ring land for sure, Mahle pistons of that year apparently had a manufacture problem and were particularly susceptible to pre detonation or knocking due to insufficient octane fuel being used
Is it not just quicker dropping the engine/gearbox completely at this point? Turbo out in situ is a ballache when you know a bottom end rebuild is needed? Just drop the whole thing and save your poor back?
Definitely agree, back to OEM with diamond cut!
If it's engine code CAEB, CDNC OR CNDC, then it's most likely faulty piston rings.
If not one of those engine codes, and you suspect head gasket, then there should be tell tale signs in the oil and coolant. Smell and inspect coolant reservoir for traces of oil impregnation. Inspect oil for color change and possible sweet smell from coolant.
Really nice car.
Diamond cut wheels. New piston rings on all cylinders, clean the head, New timing chain and gaskets. And it will be worth a lot of pounds.
Full cylinders with diesel, if cylinder 2 drops down rings or ring lands.
I had an st3 that I couldn’t see an issue with, bored still looked mint. Filled the bores with kerosene and the one with an issue dropped down. Pulled piston out and half the ring lands were gone
I'd bet on top ring stuck due to collapsed or carboned ring groove in the piston. I'd count the bore not looking totally murdered being a lottery win.
Easy valve test when head is off, chuck the spark plugs in and turn it upside down in the parts washer. Fill the combustion chambers to the brim and then leave it 5 mins.
I’ve had this on r56 cooper S minis.
Remove the piston and check for broken ring land.
We rebuild minis and it’s very common.
My next move would be to remove the piston for inspection.
Cheers. Keep up the great videos. I really enjoy them
Stephen
pour some anti-freeze or diesel in intake ports and then exhaust ports and see if it leaks past valves. Wear marks on bore on top front of cylinder dont look right.
Spark plugs in and diesel on cylinder head that show if is leaking , I think is still needed new piston rings the love to by cowered with tar
Also silver wheels and diamond cut
Having got into the engine that far i think i would check number two piston! Definitely a bit of silver on the wheels. Looking forward to the next video
Pour petrol into the cylinder and see if it leaks down into the sump? Does the oil smell of petrol already? You could have done a similar petrol leak test on the head but fair enough sending it away for a full refurb. If piston rings replace all 4 cylinder sets since presumably all from the same batch so could fail in the future? How easy to get the sump off so you can get the pistons/con rods out? Looks a nice well looked after car - becoming collectable so buyers will want originality hence diamond cut alloys. You should still make good money on it.
Never knew this model of TT existed and we have had two mk 2 TT's! Looks a nice spec but had to be a problem at that price - no such thing as a free lunch! Another vote to put the wheels back to stock - I'm just not a fan of black wheels.
That must be rings, from what I can see the H.gasket has a good seal all around, and you have some scoring in the bore, best check is to put and equal amount of fluid in each cylinder [diesel petrol mix] leave it for 3 to 4 hours and see which one drops first. Anyway best to have the piston out just check ✔️
Have you checked the rod isnt bent?
These have bad oil consumption problems. I would hedge towards a piston to be honest, with it having such different marks on the bore.
Ive just done a q3 with this engine, changed 2 bent rods. What a complete pain in the backside to do. I gave up trying to pull head off in place for the same reasons you found. Took whole lump out instead & glad i did, as it was a full strip down to put rods in. They have the crazy split sump that inhibits so much what you can do. Good luck with it, but like i say. I would look at piston. If you take the lower sump off, you can actually access no 2 & no 3 rod bolts with upper sump in place. Its tight to do, but possible.
That is really useful and relevant info
Definetly put the wheels back to stock. They look best that way..
Also you already should change compression ring. You already in there. Don't want to put it all together and find out you need to re do all the work for the compression ring.
Piston rings.if it were head gasket you would see other marks on the head. Good luck!!
I'm going broken top ring, as if you look at the carbon around the top of bore 2 it hasn't got the clear straight line 6mm from the top indicating the top ring is not touching the bore at this position. the even line at 10mm down is as far as the 2nd ring travels indicating this ring is OK.
Looking at the bore could get away with sump off, piston out, hone and reassembly. but having now shown it on TH-cam everyone will know what's been done 😮👍
As said, leave light oil in overnight, though I guess you already know the outcome.. (with diddly no compression and no obvious signs of head gasket ).
Quick check of bore dimensions, (though looks OK on film).
Remove number 2 piston, check rings and lands..and liner.
Rebuild in half the time.. Jobs a good un.
Oh, OEM wheels.
Serious graft there.
I'd have a look at ring gap/bore more closely due to that smear creeping down the bore and not being 'wiped'.
A total ball ache but you'll get to the root of it! 🚲
Bore looks very shiny, pour some thin oil in the bore to see if it leaks through. Check the cam lobes and valves, is it possible that something has moved and inlet and exhaust are open at the same time?
I’ve had problems with injectors sticking open and bore washing. Doesn’t look like you can see much cross hatching looks a bit shiny on the video. Also silly as it sounds Check the cam shaft I’ve also had a lobe turn keeping the valve open . Keep up the good work 👍🏻
I would have tried the old diesel past the rings method, crank until all pistons are half way and put an inch of diesel in a good cylinder and the dodgy cylinder and watch for the speed of loss past the rings.
Cylinder 2 piston looks like it could be rocking at the top of it's stroke. As it leans towards you, water is getting past the head gasket and into the cylinder (brown mark = rust?)
and the mark on the cylinder wall nearest to you looks like a score mark made by the piston scraping it?
Defo factory on the wheels whoops sorry rotors 😂 Sadly I’m going for rings ! Keep them coming Dean , you’ll sort it……
A possibility ? I did one of these recently with the exact same problem , when thrashed to the point of valve bounce the rockers can jump out. this can easily be missed as its quite easy to think the rocker fell as the cam was lifted
It seems some kind os piston slap, check the pistons wrists, it might have oil starvation issues, on engines like these it's good to do a good flush clear all the oil galleries etc.
Back to original wheels! Had a A3 same engine where the spark plug basically disintegrated on the car it was when the tfsi first came out Audi put a new engine in it. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
diamond cut definitely 👌 and piston rings sounds right with the marking if not no clues
Or oil vapours from crankcase are escaping from crankcase past the rings. If the PCV has fatigued (which is highly likely) then that may cause higher then normal crankcase pressures which combined with possible faulty rings can produce those residual tracing on the cylinder wall. Remember the Audi 2.0T from 2007 to 2015 was notorious for this. It's the Audi engine that carbons up the fastest out of all their engines next to the S8 V10.
Put fuel in head see if valves are leaking, same for piston, number 2 bore looks polished unless it’s the light, might indicate leaking injector? My guess is gonna need at least a set of rings, maybe piston too, worst case, rebore/rebuild
Bore looks polished with not much cross hatching compared to others. I'd go rings issue.
I would add some petrol into each bore and see what happens to piston 2 compared to the others. Also, check the lobes on the cam shaft in case no 2 has spun. If I were to have a bet, I would say rings. Nice car though!
Put the plugs back in and pour some petrol/wd40 in the top chamber area wee if it loses any fluid. Also on another note is cylinder 2 a possible weak spot as cars for Paul done a tt and I am sure it was no2 that had failed but his had scoring. Guess you could set the engine to mid way and pour fluid in the cylinders and see how quick it leaks back to the sump as you will be changing the oil anyway.
bring the piston up to surface and try the move piston left right or forward and backward if it is dancing piston rings good luck
Pour some petrol on top of the piston and put the plug back in the head and fill up cylinder 2 with petrol. If it flows away that's were the compression is going.
Bore’s look really polished on the video. Is there any original honing marks left?
Put the wheels back to stock mate. And i think oil is getting past the rings. Sump off , piston out by the looks of it. The thing is?? Do you do all four and would you then change the big end shell as well?? Have fun!!!
the ring land will be broken on the piston, common on these. you can just put one piston in but i'd advise checking them all
Isn't it quite typical for those motors to have the oil separator rings fail because of carbon buildup then brake the rings or the ring-gap in the piston? Those scratches on the top of the cylinder wall might hint to that, too. Maybe the piston is tilting on tdc. Maybe take a look at the lower part of the cylinder wall on the opposite side.
Diamond cut wheels, not keen on black. IMHO it’s a piston ring issue. Thanks for the great videos, keep up the great work! 😎👍
Diamond cut wheels for sure! I dont like fully gloss/matt black rotors imo!
Nice one Dean, hope you get it resolved buddy! Really enjoy your honesty when you balls it up 👍🏼
blown away with your moaning... you just got a great deal on the car that's worth 15k when fixed. Stay positive brother Dean and enjoy the project, you'll be rewarded for your effort... that's for sure. Remember this.
Oil present on bore as piston descends in 2 places indicates a ring problem of some sort with no bore damage
Broken top compression ring. I did one last month.
I think issue with top rings.
Wheels go back to stock. They would really stand out and make the car look more modern and with all the other special specs on it.👍👍👍
I've seen broken hydraulic lifters on this era engine. Have you checked them to make sure they're not broken? Also, should have got a cylinder leak tester on it before taking the head off, could have saved you a whole load of time and might have given you some direction on where the compression was going. Best of luck with it mate.
Valves moved on Crank over after injector swap with cylinder 1👍
For the wheels,go back to factory,on the motor would it not been easier to have dropped the whole motor and crosmember out for easier access,about same amount of labor.cylinder with is that not rust at very top of bore,that says water,so head gasket OR HEAD WARPED.GOOD VIDEO.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Put one finger on top side one on bottom of the piston and see if it move. If the piston rocking this mean is a rings job .
With all that compression passing the piston rings, when running.. i'd think it would have blown the dipstick out and tried to blow the sump oil everywhere .. looks more like a blown cylinder head gasket... Keep up the good work Budd.. Stay Safe Oot There ..
Love that interior really has a sports look to it. Regards the wheels def back to factory
I would back to Oem/factory alloy wheels. Helps with resale value too👌🏻.
As always Dean, you're already there! Slap a set of rings in it mate. No room for error. Doing head gasket and chain kit. Don't want to do that turbo too many times in you're life!! 💯
Spend the extra time to take the piston out and inspect it I’ve had one of these that has been cracked before between the rings
Hi, watch your video from when you pour oil in. Look at inlet cylinder 2. 🤔
Looking at cylinder 2 compared to the rest it appears as if the ring line is about double the distance from the top of the block. Could just be because the comp ring is toast and its stuck in the ring land or the rod is bent slightly and the piston isnt reaching all the way up. If the comp ring was completely toast it wouldnt have even made the 1 bar of pressure surely?
Put pistons 2/3 at bottom and put some petrol in there see how long it takes to go. You would see blow marks on the head surface if it’s a gasket
Great video dean, i would remove the sump and take number 2 piston out and check the rings and the condition of the piston for piece of mind
OEM wheels for sure, I'd say new rings seen this on them engines a few times now 👍🏻
coil pack and a new set of spark plugs, oil change, filters, and brake fluid --- coud be good. But then again coud be a poor compresssion ie piston rings or valve issue -- then work and money needed . Watcing to the end of vlog it does look like piston rings on 2
Pop number 2 piston out and check between the rings ive hade them crack between the top and second set of rings
Dean, I think it's time to invest in a 2nd 2-post lift, may take a bit of juggling to get it in the workshop. Could always put Trev (TVR) in a container to give you room.
Great content as usual, wheel defo need to go back to stock, diamond cut will just make it pop even more, plus people who would be attracted to buying such a car would prefer the stock look I think.
Lovely car , piston rings coked up , but why only number 2 cylinder ? 😮 looking forward to part 2 .
Thank you for sharing your mechanical knowledge with us !
Turn the engine so piston 2 is at half way in the cylinder and drop a bit petrol or oil in bore and it it seeps through its the rings, leave wheels as they are goes with the spoiler