Join me while I replace the bellow / gaiter on my trailer coupling. In this tutorial I change the bellow gaitor on my Ifor Williams 3.5 tonne trailer with a Knott Avonride coupling. I hope you find these repair instructions helpful!
On my trailer the vertical bolt actually stops the damper from going out to its full extent so to make life easier it is a good idea to put a suitably sized round bar into the bottom of the bolt hole and then up the damper tube as you remove the bolt this bar can now be used to take the damper pressure off the bolt which is maybe why you had to screw it out. If you do this you will then have to release the round bar by levering the damper further towards the trailer back and slipping the bar out before it recovers thus making it possible to take off the old bellows and putting on the new ones. I had to use round bar in the horizontal bolt hole and a suitably sized spacer to lever the damper back to the position in needed to be in to get the top bolt back into the damper tube (better with two peeps to do this bit) also helps to have the round bar inserted into the bottom of the verticle hole to help get the bolt in, remember to take the spacer out as I forgot and had to go backward and remove bothe bolts again to get it out!! dooh. Also on by trailer there was a washer with one side curved that went on the under side of the verticle bolt as it was being tightened onto the round tube and not a flat surface. Hope that helps and thanks for posting video, helped me a lot.
That's some fantastic information for me and others who need to do this job. Thank you so much for taking the time to write it all out in the comments section. That will really help a lot of people. All the best, Jimmy 👍
Cut a bolt to just under the diameter of the drawbar and insert to knock out the bolt and take the strain of the damper. Make sure it is in the hole in the drawbar and under the outside diameter of the bar. Insert the bolt knocking out the cut bolt when assembling, therebye taking the damper pressure as the cut bolt is moved out by the fixing bolt.
New nuts supplied are self locking, though not Nylex. They are ovalled so that they grip when tightened. Should not re-use self locking nuts of either type as they will not grip so tight second time used.
Hi great vid helps me out a lot, can you change pin hitch cupping to a ball hitch coupling on Ivor Williams plant trailer without changing complete A frame? Thanks
I have done one once years ago but on an indespension trailer. I'm sure when you remove the coupling head, there is a thin bar that holds the lock in place and you knock that out. I'm pretty sure the instructions are in the box when you buy the new lock. If you are after security though, it is best to buy one of the big shroud locks that cover the entire head. Nothing will stop them taking it if they want it but it does slow them down a lot and causes them to make tons of noise. If I get chance over summer I will see if I can make a video about changing a lock. Best of luck, Jimmy
Are the nuts they supply not locking nuts (philidas, squashed slightly)? Or you could use loctite. Nylocs don't hold after first use usually any better than plain nuts. But good vid, useful.
Yes, it's in the trailer playlist on the TH-cam channel. It was a tricky task and required a jack and some blocks of wood to complete it. All the best, Jimmy 👍
Not as I know too. The plunger stem just fits directly in to the coupling head on the models I have got. If you have got Instagram or twitter then send me a photo and I will try and work something out. Thanks, Jimmy
The older trailers do have a bush that keeps the drawtube snug in the hitch. Mine is a kf27 on my horse trailer and has the nylon bushes whereas newer hitches don't. I'm in the process of replacing them now.
@@Ollywin Yeap I got there in the end. I am in nz and it was built in uk. Managed to find a plastic bush which was a bit too thick so sanded it down to make it thinner then used lots of grease and banged it in.
The original was nylon. But here I could only get a plastic one. I have photos if you are on Facebook search facebook.com/allthingznice7 and message me on messenger. Bush www.trailerpartsnz.com/product_info.php/knott-45mm-draw-tube-bush-p-3344?osCsid=ff6r4ljgp30agepj3d32cqcvsv
I never use the drill to torque up nuts and bolts because they are too powerful and will easily strip the thread on mild steel nuts and bolts. I do them as tight as I can by hand then use a torque wrench 👍
Join me while I replace the bellow / gaiter on my trailer coupling. In this tutorial I change the bellow gaitor on my Ifor Williams 3.5 tonne trailer with a Knott Avonride coupling. I hope you find these repair instructions helpful!
Great video Jimmy
Thanks mate, I really appreciate your support 👍
Thanks Jimmy
My pleasure, glad it helped 😀
Good job done Jimmy
Cheers mate,
Thanks for watching 👍
Good video
On my trailer the vertical bolt actually stops the damper from going out to its full extent so to make life easier it is a good idea to put a suitably sized round bar into the bottom of the bolt hole and then up the damper tube as you remove the bolt this bar can now be used to take the damper pressure off the bolt which is maybe why you had to screw it out. If you do this you will then have to release the round bar by levering the damper further towards the trailer back and slipping the bar out before it recovers thus making it possible to take off the old bellows and putting on the new ones. I had to use round bar in the horizontal bolt hole and a suitably sized spacer to lever the damper back to the position in needed to be in to get the top bolt back into the damper tube (better with two peeps to do this bit) also helps to have the round bar inserted into the bottom of the verticle hole to help get the bolt in, remember to take the spacer out as I forgot and had to go backward and remove bothe bolts again to get it out!! dooh. Also on by trailer there was a washer with one side curved that went on the under side of the verticle bolt as it was being tightened onto the round tube and not a flat surface. Hope that helps and thanks for posting video, helped me a lot.
That's some fantastic information for me and others who need to do this job.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write it all out in the comments section. That will really help a lot of people.
All the best,
Jimmy 👍
Cut a bolt to just under the diameter of the drawbar and insert to knock out the bolt and take the strain of the damper. Make sure it is in the hole in the drawbar and under the outside diameter of the bar.
Insert the bolt knocking out the cut bolt when assembling, therebye taking the damper pressure as the cut bolt is moved out by the fixing bolt.
New nuts supplied are self locking, though not Nylex. They are ovalled so that they grip when tightened. Should not re-use self locking nuts of either type as they will not grip so tight second time used.
That's great info, which way do you put the oval nuts on ?
Tip, use a bit of string to tie the gaiter back while fitting the head.
Thank you, I've got to change the one on my tipper trailer next so I will do that 👍
Hi great vid helps me out a lot, can you change pin hitch cupping to a ball hitch coupling on Ivor Williams plant trailer without changing complete A frame? Thanks
Now that's something that I've never done but........
I presume the A frame stays as it is and you buy a new head unit to put on there.
Thanks
My pleasure 👍
hiya jim i have the same coupling ive snapped my key in the lock how can i change the lock or even get the old one off cheers
I have done one once years ago but on an indespension trailer.
I'm sure when you remove the coupling head, there is a thin bar that holds the lock in place and you knock that out.
I'm pretty sure the instructions are in the box when you buy the new lock.
If you are after security though, it is best to buy one of the big shroud locks that cover the entire head. Nothing will stop them taking it if they want it but it does slow them down a lot and causes them to make tons of noise.
If I get chance over summer I will see if I can make a video about changing a lock.
Best of luck,
Jimmy
Are the nuts they supply not locking nuts (philidas, squashed slightly)? Or you could use loctite. Nylocs don't hold after first use usually any better than plain nuts. But good vid, useful.
No they are just Nylok nuts.
I'm going to check them again tomorrow, now you have said that 👍
Have you a tutorial on repairing /replacing a damper
Not at the moment but it is somewhat I will be doing soon so make sure you are subscribed so you don't miss it.
Thanks for watching,
Jimmy 👍
@@JimmyTheMower Hello. Have you made one yet? Best Regards.
Yes, it's in the trailer playlist on the TH-cam channel.
It was a tricky task and required a jack and some blocks of wood to complete it.
All the best,
Jimmy 👍
@@JimmyTheMower Thanks!
My absolute pleasure 👍
Is there a bush where the break slides in and out of? I am in nz and trying to find a pic of that part to fix my donut trailer.
Not as I know too.
The plunger stem just fits directly in to the coupling head on the models I have got.
If you have got Instagram or twitter then send me a photo and I will try and work something out.
Thanks,
Jimmy
The older trailers do have a bush that keeps the drawtube snug in the hitch. Mine is a kf27 on my horse trailer and has the nylon bushes whereas newer hitches don't. I'm in the process of replacing them now.
@@Ollywin Yeap I got there in the end. I am in nz and it was built in uk. Managed to find a plastic bush which was a bit too thick so sanded it down to make it thinner then used lots of grease and banged it in.
@@moneymum5764 you wouldn't happen to have a link to it would you and do you remember if it had a nylon plug holding it in place? Cheers
The original was nylon. But here I could only get a plastic one. I have photos if you are on Facebook search facebook.com/allthingznice7 and message me on messenger. Bush www.trailerpartsnz.com/product_info.php/knott-45mm-draw-tube-bush-p-3344?osCsid=ff6r4ljgp30agepj3d32cqcvsv
I notice that there are two torque settings, are these 22mm lock nuts different? If so which torque setting applies?
I think it will be M14 see this www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/spanner-sizes/
Yes, you are correct 👍
Helpful video thanks. But you didn't give us any loud music . 😅
I'm trying to shy away from the loud music now 🤣🤣
Nylock nuts are ment to be one use only. You should really reuse them if you want them to lock.
Yes, very true 👍
👍
Thanks for watching 👍
Gun with a extension should of done it?
Bit like triggers broom this trailer
🤣🤣🤣
I've had it 15 years, it's had 4 new couplings and 8 new wheels 😉
You don't clean the old grease and put new one? 😮 That's not professional.
I'm a hobbyist, not a professional.
Why did u not put the drill on
I never use the drill to torque up nuts and bolts because they are too powerful and will easily strip the thread on mild steel nuts and bolts.
I do them as tight as I can by hand then use a torque wrench 👍