Just did a full brake job. Did a brake fluid flush, put in raybestos brake rotors and pads and going to go do this now. Thank you for the quality content
Over the years I've realised proper burnishing in of brakes is crucial to long brake life. On the same car, with the same components, there was a 3500km difference between them in favour of the burnished ones, and the Rotor grooving was almost non-existent on the burnished set, but grooved like an old record on the "fitted and go" set. Found this out with the first vehicle I kept long enough to go through 2 sets of brakes, it truly surprised me the difference between them!
Ty for the helpful video Had all 4 pads and rotors replaced on my terrain and it's been so loud and squeaky the neighbors dog is curious... Off to do some burnishing
Thx for the explanation. I work at Boeing, and our aluminum aircraft's outer skin has a very fine layer of raw aluminum (helps with corrosion). When it gets scratched we call out the 'Burnishing' team, and like you said - they polish the scratch out so like it was never there.
I just installed new old stock METALLIC pads lol no info on them I guess. They are rear pads but at first braking felt more front-heavy than before. After a bit things felt better but I still feel the brakes are not as responsive as before. Not sure if I need to do more bleeding of the brakes (did change one caliper) or if it's part of the break in period. When I did the fronts the kit said could take 1000 miles for them to fully break in.
I installed SP1399TRH and SP1400TRH on a '14 Ram 3500 dually with new rotors all around. Tried bedding procedure and nothing but burning brake smell. Did the four 40-10 moderate stops, then allowed it to cool down. Still stinking and smoking after stops. No noise like a hung caliper, just smoking and stinking. Wondering what is going on. Brakes are pretty spongy feeling also which didn't appear until I changed brands, which went Raybestos.
One mechanic took my car for a drive on my dime after dropping the transmission pan and doing the fluid, gasket, and filter. Told me I needed front brakes. Thanks tips.
@@Jason_Voorhees. Yep, me too, it's ultimately your name on the line, a boss that frowns on test driving cars to do such work will be the one that throws you under the bus, when something goes wrong and the customer is in the office with steam coming out of their ears. For me it's the RIGHT way or not at all!!
Extremely interesting and educational, thank you. Question please... Can the "material" left on the rotors by ceramic pads be removed? Like with a solvent or cleaner? I have noticed it is almost impossible to find a parts store that will machine rotors or drums anymore. Back in my day, the minimal machine tolerance was a lot more forgiving. I have to buy new rotors with every brake job? -ugh
I typically just do a more thorough version of this, make sure I'm braking straight and do some 60-20mph deceleration after 40-10mph runs. Bleed your brake fluid too!
I want to take my car to a track next summer. The car will have about 5,000 miles on it. I was planning on switching pads but using the same rotors. What would be the best way to remove the old brake pad film from the rotors so I can bed in the new pads properly?
Unfortunate most mechanic dont "Bed" or "Burnish" the pads. Those of us that are experienced, do it. Because it does extend the life of the compnents and helps braking.
I've done this bedding in process before, but have always ended up with warped rotors in the end. Now I don't bother. The pads will eventually bed in over time. The actual bedding in process is not worth the risk of warping your new rotors.
Are you checking your lateral runout? Bedding pads won't warp a rotor. But excessive lateral runout will lead to a thickness variation in the rotor over time.
kcg795 I hear you man. I always end up with glazed brake pads. After a week or so I would have to take the pads off and sand them down in order for them to grab.
Not true at all. Rotors dont actually "WARP" Its either run-out or brake pad material building up high spots on the rotor surface. You should always install new rotors with pads or else you may experience this.
Uhhh you are going to warp your rotors by sending it through a heat cycle? Kinda weird considering you will be doing that thousands of times throughout the life of your brakes, they are literally made to do that.
Technically you are polishing which is why it's called burnishing. Polishing means to make the surface smooth and shiny by rubbing which is exactly what you're doing.
The process of them degassing is simply running them through the powder paint booth which is about 425 degrees for about 25 minutes Edit, don't do this in your oven or you'll get a complaint or two.
I replaced all my rotors and pads last month, but I forgot to bed the brakes. Now it seems I have a pulsating feeling in the wheel. How do I fix that? They are ceramic pads.
@@FamiliaCeronSagrero Well, just yesterday I took a red scotch bright pad and cleaned off the rotors. The pulsating has been reduced alot, but not totally.
@@VaporheadATC Thanks for the update. I did the same, i just cleaned them off with brake cleaner, its minimal but I can only feel it when I'm braking from 60mph or more. At regular city speeds I can't feel it.
@@FamiliaCeronSagrero Well, I tore my brakes back down and discovered one of my brake pistons was seized inside the caliper, so only one of the pistons was working.
@@VaporheadATC I replaced the rotors again and added silicone grease to the brake pins and that did the trick. I think the old ones warped or something. This time I made sure they were super clean before putting it back together.
Just did a full brake job. Did a brake fluid flush, put in raybestos brake rotors and pads and going to go do this now. Thank you for the quality content
Over the years I've realised proper burnishing in of brakes is crucial to long brake life. On the same car, with the same components, there was a 3500km difference between them in favour of the burnished ones, and the Rotor grooving was almost non-existent on the burnished set, but grooved like an old record on the "fitted and go" set. Found this out with the first vehicle I kept long enough to go through 2 sets of brakes, it truly surprised me the difference between them!
Helpful video. Thank you! I've always found bedding new brakes pads to be effective, and I appreciate information directly from the manufacturer.
Ty for the helpful video
Had all 4 pads and rotors replaced on my terrain and it's been so loud and squeaky the neighbors dog is curious...
Off to do some burnishing
No nonsense straight up knowledge. Thank you for the video. Appreciate it.
We use to do that during the road test after a brake job, it was all part of the job.
The test drive isthe best part of the job, as long as you didn’t make any mistakes
EXCELLENT INFO AND PRESENTATION!!
Thx for the explanation.
I work at Boeing, and our aluminum aircraft's outer skin has a very fine layer of raw aluminum (helps with corrosion).
When it gets scratched we call out the 'Burnishing' team, and like you said - they polish the scratch out so like it was never there.
hows the door bolt situation going
Best info about creamic pads
I just installed new old stock METALLIC pads lol no info on them I guess. They are rear pads but at first braking felt more front-heavy than before. After a bit things felt better but I still feel the brakes are not as responsive as before. Not sure if I need to do more bleeding of the brakes (did change one caliper) or if it's part of the break in period. When I did the fronts the kit said could take 1000 miles for them to fully break in.
Great explanation thanks!! Good to know I’ve been doing it right
The Iceman. Nice info. Thank you for video
I installed SP1399TRH and SP1400TRH on a '14 Ram 3500 dually with new rotors all around. Tried bedding procedure and nothing but burning brake smell. Did the four 40-10 moderate stops, then allowed it to cool down. Still stinking and smoking after stops. No noise like a hung caliper, just smoking and stinking. Wondering what is going on. Brakes are pretty spongy feeling also which didn't appear until I changed brands, which went Raybestos.
Didn't know this was a thing! Thank you very much!
I highly doubt mechanics who perform brake jobs seat them or embed them after they are done. I could be wrong...
Not all do no. At least not at the truck centre I worked at.
I doubt most mechanics even bother to tell people to do it themselves
One mechanic took my car for a drive on my dime after dropping the transmission pan and doing the fluid, gasket, and filter. Told me I needed front brakes. Thanks tips.
When I was a general repair tech I would always do it even though the boss didn't like me doing it
@@Jason_Voorhees. Yep, me too, it's ultimately your name on the line, a boss that frowns on test driving cars to do such work will be the one that throws you under the bus, when something goes wrong and the customer is in the office with steam coming out of their ears. For me it's the RIGHT way or not at all!!
Honest question: What about new vehicles? I have never seen nor heard of a procedure like this for new cars.
I wonder the same
You need to bed in brakes to any car. It’s just plain physics since there’s mechanical friction.
Extremely interesting and educational, thank you. Question please... Can the "material" left on the rotors by ceramic pads be removed? Like with a solvent or cleaner? I have noticed it is almost impossible to find a parts store that will machine rotors or drums anymore. Back in my day, the minimal machine tolerance was a lot more forgiving. I have to buy new rotors with every brake job? -ugh
Change rotors if they are not turned. Don't reuse them when brakes are changed.
can this bedding in process be done with new discs as well or is there a different bedding in process?
I typically just do a more thorough version of this, make sure I'm braking straight and do some 60-20mph deceleration after 40-10mph runs. Bleed your brake fluid too!
I want to take my car to a track next summer. The car will have about 5,000 miles on it. I was planning on switching pads but using the same rotors. What would be the best way to remove the old brake pad film from the rotors so I can bed in the new pads properly?
you could probably get away with just resurface your rotors to save money
@@nickgarramone7499 Unless you have top notch rotors it's cheaper to replace than resurface unless you have the equipment and do it yourself!
Replace or turn the rotors. Do not use the old ones with new pads.
very educative.thank you.regards
is it necessary to do this with new brake pad a rotors wont they bind when you drive normally?
Yes most definitely to get the best braking from your new pads and rotors
Unfortunate most mechanic dont "Bed" or "Burnish" the pads. Those of us that are experienced, do it. Because it does extend the life of the compnents and helps braking.
Most? How do you know 'most' mechanics don't? Do you know all the mechanics..?
By not doing this bedding process could that cause my new brakes and rotors to shake at speeds of over 45?
Yes, exacly what happened to me
have to get rotors turned and new pads
@@jerrywilson2586 was able to return them back to the store for a new set. Brakes work great now 👍
Make sure the surface between the rotor and hub is spotless clean
I've done this bedding in process before, but have always ended up with warped rotors in the end. Now I don't bother. The pads will eventually bed in over time. The actual bedding in process is not worth the risk of warping your new rotors.
Are you checking your lateral runout? Bedding pads won't warp a rotor. But excessive lateral runout will lead to a thickness variation in the rotor over time.
kcg795 I hear you man. I always end up with glazed brake pads. After a week or so I would have to take the pads off and sand them down in order for them to grab.
Not true at all. Rotors dont actually "WARP" Its either run-out or brake pad material building up high spots on the rotor surface. You should always install new rotors with pads or else you may experience this.
Uhhh you are going to warp your rotors by sending it through a heat cycle? Kinda weird considering you will be doing that thousands of times throughout the life of your brakes, they are literally made to do that.
Nissan Xterra suv here. Great bedding process explained; just got new ceramic breaks; rotors; calipers. Thank you.
best advice so far ..
Great video thanks!
Technically you are polishing which is why it's called burnishing. Polishing means to make the surface smooth and shiny by rubbing which is exactly what you're doing.
Can you use ceramic pads on standard metallic slotted rotors?
Yes of course, all rotors are made of similar metals
Is this necessary for Rear break pads too??
No just the passenger front outer brake pad.
Thanks
You're forming the pad to the rotor! This is first day ASE stuff.... normal braking after install not Ricky Bobby braking.
TOP SHOW.
The process of them degassing is simply running them through the powder paint booth which is about 425 degrees for about 25 minutes
Edit, don't do this in your oven or you'll get a complaint or two.
Or go 80 mph lock up the brakes 1st try. That'll break them in instantly👍.
I replaced all my rotors and pads last month, but I forgot to bed the brakes. Now it seems I have a pulsating feeling in the wheel. How do I fix that? They are ceramic pads.
same here...have you found a solution?
@@FamiliaCeronSagrero Well, just yesterday I took a red scotch bright pad and cleaned off the rotors. The pulsating has been reduced alot, but not totally.
@@VaporheadATC Thanks for the update. I did the same, i just cleaned them off with brake cleaner, its minimal but I can only feel it when I'm braking from 60mph or more. At regular city speeds I can't feel it.
@@FamiliaCeronSagrero Well, I tore my brakes back down and discovered one of my brake pistons was seized inside the caliper, so only one of the pistons was working.
@@VaporheadATC I replaced the rotors again and added silicone grease to the brake pins and that did the trick. I think the old ones warped or something. This time I made sure they were super clean before putting it back together.
nobody says how hard to brake each timr at the speed s
Cohesion** but good explanation! Thank you!
I've had over 20 used cars,i do my own brakes never bed brakes!
I've had brake jobs done at numerous different shops and not a single one ever mentioned anything about bedding the brakes 🤦
We typically do it for you. Unless you get “one of those guys”
anyone ever tell you that you look like alex jones?