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How to Bed Brakes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2019
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A question we often get from technicians is "Do I need to bed or break in brake pads?" In this video, we discuss what brake pad burnishing is and why it is an important step to a quality brake job.
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The process of breaking in brake pads goes by several names in the industry. Some call it brake burnishing. We don't love to use that word since the definition of burnish actually means "polish". We aren't polishing the brake pads. Instead, we prefer to use the terms break-in or bedding when talking about this process. That is a more accurate representation of what we are doing to the brake pads.
Do you need to break in the brake pads? The short answer is yes. The best way to explain why this process is important is to talk about what the process accomplishes.
Ceramic Brake Pads
Ceramic is the most common material in the marketplace today and has been around for a number of years now. Ceramic brake pads are best for everyday drivers who don't require severe usage, but want a quiet brake pad with low dust.
Ceramic brake pads stop the vehicle by using adherent friction. Think adhesive or sticky when you hear adherent friction. Ceramic brake pads actually leave a thin layer of friction material on the rotor. This is called material transfer. When you apply ceramic brake pads, the brake pad sticks to the friction layer on the rotor to help stop the vehicle.
By completing the proper break-in procedure, you jumpstart the process of bedding the friction material onto the rotor.
Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
Semi-Metallic is the longest-tenured material in the marketplace. It's recommended to drivers looking for a strong pedal feel and great stopping power.
Semi-metallic brake pads stop the vehicle by using abrasive stopping. When you apply a semi-metallic brake pad, the metallic content in the brake pads grips onto the rotor to stop the vehicle.
As you can imagine, semi-metallic brake pads are rough to the feel out of the box. By breaking in semi-met pads, you will smooth out this roughness. You will also begin the process of mating the brake pads to the rotor. This will give you full contact between the pads and the rotor.
Releasing Gasses:
Whether you use a ceramic or semi-metallic pad, bedding the brakes will heat cycle the pad. This will release any gasses built up in the pad during the manufacturing process.
Most of Raybestos' brake pads are post-cured after they are made. This release most of the gasses in the pads, but not all of them. Don't think that you can skip the bedding process if your pad is post cured. You still need to heat cycle the pad so that the pad can release any gasses left in the friction material.
Bedding Process:
1.) Apply the brakes five to ten times decelerating from 40-10 mph. Don't slam on the brake pedal. Do normal stops.
2.) Allow for a 1/4 to 1/2 mile cool down between brake applications.
3.) Allow the brakes to cool for at least 15 minutes. Either park the vehicle or continue to drive with minimal brake applications.
By completing this process, your brake pads will be functioning properly and ready for everyday use.
Over the years I've realised proper burnishing in of brakes is crucial to long brake life. On the same car, with the same components, there was a 3500km difference between them in favour of the burnished ones, and the Rotor grooving was almost non-existent on the burnished set, but grooved like an old record on the "fitted and go" set. Found this out with the first vehicle I kept long enough to go through 2 sets of brakes, it truly surprised me the difference between them!
Just did a full brake job. Did a brake fluid flush, put in raybestos brake rotors and pads and going to go do this now. Thank you for the quality content
Helpful video. Thank you! I've always found bedding new brakes pads to be effective, and I appreciate information directly from the manufacturer.
Ty for the helpful video
Had all 4 pads and rotors replaced on my terrain and it's been so loud and squeaky the neighbors dog is curious...
Off to do some burnishing
No nonsense straight up knowledge. Thank you for the video. Appreciate it.
We use to do that during the road test after a brake job, it was all part of the job.
The test drive isthe best part of the job, as long as you didn’t make any mistakes
Thx for the explanation.
I work at Boeing, and our aluminum aircraft's outer skin has a very fine layer of raw aluminum (helps with corrosion).
When it gets scratched we call out the 'Burnishing' team, and like you said - they polish the scratch out so like it was never there.
hows the door bolt situation going
EXCELLENT INFO AND PRESENTATION!!
I installed SP1399TRH and SP1400TRH on a '14 Ram 3500 dually with new rotors all around. Tried bedding procedure and nothing but burning brake smell. Did the four 40-10 moderate stops, then allowed it to cool down. Still stinking and smoking after stops. No noise like a hung caliper, just smoking and stinking. Wondering what is going on. Brakes are pretty spongy feeling also which didn't appear until I changed brands, which went Raybestos.
Best info about creamic pads
I highly doubt mechanics who perform brake jobs seat them or embed them after they are done. I could be wrong...
Not all do no. At least not at the truck centre I worked at.
I doubt most mechanics even bother to tell people to do it themselves
One mechanic took my car for a drive on my dime after dropping the transmission pan and doing the fluid, gasket, and filter. Told me I needed front brakes. Thanks tips.
When I was a general repair tech I would always do it even though the boss didn't like me doing it
@@Jason_Voorhees. Yep, me too, it's ultimately your name on the line, a boss that frowns on test driving cars to do such work will be the one that throws you under the bus, when something goes wrong and the customer is in the office with steam coming out of their ears. For me it's the RIGHT way or not at all!!
I just installed new old stock METALLIC pads lol no info on them I guess. They are rear pads but at first braking felt more front-heavy than before. After a bit things felt better but I still feel the brakes are not as responsive as before. Not sure if I need to do more bleeding of the brakes (did change one caliper) or if it's part of the break in period. When I did the fronts the kit said could take 1000 miles for them to fully break in.
I've done this bedding in process before, but have always ended up with warped rotors in the end. Now I don't bother. The pads will eventually bed in over time. The actual bedding in process is not worth the risk of warping your new rotors.
Are you checking your lateral runout? Bedding pads won't warp a rotor. But excessive lateral runout will lead to a thickness variation in the rotor over time.
kcg795 I hear you man. I always end up with glazed brake pads. After a week or so I would have to take the pads off and sand them down in order for them to grab.
Not true at all. Rotors dont actually "WARP" Its either run-out or brake pad material building up high spots on the rotor surface. You should always install new rotors with pads or else you may experience this.
Uhhh you are going to warp your rotors by sending it through a heat cycle? Kinda weird considering you will be doing that thousands of times throughout the life of your brakes, they are literally made to do that.
Nissan Xterra suv here. Great bedding process explained; just got new ceramic breaks; rotors; calipers. Thank you.
Honest question: What about new vehicles? I have never seen nor heard of a procedure like this for new cars.
I want to take my car to a track next summer. The car will have about 5,000 miles on it. I was planning on switching pads but using the same rotors. What would be the best way to remove the old brake pad film from the rotors so I can bed in the new pads properly?
you could probably get away with just resurface your rotors to save money
@@nickgarramone7499 Unless you have top notch rotors it's cheaper to replace than resurface unless you have the equipment and do it yourself!
Replace or turn the rotors. Do not use the old ones with new pads.
Great explanation thanks!! Good to know I’ve been doing it right
Didn't know this was a thing! Thank you very much!
You're forming the pad to the rotor! This is first day ASE stuff.... normal braking after install not Ricky Bobby braking.
can this bedding in process be done with new discs as well or is there a different bedding in process?
I typically just do a more thorough version of this, make sure I'm braking straight and do some 60-20mph deceleration after 40-10mph runs. Bleed your brake fluid too!
is it necessary to do this with new brake pad a rotors wont they bind when you drive normally?
Yes most definitely to get the best braking from your new pads and rotors
Thanks
Extremely interesting and educational, thank you. Question please... Can the "material" left on the rotors by ceramic pads be removed? Like with a solvent or cleaner? I have noticed it is almost impossible to find a parts store that will machine rotors or drums anymore. Back in my day, the minimal machine tolerance was a lot more forgiving. I have to buy new rotors with every brake job? -ugh
Change rotors if they are not turned. Don't reuse them when brakes are changed.
By not doing this bedding process could that cause my new brakes and rotors to shake at speeds of over 45?
Yes, exacly what happened to me
have to get rotors turned and new pads
@@jerrywilson2586 was able to return them back to the store for a new set. Brakes work great now 👍
Make sure the surface between the rotor and hub is spotless clean
best advice so far ..
Great video thanks!
Is this necessary for Rear break pads too??
No just the passenger front outer brake pad.
very educative.thank you.regards
Can you use ceramic pads on standard metallic slotted rotors?
Yes of course, all rotors are made of similar metals
TOP SHOW.
Technically you are polishing which is why it's called burnishing. Polishing means to make the surface smooth and shiny by rubbing which is exactly what you're doing.
I've had brake jobs done at numerous different shops and not a single one ever mentioned anything about bedding the brakes 🤦
We typically do it for you. Unless you get “one of those guys”
I replaced all my rotors and pads last month, but I forgot to bed the brakes. Now it seems I have a pulsating feeling in the wheel. How do I fix that? They are ceramic pads.
same here...have you found a solution?
@@FamiliaCeronSagrero Well, just yesterday I took a red scotch bright pad and cleaned off the rotors. The pulsating has been reduced alot, but not totally.
@@VaporheadATC Thanks for the update. I did the same, i just cleaned them off with brake cleaner, its minimal but I can only feel it when I'm braking from 60mph or more. At regular city speeds I can't feel it.
@@FamiliaCeronSagrero Well, I tore my brakes back down and discovered one of my brake pistons was seized inside the caliper, so only one of the pistons was working.
@@VaporheadATC I replaced the rotors again and added silicone grease to the brake pins and that did the trick. I think the old ones warped or something. This time I made sure they were super clean before putting it back together.
nobody says how hard to brake each timr at the speed s
Unfortunate most mechanic dont "Bed" or "Burnish" the pads. Those of us that are experienced, do it. Because it does extend the life of the compnents and helps braking.
Cohesion** but good explanation! Thank you!
The process of them degassing is simply running them through the powder paint booth which is about 425 degrees for about 25 minutes
Edit, don't do this in your oven or you'll get a complaint or two.
anyone ever tell you that you look like alex jones?
Or go 80 mph lock up the brakes 1st try. That'll break them in instantly👍.
I've had over 20 used cars,i do my own brakes never bed brakes!