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Thank you, brilliant. Weill explained, great presentation and information.

My brake system smokes using semi met Maybe i put ceramic back

pisses me off these motherfuckers dont make the s-slot for the ford edges

I would have liked to have seen the other wheels brakes too.

Those Clips are to Just Warn you when the Brake Pads are Worn out you can hear the Wire Squeeling

I have less issue with the hub area rusting. My biggest concern is the brake surface rusting. I bought a set of brakes with geomet coating on the rotors and the hubs are fine, but honestly, I don't care if they look pretty. But the brake surface rusted, pitted and completely wore out a set of ceramic brake pads in 11 months/9,000 miles. I'm just looking for a rotor with better rust resistance in the metal itself, not a coating on top.

Interesting! Thank you.

These things are a nightmare to get off it must be said.

Just use what 90% of repair shops use: Sil-Glyde. Clean and lube caliper pins, clean caliper bracket insets of all rust, thin grease inset areas and install new hardware, use very small amount and in thin layer on top of clips where pad ears meet clips (don't apply to pad ears themselves), use on back of pads where piston and ears meet pads. Use Sil-Glyde for all. You'll never have a problem.

As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.

Just wanted to share some symptoms of brake hose clamp gone wrong... I to old to do my own services anymore, so took my 2018 Toyota to the local dealer. They checked and said it also needed new brake fluid.......I think they also adjusted the handbrake. The first highway trip I did about a week latter gave me the impression the handbrake was dragging slightly..... after about 5 miles at highway speeds the van started shaking like as if it have lost wheel balance weights, as I slowed down the vibration/ shaking went away.... I was checking engine temp and oil pressure the only thing that seemed wrong was the fuel economy read out was indicating real bad fuel economy and the vehicle was sluggish in acceleration... So I stopped and while checking if I had a loose wheel I discovered both back wheel hubs were so hot you could feel the radiant heat 6 inches away with your hand and it was accompanied by a burning smell. I let it cool for about two hours and then attempted to limp home, sort if feeling it was badly adjusted handbrake i was dealing with... Once home I phone the local garage that did my service and explained the problem and how I was not to keen to drive it any further, as I was staring to think such extreme heat could be burning the dif seals, hence the smell of burning... They sent out a mechanic who jacked both back wheels up and tried out the handbrake, it was stopping and releasing perfectly.... making me seem like the boy who cried wolf, as the problem seemed gone... Just as he was about to pack up he asked me to apply the foot brake, then he asked me to release the foot brake, he even checked to see I was no where near the foot brake, the back brakes were locked on hard. We were both puzzled at what could cause that, but when I mentioned the service included brake fluid change, he said ok ley me check something and dived under the van appearing a few seconds latter with their shops brake hose clamp.... After which the brakes were prefect again.... I post this in the hope it helps someone trying to sort their brake problems.

I use ceramic and its good braking. But semi metallic has more bite. But it is hotter in rotor disk and downhill is smoking. So im thinking for ceramic back

I want to buy some for my vehicle, but they only make the rear pads for it. How weird is that.

Can someone please help me I had brakes and did the vvt on the driver side on my 08 ford expedition and had the valve cover off and couldn't reach a bolt and had to turn the wheel so I could reach it and I turned the key to on to turn the wheel and after I put everything back together brake pedal is still stiff like your towing it and have no clue what caused that

Amazing

Thank you

I just wasted over 3 minutes of my life watching this damn video that I will never be able to get back!

Ty werry much. first vid that explains this!

What if while doing the pedal test the pedal goes all the way to the floor?

I've been using DOT-5 fluid in my 1962 Ford Falcon station wagon for over 30 years and have been very happy with it.

Have this on my “new for me” 2013 RAM. When repairing I’ve noticed that they do not use the steel clips in the bracket like we are used to seeing. The pad just rides in the bare bracket. I think that has a lot to do with this issue n my case.

I love this guy!! He is awesome!!!! Need more videos like this, he's a great teacher and your content is way better articulated than anyone else!

Wait what

Man i though i found my answer but this isnt it. My 93 chevy makes this noise when im letting off the brake coming from a complete stand still. Then if im in reverse i have to give gas to get it to start moving.

Thanks

Lmao just find out that one is missing on the passenger side of my passat, The clunking sound has driven my crazy and i cannot express how happy i am to find out it's a 10€ fix

Brilliant! A vid about adjustments with no adjusting. Moving on

Yup, exact same problem. I replaced the calipers but couldn't figure out why one brake was dragging. With the car parked I would push down on the brake pedal but by the time I got out of the car to the wheel to turn it, it had freed-up. The restriction was right where you said it could be, on the clamp.

Yeah I'm from California. What's pretty popular around here are organic vegan brake pads. Not my cup of tea, but what are ya going to do?

I found that metal brake drum tool years ago. Good to see it on youtube.

HERE'S WHICH DIRECTION TO TURN: Clockwise = Draws Pads In (To get rotors off) ☺ YOU'RE WELCOME

my rotors are Zinc Phosphate coated. they are sterile from any contamination.

Thank you for posting this.

replace the rubber brake hose is good practice, what about the hard line that connects to the caliper? is that one usually good to go?

very educational and helpful thank you.

Surprisingly this clunking/thumping noise only happens when I brake on a very steep downhill. Why would that happen? I wonder if it was to do with my ABS too

My rotor still will not cone off

Good advice!

I can’t find my particular squeak online. Mine isn’t a constant squeal. When I accelerate it’s like a rhythmic squeal. It stops when I let off the gas. It’s coming from what I can tell is the driver side rear.

Where can I buy that tool?

Bruh...I thought he was gonna go down the list of things specifically to look at first.

anyone ever tell you that you look like alex jones?

dammit i literally forgot how to put them back on and i've been doing this for 40 years!

Superb Instruction ! by a Superb Instructor !" Thank u Friend !"👍

Really good video :)

Brill vid. Thanks for posting 👍🙂🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

What a soothing man to listen to <3

I have a brake hose on the driver's side that appears to be sweating at a metal piece near the fitting by the caliper. I guess its always best to replace ASAP.

thank you. saved me from a heart attack

Do you think the master cylinder will cause all 4 brakes to slightly drag? I can release each one when I open the bleeder screw. Once I drive it for about 3-7 minutes it starts back dragging. I say slightly dragging because I can jack up the truck and turn them by hand with a lot of force. No leaks on the master cylinder or hydro boost. I’ve greased slider pins, bleeding the brakes 3 times, topped off the fluid on both power steering and brake fluid. Power steering is making the whining noise. Pedal is hard not soft. It’s a 2004 Suburban with hydro boost system. Please help.