You have come a long way young lad, great stuff and the fact you don't hide the surprises speaks volumes about your honesty, you deserve to do really well...
If you look close enough when the dead PSU is sitting on the bench after it's been taken out, there's clearly a cap in there that is extremely rounded which means it's leaked out all its electrolytic fluid and is either open or shorted😅
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
Usually when i have a desktop PC with similar problems, i test the PSU first with a cheep PSU tester. It shows are the main voltages present and so.. Saves a lot of times sometimes.
I looked up who makes a PSU for NZXT because I thought it would be funny if it was CIT but it's made by Seasonic. I have a CIT PSU that I've had for years without any problems. I don't remember buying it though, it just turned up in my collection one day.
Just rewatched this and you mentioned the presence of a second EPS power cable and lack of a second PCIe power cable. You can get EPS 8 pin to PCIe 6+2 pin adapters. They're very cheap on Ali Express, though they all seem to be of the ketchup & mustard variety. Nothing a bit of stick tape wrap could not disguise.
Better to use a small 500w atx powersupply for the "initial" tests.. a 1050w can burn a lot of shorted or partial shorted things before going to protection. On my shop I have a citfed an atx power cable a d I check 3.3v 5v 12v absorption using a bench regulated power supply
Would love to see the power supply teardown and repair for educational purposes to see why the low budget PSU fails and if it could be upgraded with higher quality components to save it from landfill
Tbh most of the time there's nothing to see. Lots of folks will scream; "It's the caps! Check the capacitors!" But in my experience, ATX PSUs rarely fail due to dead caps. More often it can be obscure issues with mosfets and switch mode timing and other nonsense that only a full-blown electronics engineer would even have a chance of approaching.
PC power supply repair is often not viable option. Wide range of components used and likelihood of failing again shortly after are the main reasons aside from danger of shock. Would make a great video though.
I have a bad habit of messing with crappy devices and from my experience, if we exclude capacitors there's still probably more than half of the failures I've seen that are pretty obvious. As in shorted secondary rectifier, shorted switching transistor, shorted bridge rectifier, exploded components, that kind of stuff that you can quickly find with a visual inspection and a multimeter. If we include bad capacitors then that number goes up drastically. It may not affect modern (as in last decade) decently-built PSUs anymore, but on low-end crap you still find these absolute garbage caps placed in hot spots that'll fail in a few years. They may not always bulge, but with experience you know what to look for (i.e., the 5VSB cap and the SMPS controller bootstrap cap, mainly). The issue is that higher end PSU fail of course much less often, as they use decent design and properly rated quality components (usually), so the common failure modes of the cheap stuff is less common on the higher-end stuff. The second problem is that they are much more complex, as they integrate a lot of circuitry to pull and supply clean power, have high efficiency and lots of protections, so much more difficult to diagnose complex problems as schematics are almost never available. I have never faced an issue with timings, other than a bad SMPS controller that'd inevitably kill the switching MOSFET if you don't change them both at the same time. But also there are a handful of PSUs that I never managed to fully diagnose, and they were of the more complex and exotic kind (I can think of two with output regulation issues and one with a protection that triggers when slightly warm, all not standard ATX and with multiple PCBs).
Nice video, I do not like cheap PSU's. I recently bought a new graphics card to match a new monitor, my old Asus gaming monitor got the black screen of death, I had bought which is 4k. The card was a Nvidia RTX 4070 ti super not cheap, when I switched on one day the card set on fire, lucky for me the psu, a Corsair 650w shut the pc down. I took the card back and they put it on thier test rig and it set fire on there too so they gave me a new card. I took the opertunity to upgrade the PSU at the same time changing to a Corsair 850w gold just to be safe. These new top of the range cards now reccomend using two power cables with the new connector not daisy chaining on one cable, they supply a adapter which is a bit of a ugly solution to cable tidy fanatics. I would imagine newer psu will at some time have cables to match the new connector on the graphics card so you do not need the adapter cable. Keep up the good work i realy enjoy your videos and your diagnosis routine. Chris H.
Once again, this is a classic case of ‘saving at the wrong end.’ I simply don't understand why the power supply unit is being treated so casually by many users.
yeah one thing i learned is that never buy cheap PSUs, somewhere down the line they will cause system problems. Antec stuff i found were bad, Had one in my PC i build as a server for Microsoft lab, and that killed the drives, and i bought another Antec unit, and that one killed a slot one dual processor motherboard, after a while, it killed the fan controllers on the board. i was running the same model of PSU in my daily, and my daily was starting to have stability issues. So that was replaced with a Corsar unit, and daily has been spot on. The dual processor system, i dropped a later Dual processor board and i went corsar too, Dropped a larger 1000w unit it for the sake of argument, and again that ones been a cracker of a system. Gaming rigs you want the best stuff, not the cheap stuff, cheap stuff to me, should be used for testing only
@@blakecasimir Yeah - Corsair are not that great either. In the past I had a few Cooler Master Silent Pro power supply's that were very durable, but these day's I mostly use the Seasonic Focus series.
I do have some sympathy for people - you used to be able to buy a Corsair CX550 for like, £45. And sure they're not indestructible either, but they're league and bounds better than the tin-box PSUs like CIT. But these days if you want something that's 'premium', even at modest wattages like 550 or 650, you're looking at £70, and that's money people want to put into the CPU/GPU that actually makes the PC go faster. All that being said, I actually think this is just a cheap pre-build by some rando PC builder, and they just didn't care.
Hi Adam could you please touch on input and output voltages and signal voltage also what is voltage good reading how many volts is that thank you and really enjoy watching your videos really appreciate it helps us alot
Naa, it was just out of place. It has rubber shock-mounts that weren't sitting correctly. I did fix it while fitting the new PSU, but wasn't really worth mentioning...
I just built a gaming pc that consist of a ryzen 7 7800x3d, asus B650e-i motherboard, 2 corsair vengeance ddr5 5600mhz 16 gb ram sticks, evga 850 watt power supply, and a AMD rx6600 8gb video card all in inside a Fractal Ridge case. It works but it takes about 34 seconds to post every time and I updated to the latest bios and tried tinkering with some settings with no luck. When It do post it boots into windows 11 very quick and everything works as should. I’m amazed at how fast this machine is and it runs games and edit videos effortlessly. I just have a problem with the post times. Someone help me, thanks.
Thats a pretty capable build. Its comical to me seeing that tiny mobo. Ive watched technology change for the last 35 years. The gfx card/cpu boom from 96 to '09 was quite exciting but left you scrambling to make your system viable.
I have an EVGA 650 watt Gold GQ. Is this any good cant seem to find were it should be on the PSU ist?? seems fin to me 5 yr guarantee and it gold semi mod
isnt that good imo, it lasted just 3 years on my main pc and when i went to the evga site it said that was out of warranty. my model was a GQ650 semimodular.
Hey Adam there is a YTer name Greg Salazar he is in america and he uses a power supply tester it my be a good idea to ask him where he got one and maybe you could use one?
I don't trust them. They're only good to tell you if the PSU is stone-dead. A PSU can give you fan spin and light up some LEDs on a tester, but then completely fall over as soon as you put a load on it.
It's on the shelf atm because the modular cables on it are severely worn out! I've bought a crimping tool and pins to re-make the connectors - it will return 😄
It's actually a pretty compact Midi case... but if you're running a microATX mobo and a modest GPU, it's kinda unavoidable to end up with a lot of empty space. There's just not a lot _stuff_ in modern gaming PCs, so the traditional tower layout is looking inefficient.
Here is my question - i've seen you repairing a lot of motherboards with probing and soldering and it seems that you're know what you're doing , so why aren't you try and fix the PSU the same way you're doing with motherboards ? i'm guessing that a person that knows how to work with DC should be able to work with AC as well , correct me if i'm wrong and mislead me if I'm right
PSUs are kind of a rabbit hole. Very occasionally it's as simple as a bad capacitor - and I've fixed small PSUs (integrated ones, not a big ATX unit) this way in the past. But ATX PSUs are usually much more complex in failure, and you need to get into mosfet diagnostics including switching frequencies and timings and all that stuff. TL;DR, for the cost of an ATX PSU, repair is almost never worth while even if you know how to approach it.
thanks god youre not one of those idiots nowadays that put like 100 zipties, and call it a "premium" service and charge a lot on a simple psu replacement.
I think this was built by a small PC builder who just didn't care. Lots of folks out there who are quite happy to stick in decent head-line components like CPU/GPU, and then spend as little as possible on everything else.
I've done sub-zero overclocking on a 13900k with that PSU. The Gamemax Gold-rated PSUs are fine. The bronze ones are actually what I was refering to with the 'slightly cheaper than NZXT' option... I've never had issues with them, but their build quality can vary, which gets them an F-tier rating. So... yea I'd use one at a push, but I wouldn't recommend them.
CIT POWER SUPPLY WHAT IS THAT USER THINKING OFF? YES, i THAT MAD THAT I USED ALL CAPS ALSO, I HOPE THAT'S A FULL ATX MOTHERBOARD. NEVER EVER EVER BUY CHEAP PSUS THEY CAN BURN YOUR HOME AND NO THAT'S NOT A JOKE ..
You have come a long way young lad, great stuff and the fact you don't hide the surprises speaks volumes about your honesty, you deserve to do really well...
Standby power... And, ignition!
*Litteral ignition follows*
If you look close enough when the dead PSU is sitting on the bench after it's been taken out, there's clearly a cap in there that is extremely rounded which means it's leaked out all its electrolytic fluid and is either open or shorted😅
Should tell you all you need to know about CiT.
@@blakecasimir exactly🤣
Can he fix it? Yes, he can! 👍
That original PSU was clearly CHIT.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
1:19 flash back sunday we all learn from that moment
Usually when i have a desktop PC with similar problems, i test the PSU first with a cheep PSU tester. It shows are the main voltages present and so.. Saves a lot of times sometimes.
Very good one! Thanks for the nostalgic run! ✌✌
Thank-you for always post your knowledge ❤
Great series name. I dig the quick and easy format and solution.
I looked up who makes a PSU for NZXT because I thought it would be funny if it was CIT but it's made by Seasonic.
I have a CIT PSU that I've had for years without any problems. I don't remember buying it though, it just turned up in my collection one day.
Ah, the old "It followed me home" excuse. :)
@@danielayers that's definitely what happened.
Just rewatched this and you mentioned the presence of a second EPS power cable and lack of a second PCIe power cable. You can get EPS 8 pin to PCIe 6+2 pin adapters. They're very cheap on Ali Express, though they all seem to be of the ketchup & mustard variety. Nothing a bit of stick tape wrap could not disguise.
Informative content good work
Well done as always. I had a similar problem with a skytech pc. Bummed power supply.
"Darn!" LOL
That was some Alan Partridge level over dubbing haha. Really made me chuckle 😆
Brilliant as always Adam!
Never skimp on your power supply - its like buying a ferrari and putting a little 4cyl into it. A quality unit will last you quite a few pc builds.
Better to use a small 500w atx powersupply for the "initial" tests.. a 1050w can burn a lot of shorted or partial shorted things before going to protection. On my shop I have a citfed an atx power cable a d I check 3.3v 5v 12v absorption using a bench regulated power supply
Darnking hell. LOL.
Would love to see the power supply teardown and repair for educational purposes to see why the low budget PSU fails and if it could be upgraded with higher quality components to save it from landfill
Tbh most of the time there's nothing to see. Lots of folks will scream; "It's the caps! Check the capacitors!"
But in my experience, ATX PSUs rarely fail due to dead caps. More often it can be obscure issues with mosfets and switch mode timing and other nonsense that only a full-blown electronics engineer would even have a chance of approaching.
PC power supply repair is often not viable option. Wide range of components used and likelihood of failing again shortly after are the main reasons aside from danger of shock. Would make a great video though.
@@Adamant_ITAgreed, however a super quick teardown video would be interesting. No repair though, it's just not worth it.
I have a bad habit of messing with crappy devices and from my experience, if we exclude capacitors there's still probably more than half of the failures I've seen that are pretty obvious. As in shorted secondary rectifier, shorted switching transistor, shorted bridge rectifier, exploded components, that kind of stuff that you can quickly find with a visual inspection and a multimeter.
If we include bad capacitors then that number goes up drastically. It may not affect modern (as in last decade) decently-built PSUs anymore, but on low-end crap you still find these absolute garbage caps placed in hot spots that'll fail in a few years. They may not always bulge, but with experience you know what to look for (i.e., the 5VSB cap and the SMPS controller bootstrap cap, mainly).
The issue is that higher end PSU fail of course much less often, as they use decent design and properly rated quality components (usually), so the common failure modes of the cheap stuff is less common on the higher-end stuff. The second problem is that they are much more complex, as they integrate a lot of circuitry to pull and supply clean power, have high efficiency and lots of protections, so much more difficult to diagnose complex problems as schematics are almost never available.
I have never faced an issue with timings, other than a bad SMPS controller that'd inevitably kill the switching MOSFET if you don't change them both at the same time. But also there are a handful of PSUs that I never managed to fully diagnose, and they were of the more complex and exotic kind (I can think of two with output regulation issues and one with a protection that triggers when slightly warm, all not standard ATX and with multiple PCBs).
some rule I got told many years ago when I built my first PC never go cheap on the PSU
Been using a corsair cx750m for the last 10 years from 3 different builds.Goes to show dont skimp on your psu a good one will last a very long time...
i love it when you say a 3060 ti is mid range. 🤣🤣🤣 still rocking my 1660 super
yeeee... For the record, it's a nice GPU and totally respectable, it's just midrange when you're looking at the entire product stack.
The DUOLINGO of faulty pc part solving!
would be interesting to take apart bad power supply and see what failed
Got the same PSU for my sli setup Gamemax 1050W. Great PSU 👍
don't forget the motherboard connector supplies 75 w
Nice video, I do not like cheap PSU's. I recently bought a new graphics card to match a new monitor, my old Asus gaming monitor got the black screen of death, I had bought which is 4k. The card was a Nvidia RTX 4070 ti super not cheap, when I switched on one day the card set on fire, lucky for me the psu, a Corsair 650w shut the pc down. I took the card back and they put it on thier test rig and it set fire on there too so they gave me a new card. I took the opertunity to upgrade the PSU at the same time changing to a Corsair 850w gold just to be safe. These new top of the range cards now reccomend using two power cables with the new connector not daisy chaining on one cable, they supply a adapter which is a bit of a ugly solution to cable tidy fanatics. I would imagine newer psu will at some time have cables to match the new connector on the graphics card so you do not need the adapter cable. Keep up the good work i realy enjoy your videos and your diagnosis routine. Chris H.
Once again, this is a classic case of ‘saving at the wrong end.’ I simply don't understand why the power supply unit is being treated so casually by many users.
yeah one thing i learned is that never buy cheap PSUs, somewhere down the line they will cause system problems. Antec stuff i found were bad, Had one in my PC i build as a server for Microsoft lab, and that killed the drives, and i bought another Antec unit, and that one killed a slot one dual processor motherboard, after a while, it killed the fan controllers on the board. i was running the same model of PSU in my daily, and my daily was starting to have stability issues. So that was replaced with a Corsar unit, and daily has been spot on. The dual processor system, i dropped a later Dual processor board and i went corsar too, Dropped a larger 1000w unit it for the sake of argument, and again that ones been a cracker of a system. Gaming rigs you want the best stuff, not the cheap stuff, cheap stuff to me, should be used for testing only
@@procta2343Corsair have their share of tat PSUs also: don't buy VS series under any circumstance.
100% agree, cheaping out on PSU can lead with some serious damage. Never cheap on PSU that's gold rule that i try to follow as much as possible.
@@blakecasimir Yeah - Corsair are not that great either. In the past I had a few Cooler Master Silent Pro power supply's that were very durable, but these day's I mostly use the Seasonic Focus series.
I do have some sympathy for people - you used to be able to buy a Corsair CX550 for like, £45. And sure they're not indestructible either, but they're league and bounds better than the tin-box PSUs like CIT.
But these days if you want something that's 'premium', even at modest wattages like 550 or 650, you're looking at £70, and that's money people want to put into the CPU/GPU that actually makes the PC go faster.
All that being said, I actually think this is just a cheap pre-build by some rando PC builder, and they just didn't care.
I have the GameMax 1050w psu also and love it.
Take a small flat fine file and reduce the plastic catches on the USB connector and it will release easier.
Mouse: G603?
Aye nailed it... OCP not to be associated with the waste of time Robocop RC game. Edit Gamemax vs CIT😶🌫🤔
Hi Adam could you please touch on input and output voltages and signal voltage also what is voltage good reading how many volts is that thank you and really enjoy watching your videos really appreciate it helps us alot
Are those horrible plastic coated metal cable ties there! or just temp and zip ties to be used.
The 3060 Ti pulls like 200W so the single cable is just fine.
Nice one. Did you see how the HDD cage was bent? I wonder if that wore on one of the cables and blew the PSU?
It was bent for sure but making the psu not turn on? Nah
Naa, it was just out of place. It has rubber shock-mounts that weren't sitting correctly. I did fix it while fitting the new PSU, but wasn't really worth mentioning...
You didn't check the battery voltage while you had the graphics card off? ;)
I see a bulging cap inside the PSU
Nice one.
What did you do with the dead PSU? To the bin?
same place it should have gone when new
@@Nebbia_affaraccimiei😂
@@Nebbia_affaraccimiei Lmao
I mean, I thought he'd maybe salvage the fan at least, idk
Couldn't the faulty psu be repaired?
What burned up on the motherboard?
My 3060 TI and jewel eight pin on my ATT and jewel eight pin
Ooh, no preamble, ok.
Where's the Antec ?
I just built a gaming pc that consist of a ryzen 7 7800x3d, asus B650e-i motherboard, 2 corsair vengeance ddr5 5600mhz 16 gb ram sticks, evga 850 watt power supply, and a AMD rx6600 8gb video card all in inside a Fractal Ridge case. It works but it takes about 34 seconds to post every time and I updated to the latest bios and tried tinkering with some settings with no luck. When It do post it boots into windows 11 very quick and everything works as should. I’m amazed at how fast this machine is and it runs games and edit videos effortlessly. I just have a problem with the post times. Someone help me, thanks.
£10 it's the PSU...it's a short
Thats a pretty capable build. Its comical to me seeing that tiny mobo. Ive watched technology change for the last 35 years. The gfx card/cpu boom from 96 to '09 was quite exciting but left you scrambling to make your system viable.
I have an EVGA 650 watt Gold GQ. Is this any good cant seem to find were it should be on the PSU ist?? seems fin to me 5 yr guarantee and it gold semi mod
isnt that good imo, it lasted just 3 years on my main pc and when i went to the evga site it said that was out of warranty. my model was a GQ650 semimodular.
Hey Adam there is a YTer name Greg Salazar he is in america and he uses a power supply tester it my be a good idea to ask him where he got one and maybe you could use one?
I don't trust them. They're only good to tell you if the PSU is stone-dead. A PSU can give you fan spin and light up some LEDs on a tester, but then completely fall over as soon as you put a load on it.
What happened to our trusty Antec 😢
It's on the shelf atm because the modular cables on it are severely worn out! I've bought a crimping tool and pins to re-make the connectors - it will return 😄
@@Adamant_IT YAYYY Cant wait for it's return LMFAO. Make a video on you doing it, that would be cool!!!!!
Whats a point of a massive case like that. Its half empty.
It's actually a pretty compact Midi case... but if you're running a microATX mobo and a modest GPU, it's kinda unavoidable to end up with a lot of empty space.
There's just not a lot _stuff_ in modern gaming PCs, so the traditional tower layout is looking inefficient.
The fan twitches because you hit it's knee with a rubber hammer.
Legit, I want to know this truthfuly.... How are there 20 dislikes on this video???
Probably all CIT psu owners. 😆
@@ShinyHelmet LULZ
Here is my question - i've seen you repairing a lot of motherboards with probing and soldering and it seems that you're know what you're doing ,
so why aren't you try and fix the PSU the same way you're doing with motherboards ?
i'm guessing that a person that knows how to work with DC should be able to work with AC as well , correct me if i'm wrong and mislead me if I'm right
PSUs are kind of a rabbit hole. Very occasionally it's as simple as a bad capacitor - and I've fixed small PSUs (integrated ones, not a big ATX unit) this way in the past.
But ATX PSUs are usually much more complex in failure, and you need to get into mosfet diagnostics including switching frequencies and timings and all that stuff. TL;DR, for the cost of an ATX PSU, repair is almost never worth while even if you know how to approach it.
@@Adamant_IT Thank you for your answer - I love your videos - keep them up :)
40 seconds in and I knew it was the power supply also 😂
thanks god youre not one of those idiots nowadays that put like 100 zipties, and call it a "premium" service and charge a lot on a simple psu replacement.
The video title brought back memories of the "Cant Print on Tuesdays" bug in Linux by Brodie Robertson (th-cam.com/video/-6fPfwixNLk/w-d-xo.html)
What an itty bitty little MoBo!
MATX in a ATX case the alwayys look small, hate PC built like this the look so out of proportion (OCD kicks in. XD)
I dont understand people who buy an RTX card, a large case but a tiny motherboard. Not to mention the crappy power supply
I think this was built by a small PC builder who just didn't care. Lots of folks out there who are quite happy to stick in decent head-line components like CPU/GPU, and then spend as little as possible on everything else.
Lmao!! Maybe the owner of a Gamemax psu should'nt cast stones!!!!
hahah yeah i think id rathe CiT than gamemax
I've done sub-zero overclocking on a 13900k with that PSU. The Gamemax Gold-rated PSUs are fine. The bronze ones are actually what I was refering to with the 'slightly cheaper than NZXT' option... I've never had issues with them, but their build quality can vary, which gets them an F-tier rating. So... yea I'd use one at a push, but I wouldn't recommend them.
CIT POWER SUPPLY WHAT IS THAT USER THINKING OFF? YES, i THAT MAD THAT I USED ALL CAPS ALSO, I HOPE THAT'S A FULL ATX MOTHERBOARD. NEVER EVER EVER BUY CHEAP PSUS THEY CAN BURN YOUR HOME AND NO THAT'S NOT A JOKE ..
Truth!! Go cheap on other things. NOT Power Supply
May be he did not buid the system
y no reparaste la fuente....
Shity PSU, shity MB, shity build.