I had one of those HDMI capacitors fall off, it turned into an hours long nightmare. I tried doing the port first, that didn't work. Tried doing the capacitor first, then it blew away doing the port, then I couldn't do the capacitor with the port in, so I took it back out, then I dropped it had to get a new one, then I did the capacitor next the port, when I was soldering a loose leg I knocked the cap off and soldered it to the legs of the port, then bridged a bunch of legs trying to get it off, so I took the port off again to clean up the legs of the HDMI port. Finally I said fuck it, I'm going to do it all at once, so I tinned everything, covered it with flux and used hot air on the back to reflow it all, and... it actually worked. See kids! It's easy! Soldering's fun!
Tip i learned for easy hdmi soldering. Pre tin the pads Also pre tin the pins Enough flux Place the connector. Heat gun from below and press when the tin melts. As if a machine did it for you. (I say tin... I am Dutch)
Yep, exactly so, makes your life easier. Heat from below, just as you removed the connector. Makes sure the port doesn't melt, and you get a good bond on the grounding lugs. Don't even need to clean the holes that way.
29:20 The way to do that is to push the connector down and while holding it in position then solder the anchors on the top side. At the same time as pushing down, the hdmi pins will push up slightly since you put solder on the pads. This is good. Add flux. Now all you have to do is touch the iron to each pin and it will drop down and be automatically soldered. Then add more solder to the anchors on bottom side. BTW, to steady your hand while doing smd work, put your wrist on the bench and pivot your hand left/right to position tweezers/parts. Don't try to do smd work with your hand flapping in the breeze because you will have innacurate part positioning. Overall you did a pretty good job but that too-big resistor will haunt you with nightmares for life. If you don't have the correct size part take the correct size part off a Mac board (if available) as they are not much good for anything else, even when fully working ;-)
I would recommend just using straight hot air when resoldering the pins on the port. As you experienced the tips are typically too big, whereas if you heat from the bottom of the board, it will melt those solder joints just the same, and the port will just sit in place naturally.
WoW I'm speechless that this PS5 even worked especially after The Blob (1958) Staring Steve McQueen Invaded that HDMI. I truly thought this unit was toast. But you were able to work a true Miracle and bring it back to life.🤗🥳
That's one lucky owner right there (a) because the PS5 is, as you say, pretty tough, & (b) because you have mastered the skills needed to assess it and to rescue it. Good outcome.
Funny how it means different things. Among my circle "grip tape" was the stuff you stuck on skateboards and stairs, lol. It's like a thin self adhesive asphalt shingle.
That looked kind of medieval repair attempt... I can't imagine a shop doing this kind of job, my bet is that it was a DIY attempt or some friend that watched a YT video and thought he could do it with a 10$ soledring iron with a 20mm tip...
Yeah - I know that kind of incidents very well. You absolutely have to take a short break, because it gets more worse the longer you keep going. I am only glad that it does not happen too often. Even at my age (I am almost 70), my hands are steady enough to do that fine SMD work with tiny components. And indeed - He did a great job.
If you get stuck with a big iron and need small one. Get some copper wire from a single core mains cable wrap it around the solder iron tip and leave a bit longer end cut clean the end use that. It won't last more one time use but should get you out of a tight spot.
When I was a kid I used plumber's solder to solder car speaker wires. I think it make them turn green, lol. I didn't even know there was different kinds of solder.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I was using plumbers flux for a while until I realized the error. Zinc based and conductive. Circuits weren’t working, components getting fried, electricity was arcing, I had no idea what was going on… as flux it worked AMAZINGLY though.
The problem is people see a video and think "I can do that easily", they then attempt a repair and it looks like this. I've got over 20 years of experience in repair but if I do something for the 1st time then I'm extremely careful and use the correct stuff for the job.
15:00 I think someone else said they're the same or compatible inductors with the ones on Nintendo Switch boards, so if you have any of those as donors, you don't have to order new ones.
Years ago I had to bin a multiport RS232 comm board from a machine control computer. The machine was subjected to an overvoltage event finding its way to the (at the time) infamous RS232 interface chips. A very proud electrician showed me how he had removed the chips, ready for socket mounting. He managed to cut out the DIL chips, remove the pins and then use compressed air to clean the thru holes while the solder was hot. The result was a PCB plastered with solder splatter and blops all over ... The board was a disastrous mess, literally. Solder blops and splatter bridging just about anything on the board. Tracks shorted out, plastic parts engraved with solder, solder bridges under larger components. Like the board had been dipped in hot solder. I explained him this meant a new control board. I did not even want to try solder in sockets and test the board. It looked like a very bad liquid metal disaster you see these days ...
Why does so many people not put pride in their work? Missing/stripped screws, not properly fitted, “chernobyl” repair etc. I mean, you’re working on other peoples stuff.
Actually quite astounding that it was even salvageable. "Plumbers" flux is usually an ammonium chloride based flux. On heat it becomes acidic, "eating" the surface of the copper pipes to clean them. It's virtually disastrous for circuit board, as the choride part continues corroding away traces and components. Oftimes requiring a water type washdown to remove it along with a good forced drying. You were super lucky it didn't go any further and ruin the board completely. I've seen it happen first-hand. I've been doing this for a LONG time now and some of the so-called attempted "repairs" have been brought in ended up being a no-fix due to the damages another person caused to the unit.
Have you tried using solder paste... never heard you mention it before, so perhaps it's not something you're aware of...? Great for small items both to hold in place and to solder with an iron.
That is astounding that it apparently worked, to some degree. I remember the first repair job I did, it wss a DC jack on a laptop. I went out and bought a bunch of stuff, it was an investment though and that was a very simple job! I can't imagine looking at an HDMI port and thinking you could do this with a DIY heat gun and some plumbers flux... I'm a big fan of the knife tip too, I know it's all preference but it just seems to be the most versatile for this type of work anyway.
are you using a Durgod keyboard? never seen anyone else using one. they make absolutely phenomenal keyboards. like, just by picking it up, the material and build quality is amazing. lol not to make this a plug. love your videos!
@@Adamant_IT ah, I have a couple RKs too. I'd rank them probably just behind Durgod in all around quality. but it's hard to convey exactly what feels so good about the Dg ones but I want to say it's the material build quality. RK feel solid, no doubt about it but you could probably beat someone half to death with a Durgod and only lose 1 or 2 caps by the end of it haha. pretty small Chinese company also so if you ever feel like a pleasant surprise, try reaching out to them. I bet theyd send you one to "review" lol I've listened to your shop-talk (while I work) enough that I think you'd appreciate the same qualities that I do. cheers 🍻
Man, you have a nice sense of humor. I am a big fan of yours. You are super honest, you say what you think. That's what I like about you. You are also super talented in your job.
@@harshbarjI use an electric screwdriver on everything nowadays. Not a drill… an electric screwdriver, like pencil shaped. If the screw is stuck I break the seal manually then the rest of the way with the motor.
@@Joostinonline thats what the different modes are for. I use a nocry its so good and also can go up in torque rivalling a (very) cheap drill. That being said, I dont do any of that for a living and I use manual screwdrivers more often lol
JBC Micro Tweezers make these jobs are lot easier in my opinion, instead of having the risk of tiny components blowing away with hot air. Flux flux flux, use it first when tinning pads. I use Hakko main irons and use the micro pencil for most small stuff. Maybe JBC has something similar, although their prices can be a little obscene.
The new meta for these ports is to just heat up the underside with hot air and drop the new HDMI port on top and jiggle it a bit, and you are done. Safes you ton of time clearing ports etc. The only thing you need to do is pre tin the legs of the HDMI port beforehand.
I actually tried this yesterday on a rush-job that I wasn't filming, I can definitely see how it works, but I haven't mastered the trick to not damaging the new port with hot air. I need a 1000w station, my 600w Quick is too slow to get the joints flowing before the port plastic starts melting. Definitely going to pre-tin the legs on the port at least though, as that solves the issue of not having enough solder on them, but also not wanting to add more solder and risk bridging everything into a mess.
Opening that case reminded me of using the same "thump the side" method we used to open some, Brother, electronic typewriters back when they were a thing. Please don't think of how old I must be. I suspect many of your viewers wont ever have seen one.
Excellent repair as always. You are far too modest about your skill. You mentioned Paul Daniels: have you seen his latest video about a very dodgy Macbook?
Why do you hate flux? You are using way too low especially when tinning pads. Also low quantities tend to burn faster leaving a messy job. Also, using an optical stereo microscope will definitely improve the quality of the job
reuse and clean up the liquid metal 100% no issues. The flux you are using appears to be trash. Try a different brand may help. Congrats on the successful repair. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I'm sure you are asked this all the time, but do you ever tell your customers to watch their repair on your channel? I'm sure some would find it fascinating. They would probably cry after seeing the condition the last shop left their PS5 in. Nice fix!
When I saw that HDMI port, NGL I also lost my shit... dying from laughter at your reaction! I'd react the same if I found out someone attacked a motherboard with a hacksaw and glue. Good job on the repair nonetheless.
I did a usb c connector on the end of the psvr2 cable last week, i often wonder why they make it that small because I wouldn’t mind a bigger sturdier connection for something like that, anyway 24-pin usb c is a real pain to solder and since there is logic in the end of the cable it was the only way
You really should have taken the last hdmi filter off, and refreshed the solder pads. As it stands, plumbers flux could be eating away at the solder joints on it.
Great job. You might have more luck attaching small SMD parts with a fine tip soldering iron after flattening the pads using Mr. Solderfix's technique, avoids the risk of them blowing away.
The solder you are using doesn't seen to "behave" the same way I see in other repair channels. Almost looks like lead free... Is that it? If not have you tried other brands / alloys. The most common leaded solder alloys are (Tin/Lead/Silver) 63/37, 62/36/2, 60/40, 50/50 and 40/60. Idk with one is better. Could also be the flux issue.
It really really worries me that PCBs are by now right on the giddy edge of being impossible to work on by hand, and another few years might see this switch to needing robotics as used for surgery!
I’m hoping the laws of electricity and physics don’t allow it to get much smaller lol. We have to be reaching the max with the materials we are using nowadays.
Yes, it looks like they used plumber solder that’s a lot of heavy flux never use plumbers solder or flux if they left that on their long enough it would’ve destroyed the circuit board that would’ve went green & corrode the plumber solder and flux is too heavy for it
It's not that it was attempted by someone who was under prepapred and way out of their depth, the problem is that your customer was, presumably, charged for it.
That dry spot on the APU is probably the worst I've seen on a PS5 P.S- Reusing liquid metal should be fine but I would rub the whole chip with a cue-tip thoroughly do undo the corrosion
That would be wonderful due to how many there are - but it'd need to be fairly beefy. More like one of the small power tool looking ones than the quick electronic ones I have.
You only have the owners word that someone else had a look at this first... It could well have been the owner? Either way, brave of you to take the job on. Nice fix.
No offense... watching this made me appreciate people like Northridge Fix and others' skills even more. But also remember that even us humans can fix things, since it worked.
These screws need a lot of force to undo, my little electric screwdriver doesn't have the grunt for them. You'd need a much beefier one. I could start it off manually, but with screws this tough, it puts a lot of stress on the gearbox and knackers it if you do it all the time.
For most other things I do/fix, the LTT screwdriver is colossal overkill in a 'you could bought an entire set of Weras for this...' kind of way, but unironically it would be perfect for this specific job.
What do you even charge for something like this? I have no idea what these parts cost, but I feel like with all the work you did it's half the cost of the console at least.
I had one of those HDMI capacitors fall off, it turned into an hours long nightmare. I tried doing the port first, that didn't work. Tried doing the capacitor first, then it blew away doing the port, then I couldn't do the capacitor with the port in, so I took it back out, then I dropped it had to get a new one, then I did the capacitor next the port, when I was soldering a loose leg I knocked the cap off and soldered it to the legs of the port, then bridged a bunch of legs trying to get it off, so I took the port off again to clean up the legs of the HDMI port. Finally I said fuck it, I'm going to do it all at once, so I tinned everything, covered it with flux and used hot air on the back to reflow it all, and... it actually worked. See kids! It's easy! Soldering's fun!
Tip i learned for easy hdmi soldering.
Pre tin the pads
Also pre tin the pins
Enough flux
Place the connector.
Heat gun from below and press when the tin melts.
As if a machine did it for you.
(I say tin... I am Dutch)
Yep, exactly so, makes your life easier. Heat from below, just as you removed the connector. Makes sure the port doesn't melt, and you get a good bond on the grounding lugs. Don't even need to clean the holes that way.
29:20 The way to do that is to push the connector down and while holding it in position then solder the anchors on the top side. At the same time as pushing down, the hdmi pins will push up slightly since you put solder on the pads. This is good. Add flux. Now all you have to do is touch the iron to each pin and it will drop down and be automatically soldered. Then add more solder to the anchors on bottom side.
BTW, to steady your hand while doing smd work, put your wrist on the bench and pivot your hand left/right to position tweezers/parts. Don't try to do smd work with your hand flapping in the breeze because you will have innacurate part positioning.
Overall you did a pretty good job but that too-big resistor will haunt you with nightmares for life. If you don't have the correct size part take the correct size part off a Mac board (if available) as they are not much good for anything else, even when fully working ;-)
That "Jesus Wept" @ 5:17 Priceless in so many ways!!
Wow, how was that thing even partially functional?
I would recommend just using straight hot air when resoldering the pins on the port. As you experienced the tips are typically too big, whereas if you heat from the bottom of the board, it will melt those solder joints just the same, and the port will just sit in place naturally.
WoW I'm speechless that this PS5 even worked especially after The Blob (1958) Staring Steve McQueen Invaded that HDMI.
I truly thought this unit was toast.
But you were able to work a true Miracle and bring it back to life.🤗🥳
That's one lucky owner right there (a) because the PS5 is, as you say, pretty tough, & (b) because you have mastered the skills needed to assess it and to rescue it. Good outcome.
Nice repair lots of rebuilding the filters that you got what’s the part number or did you order them from?
What the "darn" indeed - they charged real money for that job?
Grip tape? Makes sense... We call it Hockey tape in Canada :XD
Funny how it means different things. Among my circle "grip tape" was the stuff you stuck on skateboards and stairs, lol. It's like a thin self adhesive asphalt shingle.
That looked kind of medieval repair attempt...
I can't imagine a shop doing this kind of job, my bet is that it was a DIY attempt or some friend that watched a YT video and thought he could do it with a 10$ soledring iron with a 20mm tip...
I agree - the story about another shop could simply have been an invention to hide the embarrassing truth!
This is insane. Good job in getting it functional for the customer though.
I couldn't help but laugh at the shakey hand incident =D Great job!
Yeah - I know that kind of incidents very well. You absolutely have to take a short break, because it gets more worse the longer you keep going. I am only glad that it does not happen too often. Even at my age (I am almost 70), my hands are steady enough to do that fine SMD work with tiny components. And indeed - He did a great job.
@@jclosed2516 Yes, it has happened to me!
One of your best videos yet. What an absolute mess but you worked through it methodically and it worked.
Nice dubbing 🤣You did well to get it working again. I haven't seen many in worse condition than this one.
If you get stuck with a big iron and need small one. Get some copper wire from a single core mains cable wrap it around the solder iron tip and leave a bit longer end cut clean the end use that. It won't last more one time use but should get you out of a tight spot.
When I was a kid I used plumber's solder to solder car speaker wires. I think it make them turn green, lol. I didn't even know there was different kinds of solder.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I was using plumbers flux for a while until I realized the error. Zinc based and conductive. Circuits weren’t working, components getting fried, electricity was arcing, I had no idea what was going on… as flux it worked AMAZINGLY though.
The problem is people see a video and think "I can do that easily", they then attempt a repair and it looks like this. I've got over 20 years of experience in repair but if I do something for the 1st time then I'm extremely careful and use the correct stuff for the job.
15:00 I think someone else said they're the same or compatible inductors with the ones on Nintendo Switch boards, so if you have any of those as donors, you don't have to order new ones.
Years ago I had to bin a multiport RS232 comm board from a machine control computer.
The machine was subjected to an overvoltage event finding its way to the (at the time) infamous RS232 interface chips.
A very proud electrician showed me how he had removed the chips, ready for socket mounting.
He managed to cut out the DIL chips, remove the pins and then use compressed air to clean the thru holes while the solder was hot.
The result was a PCB plastered with solder splatter and blops all over ...
The board was a disastrous mess, literally. Solder blops and splatter bridging just about anything on the board.
Tracks shorted out, plastic parts engraved with solder, solder bridges under larger components. Like the board had been dipped in hot solder.
I explained him this meant a new control board. I did not even want to try solder in sockets and test the board.
It looked like a very bad liquid metal disaster you see these days ...
Got to hand it to the other guy for successfully fitting an HDMI port with a blowtorch!
Dang was it a plumber working as a butcher ??? LOL loved it.. great video
Why does so many people not put pride in their work? Missing/stripped screws, not properly fitted, “chernobyl” repair etc. I mean, you’re working on other peoples stuff.
Very common in the UK, no pride and full of expensive cowboys
Actually quite astounding that it was even salvageable. "Plumbers" flux is usually an ammonium chloride based flux. On heat it becomes acidic, "eating" the surface of the copper pipes to clean them. It's virtually disastrous for circuit board, as the choride part continues corroding away traces and components. Oftimes requiring a water type washdown to remove it along with a good forced drying. You were super lucky it didn't go any further and ruin the board completely. I've seen it happen first-hand. I've been doing this for a LONG time now and some of the so-called attempted "repairs" have been brought in ended up being a no-fix due to the damages another person caused to the unit.
Have you tried using solder paste... never heard you mention it before, so perhaps it's not something you're aware of...? Great for small items both to hold in place and to solder with an iron.
That is astounding that it apparently worked, to some degree.
I remember the first repair job I did, it wss a DC jack on a laptop. I went out and bought a bunch of stuff, it was an investment though and that was a very simple job! I can't imagine looking at an HDMI port and thinking you could do this with a DIY heat gun and some plumbers flux...
I'm a big fan of the knife tip too, I know it's all preference but it just seems to be the most versatile for this type of work anyway.
are you using a Durgod keyboard? never seen anyone else using one. they make absolutely phenomenal keyboards. like, just by picking it up, the material and build quality is amazing. lol not to make this a plug. love your videos!
It's a Royal Kludge RK100, so chinese brand. Been really happy with it though. Only complaint is that the wireless range is kinda choppy.
@@Adamant_IT ah, I have a couple RKs too. I'd rank them probably just behind Durgod in all around quality. but it's hard to convey exactly what feels so good about the Dg ones but I want to say it's the material build quality. RK feel solid, no doubt about it but you could probably beat someone half to death with a Durgod and only lose 1 or 2 caps by the end of it haha.
pretty small Chinese company also so if you ever feel like a pleasant surprise, try reaching out to them. I bet theyd send you one to "review" lol
I've listened to your shop-talk (while I work) enough that I think you'd appreciate the same qualities that I do. cheers 🍻
This episode is very entertaining… so much brit humour… great times to watch it👍
Man, you have a nice sense of humor. I am a big fan of yours. You are super honest, you say what you think. That's what I like about you. You are also super talented in your job.
why don't use electric screw driver?
Because that is a sure way to strip either the screw heads or the screw holes. Just stop being lazy.
Electronics tend to use really shitty, soft screws for some reason. It's insanely easy to strip the head.
@@harshbarjI use an electric screwdriver on everything nowadays. Not a drill… an electric screwdriver, like pencil shaped. If the screw is stuck I break the seal manually then the rest of the way with the motor.
@@Joostinonline thats what the different modes are for. I use a nocry its so good and also can go up in torque rivalling a (very) cheap drill. That being said, I dont do any of that for a living and I use manual screwdrivers more often lol
They went wrong when they didnt keep trying untill they got the job done.
Always look forward to your videos, thanks, I like the work demonstrable.
I suspect that board will be constant headache with that flux , I think it will eat away between the laminated board .
JBC Micro Tweezers make these jobs are lot easier in my opinion, instead of having the risk of tiny components blowing away with hot air. Flux flux flux, use it first when tinning pads. I use Hakko main irons and use the micro pencil for most small stuff. Maybe JBC has something similar, although their prices can be a little obscene.
The fact you got this to POST! Almost a miracle
Superb soundtrack for the finishing touches 🎶
The new meta for these ports is to just heat up the underside with hot air and drop the new HDMI port on top and jiggle it a bit, and you are done. Safes you ton of time clearing ports etc. The only thing you need to do is pre tin the legs of the HDMI port beforehand.
I actually tried this yesterday on a rush-job that I wasn't filming, I can definitely see how it works, but I haven't mastered the trick to not damaging the new port with hot air. I need a 1000w station, my 600w Quick is too slow to get the joints flowing before the port plastic starts melting.
Definitely going to pre-tin the legs on the port at least though, as that solves the issue of not having enough solder on them, but also not wanting to add more solder and risk bridging everything into a mess.
Pure tension, great "wee" video tackling issues in miniature!
I always used plumbers stuff on my repairs
Opening that case reminded me of using the same "thump the side" method we used to open some, Brother, electronic typewriters back when they were a thing. Please don't think of how old I must be. I suspect many of your viewers wont ever have seen one.
Honestly, on first glance, I wouldn't have even tried to fix that mess. Well done for succeeding.
What a bodge job, well done you made it look pretty again 😊
Those Inductors look fun...lol
Excellent repair as always. You are far too modest about your skill. You mentioned Paul Daniels: have you seen his latest video about a very dodgy Macbook?
So they solder-bridged all the data pins LMAO
Why do you hate flux? You are using way too low especially when tinning pads. Also low quantities tend to burn faster leaving a messy job. Also, using an optical stereo microscope will definitely improve the quality of the job
reuse and clean up the liquid metal 100% no issues. The flux you are using appears to be trash. Try a different brand may help. Congrats on the successful repair. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I'm sure you are asked this all the time, but do you ever tell your customers to watch their repair on your channel? I'm sure some would find it fascinating. They would probably cry after seeing the condition the last shop left their PS5 in. Nice fix!
Unbelievable!?! Great save lad!!
Graham, you are a genius mate... your skill levels are excellent.
4:08 soldering with a paint stripper 101
Great work as always Graham.
Excellent repair work.
When I saw that HDMI port, NGL I also lost my shit... dying from laughter at your reaction! I'd react the same if I found out someone attacked a motherboard with a hacksaw and glue. Good job on the repair nonetheless.
I did a usb c connector on the end of the psvr2 cable last week, i often wonder why they make it that small because I wouldn’t mind a bigger sturdier connection for something like that, anyway 24-pin usb c is a real pain to solder and since there is logic in the end of the cable it was the only way
Also I don’t have quite the right tools for it so im really glad i got it working in the end
You should really buy a smaller solder tip for these jobs.
You really should have taken the last hdmi filter off, and refreshed the solder pads. As it stands, plumbers flux could be eating away at the solder joints on it.
Did they use a blow touch to solder with, what was the heat source och!
Didn't the flux fked up the board internal layers?
Think maybe ya need to lay off the caffeine Greg 😂😂😂 lol
beautiful work
Great job. You might have more luck attaching small SMD parts with a fine tip soldering iron after flattening the pads using Mr. Solderfix's technique, avoids the risk of them blowing away.
I don't think that port worked at all. Maybe the customer atempted to "repair" it themself and messed up and gladfully brought it to you then.
Thanks
There is no way that ever worked the way it looked. Lol
Wow that was a shocking attempt at a repair. Quite how that functioned at all is a mystery 😮
With the liquid metal thing, I see quite a lot of other tech repairers reuse all the time. They are typically more concerned with dry spots.
That's good to know. I do spread it out again to avoid the dry spots - those are definitely killers!
Any reason you are not using an electrical screwdriver?
The solder you are using doesn't seen to "behave" the same way I see in other repair channels. Almost looks like lead free... Is that it?
If not have you tried other brands / alloys. The most common leaded solder alloys are (Tin/Lead/Silver) 63/37, 62/36/2, 60/40, 50/50 and 40/60. Idk with one is better.
Could also be the flux issue.
It really really worries me that PCBs are by now right on the giddy edge of being impossible to work on by hand, and another few years might see this switch to needing robotics as used for surgery!
I’m hoping the laws of electricity and physics don’t allow it to get much smaller lol. We have to be reaching the max with the materials we are using nowadays.
@@chrisgr00ver It's really down to ability of pick and place machines and behaviour of solder.
Tell me, did the interrogator get the information from the board that he wanted? Because he didn't mess about while he was torturing it!
Yes, it looks like they used plumber solder that’s a lot of heavy flux never use plumbers solder or flux if they left that on their long enough it would’ve destroyed the circuit board that would’ve went green & corrode the plumber solder and flux is too heavy for it
Got to get the right tool for the right job had to redo all pads to my ps5 cause I didn’t have the right tools lesson learned
Come on be fair, Its Stevie Wonder's first PS5 repair.
It did well for all the plumbing - it will also do for the PS5. What could go wrong ?
were the three new inductors bigger than the original because of just been another make ?
Different make. Most likely a common value, I bought ones advertised as 'for PS5' but another commenter mentioned that the Switch uses the same ones.
It's not that it was attempted by someone who was under prepapred and way out of their depth, the problem is that your customer was, presumably, charged for it.
That dry spot on the APU is probably the worst I've seen on a PS5
P.S- Reusing liquid metal should be fine but I would rub the whole chip with a cue-tip thoroughly do undo the corrosion
Plumber's flux is acid based. It'll eat the PC board material.
Electric screwdriver might help with those annoying screws.
That would be wonderful due to how many there are - but it'd need to be fairly beefy. More like one of the small power tool looking ones than the quick electronic ones I have.
You only have the owners word that someone else had a look at this first... It could well have been the owner? Either way, brave of you to take the job on. Nice fix.
Nice job Graham!
awesome fix
Looks like a bird pooped on it...
"Shop"? this was a broken DIY HDMI port swap.
No offense... watching this made me appreciate people like Northridge Fix and others' skills even more. But also remember that even us humans can fix things, since it worked.
I'd bet 10 to 1 the guy with the "demonstrable level of inexperience" is your customer. :)
What is song called from 28:00 minutes on wards?
I can't solder, and even i would do better than that ..
Plumbers flux and a blowtorch?
How is it that you are not using an electric screwdriver in this vid? Is this older video uploaded just recently?
These screws need a lot of force to undo, my little electric screwdriver doesn't have the grunt for them. You'd need a much beefier one.
I could start it off manually, but with screws this tough, it puts a lot of stress on the gearbox and knackers it if you do it all the time.
You mean you dont use a pipe wrench to fix your PCs??
LTT Screwdriver man... use one. :)
For most other things I do/fix, the LTT screwdriver is colossal overkill in a 'you could bought an entire set of Weras for this...' kind of way, but unironically it would be perfect for this specific job.
djeez that looks so bad .... Who would do that anyway? Nice Fix!
ohh.. it looks ok to me!
Get an LTT screwdriver 😁
What do you even charge for something like this? I have no idea what these parts cost, but I feel like with all the work you did it's half the cost of the console at least.