For a smooth flat finish, depending on the material, I brush the surface with a bit of acetone and laying it flat on a piece of glass for a few minutes.
I was using the generic Aliexpress versions on 3 of my printers (A1, A1 Mini, K1) for a month before Bambu released theirs. If anyone wants one of those instead, the search term to use is "PEZ" or "Polyurea". Biqu's Cryogrip is also an option. Might as well get the Bambu version, because they're not more expensive than the generic, but it's the only way to get them for non-Bambu printers at the moment
Thank you. This is good info. These build plates use polyurea coatings (similar to industrial coatings and those used for garage floors). One vendor says: "A must-have for Farmers" (sic).
"Might as well get the Bambu version . . . " Yeah, but the Biqus are blue ! And blue looks cool, and I suspect once in place the cool new blue look will attract women and win the respect of work colleagues and the admiration of friends. I won't be surprised if I'm married by the end of the year. *I currently live alone.
Got one last week and I must say it grips very well. Printed both Elegoo Rapid PETG and Bambu PETG HF. Took a bit to get used to as it has actually ripped pieces off the bottom of two prints printed in the P1S. Will give it a test on the A1 with a large print as I was having warping issues with PLA. I think it will pass the test. I'm going to order a couple more once they are back in stock.
I’ve been using ones from SliceWorx for months now. They released plates like these ages ago. Lots of different plates for different printers too. Used it to print a ton of mini license plates for Maker Faire OC and 3DPrintopia. People were shocked to find out the fronts of their plates were the bottom layer.
I just started using the super tack plate a couple days ago, mostly with PETG. It sticks too well at their stock setting of 70° (same as textured and smooth PEI), but since they list 45° as the ideal PLA temp on the super tack, I tried 60 for PETG which also stuck too well, so I set it to 55. I tried 50, but the corners of my print curled up, so I’ve left it at 55. But honestly it’s such a chore to remove prints from that plate, I prefer smooth PEI with Vision Miner NPA. Prints stick like nobody’s business, but release super easy. I try to only use it when I’m concerned about part adhesion, but it’s just so foolproof that I find myself using it more and more just to ensure perfect adhesion and easy print release.
I've had PETG stick so hard to textured PEI that I thought they might be permanently attached. When it finally got it off it took several chunks of the PEI off the plate.
Didn't even make it to 4 minutes before my big mouth had to say this about glue residue. I use the vision miner stuff and just discovered that using a great fun takes away the white scurge. I'm so happy. ASA looks fantastic.
I've been tempted by all these new plates (bambu and biqu), but really I haven't had any issues with the gold textured PEI plates on my A1 and A1 mini printers. Just a quick wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol before every print and everything sticks fine. I do only print with PLA, PETG and TPU though, but all of those have worked out fine.
I print almost exclusively in PETG and have been using the engineering plate with zero issues. I wash it with warm water then put the liquid glue on it every so often, and have only had a couple bed adhesion issues when it's a really small footprint. In those rare cases setting up a larger brim takes care of it. I am interested in trying the Super Tack plate, so I think I will order one of those.
I do the same with the engineering plate. The supertack is exceptional though. So glad I purchased it because I was contemplating it and 5 minutes after I ordered it was sold out. Still is.
I always hear about petg adhesion issues. I never use glue, i actually prefer a dirty plate because if its freshly cleaned, that PETG isnt letting go to nearly print breakage
At timestamp 7:36 you can see (it appears) the sheet is lifting from the Heated bed. Usually indicating the magnets are not strong enough to overcome the part warping. They are not the only company to do this, but I guarantee they wont address it. But rather offer a sale. :) Nice vid though, keep 'em coming . Sorry to nitpick. You can check the flatness of the parts after to confirm.
@dylanevans5644 agreed, but with clips you lose bed space and risk collision with the nozzle. And still will create an air gap between the magnetic area and the clip, if there is enough force, right?
@@NathanDavidDodd Depends how strong the clips is! Most of those problems can be overcome by putting the clips in the right place. Certainly it's not a perfect solution, but it's just about the best compromise. You can find super thick, or even glass beds, but they have many compromises of their own.
I use regulair painterstape over the edges on my printers when this starts to happen. It starts to get more and more when the magnets get weaker because of the heating at higher temps. On some beds/printers you can not even go above 70-65 degrees before this starts to happen fast.
That’s why I like the Smooth PEI plate. It’s thicker than the normal plates so hold to the magnets stronger. I used to get PC lifting the build plate off the magnet but not with the thicker Smooth PEI.
I started off with the textured pei build plate, but gave up on it for the most part after I couldn't get ASA to stick to it even with a glue stick. I'm very much a fan of their smooth plate. Never had any adhesion issues with it. Plus, using a plastic razor blade to scrape up the calibration/purge lines is much more satisfying than on the textured plate.
You need the liquid glue not glue stick for asa. 110deg c and clean the plate with hot soapy water then a thin layer of the liquid glue. Print asa nearly exclusively with zero issue and no need for any brims @pailpardee.
I mostly print ASA and textured plates are definitely not ideal. I don't even use glue anymore on my smooth plates but I found glue stick is just not very reliable with it. If need you glue I'd try a liquid glue or even cheap pump hairpray.
To help with the build plate alignment on the X1, I've been using a Shifty build plate guide (a model that snaps onto the alignment lug and does magic to align the plate). I've gone since launch without one until last month... now I wonder how I lived without it.
I second using a snap-on guide. Makes it much easier to get the plate aligned correctly. Another thing Bambu should be adding to their list for improvements to future printers.
I got the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier purely because it can be wiped down with rubbing alcohol. It doesn't have the lower bed temps, and isn't quite as sticky (though somewhat more sticky than any other plate I've used, textured included). The material seems softer at least with the cleaning area where the nozzle scrapes, so maybe it'll have a shorter shelf life but so far so good and I'm exited for this new wave of much better plates.This version also works with a wider variety of filaments.
;) jep, can proudly say i have a profile for flashforge "standard" petg and a printerprofile for those cheap pey sheet. i just use 99% iso and fresh paper towel (lint free type) every 8-12 printhours. it sticks so good that i have to wait for the plate to cool to 35-40c before it must be flexed off. i have have a few fails while dailing in the temps where it ripped the surface with it! running this setup for about 400 hours now with 0 problem. it stick so good i can swing the model and plate around even with big models with small surface contact ;) the temp is 80c for smooth pei in the slicer and 260c firstlayer @ 33/44 mms. enjoy the fruits of my labor pls
With PETG I mostly use the smooth PEI/HighTemp plate bare (clean with alcohol, no glue, etc) Same with the textured plate. Bed adhesion has always been excellent. In general if I have adhesion issues I don't put anything on and it always seem to be better.
I even do the same with ASA/ABS, which is my primary material. The trick I found is using a dab of acetone on a microfiber cloth to clean smooth PEI instead of alcohol. I eventually noticed IPA can actually leave a slight residue which normally doesn't matter but with ABS the difference was night and day. Dawn soap/water is the next best option. I put WhamBam's PEX on my main printer a couple of months ago and also liking a lot. Similar to PEI but seems even easier to work with. Oddly, only time I had to resort to a little hairspray/glue recently was to stop some TPU covers from slightly lifting the corners.
OK I learned something. I had been thinking that I always printed PETG at 75C on my Prusa MK4's (textured powder coated plate) and when you said you couldn't always get your prints to stick I was about to really question what you were doing wrong as I never get failures and I really respect your design processes. A quick check and surprise I'm printing at 90C. I'm thinking that Prusa must have changed the default behind my back. LOL.
I’m always a bit confused by other people’s practices around bed adhesion. I’ve found clean textured pei to work fantastic with pla as long as it’s cleaned properly. And hairspray has worked great with petg in the past but I haven’t used it in awhile. I really want a g10 on steel sheet. I had g10 for my old cr10 and it worked great for everything I needed. Including flexibles and the texture is really nice.
I’ve been doing some multicolor coasters using a dual color silk pla for the accent color. I’m a big fan of the textured plate for this. The texture gives little peaks and valleys that show off the dual color really well.
I disagree about the engineering plate. It's my go-to plate for ASA and ABS, because it works incredibly well with both. As for your trouble with glue, I highly recommend spreading your glue on with a couple sprays of IPA. The glue dissolves in IPA, so if you apply a few swipes and spray it with IPA and wipe down, you get a super thin perfect layer of glue that is much easier to work with and leaves much less residue.
Fully agree with you about the Engineering plate. I almost exclusively print ASA (100 degrees bed temp and no glue) and TPU (generic TPU profile). I have no issues that weren't of my own making. I'll need to find a good replacement for the engineering plate now it's been discontinued.
I feel like every few years we get a 3D Printer company having a go with a PEX/PEZ build plate under a fancy name and every few years it vanishes when people realise they'd rather have one failure in 100 prints than spending three days removing that tiny bit of filament that has inexplicably bonded to the plate - That and it's not "go to" as Bambu seem to be calling it, you can't reliably use it for PA12, PC or most other materials that hate that coating - It's GREAT for PLA - nothing else except maybe PETG. It's always better to have the print bed specialised for the material, there is no one size fits all. Flashforge went 8 years shipping printers with textured PEZ because for a very long time they were considered the go to for beginner printers, even they have stopped shipping it. I don't know how long you've been printing for but there used to be a certain tape we all printed on coated in PEZ, when was the last time someone printed on tape - it really is a blast from the past. There really is a good reason every printer comes with a PEI sheet now
I'm using whambam's smooth PEX right now and it has been great for ASA/ABS but I don't tend to have issues with smooth PEI either. I rarely use glue unless it's a really sketchy geometry.
PLA sticks like whoa. I would say too well because sometimes I feel like I am going to break a print trying to pry it off when I print small things like Zou3D models. I had a friend tell me to stick it in the freezer to get it to release those little models and in my experience that does not help. I'm actually looking forward to when my plate gets a little worn in where it sticks less well. FYI I have had small PETG models lift on corners, even at 80c, on my A1 using this plate. My X1C doesn't have this problem with this plate so there is still an issue with open air bed slingers and PETG which I have come to understand is a thing with my A1. Don't forget you aren't supposed to use IPA or any chemicals on the plate. Just soap and water occasionally.
Bed adhesion is one thing but then supports will brake if large part. The solution is to use cold bed, put PETG plate 2mm like Vivak using double side tape and allow this plate to gradually bent. So I think that vacuum bed should be tested if allow slight bend using many small holes.
I installed a build plate guide on the left rear of my X1C. It sticks up enough that you can easily position the plate side to side with it angled up enough that the magnets don't grab it. The guide is low enough that it doesn't interfere with the print head. I found it on MakerWorld.
That looks super interesting. I remember years ago when LocBuild made a super adhesive bed for 3D Printers. For parts that had low bed contact - great. For large stuff like your model, it fused to the bed. I’m looking forward to trying g that plate on my two A1’s
Ah, this is what people were talking about when they said this is why biqu did the buy one get one free deal. I bought the biqu 2f1 deal, haven't tried them yet, lol, so I guess this will be even further down the stack. But I'd been using the original PEI textured plate from bambu (the grey one that came with the x1c) for ages, then finally bought the new gold coloured textured plates, and I found the gold texture plate holds on to PETG too well. Thanks for the tip of reducing temp to reduce grip, I will need to try that.
I would have bought one for the X1C and one for the A1 mini, but they are never in stock. And when I get a mail, then I go to the store and boom, they're gone already :)
@@liamosterhout6538 YES ... Great advance in 3D printing as far as I am concerned, but I have not fully tested it at this point. I will post any problems (if any) when encountered...
I’m pretty happy with the supertack plate so far. I still had curling with PLA before I washed it with Dawn. The high temp plate is still my go-to for smooth surfaces. If you wash the high temp plate with Dawn and scrub it with a red Scotchbrite pad while it’s soapy, it has an almost 100% success rate for me. Bambu says you can sand the plate with 600 grit to increase adhesion but it’s not really noted anywhere aside from a single line of text at the bottom of the store page for the build plate. I’m glad I’m not alone in having trouble positioning it. It feels like it’s almost too wide to fit between the locating pins in the X1C.
Ordering it right now. Looks awesome. (UPDATE: Out of stock till Dec 3. Hahahhahaha. Dang it.) I have only had my Bambu A1 for a few weeks and haven't had adhesion issues but what the heck. I only have 2 plates, the PEI and the shiny smooth. Dang thing is only $15 bucks! I just wish I had known about it when I placed an order for the .2mm nozzle... 2 days ago, dangit.
I used to go for the high temp smooth PEI plate for PLA, textured (black) PEI for PETG and TPU, engineering plate with liquid glue for ABS/ASA. And the old cool plate with liquid glue for particularly demanding PLA prints. Now I just print it all on the textured (gold) PEI plate, PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, no glue. And if I worry about a corner prone to curling, I add mouse ear brims. I really think of it as the one plate to rule them all, but I might pick up a supertack plate next time I order.
Im really enjoying this latest character arc that you are developing through the last few videos, much more sarcastic and seemingly fed up with the "armchair experts " 😂😂 Once again great video! Thankyou
Yes.... I use a flat steel plate and PVA glue. Sometimes they stick too well and I have to soak the plate and glue in water to get the parts off the plate
The only plate you're missing is a custom Clough42 textured plate 😉 also I've found the engineering plate had better adhesion to Nylon but that's about the only time i would use it versus textured pei.
I use Lightyear G10 (garolite) plates with PPA-CF and PA6-CF. PPA-CF doesn't need any kind of adhesive on that plate and it keeps a perfectly flat bottom.
I haven't tried the Bambu plate. However, I do reviews on Amazon for new products which Amazon provides. I recently received a build plate for an A1 Mini that looks and works like the Bambu plate. It has the brand name Yoopai and is called their Epoxy Resin plate. It too is super sticky, infact at times too sticky. After seeing the Bambu plate I started printing the Yoopai with the Super Tack settings and have had great success. The A1 Mini plate is $9.99. I bought the same plate for my P1S and both have become my go to plates. I have only used them with Bambu PLA Basic but really like the results. The texture of the plates sounds much the same, and the Yoopai plate is also difficult to place correctly on my P1S. If anyone does a comparison I would like to hear their thoughts.
Hah, I do reviews on Amazon for products as well in the UK, just put it in my wish list as it's only available as a USA import at the moment. Fingers crossed 😉
@@JJFX- A few times actually as they have been really bad, I had a power bank and the battery swelled and cracked the case, and a few items that have fallen apart after first use. 4 is my normal rating, 5 if it's really good quality and the price is OK and 3 if it's OK quality wise but is not quite what the description says it is, like today, a well made ratcheting screwdriver that does not actually ratchet. Not sure if it's the same in the USA but I'm amazed that some reviewers give 5 stars in every review even though it's a POS and some that obviously have not used the item as they get so many things wrong, and don't get me started on the 5 word reviews.🤬
@@thegrumpygamer3081 Glad to hear it. I'm asking because I've grown so tired of Amazon and how easily listings and reviews still get manipulated. I rarely see free product reviewers leave more than an occasional critical review so I'm curious if you think doing that frequently would affect being in the program or how often they send products.
Im a firm believer in cleaning is key! And dawn is NOT it. I use fast orange mechanics soap with pumice and an old toothbrush. Scrub the plate with the soap and brush without water. Then clean with hot water, as hot as your water heater can do. And you can instantly feel it with your hands. I haven’t used glue since and have never had one come undone. Edit: i forgot to add. Let the plate cool makes a HUGE difference when removing. I freaking love the engineering plate. But i would like to try this bc id like an extra plate
Wanted to let you know it says X1 comparable plates will be back in stock Dec 3rd. I did the “notify me when available thing”. I hope there’s a way for you to still get affiliate credit for my purchase when it’s available. Might be something you want to check on as I’m sure the traffic you generate from the video will reduce after a couple days, and it seems unfair for you to not receive compensation for all attempts to purchase while it’s “out of stock”. Update: I just realized I can just come back to video and click on link again when it’s back in stock. I encourage others to do the same. Saving your link in my calendar for Dec. 3rd.
For my PLA prints, I use the stock X1C cold plate. To drastically improve adhesion, I did something that worked wonders for me. Here's the process: Clean the plate with water to remove surface dust and debris. The trick: I rubbed the plate down with silicon carbide powder + water by creating a slurry (around 2000 grit). This step made all the difference, even restoring adhesion after handling the plate with oily fingers or using poor-quality isopropyl alcohol. This method worked so well that it made my adhesion way better than stock. I shared this tip on the 3D printing subreddit, but the post was removed for being flagged as a "potentially hazardous tutorial." Oh well.... Damn mods.
Bought two of these the second I saw something about it and I can articulate the same thing, the adhesion is just unmatched and incredible but a little too much sometimes, sorta depends on preference but it’s my go-to plate now for my mini and P1S
I use a glass bed with any kind of filement and a mixture of 50% white glue/school glue and 50% water. Everything sticks like hell with around 50-60 degree C and pops right off when the plate cools down. It is washable with warm water without leaving any traces. A printbed for eternity.
I already have a large selection of build plates and cant say I have had any major issues with bed adhesion or warping, yeah I have had the odd part come loose but I managed to fix that with the next try. I still have some OG Coolplate stickers to get through also!
That's very impressive! Thanks James. I hope I can track one down that will fit my Ender 3 S1 Pro, these look either a little too small or a little to large. I'm guessing that cutting one down isn't an option?
I have a A1 mini and print mostly with PLA basic and PETG-HF using the PEI plate. I wash the plate with dishsoap and a toothbrush once evry 5-10 prints and never had any issue of the part not sticking (mostly enclosures for various things) with the standard setup from the slicer. Even sometimes, some part are a bit too sticky.
My goto plates have been the cool plate when I need PLA with as smooth as possible bottom surface or tiny parts (although this new plate looks better), the textured PEI plate for most of my printing (PLA, PETG) because it doesn't need glue. But then for most other filaments I just use the engineering plate, it with some glue stick has worked for pretty much all filaments I have tried, nylon, PET, PC, even some PP. If the engineering plate doesn't work then I will generally try the high temp plate but I don't like it because it is just a thin sticker. I am really considering getting the new supertack plate and the smooth PEI plate though because they will probably solve all my complaints about the current plates, like the cool plate needing glue and the high temp plate just being a thin sticker.
I was also having trouble with PETG adhesion with textured PEI, until I cranked up the bed temp to 80C, and now its working perfectly (on my horrifying UM2 clone). Maybe that's worth a try for when you want the texture.
Damn, now I want one of these Bambu Coolplate SuperTack buildplates. Guess that means I need to buy a Bambu Coolplate SuperTack compatible 3D printer too 🤭Good thing that Corporate Greed Day (I mean Black Friday) is 2 days ago so I still have 363 days to think about this 😁
My main gripe with bambu textured pei buildplates or others like the biqu cryogrip (I use both) is not adhesion. It is the thickness of the spring steel. I print plenty of large parts that has perfect adhesion but the plate still bends around the outer edge due to being too flimsy. The magnetic force is not enough. For more damanding tool type prints I have been forced to glue shape cut plates to the underside of bambu buildplates to avoid warping. I am surprised thicker buildplates never seem to be on the table. I have at least googled for it many times in the past.
I coated my PEI plate in watered down PVA (left to dry) the other day in order to get light weight PLA to stick. It's PITA and just won't stick otherwise.
Its amazing how far we came along in terms of build plates on FFF 3d printers ! i recently upgraded my printrbot metal bed from Glass to PEI for PET filament . if on the glass plate i always needed glue to have the print stick on the PEI texture plate i don't use any glue ! Really curious about this Bambu Lab SuperTack ! you mention it works well with PETG but what about PET ?
For me generally (all types of prints) it's textured for PETG and smooth for PLA. I hardly ever use any other filaments though so I'm perhaps no the best example. I do have misprints ocasionally but not too often.
Thank you for making this video. I have been surprised at the lack of videos for this product. I really appreciate that you made it short and simple and showed what kind of texture it leaves. Thank you.
This may be an odd question, how would you recommend cutting this plate?, I have a Voron V0 and this could be a nice plate for that machine. With an angle grinder I would be worried it would gum up while cutting through the build surface. Great video and great review!
This supertac plate currently does not work with the X1C. The X1 cant read the code on the plate and the printer throws an error. Not sure why it can't read it, maybe it needs an update in order to understand the code but I suspect the problem is that the printing on the plate does not have enough contrast with the coating. During the time when the error pops up and you tell it to ignore the error the nozzle oozes some plastic and the printer does not put down the first layer properly. And it lifts and you get spaghetti. I have read that you can turn off the plate detection but I don't have any desire to do that. I paid extra for this printer to help keep me from making mistakes. I suspect that this is only a problem on the X1C because none of the other models verify that the plate is what you specified when you sliced it. My printer came with the gold textured plate which is fantastic! I also have the smooth plate which is currently my favorite. I have been looking for the discontinued cool plate and engineering plates because I have a friend who likes both of them. Both of us get this build plate ID error with the supertac plate and it also appears to be a common issue on the facebook group.
Same thing just happened to me. I thought I would be able to just use the plate and select it in the slicer and all would be good, but the same failure occurred. After doing a search on the Bambu wiki, it specifically says you have to turn off build plate detection for the X1C or failure will occur. That would have been good to know before purchasing it, but that info is near the way bottom of the product page so my fault for not catching that.
Your intro: If you're doing a whole video on hot plates, especially with a thumbnail of a print with that much overhang, then HECK YES. I'm here to learn, and you're entertaining as well 👍
i'm generally printing Printer parts out of ABS/ASA, and my goto has been , and will probably continue to be the engineering plate. the textured plate is a bit too textured for mating surfaces ive found, and the smooth/hi temp plate give a glossy approaching mirror finish which looks real wierd when its only on one face of the print. in fact, i've been having to put glue on my engineering plate just to get parts off the plate or they stick too well and take a chunk out of whatever epoxy-esque finish they used for the engineering plate.
I bought the Super Tack for my P1S, it is really great for lots of small parts all at once. Maybe my gold texture plate is just warn out but I struggle with it on the those prints with lost of small parts prints. Does the texture plate wear out??
I have a very large printing job i plan to use all bambu filament ill use your link to buy them from now on hope you get some lol planning to get over $2k
I don't understand, why would they boast about having the bottom surface of the part look like the top surface? Who would want that? The bottom surface always looks a lot better regardless of the build plate, unless your Z-offset isn't set correctly or the mesh leveling is off.
Looks good though a little too sticky for me. I have never tried the toaster as it takes too long to print and I am impatient. And of course I do not own a Bamboo lab printer that can print at faster speeds. I was surprised at how cheap the build plate is.
If you are using glue stick or liquid glue, does it even matter what the build plate material is? It seems like the print would then be sticking to the glue, not the plate. Does it matter if it’s PEI, or glass, or even just a piece of spring steel with no coating at all? I always thought the whole reason to use PEI was so I DID NOT have to use messy adhesion aids like glue stick! I’m current.y running a PEI flex plate, but for PLA the best adhesion I ever had was to the glass plate that came with my Ender 3V2 - I kept a little hammer around to give parts a wack to release them from the glass plate and a scraper with those orange plastic blades for thinner parts that were too short to wack. And that was at 40 degree bed temp! PS: I really miss wacking parts to get them off - so does the cat who loved to chase the ones that came off a bit too well!
Cool plate, now I have a dilemma... whether to buy SuperTack or BIQU Panda BuildPlate CryoGrip? Did you see BIQU Panda CryoGrip (Frostbite/Glacier)? What do you think? Thanks for video, when i choose from Bambu i will buy it from ur link ;)
I purchased one of each size as soon as first review hit youtube. Since you're in contact with Bambu, have they mentioned how they recommend cleaning it? TYIA
It won’t. Because you can’t use abs on it. It’s ONLY for Pla and PETG. No other material. Look up biqu’s plates. They have a version of this that works with abs.
One thing that is so weird is that people are trashing this plate on BBL’s social media calling it a copycat of the Biqu Glacier; which A it’s not at all (I have both) and B even if it was, no one else should make PEI plates because one company does? Lol
Dang it...I literally just ordered a replacement smooth PEI plate and some filament from Bambu Lab like a week ago. Looks like I'll be needing to go back for another order.
Ive had good luck with smooth pei for pla, abs, and asa, textured pei for petg only, and g10 for polycarbonate and nylon. Textured pei is a no from me for anything except petg, I cant get it to stick with abs or asa at all, but clean smooth pei with abs or pla will absolutely do that torture test with no issues, for me. Beds must be clean, no glue, spray, release agent, nano hyper gloop, or other mystical $30 bottle of whatever, just clean and dry, without any fingerprints. Maybe scrub the smooth pei with a scotchbrite pad every now and then as it gets shined up with use.
@riba2233 weird, mine is completely useless for it. Different pei, or different abs or something else maybe. Im not really a huge fan of the texture from textured pei anyway.
I had for a week already haven't tried it yet, I scared to print PETG on ti that it will stick too well :D You can see at 7:34 that the print is lifting the plate up slightly
Most important question not answered 😬How many prints does it do before this amazing adhesion stops to perform. As with any advanced textured surface with high adhesions 1 of 2 things will happen, either micro bits of plastic will ramain on the buildplate, or micro bits of the build plate will remain on the printed part. And once the build plate is clogged up with micro plastic, its done. Or once the entiry magic layer of the surface is distributed over printed parts, it's done.
While I can't come close to justifying a K2 Plus, this looks like an awesome upgrade for the P1P. Bambu Lab's ingenuity has never ceased amaze me. Thanks for sharing this little marvel.
I've been having poor results with the SuperTack build plates on my P1S. Lots of warping on the edges, hardly any adhession. I just can't figure out why. I've been using PETG HF. My textured PEI plates on the other hand have no issues, to the point where I use a glue stick as a release agent or else there's risk of part damage.
will it work on my ender? I don't exactly have bamboo money for what little I use my printer for (I mean trust me when I need it I use the hell out of it, I just don't need it that often)
Depends on sizing I think, but it probably will you’ll just have to look at what movements you have for printing and where stuff prints and of course leveling difference
Buy a third party version of this made for your printer specifically. Cool Plate Super Tack (what a silly long name) is just their name for a new material a few companies are selling plates with now. The Biqu/Bigtreetech Glacier plates are probably what you want.
This is not the experience I have had with the supertak buildplate. For me, the smooth plate seems to work wayyy better. After seeing that toaster print, I may revisit it.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
maybe i'm the one wierdo, but I actually preferred the first example of your logo with the clear CNC path look inside the letter faces.
Yeah... It's growing on me, too.
Not weird. I like it too
Consider it a testament to a good print on a fine tuned printer - the hallmark of a true designer/engineer. Like weld marks or carbon fiber pattern.
For a smooth flat finish, depending on the material, I brush the surface with a bit of acetone and laying it flat on a piece of glass for a few minutes.
@ that sounds pretty sexy is the result uniform each time? And is it just a few light strokes of the brush just to get it visibly wet?
I was using the generic Aliexpress versions on 3 of my printers (A1, A1 Mini, K1) for a month before Bambu released theirs. If anyone wants one of those instead, the search term to use is "PEZ" or "Polyurea". Biqu's Cryogrip is also an option. Might as well get the Bambu version, because they're not more expensive than the generic, but it's the only way to get them for non-Bambu printers at the moment
None for Prusa printers yet.
Thank you. This is good info.
These build plates use polyurea coatings (similar to industrial coatings and those used for garage floors).
One vendor says: "A must-have for Farmers" (sic).
Any for the voron 350?
"Might as well get the Bambu version . . . "
Yeah, but the Biqus are blue ! And blue looks cool, and I suspect once in place the cool new blue look will attract women and win the respect of work colleagues and the admiration of friends. I won't be surprised if I'm married by the end of the year.
*I currently live alone.
@@davelordy Got the Cryoplate. Id preffer the gray bambu version but it wasn't available at the time. I can tell you that... my wife loves it.
I've been using the Biqu CryoGrip for a few months and the Bambu textured pei plate never ever gets used since they are a game changer.
Got one last week and I must say it grips very well. Printed both Elegoo Rapid PETG and Bambu PETG HF. Took a bit to get used to as it has actually ripped pieces off the bottom of two prints printed in the P1S. Will give it a test on the A1 with a large print as I was having warping issues with PLA. I think it will pass the test. I'm going to order a couple more once they are back in stock.
I’ve been using ones from SliceWorx for months now. They released plates like these ages ago. Lots of different plates for different printers too. Used it to print a ton of mini license plates for Maker Faire OC and 3DPrintopia. People were shocked to find out the fronts of their plates were the bottom layer.
I just started using the super tack plate a couple days ago, mostly with PETG. It sticks too well at their stock setting of 70° (same as textured and smooth PEI), but since they list 45° as the ideal PLA temp on the super tack, I tried 60 for PETG which also stuck too well, so I set it to 55. I tried 50, but the corners of my print curled up, so I’ve left it at 55. But honestly it’s such a chore to remove prints from that plate, I prefer smooth PEI with Vision Miner NPA. Prints stick like nobody’s business, but release super easy. I try to only use it when I’m concerned about part adhesion, but it’s just so foolproof that I find myself using it more and more just to ensure perfect adhesion and easy print release.
If you're using the textured pei plate with PETG don't use glue. It sticks great but comes straight off with a slight flex. PETG sticks so well
I've had PETG stick so hard to textured PEI that I thought they might be permanently attached. When it finally got it off it took several chunks of the PEI off the plate.
Didn't even make it to 4 minutes before my big mouth had to say this about glue residue. I use the vision miner stuff and just discovered that using a great fun takes away the white scurge. I'm so happy. ASA looks fantastic.
I've been tempted by all these new plates (bambu and biqu), but really I haven't had any issues with the gold textured PEI plates on my A1 and A1 mini printers. Just a quick wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol before every print and everything sticks fine. I do only print with PLA, PETG and TPU though, but all of those have worked out fine.
I print almost exclusively in PETG and have been using the engineering plate with zero issues. I wash it with warm water then put the liquid glue on it every so often, and have only had a couple bed adhesion issues when it's a really small footprint. In those rare cases setting up a larger brim takes care of it. I am interested in trying the Super Tack plate, so I think I will order one of those.
I’m interested in that super tack. It’s sold out right now.
I do the same with the engineering plate. The supertack is exceptional though. So glad I purchased it because I was contemplating it and 5 minutes after I ordered it was sold out. Still is.
I always hear about petg adhesion issues. I never use glue, i actually prefer a dirty plate because if its freshly cleaned, that PETG isnt letting go to nearly print breakage
@@GucciBodyBags Depends on the plate really. What plate are you using?
At timestamp 7:36 you can see (it appears) the sheet is lifting from the Heated bed. Usually indicating the magnets are not strong enough to overcome the part warping. They are not the only company to do this, but I guarantee they wont address it. But rather offer a sale. :) Nice vid though, keep 'em coming . Sorry to nitpick. You can check the flatness of the parts after to confirm.
Yea, I spotted that too. You can get clips to overcome the issue.
@dylanevans5644 agreed, but with clips you lose bed space and risk collision with the nozzle. And still will create an air gap between the magnetic area and the clip, if there is enough force, right?
@@NathanDavidDodd
Depends how strong the clips is! Most of those problems can be overcome by putting the clips in the right place. Certainly it's not a perfect solution, but it's just about the best compromise. You can find super thick, or even glass beds, but they have many compromises of their own.
I use regulair painterstape over the edges on my printers when this starts to happen. It starts to get more and more when the magnets get weaker because of the heating at higher temps. On some beds/printers you can not even go above 70-65 degrees before this starts to happen fast.
That’s why I like the Smooth PEI plate. It’s thicker than the normal plates so hold to the magnets stronger. I used to get PC lifting the build plate off the magnet but not with the thicker Smooth PEI.
I started off with the textured pei build plate, but gave up on it for the most part after I couldn't get ASA to stick to it even with a glue stick. I'm very much a fan of their smooth plate. Never had any adhesion issues with it. Plus, using a plastic razor blade to scrape up the calibration/purge lines is much more satisfying than on the textured plate.
Use pla for first layer and no bed adhesion issues
You need the liquid glue not glue stick for asa. 110deg c and clean the plate with hot soapy water then a thin layer of the liquid glue. Print asa nearly exclusively with zero issue and no need for any brims @pailpardee.
I mostly print ASA and textured plates are definitely not ideal. I don't even use glue anymore on my smooth plates but I found glue stick is just not very reliable with it. If need you glue I'd try a liquid glue or even cheap pump hairpray.
I was tempted to get it a week ago, but this video pushed me over.
To help with the build plate alignment on the X1, I've been using a Shifty build plate guide (a model that snaps onto the alignment lug and does magic to align the plate). I've gone since launch without one until last month... now I wonder how I lived without it.
I second using a snap-on guide. Makes it much easier to get the plate aligned correctly.
Another thing Bambu should be adding to their list for improvements to future printers.
I got the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier purely because it can be wiped down with rubbing alcohol.
It doesn't have the lower bed temps, and isn't quite as sticky (though somewhat more sticky than any other plate I've used, textured included).
The material seems softer at least with the cleaning area where the nozzle scrapes, so maybe it'll have a shorter shelf life but so far so good and I'm exited for this new wave of much better plates.This version also works with a wider variety of filaments.
;) jep, can proudly say i have a profile for flashforge "standard" petg and a printerprofile for those cheap pey sheet. i just use 99% iso and fresh paper towel (lint free type) every 8-12 printhours. it sticks so good that i have to wait for the plate to cool to 35-40c before it must be flexed off. i have have a few fails while dailing in the temps where it ripped the surface with it!
running this setup for about 400 hours now with 0 problem. it stick so good i can swing the model and plate around even with big models with small surface contact ;)
the temp is 80c for smooth pei in the slicer and 260c firstlayer @ 33/44 mms.
enjoy the fruits of my labor pls
With PETG I mostly use the smooth PEI/HighTemp plate bare (clean with alcohol, no glue, etc) Same with the textured plate. Bed adhesion has always been excellent. In general if I have adhesion issues I don't put anything on and it always seem to be better.
I even do the same with ASA/ABS, which is my primary material. The trick I found is using a dab of acetone on a microfiber cloth to clean smooth PEI instead of alcohol. I eventually noticed IPA can actually leave a slight residue which normally doesn't matter but with ABS the difference was night and day. Dawn soap/water is the next best option.
I put WhamBam's PEX on my main printer a couple of months ago and also liking a lot. Similar to PEI but seems even easier to work with. Oddly, only time I had to resort to a little hairspray/glue recently was to stop some TPU covers from slightly lifting the corners.
Just came to your channel and just wanted to compliment your content; great videography, great sound, and well curated content. Thank you!
OK I learned something. I had been thinking that I always printed PETG at 75C on my Prusa MK4's (textured powder coated plate) and when you said you couldn't always get your prints to stick I was about to really question what you were doing wrong as I never get failures and I really respect your design processes. A quick check and surprise I'm printing at 90C. I'm thinking that Prusa must have changed the default behind my back. LOL.
I’m always a bit confused by other people’s practices around bed adhesion.
I’ve found clean textured pei to work fantastic with pla as long as it’s cleaned properly. And hairspray has worked great with petg in the past but I haven’t used it in awhile.
I really want a g10 on steel sheet. I had g10 for my old cr10 and it worked great for everything I needed. Including flexibles and the texture is really nice.
I’ve been doing some multicolor coasters using a dual color silk pla for the accent color. I’m a big fan of the textured plate for this. The texture gives little peaks and valleys that show off the dual color really well.
I disagree about the engineering plate. It's my go-to plate for ASA and ABS, because it works incredibly well with both. As for your trouble with glue, I highly recommend spreading your glue on with a couple sprays of IPA. The glue dissolves in IPA, so if you apply a few swipes and spray it with IPA and wipe down, you get a super thin perfect layer of glue that is much easier to work with and leaves much less residue.
Fully agree with you about the Engineering plate. I almost exclusively print ASA (100 degrees bed temp and no glue) and TPU (generic TPU profile). I have no issues that weren't of my own making. I'll need to find a good replacement for the engineering plate now it's been discontinued.
Interesting. I literally just ordered one of these plates. Looked like it could work well, and save a bit of money on heating the plate.
I feel like every few years we get a 3D Printer company having a go with a PEX/PEZ build plate under a fancy name and every few years it vanishes when people realise they'd rather have one failure in 100 prints than spending three days removing that tiny bit of filament that has inexplicably bonded to the plate - That and it's not "go to" as Bambu seem to be calling it, you can't reliably use it for PA12, PC or most other materials that hate that coating - It's GREAT for PLA - nothing else except maybe PETG. It's always better to have the print bed specialised for the material, there is no one size fits all.
Flashforge went 8 years shipping printers with textured PEZ because for a very long time they were considered the go to for beginner printers, even they have stopped shipping it. I don't know how long you've been printing for but there used to be a certain tape we all printed on coated in PEZ, when was the last time someone printed on tape - it really is a blast from the past.
There really is a good reason every printer comes with a PEI sheet now
I noticed this also. People don't realize the PEX/PEZ fad has come and gone several times already. G10 is a better all rounder print surface.
I'm using whambam's smooth PEX right now and it has been great for ASA/ABS but I don't tend to have issues with smooth PEI either. I rarely use glue unless it's a really sketchy geometry.
PLA sticks like whoa. I would say too well because sometimes I feel like I am going to break a print trying to pry it off when I print small things like Zou3D models. I had a friend tell me to stick it in the freezer to get it to release those little models and in my experience that does not help. I'm actually looking forward to when my plate gets a little worn in where it sticks less well.
FYI I have had small PETG models lift on corners, even at 80c, on my A1 using this plate. My X1C doesn't have this problem with this plate so there is still an issue with open air bed slingers and PETG which I have come to understand is a thing with my A1.
Don't forget you aren't supposed to use IPA or any chemicals on the plate. Just soap and water occasionally.
Bed adhesion is one thing but then supports will brake if large part. The solution is to use cold bed, put PETG plate 2mm like Vivak using double side tape and allow this plate to gradually bent. So I think that vacuum bed should be tested if allow slight bend using many small holes.
I installed a build plate guide on the left rear of my X1C. It sticks up enough that you can easily position the plate side to side with it angled up enough that the magnets don't grab it. The guide is low enough that it doesn't interfere with the print head. I found it on MakerWorld.
That looks super interesting. I remember years ago when LocBuild made a super adhesive bed for 3D Printers. For parts that had low bed contact - great. For large stuff like your model, it fused to the bed. I’m looking forward to trying g that plate on my two A1’s
I have the Big Tree Tech version and I love it on my P1S and the Bambu version on my A1 Mini and both work great.
Ah, this is what people were talking about when they said this is why biqu did the buy one get one free deal. I bought the biqu 2f1 deal, haven't tried them yet, lol, so I guess this will be even further down the stack. But I'd been using the original PEI textured plate from bambu (the grey one that came with the x1c) for ages, then finally bought the new gold coloured textured plates, and I found the gold texture plate holds on to PETG too well. Thanks for the tip of reducing temp to reduce grip, I will need to try that.
I would have bought one for the X1C and one for the A1 mini, but they are never in stock. And when I get a mail, then I go to the store and boom, they're gone already :)
Yes I just got it last week and I LOVE it .... Everything is awesome... Thanks for sharing ... Stay safe and well...
Would you recommend it if you have the smooth plate already?
@@liamosterhout6538 YES ... Great advance in 3D printing as far as I am concerned, but I have not fully tested it at this point. I will post any problems (if any) when encountered...
@@jhawker2895 thanks!
Bought the plate a couple weeks ago. Definitely worth having for my round of PLA models, although I'm not really pushing things by making enclosures.
I’m pretty happy with the supertack plate so far. I still had curling with PLA before I washed it with Dawn.
The high temp plate is still my go-to for smooth surfaces. If you wash the high temp plate with Dawn and scrub it with a red Scotchbrite pad while it’s soapy, it has an almost 100% success rate for me. Bambu says you can sand the plate with 600 grit to increase adhesion but it’s not really noted anywhere aside from a single line of text at the bottom of the store page for the build plate.
I’m glad I’m not alone in having trouble positioning it. It feels like it’s almost too wide to fit between the locating pins in the X1C.
Dish soap and scotchbrite has never failed me when I've had PEI adhesion issues.
Ordering it right now. Looks awesome. (UPDATE: Out of stock till Dec 3. Hahahhahaha. Dang it.) I have only had my Bambu A1 for a few weeks and haven't had adhesion issues but what the heck. I only have 2 plates, the PEI and the shiny smooth. Dang thing is only $15 bucks! I just wish I had known about it when I placed an order for the .2mm nozzle... 2 days ago, dangit.
I used to go for the high temp smooth PEI plate for PLA, textured (black) PEI for PETG and TPU, engineering plate with liquid glue for ABS/ASA. And the old cool plate with liquid glue for particularly demanding PLA prints.
Now I just print it all on the textured (gold) PEI plate, PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU, no glue. And if I worry about a corner prone to curling, I add mouse ear brims. I really think of it as the one plate to rule them all, but I might pick up a supertack plate next time I order.
Im really enjoying this latest character arc that you are developing through the last few videos, much more sarcastic and seemingly fed up with the "armchair experts " 😂😂
Once again great video! Thankyou
Yes.... I use a flat steel plate and PVA glue.
Sometimes they stick too well and I have to soak the plate and glue in water to get the parts off the plate
The only plate you're missing is a custom Clough42 textured plate 😉 also I've found the engineering plate had better adhesion to Nylon but that's about the only time i would use it versus textured pei.
I use Lightyear G10 (garolite) plates with PPA-CF and PA6-CF. PPA-CF doesn't need any kind of adhesive on that plate and it keeps a perfectly flat bottom.
I haven't tried the Bambu plate. However, I do reviews on Amazon for new products which Amazon provides. I recently received a build plate for an A1 Mini that looks and works like the Bambu plate. It has the brand name Yoopai and is called their Epoxy Resin plate. It too is super sticky, infact at times too sticky. After seeing the Bambu plate I started printing the Yoopai with the Super Tack settings and have had great success. The A1 Mini plate is $9.99. I bought the same plate for my P1S and both have become my go to plates. I have only used them with Bambu PLA Basic but really like the results. The texture of the plates sounds much the same, and the Yoopai plate is also difficult to place correctly on my P1S. If anyone does a comparison I would like to hear their thoughts.
Hah, I do reviews on Amazon for products as well in the UK, just put it in my wish list as it's only available as a USA import at the moment. Fingers crossed 😉
Out of curiosity how often have you given 1-2 star reviews to free products?
@@JJFX- A few times actually as they have been really bad, I had a power bank and the battery swelled and cracked the case, and a few items that have fallen apart after first use. 4 is my normal rating, 5 if it's really good quality and the price is OK and 3 if it's OK quality wise but is not quite what the description says it is, like today, a well made ratcheting screwdriver that does not actually ratchet. Not sure if it's the same in the USA but I'm amazed that some reviewers give 5 stars in every review even though it's a POS and some that obviously have not used the item as they get so many things wrong, and don't get me started on the 5 word reviews.🤬
@@thegrumpygamer3081 Glad to hear it. I'm asking because I've grown so tired of Amazon and how easily listings and reviews still get manipulated.
I rarely see free product reviewers leave more than an occasional critical review so I'm curious if you think doing that frequently would affect being in the program or how often they send products.
Im a firm believer in cleaning is key! And dawn is NOT it. I use fast orange mechanics soap with pumice and an old toothbrush. Scrub the plate with the soap and brush without water. Then clean with hot water, as hot as your water heater can do. And you can instantly feel it with your hands. I haven’t used glue since and have never had one come undone.
Edit: i forgot to add. Let the plate cool makes a HUGE difference when removing. I freaking love the engineering plate. But i would like to try this bc id like an extra plate
Wanted to let you know it says X1 comparable plates will be back in stock Dec 3rd. I did the “notify me when available thing”. I hope there’s a way for you to still get affiliate credit for my purchase when it’s available. Might be something you want to check on as I’m sure the traffic you generate from the video will reduce after a couple days, and it seems unfair for you to not receive compensation for all attempts to purchase while it’s “out of stock”.
Update: I just realized I can just come back to video and click on link again when it’s back in stock. I encourage others to do the same. Saving your link in my calendar for Dec. 3rd.
For my PLA prints, I use the stock X1C cold plate. To drastically improve adhesion, I did something that worked wonders for me. Here's the process:
Clean the plate with water to remove surface dust and debris.
The trick: I rubbed the plate down with silicon carbide powder + water by creating a slurry (around 2000 grit). This step made all the difference, even restoring adhesion after handling the plate with oily fingers or using poor-quality isopropyl alcohol.
This method worked so well that it made my adhesion way better than stock. I shared this tip on the 3D printing subreddit, but the post was removed for being flagged as a "potentially hazardous tutorial." Oh well.... Damn mods.
Your printer will have less vibration if you pour it in concrete.
@@TheOneAndOnlySatan lol?
I have the super tack in my cart, looking forward to trying it out.
Bought two of these the second I saw something about it and I can articulate the same thing, the adhesion is just unmatched and incredible but a little too much sometimes, sorta depends on preference but it’s my go-to plate now for my mini and P1S
I use a glass bed with any kind of filement and a mixture of 50% white glue/school glue and 50% water. Everything sticks like hell with around 50-60 degree C and pops right off when the plate cools down. It is washable with warm water without leaving any traces. A printbed for eternity.
I already have a large selection of build plates and cant say I have had any major issues with bed adhesion or warping, yeah I have had the odd part come loose but I managed to fix that with the next try.
I still have some OG Coolplate stickers to get through also!
That's very impressive! Thanks James. I hope I can track one down that will fit my Ender 3 S1 Pro, these look either a little too small or a little to large. I'm guessing that cutting one down isn't an option?
I have a A1 mini and print mostly with PLA basic and PETG-HF using the PEI plate. I wash the plate with dishsoap and a toothbrush once evry 5-10 prints and never had any issue of the part not sticking (mostly enclosures for various things) with the standard setup from the slicer. Even sometimes, some part are a bit too sticky.
My goto plates have been the cool plate when I need PLA with as smooth as possible bottom surface or tiny parts (although this new plate looks better), the textured PEI plate for most of my printing (PLA, PETG) because it doesn't need glue. But then for most other filaments I just use the engineering plate, it with some glue stick has worked for pretty much all filaments I have tried, nylon, PET, PC, even some PP. If the engineering plate doesn't work then I will generally try the high temp plate but I don't like it because it is just a thin sticker.
I am really considering getting the new supertack plate and the smooth PEI plate though because they will probably solve all my complaints about the current plates, like the cool plate needing glue and the high temp plate just being a thin sticker.
I was also having trouble with PETG adhesion with textured PEI, until I cranked up the bed temp to 80C, and now its working perfectly (on my horrifying UM2 clone). Maybe that's worth a try for when you want the texture.
Thx d00d I recently noticed the new build plate and was wondering
I have textured PEI plate, and I never had issues with PLA not sticking to it. I keep the bed temperature at 50C
Try 30. And use a very sharp angle. This is where these shine. It’s same as the biqu frozen plate
I have been using the BTT cold plate since release, it’s been a game changer. Small parts stick too well though
Damn, now I want one of these Bambu Coolplate SuperTack buildplates. Guess that means I need to buy a Bambu Coolplate SuperTack compatible 3D printer too 🤭Good thing that Corporate Greed Day (I mean Black Friday) is 2 days ago so I still have 363 days to think about this 😁
My main gripe with bambu textured pei buildplates or others like the biqu cryogrip (I use both) is not adhesion. It is the thickness of the spring steel. I print plenty of large parts that has perfect adhesion but the plate still bends around the outer edge due to being too flimsy. The magnetic force is not enough. For more damanding tool type prints I have been forced to glue shape cut plates to the underside of bambu buildplates to avoid warping. I am surprised thicker buildplates never seem to be on the table. I have at least googled for it many times in the past.
I coated my PEI plate in watered down PVA (left to dry) the other day in order to get light weight PLA to stick. It's PITA and just won't stick otherwise.
Its amazing how far we came along in terms of build plates on FFF 3d printers ! i recently upgraded my printrbot metal bed from Glass to PEI for PET filament . if on the glass plate i always needed glue to have the print stick on the PEI texture plate i don't use any glue ! Really curious about this Bambu Lab SuperTack ! you mention it works well with PETG but what about PET ?
For me generally (all types of prints) it's textured for PETG and smooth for PLA. I hardly ever use any other filaments though so I'm perhaps no the best example. I do have misprints ocasionally but not too often.
Apparently it is the same as Cryogrip, but at a cheaper price which is nice to see
Never had PLA not stick to my PEI buildplate with a brim, even managed to print
Interesting... I've been using the engineering plate exclusively, with no glue, and extremely rarely have any sticking issues.
Thank you for making this video. I have been surprised at the lack of videos for this product. I really appreciate that you made it short and simple and showed what kind of texture it leaves. Thank you.
It does not impart any texture; right?
This may be an odd question, how would you recommend cutting this plate?, I have a Voron V0 and this could be a nice plate for that machine. With an angle grinder I would be worried it would gum up while cutting through the build surface. Great video and great review!
This supertac plate currently does not work with the X1C. The X1 cant read the code on the plate and the printer throws an error. Not sure why it can't read it, maybe it needs an update in order to understand the code but I suspect the problem is that the printing on the plate does not have enough contrast with the coating. During the time when the error pops up and you tell it to ignore the error the nozzle oozes some plastic and the printer does not put down the first layer properly. And it lifts and you get spaghetti. I have read that you can turn off the plate detection but I don't have any desire to do that. I paid extra for this printer to help keep me from making mistakes. I suspect that this is only a problem on the X1C because none of the other models verify that the plate is what you specified when you sliced it. My printer came with the gold textured plate which is fantastic! I also have the smooth plate which is currently my favorite. I have been looking for the discontinued cool plate and engineering plates because I have a friend who likes both of them. Both of us get this build plate ID error with the supertac plate and it also appears to be a common issue on the facebook group.
Same thing just happened to me. I thought I would be able to just use the plate and select it in the slicer and all would be good, but the same failure occurred. After doing a search on the Bambu wiki, it specifically says you have to turn off build plate detection for the X1C or failure will occur. That would have been good to know before purchasing it, but that info is near the way bottom of the product page so my fault for not catching that.
Using the btt cryogrip which is similar and no more glue needed.
Your intro: If you're doing a whole video on hot plates, especially with a thumbnail of a print with that much overhang, then HECK YES.
I'm here to learn, and you're entertaining as well 👍
i'm generally printing Printer parts out of ABS/ASA, and my goto has been , and will probably continue to be the engineering plate. the textured plate is a bit too textured for mating surfaces ive found, and the smooth/hi temp plate give a glossy approaching mirror finish which looks real wierd when its only on one face of the print. in fact, i've been having to put glue on my engineering plate just to get parts off the plate or they stick too well and take a chunk out of whatever epoxy-esque finish they used for the engineering plate.
I bought the Super Tack for my P1S, it is really great for lots of small parts all at once. Maybe my gold texture plate is just warn out but I struggle with it on the those prints with lost of small parts prints. Does the texture plate wear out??
I have a very large printing job i plan to use all bambu filament ill use your link to buy them from now on hope you get some lol planning to get over $2k
Why not purchase the Polymaker, it is the exact same filament but cheaper!
That sounds like a recipe for a mangled plate with spring steel.
Why not look up the alternatives like biqus cryogrip series that has various sizes
0:23 The most masterful hand fan...
I don't understand, why would they boast about having the bottom surface of the part look like the top surface? Who would want that? The bottom surface always looks a lot better regardless of the build plate, unless your Z-offset isn't set correctly or the mesh leveling is off.
50% sugar and 50% water works very good. And if you let the object cool down on the bed it pops off by it self most of the times. Almost free.
Does it smell like baking cookies?
Toffee Tack!
Except accounting for your time and effort
Looks good though a little too sticky for me. I have never tried the toaster as it takes too long to print and I am impatient. And of course I do not own a Bamboo lab printer that can print at faster speeds. I was surprised at how cheap the build plate is.
Not in stock in the UK, been waiting for an email notification for a few weeks now.
If you are using glue stick or liquid glue, does it even matter what the build plate material is?
It seems like the print would then be sticking to the glue, not the plate. Does it matter if it’s PEI, or glass, or even just a piece of spring steel with no coating at all? I always thought the whole reason to use PEI was so I DID NOT have to use messy adhesion aids like glue stick!
I’m current.y running a PEI flex plate, but for PLA the best adhesion I ever had was to the glass plate that came with my Ender 3V2 - I kept a little hammer around to give parts a wack to release them from the glass plate and a scraper with those orange plastic blades for thinner parts that were too short to wack. And that was at 40 degree bed temp!
PS: I really miss wacking parts to get them off - so does the cat who loved to chase the ones that came off a bit too well!
I own a A1, I have watched many videos on it, but I have never been able to get clean prints like yours and others.
Cool plate, now I have a dilemma... whether to buy SuperTack or BIQU Panda BuildPlate CryoGrip?
Did you see BIQU Panda CryoGrip (Frostbite/Glacier)?
What do you think?
Thanks for video, when i choose from Bambu i will buy it from ur link ;)
I find that PETG sticks fine to the textured PEI. Bambu PETG sticks too well actually. But I don't use glue at all.
I purchased one of each size as soon as first review hit youtube. Since you're in contact with Bambu, have they mentioned how they recommend cleaning it? TYIA
Thanks for showing this plate. I would have liked to see if it would help with printing ABS. Any thoughts?
It won’t. Because you can’t use abs on it. It’s ONLY for Pla and PETG. No other material.
Look up biqu’s plates. They have a version of this that works with abs.
@@alecubudulecu I sincerely appreciate the reply. I'll check it out! :)
One thing that is so weird is that people are trashing this plate on BBL’s social media calling it a copycat of the Biqu Glacier; which A it’s not at all (I have both) and B even if it was, no one else should make PEI plates because one company does? Lol
Dang it...I literally just ordered a replacement smooth PEI plate and some filament from Bambu Lab like a week ago. Looks like I'll be needing to go back for another order.
I use PEZ on everything now. Still using resin like G10 for ABS/ASA and PEI for PC though
Ive had good luck with smooth pei for pla, abs, and asa, textured pei for petg only, and g10 for polycarbonate and nylon. Textured pei is a no from me for anything except petg, I cant get it to stick with abs or asa at all, but clean smooth pei with abs or pla will absolutely do that torture test with no issues, for me.
Beds must be clean, no glue, spray, release agent, nano hyper gloop, or other mystical $30 bottle of whatever, just clean and dry, without any fingerprints. Maybe scrub the smooth pei with a scotchbrite pad every now and then as it gets shined up with use.
really, asa sticks to my textured pei like nothing
@riba2233 weird, mine is completely useless for it. Different pei, or different abs or something else maybe. Im not really a huge fan of the texture from textured pei anyway.
@@pmcquay1 yeah interesting, I can barely peel of an asa skirt line from it
I had for a week already haven't tried it yet, I scared to print PETG on ti that it will stick too well :D
You can see at 7:34 that the print is lifting the plate up slightly
Most important question not answered 😬How many prints does it do before this amazing adhesion stops to perform. As with any advanced textured surface with high adhesions 1 of 2 things will happen, either micro bits of plastic will ramain on the buildplate, or micro bits of the build plate will remain on the printed part. And once the build plate is clogged up with micro plastic, its done. Or once the entiry magic layer of the surface is distributed over printed parts, it's done.
FYI I buy black smooth pei plates from a German manufacturer and the adhesion is much superior to any textured pei plate I have ever used
Who is it ?
Seems like the biqu frozen plate that’s been on the market for a year. I have one. Exact same features.
While I can't come close to justifying a K2 Plus, this looks like an awesome upgrade for the P1P. Bambu Lab's ingenuity has never ceased amaze me. Thanks for sharing this little marvel.
I've been having poor results with the SuperTack build plates on my P1S. Lots of warping on the edges, hardly any adhession. I just can't figure out why. I've been using PETG HF. My textured PEI plates on the other hand have no issues, to the point where I use a glue stick as a release agent or else there's risk of part damage.
Interesting you're using glue so much. I can do PETG and ASA on the Textured PEI with absolutely no issues.
Can it be cleaned if it gets dirty? Is it cleaned with the usual scrubbing and mild detergent?
This plate is water and soap only, no rubbing alcohol.
will it work on my ender? I don't exactly have bamboo money for what little I use my printer for (I mean trust me when I need it I use the hell out of it, I just don't need it that often)
Depends on sizing I think, but it probably will you’ll just have to look at what movements you have for printing and where stuff prints and of course leveling difference
The Bambu printers have a bigger bed. Bigger by enough that I don't think it would work without cutting the plate a bit.
It’s not the correct size for an ender
Buy a third party version of this made for your printer specifically. Cool Plate Super Tack (what a silly long name) is just their name for a new material a few companies are selling plates with now.
The Biqu/Bigtreetech Glacier plates are probably what you want.
How much was the ender? Bambu A1 mini is 199$
Any of these polyurea build plates available for the MK4S?
I always use a smooth PEI sheet (Prusa) and never got why people use gluesticks or spray. The lower temps look interesting though.
Can I get a 350 x 350 mm SuperTack build plate for my SV08? 😀
PS - Love your bass outro music on this video.
Ordered thanks.
This is not the experience I have had with the supertak buildplate. For me, the smooth plate seems to work wayyy better. After seeing that toaster print, I may revisit it.