How to Repair and Replace Sea pump & Impeller on Bravo 3 MerCruiser
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 เม.ย. 2019
- R & R Sea pump & Impeller on Bravo 3 MerCruiser
2000 Johnson 90Hp Water Temperature Gauge Installation. on a 2001 Sea Fox 172 Center Consul. Part from ebay item # 332256421187
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MERCRUISER PARTS
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This video gave me what I needed to get the job done! I am very grateful for the efforts that went into the video. Saved some bucks, and know my ship just a little bit more! All the best!
Happy to hear it all worked out for you. 🤙⚓️. Thank you for your support.
Just wanted to say thank you. Your video really helped. Although the space was limited in my searay 220BR. I was able to get it done
Another job on the "to do list" this Spring. I am glad that your motors and outdrives are the same on my boat, Searay 290 Amberjack. Thanks Eddie!
You can do it !! Happy to help out. Thank you for your support. 🤙⚓️
Best help on youtube for Mercruisers. Big Thank You. Save me time and money.
I have been watching youTube ever since it began. Your informative videos are amoun the very best that I have ever seen on any subject. Very well done team Eddie you people are a hit!
Thank you for your support. 🤙⚓️
Just got a boat with a Bravo 3 and watch all your videos. Thanks for taking the time. This is my next project.
Welcome back, brother! Hope all is well with the family. Once again, great video!! Thanks!
All your videos are part of my maintenance kit for my boat. These videos have giving me the knowledge and confidence to perform so many maintenance tasks and save a lot of money. Appreciate your efforts brother!
Thanks Eddie! Great videos and learning tools to assist us all in saving $$$$. I'll be looking forward to more teaching/learning videos of the do's and don'ts.
Eddie thanks so much for the part number and very informative video. I just tackled this project on my twin 5.7 Sea Ray 290 SS. Saved me a boat load of money (pun intended) and helped me realize I’m not as flexible as I was 20 years ago. I had virtually no room to work but I managed to figure it out. My boat is in the water to I used a rubber stopper from the hardware store to plug the intake hose. 1 7/16ths top diameter on the stopper worked perfectly.
You make it look soooo - easy. Thanks for the demo. Will be brave enough to try myself now. Cheers!
MrPipmeister You can do it! 🤙
Eddy, I love your videos. I too have the same boat setup and yours are by far my favorite. Keep them coming.They are very helpful.
Thank you. And thank you for all your support and have a great boating season. 🤙⚓️
Awesome job Eddie, thanks for taking the time to make this video you helped me out big time.
Thank you for your support.
Great work with the camera to show us exactly what you're talking about. Great editing! Kept it interesting without a lot of wasted time with dead space. Nice scene cuts. I like your channel alot.
Eddie,
I have a 2003 Sea Ray 5.0 that I just had the bellows and impeller serviced. On day 3 in the water I ran the boat around 3500 rpm and did some sharp circles for the grandkid. No tube or anything. When I got back to the dock I noticed the bilge pump pumping as I was walking away. When I looked inside I noticed water spraying up like a water hose half on (no motor running) the water wasn't hot but I knew I had to get it out of there water quick!!! Needless to say I believe you just answered where the water is coming from. I just had the marina replace the bellows and impeller. I believe you helped me tremendously..
Thank you
Nice job as always Eddie. I have an OMC Cobra and it has the easiest impeller to replace you've ever seen. Right behind a plastic cover on the rear of the upper gear housing of the outdrive. 3 bolts, cover's off, 3 more the impeller housing comes out. 20 min job, can be done if the boat's in water if you are careful not to drop anything in the water.
Thanks Eddie! Couldn't have changed the impeller on my 2006 Sea Ray 240 Sundeck yesterday without this video. Everything went just as you showed, except the red inlet hose was very difficult to get off on the left side of the engine (very cramped space for the single 350 Mag MPI engine in a 26 foot boat). Eventually had to use a box cutter to cut the hose end a bit to get the hose off. It was also hard to get that side inlet hose back on. Anyway, success! 20 minutes to change the impeller and 4 hours to get the hose off!
Same boat here, anout to get at it this weedend
Great job Eddie you're my go-to guy when I got to fix my boat
Thank you 🤙
I just changed my impeller on my 1996 Chaparral and it was so easy to do. My boat has v belts, so by removing 3 bolts, I could drop the pump down and loosen the the hose clamps and just wiggle the pump out of the boat. To put the impeller back in, I used a small engine ring compressor that someone mentioned here and it slipped right in. Much easier than I thought it would be and I'm 76 years old.
That’s awesome. Thank you for your support and watching the videos
@@OnboardWithEddie Your videos really helped, I had a OMC for 30 years and changing the impeller took 10 minutes. I really needed to see how to do these things. Thanks again.
Great video. Helped me change my impeller yesterday. Thanks again
That intake hose, where it disconnects further from the pump is nice!
Very helpful video! Thanks, Eddie.
no problem
Nice videos! Very informative as I deal with my 2001 260 Sundancer!
Happy to help out. And thank you for your support
Thanks Eddie. I’m really missing my mastercraft prostar impeller installation with the center mount motor.
Merci beaucoup Eddie! Nice videos!!!
Eddie one way to help you to squeeze the impeller while installing is to take a hose clamp around the middle and tighten it slowly while squeezing the fins in the right direction. Once you get the impeller started in the housing loosen up the clamp and take it off before pushing it in the rest of the way.
George Harvey. thank you Great idea. 👍🏼
This helped me tremendously! Thanks for the great video.
Happy to help out. And thank you, for your support. 🤙⚓️
Didn't know the entire bracket can come out. Just did mine last weekend. Wish I had watched you video first. Those three bolts are a pain to get to in the boat.
Great videos Eddie.....
Great video Eddie
Whenever I'm working in a compartment with metal tools and batteries I remove the batteries or I at least disconnect them and cover the batteries to prevent an accidental short , Also we don't want that engine to somehow turn over! Eliminate the power in that boat before getting your hands into those belts and pulleys.
I notice you use the batteries to rest your weight on and sometimes you're holding metal tools, one slip and you'll have a direct short. Be safe please.
Also a very nice video !
Made it look easy thanks Eddie
Great video Eddie, thank you. Really like the detail you provide regarding tools required and where levels of difficulty exist.
Would ask to hear some feedback on how long this repair (and other video repairs) should take to complete, or at least how long it takes a pro like you to complete?
Thank you again!
Thank you. It take me about an hour, On each Engine. Because I am used to doing it, on my engines. It could take longer
for the mickey mouse seal (o-ring) you can use a thick marine grease to hold it in the groove so it does not move out when you tighten down the housing. I do the same on the Cobra impeller housing. Keeps it in place.
Great video. Do you have a part number for that kit?
Man kind of makes you miss the old simple Alpha drive impeller! LOL
It’s not all that bad. If you had to, you could do it in the water. on the alpha, you have to pull the boat back out. 🤷🏻♂️. 🤙⚓️
Great video. Thanks for putting it together.
Here's a recommendation the next time you change your impellers (not propellers :)). Go on AMAZON or go to an auto parts store (or Harbor Freight), and buy a cheap piston ring compression tool. You'll probably need the smallest one they sell, but they are adjustable. You can use it to scrunch down the blades on the impeller, then set and center the ring compressor right over over the center of the pump housing using the pump drive shaft to line it up, then tap the propeller into the housing with the butt end of a hammer or socket wrench.
Edward Morton. Thank you for your support. That’s a great idea. I will definitely try that out. Next time. Thanks. (impeller 🤦🏻).
THANKYOU EDDIE!!
We need more people like you Eddie. Thanks a Boat Load!!! Lol
Completely awesome video! Thanks so much. Do you have a part number for that replacement plate in the housing? Mine is pretty rough.
Drew Conklin QSL 862776A01
Great video! I have one question though. Why did you remove the hose clamp on the red seawater hose instead of using the quick disconnect on the hose? Is that quick disconnect too hard to reconnect?
I wondered the same thing. That quick connect is simple and it’s there for this purpose. Makes life much easier.
Good video Eddie. Perhaps in your next videos you could show how to flush the engines with freshwater, while the boat is in the water? Cannot find any flushing videos of stern drive water pick up I/Os ...while the boat in water? Thanks for all your help.
Throw a zip tie or 2 around the impeller fins to hold them while you install. takes about 30 seconds to install after that. Your welcome...
Thanks buddy. Good pro tip.
add a little dishwashing soap and its 10 seconds
I use a hose clamp and Vaseline.
So if you put the zip tie on and then cram it into the housing, how do you cut the zip tie off and get it out of the housing? Isn't the zip tie stuck inside?
@@ThePlaton20
Well you put the zip tie on the near the outer edge of the impeller, just to compress it enough to get the other edge of the impeller into the housing, slide it in with Dawn dish soap, when its half way in, cut off the zip tie and slide it the rest of the way in.
There is a belt pattern sticker there on top.
I have a 2002 Rinker FV250....I just had the sea pump done, and the guy was able to do it in the water...which is almost impossible. He said if he hadn't been as skinny as he is, this would have been an engine out repair. It is awful how jammed up everything is in that engine compartment.
great video eddie, do you have the part number for the plastic replacement and plate
Hi Eddie love your video I’m about to do this to my boat I have the same 5.0 MPI motor I cannot find the kit for the impeller anywhere online do you have the part numbers I’m only finding the impeller and the O-ring I’m not finding the plastic housing in the ware plate. Thanks
Now my raw water pump is leaking out the front shaft at 2500 rpm and above about a month after installing the new impeller. So I ordered a new pump from a local Mercruiser dealer. At least I will know how to install the new pump when it gets here. Guess I should have gotten a new raw water pump to begin with since the engine has 520 hours on it and the pump is over 13 years old.
Received the new pump and successfully installed it on 9/29/2019. No more leaks!
Eddie - I have a question. I recently winterized my boat and did the antifreeze flush with the Camco setup, using the muffs. I had the water running and let the boat run for 10 minutes. Toward the end of the 10 minutes my high temp alarm came on (gauge read 220), even though the water was running into the intake and coming out the exhaust. Not sure what caused this other than maybe the water flow from the hose was insufficient? Boat ran fine a few weeks ago before we took it out of the water - no overheat issues. Thanks.
Real good, your a savior
Seth Richardson. Thank you for your support. 🤙
Thanks for the video Eddie, great information.
I can’t seem to find the entire kit everywhere I look it’s just the impeller and the (Mickey Mouse) seal. Any suggestions?
Where do you get the hose connectors between the two hoses coming off the pump? My boat doesn’t have them and I wish to add them to make it easier to swap next time. I looked online and couldn’t find them...thanks
Great Video. Question is there a directional difference between the port and starboard pumps?
John Wilson. Hey John. Thank you for your support. They’re both the same. Sorry for the delay on the response
Do you know about what year they fitted plastic covers over the brass?
I reside in your area and after watching the video, which was perfectly executed, I realize it’s too big a job for me. Can you recommend a mobile mechanic in the Nassau area?
Have you tired using dish soap to put the impeller in? It's always worked for me in the past,
You can always use the hose clamp to squeeze impeller then slide in.
Yes you can use a hose clamp or zip tie. but you do take a chance of damaging the impeller. That’s why I prefer to struggle a little bit. I have noticed that using dishwashing liquid makes it easier. Thanks for the input.
do you have a video or any help on the driveshaft, seals replacement on this pump? mine sprays water onto the belt, i am told i need the driveshaft kit. can you help? thanks!!
Use a zip tie to compress the new impeller and lotsa dish soap. Don't use chemical sprays.
chrisvr6 that an awesome idea, to use a zip tie. Thanks.
Great Video - so, can you confirm that in a Bravo III drive, there is no Impeller in the actual drive? That the inside Sea Pump and Impeller pull the water through the drive itself? I have a Formula 330SS with 7.4MC and Bravo III outdrives. Thanks much!
Seloc Marine has the manuals online
Obviously the indicator would be overheating or to hot . could this cause the rpm to be sporadic up and down on the rpm's? thanks cool video ..
My 6.2L MPI Mercruiser allows you to change the impeller and wear plate without taking out the whole seawater pump. There are four screws you can take off on the front, which allows the pump basically to split in half, allowing you to remove the front part of the impeller housing, impeller, and wear plate while the back half of the pump stays attached to the bracket. One nice thing about it is that you don't have to remove any of the water hoses.
Here's the problem -- getting to those 4 screws is a major pain in the ass. I had to buy an endoscopic camera and have it aimed at the bottom of the bilge because I couldn't get a direct line of sight on the screws and had to feel by hand. I wish I had more space in front of the engine, there's only about 6 inches of clerance between the front of the engine and the fiberglass of the engine compartment.
I don’t think, boat manufacturers, really think about repairing things once it’s built. 🤷🏻♂️ Good luck. But I all ways take the pumps out. To work on it. Thank you for watching the videos. And your support.
Eddie, do you ever use the quick disconnect on the red hose or do you always take the hose clamp off. What would be the advantage of not using the quick disconnect. Is it a pain to reinstall?
lqqkuprob there isn’t a difference between the two. it’s just a preference. what ever is easier for you. Good luck. And Thank you for your support
@@OnboardWithEddie Thanks for your input. Keep the videos coming. They are great.
Where do I find this pump kit? Also FYI Mercruiser has added a tab to the pump bracket that make the removal of the fuel system mandatory. GRRRR!!
That tab was a pain in the butt! I grinded it off so next time I won't need to loosen the cool fuel module.
Eddy another great video.
I do have a question, changed serpentine belt this weekend, however, could not get the belt to stay exactly in the middle. It was creeping over to the left on water pump. I changed the adjuster pully. And tightened all screws on all of the pullys, some were loose. It worked fine. Took the boat out for 1 hour drive, and belt was off line slightly again, any suggestions, as to why belt is not staying completely in center of all pullys. Afraid I will go through another 80.00 mercury belt soon the way the belt is not riding properly on pullys.
You have to look at all the pulleys and see which one might be out. most likely it’s the raw water pump. The bushes could wear in the front pushing the Polly and a belt out. Hope that helps
@@OnboardWithEddie thanks for the reply, will do.
@@OnboardWithEddie Thanks Eddie for you great videos and tips.
zip tie the impeller tight and drop into the pump and then cut the zip tie and remove,
Thank you for showing us the ins and outs. Never could understand why they pump water from the lake into the motor, to cool fluid that is pumped through the motor also. Two pumps to bring lake water onto the boat... Why not mount a radiator in the lake that you have one pump circulating coolant...???
Do you have a video for lower unit seal kit bravo 3? Thanks
Hey, my boat is in the water and I need to change the impeller. I have a 2005 Monterey with MerCruiser 360 Mag MPI - how to I stop the water from coming in before I go to detach the hoses from the pump?
Will water come in the boat from the red hose ?
Is there a close valve ?
If the boat is in the water. ?
Can this be done if in the water ?
Where’d you get the kit for the impeller with the diff backing and O ring?
I got it from Amazon, or you can get it from eBay. Hope that helps you out. Thanks foryour support.🤙⚓️
Instead of trying to squeeze and turn the impeller in I just use a clamp, get the fins started in the right direction then tighten the clamp, pop in the impeller and push it on through the clamp the rest of the way onto the shaft.
where did you got to the safety bracket attach to engine hatch?. Thx
It came with the boat.
I did this today, super easy based on your video. Thanks so much. My problem is I can’t get a good seal it is leaking new o ring looked a little big. Used the old one as it still looked good. Still leak. I’m going to try to old housing tomorrow. New housing must not be sealing right. Any thoughts. Appreciated
You may need need a new pump. Are you sure it’s leaking from the back plate. and not the front seal behind the pulley?
@@OnboardWithEddie well it wasn’t leaking before I removed. I ended up using the original back plate. The wear on the wear plate wasn’t bad. Sanded it down a bit to get smooth as possible. Re assembled with new O ring. No leaks. So, not sure why the new part wouldn’t seal correctly
When you use the “new” kit with added wear plate it makes the OEM impeller too long….so the fit is off. The kit I bought is from GLM and they provided a slightly shorter impeller to make up for the added thickness of that new wear plate.
@@bartbarry39 GLM ?? What is that ? I’m going to do the port engine this winter when it’s in storage.
Eddy. where were u your video are so helpful. the camera shot are not as good as the one u did few years back. take time to get a close shot of the parts u remove or add. happy to ear again from u. it s all good
Different camera guy. lol. But I will work on that. Thank you
i have a trick... put a large zip tie to install the rubber impeller...then cut way the tie when its in!
My boat already has the rear port adapter is 862776A01. Where do I find just the wear plate? What is that kit number?
Use a wire tie or hose clamp to compress impeller
😊
How the hell you get those hoses off and back on? Any trick?
You can use 2 picks to pull them off. What I do is coat the neck that the hose slides onto with waterproof marine grease; that keeps the hoses from getting stuck in place. I use Evinrude triple guard grease.
So to confirm this video - there is no impeller in the lower unit on a Bravo III outdrive. Correct? I have twin 7.4's and I just replaced the raw water pump on the engines. Last year, temps were perfect at 180 degrees. This year after the water pump replacement, one engine is running at 185-190. I'm going to replace the thermostat housing and thermostat as both look pretty bad. But no impeller in the outdrives, correct??????
Thank you for watching the videos. And your support. No raw water pump in the outdrive. But There is a water pick up on the outdrive. So the water goes through the outdrive. On must. When was the last time, you changed the risers and manifolds? If the thermostats don’t work, you may have to look into that.
@@OnboardWithEddie Thanks for the response. Risers and Manifolds were new in 2018. I've read about the "Bravo-sitis" issue with the Bravo III out drives. The lower unit picks up the water and sends it through a small tube that goes thru the transom assembly. And after time this tube collapses. So. I'm evaluating putting in a thru hull (sea cock) and connecting it to the raw water pump. One for each engine. I'd leave the water pick up in the out drives and connect the new thru hull together with a "Y" valve. This would guarantee strong water to the engine while still allowing water to come up through the outdrive (is there any cooling concerns in the outdrive?) Thoughts? Love your channel!
I have never heard of the tube inside collapsing. The tub going from the gimbal housing into the transom. That hose sometimes leaks or collapse.
Very good video Eddie. I have the same engine but my housing doesn´t comes loose because of fuelfilter box stops me from twisting the housing out. Can I invite you to Sweden to help me ;-)
Hi Eddie. I just replaced the impellor and now I'm not getting water thru the system. It seems to be stopping at the pump. No leaks. Any idea on what could be stopping water?
Is the water pumping up to the engine? Best way to see this is to take off the hose that goes to the water pump on the engine. and see if the water pumps out of it. if it doesn’t, then it could be the water pump on the engine.
Should this be done by hours or years? Mines a fresh water boat? Thanks people
Where you find this kit, I need the same one.
Eddie, I just replaced the impeller on my Mercruiser 5.7 GM V-8 engine. I notice a very small spray of water from the housing, uncertain where exactly. Removed it again, Double checked the seals. Still a small leak. Put back on the old housing where there was no leaks prior, still a small spray of water. Any suggestions? Could the pulley assembly need replaced along with the new impeller I installed? I am not sure if it matters but I have not had it in the water yet, just been using the muffs to test everything out.
I’m thinking, 🤔 I you didn’t clean the surface of the pump good enough
@@OnboardWithEddie Ok Ill pull it again and give it a thorough cleaning. Thanks!
I just commented on someone else’s post regarding this. If you used the new composite rebuild kit it comes with a wear plate. That plate has a thickness to it that makes the OEM impeller too long. The company who makes the kit should offer a slightly shorter impeller to make up the added thickness….which will allow you to get a better seal when tightening up on that pump cover.
@@bartbarry39 Thanks for the info. I ended up replacing the pully (the entire front of the pump) as well as the impellor housing and it seemed to fix the issue. I think it must have been a small leak within the pulley.
Anybody know where can i find the replacement cap with the wear plate?
You make it look so easy but work around those Mercury cruiser is not
Hi Eddie.
Thanks for this video.
Do you have the part number of the whole kit for me?
Regards from Germany
Dominik Löbrich thank you. QSL 862776A1
@@OnboardWithEddie part number is not good.
HELP? My issue is the drive oil is leaking through the cap is my discovery. Could the problem be as simple as missing O ring inside the cap, if an O ring is required, not sure? Or could the problem be a pressure issue? I am fairly sure the leak is the cap because I surrounded the cap with paper towels, the towels are soaked in oil after a day on the lake and oil on the engine floor? Any help would be grand, and Thank you for sharing. I have almost decided to attempt the impeller change vs the expensive dealership or others. Dealership charges almost 600 dollars including 3 hrs of labor. I see the Dealership over estimating labor on other jobs I accomplished as well.
If the drive oil reservoir is full the oil leak is over the top vs If I only add oil to the lowest level to prevent the alarm, the leak is decreased. Nevertheless the leak is driving me crazy........Help please?
Duh, new cap solved the issue, the o-ring was missing, thx to the last mechanic who lost or replaced with wrong cap. UGGH!
I just had the whole water pump pulley assembly fall off while driving the boat. I hammered the pulley back into the pump housing but there is about 1/4” of play in the pulley. It wiggles in and out of the housing. Is this normal or do I need a whole new water pump assembly?
Sorry, but I would, change the pump.
@@OnboardWithEddie thanks for responding. Your videos have saved me hundreds of dollars and really help me learn a lot about boats
Currently having an issue with a brovo 3, 5ltr mpi new impeller,thermostat,new water circulation pump still not cooling running in a water butt I’m really scratching my head on this one
Inside on the Transom. on the gamble housing with a water comes in. There’s a plastic housing that gets clogged with built up salt deposits. It may be that. It is very common. Good luck
@@OnboardWithEddie thanks I will have a good look I did message you on Insta
Hello sir, How R U, thank you for what you providing to us as good information to help as, sir I want to aske you question please, can you provide the web link for the replacement kit for the impeller please? thank you
I got one this year on Amazon. 12118 pump cover w/impeller kit $100.
What is the replacement cover kit number
What is the interval that you change this, hours, seasons etc?
Manual recommends 100 hours or 3 years
Would love to know part numbers if you could .. you do great work I’m learning so much .. btw the ratchet sounds hurt my ears 🥴
I agree. Need a part number.
use a ratchet tie to compress the impeller
The part number is. 862776A01 put it in Google search it will come right up. Sorry for the delay I had Covid.
EDDIE, please send me the part number for the 6.2 impellar kit with the plastic rear housing, mickey seal and stainless backing plate in your video! Thank you!
Hey Bill. Sorry for the delay. I didn’t have the part number, On me. The Housing cover part# CUR-IMPIR 862776A01. Good luck. Thank you for your support🤙
@@OnboardWithEddie That part number is for the OEM brass kit. The plastic housing as seen in the video must be a different part number. Is it OEM or after market???
Eddie love your videos excellent detail I need this kit but can't find this part #QSL 862776A1 anywhere online is there a site you recommend buying parts from or a different # been ordering everything online given the pandemic.Really appreciate any help Thanks!!
Joe Rutigliano hey Joe thank you for your support. I got it from a local marine store, on Long Island. Called Marine Mate. Give them a call 631 226-6202. Good luck. And stay safe
@@OnboardWithEddie Thanks Eddie