Eddie here's nice trick for you...take those OE bolts to a hardware store or HD, whatever, buy 2 bolts that are the same thread pitch but about 1" longer. Cut the heads off and cut a groove in the stub that's left. The groove is for a screwdriver.... Now you have two studs that you can thread in the head that make it easier to slide on the gasket and manifold and keeps everything lined up. Now thread these studs in to the first and last bolt holes. Slide on your gasket. Slide the manifold over the studs you just made. Thread in the rest of the bolts. Then use a screwdriver in the slot you made in the studs to remove them and install the last 2 bolts. The same trick can be use to line up the risers and elbows to keep the gaskets all lined up. Two longer bolts with the heads cut off and the slot cut in the stub, same idea. Much easier this way. PS I seem to average about 5-7 years on exhaust replacements here in Long Island salt water. Yours actually looked pretty good still!
Thanks Eddie. I am glad there are people like you who are willing to take the time to produce quality videos for the DIY crowd. You always make it look easy.
Finally, a video that ACTUALLY shows you how to do it. I'm pretty harsh in my comments on the videos that don't show you squat but they talk a lot, so I saying THIS video is first rate. So I subscribed and liked. By the way , it appears to be a pain in the ass and expensive. The moral of the story is use closed cooling for the manifold and a dry riser wrapped in insulation with a sea water injection into the hose only. (By the way, technically the riser is also called the elbow and what you are calling the riser is actually the spacer. We both agree what the part called the manifold is.)
Ordered parts for my Skipjack, got lazy, called a shop to install, they're booked til October. Watched your video once through and immediately had the confidence to get the job done. Thanks for saving me some money! Great detail, especially the torque specs. Thanks again!
Great video. I did this job on my 350 Mag for an overtemp condition. Manifolds and risers where in bad bad shape so I replaced manifolds, spacers and risers, I also installed new bolts and fittings. I used a couple of the manifold bolts as guides to help slide and hold gasket and manifold in place while installing the two inner bolts. I just hacksawed the heads of the old bolts to make the guides. Worked like a champ! Again, great video.
Fantastic Video!! I’m mechanically inclined, but don’t do it for a living or vocation. But this video was so clear, thorough and step-by-step, that I’m 110% sure I can knock it out in a day! I will be recommending it to some friends.
Great video, helped me a lot. Especially cleaning riser surfaces with a flat sander was a neat idea. Only thing I added was to spray the sanded surfaces with paint after to prevent rusting (after first wiping with acetone). Also, since I had an extra riser joint and all the surfaces needed sanding, I was afraid the total removed was so much the attaching bolts would become too long and bottom out in the holes which the service manual warned about, so I filed a bit off the bolts as well (first put on a nut to unscrew later, and thereby 'groove' the thread end) From the service manual (5.0-5.7-6.2--MerCruiser-2001-2006): Measure the surface flatness of all gasket surfaces on the manifold, elbow, and riser. Maximum overall difference: 0.07mm (0.003 in) NOTE: The maximum material that can be removed is 0.25 mm (0.010 in.). When torquing the attaching bolts, ensure that they are not contacting the bottom of the threaded hole in the manifold.
Great video Eddie. Thanks for putting this content out! I wish I would have watched this before I replaced my manifold gasket... As an additional point for others, the books do say to start with the center bolts when torquing the manifold on then move fore/aft. Riser bolts do in a cross pattern (as Eddie demonstrated). Thanks again Eddie!
Hey Eddie Watched your Videos from 11 years ago when I bought my boat. You went MIA for a little while... Real glad to see you back!!! Thanks for doing these videos for us!!! BTW anyone ever tell you .... you look a little like Sebastian Manascalco
I watched it twice and learned more the second time. Fan F-in Tastic video. I subscribed. I am watching others. I have a single 5.0 so configurations are the same and I need that. I am s former Long Islander & got a kick knowing a guy knew his stuff.
Sorry to bother you again, I don't know it you have done this already, but I would love it if you could do a video on doing pre Checks on your boat and engine before setting off . I ask this so I can get comfortable with my rinker 🙏👍
Thanks Eddie, my 1989 mercruiser 5.7L is frozen after sitting for two years, long story. This video is going to be crucial as I need to get the spark plugs out and inspected before I attempt to break it free with a breaker bar, I'll most likely soak the cylinders with some kind of lubricant for a couple days first. It'd be almost impossible to attempt this without removing the manifold first, thanks again.
Eddie, you really make boat maintenance interesting. This video was very informative. The only thing I suggest is when using different products, please show us the can/cantainer so we can usw the same product. You used the "Brown Glue" bur never showed us the product. Brown Glue isn't very helpful when we are ordering product to complete similar to this. I watch your videos and learn a lot to care for my Sea Ray 5.7 Bravo 3. Thanks for the great work.
Thanks for the video Eddie, gonna come in handy for doing the risers and manifolds on my Crusader 454's, not the exact same parts, but I'm sure most of the concepts are the same.
Thanks for the video Eddie. Do you recommend steel or fiber gaskets for the manifold to engine block surface? I ordered a new set of risers/manifolds for my freshwater ski boat, which I'll be using in freshwater. It has an Indmar 5.7L. My set came with fiber gaskets, but I am considering upgrading to GM steel type gaskets. Seem like they would seal more reliably, but would I need to be concerned that they would rust eventually vs. the fiber option? Thanks!
Hi eddie that was a good video . I have a question for you cause i keep my boat in the water like you what kind and brand of antifouling paint you use in your props ?
Excellent video Eddie. I have always boated in the western basin of Lake Erie. Changing manifolds and Risers is not common around here. Could you have cleaned and reused them? In 2017 I took off my Risers to replace my back-flow flapper valves and the Risers appeared clean. The reason I replaced my flapper valves was because I found part of one in the lower half of my Mercruiser outdrive Alpha One Gen 2 when I split the case for impeller replacement. I recommend replacing them as well they are made pretty cheaply and at that point easy to replace.
Great video. Very detailed! Do have a question as I have a similar symptom of overheating at idle, at 1000+ RPM, perfect temp. New Sea Water pump (watched that video too!!) and checked flow with a clear hose. All seems good. What led you to determine it was time manifolds and risers based on the overheating at idle? About ready to pull them off and inspect but hate to spend the $$ on the gaskets if not the issue. Merc OEM manifolds and risers probably 5-6 yrs old. Salt water but stored out of the water on my lift here on the east coast of FL. Thanks again!
Cheers Eddie, I'm doing my risers and manifolds for my 6.2lt on Saturday, I'm no mechanic so i'll be definetly reffering to this vid, Thanks mate, from Western Australia!
Thanks Eddie. Been a long time subscriber. I'm tackling this myself. Of course I just winterized her (been using your method for 7 seasons now) and she's all buttoned up so I have a question. What size risers are on your manifolds? Mine are rusted and shot but are exactly the same.
Great information. I have a question. I don't know why that square box looking thing on top of the manifold on the top there are four 9/16th. Bolts. Mine has a 8 or 9 inch threaded stud. How can I get them out and replace it with a 9/19 bolt???
Okay...So I got the elbow and manifold off. Things are going pretty well. I am replacing them both but I can't seem to get the boot off the elbow. Things are pretty rusted up. I have tapped in gently but do not wat to crack the metal in between rubber. Any ideas?
Is it possible to remove the elbow and riser together with the bolts in but loose. I have a clearance issue on a crownline 252 ex with a 350 mag mpi. I do not have enough clearance to pull the bolts completely out.
nice video ! great instruction - one thing though - dont bounce the torque wrench like u are doing - everytime u do that your turning the bolt a little everytime - once it clicks stop - to check that u have not lost torque down the road , just lower the wrench setting 10 if it moves then you know u lost torque - if it clicks your setting it probly set
@steve p he has confidence...The click is first stop..another click...fine..a good wrench will not overtighten if u hit two or three clicks..and..he has many vids..got tools and guns to use them...Your videos??..tools??..and guns?? I think your jealous, tooless...and gunless...troll much?
Hello Eddie, I congratulate you for your videos, they are very useful and educational. I want to consult you...: I have a boat with a Mercruiser 350 MPI Mag Bravo 3 engine, my problem is that after 3,000 revolutions the engine overheats and the alarm sounds, making it impossible to navigate fast. I have already renewed the elements of the water pump, the temperature sensors and the thermostat. please suggest me some solution Thank you
Thank you for the video. Question for you, when putting the water jacket onto the manifold there is a plastic fitting that is already on there. I am replacing the plastic fitting but i am unable to get it on as i cannot get over the lip. do you have any recommendations? Thanks
Hey Eddie thanks for your videos. Do you have one of removing a 5.7 mercruiser from a boat with an I.O. I have to change the out drive oil fitting on the inside of the transom along the gasket on the raw water inlet in the transom assembly.
Another excellent video Eddie. My mechanical prowess is fairly basic but I am willing to tackle this job now that you have explained it so well. But I have one newbie question: my boat with twin 5.7L VP’s is moored so any extra steps when doing this job? In particular I would prefer not to sink the boat when removing hoses.
The manifold should be above your waterline. You may have some Water come out on the bottom hose. Just keep an eye on that one. Thanks for your support
how you doing Eddie my name is Ken I got an 07 Bayliner 285 with the 350 mag yeah I'll drive and the gimbal housing we're totally oxidized lady left it in the saltwater for over a year with no zincs I have a new outdrive and gimbal housing with the 350 mag and want to install it do I have to remove the engine or can I do it without moving the motor
I'd have rigged up a grantry spanning the engine box, padded on the ends of course to protect the gelcoat, and used some rope and the bolts from the riser to hold the manifold once i took out those boats.
Eddie, can you please provide Mercruiser part numbers for this job including the brown mud glue and the whiz wheel. Thank you, and please keep up the awesome videos.
Another great DIY. Question ? Is there a way to know when these items need to be replaced vs's replacing the impeller? I think both would be a symptom of over heating? Do you have a vid on changing the impeller if that is needed as well? Thx Eddie
Great videos Eddie! In Rhode Island..factory manifolds last 4-7 years avg ..the junk aftermarket ones even less..I've seen 3 years and they fail! Buy factory only. The impeller should be changed out yearly that way its unlikely its the impeller during an overheat....if the manifolds are getting hot..especially one side way more than the other..then its typically a sign that rust bubbles are blocking up the passages and rust flakes can also clog the passages completely. Overheating can also possibly be caused by clogged intake passages from growth inside the outdrive or a sticky thermostat. You can get "some" idea of the condition of the manifolds by removing the riser and inspecting inside the passages. Also hose flush the riser passage an see how much scale comes out. Just like a water heater in your house..if you are 8 years old or more..you are on borrowed time.
oceanbreeze7777 But is your advise on saltwater boats or lake water? I think I’m having this issue with my little 3L Merc but don’t know if this is a salt/rust issue. Mine is lake water only.
HI mate, I have a 2003 4.3 220 mercruiser Serial number Im in Sydney Australia if that makes a difference. I m having the exactly the same symptoms as you in this video. I was hoping you might be able to direct me to buying the correct risers and manifolds. Nipples, water jackets and merc glue also if you can. I like your straight forward approach. Many thanks Michael
@@michaelmcnamara373 I'm no expert, but had the same problem. Check your belt tension to your water pump. Fixed my problem until I had to do this manifold job. Best of luck!
If you have Pit cocks on the bottom of the manifold. You could. If you want to try. But a lot of times it’s clogged up. so you’ll have to poke it with like a scribe. But you don’t have to
Anybody running in salt water especially should be using anti seize grease on all bolts and wouldn't hurt to use for fresh water too. Also, if your motor is bogging down, loss of power, and/or some sort of timing issue, check spark plugs. Any rust on bad plug will be a bad manifold and will not always be a over heating issue. Replaced manifold right away before you bend a rod or something worse.
Hey Joey. There is no hose from the gimbal housing to the drive. There is a seal in between them. There is a hose from the gimbal housing to the transom. Hope that helps. Have a happy holiday. And thank you for your support
Eddie why on your last gasket I believe its the elbow joint gasket 1 hole is smaller than the other. Whereas the first gasket has 2 holes of equal size? Luv ur work buddy!
Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be clean and free of all marks and deep scratches, or water and exhaust leaks may result. If you put everything together without cleaning all the paint off the mating surface it can leak,
May I ask you to specify and write down the instruments and sizes you need to do this job ( I mean the ratches en screwdrivers) I really appreciate any help you can provide.
I noticed the new risers and new manifolds both seemed to have black paint on the matting surfaces. Should that paint be sanded off to ensure a tight seal or does it not matter?
Hey Eddie..question. What was the purpose of this job? just pure maintenance? or were you getting the engine to overheat at high speed? I am having an overheat engine ONLY AT HIGH SPEED and I heard that it could be the manifolds being rusty and sea water not passing thru it to cool the engine. of course I am going to try to change the impeller first. Can you tell me the reason you did this job? thank you.
@@OnboardWithEddie THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY.....SO, IN MY CASE , IN YOUR OPINION , WHERE I OVERHEAT ONLY AT HIGH SPEED, DO YOU THINK ITS THE MANIFOLDS AND RISERS AND ELBOWS OR DO YOU THINK ITS MY WATER PUMP IMPELLER...I RECALL BUMPING INTO SAND AND IF SAND GOT SUCKED IN DO YOU THINK THE IMPELLER GOT DAMAGED?
Thanx for the good information A question How do you know that you have to change the manifold? Is it mandatary to be changed after years? In case of that how many years? What is the indication to change it ?
From any Merc dealer. Which is pretty much any marina. Or on line. Even Amazon. depending on what you’re looking for. Hope that helps you. And thank you for your support
Eddie here's nice trick for you...take those OE bolts to a hardware store or HD, whatever, buy 2 bolts that are the same thread pitch but about 1" longer. Cut the heads off and cut a groove in the stub that's left. The groove is for a screwdriver.... Now you have two studs that you can thread in the head that make it easier to slide on the gasket and manifold and keeps everything lined up. Now thread these studs in to the first and last bolt holes. Slide on your gasket. Slide the manifold over the studs you just made. Thread in the rest of the bolts. Then use a screwdriver in the slot you made in the studs to remove them and install the last 2 bolts.
The same trick can be use to line up the risers and elbows to keep the gaskets all lined up. Two longer bolts with the heads cut off and the slot cut in the stub, same idea. Much easier this way.
PS I seem to average about 5-7 years on exhaust replacements here in Long Island salt water. Yours actually looked pretty good still!
Thanks Eddie. I am glad there are people like you who are willing to take the time to produce quality videos for the DIY crowd. You always make it look easy.
Thanks a lot for posting this. You made my day a lot easier. 👊
Finally, a video that ACTUALLY shows you how to do it. I'm pretty harsh in my comments on the videos that don't show you squat but they talk a lot, so I saying THIS video is first rate. So I subscribed and liked. By the way , it appears to be a pain in the ass and expensive. The moral of the story is use closed cooling for the manifold and a dry riser wrapped in insulation with a sea water injection into the hose only. (By the way, technically the riser is also called the elbow and what you are calling the riser is actually the spacer. We both agree what the part called the manifold is.)
Another great video Eddie!!! so glad you came back!!!
Ordered parts for my Skipjack, got lazy, called a shop to install, they're booked til October. Watched your video once through and immediately had the confidence to get the job done. Thanks for saving me some money! Great detail, especially the torque specs. Thanks again!
Your welcome. And thank you for your support🤙
Thanks Eddie, will definitely be referring back to this video when I have work on merc 5.0. Thanks again!
I have always loved how informative and detailed your videos are Eddie. Thanks for your efforts and for continuing to make them!
djzurowski Thank you so much for your support🤙
Great video. I did this job on my 350 Mag for an overtemp condition. Manifolds and risers where in bad bad shape so I replaced manifolds, spacers and risers, I also installed new bolts and fittings. I used a couple of the manifold bolts as guides to help slide and hold gasket and manifold in place while installing the two inner bolts. I just hacksawed the heads of the old bolts to make the guides. Worked like a champ! Again, great video.
Great video! We make our set pins with the riser bolts from old manifolds. Cut off the flange and cut a slot to use with a flat head. It works great!
Fantastic Video!! I’m mechanically inclined, but don’t do it for a living or vocation. But this video was so clear, thorough and step-by-step, that I’m 110% sure I can knock it out in a day!
I will be recommending it to some friends.
I’m happy it’s help you. Thank you so much.
Great video, helped me a lot. Especially cleaning riser surfaces with a flat sander was a neat idea. Only thing I added was to spray the sanded surfaces with paint after to prevent rusting (after first wiping with acetone).
Also, since I had an extra riser joint and all the surfaces needed sanding, I was afraid the total removed was so much the attaching bolts would become too long and bottom out in the holes which the service manual warned about, so I filed a bit off the bolts as well (first put on a nut to unscrew later, and thereby 'groove' the thread end)
From the service manual (5.0-5.7-6.2--MerCruiser-2001-2006):
Measure the surface flatness of all gasket surfaces on the manifold, elbow, and riser. Maximum overall difference: 0.07mm (0.003 in)
NOTE: The maximum material that can be removed is 0.25 mm (0.010 in.). When torquing the attaching bolts, ensure that they are not contacting the bottom of the threaded hole in the manifold.
Great video Eddie. Thanks for putting this content out! I wish I would have watched this before I replaced my manifold gasket... As an additional point for others, the books do say to start with the center bolts when torquing the manifold on then move fore/aft. Riser bolts do in a cross pattern (as Eddie demonstrated). Thanks again Eddie!
Happy to help out. And thank you for your support
you're a legend Eddie
Thanks lol 🤙⚓️
Hey Eddie
Watched your Videos from 11 years ago when I bought my boat. You went MIA for a little while... Real glad to see you back!!!
Thanks for doing these videos for us!!!
BTW anyone ever tell you .... you look a little like Sebastian Manascalco
Lol no I haven’t heard that one yet. But thank. And thanks for watching the videos. And your support
I watched it twice and learned more the second time. Fan F-in Tastic video. I subscribed. I am watching others. I have a single 5.0 so configurations are the same and I need that. I am s former Long Islander & got a kick knowing a guy knew his stuff.
Thank you support Jim. I hope the videos help you. 🤙⚓️
Thanks for the lesson!
cheers Eddie top man really helpful
Thank you for all your effort!
Excellent instruction on how to do it . I ll use this in my boat. You got a new subscriber. 👍👍
Very well done going man
Eddie, yet another brilliant video
I'm a novice to boat engines, I'm ok with my 1962 triumph spitfire, but boat engines wow bit scary 👍
Sorry to bother you again, I don't know it you have done this already, but I would love it if you could do a video on doing pre Checks on your boat and engine before setting off . I ask this so I can get comfortable with my rinker 🙏👍
Thank you for making this video
Happy to help out. Thank you for your support. 🤙⚓️
Thank you for the video, I will do it in my boat in Brazil!
Great video! Very informative, educational, and well done. Thank you for sharing the video!
I’m happy to hear it’s helping you out. Thank you for your support. 🤙⚓️
Wow, wow, wow, what kick=ass job! Definitely made it easier than what looks like! thanks for taking the time!
I’m glad everything worked out for you. Thank you for your support.⚓️🤙
Thanks Eddie, my 1989 mercruiser 5.7L is frozen after sitting for two years, long story. This video is going to be crucial as I need to get the spark plugs out and inspected before I attempt to break it free with a breaker bar, I'll most likely soak the cylinders with some kind of lubricant for a couple days first. It'd be almost impossible to attempt this without removing the manifold first, thanks again.
Your welcome Ben. And good luck.
Excellent video, thank you very much.
outstanding video ..first time and very helpful..Sean from West Islip !!
Happy to help out. And thank you for your support.🤙⚓️
Eddie, you really make boat maintenance interesting. This video was very informative. The only thing I suggest is when using different products, please show us the can/cantainer so we can usw the same product. You used the "Brown Glue" bur never showed us the product. Brown Glue isn't very helpful when we are ordering product to complete similar to this. I watch your videos and learn a lot to care for my Sea Ray 5.7 Bravo 3. Thanks for the great work.
I will Keep that in mind. Going forward. thank you for your advice. 🤙⚓️
Thanks for the video Eddie, gonna come in handy for doing the risers and manifolds on my Crusader 454's, not the exact same parts, but I'm sure most of the concepts are the same.
very nice and educational video...thank you
Thanks Eddie ❤❤❤
Excellent Video!
Thank you very much! Thank you for your support 🤙⚓
great video im subbed!
Thanks for the video Eddie. Do you recommend steel or fiber gaskets for the manifold to engine block surface? I ordered a new set of risers/manifolds for my freshwater ski boat, which I'll be using in freshwater. It has an Indmar 5.7L. My set came with fiber gaskets, but I am considering upgrading to GM steel type gaskets. Seem like they would seal more reliably, but would I need to be concerned that they would rust eventually vs. the fiber option? Thanks!
Hi eddie that was a good video . I have a question for you cause i keep my boat in the water like you what kind and brand of antifouling paint you use in your props ?
Excellent video Eddie. I have always boated in the western basin of Lake Erie. Changing manifolds and Risers is not common around here. Could you have cleaned and reused them? In 2017 I took off my Risers to replace my back-flow flapper valves and the Risers appeared clean. The reason I replaced my flapper valves was because I found part of one in the lower half of my Mercruiser outdrive Alpha One Gen 2 when I split the case for impeller replacement. I recommend replacing them as well they are made pretty cheaply and at that point easy to replace.
Scotch Brite pads work well at removing old gaskets without harming the metal if you don't have a wiz wheel
Eddie, do you need to put some Permatex or other gasket sealant on manifold before installing with the gasket?
Awesome. Thanks!
Great video. Very detailed! Do have a question as I have a similar symptom of overheating at idle, at 1000+ RPM, perfect temp. New Sea Water pump (watched that video too!!) and checked flow with a clear hose. All seems good. What led you to determine it was time manifolds and risers based on the overheating at idle? About ready to pull them off and inspect but hate to spend the $$ on the gaskets if not the issue. Merc OEM manifolds and risers probably 5-6 yrs old. Salt water but stored out of the water on my lift here on the east coast of FL. Thanks again!
Hi Eddie, what parts do I need to take off to replace a starter?
I'm digging the torque wrench skills
Cheers Eddie, I'm doing my risers and manifolds for my 6.2lt on Saturday, I'm no mechanic so i'll be definetly reffering to this vid, Thanks mate, from Western Australia!
No problem. Good luck. And thank you for your support. 🤙
Thanks Eddie. Been a long time subscriber. I'm tackling this myself. Of course I just winterized her (been using your method for 7 seasons now) and she's all buttoned up so I have a question. What size risers are on your manifolds? Mine are rusted and shot but are exactly the same.
Hey Eddie, did you replace the exhaust flappers when you did the risers?
Superb, thank you
Thank you for your support
Great information. I have a question. I don't know why that square box looking thing on top of the manifold on the top there are four 9/16th. Bolts. Mine has a 8 or 9 inch threaded stud. How can I get them out and replace it with a 9/19 bolt???
Question Eddie. couldn't you sand blast those old parts to remove the rust and corrosion instead of buying new ?
Okay...So I got the elbow and manifold off. Things are going pretty well. I am replacing them both but I can't seem to get the boot off the elbow. Things are pretty rusted up. I have tapped in gently but do not wat to crack the metal in between rubber. Any ideas?
Is it possible to remove the elbow and riser together with the bolts in but loose. I have a clearance issue on a crownline 252 ex with a 350 mag mpi. I do not have enough clearance to pull the bolts completely out.
Really nice video thank you
Thank you. And thank you for your support
thank you so much AMIGO!!!
Thank you 🤙⚓️
Great video. This is an example of how how to videos should be done. No extra words or stupid music
How much did you clean the motorblock after removing the old manifold? Besides remove the gasket?
nice video ! great instruction - one thing though - dont bounce the torque wrench like u are doing - everytime u do that your turning the bolt a little everytime - once it clicks stop - to check that u have not lost torque down the road , just lower the wrench setting 10 if it moves then you know u lost torque - if it clicks your setting it probly set
Yikes...this guy has a handle on the torque wrench...u may need some coaching tho...
@@jimbradley727 he does not have confidence in his tools - 1 click of the torque is good as long as its dialed in .
@steve p he has confidence...The click is first stop..another click...fine..a good wrench will not overtighten if u hit two or three clicks..and..he has many vids..got tools and guns to use them...Your videos??..tools??..and guns??
I think your jealous, tooless...and gunless...troll much?
Is it necessary to torque the riser bolts?
Sir thanks so much you help me understand this a lot
Happy to help out. thank you for your support
LEGEND!
Thank you buddy 🤙⚓️
Hello Eddie, I congratulate you for your videos, they are very useful and educational.
I want to consult you...: I have a boat with a Mercruiser 350 MPI Mag Bravo 3 engine, my problem is that after 3,000 revolutions the engine overheats and the alarm sounds, making it impossible to navigate fast.
I have already renewed the elements of the water pump, the temperature sensors and the thermostat.
please suggest me some solution
Thank you
Thank you for the video. Question for you, when putting the water jacket onto the manifold there is a plastic fitting that is already on there. I am replacing the plastic fitting but i am unable to get it on as i cannot get over the lip. do you have any recommendations? Thanks
Sorry not really sure what your talking about. Do you have a picture?
Hey Eddie thanks for your videos. Do you have one of removing a 5.7 mercruiser from a boat with an I.O. I have to change the out drive oil fitting on the inside of the transom along the gasket on the raw water inlet in the transom assembly.
Hey Rob. Sorry ,I haven’t. made that video just yet. Good luck. And have a happy holiday. Thank you for your support
@@OnboardWithEddie thanks for your reply. Your videos are really helpful, thank you.
7pm fire alarm for our first responders hooorahhhh!! Long Island here hahaha
Another excellent video Eddie. My mechanical prowess is fairly basic but I am willing to tackle this job now that you have explained it so well. But I have one newbie question: my boat with twin 5.7L VP’s is moored so any extra steps when doing this job? In particular I would prefer not to sink the boat when removing hoses.
The manifold should be above your waterline. You may have some Water come out on the bottom hose. Just keep an eye on that one. Thanks for your support
Thanks for that quick reply. One more question if I may. Stainless steel risers. Thumbs up or down?
how you doing Eddie my name is Ken I got an 07 Bayliner 285 with the 350 mag yeah I'll drive and the gimbal housing we're totally oxidized lady left it in the saltwater for over a year with no zincs I have a new outdrive and gimbal housing with the 350 mag and want to install it do I have to remove the engine or can I do it without moving the motor
I'd have rigged up a grantry spanning the engine box, padded on the ends of course to protect the gelcoat, and used some rope and the bolts from the riser to hold the manifold once i took out those boats.
Good video always take your plugs off frist cause how heavy heavy the manifolds are easy to break your plugs right off
anyone have a line on cheap Merc 260 marine parts? need risers, Y elbows
Eddie, can you please provide Mercruiser part numbers for this job including the brown mud glue and the whiz wheel. Thank you, and please keep up the awesome videos.
Eddie, where do you purchase your components and parts from?
What's up Eddie? I like your boat repair video, they're very good. What is the name of the adhesive you are using on the exhaust manifold?
Quicksilver Perfect seal. Part number 92-34227Q02. And thank you for your support. stay safe
Another great DIY. Question ? Is there a way to know when these items need to be replaced vs's replacing the impeller? I think both would be a symptom of over heating? Do you have a vid on changing the impeller if that is needed as well? Thx Eddie
Great videos Eddie! In Rhode Island..factory manifolds last 4-7 years avg ..the junk aftermarket ones even less..I've seen 3 years and they fail! Buy factory only. The impeller should be changed out yearly that way its unlikely its the impeller during an overheat....if the manifolds are getting hot..especially one side way more than the other..then its typically a sign that rust bubbles are blocking up the passages and rust flakes can also clog the passages completely. Overheating can also possibly be caused by clogged intake passages from growth inside the outdrive or a sticky thermostat. You can get "some" idea of the condition of the manifolds by removing the riser and inspecting inside the passages. Also hose flush the riser passage an see how much scale comes out. Just like a water heater in your house..if you are 8 years old or more..you are on borrowed time.
oceanbreeze7777 But is your advise on saltwater boats or lake water? I think I’m having this issue with my little 3L Merc but don’t know if this is a salt/rust issue. Mine is lake water only.
Can you do this while boat is in the water?
HI mate, I have a 2003 4.3 220 mercruiser
Serial number
Im in Sydney Australia if that makes a difference.
I m having the exactly the same symptoms as you in this video.
I was hoping you might be able to direct me to buying the correct risers and manifolds. Nipples, water jackets and merc glue also if you can.
I like your straight forward approach.
Many thanks
Michael
Thanks Eddie, appreciate the video. My overheat issue is just the opposite....fine at idle/low rpm's but under load it overheats. any thoughts? thanks
Hey Timothy ever figure out what was wrong? I’m having same symptoms fine at idle and alarms at high speed. Let me know.
@@michaelmcnamara373 I'm no expert, but had the same problem. Check your belt tension to your water pump. Fixed my problem until I had to do this manifold job. Best of luck!
@@michaelmcnamara373 yes Mike, new manifolds, elbow and risers.
Eddie, did you have to drain anything prior to pulling the risers & manifold?
If you have Pit cocks on the bottom of the manifold. You could. If you want to try. But a lot of times it’s clogged up. so you’ll have to poke it with like a scribe. But you don’t have to
First time I did this, it only took me. The entire winter season.
What grade of sandpaper was used?
Could I sand blast the riser?
Anybody running in salt water especially should be using anti seize grease on all bolts and wouldn't hurt to use for fresh water too. Also, if your motor is bogging down, loss of power, and/or some sort of timing issue, check spark plugs. Any rust on bad plug will be a bad manifold and will not always be a over heating issue. Replaced manifold right away before you bend a rod or something worse.
Eddie is there a water intake hose on a bravo 3 that the drive has to come off
Hey Joey. There is no hose from the gimbal housing to the drive. There is a seal in between them. There is a hose from the gimbal housing to the transom. Hope that helps. Have a happy holiday. And thank you for your support
th-cam.com/video/f9Fke1D464k/w-d-xo.html this my help you
Eddie why on your last gasket I believe its the elbow joint gasket 1 hole is smaller than the other. Whereas the first gasket has 2 holes of equal size? Luv ur work buddy!
How can I reach you about a boat situation and advice?
Inspect all parts carefully. Machined surfaces must be clean and free of all marks and
deep scratches, or water and exhaust leaks may result. If you put everything together without cleaning all the paint off the mating surface it can leak,
Which grit sand paper weight did you use to prepare the riser surface for the riser?
I used 120 grit. Hope thank helps. Happy holidays.
@@OnboardWithEddie thanks alot!!
The way I look at it is if you have a good bilge pump, bellows aren’t really that important.
The old parts we not reusable?
May I ask you to specify and write down the instruments and sizes you need to do this job ( I mean the ratches en screwdrivers)
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Nice vid wish it included checking or replacing the exhaust flaps.
Thank you for watching the videos. and your support. Next time.
Sirens blow 12 noon on a Sunday as a maintenance procedure. Take heed if it blows any other time or day as emergency.....
I noticed the new risers and new manifolds both seemed to have black paint on the matting surfaces. Should that paint be sanded off to ensure a tight seal or does it not matter?
Hey Eddie..question. What was the purpose of this job? just pure maintenance? or were you getting the engine to overheat at high speed? I am having an overheat engine ONLY AT HIGH SPEED and I heard that it could be the manifolds being rusty and sea water not passing thru it to cool the engine. of course I am going to try to change the impeller first. Can you tell me the reason you did this job? thank you.
The problem I had was, At an idol, my temperature was going up to high. And came down when is went faster.
@@OnboardWithEddie THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY.....SO, IN MY CASE , IN YOUR OPINION , WHERE I OVERHEAT ONLY AT HIGH SPEED, DO YOU THINK ITS THE MANIFOLDS AND RISERS AND ELBOWS OR DO YOU THINK ITS MY WATER PUMP IMPELLER...I RECALL BUMPING INTO SAND AND IF SAND GOT SUCKED IN DO YOU THINK THE IMPELLER GOT DAMAGED?
Good lord please tell me this isn’t a yearly maintenance project ??? Awesome video.
Lol no it’s not. Between five and seven years. 🤙⚓️
Thanx for the good information
A question
How do you know that you have to change the manifold?
Is it mandatary to be changed after years? In case of that how many years?
What is the indication to change it ?
I received the notice that Mercruiser recomend to exchange it every five years, my motor has 15 years i ma doing it now for the first time.
And thanks for a great video👍😁
Made me laugh with the siren comment, thanks!
The risers that were changed do you know how many years old they were.
Electrical Concepts. about 8 years
I suspend the mans from a crane/hoist. I’ve done lots of them and they can be painful to do
Where do you buy your merc parts?
From any Merc dealer. Which is pretty much any marina. Or on line. Even Amazon. depending on what you’re looking for. Hope that helps you. And thank you for your support