You presented the True vs. Apparent wind speed and angle concept first, then mentioned the fact that wind speed tends to be higher as you go up the mast. This is the opposite way I was taught and your choice to present the more complicated portion first "made the light turn on" better. Love your school. The sound quality issue with the captain's voice can be corrected by using the better Shure brand lapel mics or post processing with a 200Hz or so high pass filter to reduce the contribution from the chest. This is mainly a problem with men's vocal range. The Shure mics are the better way because the built-in high pass filter also reduces mechanical wind distortion in the diaphragm. The MVL model is a good example. If you use it in higher winds, purchase the optional Rycote Mini Windjammer "furry" wind screen.
Excellent video! Regarding your last point about not using the traveler to de-power the mainsail in strong wind, do you mean the better option is to ease the mainsheet and/or simply turn up wind?
My first response would be to turn up wind and bring the boat back up on her feet. If I were having consistent trouble, then resetting the mainsheet to spill more of the wind at the top of the sail would be an option, but then you have to watch for leech flutter. Depending on your reefing system, a consistent problem with being over-canvased and heeled over excessively would be to put a reef in the main.
@@s.mummert7877 I was advised to overcome the novice impulse to head up in sustained gusts and instead to fall off to a reach. Drag is reduced as more of the lift produced by the sail drives the boat forward instead of sideways, which causes heeling. As wind speed increases, we also move the traveler to windward and ease the main proportionately. This allows us to spill air from the top of the sail and lowers the center of effort, also reducing heel.
@@daveopincarne3718 Thanks for your input. I would agree - in fact, did agree - that changing the angle of attack is the preferred response to "sustained gusts." In addition, I would also be looking seriously at reefing down, which also spills air over the top of the sail and lowers the center of effort. However, the original question dealt with my position that "dumping" the traveler to leeward in a gust is not a good idea on a cruising boat. Dropping the traveler in a gust may work on a small boat, but the possibility of getting something tangled or broken increases as the size of the system increases. In the case of an occasional or an unexpected strong gust, turning upwind to feather the main would not be a "novice impulse." It would allow you to maintain control of the boat when it is momentarily overpowered. I hope that clarifies my comments.
@@s.mummert7877 That does clarify your response. Based on the wording, I was uncertain if we were discussing an instantaneous response to a gust or a more sustained increase and response. I agree that heading up is a good initial response. I see what you're saying about not using the traveler but that's not something I'd do anyway. Instead I'd ease the mainsheet, which seems more controlled. In fact, all my fiddle blocks have been set up to allow for quick release in this scenario. For me this is intuitive because I view the traveler primarily as a means of controlling twist. For someone who sees it as a primary means of controlling the angle of attack, I can see where their first instinct would be to release it. Of course they work in combination, but your mental model will make one more intuitive than the other. And that's where my comment about a novice response comes in. My instinct is to head up, but with mentoring, I've learned to fall off with one hand and ease the sheet with the other to adjust for the new point of sail. At first I had to really think about it and convince myself that it was the right tactic, but over time it has become a more ingrained response and a flapping leach sets me on edge. Great explanation of the concept BTW, I always get something from this channel.
The difference in wind speed from top to bottom would be minimal, so from that point of view, the traveler would not add much. However, it would still allow you to maintain positive control of the boom at all angles through the width of the traveler. If you are going to be on a reach for a long time, you can use it to ensure that the boom stays in one position.
Thanks! I'm new to sailing and the traveler was kind of puzzling me. I mean, I got WHAT it does but couldn't figure out why you'd use it. Apparently I was giving the vang too much credit. 😁
You presented the True vs. Apparent wind speed and angle concept first, then mentioned the fact that wind speed tends to be higher as you go up the mast. This is the opposite way I was taught and your choice to present the more complicated portion first "made the light turn on" better. Love your school.
The sound quality issue with the captain's voice can be corrected by using the better Shure brand lapel mics or post processing with a 200Hz or so high pass filter to reduce the contribution from the chest. This is mainly a problem with men's vocal range. The Shure mics are the better way because the built-in high pass filter also reduces mechanical wind distortion in the diaphragm. The MVL model is a good example. If you use it in higher winds, purchase the optional Rycote Mini Windjammer "furry" wind screen.
Thanks for the suggestion on the audio - trying to do "live" audio is tricky for me. I will try the filter first.
imformative as always with Maryland School of Sailing. i dream to Sail with mr Tom. thx thx thx
Thanks. This is an excellent video.
Great explanation. Thank you.
Excellent video! Regarding your last point about not using the traveler to de-power the mainsail in strong wind, do you mean the better option is to ease the mainsheet and/or simply turn up wind?
My first response would be to turn up wind and bring the boat back up on her feet. If I were having consistent trouble, then resetting the mainsheet to spill more of the wind at the top of the sail would be an option, but then you have to watch for leech flutter. Depending on your reefing system, a consistent problem with being over-canvased and heeled over excessively would be to put a reef in the main.
@@s.mummert7877 I was advised to overcome the novice impulse to head up in sustained gusts and instead to fall off to a reach. Drag is reduced as more of the lift produced by the sail drives the boat forward instead of sideways, which causes heeling.
As wind speed increases, we also move the traveler to windward and ease the main proportionately. This allows us to spill air from the top of the sail and lowers the center of effort, also reducing heel.
@@daveopincarne3718 Thanks for your input. I would agree - in fact, did agree - that changing the angle of attack is the preferred response to "sustained gusts." In addition, I would also be looking seriously at reefing down, which also spills air over the top of the sail and lowers the center of effort.
However, the original question dealt with my position that "dumping" the traveler to leeward in a gust is not a good idea on a cruising boat. Dropping the traveler in a gust may work on a small boat, but the possibility of getting something tangled or broken increases as the size of the system increases.
In the case of an occasional or an unexpected strong gust, turning upwind to feather the main would not be a "novice impulse." It would allow you to maintain control of the boat when it is momentarily overpowered.
I hope that clarifies my comments.
@@s.mummert7877 That does clarify your response. Based on the wording, I was uncertain if we were discussing an instantaneous response to a gust or a more sustained increase and response. I agree that heading up is a good initial response.
I see what you're saying about not using the traveler but that's not something I'd do anyway. Instead I'd ease the mainsheet, which seems more controlled. In fact, all my fiddle blocks have been set up to allow for quick release in this scenario. For me this is intuitive because I view the traveler primarily as a means of controlling twist. For someone who sees it as a primary means of controlling the angle of attack, I can see where their first instinct would be to release it. Of course they work in combination, but your mental model will make one more intuitive than the other. And that's where my comment about a novice response comes in. My instinct is to head up, but with mentoring, I've learned to fall off with one hand and ease the sheet with the other to adjust for the new point of sail. At first I had to really think about it and convince myself that it was the right tactic, but over time it has become a more ingrained response and a flapping leach sets me on edge.
Great explanation of the concept BTW, I always get something from this channel.
@@daveopincarne3718 You are very welcome and yes, any flap in a leech makes me cringe - it always sounds like wasted money as the sail wears out!
Thanks for the explanation. I have a 17’ catboat with a 17’ mast and gaff rigged sail. Is there nothing to be gained by using a traveler with my rig?
The difference in wind speed from top to bottom would be minimal, so from that point of view, the traveler would not add much. However, it would still allow you to maintain positive control of the boom at all angles through the width of the traveler. If you are going to be on a reach for a long time, you can use it to ensure that the boom stays in one position.
Thanks! I'm new to sailing and the traveler was kind of puzzling me. I mean, I got WHAT it does but couldn't figure out why you'd use it. Apparently I was giving the vang too much credit. 😁
Excellent explanation Frank!
AaaaaaHAAA!!!!! Im saving this. Than you!
Thanks answered some questions I've had for a while
Thanks for explaining this so easy.
An informative video, but I humbly suggest you work on your audio. It was very distracting.
Thank you for the feedback - I will work on that going forward.
@@s.mummert7877 and video quality as well. It is excruciatingly amateurish.