This didn't get enough attention during my sailing training. Had I watched this a month ago, I wouldn't have had the boom sheet break my arm during an accidental gybe. That was an effective, though definitely not the best, way to properly learn the risks of gybing, but I very much prefer your way of teaching this! Thank you for a very well presented lesson, I will go out and practice once my arm has healed.
Thank you Master! Something I would like to mention is that you are not only an excellent sailor but also a real Instructor with effective knowledge transfer.
I bought a 22ft sailboat and with absolutely no knowledge sailed from Poole Harbour South Coast England to southampton through hurst castle against the tide 12 hours sailing and experienced multiple crash gybes untill the runner broke from 1 end did not know what the hell was going on how I managed to get main sail down i just don't know I've researched and researched why and how to deal with it THIS VIDEO IS THE ONLY 1 OUT OF COUNTLESS THAT EXPLAINS PERFECTLY WHY AND HOW TO DEAL WITH AND PREVENT You are an amazing teacher I have subscribed
I love the way this is presented calmly and thoroughly, with all details explained in a simple way. I understood all the aspects of it, which is not always the case when professional sailors try to explain to less experienced ones. Thanks a lot.
Honestly, some of the best Sailing training videos on the internet, I stopped sailing 30 years ago and have forgotten so much, your videos are helping me so much! Thank You!!!! And thank you for not adding stupid music like many people do!
These instructions are excellent (as you would expect from a sailing school) for an armchair sailor learning the theory of sailing, many thanks for your videos.
Outstanding video. It really helped me understand rigging a preventer on my boat and gives me a firm understanding. Now I know why those forward turning blocks are there. As a side note when I disassembled the boom on our 30 year old boat to get the caps powder coated I discovered the forward aluminum cap was split internally at the goose neck, damage resulting from an accidental gybe sometime in the past. Had to replace the cap.
I have watched hours of sailing instructional videos over the last several days as I am contemplating the purchase of a boat. I have a friend who owns one and is willing to teach me how to sail a boat before I make my final decision as to whether or not to purchase one. I must say that of the many videos that I have watched, this one is the most organized and informative of them all. Thank you so much for your willingness to make and post your videos. I have subscribed to your channel and plan to watch the rest of them.
Just do it. I'm considering the same, I'm currently sailing on a 60' retired ocean racer, after not having sailed for 27 years. It is not all that complicated, until the weather gets grim, you should get out and sail as much as possible, and do a competent crew course, and get on boats for passages, day sailing and passage making are two very different worlds
Thank you from a guy who has always been on power boats. You explanation was complete and logical to the point a guy with no sail experience could totally comprehend your instruction. I plan to build a Wharram Cat for my next boat. so I do appreciate your class. Thank you again.
Always informative and well done videos from Maryland School of Sailing and Seamanship. Best explanation and videos I’ve seen on the use and handling of Preventers.
I'm in hotel quarantine and I felt like I was out there sailing with you. Thanks for the day out and lessons learnt today on safe gybe manoeuvres. Happy sailing! 👍
EXTREMELY thorough, I appreciate all the details and repetition. I fully understand what to do now! We had a close call with out Hunter 25 when our dog roamed into the sheet area when we were having an accidental jibe. I managed to pull our pup into the cabin before it happened but It wasn't very windy.. If it had been higher winds things could have been a lot worse.. - Chad
Congratulations on a well thought out and information presentation. This is a topic that has always confused me ........ no longer. Would love to see a similar presentation on sail trim.
Great video. Thanks. I notice at 21:56 where you demonstrated a controlled gybe with the preventer system, the preventer line was not tight as it should be per your recommendation for tightening it up with the main sheet. In particular, if the preventer was tight the only way the line could damage the stanchion is if it were intentionally allowed to do so by lengthening it under tension to continue the gybe instead of returning to the point of sale and performing a tack instead.
Thank you very much for the comprehensive video, Capitan! What would also be interesting to examine are the methods of safe jibing under gennaker, avoiding broaching etc. Thanks again
It took me time to understand that the "sheet" is not a plane, but a line. "We have a nice system..." at 25:30 - but on the opposite side of the mast, the "system" was anything but nice! Wouldn't a boom brake prevent all that? Thank you for a nice presentation!
There are no "ropes" on a boat because all the ropes have individual names according to what they do. A "sheet" is a rope/ line that attaches to the "clew" (corner) of a sail in order to control the sail. A boom break might prevent some of "all that" but boom breaks also have their advantages and disadvantages, and require skills for operation.
@@SerbanOprescu He was addressing your confusion about what a sheet is, which is usually taught well before you learn the intricacies of jibing. I too was confused by your terms, like what is a plane (outside geometry)?
@@markisfeld4046 My wording was indeed referring to geometry. Geometry does include lines and planes (as it appears you already know), and in lack of additional data I associated „sheet” (like the bed lining) with a plane. Hence when hearing the word in Roger's video, I was confused. This being said, Roger's remark about 'not called ropes" had no object, since I never used the word. Thank you for your post.
Excellent. Very glad to see you teaching the use of a preventer and an excellent method of safe gybing. Still not happy about your locking turns though. With your method of tying off to a cleat, I have seen a line under tension (for example the preventer holing the boom after an accidental gybe) start to run as the locking turn is released which caused the locking turn to lock again. I worry about fingers getting caught in the locking turn as the crew member attempts to hold it.
I suggest not releasing the preventer under tension after an accidental gybe. Rather, crank the mainsheet tight to take the load, then release the preventer. This way you always have positive control of the boom... T
That's my biggest worry. I'm scared the whole boom will fly off the boat. I don't know though, I still have to go to sailing school with the other sailors to gain confidence. Thanks for the upload. Seems like the way to do it and not get hurt.
Wonderful presentation. Thank you. I am now going to get 2 preventer lines so I have them ready and pre rigged on each side for when I'm headed downwind.
+Maryland Sailing School How do you secure /rig the bowline to the end of the boom? I believe you mentioned that the loop goes thru the clew of the mainsail? That part was not clear to me. Great video and very helpful. Thanks
+Luis Santiago Pass a line through the clew of the mainsail and around the boom, and tie a bowline to form the loop around the boom. The reason that I put the line through the clew, is to keep it in place so it does not move fore and aft along the boom. There may be other ways to accomplish this same end, but I find this to be fairly simple and workable... Tom
+Maryland School of Sailing - That makes sense and it is simple to implement and doesn't required any special gadget. Thanks for the quick reply. -Luis
+Filling The Sails ... The steps are the same, but you would need a reliable auto pilot to act as helmsman while you are doing the tasks shown in the video... MDS
Hi Ty formte great video - little remark: I’d go closer to the wind before initiating the gibe (I.e. crankin in the main sheet), prepare the preventer as shown here and then only I would steer into the gibe.
A little closer to the wind? Take another look at the wind direction in the video. If you are in any decent wind, it might make more sense to have the main reefed down more, depending on the size of the main.
Im just a newbie but I’m sure my single line system is simpler and you don’t have to leave the cockpit. The single line has a quick connect clip on each end. The line runs from a ring on the boom end, forward and past the shrouds on one side, through a sheave attached on the foredeck and back via the other side of the boat to a cleat in the cockpit. During a gybe, when the boom is sheeted hard to the centreline i release one end clip and attach the other. The loose end now becomes the cleated end and vice versa.
Excellent video, this is a really simple and highly effective and stable technique, two questions, firstly, could you not just use frictional resistance on your preventer when easing and just winch in on the sheet? And the second question relates to adjustments to the vang during and after gybing?
Very interesting. Would it be better to use two lines in rough conditions so you don't have to go forward to relead it? Also when you made the bowline around the boom, is it just loose around the boom or through the clew eye?
What is the procedure if sailing single handed? Seem you mut have Port and Star Preventer handed onto the boom. Make the change when the boom is centered.
Is there concern for damage to the boom by holding the preventer at the end of the boom and the sheet further forward? I know a boom is tough but it seems to be an unusual stress.
Sorry. Certainly not forward of the sheet. Maybe at the sheet to boom connection? Since you did not see a problem then perhaps there is none. I don't have a second nature understanding of the forces on the boom and mast. I know they are considerable and have always been cautious with heavy strains on equipment. Farm machinery and rigging of that sort. You can get dead quick with thousands of pounds on a line or chain.
+Pass Me By Yes, the sheet to boom connection is important as are all rigging connections, and they all require regular inspection and maintenance. But, assuming that the connections are maintained, I worry more about mast and standing rigging failures than about a boom failure. The video simply makes a point about damage inflicted on the boom by malpractice in the two situations mentioned: One a severe accidental gybe, and secondly using the vang as a preventer. Thanks for your comments... Tom
ty for a great video ! i was going to use a tackle to the toe rail, but like your method better. do you think it possible to eliminate the vang with this system ?
Another great video. These are especially useful for me as I have an IP350. I wonder if you could compare the use of a boom brake to a gybe preventer. Can a brake serve the same purpose or is a preventer preferred? If a brake has a different use case when is its use appropriate. Thanks again for such clear and instructional videos.
+Tom Moss: A boom brake will, of course, not stop the boom in an accidental gybe, but will only slow it down, so the hazard of hitting an unsuspecting crew member still exists. In strong winds, you need to set the tension of the brake higher to achieve its benefits, so you then increase the chances of boom damage due to a dip in the seawater as discussed in the video since the brake attaches forward on the boom. I'm not inclined to use a boom brake since its extra hardware hanging from the boom, plus the athwart ship lines need to be stepped over when going forward or working at the mast or furling/lashing the mainsail... Tom
Thank you for your explanations. I am a solo sailer and ordered the equipment to install a boom preventer. However, it will be some time before the equipment shows up due to these issues with Covid-19. Please tell me why I wouldn't set two lines, one on each side, with snap shackles in the cockpit at each of the aft cleats . I do not want to go forward and rework lines in the middle of a gybe. With 2 lines, I would lash a separate line with a steel ring to the boom so it hangs below the boom at the clew. In this way, the "switching" you refer to can safely occur in the cockpit of my boat. I would be able to simultaneously ease the active preventer while tightening the main sheet thereby maintaining control before bringing the traveler to centerline. With the boom at center, I would then snap on the inactive snap shackle ensuring the other end was already cleated even before I released the former active snap shackle. This provides me with continuous control of the boom from the cockpit which is the place I want to stay when running downwind with potentially crazy waves and wind. You expertise is appreciated so I would really appreciate a response. Please tell me of any fundamental problems with my concept. And understand I would NOT leave both connected to the boom because of the potential issue of dragging the boom in the water - I would want to be able to release the preventer line before I destroyed the boom from the force of the water on the boom and sail.
Using a double preventer is a good solution for a solo sailor as you propose if you can manage the extra lines from tripping you or getting fouled or tangled in the prop. However, I would not use snap shackles in a serious application as this due to the possibility of them coming open at the wrong time and leading to disastrous results. Simply tie the preventers to the boom with a bowline or round turn and two half hitches; I trust a stout line and good knots, but I do not trust snap shackles. If you want to avoid the need of tying and retying these lines, you could just leave them both secured to the boom at all times, but you need to be attentive to manage the additional lines on deck. The lazy preventer needs enough length to come across with the boom, and it should be marked in some way to know at what length to cleat it to avoid getting away from you and fouling... T
@@mdschoolofsailing I do have room to manage the 2 extra lines. I have a 1986 Catalina 22 setup for solo sailing and the lines are clean and lead to the cockpit on the cabin on each side of the companionway. Headsail lines on port. Mainsail lines on starboard. Thank you for your response and thank you for the well made video.
I can obviously see the point of rigging a preventer but my question is - by moving the traveller and boom to the centre line in readiness for the gybe, are you then not massively overpowering the sail (effectively close-hauled in a reach) for the time it takes to move the preventer to the other side of the boat? Thanks if anyone can answer.
You are in no way "overpowering" the sail. The effective area of the sail that the wind can "see" is reduced and so is the wind power. Cranking in the main before the gybe is normal procedure, regardless of the preventer. When sailing close hauled, the sails function like airplane wings. When you are reaching or running, the sail functions more like a passive resistance to the wind. That makes the difference
If you are "overpowered" on the Main for the conditions, you could round up when you sheet in. This is common in boats that are sailed for performance. If you are sailing the boat this way it will be nessisarry to trim the main in and ease smoothly as the gybe is happening to prevent an uncontroled main sail and overloading the rudder. Hopefully this answers your question.
As a U of Maryland grad, I'm interested in anything Maryland as I'm in Michigan! Appreciate the video--gotta admit, I've never rigged a preventer but you've simplified it such that it'll be a no brainer for me and my crew. Wondered though, a lot of discussion about attaching the line thru the clew and around the boom. I'm wondering, if I can attach the line to one of the fixed loops on the bottom of my boom closer to the center of the boom. Would that cause problems in terms of torsion on the boom, risking bending or breaking the boom? Or, would it improve those conditions such that it would be less of a risk?
Ok, now that I watched the rest of the video, I know that it's important to attach to the END of the boom in case of heeling to the point that the boom end is in the water on a serious heel. The support by the preventer and the main sheet will provide support such that it doesn't bend the boom.
Great video Capt. Tursi. As a ASA 118 graduate of MSA, Sep 2017, I know the quality of your school's education. I sail an IP31, my question is; How long should my preventer line be? I figured (31/2) for midship + 14 for boom, add 5, make it round figure 35 feet for my IP31. Am I off base? Regards, Ziya Gun
This is great. I want my sailing to be as relaxed as possible. I do not want to be the guy who had to be helicoptered off with a fractured skull, or worse, the skipper whose "crew" had to be helicoptered off, because by God she would never let me forget about it! If I want to go fast I get on my motorbike.
This is so well explained. First with drawings, then with real life video. Slowly, step by step, methodically explained, no panic.
This didn't get enough attention during my sailing training. Had I watched this a month ago, I wouldn't have had the boom sheet break my arm during an accidental gybe. That was an effective, though definitely not the best, way to properly learn the risks of gybing, but I very much prefer your way of teaching this! Thank you for a very well presented lesson, I will go out and practice once my arm has healed.
One of the best sailing instructional videos I have seen on TH-cam. Thank you!
The method of theory followed by practical demonstration is excellent
Thank you Master! Something I would like to mention is that you are not only an excellent sailor but also a real Instructor with effective knowledge transfer.
Absolutely brilliant, unhurried and totally clear explanation of how to rig a preventer.
I bought a 22ft sailboat and with absolutely no knowledge sailed from Poole Harbour South Coast England to southampton through hurst castle against the tide 12 hours sailing and experienced multiple crash gybes untill the runner broke from 1 end did not know what the hell was going on how I managed to get main sail down i just don't know
I've researched and researched why and how to deal with it
THIS VIDEO IS THE ONLY 1 OUT OF COUNTLESS THAT EXPLAINS PERFECTLY WHY AND HOW TO DEAL WITH AND PREVENT
You are an amazing teacher I have subscribed
Brilliantly clear instructions. These tutorials made my wife understand the manoevres so much better than before..
I wish I could go learn from this gentleman in person.
Gifted teachers make gifted sailors .Nice to see a video with both .
I love the way this is presented calmly and thoroughly, with all details explained in a simple way. I understood all the aspects of it, which is not always the case when professional sailors try to explain to less experienced ones. Thanks a lot.
Honestly, some of the best Sailing training videos on the internet, I stopped sailing 30 years ago and have forgotten so much, your videos are helping me so much! Thank You!!!! And thank you for not adding stupid music like many people do!
These instructions are excellent (as you would expect from a sailing school) for an armchair sailor learning the theory of sailing, many thanks for your videos.
Very nice lectures. Greetings from Poland to Maryland's sailors.
Outstanding video. It really helped me understand rigging a preventer on my boat and gives me a firm understanding. Now I know why those forward turning blocks are there.
As a side note when I disassembled the boom on our 30 year old boat to get the caps powder coated I discovered the forward aluminum cap was split internally at the goose neck, damage resulting from an accidental gybe sometime in the past. Had to replace the cap.
Very clear description. Easy to follow. The recap with the drawings is a very effective learning tool.
I have watched hours of sailing instructional videos over the last several days as I am contemplating the purchase of a boat. I have a friend who owns one and is willing to teach me how to sail a boat before I make my final decision as to whether or not to purchase one. I must say that of the many videos that I have watched, this one is the most organized and informative of them all. Thank you so much for your willingness to make and post your videos. I have subscribed to your channel and plan to watch the rest of them.
If you have not made a purchase to date I suggest a small cat, laser or sunfish. I started with a aqua cat 12.5.
Just do it. I'm considering the same, I'm currently sailing on a 60' retired ocean racer, after not having sailed for 27 years. It is not all that complicated, until the weather gets grim, you should get out and sail as much as possible, and do a competent crew course, and get on boats for passages, day sailing and passage making are two very different worlds
Outstanding video, step by step on how to do this correctly!
I appreciate your slow and steady pace of your explanations very much, spoken by a clear mind! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you from a guy who has always been on power boats. You explanation was complete and logical to the point a guy with no sail experience could totally comprehend your instruction. I plan to build a Wharram Cat for my next boat. so I do appreciate your class. Thank you again.
Finally! A great video that clearly displays all aspects of rigging a preventer!
Im not a sailer yet, but watching your video makes me feel much more comfortable. Thank you
So well explained & demonstrated, thank you
Looking forward to more of your tips & lessons.
Always informative and well done videos from Maryland School of Sailing and Seamanship. Best explanation and videos I’ve seen on the use and handling of Preventers.
The sketches are very illustrative. Kudos.
I'm in hotel quarantine and I felt like I was out there sailing with you. Thanks for the day out and lessons learnt today on safe gybe manoeuvres. Happy sailing! 👍
Incredibly helpful! Please do more of these!!!!
EXTREMELY thorough, I appreciate all the details and repetition. I fully understand what to do now! We had a close call with out Hunter 25 when our dog roamed into the sheet area when we were having an accidental jibe. I managed to pull our pup into the cabin before it happened but It wasn't very windy.. If it had been higher winds things could have been a lot worse.. - Chad
Whoa!
just starting to learn how to sail and this is a great video... Thankyou
Thank you. Very well presented and an awesome method for prevention of an accidental gybe.
Thank you so much. Now I know exactly what to do on my boat as I sail single handed. Appreciate it Sir
Many thanks, the complete sequence of a full Gybe in one instruction video
Super instructions , presented very well. I've sailed for many a year and its good to keep to have reminders . happy sailing take care. Ed
Congratulations on a well thought out and information presentation. This is a topic that has always confused me ........ no longer. Would love to see a similar presentation on sail trim.
Love the animations! Excellent descriptions
Well, this is one of the best most informative well layed out instructional videos i have ever seen on youtube.
Great videos, thank you. Looking to progress from dinghy sailing to bigger boats and these videos are a great help.
What a fantastic video. Many thanks. I love the slow time way to present all the information. Many thanks!
Hi ! Thank you for those very clear explanations
Always great advise from experienced sails on this channel. Thanks for sharing this jib control technique and others.
Well explained, ive always heard of a preventer and found little info on how to rig one. At least now I know what the preventer tool I have is now!
Very interesting, clear, and helpful instructions. Thank you very much!
Great video. Thanks. I notice at 21:56 where you demonstrated a controlled gybe with the preventer system, the preventer line was not tight as it should be per your recommendation for tightening it up with the main sheet. In particular, if the preventer was tight the only way the line could damage the stanchion is if it were intentionally allowed to do so by lengthening it under tension to continue the gybe instead of returning to the point of sale and performing a tack instead.
Thank you very much for your explanation and showing examples of the use of a jibe preventor.
Thank you very much for the comprehensive video, Capitan! What
would also be interesting to examine are the methods of safe jibing under gennaker,
avoiding broaching etc. Thanks again
Great video with very detailed explanations
Fantastic instruction! Perfectly clear!
Great video Captain!! We want more!!!
Great instruction. Thanks.
Top notch instruction! Thank you.
Love these videos, thanks so much!
fantastic video with a lot of good info!
Really good explanation, thanks so much.
Captain I loved the lesson, now I know! Thank you!
Thanks, great and organized video. Worth to spend some time in that
safety Demonstrations.
Another very informative video!
It took me time to understand that the "sheet" is not a plane, but a line.
"We have a nice system..." at 25:30 - but on the opposite side of the mast, the "system" was anything but nice!
Wouldn't a boom brake prevent all that?
Thank you for a nice presentation!
There are no "ropes" on a boat because all the ropes have individual names according to what they do. A "sheet" is a rope/ line that attaches to the "clew" (corner) of a sail in order to control the sail. A boom break might prevent some of "all that" but boom breaks also have their advantages and disadvantages, and require skills for operation.
@@rogerlloyd9413 You might note that the word „rope” never appeared in my comment. Thank you for the details, nevertheless.
@@SerbanOprescu He was addressing your confusion about what a sheet is, which is usually taught well before you learn the intricacies of jibing. I too was confused by your terms, like what is a plane (outside geometry)?
@@markisfeld4046 My wording was indeed referring to geometry. Geometry does include lines and planes (as it appears you already know), and in lack of additional data I associated „sheet” (like the bed lining) with a plane. Hence when hearing the word in Roger's video, I was confused. This being said, Roger's remark about 'not called ropes" had no object, since I never used the word. Thank you for your post.
Thank you for sharing your expertise and knowledge
Thanks for the video! Really cool boat, too! I've been sailing only smaller boats but look forward to having that setup in the future :)
Thanks so much for sharing this on youtube.
in strong winds this safety measure is very useful. Safe for crew and boats rigging.
Excellent. Very glad to see you teaching the use of a preventer and an excellent method of safe gybing. Still not happy about your locking turns though. With your method of tying off to a cleat, I have seen a line under tension (for example the preventer holing the boom after an accidental gybe) start to run as the locking turn is released which caused the locking turn to lock again. I worry about fingers getting caught in the locking turn as the crew member attempts to hold it.
I suggest not releasing the preventer under tension after an accidental gybe. Rather, crank the mainsheet tight to take the load, then release the preventer. This way you always have positive control of the boom... T
Excellent video, thoughtful
Excellent video - thank you
Muy buena explicación sobre la retenida y la maniobra.
That's my biggest worry. I'm scared the whole boom will fly off the boat. I don't know though, I still have to go to sailing school with the other sailors to gain confidence. Thanks for the upload. Seems like the way to do it and not get hurt.
+Mr. Midshipman Yes, it needs to be kept under positive control at all times... Tom
Wonderful presentation. Thank you. I am now going to get 2 preventer lines so I have them ready and pre rigged on each side for when I'm headed downwind.
+Maryland Sailing School How do you secure /rig the bowline to the end of the boom? I believe you mentioned that the loop goes thru the clew of the mainsail? That part was not clear to me. Great video and very helpful. Thanks
+Luis Santiago Pass a line through the clew of the mainsail and around the boom, and tie a bowline to form the loop around the boom. The reason that I put the line through the clew, is to keep it in place so it does not move fore and aft along the boom. There may be other ways to accomplish this same end, but I find this to be fairly simple and workable... Tom
+Maryland School of Sailing - That makes sense and it is simple to implement and doesn't required any special gadget. Thanks for the quick reply.
-Luis
Thank you, Captain! Very helpful!
Great video and instructions on how to do this. I'm curious if you've developed an effective [and safe] method of gybing while singlehanding?
+Filling The Sails ... The steps are the same, but you would need a reliable auto pilot to act as helmsman while you are doing the tasks shown in the video... MDS
Top drawer instruction. Happy sailing all
As a rock climber I understand how dangerous this can be. Shock loads magnify forces significantly. It's amazing how much.
Hi Ty formte great video - little remark: I’d go closer to the wind before initiating the gibe (I.e. crankin in the main sheet), prepare the preventer as shown here and then only I would steer into the gibe.
A little closer to the wind? Take another look at the wind direction in the video. If you are in any decent wind, it might make more sense to have the main reefed down more, depending on the size of the main.
Im just a newbie but I’m sure my single line system is simpler and you don’t have to leave the cockpit. The single line has a quick connect clip on each end. The line runs from a ring on the boom end, forward and past the shrouds on one side, through a sheave attached on the foredeck and back via the other side of the boat to a cleat in the cockpit. During a gybe, when the boom is sheeted hard to the centreline i release one end clip and attach the other. The loose end now becomes the cleated end and vice versa.
Thank you for an excellent video.
So well explained. Thank you.
Captain! Thank You !
Great video. I learned a lot.
Excellent.
Excellent video, this is a really simple and highly effective and stable technique, two questions, firstly, could you not just use frictional resistance on your preventer when easing and just winch in on the sheet? And the second question relates to adjustments to the vang during and after gybing?
Very interesting. Would it be better to use two lines in rough conditions so you don't have to go forward to relead it? Also when you made the bowline around the boom, is it just loose around the boom or through the clew eye?
Through the clew eye... T
Very good le out sail instructions.
What is the procedure if sailing single handed? Seem you mut have Port and Star Preventer handed onto the boom. Make the change when the boom is centered.
We run ours from boom to foward then back to a winch. That way we can adjust it or ease it back slowy.
Really good stuff.
So helpful, thank you!
Thanks very good very detailed
Is there concern for damage to the boom by holding the preventer at the end of the boom and the sheet further forward? I know a boom is tough but it seems to be an unusual stress.
+Pass Me By I forgot to add my thanks for the video.
+Pass Me By I don't know how much farther forward you mean, but I don't see a problem for the proportions show in the sketches... Tom
Sorry. Certainly not forward of the sheet. Maybe at the sheet to boom connection? Since you did not see a problem then perhaps there is none. I don't have a second nature understanding of the forces on the boom and mast. I know they are considerable and have always been cautious with heavy strains on equipment. Farm machinery and rigging of that sort. You can get dead quick with thousands of pounds on a line or chain.
+Pass Me By Yes, the sheet to boom connection is important as are all rigging connections, and they all require regular inspection and maintenance. But, assuming that the connections are maintained, I worry more about mast and standing rigging failures than about a boom failure. The video simply makes a point about damage inflicted on the boom by malpractice in the two situations mentioned: One a severe accidental gybe, and secondly using the vang as a preventer. Thanks for your comments... Tom
And thank you for your response.
ty for a great video ! i was going to use a tackle to the toe rail, but like your method better. do you think it possible to eliminate the vang with this system ?
Oh, I haven't yet thought of the vang idea. Now I will consciously not do that. Great lesson!
Thank you sir.
Another great video. These are especially useful for me as I have an IP350. I wonder if you could compare the use of a boom brake to a gybe preventer. Can a brake serve the same purpose or is a preventer preferred? If a brake has a different use case when is its use appropriate. Thanks again for such clear and instructional videos.
+Tom Moss: A boom brake will, of course, not stop the boom in an accidental gybe, but will only slow it down, so the hazard of hitting an unsuspecting crew member still exists. In strong winds, you need to set the tension of the brake higher to achieve its benefits, so you then increase the chances of boom damage due to a dip in the seawater as discussed in the video since the brake attaches forward on the boom. I'm not inclined to use a boom brake since its extra hardware hanging from the boom, plus the athwart ship lines need to be stepped over when going forward or working at the mast or furling/lashing the mainsail... Tom
+Maryland School of Sailing Thanks Tom good points.
Mitch G excellent and very informative demonstration, the most detailed i've seen fpr a newbe like me.
Thank you for your explanations. I am a solo sailer and ordered the equipment to install a boom preventer. However, it will be some time before the equipment shows up due to these issues with Covid-19. Please tell me why I wouldn't set two lines, one on each side, with snap shackles in the cockpit at each of the aft cleats . I do not want to go forward and rework lines in the middle of a gybe. With 2 lines, I would lash a separate line with a steel ring to the boom so it hangs below the boom at the clew. In this way, the "switching" you refer to can safely occur in the cockpit of my boat. I would be able to simultaneously ease the active preventer while tightening the main sheet thereby maintaining control before bringing the traveler to centerline. With the boom at center, I would then snap on the inactive snap shackle ensuring the other end was already cleated even before I released the former active snap shackle. This provides me with continuous control of the boom from the cockpit which is the place I want to stay when running downwind with potentially crazy waves and wind. You expertise is appreciated so I would really appreciate a response. Please tell me of any fundamental problems with my concept. And understand I would NOT leave both connected to the boom because of the potential issue of dragging the boom in the water - I would want to be able to release the preventer line before I destroyed the boom from the force of the water on the boom and sail.
Using a double preventer is a good solution for a solo sailor as you propose if you can manage the extra lines from tripping you or getting fouled or tangled in the prop. However, I would not use snap shackles in a serious application as this due to the possibility of them coming open at the wrong time and leading to disastrous results. Simply tie the preventers to the boom with a bowline or round turn and two half hitches; I trust a stout line and good knots, but I do not trust snap shackles. If you want to avoid the need of tying and retying these lines, you could just leave them both secured to the boom at all times, but you need to be attentive to manage the additional lines on deck. The lazy preventer needs enough length to come across with the boom, and it should be marked in some way to know at what length to cleat it to avoid getting away from you and fouling... T
@@mdschoolofsailing I do have room to manage the 2 extra lines. I have a 1986 Catalina 22 setup for solo sailing and the lines are clean and lead to the cockpit on the cabin on each side of the companionway. Headsail lines on port. Mainsail lines on starboard. Thank you for your response and thank you for the well made video.
I can obviously see the point of rigging a preventer but my question is - by moving the traveller and boom to the centre line in readiness for the gybe, are you then not massively overpowering the sail (effectively close-hauled in a reach) for the time it takes to move the preventer to the other side of the boat? Thanks if anyone can answer.
You are in no way "overpowering" the sail. The effective area of the sail that the wind can "see" is reduced and so is the wind power. Cranking in the main before the gybe is normal procedure, regardless of the preventer.
When sailing close hauled, the sails function like airplane wings. When you are reaching or running, the sail functions more like a passive resistance to the wind. That makes the difference
If you are "overpowered" on the Main for the conditions, you could round up when you sheet in. This is common in boats that are sailed for performance. If you are sailing the boat this way it will be nessisarry to trim the main in and ease smoothly as the gybe is happening to prevent an uncontroled main sail and overloading the rudder. Hopefully this answers your question.
As a U of Maryland grad, I'm interested in anything Maryland as I'm in Michigan! Appreciate the video--gotta admit, I've never rigged a preventer but you've simplified it such that it'll be a no brainer for me and my crew.
Wondered though, a lot of discussion about attaching the line thru the clew and around the boom. I'm wondering, if I can attach the line to one of the fixed loops on the bottom of my boom closer to the center of the boom. Would that cause problems in terms of torsion on the boom, risking bending or breaking the boom? Or, would it improve those conditions such that it would be less of a risk?
Ok, now that I watched the rest of the video, I know that it's important to attach to the END of the boom in case of heeling to the point that the boom end is in the water on a serious heel. The support by the preventer and the main sheet will provide support such that it doesn't bend the boom.
Yes, end of the boom is preferred for the reasons that you state... T
Excellent video, try racing a sailing dinghy and gybing, get it wrong and you're in the water with your boat turned turtle?
Great video Capt. Tursi. As a ASA 118 graduate of MSA, Sep 2017, I know the quality of your school's education. I sail an IP31, my question is; How long should my preventer line be? I figured (31/2) for midship + 14 for boom, add 5, make it round figure 35 feet for my IP31. Am I off base? Regards, Ziya Gun
No midship cleat on my Jeanneau, should I add a friction free ring to the toe rail?
Do you have one farther forward, I always read to use those anyway.
This is great. I want my sailing to be as relaxed as possible. I do not want to be the guy who had to be helicoptered off with a fractured skull, or worse, the skipper whose "crew" had to be helicoptered off, because by God she would never let me forget about it!
If I want to go fast I get on my motorbike.
Thank You..