Me too, Mads. Have a great time in LA. I love your videos too. It's cool that you and Andy watch each other's channels. Maybe he could visit your boat, or you could visit Boat Works Today. That would be awesome.
Hi Andy. So glad you changed to Total Boat, better product, easier working time, no pinholes. Jamestown Total Boat are now a sponsor and 170k subscribers 😀 Amazing channel, many thanks. Ps do the Bertram transom 1st.
I spent 5 years as an apprentice to train as a plumber and the trade was very good to me now that I'm retired with a very good lifestyle in Florida. It was very hard work but I loved my craft through forty years of doing high rise building's to steam plant installations. I say that to say this I love your passion for what you teach other's and it doesn't take but a few minutes watching you to know you are very skilled craftsman. I have all the respect for you and wish you the very best in your career! Love your video's.
My old 1963 Fiberglass boat has a slight curvature built/molded into the transom. I believe this is to make it stronger when pushed by engine? About ten years ago a friend helped me put some new wood in the transom: We dug out the wood that was rotted from the top & two areas on the inside near the bottom. The wood in the center was mostly good, due to engine mounting keeping it tight. We fitted new pieces of wood in layers. I made cardboard templates to help size new wood pieces. We coated the wood with West System Epoxy. We drilled holes thru the transom & used threaded rod with fender washers & nuts to squeeze the transom together. The threaded rod & washers were coated with Pam cooking spray, so they would not stick. We used a very long drill bit & drilled holes from the top to a reasonable depth into the new wood. We pumped epoxy into these holes using a syringe to saturate the transom with epoxy. Once the threaded rods were removed, we filled the holes with epoxy & fiberglass fill using a syringe. We then laid new fiberglass sheet & epoxy over the transom inside & out. Anyway, I am just relying on my memory, but it was something like this we did. I call West Systems & they told me the trick with the Pam spray. I noticed some TH-cam's recently, where they dig out the old wood from the top & pour a mixture into the cavity. I think it was called Seacrest?
Just wanna let you know , if it wasnt for you i wouldnt of even brought my boat, got an old shetland 535 , and ive never used fiberglass or owned a boat but like you , im pretty handy. I have now chopped out the entire transom including glass, and the splashwell, and rebuilt my own custom height transom , and will be finishing it today. You shoukd be very proud of yourself for the knowledge you pass on, very very proud of myself for what ive done and its all because of your whaler videos and that "impact" haha hole . Just thankyou, your a pleasure to watch and love all the extra info !!!!
You have no idea how awesome it is to have You back, now my triangle of knowledge (Boatworks Today, Sail Life and Sailing Uma) is whole once again! Welcome back Andy! Excited to see what you have lined up. When I first started doing my restore, I began with US Composites, making my own fairing and ran in to numerous issues with sags and pin holes. I switch to Total Boat Total Fair and will never look back unless I am doing a very large FLAT surface.
Damn, dude! If we're not related we should have been. Watching your videos is about 1/3 de ja vue as if I'm watching a video of me on the far side of your expertise. Heading out to finish my glass job!
A 20lb box of 410???😦...that’s a lot of product. It’s already a large can when you buy it in the 2oz package. I love your channel brother, your experience and information brings a ton of value to TH-cam. I’ve got a 2006 Mitzi skiff 17 that needs a decent amount of glass and fairing work. Your channel has been my one single source of information regarding direction and technique with how I’ve approached various projects on my boat.
Watching this 2 years on Andy as I have a transom to replace too. Looked for good no fuss advice for a while now. Just found it, thanks for your detail!!!👌🏻
I'm in no way a boat person, and I'm only just now getting to learn my way around fiberglass related projects for my car :o I subscribed to your channel because you're obviously someone who very much cares about quality. I look forward to learning more about your fiberglass work and all of the boats you work on! Pretty cool!
Great show mate. Just a couple of observations , laying glass up on bare wood is not advisable as the bare timber tends to suck the resin in leaving a dry layup on the first layer, better to seal the timber ply first with resin and let it dry off. Secondly re differing resins as an light aircraft mechanical engineer we were taught poly adheres to vynilester, vynilester adheres to epoxy but poly and expoxy dont adhere to one another. So if in doubt use vyniliester cheers great show always something else to learn
Hey I just binged the whole job on this and now remember that it was worthy of thumb up on each segment. I omitted that task in my enthusiasm to digest the next portion of work. The information this all provided was a reasonable education and the finish is evidence of the solid product you applied. But if thats a cop boat how the he** did they get their boat into that state? That must have been some adventure?
Andy...after you mix the material, if you have a way to cover it and use your shop vac to draw whatever vacuum you can, it will cause any air bubbles to expand and then rise to the surface. The smaller bubbles will not rise in the thickened material but when the vacuum expands any air they will. Dental labs use this old technique when they are getting ready to cover a wax pattern with refractory plaster prior to casting. You might try a metal lid with a hole that you can seal your vacuum to. Good luck
Hey Andy, Andy here again. you answered my question from previous video in the first 1 minute and 15 seconds of this video. much appreciated. keep up the good work. i have a 25' grady white offshore pro. gonna do some fun upgrades. built in baitwell, new dash and control center. repairs. ect. thank you for doing this. i wouldn't know where to start without you!. thanks again, Andy Raoufi Synergy Tek
In 30 years as a home remodeler, I've probably skim-coated 1000 acres of drywall and plaster walls/ceilings. Those same damn pinholes/bubbles were just like the ones in your faring compound, and it does add huge amounts of time to any job to go over and over it again. Sanding dust fills them and makes them impossible to see only to show up again after you've primed. I sympathize with this conundrum 100%. All I can say is, Gob o Goop Andy. Gob o Goop.
Jon Hansen On your final coat of mud, use non quickset and add about a cup of Palmolive dish soap to a five gallon bucket. Mix thoroughly, it will slick right up for you.
@@jerrynewberry2823 Yep this was always our trick too, although we added a teaspoon to the tray, instead of to the whole bucket for small batches of skim coat!
Thanks for the hint about adding 406 with the 410 when fairing something vertical. I had been struggling with 410 sagging. Thank you for such a wonderful TH-cam channel. I have learned so much from watching your videos.
Andy is bloody handy. Best videos and advice on boat repair... Dam pin holes. Flearing Sanding my 146 haineshunter cabin converted to cconcole. After the abuse and dodgy repairs from past owner (filled transum up with sisaflx then covered in bog under ally angle edge... And every time I watch your are splitting image of a old friend of mine.. From western Australia... Cheers
Interesting, humorous, informative, skilled, attentive to detail - you continue to set the bar high! And, it's always good to see a project end. I mean, there must have been 15 or 20 sandings - your patience is ridiculous! Also, appreciate your candor as well on the different products. Great job!
Hi Andy, Im very impressed how detail oriented you are and i think this is the pinnacle of all your videos cause the finish of preparation for paintwork is basically the end of any project. I found out a product its a fine thick liquid putty that needs a larger nozzle for the gun at least 2.0. but the application and the sanding is very easy , serves as a marker and can be applied in thick layer. I think you can shave some hours using it. Maybe you can find it on your market and try it. Best John
Here its West system that is recommended for fairing. Would far prefer the totalboat if it was available. Seeing you do this work gives me the confidence to give it a try. Thanks for putting your knowledge out there for others to learn from.
A die grinder will help alot with pin holes i use to refurbish wind turbine blades and we would just die grind them then put a wee bit of gel in that spot then sand with 80 grit
Thank you for taking time to show us boat lovers how to make repairs or just watching for entertainment. As a boston whaler owner i respect the skill and trade you have.
I have had great results with a lot of their name branded stuff and free quick shipping too. They also have real techs that seem super knowledgeable on the phone.
Andy, it's exciting to think that you will be doing a weekly video. You have a gift in being able to convey knowledge in terms easily understood by the layman. Your work looks supurb so I'm sure there is demand and a good following on the commercial side. I know, only too well, the pinhole issue everyone dreads. Years ago I came accross a product that we had used in the automobile industry that was made for marine application. Evercoat is an easy sanding durable product who's marine version is called Formula 27. A mobile fiberglass repairman from CT. has since showed me different techniques involving vinalester or polyester resin added before the hardner, mixed thoroughly, to thin the formula 27 and eliminate pinholes from the get go. It's a trial and error system, but quickly learned ratios for effect desired. I don't get to do glasswork much anymore so I'm way behind the curve tech wise. I hope this helps you out some. See you in the next one.
Great to see you, Andy! Thanks for the education. I can’t relate the wealth of information that I’ve learned from you. With your direction I’ve been able to complete my project quicker and with less $.
You have given me the desire to repair an old boat in my possession. It is a small motor boat with soft transom and floor. Probably cost more than the boat is worth but it would be a great project with your help!
Total fairing sounds great. I try to bridge over 11oz twill carbon cloth pattern, its tough,, plus I build unibodies that haf to weigh nothing. Learned total boat over at lou’s channel.
She turned out nice! Glad to see you are getting into video full time! Really looking forward to the new project! I will probably be picking your brain in a couple of months when I get into restoring my Spencer 42-2, have some 52 year old gel coat to bring back to life! I have learned so much watching your videos already, really excited to see you are going full time!
WOW!!! Just came across Boatworks Today . I have to say that I could not stop watching the Boston Whaler 25 vids ! I have a question! Have you ever tried Coosa Board instead of plywood for Transom and Stringers ? I have already learned a lot from watching you ! I'm researching rebuilding my 30 year old Skeeter Bass Boat ! I. Have many more questions , too many for right now ! I've your show and look forward to learning more with each vid . Thanks
Thanks for the video, had I not seen this video I wouldn’t have known that epoxy filler even exists! I’m about to undertake a similar project in my dad’s 1985 trihull boat.
I'm glad you mentioned the use of a sanding board. You might want to try a air powered sanding board. There a lot easier to level out a area then a 6" DA sander. One way to keep from getting pin holes is to vacuum bag the area. A little more work but can be worth it.
Aloha Andy: great channel, and well presented! I’ve worked with West System products for over 40 years, and I’m well aware of the pitting produced by 410 fairing. My solution has been using glazing putty to hit the worst of the pitting, which can be done quickly, and then to use a high build primer like Awlgrip D8002/D3002 for surfaces above the waterline. I haven’t worked with Jamestown epoxy products, but they sound good. I’ll give them a try once my West stores are gone. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate your objective comparisons of products. I always thought the pinholes in the West System 410 filler were my fault! As a fan of many of the JT products, I've purchased from them since the late '80's! I have noticed some differences though ... it seems that JT epoxy takes about half a day longer to get tack free, than West System epoxy with the comparable hardener. And the JT gloss varnish "Lust" is meant to go up against Epiphanes, but I have not had any success at all with JT Lust - it stays softer, thins with Xylene instead of turpentine, and doesn't seem to hold up as well in the sunlight. Looking forward to more of your videos!
This video has been so informative. I’m at the stage of fairing my yacht top deck and as you have pointed out I’ve ended up with a lot of pinholes as I’ve sanded back. Trouble is I’m in New Zealand and whilst The West System is widely available I’ve not come across this other fairing product. I will have to shop around and see if I can find a distributor.
When doing my little boat, I too had issues with the "pin hole" in the fairing. I worked and worked days trying to remove them, but it seems they would be some somewhere every coat. So I shot high build primer and wet sanded until I got most of them out. Time consuming for sure.
Great vid as usual! You probably already know this, but if you need to cure your fairing compound in an hour or two for sanding then a couple of those cheap infra red quartz heaters heats the surface, not the air, and gets it done during lunch. Got to be a wee bit careful with distance so as not to overheat things, but works a treat in a draughty shed in Scotland in the middle of winter! Best wishes, Andy
Congrats great to hear you’ll be doing more vids ! I’ve been really interested in building a stitch and glue boat from bateau! Between the fs17 and classic open 17 models. Real stoked to see your runabout project that’s exactly what I’m thinking of!
Looks awesome as always, Andy! Thanks for the shout out :) I'm so excited to have BoatworksToday videos every week!
We'll have to chat again soon :-)! I'll be keeping an eye out for your vid later this afternoon!
I love both of your videos!!! You all are onto something very big. 👍👍👍
Today I get the double hit -- my two favorite channels @boatworkstoday @saillife
Me too, Mads. Have a great time in LA. I love your videos too. It's cool that you and Andy watch each other's channels. Maybe he could visit your boat, or you could visit Boat Works Today. That would be awesome.
A new channel might be born: "The Godfathers of Sanding"
Hi Andy. So glad you changed to Total Boat, better product, easier working time, no pinholes. Jamestown Total Boat are now a sponsor and 170k subscribers 😀 Amazing channel, many thanks. Ps do the Bertram transom 1st.
Definitely the best channel of works on boats ... 👏
I spent 5 years as an apprentice to train as a plumber and the trade was very good to me now that I'm retired with a very good lifestyle in Florida. It was very hard work but I loved my craft through forty years of doing high rise building's to steam plant installations. I say that to say this I love your passion for what you teach other's and it doesn't take but a few minutes watching you to know you are very skilled craftsman. I have all the respect for you and wish you the very best in your career! Love your video's.
My old 1963 Fiberglass boat has a slight curvature built/molded into the transom. I believe this is to make it stronger when pushed by engine?
About ten years ago a friend helped me put some new wood in the transom:
We dug out the wood that was rotted from the top & two areas on the inside near the bottom. The wood in the center was mostly good, due to engine mounting keeping it tight.
We fitted new pieces of wood in layers. I made cardboard templates to help size new wood pieces.
We coated the wood with West System Epoxy.
We drilled holes thru the transom & used threaded rod with fender washers & nuts to squeeze the transom together.
The threaded rod & washers were coated with Pam cooking spray, so they would not stick.
We used a very long drill bit & drilled holes from the top to a reasonable depth into the new wood. We pumped epoxy into these holes using a syringe to saturate the transom with epoxy.
Once the threaded rods were removed, we filled the holes with epoxy & fiberglass fill using a syringe.
We then laid new fiberglass sheet & epoxy over the transom inside & out.
Anyway, I am just relying on my memory, but it was something like this we did.
I call West Systems & they told me the trick with the Pam spray.
I noticed some TH-cam's recently, where they dig out the old wood from the top & pour a mixture into the cavity. I think it was called Seacrest?
You are a master of your craft sir.
I watches this series to help me rebuild my vintage 1960 Seafair transom , thanks for the help
Let's say WELCOME back Andy, and i wish you a fast recover during your shoulder treatment. And again wish you the best for Boatworks Today.
Best channel out there, been watching these videos over and over while I’m trying to restore a little Dixie Malibu
I wish I had Total Fair when I built my Mahogany Drift boat. I am a student of your marvelous work. Thank you
Just wanna let you know , if it wasnt for you i wouldnt of even brought my boat, got an old shetland 535 , and ive never used fiberglass or owned a boat but like you , im pretty handy.
I have now chopped out the entire transom including glass, and the splashwell, and rebuilt my own custom height transom , and will be finishing it today. You shoukd be very proud of yourself for the knowledge you pass on, very very proud of myself for what ive done and its all because of your whaler videos and that "impact" haha hole .
Just thankyou, your a pleasure to watch and love all the extra info !!!!
FishermanKai Dyas Yes I know basic cosmetic fiberglass. Want to get into structural fiberglass. He is very smart and talented.
You have no idea how awesome it is to have You back, now my triangle of knowledge (Boatworks Today, Sail Life and Sailing Uma) is whole once again! Welcome back Andy! Excited to see what you have lined up. When I first started doing my restore, I began with US Composites, making my own fairing and ran in to numerous issues with sags and pin holes. I switch to Total Boat Total Fair and will never look back unless I am doing a very large FLAT surface.
I've got an old gheenoe that needs a new transom. Thanks for your videos
Damn, dude! If we're not related we should have been. Watching your videos is about 1/3 de ja vue as if I'm watching a video of me on the far side of your expertise. Heading out to finish my glass job!
This is mind numbing addictive! Or maybe I just really enjoy boat repair. Working with your hands and turning out a perfect project is satisfying.
A 20lb box of 410???😦...that’s a lot of product. It’s already a large can when you buy it in the 2oz package. I love your channel brother, your experience and information brings a ton of value to TH-cam. I’ve got a 2006 Mitzi skiff 17 that needs a decent amount of glass and fairing work. Your channel has been my one single source of information regarding direction and technique with how I’ve approached various projects on my boat.
Your OCD is on point. Good job sir.
Really Appreciate your artistry.
Watching this 2 years on Andy as I have a transom to replace too. Looked for good no fuss advice for a while now. Just found it, thanks for your detail!!!👌🏻
This and all your videos are GOLD!
Well done mate from the UK, Olly
I'm in no way a boat person, and I'm only just now getting to learn my way around fiberglass related projects for my car :o I subscribed to your channel because you're obviously someone who very much cares about quality. I look forward to learning more about your fiberglass work and all of the boats you work on! Pretty cool!
Andy when I lay epoxy I take my propane torch to pop bubbles on the surface to minimize pinholes.
Yay! A new video…. and boatloads of guilt for not working on my own boat. Guilt, Inspiration & Entertainment all in one shot - what a deal! :)
Added thumbs up for Yosemite Sam reference
Great show mate. Just a couple of observations , laying glass up on bare wood is not advisable as the bare timber tends to suck the resin in leaving a dry layup on the first layer, better to seal the timber ply first with resin and let it dry off. Secondly re differing resins as an light aircraft mechanical engineer we were taught poly adheres to vynilester, vynilester adheres to epoxy but poly and expoxy dont adhere to one another. So if in doubt use vyniliester cheers great show always something else to learn
Hey I just binged the whole job on this and now remember that it was worthy of thumb up on each segment. I omitted that task in my enthusiasm to digest the next portion of work. The information this all provided was a reasonable education and the finish is evidence of the solid product you applied. But if thats a cop boat how the he** did they get their boat into that state? That must have been some adventure?
Who's going to get me from roofer lvl to boat lvl. This guy !
Glad to see you switched to the Total product line, it seems that it's working out best for everyone else that's made the switch as well!
Andy...after you mix the material, if you have a way to cover it and use your shop vac to draw whatever vacuum you can, it will cause any air bubbles to expand and then rise to the surface. The smaller bubbles will not rise in the thickened material but when the vacuum expands any air they will. Dental labs use this old technique when they are getting ready to cover a wax pattern with refractory plaster prior to casting. You might try a metal lid with a hole that you can seal your vacuum to. Good luck
Great advice.
Hey Andy,
Andy here again.
you answered my question from previous video in the first 1 minute and 15 seconds of this video. much appreciated. keep up the good work. i have a 25' grady white offshore pro. gonna do some fun upgrades. built in baitwell, new dash and control center. repairs. ect. thank you for doing this. i wouldn't know where to start without you!.
thanks again,
Andy Raoufi
Synergy Tek
In 30 years as a home remodeler, I've probably skim-coated 1000 acres of drywall and plaster walls/ceilings. Those same damn pinholes/bubbles were just like the ones in your faring compound, and it does add huge amounts of time to any job to go over and over it again. Sanding dust fills them and makes them impossible to see only to show up again after you've primed. I sympathize with this conundrum 100%. All I can say is, Gob o Goop Andy. Gob o Goop.
Jon Hansen
On your final coat of mud, use non quickset and add about a cup of Palmolive dish soap to a five gallon bucket. Mix thoroughly, it will slick right up for you.
@@jerrynewberry2823 Yep this was always our trick too, although we added a teaspoon to the tray, instead of to the whole bucket for small batches of skim coat!
Im glad you already told him the palmolive trick I was wondering if it was a trade secret.. smooth skim coats = palmolive in your mud..😎
Thanks for the hint about adding 406 with the 410 when fairing something vertical. I had been struggling with 410 sagging. Thank you for such a wonderful TH-cam channel. I have learned so much from watching your videos.
Andy, I love the little girls closing line, I hope you never change it. : )
Andy is bloody handy. Best videos and advice on boat repair... Dam pin holes. Flearing Sanding my 146 haineshunter cabin converted to cconcole. After the abuse and dodgy repairs from past owner (filled transum up with sisaflx then covered in bog under ally angle edge... And every time I watch your are splitting image of a old friend of mine.. From western Australia... Cheers
I can't wait for more frequent videos Andy. Thanks for all you teach us. Hey, get Mads to to visit Boat Works Today sometime when he's in the States.
Interesting, humorous, informative, skilled, attentive to detail - you continue to set the bar high! And, it's always good to see a project end. I mean, there must have been 15 or 20 sandings - your patience is ridiculous! Also, appreciate your candor as well on the different products. Great job!
Nice smooth finish!👍
Just became a patron -- Thanks Andy for all your help.
As a DIY-er it is so intimidating to watch a meticulous pro at work. Excellent results and a joy to watch!
I always look forward to Sail Life videos on Sundays and now with you doing weekly videos it's going to twice as good!
Hi Andy, Im very impressed how detail oriented you are and i think this is the pinnacle of all your videos cause the finish of preparation for paintwork is basically the end of any project. I found out a product its a fine thick liquid putty that needs a larger nozzle for the gun at least 2.0. but the application and the sanding is very easy , serves as a marker and can be applied in thick layer. I think you can shave some hours using it. Maybe you can find it on your market and try it. Best John
Here its West system that is recommended for fairing. Would far prefer the totalboat if it was available. Seeing you do this work gives me the confidence to give it a try. Thanks for putting your knowledge out there for others to learn from.
Nice would have been cool to see the other parts of this project. Nice work. The new fairing compound looks promising.
Very nice work. Enjoyed all the vids.
Andy.... I love your programing....keep up the great work
Absolutely loved this.👍👍
A die grinder will help alot with pin holes i use to refurbish wind turbine blades and we would just die grind them then put a wee bit of gel in that spot then sand with 80 grit
I thought I was a meticulous perfectionist... then I watch this guy, and suddenly I feel like a neanderthal! Amazing work!
Thank you for taking time to show us boat lovers how to make repairs or just watching for entertainment. As a boston whaler owner i respect the skill and trade you have.
Totally agree on the Total Fair. Easy on, easy sanding and no pin holes! Great stuff.
I have had great results with a lot of their name branded stuff and free quick shipping too. They also have real techs that seem super knowledgeable on the phone.
Andy, it's exciting to think that you will be doing a weekly video. You have a gift in being able to convey knowledge in terms easily understood by the layman. Your work looks supurb so I'm sure there is demand and a good following on the commercial side. I know, only too well, the pinhole issue everyone dreads. Years ago I came accross a product that we had used in the automobile industry that was made for marine application. Evercoat is an easy sanding durable product who's marine version is called Formula 27. A mobile fiberglass repairman from CT. has since showed me different techniques involving vinalester or polyester resin added before the hardner, mixed thoroughly, to thin the formula 27 and eliminate pinholes from the get go. It's a trial and error system, but quickly learned ratios for effect desired. I don't get to do glasswork much anymore so I'm way behind the curve tech wise. I hope this helps you out some. See you in the next one.
Total boat fairing all the way
Awesome vid Andy...as always. So glad to hear you are going full time video!
Those are really good news, really looking forward to the new uploading schedule
Super excited to follow the next project!
Great to see you, Andy! Thanks for the education. I can’t relate the wealth of information that I’ve learned from you. With your direction I’ve been able to complete my project quicker and with less $.
I live about 20 miles away from Jamestown Distributors. Great place, good people.
Very professional job.
Thanks. A lot of work. I get discouraged by the fact that there are so many different resin types. Hard to catch up to
You have given me the desire to repair an old boat in my possession. It is a small motor boat with soft transom and floor. Probably cost more than the boat is worth but it would be a great project with your help!
I liked the sound clip of Sam, and yes, I do remember. Thanks for sharing the video and your time to make it. :-)
As a wood boat owner, some tips and tricks for us folks would be awesome too. Things like fixing rot, proper sealing with epoxy and etc
Total fairing sounds great. I try to bridge over 11oz twill carbon cloth pattern, its tough,, plus I build unibodies that haf to weigh nothing. Learned total boat over at lou’s channel.
She turned out nice! Glad to see you are getting into video full time!
Really looking forward to the new project!
I will probably be picking your brain in a couple of months when I get into restoring my Spencer 42-2, have some 52 year old gel coat to bring back to life!
I have learned so much watching your videos already, really excited to see you are going full time!
Can’t wait to see full time Andy videos. We got you man!
WOW!!! Just came across Boatworks Today . I have to say that I could not stop watching the Boston Whaler 25 vids ! I have a question! Have you ever tried Coosa Board instead of plywood for Transom and Stringers ? I have already learned a lot from watching you ! I'm researching rebuilding my 30 year old Skeeter Bass Boat ! I. Have many more questions , too many for right now ! I've your show and look forward to learning more with each vid . Thanks
Great news regarding the more frequent vlogs the more the better...Txs.look forward to it...
Great video Andy. The transom turned out fantastic! I can't wait to see more of the new project boat.
Try using a heatgun to get rid of pin holes. Let me know if it works. It should push air out.
I don't even own a boat. 3rd video I 👀. Good stuff.
Congratulations on finally getting this wrapped up! That was a pretty big job.
Awesome work, Andy. Keep the great vids coming.
Andy posts I thumbs up.
Thanks for the video, had I not seen this video I wouldn’t have known that epoxy filler even exists! I’m about to undertake a similar project in my dad’s 1985 trihull boat.
Your video’s are Amazing!
Thanks for being back online Andy!
I'm glad you mentioned the use of a sanding board. You might want to try a air powered sanding board. There a lot easier to level out a area then a 6" DA sander.
One way to keep from getting pin holes is to vacuum bag the area. A little more work but can be worth it.
Aloha Andy: great channel, and well presented! I’ve worked with West System products for over 40 years, and I’m well aware of the pitting produced by 410 fairing. My solution has been using glazing putty to hit the worst of the pitting, which can be done quickly, and then to use a high build primer like Awlgrip D8002/D3002 for surfaces above the waterline. I haven’t worked with Jamestown epoxy products, but they sound good. I’ll give them a try once my West stores are gone. Keep up the good work!
I really appreciate your objective comparisons of products. I always thought the pinholes in the West System 410 filler were my fault! As a fan of many of the JT products, I've purchased from them since the late '80's! I have noticed some differences though ... it seems that JT epoxy takes about half a day longer to get tack free, than West System epoxy with the comparable hardener. And the JT gloss varnish "Lust" is meant to go up against Epiphanes, but I have not had any success at all with JT Lust - it stays softer, thins with Xylene instead of turpentine, and doesn't seem to hold up as well in the sunlight. Looking forward to more of your videos!
Great to see you dedicating more time to TH-cam content. You're a great educator. Wishing you all the best and much success.
still amazed. Got that boat back to being a boat.
This video has been so informative. I’m at the stage of fairing my yacht top deck and as you have pointed out I’ve ended up with a lot of pinholes as I’ve sanded back. Trouble is I’m in New Zealand and whilst The West System is widely available I’ve not come across this other fairing product. I will have to shop around and see if I can find a distributor.
love the skimming action ,,, very smooth ,,
the paint looks great all round the boat too.
Looking forward to weekly content and a new project that’s not a sail boat 👍
Well done, sir!! I look forward to seeing and learning more. I will be tackling my boat in the coming year.
Awesome videos can't wait for the Bertram, I have a 25 and need to do my cockpit decks over.👍
Awesome Video Mate
Nice work brother
Exceptional work sir ! Thank you !
GREAT JOB GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
Hey Andy you've definitely got my curiosity wet just waiting for the next project, great job on this one.
When doing my little boat, I too had issues with the "pin hole" in the fairing. I worked and worked days trying to remove them, but it seems they would be some somewhere every coat. So I shot high build primer and wet sanded until I got most of them out. Time consuming for sure.
Great vid as usual! You probably already know this, but if you need to cure your fairing compound in an hour or two for sanding then a couple of those cheap infra red quartz heaters heats the surface, not the air, and gets it done during lunch. Got to be a wee bit careful with distance so as not to overheat things, but works a treat in a draughty shed in Scotland in the middle of winter! Best wishes, Andy
Thanks for the great videos. Why did you only paint from the waterline up on the boston whaler transom? Sorry if I missed the reason.
Fantastic work, and nice videos :) Thank you :) Anyway , I am wondering why you changed this transom?
Great to see you back online :)
Congrats great to hear you’ll be doing more vids ! I’ve been really interested in building a stitch and glue boat from bateau! Between the fs17 and classic open 17 models. Real stoked to see your runabout project that’s exactly what I’m thinking of!
Thank you for all the product information will buy with for my rebuild. I will check out Jamestown distributor.
amazing work brother