Back in the 80s I had a mobile Marine service I started. Did a lot of fiberglass repair sprayed all grip etc. I still love boats I just don't work on them anymore. I enjoy watching your videos and people are lucky you take your time to post them! Thank you for sharing.
Man I wish you could make more than one video a month. It’s so informative maybe you can just make them longer than this one!! Thanks for all you do in making these videos!! 👍👍👍🛥🚤⚓️
"Until next time, thanks for watchin man." Andy, once a hippie, always a hippie. No problemo senior, we love U and love learning from your work! Greetings from HOT Arizona.
Very good approach and epoxy is the best. Being from Michigan, I have been using West system products since the early 70's on a DIY basis. Back in the days of the "woodies" and in the fresh water Great Lakes. Ironically, the first repair I did was on a 13ft Boston Whaler. Great job.
Your videos are great, and I continue to watch to hopefully start reworking my 86 Hobie Power Skiff. Hoping to build that confidence, and your videos truly have helped me learn so much so far.
I absolutely love watching your videos and I have learned so much from you while working on my boat. Your last video was awesome as I am doing my transom as well. The 2x4's to spread the wood, thank you! I used four 2x2's to split my skin off. Thanks for making awesome tutorials. I am going to pour in Arjay 6101, instead of replacing the wood. You are seeing the same issue I have with the curvature.
Just found your channel today. I may be doing a nee transom on my 2001 Cobra Coosa bass boat this winter in the off season. I love your attention to detail and your tips and tricks. New sub here.
I have a baton manufacturer in my neighborhood and the tailings from all the sanding can be used for the epoxy filler. The stuff is loaded with fibergalss and hardened epoxy ground to a fine powder. You can make your own bondo flairing compound or epoxy thickening agent. It takes more filler than you think to thicken it otherwise it will oose out of holes and vertical surfaces
Your videos are great Andy!! Would love to see more, I'm starting a project soon where I'm taking a 20' open bow w/a IO and putting a small cabin up front, basically just for a head and a hard top, for fishing Lake Erie, it has a merc 120 that's old and tired so what id really like to do is change the transom around for a outboard motor, I'm looking for design ideas so if you can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated, btw I did a 6 year appenteship for wooden boat building back in the late 70's and have been watching your channel for fiberglass ideas, I've done several projects with fiberglass and it has been a success thanks to you!!!
I had the same issue on the whaler transom I restored using coosa board. I used a vacuum pump and bagged the transom to suck the coosa board tight against the existing structure. Some shaving of the outer layer was needed but 2yrs in its still going strong. Use two layers of 3/4” so it can be pieced in and seams overlapped.
Hi I see two different ways to Rebuild a transom, 1 ways is cutting the transom from the outside. Like this video. 2. Cutting the transom from inside. What determines which side you cut out before you rebuild?
I watch most of all your videos. And they are awesome. You should try some of that transom pore. I did it on a 20 foot Robalo 2 years ago I cut the whole back of the transom off just like you did got all the wood out fiberglass the piece back in poured that stuff in. I could hang 3 200hp Motors on it. Why put wood back in there and set yourself up for problems down the road
Hey buddy wondering why you still use plywood?? You should try using foam core its much lighter will never rott or soak up water! Great video regardless good job
I know this was a while ago, but... whaler didnt do what you did to originally install the transom. Maybe when you removed the old one, the gunwales caved in a bit? Much like when you do work to a car like rockers and such, you need to brace all the jambs before cutting out structure? I would have been curious to see measurements be taken before and after of the existing transom to see if it bowed when removed, great job though andy, love watching you videos, such a great help on all my projects!
I am a composite repair technician and work on wind turbine blades. I was wondering if you could have used some Balsa wood or hard foam on that transom. It is very lite and will bend easily and if you have a more rounded area then you can put slite cuts all through the foam or balsa to get it to bend to the proper shape. Then you can just fill in those cuts with thickened filler. It works great for us.
A lot of people criticize transom replacements from the outside. This job looks excellent and I showed it to the guys who did my job. Would you always replace from the outside or it was it just due to access reasons on this job?
Hi Andy, another great video thanks. Here's a question for you or a subject for a future video. How do you clean your tools and what is reusable? With all that epoxy and other chemical, what do you do so that they don't get ruined? Rollers, cups, brushes and so on. Cheers,
Plastic cups the epoxy just pops out after curing. Rollers and brushes are trash which is why he always recommends buying the cheap chip brushes and disposing of them after wards.
Not boat related, but you can install "raised surface" (RS) covers on your electrical outlet and switch boxes in you shop. It'll give it a finished look and help avoid having accidents due to the gaps in between the devices.
British Standard requires that plywood use certain durable glues between ply laminates, minimum criteria for number and sizes of void that can be present per unit area, quality of plies, etc.. it is actually a very good measure of the overall suitability of plywood for use in marine applications.
Scarfing the two might have got the bend you needed, we use that technique making Mackenzie Drift boats, although spot where this was would have been difficult to clamp
my dad showed me how to somewhat bend plywood, set a skill saw 1/32 of a inch deep then rip lines 1/8 inch apart all the way down, the wet complety with water and use a ratchet strap with a block of wood and bend to your project you want then let dry ..
Andy, I bought a abandoned sailboat with an oval opening in the bottom roughly 7" wide by 11"long through which the propeller base & prop extend thru. I have never seen this design before. The previous owner removed the engine and propeller base so now there is a open hole in the bottom of the boat located where you would expect to see a prop shaft exit the hull. I wish to close this opening permanently an use an outboard engine mounted on the stern. What is the best plan for closing this hole? This is a 25' Roberts sailboat. Photos of this boat are on sailboat data's Web site. They show this unusual engine/prop configuration. I purchased the sailboat trailer & got the project boat for free. It is a solid boat worth fixing. Thanks for any thoughts you can share.
Thank you so much, Andy. I’m following your advice on laying glass over the whole topside on a ‘68 Morgan 22. Top looks pretty straightforward but any suggestions on the deck to hull joint? Rub rail was shot / removed and that hull joint looks strong but UGLY. Any suggestions from you or your audience on best course of action?
last fall i replaced my transom with coosa board - its 100X better .vs marine plywood. manufacturer suggested pre-drilling motor mount holes, allowing epoxy/resin to evenly spread and escape as needed. good job
Have you ever tried one of those liquid transom products like carbon core? That way you don't have to worry about the differences in parallel on the transom surface.
I’m replacing a transom on a 1988 foxcraft, redoing stringers also, thanks for the video on that.. took top part of boat off to redo wiring also, cut transom off from inside to keep from cut outside of hull, my question is what type of resin and fiberglass do you recommend, will be putting the 75 mariner back on, any advice will be appreciated. Thanks again for the videos...
I just bought a similar array of Bessy clamps at a tag sale for a good price. I hope my transom repair is not this extensive. But at least I have the clamps if it is. :-)
OMG, You look EXACTLY like my brother except that he's bald. But I swear your face is a match to his. Oh and btw, I love your videos they have been very helpful while I restore a 1979 glastron 18.5 ft boat I bought 8 yrs ago and did nothing with.
With hindsight and your experience since this project, would you still do this repair with plywood, switch to Coosa like the Bertram, or do something else? Also, was this Whaler one of the Revenge models? Thanks. Hope your recovery is going well. Take care.
nice work, but i question its load bearing structural strength on the sides. in particular where the new transom marrys to the old (on the sides). considering the outboard engine pushing the transom, just my two cents. but if this is how its done, who am i to argue.
Bro good video you make it look easy but I'm still scared to rip into my old hydrosport probably just going to get a liquid transom cost more but it's what I'm comfortable with
Exactly how I did my hydra sport vector transom you was nice enough to give me advice on last summer turned out great thanks again and great vids oh except I highly recommend using bags because it’s a 🐻 to get em out lol
Hey Andy, many thanks for your videos, they have been most useful! Need the next part now!! :-) Also have a question for you; could you use Divinycell here instead of ply, would it give the same amount of strength?
Good work. I would have used 1/4" or 3/8" Coosa board Bluewater 26. Make a pattern with 1-1/2" x 1/8" strips of ply and a hot glue gun. After cutting the Coosa panels dry fit everything. Then use an 1/8" v notch trowel to apply your thickened epoxy to the lamination's. After assembling your transom build up of epoxy and Coosa laminations vacuum bag the whole thing with lots of breather to absorb epoxy squeeze out. This would have incorporated the convex curves and eliminated the wood. I have watched a lot of your videos, you need to add Coosa composite board to your arsenal. Amazing stuff you really cant live without.
Great video. I was wondering. For running stringers. Rather that using plywood. Could you use cellular PVC trim? Like from royal building products or that Lowes sells? I used it as a wood replacement for my outside window trim
I have learned a lot from and I love your channel. I would've solved this problem of bending the ply to conform to the inside skin by cutting a grid on the inside face of ply about 1/2 " deep and filling the kerfs and areas between w/ thickened epoxy. your ply in this case is just a core material.
I'm not a boat builder but it would be very easy to laminate 1/8" or 1/4" ply to those contours and built up with wpb glue or epoxy (as per AR103); you would have a strong and water resistant transom. You would then fill in the ply contours with fibreglass and epoxy - simples?
Unrelated question. I need to fill some stripped screw holes that hold my T-Top to my deck. I do not have access to the underneath to add plates. I am thinking of using thickened epoxy to fill existing holes and retapping them. Do you have any suggestions in what I should use to thicken or advice, Thanks. Love the Chanel.
BS1088 is normally hardwood veneer ply layers laminated together with waterproof glue. It will still rot if not waterproofed. A CD or DD (as in the face veneers grading) structural radiata pine Grade F11 plywood with A bond glue joins is fine as long as the whole sheet including edges is waterproofed prior to installation.
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Having to replace the wood on a transom on my project. Thanks for putting these up. Now off to watch you lay up the fiberglass on this Whaler.
Two worth-the-price-of-admission tips in one video. Nice work! :)
Danger Marine in the house! Nice 👍
Dangar Marine, between you and Boatworks Today, a lot of people are keeping their project boats afloat. Good to see you here!
Removing the wedges gave me howtobasic cooking flashbacks. Loved the video! Just replaced the transom on my fiberglass Jon boat. Thanks!!!❤
I always thought transom rebuilding would be a daunting task but, you made it look so easy. Thanks!
Back in the 80s I had a mobile Marine service I started. Did a lot of fiberglass repair sprayed all grip etc. I still love boats I just don't work on them anymore. I enjoy watching your videos and people are lucky you take your time to post them! Thank you for sharing.
I don’t have a boat or anything that needs repaired, these videos are strangely soothing... lol I can’t explain
Man I wish you could make more than one video a month. It’s so informative maybe you can just make them longer than this one!! Thanks for all you do in making these videos!! 👍👍👍🛥🚤⚓️
"Until next time, thanks for watchin man." Andy, once a hippie, always a hippie. No problemo senior, we love U and love learning from your work! Greetings from HOT Arizona.
I’ve become a better at fiberglassing because of your very talented work and videos. Thanks man.
Nice work Andy! Super informative! Making me glad there is no coring in my boat!
Very, VERY nicely done. Excellent attention to detail - it'll last another 20 years!!!!
There's more than one technique to rebuild a transom and at first I wasn't so sure but I must say I am impressed! I love your videos.
This is a perfect situation for sea cast.
I want to say thank Andy you have taught me so much and saved me a ton I really appreaciate it.
Really looking forward to the next video in this series.
Very good approach and epoxy is the best. Being from Michigan, I have been using West system products since the early 70's on a DIY basis. Back in the days of the "woodies" and in the fresh water Great Lakes. Ironically, the first repair I did was on a 13ft Boston Whaler.
Great job.
Doing a similar process on a 19.5 Grady White. Looking forward to future video on this repair. Thanks for sharing
Andy you're a wizard mate! I wish I waited another 6 months to do my transom, you've already done a heap of things that would have saved me weeks!
Thanks Andy, I am learning so much from your vids. Keep going mate.
Brotherly love all the way, I really like the guy.
Awesome work as usual. LOVE the pattern making. I know I saw you do it before. But it didn't sink in until now. beats my paper method. -Chad
Makes it look easy. Takes a lot of skill to do work like that.
Well done ... building up the layers to flush. That's a lot of miniscule detail work.
Your videos are great, and I continue to watch to hopefully start reworking my 86 Hobie Power Skiff. Hoping to build that confidence, and your videos truly have helped me learn so much so far.
I absolutely love watching your videos and I have learned so much from you while working on my boat. Your last video was awesome as I am doing my transom as well. The 2x4's to spread the wood, thank you! I used four 2x2's to split my skin off. Thanks for making awesome tutorials. I am going to pour in Arjay 6101, instead of replacing the wood. You are seeing the same issue I have with the curvature.
Hot glue on thin ply = template. Good idea!
Hey just to say your videos are awesome good work 👍🏻
Thank you again Andy, your vidio's make my day and further expand my knowledge.
Just found your channel today. I may be doing a nee transom on my 2001 Cobra Coosa bass boat this winter in the off season. I love your attention to detail and your tips and tricks. New sub here.
Excellent video! Thanks a million!
You make it look so easy
You say "man" because your a hip guy with a good program. Thanks for the videos
I like how you made that pattern. Cool idea.
Absolutely new to boat repair and enjoy your videos!! Keep up the great work!!
I have a baton manufacturer in my neighborhood and the tailings from all the sanding can be used for the epoxy filler. The stuff is loaded with fibergalss and hardened epoxy ground to a fine powder. You can make your own bondo flairing compound or epoxy thickening agent. It takes more filler than you think to thicken it otherwise it will oose out of holes and vertical surfaces
Nice work Andy. I suspect that there was a significant time acceleration of the belt sanding though.
Done the same thing with my tidecraft byou and you helped all the way trough, thanks Andy
Your videos are great Andy!! Would love to see more, I'm starting a project soon where I'm taking a 20' open bow w/a IO and putting a small cabin up front, basically just for a head and a hard top, for fishing Lake Erie, it has a merc 120 that's old and tired so what id really like to do is change the transom around for a outboard motor, I'm looking for design ideas so if you can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated, btw I did a 6 year appenteship for wooden boat building back in the late 70's and have been watching your channel for fiberglass ideas, I've done several projects with fiberglass and it has been a success thanks to you!!!
Great videos just wanted to say thanks for all the tips.
I had the same issue on the whaler transom I restored using coosa board. I used a vacuum pump and bagged the transom to suck the coosa board tight against the existing structure. Some shaving of the outer layer was needed but 2yrs in its still going strong. Use two layers of 3/4” so it can be pieced in and seams overlapped.
Great job like always 👍👍👍
Really quality job....
Hope all is well Andy just waiting on a awesome video from ya
When will you move away from plywood and start using foam/honeycomb etc as replacepment for plywood !
Thanks for sharing man.
I used hydrotek , vinylester, csm, 6oz clothe and sealed it all off with west systems, when I recored my 25 whalers deck panels.
Hi I see two different ways to Rebuild a transom, 1 ways is cutting the transom from the outside. Like this video. 2. Cutting the transom from inside. What determines which side you cut out before you rebuild?
I watch most of all your videos. And they are awesome. You should try some of that transom pore. I did it on a 20 foot Robalo 2 years ago I cut the whole back of the transom off just like you did got all the wood out fiberglass the piece back in poured that stuff in. I could hang 3 200hp Motors on it. Why put wood back in there and set yourself up for problems down the road
good work dude 👍🏼👍🏼 keep going ✌️watching you from kuwait 🇰🇼 😁
your a great craftsman
Really good job hi is the best
Another suggestion would be to make the outside skin and use pour foam made for transoms to fill in the void would out last the boat.
Enjoyed the video MAN!!
Love your video's MAN!! Cheers!
Hey buddy wondering why you still use plywood?? You should try using foam core its much lighter will never rott or soak up water! Great video regardless good job
Great job
I know this was a while ago, but... whaler didnt do what you did to originally install the transom. Maybe when you removed the old one, the gunwales caved in a bit? Much like when you do work to a car like rockers and such, you need to brace all the jambs before cutting out structure? I would have been curious to see measurements be taken before and after of the existing transom to see if it bowed when removed, great job though andy, love watching you videos, such a great help on all my projects!
I am a composite repair technician and work on wind turbine blades. I was wondering if you could have used some Balsa wood or hard foam on that transom. It is very lite and will bend easily and if you have a more rounded area then you can put slite cuts all through the foam or balsa to get it to bend to the proper shape. Then you can just fill in those cuts with thickened filler. It works great for us.
awesome video dude
Great video, man!
A lot of people criticize transom replacements from the outside. This job looks excellent and I showed it to the guys who did my job. Would you always replace from the outside or it was it just due to access reasons on this job?
Hi Andy, another great video thanks. Here's a question for you or a subject for a future video. How do you clean your tools and what is reusable? With all that epoxy and other chemical, what do you do so that they don't get ruined? Rollers, cups, brushes and so on.
Cheers,
Plastic cups the epoxy just pops out after curing. Rollers and brushes are trash which is why he always recommends buying the cheap chip brushes and disposing of them after wards.
Great work i appreciate your videos mate cheers
Great video man
Great channel
Not boat related, but you can install "raised surface" (RS) covers on your electrical outlet and switch boxes in you shop. It'll give it a finished look and help avoid having accidents due to the gaps in between the devices.
British Standard requires that plywood use certain durable glues between ply laminates, minimum criteria for number and sizes of void that can be present per unit area, quality of plies, etc.. it is actually a very good measure of the overall suitability of plywood for use in marine applications.
Scarfing the two might have got the bend you needed, we use that technique making Mackenzie Drift boats, although spot where this was would have been difficult to clamp
Andy have you ever used SeaCast to repair a transom this seems like the ideal candidate because of the weird shapes in this transom
The 3/16 plywood and hot glue is how we make templates for counter tops in custom kitchens.
my dad showed me how to somewhat bend plywood, set a skill saw 1/32 of a inch deep then rip lines 1/8 inch apart all the way down, the wet complety with water and use a ratchet strap with a block of wood and bend to your project you want then let dry ..
Yes new video
Andy, I bought a abandoned sailboat with an oval opening in the bottom roughly
7" wide by 11"long through which the propeller base & prop extend thru. I have never seen this design before. The previous owner removed the engine and propeller base so now there is a open hole in the bottom of the boat located where you would expect to see a prop shaft exit the hull. I wish to close this opening permanently an use an outboard engine mounted on the stern. What is the best plan for closing this hole? This is a 25' Roberts sailboat.
Photos of this boat are on sailboat data's Web site. They show this unusual engine/prop configuration. I purchased the sailboat trailer & got the project boat for free. It is a solid boat worth fixing.
Thanks for any thoughts you can share.
Thank you so much, Andy. I’m following your advice on laying glass over the whole topside on a ‘68 Morgan 22. Top looks pretty straightforward but any suggestions on the deck to hull joint? Rub rail was shot / removed and that hull joint looks strong but UGLY. Any suggestions from you or your audience on best course of action?
last fall i replaced my transom with coosa board - its 100X better .vs marine plywood. manufacturer suggested pre-drilling motor mount holes, allowing epoxy/resin to evenly spread and escape as needed. good job
Should use solid lumber and shape it with grinder and file for your bottom curves and compound angles.
Looks good to me.
Have you ever tried one of those liquid transom products like carbon core? That way you don't have to worry about the differences in parallel on the transom surface.
You could cut kerfs in the plywood so you can bend it a little
I’m replacing a transom on a 1988 foxcraft, redoing stringers also, thanks for the video on that.. took top part of boat off to redo wiring also, cut transom off from inside to keep from cut outside of hull, my question is what type of resin and fiberglass do you recommend, will be putting the 75 mariner back on, any advice will be appreciated. Thanks again for the videos...
I just bought a similar array of Bessy clamps at a tag sale for a good price. I hope my transom repair is not this extensive. But at least I have the clamps if it is. :-)
OMG, You look EXACTLY like my brother except that he's bald. But I swear your face is a match to his. Oh and btw, I love your videos they have been very helpful while I restore a 1979 glastron 18.5 ft boat I bought 8 yrs ago and did nothing with.
Well Done
I use sawdust from a palm sander mixed with epoxy. Bonus points for using sawdust from the same species. Dries a bit darker tan original wood.
With hindsight and your experience since this project, would you still do this repair with plywood, switch to Coosa like the Bertram, or do something else? Also, was this Whaler one of the Revenge models? Thanks. Hope your recovery is going well. Take care.
nice work, but i question its load bearing structural strength on the sides. in particular where the new transom marrys to the old (on the sides). considering the outboard engine pushing the transom, just my two cents. but if this is how its done, who am i to argue.
What's your thought on Seacast for a transom ??
Great video!! Do you have a video where you a replacing plywood in the floor similar to the transom?
Bro good video you make it look easy but I'm still scared to rip into my old hydrosport probably just going to get a liquid transom cost more but it's what I'm comfortable with
Exactly how I did my hydra sport vector transom you was nice enough to give me advice on last summer turned out great thanks again and great vids oh except I highly recommend using bags because it’s a 🐻 to get em out lol
Have you ever used sea cast for transom repair?
Hey Andy, many thanks for your videos, they have been most useful! Need the next part now!! :-) Also have a question for you; could you use Divinycell here instead of ply, would it give the same amount of strength?
Good work. I would have used 1/4" or 3/8" Coosa board Bluewater 26. Make a pattern with 1-1/2" x 1/8" strips of ply and a hot glue gun. After cutting the Coosa panels dry fit everything. Then use an 1/8" v notch trowel to apply your thickened epoxy to the lamination's. After assembling your transom build up of epoxy and Coosa laminations vacuum bag the whole thing with lots of breather to absorb epoxy squeeze out. This would have incorporated the convex curves and eliminated the wood. I have watched a lot of your videos, you need to add Coosa composite board to your arsenal. Amazing stuff you really cant live without.
Great video. I was wondering. For running stringers. Rather that using plywood. Could you use cellular PVC trim? Like from royal building products or that Lowes sells? I used it as a wood replacement for my outside window trim
I have learned a lot from and I love your channel. I would've solved this problem of bending the ply to conform to the inside skin by cutting a grid on the inside face of ply about 1/2 " deep and filling the kerfs and areas between w/ thickened epoxy. your ply in this case is just a core material.
I'm not a boat builder but it would be very easy to laminate 1/8" or 1/4" ply to those contours and built up with wpb glue or epoxy (as per AR103); you would have a strong and water resistant transom. You would then fill in the ply contours with fibreglass and epoxy - simples?
Unrelated question. I need to fill some stripped screw holes that hold my T-Top to my deck. I do not have access to the underneath to add plates. I am thinking of using thickened epoxy to fill existing holes and retapping them. Do you have any suggestions in what I should use to thicken or advice, Thanks. Love the Chanel.
Enjoyed the video. Very informative. Question, what is the average cost of getting a transom done on a fiberglass boat?
Great videos, Thanks !!!
BS1088 is normally hardwood veneer ply layers laminated together with waterproof glue. It will still rot if not waterproofed.
A CD or DD (as in the face veneers grading) structural radiata pine Grade F11 plywood with A bond glue joins is fine as long as the whole sheet including edges is waterproofed prior to installation.