I liked the speeded-up video. I think people can get overly bored with too many explanations and you had the right mix of explanations when the information was needed ... awesome Andy
I wish your videos were available 50 years ago when I was kid trying to fiberglass the seams on my old wooden Sailfish sailboat. I always had air pockets!
Dude thank you so much im 20 an bought a 64 holiday and im in the process of refurbishing it and you have a video dedicated to literally everything i need to be done. Ive been working in the boat trade for 3 years on inflatable dinghys repair and I'm really excited to use my new learned skill youve taught me to makr my boat stirdy, hole free and badass. Thank you sir
there's a good opportunity to use double sided tape, for rough sanding the hole edge, tape some 80 and 60 grit sand paper onto a few small blocks of wood. much quieter than the Pneumatic + flatter, less dusty, more plesant, probably faster and it will get right in the corner, if you cover one flat side and at least one edge of the block with the sandpaper.
Just a suggestion. In the surfboard world we do a hot coat of waxed resin that we brush on over top of our laminations. Wax additive is dirt cheap and you just add 3-4% by volume to your regular resin and catylize at 2%. You want it to fire off quickly. Brush it on quickly and then cross brush it once and walk away. It will level out to a smooth surface. This would save you the extra cost and extra steps of gel coat and PVA followed by having to clean the PVA off before future steps. For a project like this console this would have been a time saver.
Getting ready to restore my old 22ft speedboat and these videos have been so helpful im feeling very confident i can restore her back to her wanna be miami vice boat self again lol!thankyou so much
Best video to date !!! I like it when you just speed up the process and comment at the end . But how did that smiley face show up through all the layers . Magic I tell you !!!
You sir are a master of your craft... I picked up an older 1977 arrowglass and with the help of your videos I am confident I can patch the few spots where someone removed a ton of accessories and possibly more
Sometimes (Cut n Paste) work as I call this type of work, more relaxing and enjoyable then a simple layup job.... Some good tunes on the radio, a cup of your favorite beverage and bingo, all done..... It's like therapy for me, only difference, i'm always afraid of a PVA not being enough, so I overkill with a heavy coat of wax on the wood first, i've had the wood stick before when used as a backer..... I keep a gel coated 4 x 4 sheet of 4 ply 2oz flat sheet on hand for a backer to use instead of wood...... i make the flat sheet outta excess leftover resin, I can't stand having pucks of used resin laying around, like throwing out money..... GOOD JOB, Andy.............. signed Randy
If I had to do it again I probably would have done 3 coats of PVA, but this still worked out ;-) I'll admit, I was a little nervous about it though lol!
As a kid you probably had a Duncan yo-yo and whenever you "walked the dog" it would bounce as it moved forward. That's what came to my mind and I'm 60+. Nice job.
Excellent video this week! I like your approach with the wood backing and willingness to attempt something new for you on video for us to learn from as well. Looking forward to the fairing video!
Andy, I think it’s awesome you use Total Boat products. Why? Because Jamestown Distributors is tens minutes from my house! Easy access....lol. Love your stuff. I watch every week.
Would be great if Total Boat was readily available in the UK. When you do find somewhere they normally say its currently unavailable. You're excellent tutorials have converted to me to polyester now.. Have a sea boat project ready to start :-)
I had a thought that maybe could be helpful. Maybe for the next repair with similar circumstances, mount the ply backer on the pretty side, and lay up from the inside, that way the pretty side would assume the flat shape of the plywood and save you some fairing? Just an idea, enjoyed as always!
Loved this video. This is the kind of stuff I’ve been asking for. And how to fill screw holes in transom areas. Your channel is so helpful. Thanks Andy!!!!
Thanks Andy! I have a couple old speakers installed through similar fiberglass in the back of my sailboat cockpit. I had thought about pulling the speakers and covering the holes with starboard. This seems like a much nicer alternative! Thanks!
That came out nice. When I have done similar repairs I made up a piece of what I call prefab. That is I waxed a piece of glass I had and laid up glass to the thickness of the material I was repairing on the glass. Then I cut out a piece to fit the hole and tabbed it in from the back. On the front I ground a bevel around the perimeter using an angle grinder since I don't have one of those spiffy mini belt sanders and glassed the perimeter of the repair. The advantage of doing that was that most of the surface needed no fairing since the glass gave a very smooth surface. Only the perimeter needed fairing. Just another way of doing that repair.
I'd bet that if 5 people did this same repair, there would be 5 different approaches ;-)! Lots of ways to accomplish an end result. Hope you're having a great weekend Todd!
Andy, Great job as always. I’ll be facing a similar situation in the future so looking forward to see how it turns out. Then of course doing a self assessment on the whether or not I can do it myself!
Enjoyed the video, the good news is after watching the most of your videos the majority of your material choice and techniques are becoming familiar. Always like the new tips and new materials you present. One minor observation, not sure a chisel and hammer working towards your tummy is good for the average weekend warrior, odds are good that one won’t impale then selves but not all chisel operators have your skill.
Nice. One thing that I have done with old consoles is to laminate a layer of 1708 onto plywood, and apply it like the video, but leave it in as a core. I've never been cool enough to have a Bertram though.
In awe watching a master at his craft. You mentioned your console is 1/8" thick. Would the same procedure apply to identical repairs on 1/2" and 1" thick bulkheads? Thanks for your thoughts Andy!
Andy I know you like to put gelcoat over most of you glass repairs for a couple of reasons. One to cure the polyester resin as well as it helps to fill in any little voids in the lay up. Why did you put PVA on top of the gelcoat?
For the large flat area I was thinking sheet glass G10 or the like cut to fit and resin bonded in. 1/8 in or 3/16 in thick. Perfectly flat no fairing just finish coat. The glass sheet materials are very useful for flat areas like this, no good for curved ones. It may be harder a material to make cutouts but that’s just a few more jig saw blades spent. You spent a lot of time doing the job with the plywood form, cloth and resin. Just saying. I’ve used G10 also to make a picture frame when a new 9 in. multifunction display needed a smaller opening than the one it replaced. 1/8 in thick cut it in one piece from sheet but could have done it in strips on the four sides then butted and bonded, round over the edges.
Andy, awesome work! When you finished glassing the holes, why didn’t you sand the edges smooth before applying gelcoat? I always thought that gelcoat should be the final top later? I see why you’re going to fair the surfaces but I thought you’d have sanded, faired, sanded then applied gelcoat last? Is the gelcoat at this midpoint just something for the fairing compound to adhere to?
Great video. Wish there was a way to get total boat products in Canada. I have a lot of fairing in my near future and really like how easy the total boat product looked to work with. The west system fairing compound is very hard, so sanding takes a lot of time.
I wish that was the case too... but the West System fairing compounds can be made softer through use of different fillers. There is one (410) with microbeads that almost comes off with your bare hands (well I'm exaggerating a bit but it is no problem whatsoever to sand to a perfect finish). Of course it has no structural rigidity so get it close with something like 404,405 or 406 for bonding and gap filling and then finish it off with 407/410 for fairing.
If you live anywhere near Niagara Falls, open an account with CBIUSA. Then ship there for warehousing everything you need for project. pickup when all items have arrived and take it across the border personally. No problems what with the hazmat rules that commercial transports face.
Hello Andy how are you,was just wondering of you could help me out. I have a 1971 Trojan 32 with a flybridge. I have a few spots up toward the bow and over the cabin area that I would like to reinforce. The fiberglass seems very week t in these spots. What type of glass and resin should I use? Also would it be a good idea just to overlay it with new fiber glass. Thanks for your time. Your videos are GREAT!!!
Ok I watched it again and answered my own question, the gelcoat did not have the wax in it and that's why you put the PVA on so as to cure the gelcoat... However I have another question. Did you remove the wood or was that a different part of the console?
Andy, can you please explain the use of the layer of unwaxed gelcoat and PVA prior to the next step which is fairing? Why not apply the fairing straight onto to the glassed 1708? Is there an issue with the Total Boat fairing compound sticking to the polyresin straight up and hence why you're using the gelcoat? And I'm assuming the PVA is assisting the gelcoat in curing since you'll be washing it off prior to the fairing.
What type of wheel or slitting blade was used to cut the original instrument panel from the helm? What model belt sander where you using? Makita? What width belt? Thanks.
Can you please make a video how to repaire this type of bigger holes only if you have acces only one side. I have a double skin boat,and i need to fix holes in bottom,but havent access from inside. I dont find any video on youtube how to do that. Regards
I have searched your videos and not found anything on replacing sections of floor I have some soft spots in my 1967 26’ Alglass Wahoo center console are there any videos on this?
Great stuff Andy! What was used to adhear the wood to the fiberglass originally? I've had to remove 8 portlights and the plywood backing on my Cascade 27 due to seepage and rot. Now that all of the wood is removed, and the weather is getting warmer, I'm looking to the next part of the project, rebuilding. Is just plain epoxy used to stick the new ply to the fiberglass shell? Thanks!
I always learn something new when watching these videos! Can you make a video about the cleaning up process? I notice you had a lot of left over resin in one of the first layups. Did you just toss the whole cup and extra resin or do you try to clean the cups for re-use. How do you clean the resin off the rollers and other tools?
Hi Andy, enjoy watching your vedoes. Thank you for all the veds. One question seeking your advice, really, please. Would you advise applying new layer of gelcoat over old gelcoat, of course after light sanding over old gelcoat?
I know this is a older video. But I'm trying the same thing how do you keep the 1708 from stretching out . I measured twice and it turned out thinner and longer.
Is the "Coverall" liquid you used after the white gel coat to assist in the gel coat curing without being stick because you used no-wax gel coat? Just wondering.
Can this same concept be used on modifying the shape of any existing console? Iwant to take my production center console, and make the top half about 10" taller to accept flush mounted electronics. Any recommendations on that?
Andy Hi i just bought a jet boat that has a cpl spots on the bow of the boat that look like peel spots one the edges of the spot they are hard, it seems like it could keep coming up if you were to use something like your fingernail and pick at it, how would I go about fixing this? do these spots need to be sanded? or can i just use a rubbing compound on them? any feedback would be great, Thank you
I'm going to be doing this to the cutout for my throttle control lever. Would you do the same process, even if you had no access to the backside of the cutout? I can get a piece of plywood in there, but there's not enough access to glass the inside. What would you recommend? Would 2-3 layers of biaxial glass be enough?
Andy, I have a ham cover that is grey. The top has had years of holes put in it some large and they have covered the holes with duct tape : (. Even worse the pattern is leather. What do I do to try to replicate leather?
Andy, Thanks for giving me the courage to take on my boat projects. I have a request or maybe a viewer can give advice. I would really like to ad a couple port lights to the hull of a 40' sailboat to give a view of the water and light. Since it will not be opening, is it possible to just cut the hole and mount the 3/8ths Acrylic to the outside with a 1" overlap? Does it have to be recessed into the fiberglass like a factory job? Was thinking I could shape the slight curve with a heat gun, use the double sided tape and/or Dow 795. Some say blots cause cracks with the expansion. My main question is, can it be safely added to the outside of the fiberglass hull and protrude the 3/8"? Thinking 18" wide x 6" high. Thanks!
Can you say how you’d adjust the approach with not having access to the backside? I have to downsize my mfd cutouts. Thanks for all the great lessons!!
Some times what I do if there is no access. Is pre lay a single layer of glass 1708 onto a piece of waxed melamine. Hand sand aggressively the backside through whatever little opening you have. Place a screw in the center with a string attaches. Mix up a structural putty (Not runny). Flex the thin layer through the hole keeping the string in hand. Apply putty to the piece and pull upward anchoring the string to whatever you can come up with. Let cure, remove screw, and prep the out side to glass. Good luck.
I tried the PVA directly on plywood backer...it didn't work AT ALL. It stuck almost as well as a direct laminate. The only way I've had luck is taping the plywood, then spraying PVA on the taped/plastic'd plywood. Best I can figure: The PVA is absorbed too easily by the plywood, making the "sacrificial" layer of PVA non-existent on the exterior of the plywood.
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
I liked the speeded-up video. I think people can get overly bored with too many explanations and you had the right mix of explanations when the information was needed ... awesome Andy
YOUR VIDEOS HAVE HELPED ME OUT, IM MUCH MORE BRAVER NOW THANK YOU - ALL THE BEST OLLY - FROM THE UK
I wish your videos were available 50 years ago when I was kid trying to fiberglass the seams on my old wooden Sailfish sailboat. I always had air pockets!
Dude thank you so much im 20 an bought a 64 holiday and im in the process of refurbishing it and you have a video dedicated to literally everything i need to be done. Ive been working in the boat trade for 3 years on inflatable dinghys repair and I'm really excited to use my new learned skill youve taught me to makr my boat stirdy, hole free and badass. Thank you sir
there's a good opportunity to use double sided tape, for rough sanding the hole edge, tape some 80 and 60 grit sand paper onto a few small blocks of wood. much quieter than the Pneumatic + flatter, less dusty, more plesant, probably faster and it will get right in the corner, if you cover one flat side and at least one edge of the block with the sandpaper.
Just a suggestion. In the surfboard world we do a hot coat of waxed resin that we brush on over top of our laminations. Wax additive is dirt cheap and you just add 3-4% by volume to your regular resin and catylize at 2%. You want it to fire off quickly. Brush it on quickly and then cross brush it once and walk away. It will level out to a smooth surface. This would save you the extra cost and extra steps of gel coat and PVA followed by having to clean the PVA off before future steps. For a project like this console this would have been a time saver.
Who uses poly in surfboards?? Just use epoxy for surfboards
Loved the time lapse with your voice over. Very effective. Thanks.
Awesome video. Thank you.
Getting ready to restore my old 22ft speedboat and these videos have been so helpful im feeling very confident i can restore her back to her wanna be miami vice boat self again lol!thankyou so much
”Anything worth doing is worth overdoing” love it! :)
Great video, explains each step well
Best video to date !!! I like it when you just speed up the process and comment at the end . But how did that smiley face show up through all the layers . Magic I tell you !!!
Can’t wait for the fairing video. Thanks Andy for publishing these videos.
You sir are a master of your craft... I picked up an older 1977 arrowglass and with the help of your videos I am confident I can patch the few spots where someone removed a ton of accessories and possibly more
Great to watch your work Andy, just the correct amount of information interspersed with the ongoing repairs.
awesome fiberglass tutorial as always
Sometimes (Cut n Paste) work as I call this type of work, more relaxing and enjoyable then a simple layup job.... Some good tunes on the radio, a cup of your favorite beverage and bingo, all done..... It's like therapy for me, only difference, i'm always afraid of a PVA not being enough, so I overkill with a heavy coat of wax on the wood first, i've had the wood stick before when used as a backer..... I keep a gel coated 4 x 4 sheet of 4 ply 2oz flat sheet on hand for a backer to use instead of wood...... i make the flat sheet outta excess leftover resin, I can't stand having pucks of used resin laying around, like throwing out money..... GOOD JOB, Andy.............. signed Randy
If I had to do it again I probably would have done 3 coats of PVA, but this still worked out ;-) I'll admit, I was a little nervous about it though lol!
Don’t know why but I just love watching your vids. Keep up the good work!
As a kid you probably had a Duncan yo-yo and whenever you "walked the dog" it would bounce as it moved forward. That's what came to my mind and I'm 60+. Nice job.
Turned out nice, good job on the plywood backer.
Nice work and thanks for sharing Andy
Thanks Andy. I got a 17 footer in Australia and your videos are extremely helpful. I need to do this to my centre console !
Great video
Spent almost my whole weekend watching your videos mate, awesome job. Thanks
Very much enjoyed your video and demonstration. Well done. Thank you.
Great video Andy thanks for sharing. Like the backing music too.
great editing and sound tracks
Best video yet. Less talking and more action! You’re heading in the right direction
Love your show. Thanks for all the tips.
Starboard panels for the win
I love your work 👍👍
thanks for the backer tip
Excellent video this week! I like your approach with the wood backing and willingness to attempt something new for you on video for us to learn from as well. Looking forward to the fairing video!
Andy, I think it’s awesome you use Total Boat products. Why? Because Jamestown Distributors is tens minutes from my house! Easy access....lol. Love your stuff. I watch every week.
Would be great if Total Boat was readily available in the UK. When you do find somewhere they normally say its currently unavailable. You're excellent tutorials have converted to me to polyester now.. Have a sea boat project ready to start :-)
Once again! A great video! Makes me want to glass something!!!
I had a thought that maybe could be helpful. Maybe for the next repair with similar circumstances, mount the ply backer on the pretty side, and lay up from the inside, that way the pretty side would assume the flat shape of the plywood and save you some fairing? Just an idea, enjoyed as always!
Sunday is funday, and video from you 🚤💨 Love it! From Norway 🇳🇴
Hey Andy, watch out for that sanding disk.
Loved this video. This is the kind of stuff I’ve been asking for. And how to fill screw holes in transom areas. Your channel is so helpful. Thanks Andy!!!!
your background music is great!
Excellent as always!
Thanks Andy! I have a couple old speakers installed through similar fiberglass in the back of my sailboat cockpit. I had thought about pulling the speakers and covering the holes with starboard. This seems like a much nicer alternative! Thanks!
Love the video thanks for taking us along
That came out nice. When I have done similar repairs I made up a piece of what I call prefab. That is I waxed a piece of glass I had and laid up glass to the thickness of the material I was repairing on the glass. Then I cut out a piece to fit the hole and tabbed it in from the back. On the front I ground a bevel around the perimeter using an angle grinder since I don't have one of those spiffy mini belt sanders and glassed the perimeter of the repair. The advantage of doing that was that most of the surface needed no fairing since the glass gave a very smooth surface. Only the perimeter needed fairing. Just another way of doing that repair.
I'd bet that if 5 people did this same repair, there would be 5 different approaches ;-)! Lots of ways to accomplish an end result. Hope you're having a great weekend Todd!
Yeah, I am sure everyone has their own method.
It worked out well!!! Lookin great!!
Hi, can you fibreglass on top of plastic. Great view, thanks
Andy, Great job as always. I’ll be facing a similar situation in the future so looking forward to see how it turns out. Then of course doing a self assessment on the whether or not I can do it myself!
keep yourself safe young man wear a mask, these things tend to catch up with us later in life!!! great channel though keep up the good work,
Enjoyed the video, the good news is after watching the most of your videos the majority of your material choice and techniques are becoming familiar. Always like the new tips and new materials you present. One minor observation, not sure a chisel and hammer working towards your tummy is good for the average weekend warrior, odds are good that one won’t impale then selves but not all chisel operators have your skill.
and I've never met anyone who can make a hammer sound like a machine gun before. LOL. Great vid, Andy, as always...
I am doing a 19 foot bow rider right now. The bottom three quarters up.
Excelente Andy! como siempre!!
Gracias!
Nice. One thing that I have done with old consoles is to laminate a layer of 1708 onto plywood, and apply it like the video, but leave it in as a core. I've never been cool enough to have a Bertram though.
Finally, I got a hole on my Mako console at least that big I've been trying to figure out how to fix. This will do the trick. Thanks
We gotta wait for the fairing? Oh the suspense is killing me!
In awe watching a master at his craft. You mentioned your console is 1/8" thick. Would the same procedure apply to identical repairs on 1/2" and 1" thick bulkheads? Thanks for your thoughts Andy!
Andy I know you like to put gelcoat over most of you glass repairs for a couple of reasons. One to cure the polyester resin as well as it helps to fill in any little voids in the lay up. Why did you put PVA on top of the gelcoat?
For the large flat area I was thinking sheet glass G10 or the like cut to fit and resin bonded in. 1/8 in or 3/16 in thick. Perfectly flat no fairing just finish coat. The glass sheet materials are very useful for flat areas like this, no good for curved ones. It may be harder a material to make cutouts but that’s just a few more jig saw blades spent. You spent a lot of time doing the job with the plywood form, cloth and resin. Just saying. I’ve used G10 also to make a picture frame when a new 9 in. multifunction display needed a smaller opening than the one it replaced. 1/8 in thick cut it in one piece from sheet but could have done it in strips on the four sides then butted and bonded, round over the edges.
Apparently, the pva/plywood test worked. Would you expand on how it went, please?
Great video Andy thanks for sharing. Like the backing music too. Could I ask who the artist is?
I’m ready for part 2 of this video. Lol. How did it come out???
Andy what does the PVA do after you put it on the gel coat.
Walking the dog with Bob Ross and polyester resin, how about adding a couple of friendly trees .
Andy, awesome work! When you finished glassing the holes, why didn’t you sand the edges smooth before applying gelcoat? I always thought that gelcoat should be the final top later? I see why you’re going to fair the surfaces but I thought you’d have sanded, faired, sanded then applied gelcoat last? Is the gelcoat at this midpoint just something for the fairing compound to adhere to?
Great video. Wish there was a way to get total boat products in Canada. I have a lot of fairing in my near future and really like how easy the total boat product looked to work with. The west system fairing compound is very hard, so sanding takes a lot of time.
I wish that was the case too... but the West System fairing compounds can be made softer through use of different fillers. There is one (410) with microbeads that almost comes off with your bare hands (well I'm exaggerating a bit but it is no problem whatsoever to sand to a perfect finish). Of course it has no structural rigidity so get it close with something like 404,405 or 406 for bonding and gap filling and then finish it off with 407/410 for fairing.
If you live anywhere near Niagara Falls, open an account with CBIUSA. Then ship there for warehousing everything you need for project. pickup when all items have arrived and take it across the border personally. No problems what with the hazmat rules that commercial transports face.
Try using brown parcel tape. Nothing sticks to it! Done it many times.
Hello Andy how are you,was just wondering of you could help me out. I have a 1971 Trojan 32 with a flybridge. I have a few spots up toward the bow and over the cabin area that I would like to reinforce. The fiberglass seems very week t in these spots. What type of glass and resin should I use? Also would it be a good idea just to overlay it with new fiber glass.
Thanks for your time. Your videos are GREAT!!!
We here in Australia 🇦🇺 call removing the air with a brush,stippling...
Noticed that you removed plywood that support for steering wheel. You didn't replace this so how thick did you build up the fibreglass?
Ok I watched it again and answered my own question, the gelcoat did not have the wax in it and that's why you put the PVA on so as to cure the gelcoat... However I have another question. Did you remove the wood or was that a different part of the console?
Use PVA coated Formica, instead of ply, works better.
Andy, can you please explain the use of the layer of unwaxed gelcoat and PVA prior to the next step which is fairing? Why not apply the fairing straight onto to the glassed 1708? Is there an issue with the Total Boat fairing compound sticking to the polyresin straight up and hence why you're using the gelcoat? And I'm assuming the PVA is assisting the gelcoat in curing since you'll be washing it off prior to the fairing.
What type of wheel or slitting blade was used to cut the original instrument panel from the helm? What model belt sander where you using? Makita? What width belt? Thanks.
Can you please make a video how to repaire this type of bigger holes only if you have acces only one side. I have a double skin boat,and i need to fix holes in bottom,but havent access from inside.
I dont find any video on youtube how to do that.
Regards
What is that catalyst measuring cup you have, so much easier than counting 10 drops at a time!
Would this method work for other "holes" such as smaller old hatch openings?
I have searched your videos and not found anything on replacing sections of floor I have some soft spots in my 1967 26’ Alglass Wahoo center console are there any videos on this?
Why the gelcoat down before farring compound? I imagine its like paint it would go on top of everything at the end. What am i missing?
Belt & Suspenders. Ever see a John Wayne movie? He did that overkill too. 🤣
what is the wait time between the fiberglass resin & applying the gelcoat?
Great stuff Andy! What was used to adhear the wood to the fiberglass originally? I've had to remove 8 portlights and the plywood backing on my Cascade 27 due to seepage and rot. Now that all of the wood is removed, and the weather is getting warmer, I'm looking to the next part of the project, rebuilding. Is just plain epoxy used to stick the new ply to the fiberglass shell?
Thanks!
Andy do u always have to Pva gelcoat or can u just gelcoat and be done but I was gonna use gelcoat with wax
I always learn something new when watching these videos!
Can you make a video about the cleaning up process? I notice you had a lot of left over resin in one of the first layups. Did you just toss the whole cup and extra resin or do you try to clean the cups for re-use. How do you clean the resin off the rollers and other tools?
Hi Andy, enjoy watching your vedoes. Thank you for all the veds. One question seeking your advice, really, please. Would you advise applying new layer of gelcoat over old gelcoat, of course after light sanding over old gelcoat?
I know this is a older video. But I'm trying the same thing how do you keep the 1708 from stretching out . I measured twice and it turned out thinner and longer.
Is the "Coverall" liquid you used after the white gel coat to assist in the gel coat curing without being stick because you used no-wax gel coat? Just wondering.
Can this same concept be used on modifying the shape of any existing console? Iwant to take my production center console, and make the top half about 10" taller to accept flush mounted electronics. Any recommendations on that?
Andy Hi i just bought a jet boat that has a cpl spots on the bow of the boat that look like peel spots one the edges of the spot they are hard, it seems like it could keep coming up if you were to use something like your fingernail and pick at it, how would I go about fixing this? do these spots need to be sanded? or can i just use a rubbing compound on them? any feedback would be great, Thank you
Andy, why Gel Coat with out wax?
I'm going to be doing this to the cutout for my throttle control lever. Would you do the same process, even if you had no access to the backside of the cutout? I can get a piece of plywood in there, but there's not enough access to glass the inside. What would you recommend? Would 2-3 layers of biaxial glass be enough?
Andy, I have a ham cover that is grey. The top has had years of holes put in it some large and they have covered the holes with duct tape : (. Even worse the pattern is leather. What do I do to try to replicate leather?
Hi Andy , is it possible you think to use plastic wrap instead of PVA?
Andy, Thanks for giving me the courage to take on my boat projects. I have a request or maybe a viewer can give advice. I would really like to ad a couple port lights to the hull of a 40' sailboat to give a view of the water and light. Since it will not be opening, is it possible to just cut the hole and mount the 3/8ths Acrylic to the outside with a 1" overlap? Does it have to be recessed into the fiberglass like a factory job?
Was thinking I could shape the slight curve with a heat gun, use the double sided tape and/or Dow 795. Some say blots cause cracks with the expansion. My main question is, can it be safely added to the outside of the fiberglass hull and protrude the 3/8"? Thinking 18" wide x 6" high. Thanks!
Can you say how you’d adjust the approach with not having access to the backside? I have to downsize my mfd cutouts. Thanks for all the great lessons!!
Some times what I do if there is no access. Is pre lay a single layer of glass 1708 onto a piece of waxed melamine. Hand sand aggressively the backside through whatever little opening you have. Place a screw in the center with a string attaches. Mix up a structural putty (Not runny). Flex the thin layer through the hole keeping the string in hand. Apply putty to the piece and pull upward anchoring the string to whatever you can come up with. Let cure, remove screw, and prep the out side to glass. Good luck.
I tried the PVA directly on plywood backer...it didn't work AT ALL. It stuck almost as well as a direct laminate. The only way I've had luck is taping the plywood, then spraying PVA on the taped/plastic'd plywood. Best I can figure: The PVA is absorbed too easily by the plywood, making the "sacrificial" layer of PVA non-existent on the exterior of the plywood.
Nice job... how many brushes do you go through in a project like this?
what brand of scissors are you using?
Is there any guideline on how many layers of glass to use as an absolute minimum on repairs like this?
nice job. but why not use peel ply instead of going to the trouble of gelcoating than pva
What kind of half-moon blade is that? My diamond grit blade is not that effective. Thanks!