I have one I bought for my old trailer, I just don't like the idea of self taping/drilling for wires through the roof. it may be silly, but the idea has bothered me too much to put it on.
@@Taylordrifts Try some brackets off the side of the roof to mount solar panels (where sides and roof meet). It avoids the holes in roof leaking scenario, plus might be a little more stable.
@@Taylordrifts That's a valid concern. You could always add some plug in leads coming out of the trailer somewhere down low and just use the panel with some legs on the ground for a day if the battery is starting to get low (but then you have to worry about carrying it around somewhere in the trailer and it getting in the way).
@@Taylordrifts would also be a "free" way to keep your tool batteries topped up. Get one of the Milwaukee vehicle chargers and cut the end off and wire it to the batteries
You might want to add a little switch to the usb charger/voltage indicator! Help to prevent battery drain for when the trailer is parked in between events.
For your trailer jacks, you would probably do better if you used the Milwaukee Hole Hawg right angle drill. It's made more specifically for high torque loads and easier to handle.
Meanwhile, TJ Hunt has an entire nascar magnaflow hauler for drift events lol one of the many reasons you're one of my favorite channels, very simple, with a ton of talent.
2 years with that trailer!?!?! Where does the time go! Enjoy watching the upgrades. Ramps are genius. Cool idea would be to put solar panels on the roof of the trailer with the appropriate solar maintainer to keep the batteries topped up. We use it on our boat dock and it is super helpful!
just put a sprocket on the tube connecting the jacks, then make a mount for the motor. put a chain on it and let it rip. the closer u put the sprocket to the jack the less flex/binding youll end up with.
On the voltage meter, you may want to consider putting it on the other side of the breakers so that it is only on when they are on. I know that it only uses a tiny trickle, but over months it could drain you down some. The whole setup looks great, the "electric jack" you have to be careful with, I have jacked up my wrists before with drills that jump around like that, but it is a great "good enough" solution.
A couple of suggestions; 1. Trailer legs going down - hold the drill trigger in your left hand, brace against the rotation with your right. 2. A more powerful drill/battery combo (or a high torque corded drill) will last a lot longer with the force required on the jacks. Love the upgrades.
first thing i did to my little 5x10 open utility. start modding it. lol its equipped to have every thing you need, no matter what vehicle tows it. necessary adapters in place so if my father wants to tow with his 4pin plug it has a 4 to 7 adapter to hook up to my trailer that is converted to 7pin witing
One thing I really think you should do to your trailer is have the guys who wrapped the Corvette do a matching wrap for the trailer 👍. But on the other hand it does match the truck as it is. One upgrade I would do is a really good awning, unless it already has one.
On my prior RV, I had a back up cam that was blue tooth to a separate screen. I took power from the clearance lights. amazing how nice it is to see behind you going down the road
I love trailer history stories. When I was in a band in high school we bought a home made steel strap and wooden enclosed trailer for our gear. Thing was tall as hell and was built all the way on the other end of the country and used to haul suits of chain and plate mail to renaissance festivals. When we were done with it and sold it, we ended up selling it to a dude who was just buying it temporarily to move back out to the west coast so in the end it got to go back home! lol just weird lil trailer stories~
I'm a tractor mechanic. One day we had a new guy disconnect a trailer from a downed to truck to do a swap. kid left the landing legs up and dropped a 53ft loaded trailer . Luckily it was only a few inches below the fifth wheel but we were still cracking for like 20 minutes not going to lie I thought about trying my impact gun to see what it would do 😂
I welded a nut to my jack on my bumper trailer and use an impact. But I'm always afraid the impacting will shear the rod. For yours, I'd find a way to have the drill index to the trailer so you don't have to "break your wrist"
I meant to say this on the last video of the trailer remodeling, but I had a thought about the tire situation. Could you buy/build some slide out tracks that sit in the loft and find a way to place the tires in upright, you can slide it out and grab the tires when you need them and have them out of your way. Just a thought I had.
Hey Taylor, Renogy is a trusted brand BUT I would highly recommend just going with a solar generator setup! You’ll have plenty of 12v on most setups, and you’ll have an inverter for who knows what! Then when you install those solar panels (I recommend mounting to the sides with a bracket and then running the cabling to the front with a drip loop that then goes into the trailer) you’ll have tons of power available! Would make it more feasible to use for camping at track when necessary too. Either way, love it!
If your trailer doesn't have it...there is a pin in the rv 7 flat from the truck to trailer plug (big center pin i belive) that you can add reverse lights that will come on when you put your truck in reverse...game changer I put them on my trailers never fails to not have a good spotter in the dark..
Love the upgrades. Thanks for getting some paint on those rear panels. I would definitely look at an option for solar. Like some others have said, you could use a portable solution and just hook them up at the track. This would keep your batteries topped up, and remove the leak risk. Some sailers use flexible panels that are bonded to the surface rather than screwed in. Then you could go through the side, or if the wires are thin enough, run a small conduct down the side, and run the wire under the goose neck area. It's not as sexy, but it makes it easier to keep the water out.
You could potentially weld in a bridging section between the inside edge of the ramps so that you can lift them up and back simultaneously and you could add a bonnet pin type situation or something similar to the deck in order to retain the ramps when stowed?
Hey Taylor…Milwaukee tool lab technician here. Slap a high output battery in that drill and you’ll have substantially more sustained torque for raising your trailer. Those batteries are designed for long duration high load applications. As always, love your videos and thanks for the constant entertainment!
That drill setup worked pretty well...look into a Milwaukee Hole Hawg. It's a larger right angle drill, much easier to hold and it will hold up to that much better than the cordless drill. Since you already have the m18 batteries, it's a great tool to have
One more addition that will give you more peace of mind when towing. Add 1 camera in the front and 1 in the rear of the trailer on the inside. You could check for movement on the inside. Also, even more important fire inside the trailer. A friend had cameras inside and caught a fire starting and saved his toys. Just a thought. Enjoy the video
For the jacks, I'm sure you could rig something up with a higher torque drill and a handle with more leverage, for the same cost as that system. Think how they used to start Indy/F1 cars with an external motor. Or something with a winch and a chain drive, but that would be way more involved.
The trailer mods are awesome! I really enjoy seeing your drifting content and builds but I also love general upgrading/workshop etc videos that you do, I have learnt so much from you and so many little small things I wouldn't have thought about! Keep up the awesome work!
The stow away winch is good future upgrade. Also maybe a small generator to charge the batteries. Possibly hide it where the jacks are or tuck it up underneath with the fifth wheel is
That thing is badass. I second the suggestion to add a switch to the USB/Voltmeter. It is a constant drain on the batteries. I would also suggest putting a strap on those slot rails at the very back to catch the ramps if the screw was to back out. Wouldn’t create any extra work with loading and unloading since you can string it across the back before closing the ramp. If one of those screws backed out, you don’t want to drop it and find out one of the ramps were smacking into the rear of the car.
Trailer tire monitor is a must and only 2nd to good quality trailer tires. In regards to trailer tires, the 1 weakness of pressure/temp sensors are cheap tires that de-tread and usually don't loose air fast enough or heat up fast enough to trip the monitoring system before the damage is already done. Trailer King tires, aka china bombs, are notorious for this. Tire age is also something to really keep an eye on. Many trailer tires age out well before you wear the tread down like a passenger vehicle typical does. We got our first travel trailer about 4 years ago and made the investment in the TST 507 system. Such a great piece of mind. No more guessing or wondering if everything is good. Now, were towing double the weight with our 5th wheel and the sensors are still working great.
No need to grind back before you put the rivets in. You just risk rippling stuff when you pull the rivets up. If you’re worried about them being flush then get some countersunk ones - with the warning that they pull through way more easily.
I’ve made quite a few drill jack adaptors, I’ve always called them the lazy truck driver tool. It works much better with legs that have a high/ low gear selection
You could have put the motor in between the 2 jacks on the shaft. If you make a new pipe that is 1" ID with a 3/4" ID bushing you can also keep the old pipe to reverse the mod if you have/ want to
Its prob6a lot of upgrading work but what about air bags on the back of the truck. That's what we have, then you just put landing gear down til barely touching, drop the airbags, and pull her out! Just a thought. Plus the air ride suspension cruising down the highway.
Hey Taylor, have you considered getting something like an EcoFlow Delta pro? Its 3.6KWh, Lithium Iron Phosphate, outputs up to 3600w, can generate 1600w of solar, it can charge off of 12v (at a low rate), hooks up to a generator that can auto start-stop if the battery is low, and a ton of other stuff.The battery is good for over 10 years of charge cycles I feel like you never having to worry about electricity when you're out filming would probably be beneficial. Do be warned, its not cheap (and no i don't work for ecoflow) :p
I like the ramps. The new batteries make good sense. The backup camera and tire sensors should be standard for safety. I would have added solar panels that would lay flat to the top of the trailer to keep the batteries charged. Only need a couple along with controller. It be a big add in value if you ever wanted to resell it haven’t it’s own power.
Next step ideas. Solar panels to roof for offgrid power. Relocate batteries and electronics to the Jack enclosure and add air compressor there too. Add bigger inverter for power tools and maybe a fridge. AC to the roof for those hot days. Awning over the side door side and led lights.
If you want to just get to the tpm sensor or any valve stem and not remove the whole tire so you don’t have to balance them again you can use the “pusher” or “mounting arm” on the tire machine to punch the tire down and out of your way so you have more room to get to the sensor or valve stem (: love these videos brotha!
5:30 figure I would comment and say 'Good work Josue'. When I saw the first one going on top I thought 'well they will make it overlap the big overhang...' then it wasn't looking like that was going to happen. Right about then you chimed in and relived my anxiety 😂.
I would assume the drill trick won't work as well with the trailer loaded down. Just the pure convenience of pushing a button to lift and lower trailer would be so much nicer. Also, could you use something like a push pin to lock the ramps in? Love the trailer upgrade you do BTW!
A buddy of mine bought a cheap 1000lbs harbor freight winch took some bike sprockets a bike chain made a mount and used that for his trailer jacks. I think he spent less then 50 bucks. He had all the scrap laying around to build it. then just ran the controller out right under the overhang. in/out became up/down. Or you could pick up one of those heavy duty Milwaukee drills with the extra handle.
I would probably re weld the wheel wells to be way tighter clearance to the tires for more room to pull the corvette in, maybe even spacers to push out the tires for a little more room.
@@odysseyjzx hub centric spacers are as safe as mounting directly to the hub, if you bought one size fits all spacers and had a bad experience thats on you.
I would add a rubber spacer/ washer to the thumb screws, less to turn and easier to grab when it's up off the ground. Prevents over torquing into the plastic as well. The trailer lift using a drill, idk how possible it is, but Adam had a Snap-on truck guy show up with a center-lock wheel impact gun. It has to rotate a 500-600ft.lbs center lock wheel nut without ripping your wrist off, maybe look into 1 of those and see if you can add that into the design, might be a sacrificial drill for lifting your trailer.
I'd add a solar panel to the roof for the batteries.. and my buddy had the same issue with his power jack. we just cut the side open where the hole is. made a mount for the power jack and used something like you built so it was removable, used the cut out part, a hinge, and made a cover for the motor.
Im not gonna beat a dead horse but a solar panel would be the smart especially since it sits for long periods of time by the garage and its easy to leave something on! The other thing is with the wheel wells I'd get some round tube and replace the square ones and give you more room and less chance of hurting the Vette!
I suggest a Hole-Hog for the jack bit. Pllllleeeeeennntttyyy of torque with longer/better grip than a drill, and hey, new tool that can be used for other things too. Also definitely should look into a small solar setup for the roof. I really dig these kinds of project vids.
Make sure when doing dual batteries to have the negative and positive leads going from the batteries, have once come off each battery so they deplete at the same rate. Meaning have the negative come off battery A and positive come off battery B. This will distribute the load across both batteries at the same time.
One thing where I question your decisions. Why not mount the two batteries in the compartment for the jacks? Make a shelf at the top, and mount them there out of the way, and then make a nice protective/hiding panel over the electronics inside and you get more space and less obstruction.
Taylor, love the Ramps! Maybe some yellow tape around the inside of the door to make it stand out that it is raised higher due to the increase height from the bump stops.
Use rubber washers or thick o-rings under the ramp hold down screws. Road vibrations will back those screws out in no time unless there's some resistance.
The drill system works on the jacks but it will trash your drill pretty quickly. Been there done it. Just ended up putting electric jacks on the trailers and if we had done it that way the first time we would have saved money after buying 2 drills not including the original drill and then the electric jacks. However the system works fine with 2 stage geared jacks on lighter trailers.
On my personal trailer I added a small solar panel on the roof that works as a trickle charger when the trailer is setting, I used one I found at harbor freight and have never had a dead battery since
Hello.... I agree about the solar panels for the roof you also should consider a halon system, I've heard about several racers losing their rigs due to fire That's probably some cheap insurance.
Next item for the race trailer is solar panels and a charge controller and inverter, that way you have unlimited power both 12volt and 120volt for bigger tools.
If you add some marine solar panels to the roof, the inverters needed to use with the batteries come with an internal off/on isolation switch. So you could isolate the trailer from the batteries when not in use. Also, no matter when you go after the trailer it'd be ready for use. The only other thing that would make this better is getting some LiFePo batteries instead of using AGMs that have a fraction of the life.
Semi or dually truck tires are the ticket for trailers for sure. Spending that extra little bit will make them last SOOOO much longer than the cheapies
Ready for part 2! lol how about a window or like a RV roof fan just for ventilation, mini fridge or cooler, mount a awning so you dont need to rely on a pop up tent
I use a drill setup like that on the trailer jacks ... Usually the chuck starts slipping after 6 months and needs a new chuck sometimes but still better than hand jacking it lol
You should had another cabinet to put your batteries and all that stuff in. Clean it up and keep it all out of the way. Also, you can get a small solar panel off Amazon with a charge controller built in and pin it to the 7 pin connector for when the trailer sits the batteries will stay charged. Also I would throw a main kill switch on the battery set up. Will save you from the draw of the inverter and the usb charger.
I'd suggest a lock washer for behind your thumb screws. Those thumb screws have a habit of walking themselves out of pretty much everthing they have ever been used on. See: Mowers, Snowblowers, etc.
I love trailer content. Good job. I assume the truck charges the batteries in the trailer? If so, you should get a solar battery tender that plugs in to the trailer plug. I know it's expensive but have you considered hydraulic landing gear? I like it because they self level. When one foot hits the ground, pressure bypasses until the other hits the ground and then come up together. It prevents ever having all the weight on one jack and keeps the trailer from twisting. Probably unreasonable for a racecar trailer but they are nice.
Taylor, convert the tool you made to be driven by your 1/2” Rattle Gun instead of a drill. Works a treat on the legs on our caravan and you won’t break your wrist either
How about building a set of aluminum ramps kind of like they use for a dirt track late model car you would not have to worry about your track with because it would bring the front end up over the fenders. Plus it would give you a little bit more storage under the car
That Drill Jack improv is awesome xD how about adding a little bit of angle iron where the belt clip mounts normally, so you can support it on the trailer frame and dont snap your wrist?
A little 12V mini fridge/beverage cooler would be a nice addition to the trailer. And you should get the Garage Built livery on the sides. Have the guys who did the vette slap some vinyl on.
I wonder if a 1/4" impact or so wouldn't be better than the drill? You can keep the power low so you don't destroy the gearbox, and it can get past the difficult spots by hammering and not breaking your wrist.
I enjoy Taylor's "upgrading" videos more than the slidey-slide videos. Almost makes me want to do something productive. (almost)
Yeah, 100%the same, just love seing these kinds of projects
almost 😄
I’m actually only here to watch him work on stuff. I don’t watch the drifting videos. I wondered if I was the only one
Surprised you didn't add a solar panel the roof to power everything while sitting in the pit.
I have one I bought for my old trailer, I just don't like the idea of self taping/drilling for wires through the roof. it may be silly, but the idea has bothered me too much to put it on.
@@Taylordrifts Try some brackets off the side of the roof to mount solar panels (where sides and roof meet). It avoids the holes in roof leaking scenario, plus might be a little more stable.
@@Taylordrifts You could always have them detachable so that you can just have them sit on the tongue of the trailer or other sunny place when in use.
@@Taylordrifts That's a valid concern. You could always add some plug in leads coming out of the trailer somewhere down low and just use the panel with some legs on the ground for a day if the battery is starting to get low (but then you have to worry about carrying it around somewhere in the trailer and it getting in the way).
@@Taylordrifts would also be a "free" way to keep your tool batteries topped up. Get one of the Milwaukee vehicle chargers and cut the end off and wire it to the batteries
You might want to add a little switch to the usb charger/voltage indicator! Help to prevent battery drain for when the trailer is parked in between events.
You can also just buy one of those units with the switch built in for like $10
I bet it stays on a trickle charger when its in between events, otherwise it would be flat instantly 😅
but on the other hand ... maybe thats why the old battery didnt last
Most of the time these trailers have a main battery kill switch
For your trailer jacks, you would probably do better if you used the Milwaukee Hole Hawg right angle drill. It's made more specifically for high torque loads and easier to handle.
Meanwhile, TJ Hunt has an entire nascar magnaflow hauler for drift events lol one of the many reasons you're one of my favorite channels, very simple, with a ton of talent.
Agreed. Taylor keeps it relatable, straightforward, does everything himself!
to be fair its not TJ's trailer. magnaflow is just letting him use it.
Is tj a drifter for real?
@@dinho890i yup, hes not half bad either
2 years with that trailer!?!?! Where does the time go! Enjoy watching the upgrades. Ramps are genius. Cool idea would be to put solar panels on the roof of the trailer with the appropriate solar maintainer to keep the batteries topped up. We use it on our boat dock and it is super helpful!
just put a sprocket on the tube connecting the jacks, then make a mount for the motor. put a chain on it and let it rip. the closer u put the sprocket to the jack the less flex/binding youll end up with.
On the voltage meter, you may want to consider putting it on the other side of the breakers so that it is only on when they are on. I know that it only uses a tiny trickle, but over months it could drain you down some. The whole setup looks great, the "electric jack" you have to be careful with, I have jacked up my wrists before with drills that jump around like that, but it is a great "good enough" solution.
A couple of suggestions;
1. Trailer legs going down - hold the drill trigger in your left hand, brace against the rotation with your right.
2. A more powerful drill/battery combo (or a high torque corded drill) will last a lot longer with the force required on the jacks.
Love the upgrades.
Love a good trailer mod, upgrading logistics makes drift events even better.
agreed i put rv video cameras on mine
@@JJ-fc8ew that’s a really good idea.
@@jdshanahan4215 I'm thinking of removing the passenger air bag to make a custom screen mount
@@JJ-fc8ew wouldn’t be a bad idea. Just so long as you don’t think you’ll need the airbag. Haha
first thing i did to my little 5x10 open utility. start modding it. lol its equipped to have every thing you need, no matter what vehicle tows it. necessary adapters in place so if my father wants to tow with his 4pin plug it has a 4 to 7 adapter to hook up to my trailer that is converted to 7pin witing
One thing I really think you should do to your trailer is have the guys who wrapped the Corvette do a matching wrap for the trailer 👍. But on the other hand it does match the truck as it is. One upgrade I would do is a really good awning, unless it already has one.
On my prior RV, I had a back up cam that was blue tooth to a separate screen. I took power from the clearance
lights. amazing how nice it is to see behind you going down the road
I love trailer history stories. When I was in a band in high school we bought a home made steel strap and wooden enclosed trailer for our gear. Thing was tall as hell and was built all the way on the other end of the country and used to haul suits of chain and plate mail to renaissance festivals. When we were done with it and sold it, we ended up selling it to a dude who was just buying it temporarily to move back out to the west coast so in the end it got to go back home! lol just weird lil trailer stories~
As a truck driver I always wondered if a drill could raise / lower landing gear. Interesting to know!
I'm a tractor mechanic. One day we had a new guy disconnect a trailer from a downed to truck to do a swap. kid left the landing legs up and dropped a 53ft loaded trailer . Luckily it was only a few inches below the fifth wheel but we were still cracking for like 20 minutes not going to lie I thought about trying my impact gun to see what it would do 😂
I welded a nut to my jack on my bumper trailer and use an impact. But I'm always afraid the impacting will shear the rod. For yours, I'd find a way to have the drill index to the trailer so you don't have to "break your wrist"
I meant to say this on the last video of the trailer remodeling, but I had a thought about the tire situation. Could you buy/build some slide out tracks that sit in the loft and find a way to place the tires in upright, you can slide it out and grab the tires when you need them and have them out of your way. Just a thought I had.
Hey Taylor, Renogy is a trusted brand BUT I would highly recommend just going with a solar generator setup! You’ll have plenty of 12v on most setups, and you’ll have an inverter for who knows what! Then when you install those solar panels (I recommend mounting to the sides with a bracket and then running the cabling to the front with a drip loop that then goes into the trailer) you’ll have tons of power available! Would make it more feasible to use for camping at track when necessary too. Either way, love it!
If your trailer doesn't have it...there is a pin in the rv 7 flat from the truck to trailer plug (big center pin i belive) that you can add reverse lights that will come on when you put your truck in reverse...game changer I put them on my trailers never fails to not have a good spotter in the dark..
Love the upgrades. Thanks for getting some paint on those rear panels. I would definitely look at an option for solar. Like some others have said, you could use a portable solution and just hook them up at the track. This would keep your batteries topped up, and remove the leak risk.
Some sailers use flexible panels that are bonded to the surface rather than screwed in. Then you could go through the side, or if the wires are thin enough, run a small conduct down the side, and run the wire under the goose neck area. It's not as sexy, but it makes it easier to keep the water out.
If I were to keep that trailer for a long time I would build raised ramps like a dirt car set up. No more tight fit and emergency oil change area
You could potentially weld in a bridging section between the inside edge of the ramps so that you can lift them up and back simultaneously and you could add a bonnet pin type situation or something similar to the deck in order to retain the ramps when stowed?
Hey Taylor…Milwaukee tool lab technician here. Slap a high output battery in that drill and you’ll have substantially more sustained torque for raising your trailer. Those batteries are designed for long duration high load applications.
As always, love your videos and thanks for the constant entertainment!
I was wondering if a high output battery would help or not! Is there an updated stronger M18 drill? Mine is model number 2806-20
That drill setup worked pretty well...look into a Milwaukee Hole Hawg. It's a larger right angle drill, much easier to hold and it will hold up to that much better than the cordless drill. Since you already have the m18 batteries, it's a great tool to have
No he just needed to put the drill into mod 1
Or use his wheel gun.
One more addition that will give you more peace of mind when towing. Add 1 camera in the front and 1 in the rear of the trailer on the inside. You could check for movement on the inside. Also, even more important fire inside the trailer. A friend had cameras inside and caught a fire starting and saved his toys. Just a thought. Enjoy the video
For the jacks, I'm sure you could rig something up with a higher torque drill and a handle with more leverage, for the same cost as that system. Think how they used to start Indy/F1 cars with an external motor. Or something with a winch and a chain drive, but that would be way more involved.
The trailer mods are awesome! I really enjoy seeing your drifting content and builds but I also love general upgrading/workshop etc videos that you do, I have learnt so much from you and so many little small things I wouldn't have thought about! Keep up the awesome work!
The drill method for the jacks is exactly how we used to move the jacks on an old Jayco camper we used to have. Works well!
The stow away winch is good future upgrade. Also maybe a small generator to charge the batteries. Possibly hide it where the jacks are or tuck it up underneath with the fifth wheel is
I’m surprised he didn’t put the batteries down there by the jacks too
Awesome audio transition at 15:43. Very fulfilling work on the trailer. Love these projects.
That thing is badass.
I second the suggestion to add a switch to the USB/Voltmeter. It is a constant drain on the batteries.
I would also suggest putting a strap on those slot rails at the very back to catch the ramps if the screw was to back out. Wouldn’t create any extra work with loading and unloading since you can string it across the back before closing the ramp. If one of those screws backed out, you don’t want to drop it and find out one of the ramps were smacking into the rear of the car.
Trailer tire monitor is a must and only 2nd to good quality trailer tires. In regards to trailer tires, the 1 weakness of pressure/temp sensors are cheap tires that de-tread and usually don't loose air fast enough or heat up fast enough to trip the monitoring system before the damage is already done. Trailer King tires, aka china bombs, are notorious for this. Tire age is also something to really keep an eye on. Many trailer tires age out well before you wear the tread down like a passenger vehicle typical does.
We got our first travel trailer about 4 years ago and made the investment in the TST 507 system. Such a great piece of mind. No more guessing or wondering if everything is good. Now, were towing double the weight with our 5th wheel and the sensors are still working great.
Use ear foam ear plugs to flips flop between the ramp tumb screws and the "vacation home" to keep dirt and debris out to save the threads
No need to grind back before you put the rivets in. You just risk rippling stuff when you pull the rivets up. If you’re worried about them being flush then get some countersunk ones - with the warning that they pull through way more easily.
I’ve made quite a few drill jack adaptors, I’ve always called them the lazy truck driver tool. It works much better with legs that have a high/ low gear selection
Taylor always comes up with solutions to problems that many people don't even know existed. I love it.
Taylor I would change those thumb screws out for spring locks. I believe they will vibrate out during long hauls and then come down on the Vette.
You know the ramps aren’t actually going to come “down” right, gravity will hold them in the down position when the door is up.
Glad you got this Race car tailer refurbished and upgraded well done
You could have put the motor in between the 2 jacks on the shaft. If you make a new pipe that is 1" ID with a 3/4" ID bushing you can also keep the old pipe to reverse the mod if you have/ want to
Its prob6a lot of upgrading work but what about air bags on the back of the truck. That's what we have, then you just put landing gear down til barely touching, drop the airbags, and pull her out! Just a thought. Plus the air ride suspension cruising down the highway.
Hey Taylor, have you considered getting something like an EcoFlow Delta pro? Its 3.6KWh, Lithium Iron Phosphate, outputs up to 3600w, can generate 1600w of solar, it can charge off of 12v (at a low rate), hooks up to a generator that can auto start-stop if the battery is low, and a ton of other stuff.The battery is good for over 10 years of charge cycles
I feel like you never having to worry about electricity when you're out filming would probably be beneficial. Do be warned, its not cheap (and no i don't work for ecoflow) :p
I like the ramps. The new batteries make good sense. The backup camera and tire sensors should be standard for safety. I would have added solar panels that would lay flat to the top of the trailer to keep the batteries charged. Only need a couple along with controller. It be a big add in value if you ever wanted to resell it haven’t it’s own power.
Next step ideas.
Solar panels to roof for offgrid power.
Relocate batteries and electronics to the Jack enclosure and add air compressor there too.
Add bigger inverter for power tools and maybe a fridge.
AC to the roof for those hot days.
Awning over the side door side and led lights.
Maybe some slide out trays for your storage area that way you don’t have to climb up there to get tires and boxes.
Taylor suggestion you should put a solar panel on top of the trailer so where it will charge up your batteries consistently as needed🤔🤓👍🏼🤙🏽
If you want to just get to the tpm sensor or any valve stem and not remove the whole tire so you don’t have to balance them again you can use the “pusher” or “mounting arm” on the tire machine to punch the tire down and out of your way so you have more room to get to the sensor or valve stem (: love these videos brotha!
Hes not even balancing them
5:30 figure I would comment and say 'Good work Josue'. When I saw the first one going on top I thought 'well they will make it overlap the big overhang...' then it wasn't looking like that was going to happen. Right about then you chimed in and relived my anxiety 😂.
Looks like your battery boxes might fit in behind the front panel where the jacks are located. That way you can save room inside the trailer.
I was thinking the same
Taylor definitely keeps it real. Feels like he's the super talented homie that we chill with on the weekend and makes all the projects easier.
Look into putting an awning on the side.
I added one from carefree of colorado to my enclosed and it’s an awesome addition. You’ll love it
I would assume the drill trick won't work as well with the trailer loaded down. Just the pure convenience of pushing a button to lift and lower trailer would be so much nicer. Also, could you use something like a push pin to lock the ramps in?
Love the trailer upgrade you do BTW!
A buddy of mine bought a cheap 1000lbs harbor freight winch took some bike sprockets a bike chain made a mount and used that for his trailer jacks. I think he spent less then 50 bucks. He had all the scrap laying around to build it. then just ran the controller out right under the overhang. in/out became up/down. Or you could pick up one of those heavy duty Milwaukee drills with the extra handle.
Just a thought for an add-on. Put a couple of the lifting beds in that tuck up against the ceiling.
I would probably re weld the wheel wells to be way tighter clearance to the tires for more room to pull the corvette in, maybe even spacers to push out the tires for a little more room.
definitely no spacers on a trailer, that’s a recipe for disaster
@@odysseyjzx hub centric spacers are as safe as mounting directly to the hub, if you bought one size fits all spacers and had a bad experience thats on you.
Nonskid on those ramps for wet tires
Imagine a Indy car like starter tool for the jack lol
I would add a rubber spacer/ washer to the thumb screws, less to turn and easier to grab when it's up off the ground. Prevents over torquing into the plastic as well. The trailer lift using a drill, idk how possible it is, but Adam had a Snap-on truck guy show up with a center-lock wheel impact gun. It has to rotate a 500-600ft.lbs center lock wheel nut without ripping your wrist off, maybe look into 1 of those and see if you can add that into the design, might be a sacrificial drill for lifting your trailer.
When I saw the bike pulled apart I thought you were making a reduction gear with sprockets and chain, to take the load off the drill
I'd add a solar panel to the roof for the batteries.. and my buddy had the same issue with his power jack. we just cut the side open where the hole is. made a mount for the power jack and used something like you built so it was removable, used the cut out part, a hinge, and made a cover for the motor.
Im not gonna beat a dead horse but a solar panel would be the smart especially since it sits for long periods of time by the garage and its easy to leave something on! The other thing is with the wheel wells I'd get some round tube and replace the square ones and give you more room and less chance of hurting the Vette!
Could be a dumb idea for many many reasons, but have you considered a solar setup for the top of the trailer like some overlanders do on their trucks?
I suggest a Hole-Hog for the jack bit. Pllllleeeeeennntttyyy of torque with longer/better grip than a drill, and hey, new tool that can be used for other things too. Also definitely should look into a small solar setup for the roof. I really dig these kinds of project vids.
Make sure when doing dual batteries to have the negative and positive leads going from the batteries, have once come off each battery so they deplete at the same rate. Meaning have the negative come off battery A and positive come off battery B. This will distribute the load across both batteries at the same time.
One thing where I question your decisions. Why not mount the two batteries in the compartment for the jacks? Make a shelf at the top, and mount them there out of the way, and then make a nice protective/hiding panel over the electronics inside and you get more space and less obstruction.
Taylor, love the Ramps! Maybe some yellow tape around the inside of the door to make it stand out that it is raised higher due to the increase height from the bump stops.
Use rubber washers or thick o-rings under the ramp hold down screws. Road vibrations will back those screws out in no time unless there's some resistance.
Cmon maaaaan! Always read the instructions!
I almost always learn about some feature i didn’t know the time had when I do. Let alone proper install.
The drill system works on the jacks but it will trash your drill pretty quickly. Been there done it. Just ended up putting electric jacks on the trailers and if we had done it that way the first time we would have saved money after buying 2 drills not including the original drill and then the electric jacks. However the system works fine with 2 stage geared jacks on lighter trailers.
For the power assist look at go cart engine starters.
Would an impact driver be better for your wrists compared to the drill when lifting the trailer?
So, now that you don't have the pickup any more, what are you going to use the camera and TPMS stuff?
On my personal trailer I added a small solar panel on the roof that works as a trickle charger when the trailer is setting, I used one I found at harbor freight and have never had a dead battery since
When repairing the inner arch. Change the shape of them to give more clearance
Looks like some type of rubber bumper is needed under the ramp to keep from bending it at the hinge end. Nice upgrades!
Hello.... I agree about the solar panels for the roof you also should consider a halon system, I've heard about several racers losing their rigs due to fire That's probably some cheap insurance.
Nice upgrades, always wondered why the panels were so dirty looking
What Brand of Ramps did you use?
Next item for the race trailer is solar panels and a charge controller and inverter, that way you have unlimited power both 12volt and 120volt for bigger tools.
If you add some marine solar panels to the roof, the inverters needed to use with the batteries come with an internal off/on isolation switch. So you could isolate the trailer from the batteries when not in use. Also, no matter when you go after the trailer it'd be ready for use. The only other thing that would make this better is getting some LiFePo batteries instead of using AGMs that have a fraction of the life.
Semi or dually truck tires are the ticket for trailers for sure. Spending that extra little bit will make them last SOOOO much longer than the cheapies
This vid has old more old school Taylor vibes, the intro was spot on. I dig it
Great upgrades. We've done many of those to ours. We put in a BT speaker system which just needs a sub to sound a bit fuller. A camera would be nice.
Ready for part 2! lol how about a window or like a RV roof fan just for ventilation, mini fridge or cooler, mount a awning so you dont need to rely on a pop up tent
I use a drill setup like that on the trailer jacks ... Usually the chuck starts slipping after 6 months and needs a new chuck sometimes but still better than hand jacking it lol
You should had another cabinet to put your batteries and all that stuff in. Clean it up and keep it all out of the way. Also, you can get a small solar panel off Amazon with a charge controller built in and pin it to the 7 pin connector for when the trailer sits the batteries will stay charged. Also I would throw a main kill switch on the battery set up. Will save you from the draw of the inverter and the usb charger.
I'd suggest a lock washer for behind your thumb screws. Those thumb screws have a habit of walking themselves out of pretty much everthing they have ever been used on. See: Mowers, Snowblowers, etc.
I love trailer content. Good job. I assume the truck charges the batteries in the trailer? If so, you should get a solar battery tender that plugs in to the trailer plug. I know it's expensive but have you considered hydraulic landing gear? I like it because they self level. When one foot hits the ground, pressure bypasses until the other hits the ground and then come up together. It prevents ever having all the weight on one jack and keeps the trailer from twisting. Probably unreasonable for a racecar trailer but they are nice.
Taylor, convert the tool you made to be driven by your 1/2” Rattle Gun instead of a drill. Works a treat on the legs on our caravan and you won’t break your wrist either
I think a better solution to the drill is the Milwaukee mud mixer, it’s basically just a high torque drill.
Now you gotta add a few solar panels to keep the batteries charged, have a fridge in there keep some drinks cool and whatever else you need
How about building a set of aluminum ramps kind of like they use for a dirt track late model car you would not have to worry about your track with because it would bring the front end up over the fenders. Plus it would give you a little bit more storage under the car
Jack system. Inside the compartment weld a sproket to the bar that turns with a chain across to a mounted 12v motor on a switch.
That Drill Jack improv is awesome xD
how about adding a little bit of angle iron where the belt clip mounts normally, so you can support it on the trailer frame and dont snap your wrist?
Put an o-ring on those thumb screws and it will help keep it from backing out while it bounces down the Highway.
Instead of a drill use a 1/2" impact. Weld a old socket to that tool.
A little 12V mini fridge/beverage cooler would be a nice addition to the trailer. And you should get the Garage Built livery on the sides. Have the guys who did the vette slap some vinyl on.
Pick up some of the Turbo cans from Rust-Oleum, do like 1 or 2 coats with like two cans and would look good!
Do you use your alternator to charge the batteries in the back? On long hauls, that alternator would have time enough to top them of.
I wonder if a 1/4" impact or so wouldn't be better than the drill? You can keep the power low so you don't destroy the gearbox, and it can get past the difficult spots by hammering and not breaking your wrist.
Those airbag hitches would be a massive upgrade for the cost as well
Shop update and trailer update within a week! Nice!
Nice upgrades 👌been tryin to replace my sold trailer and since then it seems trailer prices have went sky high 🤑