Man its been a while since i did a build. Super excited getting my block back from the shop tomorrow. This video was a refresher for me. Glad I watched. My Ranger is gonna be super BA Appreciate this video….Thank you so much!
@2CarPros, thanks for putting together such a series of informative films. Because if these videos I am going to change my 302 into a 347 using the exact same process, parts and supplier (could be expensive in the U.K.) Top work!
I dont have and probably never will have the money to do anything like this. But being able to follow along and live vicariously through you has been rewarding. Thanks for the educational videos.
For the past two days I've been watching your videos I'm on four. I recently came upon 302 block I'm going to be freshening it up awesome video I really like your attention to detail
Love the video 2 car pros cannot wait to build a 302 someday. However a helpful tip, try not to set your microfiber cloth on the workbench it will essentially pick up dirt from that table and then when you go and clean your caps or whatever your cleaning you will be essentially rub dirt back onto the part. But great video love it 👍 22:28
When I put the pistons in I install the bearings on the rod and use a tapered ring compressor and put in 1&5, 2&6, 3&7, 4&8. Tap them in with one hand and guide with the other. Install caps torque bolts turn engine over two times move on to the next two down the line. It takes less time and your checking your work two cylinders at a time.
I have a low compression 289 (c code), does it make sense to put a set of aftermarket heads on my engine? I'm not looking to gain crazy power, just add a little bit more.
Ok man super good step by step but….. I’m in deep here but I have a question about seals where the back of the crank sits…. I have everything together but I feel something’s missing
I showed every single step. If there is any confusion you can ask a question at our website absolutely free and even upload pictures or videos showing exactly your concern. Thanks for watching!
Im in the process of doing this same build for my 94 mustang. But my biggest worry is to spend all this money just to have to stock block crack. This isn't a concern for you?. I feel it's almost a must to just go ahead and buy a boss block or a dart block. But that another 2k right off the rip. I have my stick block sitting here and am just on the fence about it. Just an fyi. These videos have given me the confidence to build this engine myself. Going to be my first engine build. Fingers crossed.
Nice work on the project! Depends on how much power you want to make. If you are making under 500 or so, stock block is fine. Anymore than that you are really risking the block cracking in half. Thanks for watching! You are going to have a blast building this!
Like you can't turn it at all? Sounds like something is too small. Most likely your rods or the bearings in your rods. Like you have 0.010 oversized bearings on a stock crank or something like that. Either way it needs to be taking about and checked using the plastigauge method I showed. Thanks for watching!
I heard that SOME 331s dont need clearance because its a shorter stroker vs a 347 which ALWAYS needs to be cleanreced thats probably why im gonna go 331
Yes I did. The engine bores and pistons are covered in oil. The only break in oil these days is a bottle of ZZDP because oil doesn't come with it anymore. So I used regular oil and added the ZZDP for start up. I go over it in a later video. Thanks for watching!
As I explain in the video, I show how to do them, but typically its not super needed on a regular build like this. Considering we made plenty of power on the dyno, pretty sure it's all good. Thanks for watching!
I’m using the same crank, pistons and rods. Bought as a kit with all the bearings. Went together fine but my rods don’t slide side to side as in the video. When I torqued the cabs the rods don’t move. Is this something to be concerned about?
@@2carpros Yes it seems to spin fine. I have just the crank rods and pistons in it now and it only requires 5 foot pounds to spin it. When I originally posted it was just number one and number five that I had done. Since then I finished installing the rest and they all move fine it was just those two on the first journal that didn’t seem to move. But yeah, everything seems to spin fine
You risk knocking them off when you start tapping it home and in a worst case it hits a concrete floor and gets bent up up ever so slightly or scratched. Better just to do it the way he does.
Mr Mad Rabbit nailed it. Couldn't explain it better myself. Some people preload the bearing but I like doing it this way to prevent bearing mishaps. Thanks for watching!
@@jesseduke694 its only normal for procedure for lazy wrench turners. These videos are exacting and methodical. You should hope to be half as good as this guy. What you are seeing is called “best practices” and by doing so you give yourself the lowest probability of failure and a long life on that engine.
My first piston is installed and makes a sound when rotating the crank by hand. Like sand paper on sand paper. You piston didn’t make any sound on its first rotations.
Yeah it shouldn't. I would take it a part and reclean everything. It should make a slight scraping sound of the piston rings on the cylinder walls but that's it. Then I'd use a generous amount of oil on the piston and racing grease for the bearing surfaces. Thanks for watching!
Are you actually making 4 for one side and 4 for the other side? Aren't all 8 identical? When you flip things around you flip both the rod and piston so it is the same as not flipping anything.
@@2carpros No, you are wrong. Take a piston/rod from one side and rotate it to the other side, keeping the top side of the rod facing up. Now you have one on the other side with the reliefs up and the tangs facing in. Same as you started with on the other side.
@@rak6080 I agree, all the Ford pistons are the same. If the valve reliefs are forward, the chamfer side of the rod should be on the right. This is because Ford heads are the same. SBC are different with intake and exhaust valves separate. I wonder if that is why some readers cannot slide the rods sideways. The chamfer is inboard of half of the rods. Please correct your video!!!
Drinking game, take a shot every time he calls something a "bad boy" 😂
I'm kidding. This is an excellent build series for a beginner. Well done.
You'd be in the hospital for sure lol XD
Thanks for watching!
Man its been a while since i did a build. Super excited getting my block back from the shop tomorrow. This video was a refresher for me. Glad I watched. My Ranger is gonna be super BA Appreciate this video….Thank you so much!
Nice! Sounds awesome! Thanks for watching Bryan!
@2CarPros, thanks for putting together such a series of informative films. Because if these videos I am going to change my 302 into a 347 using the exact same process, parts and supplier (could be expensive in the U.K.)
Top work!
Very nice comment! Thank you so much for watching! Let me know how it goes!
Thank you for this. I needed a little guidance on building my 302 👏
No problem 👍
I dont have and probably never will have the money to do anything like this. But being able to follow along and live vicariously through you has been rewarding. Thanks for the educational videos.
Never say never! You could do this much cheaper. Thanks for watching!
I know you are proud of your work and you should be. Very detailed! Great video!
Thank you so much 🤗
Awesome series so far keep these videos coming. Very detailed and informative thanks a lot👍
Also +1 subscriber😉
More to come! Thanks for watchin and subbing!
For the past two days I've been watching your videos I'm on four. I recently came upon 302 block I'm going to be freshening it up awesome video I really like your attention to detail
That is awesome! Thanks for watching!
Love the video 2 car pros cannot wait to build a 302 someday. However a helpful tip, try not to set your microfiber cloth on the workbench it will essentially pick up dirt from that table and then when you go and clean your caps or whatever your cleaning you will be essentially rub dirt back onto the part. But great video love it 👍 22:28
When I put the pistons in I install the bearings on the rod and use a tapered ring compressor and put in 1&5, 2&6, 3&7, 4&8. Tap them in with one hand and guide with the other. Install caps torque bolts turn engine over two times move on to the next two down the line. It takes less time and your checking your work two cylinders at a time.
Yeah quite the advance technique and I want to keep this simple for everyone. Thanks for watching!
I love this series. Very interesting.
More to come! Make sure you are subscribed so you don't miss it!
I have a low compression 289 (c code), does it make sense to put a set of aftermarket heads on my engine? I'm not looking to gain crazy power, just add a little bit more.
Ok man super good step by step but….. I’m in deep here but I have a question about seals where the back of the crank sits…. I have everything together but I feel something’s missing
I showed every single step. If there is any confusion you can ask a question at our website absolutely free and even upload pictures or videos showing exactly your concern. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros so I did some research and there is a two piece seal that goes under the last crank cap
Im in the process of doing this same build for my 94 mustang. But my biggest worry is to spend all this money just to have to stock block crack. This isn't a concern for you?. I feel it's almost a must to just go ahead and buy a boss block or a dart block. But that another 2k right off the rip. I have my stick block sitting here and am just on the fence about it. Just an fyi. These videos have given me the confidence to build this engine myself. Going to be my first engine build. Fingers crossed.
Nice work on the project! Depends on how much power you want to make. If you are making under 500 or so, stock block is fine. Anymore than that you are really risking the block cracking in half. Thanks for watching! You are going to have a blast building this!
Great series ! Doing my 302 and got all of my pistons in and torqued and can’t turn it? Any help??
Like you can't turn it at all? Sounds like something is too small. Most likely your rods or the bearings in your rods. Like you have 0.010 oversized bearings on a stock crank or something like that. Either way it needs to be taking about and checked using the plastigauge method I showed. Thanks for watching!
When you file fit your rings, you need to keep them with the cylinder that you fitted them to.
So each bore is a different size?! How’s that possible?
@@outsidethelines2162 very possible
I heard that SOME 331s dont need clearance because its a shorter stroker vs a 347 which ALWAYS needs to be cleanreced
thats probably why im gonna go 331
Woooo more please!!!
You got it! Thanks for watching!
Bob Ross of engine assembly 😂😂
Thank you so much for saying that! I love Bob Ross!
I didn’t notice you put any lubricant on the cylinder bore sides before you installed the piston. Do you use stand oil or the break in oil?
Yes I did. The engine bores and pistons are covered in oil. The only break in oil these days is a bottle of ZZDP because oil doesn't come with it anymore. So I used regular oil and added the ZZDP for start up. I go over it in a later video. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros
I have bought the Lucas 30 break 💔 in oil that has 1200 zinq in it , it says on the specs paper. No additive needed i think?
How important is balancing if you were trying to swap out new rods and pistons from factory?
Worst case, the engine shakes itself apart and leaves you walking. Of course walking is always a problem with Fords. ;)
Ultra important. That can really throw the engine off at higher RPM. It can definitely leave your engine destroyed eventually. Thanks for watching!
DID YOU PLASTIGAGE THE CONNECTING RID BEARING,OR IS IT NOT NESSESARY,I4M INSTALLING SCAT 331 STROKER
As I explain in the video, I show how to do them, but typically its not super needed on a regular build like this. Considering we made plenty of power on the dyno, pretty sure it's all good. Thanks for watching!
Did you put any lubricant on the cylinder walls before installing the pistons?
Yes. Engine oil. Thanks for watching!
I’m using the same crank, pistons and rods. Bought as a kit with all the bearings. Went together fine but my rods don’t slide side to side as in the video. When I torqued the cabs the rods don’t move. Is this something to be concerned about?
Can you bar the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank bolt?
@@2carpros Yes it seems to spin fine. I have just the crank rods and pistons in it now and it only requires 5 foot pounds to spin it. When I originally posted it was just number one and number five that I had done. Since then I finished installing the rest and they all move fine it was just those two on the first journal that didn’t seem to move. But yeah, everything seems to spin fine
Would it have made things easier to have the bearings on the rods and caps prior to putting the pistons into the bores?
You risk knocking them off when you start tapping it home and in a worst case it hits a concrete floor and gets bent up up ever so slightly or scratched. Better just to do it the way he does.
Mr Mad Rabbit nailed it. Couldn't explain it better myself. Some people preload the bearing but I like doing it this way to prevent bearing mishaps. Thanks for watching!
@@jesseduke694 its only normal for procedure for lazy wrench turners. These videos are exacting and methodical. You should hope to be half as good as this guy. What you are seeing is called “best practices” and by doing so you give yourself the lowest probability of failure and a long life on that engine.
@@madrabbit9007 lol!
Been looking forward to this build video for a while. Are you going to put a carb on in or fuel injections?
Great question! We will be using Summit Racing Fuel Injection System. Sometimes you can see the box in the background. Thanks for watching!
What if your rods don’t have room to move front to back in the motor? The rear 4 in mine move but the front 4 are totally tight
Does the engine turn over was reasonable force or is it super tough?
My first piston is installed and makes a sound when rotating the crank by hand. Like sand paper on sand paper. You piston didn’t make any sound on its first rotations.
Yeah it shouldn't. I would take it a part and reclean everything. It should make a slight scraping sound of the piston rings on the cylinder walls but that's it. Then I'd use a generous amount of oil on the piston and racing grease for the bearing surfaces. Thanks for watching!
Torque spec for stock 302 rods is 22-25 ft lbs.
or 45 ft lbs for hipo 289 or boss 302. But these are not stock rods or cap screws!
Is there going to be more videos on this build?
There sure will be! We will be building it up until we strap it to the dyno. Then after that it is going in our 1981 Bronco. Thanks for watching Mike!
I've heard you can actually reuse your pistons.
Are you actually making 4 for one side and 4 for the other side? Aren't all 8 identical? When you flip things around you flip both the rod and piston so it is the same as not flipping anything.
No. Because the tangs for the connecting rod need to face in and the valve reliefs need to face up in the block. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros No, you are wrong. Take a piston/rod from one side and rotate it to the other side, keeping the top side of the rod facing up. Now you have one on the other side with the reliefs up and the tangs facing in. Same as you started with on the other side.
@@rak6080 I agree, all the Ford pistons are the same. If the valve reliefs are forward, the chamfer side of the rod should be on the right. This is because Ford heads are the same. SBC are different with intake and exhaust valves separate. I wonder if that is why some readers cannot slide the rods sideways. The chamfer is inboard of half of the rods. Please correct your video!!!
Contac number for a custom job..
You can email me at ryan@2carpros.com Thanks for watching!