Tdub Williams It’s still plugged in. At beginning, when I show the one MFER plate, and towards the end of install, you can see there is a tab on that plate that sticks out, and prevents the spring from engaging anything. I don’t know the actual science of why it doesn’t throw a code, but I do know that tab keeps that spring from doing anything. I just got a new GoPro, so I’m hoping the audio is better and I will do a driving video, because I really love the sound of my car after doing this install.
I got cel p121b on my car so I installed the mfr1 kit and the same code is there. Do you think I installed the kit incorrect or is the actuator gone bad. I have a 17 Daytona. Those things are $350 a piece 🥺
I had 2 Daytona’s 5.7 and 392. I put them on my 5.7 never had any issues at now my 392 I got the same issue and I got tired seeing the check light so I took it off and reset my active exhaust sensors and my cel never came back on. The 392 is very sensitive when it comes to those active exhaust modules I do my best not to mess with them from my experience of owning both cars
I have a problem that the dealership says they can’t tell a difference. They recently replace my 2017 T/a 5.7 with rear end exhaust. Because my old one there was a rattle/hissing noise. I’ve stressed to the dealership that the T/A & Daytona no matter the engine size comes with scatpack exhaust. And to make sure it’s the right part number. Once replace with the new part. It was sounding brand new... snap crackle and pop. I then let someone drive my car and I already know they were forcing the car to be loud when it does it effortlessly. So once I got my car back form the person I let drive it. I instantly noticed how quiet it become and silent when I’m downshifting at 50-70 mph there isn’t any popcorn sound or rumble when I lightly accelerate. It’s like I have to put my foot to the floor just to get the car to be loud. And even when I do that it’s still quiet even in sport mode. I have no base to my exhaust anymore. I I can go from 40-80 mph without even noticing it because the exhaust is so quiet. I used to can just listen to the engine and exhaust and automatically know how fast I would be going. Idk if it’s something the dealer had done or the person I let drive the car. But even if the person I let drive was dogging the car playing in manual. It’s a brand new rear end on the car there is no way it should sound like a BASE RT. Do you think installing the MFer1 will help. Because at this point no other dealer wants to touch the car after 1 dealer repaired part. And that dealer already contacted Chrysler who told them not to replace it again if there ain’t any noticeable issues. And to add when they replace the rear end exhaust with a new one, they installed my left exhaust tip uneven idk if that could be the cause or not.
Big Sosa sounds like you have a functioning active exhaust, which would not have any “bass”. One way to find out. Crawl under, and see if you have these actuators, and if you do, get the mfer-1
I believe it will still throw a code without a spring? I actually have the mfer1 and I can hear the spring compressed/decompressed and its quite annoying. If i can just remove the spring without a code that would be perfect. I read on some threads that a P1217 will be thrown at least on the drivers side.
@@Sky1 each actuator has a spring that rotates when the vehicle starts and stops which control the opening and closing of the exhaust valves. When you install the mfer1 the spring will rub on the surface of that mfer1 plate making that noise I am referring to. I actually ended up putting some electrical tape in parts of that plate to help reduce noise, has been working great to this day.
You did a great job on this instructional review
Christopher Contreras thanks!
Do you have any drone while driving around sir .????????
Kal- El nope. I have noticed it has a different tone, while just normal driving, but I’m really enjoying it. :)
Kal- El I’ll try to do another driving video, once the weather gets nicer and I figure out why the GoPro 5’s audio is so messed up.
Is it still plugged in, how are you manipulating the computer into thinking it’s still open.
Tdub Williams It’s still plugged in. At beginning, when I show the one MFER plate, and towards the end of install, you can see there is a tab on that plate that sticks out, and prevents the spring from engaging anything. I don’t know the actual science of why it doesn’t throw a code, but I do know that tab keeps that spring from doing anything. I just got a new GoPro, so I’m hoping the audio is better and I will do a driving video, because I really love the sound of my car after doing this install.
Since you’ve installed this have you thrown a code?
It didn’t throw a code for the two years I had the car.
Those exhajust pipes are 2.75???
Kal- El 3”
Ed Ruppel pretty sure they and positive our scatpack stock tube diameter is only 2.75”
stang8psi found out its 2 3/4 od. So you’re right.
Great install review man!
Does it come with the nuts to securely fasten them?
I think it was only missing a couple washers, but everything should be in kit
Thanks for sharing man! How’s the drone when it kicks into MDS?
Ryan Cortez no drone at all. But some guys cruise the highway at 80mph. I only do around 70.
Sport mode only
I got cel p121b on my car so I installed the mfr1 kit and the same code is there. Do you think I installed the kit incorrect or is the actuator gone bad. I have a 17 Daytona. Those things are $350 a piece 🥺
leroy johnson might be bad actuators. I heard they are prone to going bad. Not sure how to get rid of code.
I had 2 Daytona’s 5.7 and 392. I put them on my 5.7 never had any issues at now my 392 I got the same issue and I got tired seeing the check light so I took it off and reset my active exhaust sensors and my cel never came back on. The 392 is very sensitive when it comes to those active exhaust modules I do my best not to mess with them from my experience of owning both cars
I was going to purchase these, then found the AED version, which is much nicer in my opinion.
Never heard of it. Might not have been around when I did these. I’m still enjoying my MFER-1’s.
Do u have a link for the aed ?
@@blkedout_3928 mfer-1.com/
Any complaints now that you've had it a while? Any rattling from the valves?
timerider313 I haven’t had ANY problems with them. I know others have. I’d recommend.
I have a problem that the dealership says they can’t tell a difference.
They recently replace my 2017 T/a 5.7 with rear end exhaust. Because my old one there was a rattle/hissing noise. I’ve stressed to the dealership that the T/A & Daytona no matter the engine size comes with scatpack exhaust. And to make sure it’s the right part number.
Once replace with the new part. It was sounding brand new... snap crackle and pop. I then let someone drive my car and I already know they were forcing the car to be loud when it does it effortlessly.
So once I got my car back form the person I let drive it. I instantly noticed how quiet it become and silent when I’m downshifting at 50-70 mph there isn’t any popcorn sound or rumble when I lightly accelerate. It’s like I have to put my foot to the floor just to get the car to be loud. And even when I do that it’s still quiet even in sport mode. I have no base to my exhaust anymore. I I can go from 40-80 mph without even noticing it because the exhaust is so quiet. I used to can just listen to the engine and exhaust and automatically know how fast I would be going. Idk if it’s something the dealer had done or the person I let drive the car. But even if the person I let drive was dogging the car playing in manual. It’s a brand new rear end on the car there is no way it should sound like a BASE RT. Do you think installing the MFer1 will help. Because at this point no other dealer wants to touch the car after 1 dealer repaired part. And that dealer already contacted Chrysler who told them not to replace it again if there ain’t any noticeable issues. And to add when they replace the rear end exhaust with a new one, they installed my left exhaust tip uneven idk if that could be the cause or not.
Big Sosa sounds like you have a functioning active exhaust, which would not have any “bass”. One way to find out. Crawl under, and see if you have these actuators, and if you do, get the mfer-1
Time to straight pipe.
@@7s29 I eventually did. Oh how I miss that car
what do you keep your setting for trans on?
Like when I’m driving? Or racing? I just leave it on street for normal driving and sport for racing
Still get the crackles n pops?
Michael Probst yup. Might even be more so. :)
Do you have any beeping sound from the actuators every now and then?
Johnny mopar nope. Just when I installed them.
2019 all you have to do is remove spring and tie valve open and no code
I believe it will still throw a code without a spring? I actually have the mfer1 and I can hear the spring compressed/decompressed and its quite annoying. If i can just remove the spring without a code that would be perfect. I read on some threads that a P1217 will be thrown at least on the drivers side.
No code on 2019's
@@RussianBeast93 what do you mean you can hear the spring?
@@Sky1 each actuator has a spring that rotates when the vehicle starts and stops which control the opening and closing of the exhaust valves. When you install the mfer1 the spring will rub on the surface of that mfer1 plate making that noise I am referring to. I actually ended up putting some electrical tape in parts of that plate to help reduce noise, has been working great to this day.
@@RussianBeast93 I wonder if you over tightened it? Mine will be in tomorrow, that's going to piss me off if I hear the spring.