I definitely have to get that funnel kit,took me hours bleeding a 2007 Infiniti M35 X with the cap on. Having the car raised while bleeding is very important as well,excellent video good job.
@@AnthonyJ350 I am currently replacing my thermostat. Do you just utilize the aluminum gasket or do you add silicone with it? I ask because I did this once replacing the gasket and it still leaked? So I am replacing it again rather frustrating
Great Video as always. I run an Mishimoto Kit ( Hoses , Radiatot, Thermostat and Fans ) and i couldn't be happier. The car hits operating temp fast ... less than 5 min. ( I live in France for reference)
I will be waiting for the Oil radiator video... cause thats the next thing on my to do list then i will focus on the brakes ( lines , rotors and pads )
What I have done in the past, I did the bleeder valve to fill as shown with the heater on maximum... Then fill the over flow tank to the top of the cap...The system will burp through the radiator cap then suck coolant into the radiator once the engine cools down...After 5 heat cycles ,the coolant level will be exactly on the FULL mark....It almost appears as if the overflow tank was designed exactly for burping after coolant change.
Exactly! Can't be done in one shot. Took me three heating/cooling cycles to get the system fully bled. With that Lisle funnel the level will keep going down every heat cycle. Just keep topping it off an the system will eventually burp itself w/out having to even touch the bleeder screw.
I bought the OEM thermostat for my 10 G37 Coupe w/74,000k last week at Nissan dealer for $26. Same part # as Infiniti. Make sure you get the OEM gasket as it doesn’t come with thermostat. I paid $6.50 for that. Definitely remove parts he recommends This job is EASIER than replacing the cheap plastic heater hose connector which blew as a result of the bad thermostat.
Nice video. It really shows how much time, effort and money you are putting into that magnificent car. It really looks great, grats for that! I hope you can enjoy that car for many years, and that it will give you nice memories!
Thank you! Yes the car has been great to me over the years. We're not done with it yet though, always trying to get more durability and increase its effectiveness on the street.
Glad it helped! Make sure to read your service manual, as every vehicle is different for cooling system designs. The 350Z is definitely one of the more time consuming ones to bleed air out of.
Bro give me some of those Sun Chips! Sharing is caring. Love your content man. I've been building a reliable fun NA Z and a lot of the things I would do you've already made videos for. Between you and thatbluezguy, Michael Gardner, and full throttle, there's a wealth of info. #HarvestCheddarGang
Sweet vid AJ. Mishimoto thermostats have a higher temp threshold versus OEM. Aisin are good too. Some VQ owners I seen don't use factory coolant and they wonder why the engine blows up along with not topping off the oil.
You mean the Mishimoto opens earlier right? I like the Aisin one cause it was made in Japan and my Dad's work sold a lot of that brand with little issue. Trying to keep within factory parameters.
I drill 8 tiny holes in the outer ring of the thermostat ( steam holes ) It greatly reduces the bleed time, and those steam holes prevent air being trapped, and possibly burning a hole in the intake manifold from hot spots. I recommend doing that to all thermostats. One less possible fatal motor mistake.
If I owned my own place I'd get an air compressor and vacuum filler tool Absolute pain in the ass to bleed these things. I put in an aluminium bleeder to replace the fragile plastic union at the heater line in my 370 and bled it from the heater hose and radiator air relief, was getting hot air and no bubbling noises but still getting heaps of air out using a funnel
Ah there you go I commented on the "coolant bleeder replacement" video not knowing you already had a video showing the complete burping process. I still figure that you don't even have to open the bleeder, funnel takes care of everything. At least that's how it is with my Ford.
I have an HR and want to do my thermostat as well, but my question is what made you go with an after market brand but same specs, wouldn't it be better just to get the oem from Nissan?? Awesome video man
This is great! I'm planning to swap upper and lower radiator hoses this weekend and find this video to be one of the most helpful. From what I understand, my 2008 G35 with 3.5 L VQ35HR engine (vs VQ35"DE") doesn't have a bleeder screw, however, there's an Air Relief Plug "on radiator" (driver side) that should be opened on refilling and closed when coolant begins to flow out. I'm hoping using this procedure (w/ spill-free funnel) in combination of Air relief plug on radiator will work the same! At the very least I can follow the exact steps in service manual which doesn't involve using spill-free funnel, which means you must close radiator cap, and wait for car to cool each time. For anyone wondering, I got the manual from here: cardiagn.com/2008-infiniti-g35-engine-cooling-system/ P.S. The service manual does make mention of an Air Relief Plug on "heater hose" (i.e. bleeder); however, I've read differing comments of some saying it's there and it's not. Apparently, Infiniti started to phase them out post 2007 model. In fact, if you check the following link and select 2008 Infiniti, the OEM Coolant Bleeder Relief Valve shows as Not Compatible. conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-coolant-bleeder-relief-valve-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-92500-ar000_p_15693.php
Thanks so much for sharing! Main thing also is to elevate the front end and remember it might take some time to bleed the system. Takes me 30 to 45 minutes.
@@AnthonyJ350 I’m totally fine with time even if it takes 2hours. My main goal is to ensure it’s done right 🙂! Only question I have...as you were going through the cycle of topping off coolant and rev’ing engine and holding at 2500/3000 rpm...how long did you wait “in-between”those events? Meaning, you started by filling coolant, open bleeder until fluid comes out then close, start car and turn on heat, rev engine, as fluid decreased in funnel you topped off (and I’m assuming you slightly opened bleeder to bleed air then closed), then went back to rev engine... how long did you wait after topping off before you went back to rev engine, or how do you know when to? Is it when coolant stops moving(increase/decrease) and/or when you no longer see bubbles? Is that the point when you know to rev engine again?
Ya wanted the extra capacity cause of the oil burning thing. I'm going to add the Mishimoto oil cooler next. Saw your radiator video looks good. Do you think the thin fan setup from Mishimoto will solve the tight clearance with the AC compressor?
AnthonyJ350 yeah it probably will solve it. Mine was a pita to install but with some maneuvering it fits just fine. I imagine the mishi fans also blow more air. I need to get a mishi thermalstat as the air in Florida is hot as hell
Well done, AJ have you had any issues with the Aisin thermo? It looks identical to the Mahle(made in Japan down to the green tag) I'm fixin to put in. I have only seen one other, silverstone 2006.5 with lower miles than yours, mine with 40k.
Cooling system has been great since we made the video. I've also been driving the car more in the colder weather this month since my truck is in the shop getting the top end redone.
How would you know that the vehicle is fully bled? Is it when all the coolant in the container is consumed or when the coolant isn’t decreasing anymore?
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you! Also, I might have missed this, but shout you increase the front end height of the car as you fill it with coolant? Then lower it as you’re revving to 2500 RPM?
I have a question I just noticed that when I first start my car cold, it builds up pressure, but not enough to push coolant into the reservoir, and when it reaches operating temperature, the pressure is normal coolant and the reservoir never gets above max and then settles to minimum when it’s cooled now with the radiator cap off and a spill free funnel. I start the car up and it pushes coolant out into the funnel, maybe about 6 ounces or 8 ounces and then stops and stays there cold and at operating temperature, does not overheat, cruising its at 178° to 183° and fluctuates in traffic as normal no air bubbles in the reservoir or the spill free funnel cold or operating temperature, everything is operating completely completely normal. I know this is a symptom of a leaking head gasket, but everything is operating perfectly as it should. Is there something else that causes pressure when it’s cold?….. it’s been doing this for nine months with no issues and I’m not losing coolant either and the heater works great.
Question so I am new to doing the bleeding when doing the bleeding you hold the gas at 2500 rpms for 10 seconds and turn the ignition off or leave it on idle ? And how long do you wait until you step on the gas again and will the funnel automatically stop when the radiator fluid is filled to the top ?
I would do 2500 RPM off and on until the cooling fan turn on. Then I let it idle for like 20 seconds then shut it off. I then repeat the process till the bubbles stop.
Currently need to replace oil filter coolant hose the one on top. Been looking all over for videos of removing the hose but have found non . I'm curious on whether I can replace it without having to remove the alternator . I see where it connects on bottom but not on top . Any advice on what i should do is welcome
Not sure honestly. I plan to put a silicon one in from Z1 possibly this year and you can watch the video. If things are in the way, I would remove the alternator so you can access it better. You might also want to pick up a service manual and study it to give you a plan of attack to take on the task.
Hey so I'm just confused on the steps you took. So you filler her up went and held at 2500 rpms for 10 secs. Then went screwed off the pressure valve in the back them tightened it. The. Burped the upper hose. Filled with more coolant in the funnel. And repeated a bunch of times. Correct?
I saw you only change one hose on thermostat , what about the small one? I am thinking about change small house on thermostat because I saw a small leak there. Do you know what is the name of the small hose. thx
I deleted the bleeder valve it broke on me and I needed to get somewhere to just used some 3/4 hose & adapter and I just bled it from the front and was able to get all the air out easier in my opinion I struggled with the valve.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, I changed the radiator just cause I was already changing the cooling fans and thermostat so figured might as well and I filled it all back up went to crack open the valve and it broke right in half so just got some 3/4 hose and a connector and closed it up. I saw another video where someone just raised the front end and let it run to temp and was able to get all the air bubbles out from the radiator and get the heater to start working so I did just that and it was way easier than going back and forth with the bleever valve and the car no longer overheats at idle or while in drive, runs great.
Hey Anthony, my Z has 85,000km should I replace my thermostat as a preventive measure? Or do you think it’s fine for the time being unless it gives me an issue
I changed my thermostat it has no leaks car still runs hot.. fan works, coolant changed out in radiator and reservoir what could it be it’s so stressful im like a doctor trying to figure out what’s wrong😩
AnthonyJ350 Yes, my cooling fans go on but my lower radiator hose stays cold, I am doing it on a driveway at an incline since I have no jack stands at the moment. Not sure what else I am doing wrong. Thanks for your help by the way lovely Z that you have.
Hi, I have problem with my car. I was chnaging knock sensor harness, and i was dissconecting throttle body heating and some coolant spil out. After i changed the harness I assembly it again. Hit the road and after 5-10km (3-6mls) car started overheating and reservoir was overfilled. I heard something about that this engine is really hard to bleed. I tried it like 10 times and every time it overheated again. After air bubbles stops comming from the radiator what should i do? Let the car completly cool? for how long? after that top the radioator and close it? A really dont know what to do, every garage is telling me that it is blown headgasket but it is bullsh*t. The car runs fine before I disconected the hoses.... Thanks
What if you do this and then after you move it outside and when you rev you can hear the coolant sloshing around? More air in the system and need to do again?
I am thinking of getting ALL the hoses where the coolant passes through swapped out to silicone, and then also use one of those aluminum bleeder port you can get from Z1. Any reason why those radiator hose kits don't come with the coolant bypass and heater set hoses in the set?
They come with the master kit. If you have an awd version you wont be able to use the oil cooler hoses and would have get oem from the dealer. Other than that, the master kit covers all the coolant hoses.
What if when after letting it cool down and you try opening the cap but the antifreeze Wants to come back out?does that mean there’s a lot of air that want to come back out?heater on gets hot when I’m revving it once I let go it stays warm.any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Can someone tell me what specifically the long hose is called on Z1 for the DE. Mine is busted and just looking to replace that hose or should I just replace all of them and not just the one ?
I did this but while doing so my coolant reservoir was overflowing so I thought that meant it was fine I got rid of the excess coolant but my car is still overheating any help?i just changes the thermostat could my new thermostat be bad?
AnthonyJ350 doing that now the reservoir is still over flowing it’s taking all the coolant but if I pour more the tank is gonna be full and will overflow blow cold air it takes it in but coolant spilled all over my driveway and not from the reservoir it thought it was taking it in but I guess not
Yes it stared to bubble but then boil but it was like jumping and coolant was leaking on my driveway so I think my new thermostat isn’t opening for the coolant to flow or something
Damn my 350z is over heating and the heater is blowing cold air! I already replaced the thermost and it still the same thing. What do yall think it is boys ?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes man I did everything I even used flush cleaner just in case and naa shit was still over heating, and the heater was still blowing cold air.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the fast reply lol. Installed it last night but was leaking due to the old bolts breaking off. Had to drive an hour to find a dealership that actually had them in stock
My factory tension clamps didn't fit onto the mishimoto front bypass hose. Had to get new clamps for this part unfortunately, but otherwise the hoses are great!
@@AnthonyJ350 Ive had bad experience using coolant, overtime it became gooey and clogged the radiator.....happened twice using two different very famous brands of coolant. Never going to use coolant again. Btw I am in middle east so no issue of freezing out !!!
I have to disagree about those new hoses sweating. I have been dealing with silicon hoses for years working on cars and trucks and they do not sweat. If so, they are on the verge of leaking! Also I have the master set from Z1 for my G and while we're in the dead of summer I have yet to encounter or ever heard of coolant hoses sweating!
That is just what I read on the properties of the material. Scroll down on this site for example and it seems these guys sell the product. www.siliconehose.com/blog/silicone-vs-rubber-hose/
That's discriminatory isn't it? I'm from Canada and the rest of the Commonwealth says Zed. Are you saying I need to conform to the United States pronunciation???
@@barryhall7 Yes but they don't degrade like rubber hoses do either. In theory they last as long as the vehicle. So they're not worse, they have different properties so different issues. As a vacuum line they're perfect. I think you're assuming too much here without enough context.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
I definitely have to get that funnel kit,took me hours bleeding a 2007 Infiniti M35 X with the cap on. Having the car raised while bleeding is very important as well,excellent video good job.
Thanks! Ya takes a while still but the funnel makes life easier.
This is the best coolant service video for 350z .
Thank you 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 I am currently replacing my thermostat. Do you just utilize the aluminum gasket or do you add silicone with it? I ask because I did this once replacing the gasket and it still leaked? So I am replacing it again rather frustrating
@@1MADZ Did you get a brand new gasket? Cause that's all I did.
Great Video as always.
I run an Mishimoto Kit ( Hoses , Radiatot, Thermostat and Fans ) and i couldn't be happier. The car hits operating temp fast ... less than 5 min. ( I live in France for reference)
Thanks for sharing your experience. I want to upgrade to the Mishimoto radiator, I'm going to do the oil cooler first.
I will be waiting for the Oil radiator video... cause thats the next thing on my to do list then i will focus on the brakes ( lines , rotors and pads )
@@jorgemarques8944 Ya I wanted to focus on easy supporting mods that will add durability and help maintain power when the vehicle is hot.
This is the channel I go to for 350z references
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
What I have done in the past, I did the bleeder valve to fill as shown with the heater on maximum... Then fill the over flow tank to the top of the cap...The system will burp through the radiator cap then suck coolant into the radiator once the engine cools down...After 5 heat cycles ,the coolant level will be exactly on the FULL mark....It almost appears as if the overflow tank was designed exactly for burping after coolant change.
Thanks for sharing!
Exactly! Can't be done in one shot. Took me three heating/cooling cycles to get the system fully bled. With that Lisle funnel the level will keep going down every heat cycle. Just keep topping it off an the system will eventually burp itself w/out having to even touch the bleeder screw.
I bought the OEM thermostat for my 10 G37 Coupe w/74,000k last week at Nissan dealer for $26. Same part # as Infiniti. Make sure you get the OEM gasket as it doesn’t come with thermostat. I paid $6.50 for that. Definitely remove parts he recommends This job is EASIER than replacing the cheap plastic heater hose connector which blew as a result of the bad thermostat.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Hope the car is running well.
If everyone was as attentive to their vehicles as this guy no one would buy new cars lol
That's what I'm trying to accomplish! lol
Nice video. It really shows how much time, effort and money you are putting into that magnificent car. It really looks great, grats for that! I hope you can enjoy that car for many years, and that it will give you nice memories!
Thank you! Yes the car has been great to me over the years. We're not done with it yet though, always trying to get more durability and increase its effectiveness on the street.
Liked and subscribed , not only did you give a thorough tutorial but you also made it entertaining 😂 “ nom nom nom”
Hahaha, sometimes you just have to have fun. With the dry topics
How do u manage to maintain your engine bay so clean?!?! Love the way you explained everything, I am now a loyal follower
Thanks for subscribing! I use this to keep the engine clean th-cam.com/video/3IrhI4GdyQQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pN5ihI_CraPJfD6U
Thanks sir.. very clear step and nice video💪👍👍
Glad it helped you! And thanks for watching!
Great video, done a radiator flush on my XR6 Turbo but not on my WRX yet. But had no idea how to bleed the system so detailed, thanx man
Glad it helped! Make sure to read your service manual, as every vehicle is different for cooling system designs. The 350Z is definitely one of the more time consuming ones to bleed air out of.
Bro give me some of those Sun Chips! Sharing is caring. Love your content man. I've been building a reliable fun NA Z and a lot of the things I would do you've already made videos for. Between you and thatbluezguy, Michael Gardner, and full throttle, there's a wealth of info. #HarvestCheddarGang
I'm happy to hear you're liking the content and what the other guys are putting out there.
Sweet vid AJ. Mishimoto thermostats have a higher temp threshold versus OEM. Aisin are good too. Some VQ owners I seen don't use factory coolant and they wonder why the engine blows up along with not topping off the oil.
You mean the Mishimoto opens earlier right? I like the Aisin one cause it was made in Japan and my Dad's work sold a lot of that brand with little issue. Trying to keep within factory parameters.
Ya you can't go wrong with factory coolant. I think it's typically the best, especially because it's formulated for how they design the system.
@@AnthonyJ350 correct. Opens early and can withstand 10-12degrees hotter than OEM
@@AnthonyJ350 by design of other aftermarket thermosats that says oem spec are red flags. Spring tensioners are not the same as the ones made in Japan
Do you run Mishimoto right now? I'm unfamiliar how the VQ likes that thermostat setting.
Great Video bro I Got the M35x An about to change the thermostat this will to be real helpful
Glad it helped!
I like it excellent work
Thank you!
Nice video Anthony! I had a question about where you found your specialized funnel, where’d ya find it haha?? 😅
Just at my local auto parts store
I drill 8 tiny holes in the outer ring of the thermostat ( steam holes ) It greatly reduces the bleed time, and those steam holes prevent air being trapped, and possibly burning a hole in the intake manifold from hot spots. I recommend doing that to all thermostats. One less possible fatal motor mistake.
Thanks for sharing!
If I owned my own place I'd get an air compressor and vacuum filler tool
Absolute pain in the ass to bleed these things. I put in an aluminium bleeder to replace the fragile plastic union at the heater line in my 370 and bled it from the heater hose and radiator air relief, was getting hot air and no bubbling noises but still getting heaps of air out using a funnel
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Ah there you go I commented on the "coolant bleeder replacement" video not knowing you already had a video showing the complete burping process. I still figure that you don't even have to open the bleeder, funnel takes care of everything. At least that's how it is with my Ford.
You'll want to crack it open when you refill it. These cars have a hard time bleeding.
Haha i was about to do my coolant flush this week , thanks for the vid! Hopefully HR is the same
You'll have to add a step and run clean water or distilled water through the system before you refill
Awesome info Anthony. Thanks!!
Your welcome!
I have an HR and want to do my thermostat as well, but my question is what made you go with an after market brand but same specs, wouldn't it be better just to get the oem from Nissan?? Awesome video man
Are you referring to the thermostat? I picked one that was made in Japan because I knew it would be good quality.
You want to use soft water instead of distilled. Distilled water is chemically unbalanced and will attracts electrons from metals.
Thanks for sharing!
That’s deionized water. Distilled is perfectly fine.
This is great! I'm planning to swap upper and lower radiator hoses this weekend and find this video to be one of the most helpful. From what I understand, my 2008 G35 with 3.5 L VQ35HR engine (vs VQ35"DE") doesn't have a bleeder screw, however, there's an Air Relief Plug "on radiator" (driver side) that should be opened on refilling and closed when coolant begins to flow out. I'm hoping using this procedure (w/ spill-free funnel) in combination of Air relief plug on radiator will work the same! At the very least I can follow the exact steps in service manual which doesn't involve using spill-free funnel, which means you must close radiator cap, and wait for car to cool each time. For anyone wondering, I got the manual from here: cardiagn.com/2008-infiniti-g35-engine-cooling-system/
P.S. The service manual does make mention of an Air Relief Plug on "heater hose" (i.e. bleeder); however, I've read differing comments of some saying it's there and it's not. Apparently, Infiniti started to phase them out post 2007 model. In fact, if you check the following link and select 2008 Infiniti, the OEM Coolant Bleeder Relief Valve shows as Not Compatible. conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-coolant-bleeder-relief-valve-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-92500-ar000_p_15693.php
Thanks so much for sharing! Main thing also is to elevate the front end and remember it might take some time to bleed the system. Takes me 30 to 45 minutes.
@@AnthonyJ350 I’m totally fine with time even if it takes 2hours. My main goal is to ensure it’s done right 🙂!
Only question I have...as you were going through the cycle of topping off coolant and rev’ing engine and holding at 2500/3000 rpm...how long did you wait “in-between”those events? Meaning, you started by filling coolant, open bleeder until fluid comes out then close, start car and turn on heat, rev engine, as fluid decreased in funnel you topped off (and I’m assuming you slightly opened bleeder to bleed air then closed), then went back to rev engine... how long did you wait after topping off before you went back to rev engine, or how do you know when to? Is it when coolant stops moving(increase/decrease) and/or when you no longer see bubbles? Is that the point when you know to rev engine again?
@@otm777 Only topped off if a lot of coolant went down. I only open the bleeder when it cooled off.
Nice video,what do you think about the OEM with gaskets? Price at $30 us,Thanks. 03 Stock with 125k .
If it's original Nissan on a car used on the street normally, nothing wrong with genuine parts.
good vid..cars very clean bro
Thank you!
Damn! I didnt know you had swapped out your oil pan! looks clean
Ya wanted the extra capacity cause of the oil burning thing. I'm going to add the Mishimoto oil cooler next. Saw your radiator video looks good. Do you think the thin fan setup from Mishimoto will solve the tight clearance with the AC compressor?
AnthonyJ350 yeah it probably will solve it. Mine was a pita to install but with some maneuvering it fits just fine. I imagine the mishi fans also blow more air. I need to get a mishi thermalstat as the air in Florida is hot as hell
@@Z33Garage Ya that makes sense. I have a Mishimoto thermostat in the video I'm not using. You want me to send it to you?
@@AnthonyJ350 ohh man! That would be cool, how much do you want for it?
@@Z33Garage Just pay me for the shipping and a shoutout on your channel lol. You can email me your info, info@gofasthavefun.ca
“Just don’t He Man it on” 😂😂
It's a unit of measurement isn't it??? Lol
nice video going to replace my hoses soon on my g35 do you have a link for the funnel ?
Thanks for watching! Your local auto parts store should have the no spill funnel.
Well done, AJ have you had any issues with the Aisin thermo? It looks identical to the Mahle(made in Japan down to the green tag) I'm fixin to put in. I have only seen one other, silverstone 2006.5 with lower miles than yours, mine with 40k.
Cooling system has been great since we made the video. I've also been driving the car more in the colder weather this month since my truck is in the shop getting the top end redone.
How would you know that the vehicle is fully bled? Is it when all the coolant in the container is consumed or when the coolant isn’t decreasing anymore?
When the coolant in the funnel stops bubbling, you should be good
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you! Also, I might have missed this, but shout you increase the front end height of the car as you fill it with coolant? Then lower it as you’re revving to 2500 RPM?
@@Mr_Odog You can just leave the front end of the car elevated the whole time.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks, man!
@@Mr_Odog You're welcome 🙂
I have a question I just noticed that when I first start my car cold, it builds up pressure, but not enough to push coolant into the reservoir, and when it reaches operating temperature, the pressure is normal coolant and the reservoir never gets above max and then settles to minimum when it’s cooled now with the radiator cap off and a spill free funnel. I start the car up and it pushes coolant out into the funnel, maybe about 6 ounces or 8 ounces and then stops and stays there cold and at operating temperature, does not overheat, cruising its at 178° to 183° and fluctuates in traffic as normal no air bubbles in the reservoir or the spill free funnel cold or operating temperature, everything is operating completely completely normal. I know this is a symptom of a leaking head gasket, but everything is operating perfectly as it should. Is there something else that causes pressure when it’s cold?….. it’s been doing this for nine months with no issues and I’m not losing coolant either and the heater works great.
The plastic overflow tank or the radiator itself?
@@AnthonyJ350 if you’re asking me which one is building pressure. Its the radiator because the overflow tank is vented.
Question so I am new to doing the bleeding when doing the bleeding you hold the gas at 2500 rpms for 10 seconds and turn the ignition off or leave it on idle ? And how long do you wait until you step on the gas again and will the funnel automatically stop when the radiator fluid is filled to the top ?
I would do 2500 RPM off and on until the cooling fan turn on. Then I let it idle for like 20 seconds then shut it off. I then repeat the process till the bubbles stop.
AnthonyJ350 awesome thank you so much !!
I watched the video may times and i never saw when to fill the reservoir or did i miss it twice?
I show how I fill the reservoir in this video th-cam.com/video/wT6Abx0rfdE/w-d-xo.html
Currently need to replace oil filter coolant hose the one on top. Been looking all over for videos of removing the hose but have found non . I'm curious on whether I can replace it without having to remove the alternator . I see where it connects on bottom but not on top . Any advice on what i should do is welcome
Not sure honestly. I plan to put a silicon one in from Z1 possibly this year and you can watch the video. If things are in the way, I would remove the alternator so you can access it better. You might also want to pick up a service manual and study it to give you a plan of attack to take on the task.
Hey so I'm just confused on the steps you took. So you filler her up went and held at 2500 rpms for 10 secs. Then went screwed off the pressure valve in the back them tightened it. The. Burped the upper hose. Filled with more coolant in the funnel. And repeated a bunch of times. Correct?
Correct, don't be surpised if this takes at least 45 mins to perform.
I saw you only change one hose on thermostat , what about the small one? I am thinking about change small house on thermostat because I saw a small leak there. Do you know what is the name of the small hose. thx
Z1 Motorsports has a full selection of specific hoses for these cars.
I deleted the bleeder valve it broke on me and I needed to get somewhere to just used some 3/4 hose & adapter and I just bled it from the front and was able to get all the air out easier in my opinion I struggled with the valve.
If that's what worked for you. Majority of people including myself need the bleeder. Did you drain the system?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, I changed the radiator just cause I was already changing the cooling fans and thermostat so figured might as well and I filled it all back up went to crack open the valve and it broke right in half so just got some 3/4 hose and a connector and closed it up. I saw another video where someone just raised the front end and let it run to temp and was able to get all the air bubbles out from the radiator and get the heater to start working so I did just that and it was way easier than going back and forth with the bleever valve and the car no longer overheats at idle or while in drive, runs great.
@@chrisd5758 OH I only open the bleeder on initial fill. If you watch the video, we're just running the engine.
Hey Anthony, my Z has 85,000km should I replace my thermostat as a preventive measure? Or do you think it’s fine for the time being unless it gives me an issue
I would change it the next time your change the coolant. A thermostat can either fail open or closed. You don't want it to fail closed in the summer.
23:00 a crappy mechanic, right at that moment will say you have a blown head gasket!
lol
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the vid.
Is this the same process for vqde/vqhr?
Bleeding the cooling system should be the same. Before you do the job you'll want to upgrade this part: th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.html
How many clamps are needed for the z1 radiator hose set? What sizes?
Take the number of hoses and multiply by 2
I changed my thermostat it has no leaks car still runs hot.. fan works, coolant changed out in radiator and reservoir what could it be it’s so stressful im like a doctor trying to figure out what’s wrong😩
Did you bleed the system like in the video? That part takes about 45 minutes alone.
trying the bleeing method, blowing cold air still and coolant level keeps going up funnel any other tips. Thanks.
Did you try squeezing the upper radiator hose to help burp it? It takes a long time to bleed these cars.
AnthonyJ350 Yes, my cooling fans go on but my lower radiator hose stays cold, I am doing it on a driveway at an incline since I have no jack stands at the moment. Not sure what else I am doing wrong. Thanks for your help by the way lovely Z that you have.
@@fernandomartinez8226 Thanks! Were you able to bleed the cooling system?
@@AnthonyJ350 350z's have a bleeder valve for the coolant system on the passenger side of the engine bay between the battery and engine.
@@DaveDuzzit I show the bleeder in the video
Hi, I have problem with my car. I was chnaging knock sensor harness, and i was dissconecting throttle body heating and some coolant spil out. After i changed the harness I assembly it again. Hit the road and after 5-10km (3-6mls) car started overheating and reservoir was overfilled. I heard something about that this engine is really hard to bleed. I tried it like 10 times and every time it overheated again. After air bubbles stops comming from the radiator what should i do? Let the car completly cool? for how long? after that top the radioator and close it? A really dont know what to do, every garage is telling me that it is blown headgasket but it is bullsh*t. The car runs fine before I disconected the hoses.... Thanks
Did you let the car warm up with the bleeder screw out near the firewall?
Snacking with the same hand as unscrewing the drain? Coolant flavoured Sun Chips?
I'm still alive though
@@AnthonyJ350 ya true...and maybe with better temperature regulation than before
What if you do this and then after you move it outside and when you rev you can hear the coolant sloshing around? More air in the system and need to do again?
Did you use the funnel like in the video?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes I did.
@@chacebusness6451 And bubbles stopped?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes, didn’t for a good 10 mins. And ik the thermostat opened and everything
@@chacebusness6451 Drive around with the heater turned all the way up and the fan on and see how everything works.
I did the radiator hose upgrade and changed my thermostat to the factory one instead of the Mishimoto one
Nice!
I am thinking of getting ALL the hoses where the coolant passes through swapped out to silicone, and then also use one of those aluminum bleeder port you can get from Z1.
Any reason why those radiator hose kits don't come with the coolant bypass and heater set hoses in the set?
They come with the master kit. If you have an awd version you wont be able to use the oil cooler hoses and would have get oem from the dealer. Other than that, the master kit covers all the coolant hoses.
There's a full kit Z1 sells. I eventually swapped to their bleeder as well. Definitely worth the money th-cam.com/video/A0TmDY5yq5k/w-d-xo.html
How much coolant (mixed) would you say you used during the flush?
A jug
What if when after letting it cool down and you try opening the cap but the antifreeze Wants to come back out?does that mean there’s a lot of air that want to come back out?heater on gets hot when I’m revving it once I let go it stays warm.any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
After it cooled down did you open the bleeder screw?
i looked on that side for the bleeder screw and it seems to be bypassed? any other ideas
They just installed a new coupler? You can purchase the funnel I showed in the video, jack the front end up and bleed the car like in the video.
@@AnthonyJ350 just purchased the z1 bleeder.. fucking$34 jeeez
How high does the car have to be raised, is it high enough on regular ramps?
However high you put it to do an oil change should be fine.
AnthonyJ350 thanks man👍
i recently had a issue..my car was over heating and my reservoir backed up and got extremely full..
There's probably air in the system still.
@@AnthonyJ350 i don't know.. happened after installing new a/c
Would you use a lower temp thermostat?
I just use the OEM one
@@AnthonyJ350 Think I'm gonna try a Nismo low temp unit since I'll be running the Rev-up harder in the summer.
Can you suggest a good product to flush the system ?
If you change the coolant every 2 years, flushing with distilled water should be enough.
Is this the same process for the HR? Or is there any extra?
I want to say it is, but it's best to refer to your service manual while doing the job
AnthonyJ350 I absolutely hate reading the manual haha but thanks tho. Can’t argue with you on that.
Its the same.
What size hose clamp did you use? Mine snapped and I binned it so no idea to tell 😅
Measure the diameter of the hose.
@@AnthonyJ350 lol did already. 25mm for anyone needing to know
What about for the smaller hose clamps
Can someone tell me what specifically the long hose is called on Z1 for the DE. Mine is busted and just looking to replace that hose or should I just replace all of them and not just the one ?
I would replace all if you can as preventative maintenance.
So You Got A Upper And Lower Hose But What The 3rd Called?
The cross over hose?
I’m trying to bleed it but the lower radiator hose won’t get hot like the other ones Does that mean my thermostat is stuck closed
Did you fill the radiator with the bleeder open?
AnthonyJ350 yea I filled it just like you did until coolant came out from the bleeder port while the engine was completely cold
@@ziibolifts also was the front raised and higher than the rear? It sometimes helps get rid of air.
AnthonyJ350 yes I did. It’s finally bleeding properly. Thanks either way. The video still helped to confirm and doubts I had
@@ziibolifts Glad it helped. Ua they're hard to bleed
How did your bleeding go
Really well
Where did you buy your worm clamps?
Local auto parts store carries stainless versions
I did this but while doing so my coolant reservoir was overflowing so I thought that meant it was fine I got rid of the excess coolant but my car is still overheating any help?i just changes the thermostat could my new thermostat be bad?
Keep bleeding the system with the front end up.
AnthonyJ350 doing that now the reservoir is still over flowing it’s taking all the coolant but if I pour more the tank is gonna be full and will overflow blow cold air it takes it in but coolant spilled all over my driveway and not from the reservoir it thought it was taking it in but I guess not
@@TheDemonicDeity try squeezing the hoses to help burp the system. Did you fill it to the top at the radiator first?
Yes it stared to bubble but then boil but it was like jumping and coolant was leaking on my driveway so I think my new thermostat isn’t opening for the coolant to flow or something
@@TheDemonicDeity Did you do a 50/50 mix of coolant a and distilled water or is it premixed?
So no silicone when installing the thermostat?
If you can get a factory gasket, I've had no leaks.
Do I have to put RTV or gasket maker on top of the OEM gasket?
I left the OEM gasket alone
AnthonyJ350 How is it holding up?
@@malcolmd4243 Really good. Cooling system works properly and no leaks I have a video on a new bleeder you might want to look into
Y coolant hose system broke they trying to charge 550.00 is that too much
Depends what's broken and what has to be done to fix it
Where can I get that fill funnel radiator cap?
I got it at my local Lordco auto parts store
i’ve never seen someone care what thermostat housing looks like 😂😂😂
You do if you notice and care how things are constructed. Some people like having and noticing attention to detail.
did you replace the heater hoes that goes to the engine?
Not yet
Is the bottom plastic cover of the car needed? Can i leave mine off?
Damn my 350z is over heating and the heater is blowing cold air! I already replaced the thermost and it still the same thing. What do yall think it is boys ?
Did you bleed the system like in the video? It could take up to 45 mins to bleed it properly. The car needs to be at an angle.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes man I did everything I even used flush cleaner just in case and naa shit was still over heating, and the heater was still blowing cold air.
@@RObert75088 When did it start overheating?
@@AnthonyJ350 on friday of last week bro out of no where
@@RObert75088 How much time did you spend bleeding the cooling system?
Use anything to seal the gasket?
Just the new factory gasket.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the fast reply lol. Installed it last night but was leaking due to the old bolts breaking off. Had to drive an hour to find a dealership that actually had them in stock
@@cryptocitys6790 Did you torque them down with a torque wrench that can do Inch LBS?
@@AnthonyJ350 no that was my mistake before watching this video
Genial me gustarian subtitulos en español pero hago mi esfuerzo por entender
We'll see what we can do about sub titles. Thanks for the feedback!
No liquid chill?
Nope, just good old OEM
I would really avoid reusing factory clamps. Clamps are cheap peace of mind.
What's wrong with the tension clamps? They can't ever back off. But they are difficult to use some times.
My factory tension clamps didn't fit onto the mishimoto front bypass hose. Had to get new clamps for this part unfortunately, but otherwise the hoses are great!
Distilled water is better than any coolant
You still need coolant for anti-corrosion inhibitors, lubricant and it raises the boiling point. Also need it for colder climates.
But yes distilled water is better as a heat exchanger. If you put an oil cooler on even better.
@@AnthonyJ350 Ive had bad experience using coolant, overtime it became gooey and clogged the radiator.....happened twice using two different very famous brands of coolant. Never going to use coolant again. Btw I am in middle east so no issue of freezing out !!!
@@exoticfish78 Did you mix the coolant with distilled water?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes I did earlier
I have to disagree about those new hoses sweating. I have been dealing with silicon hoses for years working on cars and trucks and they do not sweat. If so, they are on the verge of leaking! Also I have the master set from Z1 for my G and while we're in the dead of summer I have yet to encounter or ever heard of coolant hoses sweating!
I hope so cause that would make my life easier.
That is just what I read on the properties of the material. Scroll down on this site for example and it seems these guys sell the product.
www.siliconehose.com/blog/silicone-vs-rubber-hose/
@@AnthonyJ350 Its summer again and the only thing my hoses are is dirty! 😄 still going strong tho! 💯
@@ahumm8280 That's great to hear!
I enjoy your videos but for the love of god.... please just say Z and quit saying Zed
That's discriminatory isn't it? I'm from Canada and the rest of the Commonwealth says Zed. Are you saying I need to conform to the United States pronunciation???
Great idea fitting worse hoses for no reason 🤔😂
What makes them worse fundamentally?
You did say that the replacement hoses 'sweat' so you have to keep an eye on the coolant level more
@@barryhall7 Yes but they don't degrade like rubber hoses do either. In theory they last as long as the vehicle. So they're not worse, they have different properties so different issues. As a vacuum line they're perfect.
I think you're assuming too much here without enough context.
@@barryhall7 You should be checking your coolant level anyways. It's not like I'm loosing a ton or if noticeable at all.
@@AnthonyJ350 you are right, I'm just being argumentative, scheduled and routine maintenance are very important. 👍🏻
Hey bro so the at the end the radiator is supposed to suck all of the coolant fluid back into the radiator as shown in the video?
It will until all the air is out