My A4 from 2000 had this problem for 3 years. Intermittent no start and left stranded miles from home 2/3 times. The switch in my car was behind the clutch pedal next door to the brake pedal. You got me looking in the right place. Thanks for saving my car.
Thank you very much Harvey. I watched your video from Thailand. Which Skoda doesn't have for sale here for a long time. A repairman with the understanding and finding the right spare parts for my fabia 2004 that ran over 250,000 kilometers was a hassle. And quite expensive But your video will help me solve the problem more accurately. Thank you very much.
For anyone having the same problem. I’ve been going through the same thing. Had a brand new battery fitted, had a brand new starter motor fitted. The alternator is sending charge to the battery and works fine. I had about 3 different people, a mechanic, a breakdown recovery guy and a key specialist look at my car and the last two figured that basically the problem is that the car has forgotton the code for the key. So he went into my car and put the code back in. It works most of the time now, but still I get the immobiliser light come on occasionally when it’s too hot. So this method is my last resort with a car electrics specialist. I’m praying that it will work
Yes this does sound exactly like the conditions mine failed under. You can do it yourself if you are up to it, but if not better any electronics guy should be able to re-flow PCB solder joints. hope you can get it fixed and feel free to let me know how you get on :-)
Thank you! It worked for my skoda. In my case those two pins were damaged. So I soldered for first time and since then no problem with imobiliser warning light.
I have exactly the same problem. Only when its warm does the immobiliser block the car, so hopefully soldering will fix it :) An auto-electrician told me its the ECU and I havent seen anything about this solution on the internet
@@HatBoyHarvey please may i ask i changed my cluster due to a faulty petrol gauge . Now my car starts but then switches off just like in your video . Do i need to reprogram the key ? Thanks in advance
У меня точно такая же проблема была с иммобилайзером ,на такой же Skoda Fabia MK1, только ещё дополнительно выходил трижды звуковой сигнал , а потом на панели высвечивался красный значок "Высокая температура Охлаждающей жидкости" и затем, сразу же, стрелка на указателе Уровня топлива в баке - падала на ноль. Поменял модуль бензонасоса. Поменял Датчик уровня топлива. Ничего не помогало. Всё оставалось по прежнему. И только посмотрев видео другого английского автолюбителя с точно таким же содержанием, я понял что проблема кроется вот в этих контактах под 32 контактный штекер ( тот зелёный, с фиолетовым фиксатором). Так вот, для того , чтобы работал Указатель уровня топлива на Щитке Приборов нужно хорошенько осмотреть и пропаять так же те контакты с левой стороны, на которые указывал автор видео. Это будут контакты 16 и 17 -ый, и 31 и 32-ой. И у меня исчезли проблемы с неработающим Указателем уровня топлива, всплывающим сигналом Высокая температура Охлаждающей жидкости, и Иммобилазером. Удачи всем уважаемые Skoda-воды (водители)! P.S. Кстати после пропайки контактов у меня , также, всплыла ошибка на панели - Подушка безопасности. Надо пересмотреть повнимательнее видео, чтобы понять, как её устранить I had exactly the same problem with the immobilizer, on the same Skoda Fabia MK1, only an additional beep sounded three times, and then a red icon "High Coolant temperature" was displayed on the panel and then, immediately, the arrow on the fuel level indicator in the tank fell to zero. I changed the fuel pump module. I changed the fuel level sensor. Nothing helped. Everything remained the same. And it was only after watching the video of another English car enthusiast with exactly the same content that I realized that the problem lies in these contacts under the 32-pin plug (the green one with the purple retainer). So, in order for the Fuel level Indicator on the Dashboard to work, you need to carefully inspect and solder the contacts on the left side that the author of the video pointed to. These will be contacts 16 and 17, and 31 and 32. And I no longer have problems with a non-working Fuel level indicator, a pop-up High Coolant temperature signal, and an Immobilizer. Good luck to all dear Skoda-vody (drivers)! P.S. By the way, after soldering the contacts, I also had an error with pop-up icon on panel - the Airbag . It's need to me review the video more closely to understand how to eliminate it
Key battery has nothing to do with imobilizer. IMO transponder is powered by EM field generated by the coil around key hole. Versions without central locking do not have battery in the key. Nevertheless great job doing Skoda Fabia more "open platform" :D
أفترض أن السيارة تعمل ثم تتوقف؟ إذا كان المفتاح هو الصحيح، فلن تحدث إعادة الترميز أي فرق، وإذا كان المفتاح صحيحًا، فنعم، يمكنك ترميز ذلك بعد إصلاح المجموعة.
Thank you for you're kind comments, glad you liked it, hope you never have this issue as it was a delicate fix and I guess would have cost a lot if a specialist was needed, thankfully I could fix it without! :-)
Great video Harvey, as always it comes from you! I really enjoy watching your tutorials and I appreciate that you so generously share your knowledge with us! From my point of view, Škodas are well made and reliable cars, so sometimes I`m wondering how is it possible that you have so much things to fix to us on that specific car? However, I am assured that your Fabi is in best hands!
Yes, Skodas are on the whole built well and reliable, but I have had mine from new and it is now been a long time and all things wear out eventually over time I guess. it is a testament to Skoda that there are so many old Fabias still around which says just how good they are. Mine has just started to rust a bit in places, but could go on for many years still :-) :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you for the feedback. Mine is 2003., and so far has had no serious issues (odometer is on 81.000 km - that`s may be the answer :-) ). I wish you a lot of miles with your Fabia!!!
Your videos are great, always very helpful. I have problem with the reverse lights on the fabia. They stopped working when I shift into reverse gear. Have you encountered such an issue before?
Thank you, glad you like them. I would check the lamps in the rear cluster are inserted correctly and have the correct lamps first, then trace/check the wires to the reversing switch on the gearbox and replace if necessary :-)
Yes, but this comes on for a miriad of issues. EGR valve cleaning, spark plugs, O2 sensor, brake light switch, low oil or coolent. if you look to fix the basics it may solve the issue or get the car scanned with a code reader which can/should identify the fault :-)
At: 3:27 in the video, but the airbag light still came on with mine, never found out why (maybe I knocked somthing) so proceed with caution. It needs obd2 software to clear:-)
Yes. The polo has the same basic floor train and say a 2005 instrument binnacle is very similar and probably identical ECB, so it would be worth taking it out to check for dry solder joints.
Airbag warning light will not come on if battery is removed before disconecting the instrument cluster, Škoda Service manual recomends disconecting battery for any work when something is unpluged from any Controll Unit. Remote control and Immobiliser are separate systems both in key and in car, most likely because Immobiliser is standard in every Fabia and Remote not. In key the electronics are for remote and glass vial is IMO chip i think ID48. Also Immobiliser is handled as you said by Instrument cluster unit CAN adress 17 and remote control is handled by comfort electronics control unit CAN adress 46 it think. Anyway great video.
That is what I understood to be so, but after I removed/refit mine the light came on. Maybe in my case it had something to do with the instrument repair itself, anyway It is at least a word of caution for those attempting this specific repair. Should I re-edit the video?
@@HatBoyHarvey I quess thats up to you, i wrote it as you say as a word of caution. I know as a fact that on the after Facelift Fabia MY2005 forward it will not ligth up airbag light with battery removed, tried multiple times. But acording to Skoda service manual it should be same for every model year. The thing is i dont know which CU creates this error, if it is Instrument Panel than it is not serious problem, if the error is created by Airbag CU than it should be avoided. Everything concerning airbags should be threated with some caution.
If you are talking about the binnacle the clip moves outwards I seem to remember then just pull, maybe yours has broken off and the lower part is stuck on the clip. the clip is towards the outside of the unit. Hope this helps :-)
Interesting, I had this on the Superb a while back. When it happened car struggled to start then did start during first day, then less so the next as dim light faded away and after a week light a nd starting issue went away. My theory is that a micro-break in a soldered board connection caused an intermittent momentary open circuit triggering a warning light, but then voltage jumps across the gap again eventually melting and fusing the gap together again. But when a gap gets too big no spark jumps the gap and a fault occurs. Pin connection may do a similar thing with moisture present. Sure, have a go re-flowing, won't harm if your ok with it. Hope it solves the issue, let me know the result, thanks :-)
Hiya my car is having the same issue, I start it first tile and starts but after driving for a while I turn it off and then start it back and the same thing happens as your video. I'm from uk Birmingham any ideas where I can take it, to get this fix as I cannot do it myself. Great video !!!
Hi, have you first tried the brake pedal switch? don't overlook this as it can be done very cheaply and often fixes these issues (get the updated version, later models have them). my other video: th-cam.com/video/So8m6LwsD4c/w-d-xo.html shows this with more detail. I've heard reports that hot weather affects this which happened to me one summer in France, luckily it rectified itself and I was able to drive home, so I know how helpless this can make you feel. There are companies that do cover this sort of thing, but I wouldn't know anymore than you who to go to. Some offer a postal service so they might be worth using if you can ring them with the issue first to see if they have come accross the issue before. Sorry I can't be of more help, but hope you can get it fixed and thanks for watching :-)
hello, does the pin soldering trick work on octavia 2? or is the cluster different? my octavia 2 gives me immobilizer active when outside temperature is too low.
I'm sure the cluster is not quite the same, but re-soldering joints is universal. It does sound as though the cold is effecting some connections somewhere, but it may not be here. Vagcom may help to pinpoint a possible fault location if you can get access to that when it is playing up. Saying that, it won't harm having a look.
hi hat boy, im watching your very handy videos on skoda fabia, im intrested in getting the 1.9 tdi estate version of your car,i also like the x type jag diesel , i think it was based on the mondeo, anyway, if you could please, spare 2 mins to help me ,with some questions that would be great, i like to do my own basic maintanence like your self, is the skoda as reliable as they say?, as you have needed to fix alot of things, is the jag a more reliable car?, considering they have the fancy double clutch things that cost alot when they go, with the choice , what would you choose between them,? same 1,500 budget whats best on mpg? these 4 questions will be your good deed for the day sir, thank you !
Thanks. The Fabia is v old with high mileage so most repairs I have done are due to age related wear. I haven’t fixed the Jag much, but this one has approximately half the mileage of the fabia. These cars do different things so it would be down to your personal needs and which you like the best. Buy the newest car with the lowest mileage and dints etc, for your budget is my advice, but only if you like the car. The Jag is a luxury drive that could potentially be expensive to fix as it has lots more lux items to go wrong. Economy: Fabia 60-75mpg, Jag 53mpg, easy driving. VRS is very fast, but TDI is good too. Diesel is becoming less popular with legislators (low emission zones, tax) in favour of electric. Road tax on both these models is approximately the same, if I recall correctly. Hope this helps :-)
I would if i could, but unfortunately I don't have parking sensors on my MK1 Comfort :-( I plan to upgrade to a MK2 sometime and I'll make sure it comes with those as they are very useful, especially if your eyesight isn't to good :-)
I have a skoda Felicia 1.6, the car turns over for 2 seconds and then dies, the symptoms point to an Immobilizer fault, the car has 2 keys and neither start the car, any ideas where to start looking/checking. The instrument cluster doesn't have a key symbol like the Fabia. Any information would be appreciated
It could be just the connections behind the instrument cluster or the reader wire. Start by looking for something obvious, loose, detached or missing then delve a little dealer. I wouldn't rule out the PCB for dry solder joints as they do occur on many makes and will be sure to increase in future :-)
Use the knob on the left, under the speedometer. Turning it to the LEFT changes the hours, RIGHT changes the minutes. You will have to scroll it through to find the correct hr :-)
Hi, assuming you haven't messed with anything recently, if you have, check there. Moving the seats can upset the connections, if you have them. I've known this to happen when the battery is failing, re-charge overnight- then check. VCDS will also help diagnose, if you can gain access to it. Hope this helps :-)
Maybe the switch on the mini pcb board is stuck on. dismantle the key and free it up. I take it you havn't got another key. Is the imobiliser light on, on the dash?
Car battery needs to be above 7.6V. Keyfob may need reprogramming. Module maybe faulty or bad connections anywhere from door catch lock to voltage control unit, CL module, fuses and battery ground. OBD2 fault code reader should pinpoint where to look.
I can only suggest this may also work for the Mk1 Octavia as they look the same as on the Fabia, almost identical, but check the instrument connections may be different. Let me know how you get on :-)
You can do it in short burts as the engine will run shortly. If it doesn't do that then turning the starter may work at bit (not tried it) otherwise pull it round by hand making sure the steering lock is off :-)
@@kwabenagyimah3210 that's the problem then, he needs to fix it. Find out exactly what he has done so you can take it somewhere that may help sort it out. Another ECU will need to be programmed also.
Try not to get too despondent with it or you may break something. Take your time, check you have taken all the screws out and ease each part off one part at a time and work out where it is getting stuck. I've had this now and again at the top and found jiggling it works :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey dashboard is held only by two screws, isnt it? i removed these two screws, but i wasnt able to move with dasboard at all. i tried to hook two thick wires around two screw holes that are at the bottom of the dasboard. i manage to pull the dasboard for about half of centimeter (0,2 inches). After half centimeter of movement the dasboard stoped and plastic around screw holes started to bend. I tried to jiggle it, push it back and forth. but nothing helped. it looks like something in back of dasboard holding it and preventing dasboard to move forward. (maybe some wire isnt long enaugh? its hopeless. im not far away from crying...) i have never solving any car problem before and now i feel like im being forced to disassembly whole dasboard console because i dont know other way to pull off the dasboard... Sorry for my bad english and thanks for the response, your video is very helpful!
You mean the Instrument cluster/panel/binnacle, sorry, I understand now. The cables at the back maybe preventing it from coming forward. you can reach up behind at the back on one side (door side) I think and push the cables a little.Be careful, but firm, maybe use a torch and good light. I hope you can find what is preventing it coming out without breaking anything :)
@@HatBoyHarvey what do you mean by "reaching from the side"? did you mean through there (left or right side) i.imgur.com/EZpTMeB.png (because there doesn't seems to be a way to reach any of the cables) Can i reach the cables removing this plastic piece? i.imgur.com/yV5mN86.png
My A4 from 2000 had this problem for 3 years. Intermittent no start and left stranded miles from home 2/3 times. The switch in my car was behind the clutch pedal next door to the brake pedal. You got me looking in the right place. Thanks for saving my car.
Hope you've been able to fix it. There is also a possibility your dashboard PCB has dry solder joints.
Thank you very much Harvey. I watched your video from Thailand. Which Skoda doesn't have for sale here for a long time. A repairman with the understanding and finding the right spare parts for my fabia 2004 that ran over 250,000 kilometers was a hassle. And quite expensive But your video will help me solve the problem more accurately. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome, thanks for watching :-)
For anyone having the same problem. I’ve been going through the same thing. Had a brand new battery fitted, had a brand new starter motor fitted. The alternator is sending charge to the battery and works fine. I had about 3 different people, a mechanic, a breakdown recovery guy and a key specialist look at my car and the last two figured that basically the problem is that the car has forgotton the code for the key. So he went into my car and put the code back in. It works most of the time now, but still I get the immobiliser light come on occasionally when it’s too hot. So this method is my last resort with a car electrics specialist. I’m praying that it will work
Yes this does sound exactly like the conditions mine failed under. You can do it yourself if you are up to it, but if not better any electronics guy should be able to re-flow PCB solder joints. hope you can get it fixed and feel free to let me know how you get on :-)
Thank you! It worked for my skoda. In my case those two pins were damaged. So I soldered for first time and since then no problem with imobiliser warning light.
You're very welcome, great to hear you got your car up and running without annoying dashboard lights :-)
I have exactly the same problem. Only when its warm does the immobiliser block the car, so hopefully soldering will fix it :) An auto-electrician told me its the ECU and I havent seen anything about this solution on the internet
@@HatBoyHarvey please may i ask i changed my cluster due to a faulty petrol gauge . Now my car starts but then switches off just like in your video . Do i need to reprogram the key ?
Thanks in advance
У меня точно такая же проблема была с иммобилайзером ,на такой же Skoda Fabia MK1, только ещё дополнительно выходил трижды звуковой сигнал , а потом на панели высвечивался красный значок "Высокая температура Охлаждающей жидкости" и затем, сразу же, стрелка на указателе Уровня топлива в баке - падала на ноль. Поменял модуль бензонасоса. Поменял Датчик уровня топлива. Ничего не помогало. Всё оставалось по прежнему. И только посмотрев видео другого английского автолюбителя с точно таким же содержанием, я понял что проблема кроется вот в этих контактах под 32 контактный штекер ( тот зелёный, с фиолетовым фиксатором). Так вот, для того , чтобы работал Указатель уровня топлива на Щитке Приборов нужно хорошенько осмотреть и пропаять так же те контакты с левой стороны, на которые указывал автор видео. Это будут контакты 16 и 17 -ый, и 31 и 32-ой. И у меня исчезли проблемы с неработающим Указателем уровня топлива, всплывающим сигналом Высокая температура Охлаждающей жидкости, и Иммобилазером. Удачи всем уважаемые Skoda-воды (водители)! P.S. Кстати после пропайки контактов у меня , также, всплыла ошибка на панели - Подушка безопасности. Надо пересмотреть повнимательнее видео, чтобы понять, как её устранить
I had exactly the same problem with the immobilizer, on the same Skoda Fabia MK1, only an additional beep sounded three times, and then a red icon "High Coolant temperature" was displayed on the panel and then, immediately, the arrow on the fuel level indicator in the tank fell to zero. I changed the fuel pump module. I changed the fuel level sensor. Nothing helped. Everything remained the same. And it was only after watching the video of another English car enthusiast with exactly the same content that I realized that the problem lies in these contacts under the 32-pin plug (the green one with the purple retainer). So, in order for the Fuel level Indicator on the Dashboard to work, you need to carefully inspect and solder the contacts on the left side that the author of the video pointed to. These will be contacts 16 and 17, and 31 and 32. And I no longer have problems with a non-working Fuel level indicator, a pop-up High Coolant temperature signal, and an Immobilizer. Good luck to all dear Skoda-vody (drivers)! P.S. By the way, after soldering the contacts, I also had an error with pop-up icon on panel - the Airbag . It's need to me review the video more closely to understand how to eliminate it
The video was such a joy to watch, clear and the sound was spot on. Well done and thanks
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it and good to know the sound was right :-)
Key battery has nothing to do with imobilizer. IMO transponder is powered by EM field generated by the coil around key hole. Versions without central locking do not have battery in the key. Nevertheless great job doing Skoda Fabia more "open platform" :D
Same problem with seat ibiza 1.2 2003, 100% fix the problem. Thank you!
You're very welcome, Glad to have helped :-)
I have the same car with the same problem. I wil make my self to see if this work. Thank you
Haha 2:30 turn the engine on to turn the steering wheel to fix the immobilizer which won't let you turn the engine on, pro tips here. Good Video.
The engine turns on for 2 seconds at a time so you can turn the wheel each time, just keep doing it ;-)
نفس المشكله عندي خنفساء 2001 احاول اصلاحها من دون جدوى سأجرب طريقتك … شكرا لك على الفيديو الجميل
شكرا لك.
@@HatBoyHarvey شكرا هارفي لقد نجحت طريقتك اشتغلت سيارتي حمدلله… هل تستطيع ان تدلني على موقع او شخص يستطيع اعطائي كود المفتاح حق سيارتي و سأدفع له
أفترض أن السيارة تعمل ثم تتوقف؟ إذا كان المفتاح هو الصحيح، فلن تحدث إعادة الترميز أي فرق، وإذا كان المفتاح صحيحًا، فنعم، يمكنك ترميز ذلك بعد إصلاح المجموعة.
@@HatBoyHarvey فقط محتاج كود المفتاح لعمل مفتاح آخر… حاليا السيارة تعمل بمفتاح الوكيل و لم يستطيع احد استخراج كود المفتاح لعمل مفتاح آخر 💖💖💖
Hello Harvey. Nice tutorial, you really saved me with this one. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, no Problem, only glad to pass on any help I can :-)
Good methodical fault diagnosis & repair
Thank you for you're kind comments, glad you liked it, hope you never have this issue as it was a delicate fix and I guess would have cost a lot if a specialist was needed, thankfully I could fix it without! :-)
Great video Harvey, as always it comes from you!
I really enjoy watching your tutorials and I appreciate that you so generously share your knowledge with us!
From my point of view, Škodas are well made and reliable cars, so sometimes I`m wondering how is it possible that you have so much things to fix to us on that specific car? However, I am assured that your Fabi is in best hands!
Yes, Skodas are on the whole built well and reliable, but I
have had mine from new and it is now been a long time and all things wear out
eventually over time I guess. it is a testament to Skoda that there are so many
old Fabias still around which says just how good they are. Mine has just
started to rust a bit in places, but could go on for many years still :-) :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you for the feedback. Mine is 2003., and so far has had no serious issues (odometer is on 81.000 km - that`s may be the answer :-) ).
I wish you a lot of miles with your Fabia!!!
Your videos are great, always very helpful. I have problem with the reverse lights on the fabia. They stopped working when I shift into reverse gear. Have you encountered such an issue before?
Thank you, glad you like them. I would check the lamps in the rear cluster are inserted correctly and have the correct lamps first, then trace/check the wires to the reversing switch on the gearbox and replace if necessary :-)
Very informative videos, thank you for the time spent to make them, really helpful!
Thanks, you're very welcome :-)
Salut!Am avut aceeași problema si am facut exact ca in video,a functionat,multumesc!
Ai testat deloc conexiunea?
Am refacut lipiturile de la ultimii 6 pini,erau fisurate...salutare!
Eu l-am pus dar nimic tot așa oare de ce
Hello. I'm glad I got your channel. Could you do a Video about check engine for skoda fabia?
Yes, but this comes on for a miriad of issues. EGR valve cleaning, spark plugs, O2 sensor, brake light switch, low oil or coolent. if you look to fix the basics it may solve the issue or get the car scanned with a code reader which can/should identify the fault :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey The mechanic said it's from sensor 02. It's not flawed. Petrol is the problem
My friend did you remove the battery ( minus) . Thnx for video.
At: 3:27 in the video, but the airbag light still came on with mine, never found out why (maybe I knocked somthing) so proceed with caution. It needs obd2 software to clear:-)
Hi Harvey, great vid, but how did you disconnect the wires from the reader coil?
Resoldered the first 4 pins, seems to have sorted the problem, thanks again, thanks to your vids I have a running Fabia
Great to hear you have sorted it and are back riding the Fabi again :-)
Hi, is that a valid solution for a 2003 wv polo too? I have the same problem on my old car..
Yes. The polo has the same basic floor train and say a 2005 instrument binnacle is very similar and probably identical ECB, so it would be worth taking it out to check for dry solder joints.
Airbag warning light will not come on if battery is removed before disconecting the instrument cluster, Škoda Service manual recomends disconecting battery for any work when something is unpluged from any Controll Unit. Remote control and Immobiliser are separate systems both in key and in car, most likely because Immobiliser is standard in every Fabia and Remote not. In key the electronics are for remote and glass vial is IMO chip i think ID48. Also Immobiliser is handled as you said by Instrument cluster unit CAN adress 17 and remote control is handled by comfort electronics control unit CAN adress 46 it think. Anyway great video.
That is what I understood to be so, but after I removed/refit mine the light came on. Maybe in my case it had something to do with the instrument repair itself, anyway It is at least a word of caution for those attempting this specific repair. Should I re-edit the video?
@@HatBoyHarvey I quess thats up to you, i wrote it as you say as a word of caution. I know as a fact that on the after Facelift Fabia MY2005 forward it will not ligth up airbag light with battery removed, tried multiple times. But acording to Skoda service manual it should be same for every model year. The thing is i dont know which CU creates this error, if it is Instrument Panel than it is not serious problem, if the error is created by Airbag CU than it should be avoided. Everything concerning airbags should be threated with some caution.
Hi,nice video l have a same problem only when weather is too hot 40c or higher in summer for over last two years.l did not fix it yet 😬
Yes, I have heard that hot weather also affects this and I experienced that also. Thanks for watching :-)
Great fix
Hi Harvey. I’m have trouble disconnecting the left connector, any tips? TIA
If you are talking about the binnacle the clip moves outwards I seem to remember then just pull, maybe yours has broken off and the lower part is stuck on the clip. the clip is towards the outside of the unit. Hope this helps :-)
My orange light seems to be dimly lighting up (not flashing), car still starts fine though. Should I reflow binnacle joins anyway?
Interesting, I had this on the Superb a while back. When it happened car struggled to start then did start during first day, then less so the next as dim light faded away and after a week light a nd starting issue went away. My theory is that a micro-break in a soldered board connection caused an intermittent momentary open circuit triggering a warning light, but then voltage jumps across the gap again eventually melting and fusing the gap together again. But when a gap gets too big no spark jumps the gap and a fault occurs. Pin connection may do a similar thing with moisture present. Sure, have a go re-flowing, won't harm if your ok with it. Hope it solves the issue, let me know the result, thanks :-)
Hiya my car is having the same issue, I start it first tile and starts but after driving for a while I turn it off and then start it back and the same thing happens as your video. I'm from uk Birmingham any ideas where I can take it, to get this fix as I cannot do it myself. Great video !!!
Hi, have you first tried the brake pedal switch? don't overlook this as it can be done very cheaply and often fixes these issues (get the updated version, later models have them). my other video: th-cam.com/video/So8m6LwsD4c/w-d-xo.html shows this with more detail. I've heard reports that hot weather affects this which happened to me one summer in France, luckily it rectified itself and I was able to drive home, so I know how helpless this can make you feel. There are companies that do cover this sort of thing, but I wouldn't know anymore than you who to go to. Some offer a postal service so they might be worth using if you can ring them with the issue first to see if they have come accross the issue before. Sorry I can't be of more help, but hope you can get it fixed and thanks for watching :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey no that's fine thank you for taking your time to reply I will get someone to look at it and hopefully it isnt too much of a problem
hello, does the pin soldering trick work on octavia 2? or is the cluster different? my octavia 2 gives me immobilizer active when outside temperature is too low.
I'm sure the cluster is not quite the same, but re-soldering joints is universal. It does sound as though the cold is effecting some connections somewhere, but it may not be here. Vagcom may help to pinpoint a possible fault location if you can get access to that when it is playing up. Saying that, it won't harm having a look.
hi hat boy, im watching your very handy videos on skoda fabia, im intrested in getting the 1.9 tdi estate version of your car,i also like the x type jag diesel , i think it was based on the mondeo, anyway, if you could please, spare 2 mins to help me ,with some questions that would be great, i like to do my own basic maintanence like your self,
is the skoda as reliable as they say?, as you have needed to fix alot of things,
is the jag a more reliable car?, considering they have the fancy double clutch things that cost alot when they go,
with the choice , what would you choose between them,? same 1,500 budget
whats best on mpg?
these 4 questions will be your good deed for the day sir, thank you !
Thanks. The Fabia is v old with high mileage so most repairs I have done are due to age related wear. I haven’t fixed the Jag much, but this one has approximately half the mileage of the fabia. These cars do different things so it would be down to your personal needs and which you like the best. Buy the newest car with the lowest mileage and dints etc, for your budget is my advice, but only if you like the car. The Jag is a luxury drive that could potentially be expensive to fix as it has lots more lux items to go wrong. Economy: Fabia 60-75mpg, Jag 53mpg, easy driving. VRS is very fast, but TDI is good too. Diesel is becoming less popular with legislators (low emission zones, tax) in favour of electric. Road tax on both these models is approximately the same, if I recall correctly. Hope this helps :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey thankyou
Hi Harvey
My parking sensors are broken. Could you Make a video of How to change parking sensors?
I would if i could, but unfortunately I don't have parking sensors on my MK1 Comfort :-( I plan to upgrade to a MK2 sometime and I'll make sure it comes with those as they are very useful, especially if your eyesight isn't to good :-)
Thanks you very much its finally help me 😊
Świetnie, cieszę się, że mój film Ci pomógł
Thank u I'm going to try that
Great, hope you get sorted and back on the road :-)
Nice one!💯💪
Thanks 🔥
Thank you Harvey, great video again!
Brother all them same problem i mean skoda or there is Another issiu
I have a skoda Felicia 1.6, the car turns over for 2 seconds and then dies, the symptoms point to an Immobilizer fault, the car has 2 keys and neither start the car, any ideas where to start looking/checking. The instrument cluster doesn't have a key symbol like the Fabia. Any information would be appreciated
It could be just the connections behind the instrument cluster or the reader wire. Start by looking for something obvious, loose, detached or missing then delve a little dealer. I wouldn't rule out the PCB for dry solder joints as they do occur on many makes and will be sure to increase in future :-)
Worked for me! Lasted.
Glad I could help :-)
Nice accent :) loved it, hearty greeeeets from PL
Thank you! 😃 my friend, it is the one I was born with, jesteś bardzo miły :-)
Where is the link for the front break pedal switch?
Sorry I thought I put them in, but have now ;-)
@@HatBoyHarvey thank you man you have also saved my Car so many times. 🤘
I'm glad that I have helped, makes doing the videos worth it. Put the new style brake pedal switch on as it is much better :-)
Thanks a lot Harvey!Great job!
You're very welcome, thanks :-)
Hello ,you can tell me how i can set the time in bord? Right now is with a hour before...
Use the knob on the left, under the speedometer. Turning it to the LEFT changes the hours, RIGHT changes the minutes. You will have to scroll it through to find the correct hr :-)
Thanks so much brother👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
No problem 👍
Jou are king!!!
Very useful...thx
You are very welcome :-)
Good top Peter Slovakia
děkuju mnohokrát Thank you very much :-)
Just like that!!!!
Hi
On my skoda octavia 2005 airbag signal is on... how to set it bro..
Hi, assuming you haven't messed with anything recently, if you have, check there. Moving the seats can upset the connections, if you have them. I've known this to happen when the battery is failing, re-charge overnight- then check. VCDS will also help diagnose, if you can gain access to it. Hope this helps :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey i think moving the seats... how to trouble shoot it
Well done and Thank you
You're very welcome :-)
The right screw fell down....
I dont know where it is
I putted new batteries in my key. The little red light is always on but the key still doesn't open the car.
Can anyone help me fix the problem
Maybe the switch on the mini pcb board is stuck on. dismantle the key and free it up. I take it you havn't got another key. Is the imobiliser light on, on the dash?
@@HatBoyHarvey no the immobiliser is not on. Its just the car is not responding to the key buttons
Car battery needs to be above 7.6V. Keyfob may need reprogramming. Module maybe faulty or bad connections anywhere from door catch lock to voltage control unit, CL module, fuses and battery ground. OBD2 fault code reader should pinpoint where to look.
Where is the earth connection for the instrument cluster?
how to fix immobilizer on Octavia 2001
I can only suggest this may also work for the Mk1 Octavia as they look the same as on the Fabia, almost identical, but check the instrument connections may be different. Let me know how you get on :-)
2:31 How to do that if the car won’t start because of the immobilizer?
You can do it in short burts as the engine will run shortly. If it doesn't do that then turning the starter may work at bit (not tried it) otherwise pull it round by hand making sure the steering lock is off :-)
Please can you help me? My Skoda fabia ECU is damaged.
How do you know?
@@HatBoyHarvey A technician was working on it to program a key for the car when it got damaged
Because the unlock button on the key was not longer responding
@@kwabenagyimah3210 that's the problem then, he needs to fix it. Find out exactly what he has done so you can take it somewhere that may help sort it out. Another ECU will need to be programmed also.
@@HatBoyHarvey OK Sir, thank you
i cant pull off the ******* dashboard... its sooo hopeless..
Try not to get too despondent with it or you may break something. Take your time, check you have taken all the screws out and ease each part off one part at a time and work out where it is getting stuck. I've had this now and again at the top and found jiggling it works :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey dashboard is held only by two screws, isnt it? i removed these two screws, but i wasnt able to move with dasboard at all. i tried to hook two thick wires around two screw holes that are at the bottom of the dasboard. i manage to pull the dasboard for about half of centimeter (0,2 inches). After half centimeter of movement the dasboard stoped and plastic around screw holes started to bend. I tried to jiggle it, push it back and forth. but nothing helped. it looks like something in back of dasboard holding it and preventing dasboard to move forward. (maybe some wire isnt long enaugh? its hopeless. im not far away from crying...) i have never solving any car problem before and now i feel like im being forced to disassembly whole dasboard console because i dont know other way to pull off the dasboard... Sorry for my bad english
and thanks for the response, your video is very helpful!
You mean the Instrument cluster/panel/binnacle, sorry, I understand now. The cables at the back maybe preventing it from coming forward. you can reach up behind at the back on one side (door side) I think and push the cables a little.Be careful, but firm, maybe use a torch and good light. I hope you can find what is preventing it coming out without breaking anything :)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you! i will try reach it from the side!
@@HatBoyHarvey what do you mean by "reaching from the side"? did you mean through there (left or right side) i.imgur.com/EZpTMeB.png (because there doesn't seems to be a way to reach any of the cables)
Can i reach the cables removing this plastic piece? i.imgur.com/yV5mN86.png
did not help
Sorry to hear that, have you replaced the brake light switch? maybe see what VagCom comes up with.