I have a MSD ready to run distributor and the Fitech 3002. The wiring diagram is titled"...ready-to-run w/o Timing Control". What does that imply? That the configuration will not use the timing control on the fitch, but will be based on the MSD Distributor PN 8387? If I lock out the distributor will it use the timing control on the Fitech?
I was struggling to hear the man speaking over the music in this video, so I uploaded a voice-isolated version here: th-cam.com/video/A_Fr5NWyPhs/w-d-xo.html If FiTech wants me to remove this I understand, but I thought I would help out some other people since it doesn't look like FiTech has made an equivalent video since they improved their production quality.
Is unlocking your timing beter for a big cam. I'm running the Fitec 8 on a 454 with comp cam big mother thumper. I have cam setting on 4 But I'm using a 2400 stall with B&M quick Shift. At 800 idol I put it gear and almost wants to pull the car. I'm thinking with timing control and IAC can help bring it down a bit
At 12:00, your base timing is at 16.5. How are you setting that? Like you would normally do with a carb, then setting that number in the hand held? For example, if my base is 15, am I setting the handheld to 15? Or, am I just telling the handheld what I want the base to be?
how about discussing the use of a unlocked distributor on the white wire in pa applications because fitech will not let use a locked distibutor in that application
I'm a 45 year retired tech and in my opinion these videos would be much better without the background music. I find it hard to concentrate and absorb the information. Do you make a non-music version of your videos ?
Directions posted online get a little confused when using the CDI and timing control. Both the to GoEFI and GoSpark show the distributor green and purple wires going to the distributor. I assume with CDI, the GoSpark wires are used. The GoSpark directions show connecting its blue wire to the GoEFI blue wire. I assume the GoEFI black wire should be used instead for timing control and the blue wire is not used? Can the GoEFI blue wire be used as a tachometer gauge signal?
Page 4 of the Go Spark CDI Instructions shows the proper hook up of both systems to use the Timing Control feature. The blue wire from the CDI box is the tach output wire that is for a tachometer.
@@FiTechEFImedia thanks! I was using the instructions posted online at Jegs. They appeared to be complete, but they did not have that page 4 print. CDI White to EFI black and EFI green/purple to the distributor.
@@JalopyJockey here is a link to those instructions secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.109/l6h.27f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/GO-SPARK-91000.pdf
I switched from working ready-to-run distributor to 2-wire and engine will not rev now and i'm having rpm noise errors. it was running good before. any idea?
When switching over to timing control the blue wire gets disconnected. If this wire was left hooked up it could be part of the issue. I would recommend contacting the tech department to go over your engine setup. 951-340-2624 opt. 2
for the love of God please don't stop doing these videos any chance you can do one on nitrous control for the power adder systems also maybe how to fix the lean spike issues alot of people are having I love my fitech but it seems like I'm always chasing my tail with it
This is actually a dangerous system. You have people who don’t have a dyno. Don’t have tuning experience. They will blow there engines with to much timing at higher rpm’s. Fitech needs to find a way to include A knock sensor in the software
The timing control feature gives the customer the ability to adjust timing within the system instead of changing weights and springs. This is for a more experienced tuner yes but anyone could advance their timing too much and hurt the motor. Even with a carb. Knock sensor are great however they work by reading frequency. This frequency changes depending on the materials and components within an engine. Being that this system is universal you can not calibrate a knock sensor to work for a stock small block and a fully build 383 stocker with forged internals.
@@FiTechEFImedia Could you not record a "baseline without knock", then have a learning program that you can run in software that progressively runs the car at higher and higher timings until it produces a bit of knock? Then you could record the frequency change and save it to later use in the knock detection feature.
Thanks for the video. I am considering building a sbc with blow through turbo on E85. You answered a few questions I had. A little constructive criticism. Kill the background music. It's annoying. Ditch the lapel mic and try using a headset. Your voice audio is up and down. Thanks again.
Hi, you are watching an older video from when we first started our Tech videos. We have learned a lot and have gotten plenty of feedback. These changes have been made since then.
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Any chance of doing a step by step video on the proper way of phasing the rotor and setting up initial timing?
It’d be nice but doubt it
I have a MSD ready to run distributor and the Fitech 3002. The wiring diagram is titled"...ready-to-run w/o Timing Control". What does that imply? That the configuration will not use the timing control on the fitch, but will be based on the MSD Distributor PN 8387? If I lock out the distributor will it use the timing control on the Fitech?
I was struggling to hear the man speaking over the music in this video, so I uploaded a voice-isolated version here: th-cam.com/video/A_Fr5NWyPhs/w-d-xo.html If FiTech wants me to remove this I understand, but I thought I would help out some other people since it doesn't look like FiTech has made an equivalent video since they improved their production quality.
what's with the music? its absurd.
Is unlocking your timing beter for a big cam. I'm running the Fitec 8 on a 454 with comp cam big mother thumper. I have cam setting on 4
But I'm using a 2400 stall with B&M quick Shift. At 800 idol I put it gear and almost wants to pull the car.
I'm thinking with timing control and IAC can help bring it down a bit
At 12:00, your base timing is at 16.5. How are you setting that? Like you would normally do with a carb, then setting that number in the hand held? For example, if my base is 15, am I setting the handheld to 15?
Or, am I just telling the handheld what I want the base to be?
how about discussing the use of a unlocked distributor on the white wire in pa applications because fitech will not let use a locked distibutor in that application
Do you know timing ignition for FJ40 2F engine? Standart is 7° but how the best timing? Thank's
I'm a 45 year retired tech and in my opinion these videos would be much better without the background music. I find it hard to concentrate and absorb the information. Do you make a non-music version of your videos ?
will this system be able to control timing on an engine that has a counter clockwise rotating distributor like on a Pontiac?
Yes this system will be able to work with both clockwise and counter clockwise rotating distributors.
Directions posted online get a little confused when using the CDI and timing control. Both the to GoEFI and GoSpark show the distributor green and purple wires going to the distributor. I assume with CDI, the GoSpark wires are used. The GoSpark directions show connecting its blue wire to the GoEFI blue wire. I assume the GoEFI black wire should be used instead for timing control and the blue wire is not used? Can the GoEFI blue wire be used as a tachometer gauge signal?
Page 4 of the Go Spark CDI Instructions shows the proper hook up of both systems to use the Timing Control feature. The blue wire from the CDI box is the tach output wire that is for a tachometer.
@@FiTechEFImedia thanks! I was using the instructions posted online at Jegs. They appeared to be complete, but they did not have that page 4 print. CDI White to EFI black and EFI green/purple to the distributor.
@@JalopyJockey here is a link to those instructions secureservercdn.net/198.71.233.109/l6h.27f.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/GO-SPARK-91000.pdf
I switched from working ready-to-run distributor to 2-wire and engine will not rev now and i'm having rpm noise errors. it was running good before. any idea?
When switching over to timing control the blue wire gets disconnected. If this wire was left hooked up it could be part of the issue. I would recommend contacting the tech department to go over your engine setup. 951-340-2624 opt. 2
for the love of God please don't stop doing these videos any chance you can do one on nitrous control for the power adder systems also maybe how to fix the lean spike issues alot of people are having I love my fitech but it seems like I'm always chasing my tail with it
Nitrous Control will be a future video! Lean spikes could tie into the Accel Pump video that is dropping tomorrow!
@@FiTechEFImedia awesome looking forward to it
Gostaria que os vídeos também tivessem legendas em português.
Gostaria que todos os vídeos tenham legenda em portugues tambem
This is actually a dangerous system. You have people who don’t have a dyno. Don’t have tuning experience. They will blow there engines with to much timing at higher rpm’s. Fitech needs to find a way to include A knock sensor in the software
The timing control feature gives the customer the ability to adjust timing within the system instead of changing weights and springs. This is for a more experienced tuner yes but anyone could advance their timing too much and hurt the motor. Even with a carb. Knock sensor are great however they work by reading frequency. This frequency changes depending on the materials and components within an engine. Being that this system is universal you can not calibrate a knock sensor to work for a stock small block and a fully build 383 stocker with forged internals.
@@FiTechEFImedia Could you not record a "baseline without knock", then have a learning program that you can run in software that progressively runs the car at higher and higher timings until it produces a bit of knock? Then you could record the frequency change and save it to later use in the knock detection feature.
Thanks for the video. I am considering building a sbc with blow through turbo on E85. You answered a few questions I had. A little constructive criticism. Kill the background music. It's annoying. Ditch the lapel mic and try using a headset. Your voice audio is up and down. Thanks again.
Hi, you are watching an older video from when we first started our Tech videos. We have learned a lot and have gotten plenty of feedback. These changes have been made since then.