you're lucky, you received a system that works. My Ultra Ram has never been able to program the IAC, therefore stuck in the garage with no ability to control or lock in the idle. Just installed a 3rd motor (brand new), no vacuum leaks, no change in the system. Still unable to dial it in. It has been a $2000+ loss for a year now.
aluminum fuel lines are only good for 20 psi? That's news to me. How about the polytube used on newer cars? Do they hold up to the necessary higher pressures?
I believe my ECU just failed. I have had my car running for years with my FiTech unit. I was out for a drive, did a moderate acceleration through a yellow light. And immediately the engine and car changed to being barely able to run like it was starving for fuel. I had to feather it down the highway until my exit only going 50mph no shifting. Once I turned off the road it died out. We added fuel got it running barely, got it home, it killed the engine when put in park. We have cleaned the fuel filter, checked the resistive wire, and the keyed ignition white wire all have power. We had it running for a bit, turned off the ignition and noticed the fuel pump was still running. We turned off our fuel pump with an external kill switch. Checked later something had drained all the power from the battery until it was dead. Now the ECU will not respond to the hand held at all. We checked the power wires. The sensor and plug wires and all appear to have no damage. With this system, from what I remember it is supposed to control the electric fuel pump to vary power levels based on throttle. I am wondering if some kind of glitch may have occurred, and it cut fuel, and then it, kept power going to the fuel pump when it should have powered it off, and instead just shorted out the ECU internally.
@@tBusket when I got tech emails it was a little generic, for the suggestions. Even after describing in detail the issues and no power. Etc. turned out that test the ECU died, likely due to the design flaw in the earlier generation of the power relays for the fuel pump being unserviceable and bonded to the ECU board inside the throttle body. I purchased a new ECU, and new car side harness. Had to adapt it all to the wiring because now there is a remote mount relay to fix this exact issue. My best hypothesis is the fuel filter was restricted, the ECU detected lean, under acceleration, sent fuel power to the pump, and the kicker, a small two inch hose connecting my I tank electric fuel pump to the sending unit, all built by Aeromotive burst, causing further lean, more ECU power sending until the ECU cooked. Once I replaced ECU, the fuel pump immediately primed but seemed loud, car could start but was cutting out, not drivable. Lead us to putting on a fuel pressure gauge, discovering it was only 10psi, lead to dropping the tank, the filter was one of the first things we checked and cleaned. Found the ruptured hose. Replaced the hose and now the car is fully drivable. As a word of warning the new ECU needs new software installed, and it has to be the new style ECU with remote relay, but for an older handheld.
Can you make a video for spark map on the ultimate ls system? Got mine set at 27 across the board(besides idle) want to tweak my cruising spark to increase my mpg but not sure what direction to go with it
To get the engine to crank, I need to turn the ignition key on and off twice.(spritz) especially when engine is cold. i increased the prime fuel mult and other items but still problem remains. after cranking all of things like IAC, rpm, tps and arf work good, my only problem is in cranking My handheld is 2 dot, 30003 My engine is v6, 262 chevy stock. Can you guid me please? I am confused what happen
Hello I am, fighting a tach signal issue on my new hot rod fresh 383 sbc I have the dual TBI setup w/MSD it primes fuel just fine and the motor with fire initially however no fuel after that due to no rpms showing up on the controller. Spark plugs are resister type and i have full voltage to the fitech system. Any thoughts on what it could be?
If you are using a tach adapter, hook up the tach wire to its output, not the white MSD wire. I was having a similar issue with no signal when cranking. The adapter regulated the signal so now my fitech works fantastic! Hope this helps.
My workshop is trying to set up my FITEC3001 Go EFI14-600 HO kit but no matter what they try with the control unit the 7.2 litre, new Chrysler V8 continues to over fuel?????
Hello, please reach out to our tech support team techmail@fitechefi.com they will have some follow up questions they will need to ask to assist you with this.
Yes you can use this system without an 02 sensor, but it is only recommended for highly advanced users. Please email techmail@fitechefi.com with Attention to Alex and he can help you out with this after asking a few questions.
a single inlet is acceptable on the throttle body EFI systems up to around 800 HP. Past this point we recommend dual inlets to allow for adequate fuel flow.
Installed my 600 HP PA and works great. Cold starts are easy and no hesitation under acceleration, I love it.
you're lucky, you received a system that works. My Ultra Ram has never been able to program the IAC, therefore stuck in the garage with no ability to control or lock in the idle. Just installed a 3rd motor (brand new), no vacuum leaks, no change in the system. Still unable to dial it in. It has been a $2000+ loss for a year now.
Basics. Who would have thought? 😁 1200 PA working flawlessly and efficiently. Love the product
Great information.
Followed the instructions on my FITECH system and it runs fine.
aluminum fuel lines are only good for 20 psi? That's news to me. How about the polytube used on newer cars? Do they hold up to the necessary higher pressures?
I believe my ECU just failed. I have had my car running for years with my FiTech unit. I was out for a drive, did a moderate acceleration through a yellow light. And immediately the engine and car changed to being barely able to run like it was starving for fuel. I had to feather it down the highway until my exit only going 50mph no shifting. Once I turned off the road it died out. We added fuel got it running barely, got it home, it killed the engine when put in park. We have cleaned the fuel filter, checked the resistive wire, and the keyed ignition white wire all have power. We had it running for a bit, turned off the ignition and noticed the fuel pump was still running. We turned off our fuel pump with an external kill switch. Checked later something had drained all the power from the battery until it was dead. Now the ECU will not respond to the hand held at all. We checked the power wires. The sensor and plug wires and all appear to have no damage. With this system, from what I remember it is supposed to control the electric fuel pump to vary power levels based on throttle. I am wondering if some kind of glitch may have occurred, and it cut fuel, and then it, kept power going to the fuel pump when it should have powered it off, and instead just shorted out the ECU internally.
Hello, please send this information to techmail@fitechefi.com and one of our techs will assist you.
and did they help you resolve this?
@@tBusket when I got tech emails it was a little generic, for the suggestions. Even after describing in detail the issues and no power. Etc. turned out that test the ECU died, likely due to the design flaw in the earlier generation of the power relays for the fuel pump being unserviceable and bonded to the ECU board inside the throttle body. I purchased a new ECU, and new car side harness. Had to adapt it all to the wiring because now there is a remote mount relay to fix this exact issue. My best hypothesis is the fuel filter was restricted, the ECU detected lean, under acceleration, sent fuel power to the pump, and the kicker, a small two inch hose connecting my I tank electric fuel pump to the sending unit, all built by Aeromotive burst, causing further lean, more ECU power sending until the ECU cooked. Once I replaced ECU, the fuel pump immediately primed but seemed loud, car could start but was cutting out, not drivable. Lead us to putting on a fuel pressure gauge, discovering it was only 10psi, lead to dropping the tank, the filter was one of the first things we checked and cleaned. Found the ruptured hose. Replaced the hose and now the car is fully drivable. As a word of warning the new ECU needs new software installed, and it has to be the new style ECU with remote relay, but for an older handheld.
Thanks. Good information 👍
Can you make a video for spark map on the ultimate ls system? Got mine set at 27 across the board(besides idle) want to tweak my cruising spark to increase my mpg but not sure what direction to go with it
does FiTech make a kit for a GM 4.4
The SBC 267? If so yes.
@@FiTechEFImedia Sorry I meant the 4.3
To get the engine to crank, I need to turn the ignition key on and off twice.(spritz) especially when engine is cold. i increased the prime fuel mult and other items but still problem remains. after cranking all of things like IAC, rpm, tps and arf work good, my only problem is in cranking
My handheld is 2 dot, 30003
My engine is v6, 262 chevy stock.
Can you guid me please?
I am confused what happen
When is FiTech 2 going to be released? Has this system been update (other than software updates) since 2016?
😂
Hello I am, fighting a tach signal issue on my new hot rod fresh 383 sbc I have the dual TBI setup w/MSD it primes fuel just fine and the motor with fire initially however no fuel after that due to no rpms showing up on the controller. Spark plugs are resister type and i have full voltage to the fitech system. Any thoughts on what it could be?
Hello, i would recommend contacting MSD to troubleshoot a possible issue with your CDI box not sending a signal to the blue Tach wire.
If you are using a tach adapter, hook up the tach wire to its output, not the white MSD wire. I was having a similar issue with no signal when cranking. The adapter regulated the signal so now my fitech works fantastic!
Hope this helps.
My workshop is trying to set up my FITEC3001 Go EFI14-600 HO kit but no matter what they try with the control unit the 7.2 litre, new Chrysler V8 continues to over fuel?????
Hello, please reach out to our tech support team techmail@fitechefi.com they will have some follow up questions they will need to ask to assist you with this.
So confused my instructions say power wire back of alternator, he just said straight to the battery
What instructions are you looking at?
Can I set up system to run without a o2 sensor ( closed loop)?
Yes you can use this system without an 02 sensor, but it is only recommended for highly advanced users. Please email techmail@fitechefi.com with Attention to Alex and he can help you out with this after asking a few questions.
Can i do a break in Engine and cam with the fi tech?
yes you can. Be sure there is a full exhaust behind the oxygen sensor.
My fitech doesn't make that injector sqwert sound anymore and won't start ??
Hey Gary, we have a Tech help line you can give us a call if you are having any issues with your unit. we would be happy to help!
Leaded gas or lead substitute?
Leaded fuels will plug the oxygen sensor. Some octane boosters are also not oxygen sensor safe.
@@FiTechEFImedia Got ya, I have a 62 Impala and use a lead substitute so guess Ill have to buy something else.
Is duel feed good/ bad or doesn’t matter
a single inlet is acceptable on the throttle body EFI systems up to around 800 HP. Past this point we recommend dual inlets to allow for adequate fuel flow.
Aluminum fuel line rating is higher than he stated.
I've been using aluminum line for a rear mount turbo oil supply/return and it's been fine.