I always "flick" my 7018's, when I plan on restarting.....but, it's also worth mentioning, to pay attention where you're flicking the molten ball of slag- 😂
I started welding as a Junior in Highschool, that was in 1o68. I would rather weld with 7018 ANYTIME. THIS IS A GREAT VIDEO FOR ANYONE THAT USES 7018. Thank you for your time.
thanks for the tips tim. i have only tried stick once. i experienced the restart issues you showed. looking forward to learning more about stick. i have a couple small builds that would benefit from the simplicity of just needing power, a welder and some rods. i wish you were not so far, i would love to have you out to be part of our current build. great video as always.
@j.c.smithprojects Thanks! Stick welding is nice in a lot of situations and it's a very reliable process for thicker material. It would be awesome to come out and work with you on a build at some point.
@reloadnorth7722 6013 is a lot easier to start. I find them a little harder to read the puddle with because the slag doesn't hang back behind the puddle as much as 7018, but they are still a great all around rod.
Keep a half piece of brick or a large fist size course rock near where you are welding. Devlope the habit after short welds with the rod in tht holder peck the rod agenst the rock. It will break the flux off and expose the metal of the electrode. Sometimes, the molten flux on the rod is rather hard. Peck and strike the rock to clean the end of the electrode. It's been working for years for me. Just part of the learning curve with these rods / electrodes. You have to do this when tacking things together or building stuff made with short pieces and short welds. The construction and pipeline people dont have this problem because when they strike an arc, they are going to weld until the whole rod is consumed without stopping.
As a hobby/farm welder do I need to worry about a rod oven with 7018? Everything I have welded so far without a oven seems to be holding up. BTW thanks to the tips I'll be using them the next time I am welding.
I made a video about this that's somewhere in the library. Generally speaking, you don't for that type of work. The reason that a rod oven is required for 7018 by most welding codes is to prevent moisture in the flux. The moisture in the flux can cause some amount of hydrogen to be deposited in the weld bead. Other types of rods deposit a whole lot more hydrogen than a room kept 7018, so switching to a different type of electrode doesn't really prevent this. The reason that some procedures require low hydrogen deposits is that they can cause cracking under certain conditions. For hydrogen induced cracking to happen, 3 conditions must all be present at once. 1-presence of hydrogen 2-susceptible microstructure (occurs in high strength steels) and 3-significant stress/restraint (usually material thicknesses over about 1"). Because the welding you'd be doing in hobby/farm work is likely on mild steel that is 1/2" or thinner, the second two conditions wouldn't occur and the risk of hydrogen induced cracking is next to zero. I can't decide what's appropriate for you and if you're working to a code, an oven is required regardless, but hopefully this information helps to decide. Personally, I regularly weld on mild steel under 1/2" thick with 7018 that is stored at room temp in a plastic rod storage tube.
The easiest place is from weldmetalsonline, you can use a discount code 'TIMWELDS' to save 10% there. The price is a bit higher for the precut coupons there, but they are convenient so that's where I buy most of my material for videos. If you're up for cutting your own, most local steel suppliers have a remnants area with cut off pieces that they sell at a discount. Some scrap/recycling yards have this too, so if you call around, you'll probably find some cheap material. You can also just buy a 20' length of flat bar from your local steel supplier and cut it up with a chop saw.
hey thhis question isnt related to this video but i figured i would comment on a newer video ive been learning recently and i switched to a thicker steel and also opened up a new pack of rods i turned my amps up to about 130 cause its very thick (im guessing at least 1/8th inch) the problem is i notice that when i stop welding the slag appears to have only covered certains parts of the weld and theres is massive holes and gaps in the slag and it is very thin were it is there any ideas if this could be too much heat,poor technique,something in the steel,or maybe the new pack of rods could be bad was wondering if you have encourtered something like this?
If I understand correctly, the weld appears to be good under the slag, but the slag doesn't cover the entire surface. This happens with some types of rods. If you email me a photo of what you're talking about at the email address on my about page, I'll take a look and see if I can give some more info.
Technically speaking, it will work on a lot of TIG welders and I've played with it for fun. It doesn't really make sense to do that for any practical application that I can think of, though. The real benefit of stick welding is portability and simplicity and I've never needed that level of real time adjustment.
I just remembered a great true story about the 7018 rod. I was working in the steel mills and this one cocky dude bet me one day he could 'break my weld'. I took the bet. I welded two 3" strips of steel using the 7018. He took a 15-pound sledge hammer and beat those welded pieces to death. He was chasing the welded pieces all over the floor as it hopped around as he continued to beat it to death. After 15-mintes, he gave up. He literally 'tore' the steel bars, but he was never able to break the weld.
Do: subscribe to Tim's welding course series. Don't: try to figure it out from a book. Follow the lessons and you'll be good. Do: read your equipment manuals and be safe. Don't: practice when you're tired or in a hurry.
7018 was my go-to rod back in the day. The 7018 was notoriously difficult to strike an arc, but for me, it was just a matter of getting used to it.
Thank you for creating all those videos Tim ! I've learned a lot from them.
Keep doing such a great job 👏
Thank you so much!
Great tip's, as usual, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
I always "flick" my 7018's, when I plan on restarting.....but, it's also worth mentioning, to pay attention where you're flicking the molten ball of slag- 😂
I started welding as a Junior in Highschool, that was in 1o68. I would rather weld with 7018 ANYTIME.
THIS IS A GREAT VIDEO FOR ANYONE THAT USES 7018.
Thank you for your time.
Thank you so much I was having all kinds of trouble just started doing this a day ago
Useful tips, thank you.
thanks for the tips tim. i have only tried stick once. i experienced the restart issues you showed. looking forward to learning more about stick. i have a couple small builds that would benefit from the simplicity of just needing power, a welder and some rods. i wish you were not so far, i would love to have you out to be part of our current build. great video as always.
6013 rods are much easier to start, and restart. If you don't need the strength of 7018, use 6013.
@j.c.smithprojects Thanks! Stick welding is nice in a lot of situations and it's a very reliable process for thicker material. It would be awesome to come out and work with you on a build at some point.
@reloadnorth7722 6013 is a lot easier to start. I find them a little harder to read the puddle with because the slag doesn't hang back behind the puddle as much as 7018, but they are still a great all around rod.
Keep a half piece of brick or a large fist size course rock near where you are welding. Devlope the habit after short welds with the rod in tht holder peck the rod agenst the rock. It will break the flux off and expose the metal of the electrode. Sometimes, the molten flux on the rod is rather hard. Peck and strike the rock to clean the end of the electrode. It's been working for years for me. Just part of the learning curve with these rods / electrodes. You have to do this when tacking things together or building stuff made with short pieces and short welds. The construction and pipeline people dont have this problem because when they strike an arc, they are going to weld until the whole rod is consumed without stopping.
Great tips! Thanks!
always great stuff Tim, cheers from Florida, Paul
Thanks Paul! Hope all is well!
@@TimWelds a bit rainy and windy here in Central Florida.......love all you do.....Paul
Thanks!
two days ago, all same i tell my new colleague 😂. Good video
I love 7018 but struggle with the restarts….. the info you provided should help✅
Thanks Daniel!
My go to is an old mill file 1 short stroke and she’s brand new
As a hobby/farm welder do I need to worry about a rod oven with 7018? Everything I have welded so far without a oven seems to be holding up. BTW thanks to the tips I'll be using them the next time I am welding.
I made a video about this that's somewhere in the library. Generally speaking, you don't for that type of work. The reason that a rod oven is required for 7018 by most welding codes is to prevent moisture in the flux. The moisture in the flux can cause some amount of hydrogen to be deposited in the weld bead. Other types of rods deposit a whole lot more hydrogen than a room kept 7018, so switching to a different type of electrode doesn't really prevent this. The reason that some procedures require low hydrogen deposits is that they can cause cracking under certain conditions. For hydrogen induced cracking to happen, 3 conditions must all be present at once. 1-presence of hydrogen 2-susceptible microstructure (occurs in high strength steels) and 3-significant stress/restraint (usually material thicknesses over about 1"). Because the welding you'd be doing in hobby/farm work is likely on mild steel that is 1/2" or thinner, the second two conditions wouldn't occur and the risk of hydrogen induced cracking is next to zero. I can't decide what's appropriate for you and if you're working to a code, an oven is required regardless, but hopefully this information helps to decide. Personally, I regularly weld on mild steel under 1/2" thick with 7018 that is stored at room temp in a plastic rod storage tube.
@@TimWeldsgreat explanation! Long time question I have had and nobody could answer definitely. Thanks!
Wow you’ve lost some weight dude!! Good job
Thanks! I've been on a pretty good run health wise lately.
Where should I get me metal if I just started out to practice?
The easiest place is from weldmetalsonline, you can use a discount code 'TIMWELDS' to save 10% there. The price is a bit higher for the precut coupons there, but they are convenient so that's where I buy most of my material for videos. If you're up for cutting your own, most local steel suppliers have a remnants area with cut off pieces that they sell at a discount. Some scrap/recycling yards have this too, so if you call around, you'll probably find some cheap material. You can also just buy a 20' length of flat bar from your local steel supplier and cut it up with a chop saw.
hey thhis question isnt related to this video but i figured i would comment on a newer video ive been learning recently and i switched to a thicker steel and also opened up a new pack of rods i turned my amps up to about 130 cause its very thick (im guessing at least 1/8th inch) the problem is i notice that when i stop welding the slag appears to have only covered certains parts of the weld and theres is massive holes and gaps in the slag and it is very thin were it is there any ideas if this could be too much heat,poor technique,something in the steel,or maybe the new pack of rods could be bad was wondering if you have encourtered something like this?
If I understand correctly, the weld appears to be good under the slag, but the slag doesn't cover the entire surface. This happens with some types of rods. If you email me a photo of what you're talking about at the email address on my about page, I'll take a look and see if I can give some more info.
@@TimWelds yeah that’s exactly what’s happening,what is you email address or where can I find it to send a picture?
I have a question, can i use a pedal, like one from a tig welder, to stick weld?
No sir. The foot pedal is mostly unique to TIG
Technically speaking, it will work on a lot of TIG welders and I've played with it for fun. It doesn't really make sense to do that for any practical application that I can think of, though. The real benefit of stick welding is portability and simplicity and I've never needed that level of real time adjustment.
I just remembered a great true story about the 7018 rod. I was working in the steel mills and this one cocky dude bet me one day he could 'break my weld'. I took the bet. I welded two 3" strips of steel using the 7018. He took a 15-pound sledge hammer and beat those welded pieces to death. He was chasing the welded pieces all over the floor as it hopped around as he continued to beat it to death. After 15-mintes, he gave up. He literally 'tore' the steel bars, but he was never able to break the weld.
These days 718 AC are more popular particularly with low output power sources. These rods are designed with touch-restrike.
Cheers from sunny Florida
can someone give me important things to know and things to never do as a beginner welder? much appreciated.
Do: subscribe to Tim's welding course series.
Don't: try to figure it out from a book. Follow the lessons and you'll be good.
Do: read your equipment manuals and be safe.
Don't: practice when you're tired or in a hurry.
@@g.tucker8682 thx dude
Thanks a ton for the recommendation! Please feel free to reach out by email with any specific questions from the courses.
The most annoying of these damn 7018 is after a fight to strike the arc the mtf stick on the plate. 🤬