I’ve been teaching myself (I’m just out of high school) and I am good and setting the amps and stuff but I normally just threw in random rods and made it stick but after this video I have learned a lot about the different rods thanks
I'd love to take your course. But, I'm on a fixed income. I have a grant to take classes at the local community college. I enjoy your videoes BTW. Big help and I appreciate you doing this.
Happy for you , glad your school still has that stuff most of California and 100% of la has taken all the vocational studies out so hope the best for you , I’m also doing a welding course
Im taking a balance between mechanics and welding, but i think im gonna lean more into the welding. Anyway i love to learn this stuff cause it will most definitely come un handy.
Hey Tim!! Never watched any of your vids before, but I've ALWAYS wanted to learn how to weld. Over here, (Thailand) welding of thin-wall square tubing is a HUGE business, as they make shop awnings, foodcooking stands attached to motorcycles like sidecars, shop-stalls, window-awning supports, shelves, etc. etc. They are EXTREMELY UNconcerned with safety techniques, and often do slap-dash jobs, welding right on the street or sidewalk with no safety isolation from passersby. I've wanted to learn to weld for a LONG (embarrassingly long) time, but after looking around I knew there was no one here that I could trust to teach me. So I wanted to find some instructional videos to learn welding, since I'm ready to retire, and will finally have the time. I just found your videos yesterday, and I've spent yesterday afternoon and this morning downloading about a dozen of your vids. I want to approach this systematically and study the techniques and materials even before I buy any equipment, so when I go shopping I'll know what I'm looking for. As a long-time teacher, I know good instructors when I see one, and your style is (IMHO) very effective. Your delivery is casual, but clear and informative, and very easy to listen to. It must be difficult to film something as 'bright' as a welding arc/seam/etc. but your vids are very interesting to watch and well-recorded. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to produce and share these excellent videos. I'll be in touch sometime in future to give a progress report. 👍
A year goes by and can't help noticing that "Tim" hasn't even had the basic courtesy to reply to this comment. Even though he only posted and pinned one of his own comments just 3 weeks ago. Maybe he's just too "busy" to reply to supportive comments from viewers.
Being mostly a mig welder at my past and current job your video helped me alot on what kind of stick I need to run for a repair on a fence. Thank sir you awsome.
Im just starting into, starting into welding. Every interesting video i find turns out they are all made by you! If you give this much good info for free your paid courses must be worth a million bucks. Thank you for these!
I am just getting into welding with a cheap inverter welder prior to finding your channel. These really basic videos have been super helpful. Most recently this and your amperage video showing the varied results from too low and too high are getting me dialed in. I've played with a mig welder couple of times but I really do love the simplicity of stick welding. Never stop the stick content please! I would watch a growing stick based playlist from you on repeat non-stop.
THANK YOU, FOR A REALLY NICE WELDING VIDEO. I am new to your channel. It just popped , & I watched it. I'm VERY satisfied with your content. I welded as PART of my various carreers, (machinist/Tool & Die Maker/Tool & Jig designer), and light fabrications. The favorite was the 6012 for tacking up and 7018 for welding. Later years, MIG .035 fluxcore. My favorite pattern is the overlapping circles, for most beads and the zig-zag pattern for large gap projects. I was raised in a machine shop, welding with oxy/action & wire cost-hanger. I welded alot of my life. I've slowed way down due to my shake arm/wrist, but it goes with age. I'm in my 70's now, but I still enjoy MIG. Thank you, young feller. Keep on truckin'. I like your content. You can run a pretty nice bead. Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸 I SUBBED..
Thank you, Tim. I am just a beginner and wanted to learn stick welding for some small project here at home. I say beginner but the truth is many years ago I worked in a precast seawall yard and welded the forms. Most of what I was taught I have forgotten until viewing your videos.
I love 7018AC when I can get it. It runs great on DC also but it's also an AC rod. It had a conductive material in the flux that makes restrike very easy. A little more expensive but well worth it.
Gday Tim just wanted to let you know i love watching your videos i find them very informative and interesting and you explain things really well anyway have a good one regards Merv from Humpty Doo NT Australia🍺🍺
I've been using 'buzz box' welders on and off for over 40 years and I learned more in this short video than ever before. I got reasonably good when I was welding 'every day' but a 15~20 year gap means I'm starting over from scratch. (plus I only weld every few months so not a lot of practice) I used Oxy/DA a lot more often then stick on very thin material but did manage 1/16" rods on sheet metal at one time (40+ years ago) The biggest issue I have now is the stick seems to burn away too fast, tried low amps, 'recommended' amp, higher amps. Every 'real time' video I've seen seems to show rods burning 'slower'? (1/8" 6013 or 7018) I tried 'cooking' rods at 350f in an old toaster oven to make sure they were completely dry (I forget if it was 90 mins or 2 hours) and using when still 'warm' Are they just 'old' and should be tossed?
You are the best! You're a real professional at teaching and welding! Thank you so much for your easy-to-Understand begimner videos that every beginner needs! Thank you thank you again. More blessings to come!
Here in the UK 6013 is the most common used rod for everything so haveing learned with 6013 to weld in all positions then used 7018 everything is so much easier with the 7018
Great video! I will concentrate on getting good with 6013 since it is cheap and plenty good for any non-structural welding jobs. Then I will experiment with 6010 and 7018 for more specialized applications.
Enjoyed your video. Thank you very much! I am a beginner welder. I started on this journey because I have and old pickup truck that is falling apart due to rust. And, I thought this would be a good project to restore the truck and learn how to weld at the same time. I could use some guidance to minimize the trial and error system. I would appreciate any suggestions from you and any and all of your subscribers. Thanks for taking the time to upload this video. Cheers and happy Holidays to ALL
You will eventually learn that it does not matter much on many things what settings are used. For example, I can run a 6010 root between 80-90 amps, but anything more I cannot. Another person in my welding class could not run a root lower than 90. It really depends on your own individual style.
You always want to run the most possible amps that doesn't damage the material you're welding. This means you have to test your welder before you start welding, on a scrap piece of metal that matches the material you are welding. Do a test bead, make sure the weld bead flows out nicely and looks wet around the edges of the weld bead. If the weld bead is balled up on top of the metal and not melted down into the material, you need to run more amps. If the weld bead has soaked way down into the metal, and the edges are heavily melted, and you're melting into the material, then you need less amps. You want the bead to penetrate and wet the surrounding substrate, but not damage it.
Wow Tim, that is one great video... I've been watching lots of videos while is welding school and you really, Really did a nice job with this. Your explanation is awesome for sure. I was thinking, "Who is this guy" ? he"s super good with the details, then you said you are a welding instructor and it all made perfect sense. I'm going to email my super awesome instructor and invite him to watch this video. Our whip and pause is a little different though. All your beads looked great. This video is very well edited and the volume is proper, two fire extinguishers in the background too. I'll be watching a lot more of your videos for sure. I'm 50 now and junk videos just don't cut it. Thank you, Jim Tree
Hey Tim what i will love to see is for the different rods the amps setting for each individual rod , I think the 7018 rods 90amps setting also for the others the 6013 , 6011 , and 6010 i really appreciate the videos I also subscribed i have to wanna learn more💯
I'm a beginner. I have a old Hobart Stickmate LX AC machine. I building a rock crawler in my garage. I'm wondering what is the best electrode to use to weld the brackets to the frame and brackets to the axle for maximum strength? The brackets are 1/4 inch wall
Great video. Gave me some good info I was looking for. Now I gotta look for maintaining the elctrodes. Have 6010, not sure if I gotta bake them. doesnt seem to be running right
It depends on what you’re welding and how critical it is. As long as it’s on mild steel under 1/2” thick, hydrogen embrittlement is extremely unlikely even with some moisture in the flux. On top of that, old 7018 will still deposit less hydrogen than a 6010 or 6013, so using those rods doesn’t really solve that problem. For non-critical applications, old rods can work just fine.
Man I finally reached my light bulb moment. You really taught me something new. 1. I never knew that was called flux coating. 2. I always thought that was the think that caused the rod to melt and weld. Never knew a rod without it could actually weld.
As an occasional DIY welder, I'd like to use 7018, but my rods can sometimes be weeks or even months old before I use them and I don't have a rod oven. Do I need to be concerned about this when most of my welding is on 3mm plate or less, and never over 6mm? Ultimate strength isn't usually a consideration either - it just needs to be a consistent reliable weld without inclusions etc. TIA...
To get stronger fillet welds what would be the best rods? 6010/1 under a 7018 or 7016 under a 7018. I've been finding if I am to grind my 7018 filler welds back to square then there is absolutely no strength left and can be broken by a little hammer. This could just be me but I've been trying everything to get more penetration with these 7018 rods. I'm just buying some 4mm rods instead of 3.2 for this 8mm plate to see if that's going to help me
Hey! Just found your channel and really like it, have had much better luck with my 7018 welding than any rutile sticks, could be my inverter (Migatronic 160E) or just me😀. Anyway I have a tip for you, at 07:25 you refer to another video (that I will watch) and you can actually put a card into your video in the TH-cam studio function to have it pop up as a clickable link while you are talking. Anyway thanks for a great channel!
Great video and channel Tim, thank you! Your discussion on 7018 was particularly interesting. I think I am hearing that the home shop welder or person making non-critical welds shouldn’t necessarily avoid 7018 for general non-critical mild steel fabrication just because they can’t meet the rigorous oven storage requirements?
Great question. Without knowing the details of a particular weld, I can't necessarily say whether it is needed or not. I can explain why they are stored in an oven. If moisture is absorbed into the flux of a welding electrode, it can become a source of hydrogen for the welded metal. When hydrogen is diffused into steel, it can cause cracking in the solid material. In order for this cracking to occur, three conditions must all exist: 1. presence of hydrogen 2. a susceptible microstructure (hard steel) 3. stress or restraint on the weld. In order to prevent this condition, industrial welding practice takes two preventative measures, low hydrogen practice and preheat of the material. The requirements for both of these depend on the amount of alloying elements in the material and the material thickness (which lead to conditions 2 and 3). Basically, thicker material and steel with more stuff in it is more prone to cracking. To draw a line in the sand, the structural steel code, AWS D1.1, allows rods other than low hydrogen on A36 mild steel under 3/4" thick without preheat. That same code also requires all low hydrogen electrodes to be oven stored. I know it's a firehose, but hopefully it helps provide some understanding.
@@TimWelds Thanks for the thorough response Tim, that’s very enlightening! So it sounds to me like 7018’s flux is not necessarily more hygroscopic than any other rod, but it’s common use is with low-hydrogen procedures, so you need the oven to ensure you’re not introducing hydrogen from the flux in those cases. That makes me wonder though, why don’t people stick other rods, say 6010, in an oven and use them with a low hydrogen procedure?
@@Mike-ud5of That's a great question. 6010 is a cellulosic electrode and contains hydrogen in the composition of the flux. In fact, it's partially made of wood dust and also has a high affinity for moisture. During welding with 6010, hydrogen gas needs to be released for it to have the arc characteristics that it does. While definitely not a good practice, some old school guys will actually dip 6010's in water to make them more punchy. Rutile rods (like 6013) do not have the same level of hydrogen, but still perform best with some amount of moisture in the flux. That leaves 'basic' rods like 7018 to be the option for low hydrogen work. The moisture in the flux is only one source of hydrogen, in can come from the flux itself or from surface oils (HYDROcarbons). If you find this as fascinating as I do, you can head way down the rabbit hole by dunking some fresh, hot welds in mineral oil to see the different amounts of hydrogen bubbling out (www.hobartbrothers.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,print,0&cntnt01articleid=157&cntnt01showtemplate=false&cntnt01returnid=523). Most likely, however, you have better things to do and the photographs in this article will suffice. Thanks for the fun discussion...I definitely nerd out on this stuff.
@@TimWelds Thanks again Tim, great info and insight, I am learning a ton here. I’ll check out the article. I think your experience in both the welding trade and in engineering gives you a pretty unique and valuable point of view to share-I appreciate it and enjoy your channel!
I recently started stick welding with the little Deko machine using 3/32" 6013 and 6010 rods. My biggest problem right now is fillet(?) welds where I try to join two pieces at a 90-degree angle. My bead always ends up sticking to one or the other piece, usually the horizontal one, but rarely to both, and I seem to get no penetration. I'd love it if you'd go over some welding techniques for different, common weld types, material thickness, rod size, and amperage. I think you explain things really well and look forward to more of your videos.
You are correct, it is called a fillet weld. I would get the 6013 down before worrying about 6010. I haven't run 6010 on the Deko, but some of these small inverters will work better with 6011. Without watching you weld, it's hard to say what's not going right. However, there are only 3 things that need to go right, so I'll list those. Focus on the first one until you get it down, then move on to the next. First, hold a tight arc; it should only be around 1/8" long. If the arc goes out at that length, you may need to add a few amps. Second, pay attention to your angle. On a tee-joint fillet, you need to point the rod 45 degrees into the joint, and drag by about 10 degrees. Finally, pay attention to your movement. watch the puddle grow to the size of the weld you want and make sure it's on both plates, then move at a pace that keeps the puddle at the same width. It takes a lot of practice. If your weld isn't coming out right, 9 times out of 10 one or two of those things will solve the problem. I have a full stick welding tutorial on my channel that might help with technique, and I'm working on a video about amperage that will come out in a few weeks. Weld on!
Brilliant video thanks. I have tried a 2.5mm 7018 today and got nowhere, couldn't even strike an arc and kept sticking whatever I tried, swapped out to 2.5mm 6013 and ran a decent (albeit wonky) bead at around 80A. Rods were sealed and the welder is a basic draper arc welder with a manual dial. Going through the full range of amperage didn't seem to help but it was set I'd say in excess of 160A! I know the guy who owns it never swaps rods and 2.5mm 7018 is all he has. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? I didn't fully unwind the leads so don't know 100% what polarity it's on.
Retired and new to welding with small farm. Purchasing a Hobart handler 200 for flux-core and stick. Welding metal on the Container rooftop for solar panels and Welding steel on container top to make an awning from one 40 foot container to the other. Do you think that machine is a good fit for my self? Rylie Rylie
Sounds like a great project! There are a ton of machines that would work well for that, and the Hobart is a good choice. I actually learned to weld with a Hobart, though it was a lot older.
Your opinion of the best all postion all applications I think is off and I think alot out there will agree witch is 7018 it good for root and even better for capping and its the easiest for beginners to do a good looking weld. I think it's the best rod for doing vertical and I have even used it to weld a 3/4" thick lug to the underside of a beam so I could attach a temporary 2ton chain fall and weld prep is every thing. If you don't do good weld prep no rod will save you.
My transformers connected in series makes very consistent welds and makes 6013 rods penetrate rust like 6010. Yes! 100% AC, but with good voltage, polarities and labels over electrodes don't matter.
You mentioned that the 7018 rod should be used within 8 hours of breaking the seal on the package. Why is this? I assume the rod absorbs water from the atmosphere which would then split into hydrogen and oxygen when heated to arc temperatures. Both of these gasses are bad for the weld. Can one renew 7018 rods that have been in tubes that are not air tight? Can I renew my 7018 rods by heating them in my oven? If so what temperature and how long?
One manufacture says they can reheated in an electric on clean mode to reach over 550. One time. But you can use them like a regular rod if left out and the 7018 alloy is very strong.
Ive got a weld test for a new job tomorrow. I actually used to weld ALOT in High School but that was in 2005-2007 ive got to cut a 2 inch pipe in half and then weld 2 4x4 piece of 3/4inch metal pieces on one4x4 3/4 inch piece that’s laying down. Like a house with 2 walls across from each other then i gotta cut a 2 inch hole on top of another 4x4 piece to slide down the 2 inch pipe then weld the pipe at the bottom making those 2 4x4 walls a pain to fully weld the pipe to the bottom. Any suggestions? Its gotta pass a 70 psi test
I am going to use a old miller 2e to weld a pipe fence. The pipe is sch 10 11 gauge carbon steel Can someone help with rod type and size course current, amperage?
Great video. It would have been helpful to spend 1 minute explaining how to alleviate the rod sticking to the material and not getting a good puddle going. One comment was about swapping the leads that are plugged into the box. Is that a way to stop sticking?
That will depend on the size rod you are running, most rod boxes give you an amp range start in the lower middle of the range then bump up or down to find what your machine likes best.
I don't understand the 7018...if I buy a pack of electrodes, as a hobbyist, maybe I use a few, then throw out the rest? I'm not going to use an entire pack within 8hrs after opening it and breaking whatever seal it had. I know there are rod ovens but again, as a hobbyist, that's not an option and I just read that only works one time (not sure that's correct...sounds odd). Do any hobbyist welders use 7018, with the incumbent disposal of most of the remaining rods?
@@tsl7881 so, (hobbyist) people buy 7018 rods and use that pack for perhaps months or years but basically its main claim to fame (low hydrogen) is gone after the first day? Or is the low hydrogen aspect simply not that important compared to other aspects of the 7018 that linger on?
You can learn to weld. I'll show you exactly what to do in my affordable online welding courses at courses.timwelds.com.
I’ve been teaching myself (I’m just out of high school) and I am good and setting the amps and stuff but I normally just threw in random rods and made it stick but after this video I have learned a lot about the different rods thanks
I’m not sure if ur familiar with tig welding but can u make a video similar to thing for tig welding
I'd love to take your course. But, I'm on a fixed income. I have a grant to take classes at the local community college. I enjoy your videoes BTW. Big help and I appreciate you doing this.
I love these videos because I’m taking a welding path of study in high school and I pickup everything my teacher misses in class
Happy for you , glad your school still has that stuff most of California and 100% of la has taken all the vocational studies out so hope the best for you , I’m also doing a welding course
Im taking a balance between mechanics and welding, but i think im gonna lean more into the welding. Anyway i love to learn this stuff cause it will most definitely come un handy.
Hey Tim!! Never watched any of your vids before, but I've ALWAYS wanted to learn how to weld. Over here, (Thailand) welding of thin-wall square tubing is a HUGE business, as they make shop awnings, foodcooking stands attached to motorcycles like sidecars, shop-stalls, window-awning supports, shelves, etc. etc. They are EXTREMELY UNconcerned with safety techniques, and often do slap-dash jobs, welding right on the street or sidewalk with no safety isolation from passersby. I've wanted to learn to weld for a LONG (embarrassingly long) time, but after looking around I knew there was no one here that I could trust to teach me. So I wanted to find some instructional videos to learn welding, since I'm ready to retire, and will finally have the time. I just found your videos yesterday, and I've spent yesterday afternoon and this morning downloading about a dozen of your vids. I want to approach this systematically and study the techniques and materials even before I buy any equipment, so when I go shopping I'll know what I'm looking for.
As a long-time teacher, I know good instructors when I see one, and your style is (IMHO) very effective. Your delivery is casual, but clear and informative, and very easy to listen to.
It must be difficult to film something as 'bright' as a welding arc/seam/etc. but your vids are very interesting to watch and well-recorded. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to produce and share these excellent videos. I'll be in touch sometime in future to give a progress report. 👍
So, how are you progressing now, 1 yr. later?
A year goes by and can't help noticing that "Tim" hasn't even had the basic courtesy to reply to this comment. Even though he only posted and pinned one of his own comments just 3 weeks ago. Maybe he's just too "busy" to reply to supportive comments from viewers.
@@montinaladine3264 it can often be that replying to a note/email/comment with multiple talking points can simply be overwhelming
Yo anything happen?
Being mostly a mig welder at my past and current job your video helped me alot on what kind of stick I need to run for a repair on a fence. Thank sir you awsome.
Im just starting into, starting into welding. Every interesting video i find turns out they are all made by you! If you give this much good info for free your paid courses must be worth a million bucks. Thank you for these!
I am just getting into welding with a cheap inverter welder prior to finding your channel. These really basic videos have been super helpful. Most recently this and your amperage video showing the varied results from too low and too high are getting me dialed in. I've played with a mig welder couple of times but I really do love the simplicity of stick welding. Never stop the stick content please! I would watch a growing stick based playlist from you on repeat non-stop.
Thanks! I love running stick as well!
You have grown into my favorite welding channel!!
THANK YOU, FOR A REALLY NICE WELDING VIDEO.
I am new to your channel. It just popped , & I watched it. I'm VERY satisfied with your content. I welded as PART of my various carreers, (machinist/Tool & Die Maker/Tool & Jig designer), and light fabrications. The favorite was the 6012 for tacking up and 7018 for welding. Later years, MIG .035 fluxcore. My favorite pattern is the overlapping circles, for most beads and the zig-zag pattern for large gap projects. I was raised in a machine shop, welding with oxy/action & wire cost-hanger. I welded alot of my life. I've slowed way down due to my shake arm/wrist, but it goes with age. I'm in my 70's now, but I still enjoy MIG.
Thank you, young feller. Keep on truckin'. I like your content. You can run a pretty nice bead.
Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
I SUBBED..
Crushing it with these tutorials. I've been binge watching your videos like a box set. More TIG content, please!
I needed this info as a beginner welder
You have the best beginner videos thanks so much!!!!!
Currently in welding training running 6010 to start. Your videos are companions to my training. I love your teaching style.
I would recommend learning on 6013 or 7018, much more forgiving and helps you get the basics down.
Thank you, Tim. I am just a beginner and wanted to learn stick welding for some small project here at home. I say beginner but the truth is many years ago I worked in a precast seawall yard and welded the forms. Most of what I was taught I have forgotten until viewing your videos.
TY Timwelds😁 I have actually always wondered about these things 👨🏭
I love 7018AC when I can get it. It runs great on DC also but it's also an AC rod. It had a conductive material in the flux that makes restrike very easy. A little more expensive but well worth it.
A 7018 you can use for tacks. Weird huh?
Gday Tim just wanted to let you know i love watching your videos i find them very informative and interesting and you explain things really well anyway have a good one regards Merv from Humpty Doo NT Australia🍺🍺
I've been using 'buzz box' welders on and off for over 40 years and I learned more in this short video than ever before.
I got reasonably good when I was welding 'every day' but a 15~20 year gap means I'm starting over from scratch.
(plus I only weld every few months so not a lot of practice)
I used Oxy/DA a lot more often then stick on very thin material but did manage 1/16" rods on sheet metal at one time (40+ years ago)
The biggest issue I have now is the stick seems to burn away too fast, tried low amps, 'recommended' amp, higher amps.
Every 'real time' video I've seen seems to show rods burning 'slower'? (1/8" 6013 or 7018)
I tried 'cooking' rods at 350f in an old toaster oven to make sure they were completely dry (I forget if it was 90 mins or 2 hours) and using when still 'warm'
Are they just 'old' and should be tossed?
im in school rn and just watched for a refresh before a test perfect info thanks so much
I was so impressed, I purchased your course. Thank you
Nicely explained! Not always the case in videos on same subject. Many of them are more confusing than explanatory
Starting off you hammered off the flux. When I was first learning, my instructor had us weld with wire hangers ... welding is a fun challenge
Your videos are actually helpful and… thanks bud
You are the best! You're a real professional at teaching and welding! Thank you so much for your easy-to-Understand begimner videos that every beginner needs! Thank you thank you again. More blessings to come!
Didn't know that 6010/11 need to run different than 7018. Can't wait to practice more.
Here in the UK 6013 is the most common used rod for everything so haveing learned with 6013 to weld in all positions then used 7018 everything is so much easier with the 7018
Thanks, Tim. Just started welding and am slowly improving. Your vids are very helpful.
Great video! I will concentrate on getting good with 6013 since it is cheap and plenty good for any non-structural welding jobs. Then I will experiment with 6010 and 7018 for more specialized applications.
Enjoyed your video. Thank you very much! I am a beginner welder. I started on this journey because I have and old pickup truck that is falling apart due to rust. And, I thought this would be a good project to restore the truck and learn how to weld at the same time. I could use some guidance to minimize the trial and error system. I would appreciate any suggestions from you and any and all of your subscribers. Thanks for taking the time to upload this video. Cheers and happy Holidays to ALL
Tim, would you mind showing us the settings on your machine when demonstrating/explaining things? Love the videos . . . just got my machine this week!
You will eventually learn that it does not matter much on many things what settings are used. For example, I can run a 6010 root between 80-90 amps, but anything more I cannot. Another person in my welding class could not run a root lower than 90. It really depends on your own individual style.
You always want to run the most possible amps that doesn't damage the material you're welding. This means you have to test your welder before you start welding, on a scrap piece of metal that matches the material you are welding. Do a test bead, make sure the weld bead flows out nicely and looks wet around the edges of the weld bead. If the weld bead is balled up on top of the metal and not melted down into the material, you need to run more amps. If the weld bead has soaked way down into the metal, and the edges are heavily melted, and you're melting into the material, then you need less amps. You want the bead to penetrate and wet the surrounding substrate, but not damage it.
@@Ritalie Thank you very much for the details . . . very much appreciated!
I run just about everything at 89 or 115
@@dobean6858 Thank you.
Very informative. Very generous sharing your craft pointers. Ty
Thanks for the great explanation.
I wish if you showed the cuerrent for each weld.
Wow Tim, that is one great video... I've been watching lots of videos while is welding school and you really, Really did a nice job with this. Your explanation is awesome for sure. I was thinking, "Who is this guy" ? he"s super good with the details, then you said you are a welding instructor and it all made perfect sense. I'm going to email my super awesome instructor and invite him to watch this video. Our whip and pause is a little different though. All your beads looked great. This video is very well edited and the volume is proper, two fire extinguishers in the background too.
I'll be watching a lot more of your videos for sure. I'm 50 now and junk videos just don't cut it. Thank you, Jim Tree
Thanks Jim! I really love making the videos and I learn something new every time.
Great test and Thanks for showing inside the welds!
Hey Tim what i will love to see is for the different rods the amps setting for each individual rod , I think the 7018 rods 90amps setting also for the others the 6013 , 6011 , and 6010 i really appreciate the videos I also subscribed i have to wanna learn more💯
Thank you. Very clear explanation and helpful.
Thank you, the best explanation I've found👍
I'm a beginner. I have a old Hobart Stickmate LX AC machine. I building a rock crawler in my garage. I'm wondering what is the best electrode to use to weld the brackets to the frame and brackets to the axle for maximum strength? The brackets are 1/4 inch wall
New Welder here thank you for your info ❤❤❤❤💥
You are very welcome!
This video really helped simplify things. Thanks man, great information!
Tim very nice information what is the best rod for vertical
Great video and you did very well with explaining how rods work. I learned a few things, thanks alot. :)
Thank you Tim, as always, love your videos 👍
Great video. Gave me some good info I was looking for.
Now I gotta look for maintaining the elctrodes. Have 6010, not sure if I gotta bake them. doesnt seem to be running right
9:37 .... What if you do not use them with the time frame given? .... Like if you have an opened package that are weeks old?
It depends on what you’re welding and how critical it is. As long as it’s on mild steel under 1/2” thick, hydrogen embrittlement is extremely unlikely even with some moisture in the flux. On top of that, old 7018 will still deposit less hydrogen than a 6010 or 6013, so using those rods doesn’t really solve that problem. For non-critical applications, old rods can work just fine.
@@TimWelds Awesome, Thank you sir!!
Spend the money and get yourself a rod dryer.
Great video. Very informative.
Can you give me a run down on 7014? I use them for almost everything but it seems no one talks about them. Should I be using something else?
Great video, very informative and clearly explained for beginners like myself. Keep it up.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow super good vid, precise and concise!! Thanks a lot for sharing 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
Man I finally reached my light bulb moment. You really taught me something new. 1. I never knew that was called flux coating. 2. I always thought that was the think that caused the rod to melt and weld. Never knew a rod without it could actually weld.
Liked & subscribed! Thanks for your detailed explanation. :)
Super helpful thanks for the video!!🔥
Glad you liked it!
Mr. Tim, what is the best amperage for 6013, 6011 AC welder?
. .your channel is a big help for beginners like me, thank you
Great video, can you tell me why when I weld thin metal tubing using 6013 rode . The electoral stick to the metal tubing? Thanks
As an occasional DIY welder, I'd like to use 7018, but my rods can sometimes be weeks or even months old before I use them and I don't have a rod oven.
Do I need to be concerned about this when most of my welding is on 3mm plate or less, and never over 6mm?
Ultimate strength isn't usually a consideration either - it just needs to be a consistent reliable weld without inclusions etc.
TIA...
THANKS FOR ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO TIM, JUST SUBSCRIBED
Hey Tim could you recommend a welding rod to weld a steel truss to a cast steel center section of a Dana axle?
Thank you bro. Your channel is awesome
To get stronger fillet welds what would be the best rods? 6010/1 under a 7018 or 7016 under a 7018. I've been finding if I am to grind my 7018 filler welds back to square then there is absolutely no strength left and can be broken by a little hammer. This could just be me but I've been trying everything to get more penetration with these 7018 rods. I'm just buying some 4mm rods instead of 3.2 for this 8mm plate to see if that's going to help me
In what cases do we use AC for stick welding
Do you touch the rod on the surface of welded part or do you keep it away from the surface? My attempts keeps sticking
Hey! Just found your channel and really like it, have had much better luck with my 7018 welding than any rutile sticks, could be my inverter (Migatronic 160E) or just me😀. Anyway I have a tip for you, at 07:25 you refer to another video (that I will watch) and you can actually put a card into your video in the TH-cam studio function to have it pop up as a clickable link while you are talking. Anyway thanks for a great channel!
Great video and channel Tim, thank you! Your discussion on 7018 was particularly interesting. I think I am hearing that the home shop welder or person making non-critical welds shouldn’t necessarily avoid 7018 for general non-critical mild steel fabrication just because they can’t meet the rigorous oven storage requirements?
Great question. Without knowing the details of a particular weld, I can't necessarily say whether it is needed or not. I can explain why they are stored in an oven. If moisture is absorbed into the flux of a welding electrode, it can become a source of hydrogen for the welded metal. When hydrogen is diffused into steel, it can cause cracking in the solid material. In order for this cracking to occur, three conditions must all exist: 1. presence of hydrogen 2. a susceptible microstructure (hard steel) 3. stress or restraint on the weld. In order to prevent this condition, industrial welding practice takes two preventative measures, low hydrogen practice and preheat of the material. The requirements for both of these depend on the amount of alloying elements in the material and the material thickness (which lead to conditions 2 and 3). Basically, thicker material and steel with more stuff in it is more prone to cracking. To draw a line in the sand, the structural steel code, AWS D1.1, allows rods other than low hydrogen on A36 mild steel under 3/4" thick without preheat. That same code also requires all low hydrogen electrodes to be oven stored. I know it's a firehose, but hopefully it helps provide some understanding.
@@TimWelds Thanks for the thorough response Tim, that’s very enlightening! So it sounds to me like 7018’s flux is not necessarily more hygroscopic than any other rod, but it’s common use is with low-hydrogen procedures, so you need the oven to ensure you’re not introducing hydrogen from the flux in those cases. That makes me wonder though, why don’t people stick other rods, say 6010, in an oven and use them with a low hydrogen procedure?
@@Mike-ud5of That's a great question. 6010 is a cellulosic electrode and contains hydrogen in the composition of the flux. In fact, it's partially made of wood dust and also has a high affinity for moisture. During welding with 6010, hydrogen gas needs to be released for it to have the arc characteristics that it does. While definitely not a good practice, some old school guys will actually dip 6010's in water to make them more punchy. Rutile rods (like 6013) do not have the same level of hydrogen, but still perform best with some amount of moisture in the flux. That leaves 'basic' rods like 7018 to be the option for low hydrogen work. The moisture in the flux is only one source of hydrogen, in can come from the flux itself or from surface oils (HYDROcarbons). If you find this as fascinating as I do, you can head way down the rabbit hole by dunking some fresh, hot welds in mineral oil to see the different amounts of hydrogen bubbling out (www.hobartbrothers.com/index.php?mact=News,cntnt01,print,0&cntnt01articleid=157&cntnt01showtemplate=false&cntnt01returnid=523). Most likely, however, you have better things to do and the photographs in this article will suffice. Thanks for the fun discussion...I definitely nerd out on this stuff.
@@TimWelds Thanks again Tim, great info and insight, I am learning a ton here. I’ll check out the article. I think your experience in both the welding trade and in engineering gives you a pretty unique and valuable point of view to share-I appreciate it and enjoy your channel!
Thank you very cool videos subbed. I have learned alot thank you
I recently started stick welding with the little Deko machine using 3/32" 6013 and 6010 rods. My biggest problem right now is fillet(?) welds where I try to join two pieces at a 90-degree angle. My bead always ends up sticking to one or the other piece, usually the horizontal one, but rarely to both, and I seem to get no penetration. I'd love it if you'd go over some welding techniques for different, common weld types, material thickness, rod size, and amperage. I think you explain things really well and look forward to more of your videos.
You are correct, it is called a fillet weld. I would get the 6013 down before worrying about 6010. I haven't run 6010 on the Deko, but some of these small inverters will work better with 6011. Without watching you weld, it's hard to say what's not going right. However, there are only 3 things that need to go right, so I'll list those. Focus on the first one until you get it down, then move on to the next. First, hold a tight arc; it should only be around 1/8" long. If the arc goes out at that length, you may need to add a few amps. Second, pay attention to your angle. On a tee-joint fillet, you need to point the rod 45 degrees into the joint, and drag by about 10 degrees. Finally, pay attention to your movement. watch the puddle grow to the size of the weld you want and make sure it's on both plates, then move at a pace that keeps the puddle at the same width. It takes a lot of practice. If your weld isn't coming out right, 9 times out of 10 one or two of those things will solve the problem. I have a full stick welding tutorial on my channel that might help with technique, and I'm working on a video about amperage that will come out in a few weeks. Weld on!
@@TimWelds Thank you so much for your detailed reply. It is very helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to respond!
What was the material thickness? How much amperage were you using with the 6013s?
Man got mad skills!
witch rod would you recommend for welding galvanized steel channels 1/8 inch? thanks
Brilliant video thanks. I have tried a 2.5mm 7018 today and got nowhere, couldn't even strike an arc and kept sticking whatever I tried, swapped out to 2.5mm 6013 and ran a decent (albeit wonky) bead at around 80A. Rods were sealed and the welder is a basic draper arc welder with a manual dial. Going through the full range of amperage didn't seem to help but it was set I'd say in excess of 160A! I know the guy who owns it never swaps rods and 2.5mm 7018 is all he has. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? I didn't fully unwind the leads so don't know 100% what polarity it's on.
Sounds like wrong polarity , switch leads and try
Your very helpful!! Thank you very much!! God bless you
Astrein erklärt Brubi. Love it
Any recommendations on welding 3/16 tube. Stick , Gas Mig, .
Excellent video thank you 👍
Retired and new to welding with small farm. Purchasing a Hobart handler 200 for flux-core and stick. Welding metal on the Container rooftop for solar panels and Welding steel on container top to make an awning from one 40 foot container to the other.
Do you think that machine is a good fit for my self?
Rylie
Rylie
Sounds like a great project! There are a ton of machines that would work well for that, and the Hobart is a good choice. I actually learned to weld with a Hobart, though it was a lot older.
Good morning Tim
I have a problem with porosity.
How can it be avoid ❓
Thanks in advance
Thank you . Helpful video
Thanks Tim I want to weld,i have no knowledge & cannot claim beginner. I haven't even invested in anything yet.
what kind of disk were you using to grind the weld?
Your opinion of the best all postion all applications I think is off and I think alot out there will agree witch is 7018 it good for root and even better for capping and its the easiest for beginners to do a good looking weld. I think it's the best rod for doing vertical and I have even used it to weld a 3/4" thick lug to the underside of a beam so I could attach a temporary 2ton chain fall and weld prep is every thing. If you don't do good weld prep no rod will save you.
Great video man
My transformers connected in series makes very consistent welds and makes 6013 rods penetrate rust like 6010. Yes! 100% AC, but with good voltage, polarities and labels over electrodes don't matter.
Thanks again Tim
You bet
Another Great Video.
What kind of welder would you recommend purchaing for a mobile weld shop?
Tim the 🐐
Hi tim, im trying to purchase the weld course, keeps telling me it cant reach your server connection, ill keep trying 😊
I run an AC welding machine and im having trouble with the E6013 welding rods they create holes on thick metal should i go to 7018?
Tim has a 6013 vid for that.
Thank you so much for the info sir.
You mentioned that the 7018 rod should be used within 8 hours of breaking the seal on the package. Why is this? I assume the rod absorbs water from the atmosphere which would then split into hydrogen and oxygen when heated to arc temperatures. Both of these gasses are bad for the weld. Can one renew 7018 rods that have been in tubes that are not air tight? Can I renew my 7018 rods by heating them in my oven? If so what temperature and how long?
One manufacture says they can reheated in an electric on clean mode to reach over 550. One time. But you can use them like a regular rod if left out and the 7018 alloy is very strong.
Ive got a weld test for a new job tomorrow. I actually used to weld ALOT in High School but that was in 2005-2007 ive got to cut a 2 inch pipe in half and then weld 2 4x4 piece of 3/4inch metal pieces on one4x4 3/4 inch piece that’s laying down. Like a house with 2 walls across from each other then i gotta cut a 2 inch hole on top of another 4x4 piece to slide down the 2 inch pipe then weld the pipe at the bottom making those 2 4x4 walls a pain to fully weld the pipe to the bottom. Any suggestions? Its gotta pass a 70 psi test
Lord thundering Jesus, how did that test work out? I was taught by a Saskatchewan cattle rancher, out by the dead D12, I'll say no more.
Thanks Tim great help
Good video thanks for the advice
Thanks!
I only got 6013 welding rod where I live. And am new to ark welding
I am going to use a old miller 2e to weld a pipe fence. The pipe is sch 10 11 gauge carbon steel
Can someone help with rod type and size course current, amperage?
6010 my usual go-to all around rod, just burns through whatever is in it's way
Welding, more specifically stick welding, is satisfying
thanks for making this.
I am using a Pinnacle intruarc Inverter 151 welding machine If that helps.
Great video. It would have been helpful to spend 1 minute explaining how to alleviate the rod sticking to the material and not getting a good puddle going. One comment was about swapping the leads that are plugged into the box. Is that a way to stop sticking?
Try altering your angle of attack, don't stick or strike straight in at 90, try 45 or so, provided you set your machine properly of course :D
How many amps should I use for running 7018
That will depend on the size rod you are running, most rod boxes give you an amp range start in the lower middle of the range then bump up or down to find what your machine likes best.
I don't understand the 7018...if I buy a pack of electrodes, as a hobbyist, maybe I use a few, then throw out the rest? I'm not going to use an entire pack within 8hrs after opening it and breaking whatever seal it had. I know there are rod ovens but again, as a hobbyist, that's not an option and I just read that only works one time (not sure that's correct...sounds odd). Do any hobbyist welders use 7018, with the incumbent disposal of most of the remaining rods?
No. Don't throw them out. They are still probably better than any of your other rods. They just won't have low hydrogen anymore.
@@tsl7881 so, (hobbyist) people buy 7018 rods and use that pack for perhaps months or years but basically its main claim to fame (low hydrogen) is gone after the first day? Or is the low hydrogen aspect simply not that important compared to other aspects of the 7018 that linger on?
I love this guy