I'm brand new to welding and using 7018 rods and doing overlap's in different positions. I don't find it tedious at all, in fact I quite enjoy it. It's satisfying to get better.
I get some pretty, and porosity free, weaves out of fresh 7018s. One downside I note is a limited buildup rate, but I'm also a little too free to put extra heat down lately. Cheers!
I was assigned by my vocational school to watch both this video and your video about 6010. I appreciate the video, but I am absolutely pissed off that my instructors are passing their duties off onto youtube creators. Keep on keeping on. If anyone else is here from MTI Springfield, absolutely do voice your concerns to the faculty. It is the only way we might get back to welding.
If I could find a way in my budget to afford a welding machine, I could learn from videos. But with no means to practice from home, and all this time I am burning up months of my GI Bill for a vocation, it's rotten. And it isn't like my graduation will be delayed in order for me to become more experienced. I will just be pushed through like they have done so far with classes that have reached their graduation date.
@@ryanhogge8 keep it up man welding is a very good option for a good job--alsp dont be mad at me i have an old stick machine, but is still powerful for work and practice at home Greetings from Perú.
@@juanromarioavilesquispe9321 not mad at you man. I know it's a good job to have, so that's why I signed up for a course on it. It's just bull that I'm burning a finite resource I paid into, to be told to watch TH-cam videos instead of being taught. I can only imagine how mad some of my peers who are paying out of pocket are right now. I am thinking about buying an older stick welding machine (from the 60s or 70s), because I'm fairly good with reviving older equipment and often times it has a lot of character. I can probably justify that.
My dad was a welder for 60 plus years. He was never much of a 6010 fan. As for root pass. His go to rod was always 7010. Or if a bit of a gap needs to be closed quickly 7010. It’s a quick chill rod all positions and welds cleaner than 6010. It’s amazing how few so called professional welders know about 7010. It’s a better choice I think than 6010. Plus it’s 70,000 tensile strength just like 7018. I use it along with 7018 quite a bit doing heavy equipment repairs. It burns through rust grease well then cover with 7018
Wait. He never got promoted to something more interesting than welder in 60 years ? Welding is taught to kids 14 to 17 in vocational schools or something. It's because all those manual jobs are easy to learn I taught myself welding in 3 afternoons using the user manual from the welding machine and a few chapters from a welding book
@@xl000 Some people just like the lifestyle of being on the ground doing the work, maybe he had his own shop for those 60 years. There is a lot more to welding than hobbyist welding, codes, requirements, not to mention the sheer amount of different situations and metal types.
@@xl000 just goes to show you really don’t understand professional welding or structural welding or welding repair out in the field. It’s far different than running a small bead I. A shop on a work bench with a wire feed machine under near perfect conditions
I have no problem with 7018 roots mainly because that's the only stick the railway provides us but I have seen it repair major structural cracks from root to cap and have those welds hold up years later on rail cars that take absolutely horrendous structural beatings and if it can do that than I have no problem with it for roots because results matter more than opinions for me.
I was a journeyman Shipfitter at Puget Sound Naval Shipyard for 20 years... As part of the 4 year apprentice program, we went to weld school for 4 weeks... Had a great time! The instructor was a welding wizard! He did a demonstration and welded a soda can cut in half, back together by TIG welding it.
Thank you for pointing out that ovens are really just needed for code work!! I'm a happy hobbyist that mostly use 6013 but I use 7018 for some things, mostly custom impact tools, and they held up quite well over the years.
I don’t do much welding anymore unless it’s a repair. Depending on the repairs I’m doing, my go-to electrodes are usually 6010, 6011,7018, 8010. The Lincoln Excaliber 7018’s are probably my favorite though.
Get a pic of woman wearing bikini and welding,,, should work wonders... is called click bait. This is great information and shows an understanding of the way to weld. Thank you so much.
Great Job Mark! You are making a difference in the lives of our youth in all countries of the world that are learning from your educational videos. Thank You! 1 Source Mechanical Grand Canyon, AZ
Very good video. I can’t wait to get some kind of training . It’s hard to find a school near me that has flexible hours . I work full time , but I want a new career.
There are 4 public (federal) shipyards... East coast has Portsmouth Naval Shipyard (Maine) Norfolk Naval Shipyard (Virginia) Puget Sound Naval Shipyard (Washington state) Pear Harbor Naval Shipyard (Hawaii) Puget Sound and Norfolk both have 4 year apprentice training programs. Shop 26 is the Weldors... You should apply for one!
You need to pack your bags and go to Western Welding Academy." If you complete the "Profesional welding course," you will be able to weld anything. School don't have to be in your back door. Why would you settle for a lower paying 4 year apprenticeship when you could be finished in 6 months. You will not regret the decision. I moved away from home after high school, later at age 32 the wife and I moved a long way to attend another school. No regrets. Life is what you make it. No risk, no gain. Everything you do in life has a risk to it,new job, getting married, buying a new vehicle, you name it.
I welded for many years using 7018 AC. (It's rated for DC also). Read the box. The advantage is the flux has a conductive material in it that when it freezes over at the end of the pass it will restrike very easy. Anyone who welds with standard 7018 knows what a problem that is having to tap the end of the rod many times to get the rod to strike, It also has the advantage of being able to run on AC which is handy when you're getting arc blow from magnetic fields. It costs slightly more but it's worth it.
Nicely done! i'd like to know why 6010 is used when all i keep hearing is that it's almost the same as 6011. Well why not use 6011? it sure as heck starts easier than 6010, especially when you have a cheap machine with low open circuit voltage.
6011 has a slightly different flux so you can run it with cheap AC machines. When using DC, 6010 is preferred, To me it actually runs smoother than 6011. Certified welding is not done with cheap AC only machines. For general use at home, in your shop, doing non certified welding, 6010 and 6011 are pretty much interchangable when running DC.
Looks like I'm going to be buying some 70 18 rods just had to fix my Willis on my truck and I was wondering why you went to hide good beads they still had gaps or they looks like crap on the truck so I'm going to grind it down and redo it 6010 root and do the rest with the 7018
What is root pass? Forgive me I'm new to this. Just started with a 6013 first time. Now trying 7018, for heavier projects right? Great video, listening to the end, it did seem hard to use the 6010 for the first time practicing with
I need some help. I have been trying to get a bit of practice in as I don't have to weld very often and have no formal training yet, that's why I am practicing... Stayed late this evening at the workshop and pulled a few bits of scrap out of the bin to get a feel back. Tried a pack of 7018S which were sealed, I can't even strike an arc, when I do it just fizzles out then sticks solid. Ridiculous hollow formed after every strike which needed some flux scraping off every time, I guess as the power was set too high and the tip was like hardened ceramic. Welder (Draper arcweld 2011TD) was set at something like 160A and the owner only uses that rod in 2.5mm, as I said, way too high. I reset it to around 80A and tried my old box of 6013, worked a treat!? No amount of fiddling with power would give a good arc. Is the S significant in 7018S? The materials were a scrap forklift wheel and some wheel studs. Is this a bad rod for variable quality /grade steels?
I just got 3 pounds of 7018 I was so happy trying it out and no luck hahahaha set around 119a 125a 80a and no idea what I was doing 😅 😄 6013 work perfect 80a 91a I will practice more hahaha 😄 😆
From my years welding with 7018 I was told it was a better to use 7018 with alloys that have hardness or other alloys for strength like chrome molly, (molybdenum). It also shows better bonding with abr steel, or abrasive resistant.
It’s this weird American pipe welder thing! They only learned how to weld pipe and whenever the pipe work dried up every once in a while they would do structural work. So not understanding the purpose of 6010 they thought it was what you always route with even on structural joints that aren’t open route. So now routing with 6010 on everything and anything has bled into American welding even though it’s completely nonsense. Everywhere else in the world it 7018 all the way out when it’s not open route.
giving that the 7018 has a wider puddle is it a better rod for 90 degree angles joining two pieces steel tubing or do you need the deeper penetration from a 6010? No comments ladies.
Wow.. so that's why my 7018's are such a pain to use, being open, exposed and old. So there is a way to rejuvenate them? How long do I have to "bake them"? and what is the process???
Well fella’s........don’t let this grey hair fool ya’. OLD GUYS RULE............even though we can’t see shit......we can hear shit.......and we can’t remember shit.........now, here is the single most important safety clue I can give you, if you are going to weld as a career. ......NEVER look directly at your arc pool or puddle while you weld. Use your peripheral vision as your guide. Look ahead of your weld. Draw a thin line with soap stone first and follow that. The soap stone will floresce “light up” by the ultra violet from the arc. PROTECT YOUR EYES. Even though you use a dark lense, the arc is very powerful reflecting back into your hood. Wear shielded safety glasses. I am now 74. At night I see “spiders” in my eyes in the dark. So will you if you are not careful. Welding pays very well. Use welding to put you through college, and go find something else to do.
In Germany we have also 7016 Electrodes. Does someone know what the diffrence between the 7016 an the 7018 is? I prefer to use the 7016 more because the slag is not so much and removal is is better. Some of my older welders also don't like the 7018 despite the right polaraty.
There are 12 different FLUX formulas for 7018 electrodes. The differences are why some of the 7018's produce a excellent looking weld and also run very smooth and some are not so good in appearance and do not have the ability to run smoothly. They do all produce a low hydrogen weld if used properly. The real thing is the AWS certification as there are several companies that sell noncertified 7018 electrodes. BE AWARE!!! Steven Dyer Professor of Welding Metallurgy.
I know I'm not supposed to argue with my betters but I've never had or observed 7018 slag being difficult to remove. In fact if you run them hot 95% of the slag will remove itself. The slag just pretty much falls off by itself. Yes, still need to properly brush/clean but it's not difficult. 6010 has proven to be the complete opposite; a chipping hammer will do most of it but it's a task and 6010 slag is a problem if trapped in small cavities; grinder with wire brush disc is the best solution.
The difference being if the mineral based slag of 7018 is left in a welds it will create much larger issues than if you miss a piece of cellulose slag. Slag removal is most important in multipass welds and when that 7018 falls off, the edges still have slag that is harder to remove. If you wire wheel 6010, all the slag is gone where 7018 often requires the edges to be cleaned even more
I'm getting ready to weld a piece of 3" wide 3/8 steel to a 3" wide piece of 1/2 inch steel. They both are lined up with each other as if I'm making a piece thats a 7/8th piece of metal. In other words, I'm trying to weld them together without an overlap of the 2 pieces. I want to use 7018 rods. Do I need to bevel both pieces on the edges to create a well that the weld will fill between the 2 edges of the 2 pieces of steel?
Dumb question coming.? Can you tell me why a person would use the 7018 over top of the 6010.? And not just keep using the 6010... Is it because you mentioned its shallow but Wider... So you have the deep pen narrow 6010 rod 1st, then tie into it with the wider shallower 7018... Thx
7018 runs best on dc, however there 2 or 3 7018 's that are passable on AC, however they will have a tendency to stick a bit with a rod that is still hot from breaking off the arc and restarting quickly when restarting an arc.
The actual difference with Low Hydrogen rod is the molecular addition of water. With 6010 it is less critical since the puddle freezes faster. The hydrogen that disassociates from the water bonds with carbon to form hydrocarbons. Since the puddle freezes quickly, the hydrocarbons are less likely to go into reaction and create porosity, but they will make the weld somewhat brittle. However, with 7018 the puddle remains liquid and the resultant hydrocarbons will "fizz up" with the steel, creating porosity. Thus you have to keep 7018 hot enough to prevent moisture from bonding with the electrode.
Not all 7018 or low hydrogen is created equal, or targeted to the same skill level. More iron powder in the flux makes it easier to start but makes the puddle hotter. That’s ok for flat welds but challenging to weld uphill or overhead without undercutting or sagging out.
That's for sure! not all electrode are equal at all. Try some Radnor red 6010 and then try some 5P+ worlds of difference. Remember filler metal specifications are the minimum requirements, some brands go far beyond minimum.
7018 on an open root? or cert tests with backing? if you are running 7018 open roots, good on you, that weld takes some dam good skill. 7018 open roots are much more common in Europe, Don't see many open root 7018 welds.
You confuse me at 0:44. Are you sure you want to say "7018" ? Also, Iv'e used this rod for decades without dragging it across the joint, just keeping a short close arc; no issues. Clean the flux quickly before it cools, pops off much cleaner.
The manufacture of the rod can make all the difference in the world, even with "premium" brands. If you open a package and find big flakes of the coating, SEND IT BACK. It won't meat the specifications.
I use 7018. .I dont see any sense of this video. It stays in my service van for months flux peals off before I finish weld, i have even done welding outside while it is snowing no problem every thing goes fine.
He's trying to instill good welding practices. It's not that 7018 must be used within a certain time frame or it's junk. More so, that letting the rod absorb moisture is going to lead to shabby welds.
He's referring more to pipeline work and serious shit that gets x-rayed, any little projects you do aren't gonna have problems from a little moisture in the rod.
Is anybody else gonna ask if hes doing this video from a public restroom with stall doors in the background and a clone or soap dispenser mounted to the wall Next to the toolbox
Those are welding booths. The amber curtains are there to protect other peoples eyes who do not have helmet shields down. It's a school shop environment for welding students.
7018 is miserable to use on AC. Maybe worse than 6011 on AC. 7018 works well on D.C. Reminds me of 7014 on AC only a slight bit better yet. 7018 and 6011 just plain stick too much on AC.
I'm brand new to welding and using 7018 rods and doing overlap's in different positions. I don't find it tedious at all, in fact I quite enjoy it. It's satisfying to get better.
I luv doing that also! 7018 rules!
I get some pretty, and porosity free, weaves out of fresh 7018s. One downside I note is a limited buildup rate, but I'm also a little too free to put extra heat down lately.
Cheers!
I was assigned by my vocational school to watch both this video and your video about 6010.
I appreciate the video, but I am absolutely pissed off that my instructors are passing their duties off onto youtube creators.
Keep on keeping on. If anyone else is here from MTI Springfield, absolutely do voice your concerns to the faculty. It is the only way we might get back to welding.
as you , i need to watch youtube to learn more about welding
and stuff.
If I could find a way in my budget to afford a welding machine, I could learn from videos. But with no means to practice from home, and all this time I am burning up months of my GI Bill for a vocation, it's rotten. And it isn't like my graduation will be delayed in order for me to become more experienced. I will just be pushed through like they have done so far with classes that have reached their graduation date.
@@ryanhogge8 keep it up man
welding is a very good option for a good job--alsp dont be mad at me
i have an old stick machine, but is still powerful for work and practice at home
Greetings from Perú.
@@juanromarioavilesquispe9321 not mad at you man. I know it's a good job to have, so that's why I signed up for a course on it. It's just bull that I'm burning a finite resource I paid into, to be told to watch TH-cam videos instead of being taught.
I can only imagine how mad some of my peers who are paying out of pocket are right now.
I am thinking about buying an older stick welding machine (from the 60s or 70s), because I'm fairly good with reviving older equipment and often times it has a lot of character. I can probably justify that.
And the teachers always want more money. You'll probably learn more here anyway. Get your tuition back.
My dad was a welder for 60 plus years. He was never much of a 6010 fan. As for root pass. His go to rod was always 7010. Or if a bit of a gap needs to be closed quickly 7010. It’s a quick chill rod all positions and welds cleaner than 6010. It’s amazing how few so called professional welders know about 7010. It’s a better choice I think than 6010. Plus it’s 70,000 tensile strength just like 7018. I use it along with 7018 quite a bit doing heavy equipment repairs. It burns through rust grease well then cover with 7018
I agree 100 percent.
😁7014!
Wait. He never got promoted to something more interesting than welder in 60 years ?
Welding is taught to kids 14 to 17 in vocational schools or something. It's because all those manual jobs are easy to learn
I taught myself welding in 3 afternoons using the user manual from the welding machine and a few chapters from a welding book
@@xl000 Some people just like the lifestyle of being on the ground doing the work, maybe he had his own shop for those 60 years. There is a lot more to welding than hobbyist welding, codes, requirements, not to mention the sheer amount of different situations and metal types.
@@xl000 just goes to show you really don’t understand professional welding or structural welding or welding repair out in the field. It’s far different than running a small bead I. A shop on a work bench with a wire feed machine under near perfect conditions
I have no problem with 7018 roots mainly because that's the only stick the railway provides us but I have seen it repair major structural cracks from root to cap and have those welds hold up years later on rail cars that take absolutely horrendous structural beatings and if it can do that than I have no problem with it for roots because results matter more than opinions for me.
I was a journeyman Shipfitter at Puget Sound Naval Shipyard for 20 years... As part of the 4 year apprentice program, we went to weld school for 4 weeks... Had a great time! The instructor was a welding wizard! He did a demonstration and welded a soda can cut in half, back together by TIG welding it.
That's in Bremerton, right? 30 years ago, I always saw ads for welders over there. I wish I would have pursued it. Bremerton is a beautiful city, too!
@@vigilantobserver8389 Bremerton is a dump. Maybe it used to be nice but not anymore.
A soda can? That sounds impossible to me. I haven't learned tig yet though. I damn sure couldn't take my stick welder to it 🤣
A real practical teacher speaking, you can tell :)
Great Vid!
Thanks !! very informative !!!
Been using 6010 for years without really knowing what theyre all about but find them so easy to use !!.
Thank you for pointing out that ovens are really just needed for code work!! I'm a happy hobbyist that mostly use 6013 but I use 7018 for some things, mostly custom impact tools, and they held up quite well over the years.
I don’t do much welding anymore unless it’s a repair. Depending on the repairs I’m doing, my go-to electrodes are usually 6010, 6011,7018, 8010. The Lincoln Excaliber 7018’s are probably my favorite though.
Wow. That's some great info! I'm surprised this channel has few subscribers!!
I was thinking the same
Get a pic of woman wearing bikini and welding,,, should work wonders... is called click bait. This is great information and shows an understanding of the way to weld. Thank you so much.
@@AndrewSmith-bf9sl Actually, that would be a great way to promote skin cancer awareness!
Concise, precise, no filler (no pun intended). So glad I am a subscriber. Thank you sir.
Great Job Mark!
You are making a difference in the lives of our youth in all countries of the world that are learning from your educational videos.
Thank You!
1 Source Mechanical
Grand Canyon, AZ
In high school metal shop we nicknamed 7018 tank welding rod.
Very good video. I can’t wait to get some kind of training . It’s hard to find a school near me that has flexible hours . I work full time , but I want a new career.
There are 4 public (federal) shipyards... East coast has Portsmouth Naval Shipyard (Maine)
Norfolk Naval Shipyard (Virginia)
Puget Sound Naval Shipyard (Washington state)
Pear Harbor Naval Shipyard (Hawaii)
Puget Sound and Norfolk both have 4 year apprentice training programs.
Shop 26 is the Weldors... You should apply for one!
You need to pack your bags and go to Western Welding Academy." If you complete the "Profesional welding course," you will be able to weld anything. School don't have to be in your back door. Why would you settle for a lower paying 4 year apprenticeship when you could be finished in 6 months. You will not regret the decision. I moved away from home after high school, later at age 32 the wife and I moved a long way to attend another school. No regrets. Life is what you make it. No risk, no gain. Everything you do in life has a risk to it,new job, getting married, buying a new vehicle, you name it.
Absolute best video that explains this rod
thank you ,great information for a new welder .
This is blowing my mind. Is so simple!!!
Thanks for the videos. You are a recent find. Just a retiree, hobby welder, but the info is great!
keep an eye out for more soon! thanks
Awesome explanation.
Very informative. Thank you.
I welded for many years using 7018 AC. (It's rated for DC also). Read the box. The advantage is the flux has a conductive material in it that when it freezes over at the end of the pass it will restrike very easy. Anyone who welds with standard 7018 knows what a problem that is having to tap the end of the rod many times to get the rod to strike, It also has the advantage of being able to run on AC which is handy when you're getting arc blow from magnetic fields. It costs slightly more but it's worth it.
Very nice Video thx for making it
Well done, maestro..!!
Not only very strong, but very ductile as well. But liked 6010 just as well
Nicely done! i'd like to know why 6010 is used when all i keep hearing is that it's almost the same as 6011. Well why not use 6011? it sure as heck starts easier than 6010, especially when you have a cheap machine with low open circuit voltage.
6011 has a slightly different flux so you can run it with cheap AC machines. When using DC, 6010 is preferred, To me it actually runs smoother than 6011. Certified welding is not done with cheap AC only machines. For general use at home, in your shop, doing non certified welding, 6010 and 6011 are pretty much interchangable when running DC.
Looks like I'm going to be buying some 70 18 rods just had to fix my Willis on my truck and I was wondering why you went to hide good beads they still had gaps or they looks like crap on the truck so I'm going to grind it down and redo it 6010 root and do the rest with the 7018
What is root pass? Forgive me I'm new to this. Just started with a 6013 first time. Now trying 7018, for heavier projects right?
Great video, listening to the end, it did seem hard to use the 6010 for the first time practicing with
Wow, I really appreciate you!
Hello, my advice is very good, thank you. How can I write to you in person?
Very informative
very good explanation !!!
Thanks so much for your information, great help.
I need some help. I have been trying to get a bit of practice in as I don't have to weld very often and have no formal training yet, that's why I am practicing... Stayed late this evening at the workshop and pulled a few bits of scrap out of the bin to get a feel back. Tried a pack of 7018S which were sealed, I can't even strike an arc, when I do it just fizzles out then sticks solid. Ridiculous hollow formed after every strike which needed some flux scraping off every time, I guess as the power was set too high and the tip was like hardened ceramic. Welder (Draper arcweld 2011TD) was set at something like 160A and the owner only uses that rod in 2.5mm, as I said, way too high. I reset it to around 80A and tried my old box of 6013, worked a treat!? No amount of fiddling with power would give a good arc. Is the S significant in 7018S? The materials were a scrap forklift wheel and some wheel studs. Is this a bad rod for variable quality /grade steels?
I just got 3 pounds of 7018 I was so happy trying it out and no luck hahahaha set around 119a 125a 80a and no idea what I was doing 😅 😄 6013 work perfect 80a 91a I will practice more hahaha 😄 😆
Us old shade tree welding don't know technology just what holds the steel to iron, like to hear pros explain.
I'm a beginner for welding can you make a video tips for 6011rod ?
From my years welding with 7018 I was told it was a better to use 7018 with alloys that have hardness or other alloys for strength like chrome molly, (molybdenum). It also shows better bonding with abr steel, or abrasive resistant.
Good informative video
6010 with roots with backing bars I've never heard of that backers it's 7018 all the way
It’s this weird American pipe welder thing! They only learned how to weld pipe and whenever the pipe work dried up every once in a while they would do structural work. So not understanding the purpose of 6010 they thought it was what you always route with even on structural joints that aren’t open route. So now routing with 6010 on everything and anything has bled into American welding even though it’s completely nonsense. Everywhere else in the world it 7018 all the way out when it’s not open route.
For those who keep thinking "don't wip 7018".... youre going to lmfao and you're going to learn when the Flux is out of the puddle
giving that the 7018 has a wider puddle is it a better rod for 90 degree angles joining two pieces steel tubing or do you need the deeper penetration from a 6010? No comments ladies.
Wow.. so that's why my 7018's are such a pain to use, being open, exposed and old. So there is a way to rejuvenate them? How long do I have to "bake them"? and what is the process???
8-10 hrs if I’m not wrong at 250 degrees
Serve with Cranberry sauce.
1 to 2 hours in the oven at 300 degree.
Done!!
Well fella’s........don’t let this grey hair fool ya’. OLD GUYS RULE............even though we can’t see shit......we can hear shit.......and we can’t remember shit.........now, here is the single most important safety clue I can give you, if you are going to weld as a career. ......NEVER look directly at your arc pool or puddle while you weld. Use your peripheral vision as your guide. Look ahead of your weld. Draw a thin line with soap stone first and follow that. The soap stone will floresce “light up” by the ultra violet from the arc.
PROTECT YOUR EYES. Even though you use a dark lense, the arc is very powerful reflecting back into your hood. Wear shielded safety glasses. I am now 74. At night I see “spiders” in my eyes in the dark. So will you if you are not careful. Welding pays very well. Use welding to put you through college, and go find something else to do.
Hi. Is 7018 a cellulose welding rod or basic welding rod?
Basic. Someone please correct if im wrong.
In Germany we have also 7016 Electrodes. Does someone know what the diffrence between the 7016 an the 7018 is? I prefer to use the 7016 more because the slag is not so much and removal is is better. Some of my older welders also don't like the 7018 despite the right polaraty.
Thank you sir.
I use E7018's almost exclusively on the shipyard.
Low high or high low is about miss alignment in fit up.
From a guy in the field
In the southern field, we call them LH rods.
There are 12 different FLUX formulas for 7018 electrodes. The differences are why some of the 7018's produce a excellent looking weld and also run very smooth and some are not so good in appearance and do not have the ability to run smoothly. They do all produce a low hydrogen weld if used properly. The real thing is the AWS certification as there are several companies that sell noncertified 7018 electrodes. BE AWARE!!! Steven Dyer Professor of Welding Metallurgy.
Does that have anything to do with AC and non AC use for some 7018 rods?
What is the difference between the stick number E 7018 & E 7018- 1
-1
I know I'm not supposed to argue with my betters but I've never had or observed 7018 slag being difficult to remove. In fact if you run them hot 95% of the slag will remove itself. The slag just pretty much falls off by itself. Yes, still need to properly brush/clean but it's not difficult. 6010 has proven to be the complete opposite; a chipping hammer will do most of it but it's a task and 6010 slag is a problem if trapped in small cavities; grinder with wire brush disc is the best solution.
The difference being if the mineral based slag of 7018 is left in a welds it will create much larger issues than if you miss a piece of cellulose slag. Slag removal is most important in multipass welds and when that 7018 falls off, the edges still have slag that is harder to remove. If you wire wheel 6010, all the slag is gone where 7018 often requires the edges to be cleaned even more
@@markprosserwelds9419 Thanks Mark.
We us 6011 first pass 7018 dress-up for final pass.
If read that 7018 is used because it is able to flex and 6010 is more brittle. So why put 6010 underneath if it is not suitable?
I'm getting ready to weld a piece of 3" wide 3/8 steel to a 3" wide piece of 1/2 inch steel. They both are lined up with each other as if I'm making a piece thats a 7/8th piece of metal. In other words, I'm trying to weld them together without an overlap of the 2 pieces. I want to use 7018 rods. Do I need to bevel both pieces on the edges to create a well that the weld will fill between the 2 edges of the 2 pieces of steel?
You need to buy a piece 1 inch thick piece and bandsaw 1/8" off
You meant whipping is for 6010, right?
Right
Dumb question coming.? Can you tell me why a person would use the 7018 over top of the 6010.? And not just keep using the 6010... Is it because you mentioned its shallow but Wider... So you have the deep pen narrow 6010 rod 1st, then tie into it with the wider shallower 7018... Thx
Because 7018 is a LOW hydrogen electrode, stronger, cleaner, higher quality, all in the different flux
Go to .0:35 and listen for 10 seconds for your first mistake.
I had to replay a bit but just an error it happens to everybody.
What was it?
@@leonardorojas1781 He said 7018 instead of 6010 but we all knew what he meant.
At :30- :42 you said "...........we can't whip it like we did with the 7018 rod" . Did you mean 6010?
YEs 6010
7018 runs best on dc, however there 2 or 3 7018 's that are passable on AC, however they will have a tendency to stick a bit with a rod that is still hot from breaking off the arc and restarting quickly when restarting an arc.
right and also consider bad arcblow and brands of electrodes.
Thankyou.
The actual difference with Low Hydrogen rod is the molecular addition of water. With 6010 it is less critical since the puddle freezes faster. The hydrogen that disassociates from the water bonds with carbon to form hydrocarbons. Since the puddle freezes quickly, the hydrocarbons are less likely to go into reaction and create porosity, but they will make the weld somewhat brittle. However, with 7018 the puddle remains liquid and the resultant hydrocarbons will "fizz up" with the steel, creating porosity. Thus you have to keep 7018 hot enough to prevent moisture from bonding with the electrode.
7018 negative root 7018 positive fill and cap. Uphill welding.
Not all 7018 or low hydrogen is created equal, or targeted to the same skill level. More iron powder in the flux makes it easier to start but makes the puddle hotter. That’s ok for flat welds but challenging to weld uphill or overhead without undercutting or sagging out.
That's for sure! not all electrode are equal at all. Try some Radnor red 6010 and then try some 5P+ worlds of difference. Remember filler metal specifications are the minimum requirements, some brands go far beyond minimum.
High low or low high 😂😂 I like that one
Can this rod do uphill vertical?
YES all position
the most difficult rod to start Arc and weld with
Its called using a file
Tap the excess slag off with the middle of your chipping hammer don't bother to try and start with fingernails
Nice and easy 🇮🇷👌
All certification test I have ever taken they only allow you to use the 7018 from root to cap.6010 was not allowed .
7018 on an open root? or cert tests with backing? if you are running 7018 open roots, good on you, that weld takes some dam good skill. 7018 open roots are much more common in Europe, Don't see many open root 7018 welds.
Sir, which one gives the more strength MIG or 7018 in arc welding on MS job
Why has he not answered you?
poopnapkin maybe because this video is 1 year old? Dumbass
Welder drew, where do you and your family live?
Atom Robotics it depends on what MIG wire you use.
poopnapkin wow you must really love to ask stupid questions..... try to drag your leg a little less.
how many amps do you need to weld with electrode 7018 of 2.5
all you can get away with, without falling through different strokes 4 different machines.
Amps needed are usually Iisted on the box.
120a i think 🤔
You confuse me at 0:44. Are you sure you want to say "7018" ? Also, Iv'e used this rod for decades without dragging it across the joint, just keeping a short close arc; no issues. Clean the flux quickly before it cools, pops off much cleaner.
I got 7018 from harbor freight and they are very hard to start. The 6011 from HF start very easily.
Had that issue as well. I even switched to 7014 Forney . No issues with that rod
The manufacture of the rod can make all the difference in the world, even with "premium" brands. If you open a package and find big flakes of the coating, SEND IT BACK. It won't meat the specifications.
@@michaelgreaves2375 Meat? How bovine!
That's why smart folks call it "Harbor Fright".
Stay away from Harbor Fright; a good company that sell inferior Chineseum junk.
Haha, I’m pretty baked too.
the air we breathe is mostly nitrogen and oxygen, not hydrogen...
If you get moisture, even humidity in the flux the hydrogen comes from the H2O. That’s why it has to be kept dry.
Joints with backers are ran 7018 all the way not a 6010 root
Definitely! Root can be done DCEN .
Hi
its 7018, 6010 and all that.. its a produkt of Lincoln, and what type, basic, Rutile...
I use 7018. .I dont see any sense of this video. It stays in my service van for months flux peals off before I finish weld, i have even done welding outside while it is snowing no problem every thing goes fine.
Do you store them in a hot box?
Agree. No crazy storage used and for me the easiest rods all around to work with
He's trying to instill good welding practices. It's not that 7018 must be used within a certain time frame or it's junk. More so, that letting the rod absorb moisture is going to lead to shabby welds.
He's referring more to pipeline work and serious shit that gets x-rayed, any little projects you do aren't gonna have problems from a little moisture in the rod.
Very Good!... 96 🐄🦉🏴☠✝
250 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit???????? ❓❓❓❓❓❓❓😱
He's American so it's Fahrenheit
Is anybody else gonna ask if hes doing this video from a public restroom with stall doors in the background and a clone or soap dispenser mounted to the wall Next to the toolbox
Those are welding booths. The amber curtains are there to protect other peoples eyes who do not have helmet shields down. It's a school shop environment for welding students.
@@tigerseye73 Thanks tigerseye I really had no idea
0:43 you said 7018 you meant 6010 I believe
at 39 seconds in you say you cant use whip like you did with the 7018 Uh I thought we were talking about 7018 skip to next video
Yup, he's not very good at this.
7018 over 6010 ? Coded work ? Not in the Navy doing nuke work. NDT will kick it right back.
not sure of the question. not sure of the code, not sure of the application, procedure, not sure I have a answer for you.
Using 6010 for anything other than routing on open route is pointless. If there’s a backing plate then 7018 all the way!
smacking those lips is important in explaining use of rod....
really disturbing arrogant and authoritarian attitude 🤦♂
disturbing? hmmm, well get a helmet squrill
7018 is built for battleships unless your welding together a battleship no use for a 7018 6011 is plenty good
7018 is miserable to use on AC. Maybe worse than 6011 on AC. 7018 works well on D.C. Reminds me of 7014 on AC only a slight bit better yet. 7018 and 6011 just plain stick too much on AC.