once you put the new welded plug in not a issue anymore and like my truck if its has a build date after 12/1/2007 and has the brown coil packs it has the new regular plugs they will come right out
They almost made a great tool here. It will work on a plug that is intact. I had 2 plugs where the threaded collar separated, with the rest of the plug stuck in the engine. The collar walked up the porcelain until it ran out of threads. The collar was tight on the porcelain. In this condition their fool does not work because the spark plug socket hits the hex of the plug which stops the tool from going over the plug before the other part of the tool can reach the top of the plug to grab it. If they had cut the hex shape deeper into their plug socket it would then work for this situation.
Would someone explain what he couldn't. The jury is out on the functionality of the tool because he should given a good look at the tool and an explanation of how it works prior to using it. It probably would have helped if you could see what he was doing
What if I have to get a plug way in back ..this tool doesn't seem very mobile seems like it would be hard to get it on a back plug with out a swivel tool
What do you use if the actual spark part when you gap it at is stuck on a ford fusion 2013? Then what is the best tool use for that or better yet can you do a video on that simulation by chance ASAP.
Hi. I broke the ceramic pieces. And it went inside immediately. And that goes worst and worst. I worked the car and I felt something's wrong and turned it off at once.
if I have a n old truck with this engine, but nothing is wrong, should I replace the plugs anyway? if truck is now 10 years old and I buy nw plugs, are the new ones designed differently to avoid this problem?
Screw that. Get engine up to temp, remove with impact. Pneumatic, NOT electric. Since we started doing that, we haven't had a broken plug. Our 'Ford' tool sits in the shop junk locker, lol.
That worked for two of mine and on the third the threaded sleeve came out and the rest of the plug stayed in. can i still use the tool without having to break the plug to get it out??
Done plugs on friends' 3v Mustangs. 5 cars deep now. Not a broken plug. all well over 90k when plugs got done. 2 are of unknown if plugs were changed by previous owner. No impact, I wish. Seems less tedious. Carb cleaner and hot motor. Take time one at a time. Heat motor back up before every plug. Initial crack is scary. Spray more carb cleaner and rock. A lot of force patience. took so long on 3-4-5 that the coil had to go back on to heat them up again. Noticed 3 of 5 cars had the quick connect under manifold leaking. Fold hates car buyers.
Yep. This is only an issue with the three valve engines. The original two valve design from 1991 to 1998 has proven to be virtually indestructible. Ford did durability testing on the original two valve design with test engines with 500,000 miles having minimal wear. My buddies 1997 F150 went almost 600,000 miles. When the LS engines came out, Ford felt the need to change that design to compete with the higher horsepower engines.
TrakSpock1 the only issue??? What about the junk cam phasers knocking??? junk oil pumps?? broken plastic timing chain guides?? leaky timing chain tension??? bad vct sellinoids??
cam phasers knocking can be mitigated easily by changing your oil on time and using 5w30 oil instead of 5w20. junk oil pumps you are the first to mention it. the broken plastic timing chain guides is a direct result of a bad cam shaft phaser. agains leaking time chain tension is poor servicing by the owner, and the vct solenoids do not fail often.
Tony, In 05 I bought a brand new F150. I changed my oil regularly at 5,000 miles using Mobil one oil and filters. Did all the maintenance myself, at 120,000 miles my cam phasers went out, my VCT valves went out, my passenger side chain guide broke in three pieces all because of a failed tensioner. HOWEVER MY BAD... i did put 5w20 in it...JUST AS THE FILL CAP SAYS . I lead a very hectic and busy life but I didn't think i had to then go out and surf the web from time to time to find out what necessary "adjustments" I needed to do to keep it on the road. So..does that make me a "poor servicing owner" or does Ford Motor Company have any fault here? This motor is a POS... We all know of a very competent Ford technician here on youtube that give us great advice on these Triton 3V engines when they crap out. And guess what his daily driver is.... Dodge diesel !!! Hum....
I thought I scrolled down a little as the top of the video was cut off, then used my trusty mouse scroll wheel to scroll up, nope, I was already on top.
Sometimes, well actually most of the time....the threaded nut portion will separate from the porcelain of the plug itself and the housing for the ground electrode shield gets frozen down in the cylinder head and by using the collet holder and the adapter it will act as a puller and pull out the assembly without the need of using an extractor kit or needing to remove the cylinder head. i just purchased this kit recently and will be using it on every triton motor needing a tune-up.
Question? I pulled the plug out but just the little U part and the end was missing everything else was intact.I looked down the hole and saw nothing. I'm assuming it was broken off long before I pulled the plug out. Do I need to scope it or try to vacuum it out just to be on the safe side. Or does it just disintegrate or will over time. Thanks
They design stuff to fail and be complicated so you have to take it to someone to fix..hopefully a ford mechanic so they can profit. They know how to make stuff to last extremely long time but choose not to do so. My next vehicle will be a chevy after having fords all my 50 years.
If you go by Ford recommendations, they will be stuck. I remember every 3 months I went though all the tune up parts and a bunch of fluids and filters.
They absolutely do have similar issues all their own. Toyota drive by wire was killing people. Floor mat interfered with sensor on the Denso made sensor and the other one was just faulty. That is way worse than a broken plug while wrenching.
Not to be mean but why are you here? Buy a Japanese car. Had Hondas, vacuum leaks are a nightmare to figure out. Setting timing on Toyotas suck(and if that belt breaks, you'll be buying an engine. Nissans are booty. Subaru is to expensive. Mitsubishi makes crappy cars with difficult to find parts. Euros make trash as well. You can find faults with every manufacturer.
your idiot chevy engines are crap just rebuilt a 2012 chevy truck with burned pistons with only 120,000 miles because there stupid ass engine management system
This video makes me angrier than the spark plug design, I bet you were one of the engineers for Ford.
yeah, im angry at the spark plug design too... and this guys tool is making me angrier.. dont buy this crap, get a lisle.
@@subethersgate7676 Get a Toyota!
once you put the new welded plug in not a issue anymore and like my truck if its has a build date after 12/1/2007 and has the brown coil packs it has the new regular plugs they will come right out
They almost made a great tool here. It will work on a plug that is intact. I had 2 plugs where the threaded collar separated, with the rest of the plug stuck in the engine. The collar walked up the porcelain until it ran out of threads. The collar was tight on the porcelain. In this condition their fool does not work because the spark plug socket hits the hex of the plug which stops the tool from going over the plug before the other part of the tool can reach the top of the plug to grab it. If they had cut the hex shape deeper into their plug socket it would then work for this situation.
Whatever you, dont use the Ford OEM tool. Get the Lisle tool, was about $75, but it is well worth it.
Would someone explain what he couldn't. The jury is out on the functionality of the tool because he should given a good look at the tool and an explanation of how it works prior to using it. It probably would have helped if you could see what he was doing
Great camera work genius!! Nice floor ya got there.
Lmfao
What is the name of the tool your using
Why go to all the trouble of making such a good cutaway with the head then not even bother getting a decent camera set up? It just boggles the mind.
Umm yea..so what do you do when just the tip is left in the head and the porcelain is broken away?
Bungman Agforty you need a Lisle remover then...
Bungman Agforty buy something that isn't a piece of shit
What if I have to get a plug way in back ..this tool doesn't seem very mobile seems like it would be hard to get it on a back plug with out a swivel tool
Dave Pacino take the hood of genius.
2v o 3v?
where is the top of the video ????!?!!?
Cant see the upper half of video
were can i find those tools
What is “ croil “? Guessing it was some type of oil sprayed ?
Wanting to change plugs - scared to death 😱
Zoom the video out a bit so we can see the wrench and turns. Other then that good video
If the collet comes off why not just epoxy it back on and then reattempt to remove the plug?
The threaded nut sorry not the collet.
What is that tool called and about how much is it?
Thank you Jennifer H
What do you use if the actual spark part when you gap it at is stuck on a ford fusion 2013? Then what is the best tool use for that or better yet can you do a video on that simulation by chance ASAP.
Hi. I broke the ceramic pieces. And it went inside immediately. And that goes worst and worst. I worked the car and I felt something's wrong and turned it off at once.
if I have a n old truck with this engine, but nothing is wrong, should I replace the plugs anyway? if truck is now 10 years old and I buy nw plugs, are the new ones designed differently to avoid this problem?
is this the otc 6918 kit?
right, but what do you do when the threads are stuck down in there?
I have that exact issue. The plug broge at the nut. All the threads are still in there with the tip. Ughghgggg
Did you find a way to get through it?
Screw that. Get engine up to temp, remove with impact. Pneumatic, NOT electric. Since we started doing that, we haven't had a broken plug. Our 'Ford' tool sits in the shop junk locker, lol.
That worked for two of mine and on the third the threaded sleeve came out and the rest of the plug stayed in. can i still use the tool without having to break the plug to get it out??
Wow, we never had that happen. I would try the tool I guess. So there is no place for a socket to bite on anymore?
Why not electric?
Done plugs on friends' 3v Mustangs. 5 cars deep now. Not a broken plug. all well over 90k when plugs got done. 2 are of unknown if plugs were changed by previous owner. No impact, I wish. Seems less tedious. Carb cleaner and hot motor. Take time one at a time. Heat motor back up before every plug. Initial crack is scary. Spray more carb cleaner and rock. A lot of force patience. took so long on 3-4-5 that the coil had to go back on to heat them up again. Noticed 3 of 5 cars had the quick connect under manifold leaking. Fold hates car buyers.
Does this only happen with the three valve heads ?
Yep. This is only an issue with the three valve engines. The original two valve design from 1991 to 1998 has proven to be virtually indestructible. Ford did durability testing on the original two valve design with test engines with 500,000 miles having minimal wear. My buddies 1997 F150 went almost 600,000 miles. When the LS engines came out, Ford felt the need to change that design to compete with the higher horsepower engines.
TrakSpock1 the 2 valve just blows the plugs out the head! had two of mine blow out the other day! please ford
TrakSpock1 the only issue??? What about the junk cam phasers knocking??? junk oil pumps?? broken plastic timing chain guides?? leaky timing chain tension??? bad vct sellinoids??
cam phasers knocking can be mitigated easily by changing your oil on time and using 5w30 oil instead of 5w20. junk oil pumps you are the first to mention it. the broken plastic timing chain guides is a direct result of a bad cam shaft phaser. agains leaking time chain tension is poor servicing by the owner, and the vct solenoids do not fail often.
Tony, In 05 I bought a brand new F150. I changed my oil regularly at 5,000 miles using Mobil one oil and filters. Did all the maintenance myself, at 120,000 miles my cam phasers went out, my VCT valves went out, my passenger side chain guide broke in three pieces all because of a failed tensioner. HOWEVER MY BAD... i did put 5w20 in it...JUST AS THE FILL CAP SAYS . I lead a very hectic and busy life but I didn't think i had to then go out and surf the web from time to time to find out what necessary "adjustments" I needed to do to keep it on the road. So..does that make me a "poor servicing owner" or does Ford Motor Company have any fault here? This motor is a POS... We all know of a very competent Ford technician here on youtube that give us great advice on these Triton 3V engines when they crap out. And guess what his daily driver is.... Dodge diesel !!! Hum....
Never mind I heard the name, I'll look it up. Thanks for responding.
Ar'Mond Greene
Awesome video brother
Anti-seize just a little bit goes a long way !!!
I thought I scrolled down a little as the top of the video was cut off, then used my trusty mouse scroll wheel to scroll up, nope, I was already on top.
What do you do when only the metal sleeve itself is stuck?
Sometimes, well actually most of the time....the threaded nut portion will separate from the porcelain of the plug itself and the housing for the ground electrode shield gets frozen down in the cylinder head and by using the collet holder and the adapter it will act as a puller and pull out the assembly without the need of using an extractor kit or needing to remove the cylinder head. i just purchased this kit recently and will be using it on every triton motor needing a tune-up.
Afuc ford were they get engineer
ingemar lutter ford didn't design the spark plug chuckle nuts.
Thanks for sharing brother, good job
Okay, Vid, but I could not see @ the end, cuz the - Camera was not showing it? ¿😕
Question? I pulled the plug out but just the little U part and the end was missing everything else was intact.I looked down the hole and saw nothing. I'm assuming it was broken off long before I pulled the plug out. Do I need to scope it or try to vacuum it out just to be on the safe side. Or does it just disintegrate or will over time.
Thanks
What did you end up doing?
Typical how they break when removing.
Where can I get this kit?
You can get this at any OTC dealer or online
The upper 1/4 of the subject is out of frame
nobody at ford thought to add a dab of antiseize at the factory??
That cost extra.
The factory plugs are nickle coated threads. Antiseize can cause those plugs to be over-torqued as a result.
They design stuff to fail and be complicated so you have to take it to someone to fix..hopefully a ford mechanic so they can profit. They know how to make stuff to last extremely long time but choose not to do so. My next vehicle will be a chevy after having fords all my 50 years.
Antiseize won't work where the copper sleeve meets the head. That's where this tool will fail. Get the Lisle tool.
I rop[e a coil bolt own the plug jole with plug in still but the coil bolt wege tight in-between hea an plug what can i o?
You did not show the entire video of the top please pan up
Why people wait so long change spark plugs 14 years I can’t believe the do that
Danford Loy they know no better and are told the are 100,000 mile plugs!
If you go by Ford recommendations, they will be stuck. I remember every 3 months I went though all the tune up parts and a bunch of fluids and filters.
Nice cutaway but crummy video
He show show the top part.
thak you for help us
I just watched this and I have no idea what he said and what the tool was that he used...he talked fast and very vague in his explanations...Ugh!
Just use magnetic stick make easier lol
try putting the camera on the subject ??^&*()
Poor video when it's come to the spray
WTF?
That's why the Japanese cars are the best never problem like this, waste of time fixing this trouble
They absolutely do have similar issues all their own. Toyota drive by wire was killing people. Floor mat interfered with sensor on the Denso made sensor and the other one was just faulty. That is way worse than a broken plug while wrenching.
Not to be mean but why are you here? Buy a Japanese car. Had Hondas, vacuum leaks are a nightmare to figure out. Setting timing on Toyotas suck(and if that belt breaks, you'll be buying an engine. Nissans are booty. Subaru is to expensive. Mitsubishi makes crappy cars with difficult to find parts. Euros make trash as well. You can find faults with every manufacturer.
All that work and headache and the customer freaks out when you give them bill because you had to extract 8 out 8 spark plugs in there POS ford
What a piece of shit engine.. thanks for the heads up
They should all be recalled
honchoryanc the engine is not a pos, it is good and surprisingly reliable, the spark plug dilemma is a pos
BigOldF150 reliable???!!!!! the 3 valve ford's are the biggest piece of shit engines ever made!
your idiot chevy engines are crap just rebuilt a 2012 chevy truck with burned pistons with only 120,000 miles because there stupid ass engine management system
CMDR T Pup they do last a long time and the spark plug issue is just that, a spark plug issue not motor
go here to see how this tool is used. th-cam.com/video/u0KsFVpksTg/w-d-xo.html
H
😂 ford sucks