Idk why people write so much hate to you. I have a 50cc and I am just like you, I like trying homemade things to make my moped better. I love your videos!
Side gapping is used in Racing . High Fuel Ratios and High temperatures . Side gap plugs dissipate heat from themselves quicker to avoid overheating and Melting the Electrodes . The Plugs do NOT make more Power . Even a High-end MSD ignition doesn't . What happens is MISFIRES are eliminated .
This is not facts. I side gapped and indexed spark plugs on a sr20det on 18psi and it made 7WHP on a dyno over non side gapped and indexed spark plugs. Sr20 also gained 3-4mpg more over standard plugs.
@@thatnissanchannel5410 . EVERYTHING you just said there AGREES with what I said . It is NOT the Plugs that intrinsically produce more Power however , it IS the increased Ignition EFFICIENCY in a Boosted Engine which WILL be using a Rich Fuel Mix . Especially on a DYNO RUN . THINK prior to speak please .
For all the comments putting down his testing. This is simply some of the ways you get in the fast lane. Test and trail. If you don't like it just stay over there in the slow lane👍
Side spark in racing has nothing to do with the ground terminal blocking the combustion. When the spark "dances" it changes length and there fore temp. Racing calls for consistency of high performance precision at the cost of longevity. You electrode and ground post are going to concentrate all of the wear in one "laser" spot increasing gap wear quickly out of optimal range. Not an issue if you change them after every race.
Well put, I was in mechanics for years, now retired. But, the way you explained how the spark, can ignite the fuel quicker, makes perfect sense !!! The quicker the burn, the more force is gained. Excellent. 👍 PS, put a very small bit of Coper-ease on your Plug threads, this saves wear on the Alloy threads!
I learnt 40 years ago to never use any copper based compound with aluminium, in my opinion and as it happens the opinion of the guy who developed it it has become one of the most overrated and misused products ever put out there. Most metals are sacrificial to copper most especially aluminium which in many circumstances will corrode rapidly in its presence it should also never be used to lubricate anything that moves.
the steady spark is because it connects the closest points. with the original the surfaces are parallel and spark can form anywhere between the parallel surfaces but will have the same power every time. With the side gap the location of the spark is constant and will wear the side of the electrode then the gap will increase. It is possible the flame will travel slightly better because it can spread in all directions initially but hard to tell if it helps without clear tests
many years ago I had a single cylinder 185 suzuki 2 stroke that had 2 spark plugs in the head so if one fouled you could swap the lead to the other one for a fresh plug. But what I did was add another coil & lead to the second plug so both were firing & it made a huge difference way more low down power & always started so easy.
Not sure if you know this but the second sparkplug hole was originally for a decompression for easier start then it was found they didn't really need it so it was used as a spare plug,interesting how you hooked both up though that's pretty cool.
I did the same with a 500 Enfield! Removed decompression and fitted another plug,being that the thread profiles were identical. Fitted a dual output coil,ported the head and inlet,re jetted the carb and fitted a much less restrictive silencer. Gained a little in power,but the improvement in throttle response was huge. Made for a much sweeter and enjoyable ride.
@@g.g.6362 You would actually think it should cause knocking, as the wave front starts in 2 places at once. Maybe the oil in 2 stroke & the lower compression of worn engines.
My 73' Yamaha dt250 has two plugs with one lead from the coil. It's tuned just right 👌🏽 and I've maintained it properly, I've never even had to use the extra plug... Not once.
I've been grinding my spark plugs since the 1960s, except the Iridium plugs. [Dodge D-50 2.6 5 spd.] I VASCAR tested 1/8 mile of 3 runs (averaged) & went from 14.25 to 13.75 seconds. My mpg's also went up. Granted it's a sort-a small amount but it cost ZERO. __ CHEERS 😉
leave the spark plug alone, if the bike is not meant to have side spark spark plugs then there is a chance the engine will run hotter and you will burn your valves just like running a lean tune
The ignition has to be able to create the spark longer too. I used side gapped plugs in 2 stroke engines turning 20,000 rpm. But the pumper carbs had externally adjustable low and high speed jets .The plugs were alot foul resistant in 2 strokes for sure
On a small bike engine with,let’s be fair, a small horsepower figure, there’s never going to be an magical and noticeable gain from a spark plug. It’s either going to work or not. What you’d be better doing is playing around with the timing of the spark and seeing what you lose or gain across your power curve. But if you love that bike and enjoy tinkering, drop in a larger lump. 👍
Good info dude! Now do research on indexing spark plugs. If you index them, you'll get the electrode facing directly at the fuel air mix when it enters the engine making even more power
If I had that xr100 and was desperate for more power I'd sell it and get the 400 as a step up or the 650r which is in my opinion the best enduro I've ever owned wish Honda would make them again
I side gap my 2 stroke lawnmower spark plug, it stops fouling. My nieces husband came for a visit, his car wouldn't start so I removed the plugs, the outer electrode was almost completely burnt off so I gapped what was left re fitted them and it ran.
Mark where the tip of the plug is with an arrow you mark the tip where the wire goes on. Then you put it in and see how far off the arrow is to the exhaust valve.(The open end should face the hotter exhaust valve, making it easier to start the fire. This orientation also protects the plug from fuel wetting caused by a rich air/fuel charge). Then use washers to point the tip of the plug to the exhaust OR intake valve the washers will stop it from turning more and let’s you set where the tip is facing. That’s the best way to do anything to the plug. This is called spark plug indexing which way to point it I would say is preference, it might make a difference engine to engine but pointing it to the exhaust valve is prob the best route. This can make more HP noticeable probably not. It is claimed to get 1% more HP so that’s 5 HP with a 500hp engine. So your say 10HP 100cc will achieve a big hold on so don’t fly off HP gain of .01HP
You can try to advance the cam by 1 tooth or 10 degrees. The stator coil pickup might be able to be modified so you can advance the timing a few degrees
Good answer it's unbelievable just how many people that will talk like they know everything but don't know anything. Reading your comment let me know that they're still ppl who have done it and know what to do.
Hey I give you credit for working on something nobody's knows about but you at least kept trying and didn't give up and that's what matters!! Good 👍 job buddy!!
Keep on trying. Don't stop your curiosity. That's how we keep inventing ,thinking outside the box imagine if we stop after the cave man finished with the stone wheel.😅😅😅 thanks for your time to show the difference it makes just by simply cutting the gap a little at a time .
The only way more spark will give you more power is if you’re dumping more fuel than can burn with original spark. But more fuel can’t burn without more air. The key to horsepower is air. That’s the first thing you need to gain power. Once you get more air in it you can add fuel. And unless you’re dumping a lot more fuel in it I’m sure your original spark can handle it. It is fun to try though lol. Keep at it young man.
I'm no expert but in order to gain power from firing you would have to change your stater and CDI and higher voltage coil. You can buy high performance cdi boxes and they will boost engine performance. I put a high performance cdi on my son's pit bike and it made a world of difference in the throttle response and cruising. It was so much smoother than the factory when I first started it I had to adjust the idle down cause it was idling 6 to 800 rpm more with no fuel change and when you held it at a constant rpm speed it so smooth. Also you can buy offset keyways to advance your timing. Just wanted to share for all the keyboard warriors saying that spark won't help performance clearly never set the timing on a small block or anything for that matter. Timing and spark are very important you could have the biggest baddest built engine in the world with the biggest fuel system but without proper timing and spark you have the worst performing engine. Also if you want better spark don't cut your plugs just go to the Auto parts store and get the hottest spark plug you can get in that size which will more than likely be a ngk or E3. The E3's are great plugs I noticed smoother engine idle etc with them especially in 2 strokes.
For you to get anything from the plug if you got more consistent spark you would need to alter the gas and air mix because it most probably running lean and the plug is burning it up quickly and if that helps but doesn't solve problem change jets size for more fuel
Just buy a quad-lead spark plug...it has 4 "arms" and a central electrode. 4 directions of spark possible, all aimed at the side. It wears out MUCH slower and has great results! Iridium is also a good option!
There are some simple ways to get almost free power and increase compression ratio slightly. Assuming you're not replacing the pistons, you can send the cylinder head to a machine shop to be milled flat. I'd suggest milling between 0.1 to 0.3mm, which will give good results without being too aggressive. Then, try to improve air intake as much as possible. You might need to port the intake or enlarge the intake valves, which will have a noticeable effect. Finally, investing in a carburetor is definitely worth it. If you're currently using a CV/CVK carburetor, it's time to switch to a flat carburetor. All of these can be done without changing the engine itself, making it almost free power in my view.
I did this with a half clapped out plug on my Stihl backpack blower the other day and no shit..... Starts quicker every damn time now. One pull, always.
how about... stronger fuel pump, better and more powerfull injectors (better spray), better RAM intake AND better electricity? A better ( bigger ) spark will help igniting cleaner i guess. so maybe.. instead of cutting the spark plug, he could bend the sparkplug so the metal part stands up more. So the spark needs to travel further and deeper into the engine.
@@Satori-Automotivetheres no fuel pump or injectors or short ram (seems like you are talking about cars) however he could get a bell intake or velocity stack for the carb. He could get a racing version of his ignition coil, maybe racing CDI, spitfire cable and one of those iridium spark plugs which give a "laser beam" spark. More air and fuel will give more power so a cleaner flowing exhaust and exhaust tube with the power bomb thing would be nice. As well as bigger valves and head porting. He could also raise the compression ratio. Edit: custom camshaft with more opening and overlap would yield results and he could also mess with spark timing and carb tuning
It can make more power, if it burns more of the air/fuel.. no engine burns 100% but the closer you get the better. More burned fuel = more power. But most likely not enough to worry about.
if youre that needy for more power, then port match intake port to throttle body, and exhaust port to headers, and spen 10 bucks on iridium spark plugs. edit, fix your damn compression!! youll get that 10 hp by fixing your damn motor
Find your high speed best mixture by getting some jets that are a little bigger and a little smaller than what you have stock. With no other mods on the bike tuning the carb will be best bet. Do the high speed tuning to determine jet size at full rpm. I will assume you need a smaller jet than what you currently have. Then set that needle up a position at a time until your revving from idle on up is the quickest it can be, ie, no bog. Do this and you will be surprised I think. Maybe after getting good air fuel ratios you can play with modded plugs. Good luck!
Guys don’t do dumb shit with your spark plug, you only have 1 of 2 things, normal combustion and abnormal combustion If you have a problem then modifying a spark plug will not solve the problem An electrical engineer figured this out and TH-cam can’t make it better, if this mattered NGK would just make this plug and sell it to you BTW did you notice the spark jumping to ground without crossing the gap first, this plug has a carbon track on the porcelain which is likely the problem
Another youtube idea to "fix" a problem that doesn't exist. The spark "dancing around" is a product of the method used for "testing" and not an issue in the real world, but you have limited the gap to very fine points on material that will melt or burn pretty quickly. You will end up with more misfiring in short order, and no measurable gain in the short term either.
Most of these comments just prove how arrogantly ignorant most people are.. some are giving “tips” like adjusting fuel, timing, etc. Then the people who miss the point. It’s not a recommendation. It’s a “test” for fun. No claim made, words chose carefully. Not claiming HP gains, or that it’s safe. Don’t do this. In short. Bosch, NGK, Denso, aren’t stupid. They have invested the millions into research. Run the plug your owners manual for YOUR machine, adjusting the Gap if needed based on the owners manual. That’s how you get the most HP. If you are running a 2 stroke, run high octane & use a hotter plug. Most bikes use a OEM 9 or 8. ( BR9ES for example) if you use a BR8ES instead of a 9, it will burn hotter. However that has its own downfalls, and may toast your engine a little sooner.
looking at your spark plug its fooled you need to adjust your mixture also keep the plug standard with the correct gap and also your carb is junk because the carb has the choke butterfly in the way at the rear that stops power chuck in bin by a cheap molkt brill carb that will fit and finaly change your sprocket up a tooth for higher top end 1 tooth less for more acceleration but less top end , you got to get the combos right .
For more power on the wheels you have to change the bike with bigger cc . No need to think about small modified thinks . It will not work . Other bike like competition models will please your demands :) Best regards ! :)
if you wanna increase power or torque to be more correct you gotta either decrease the size of rear wheel gear (speed will be lower+rpm would be higher but higher torque) or increase the cylinder capacity(new sleeve or cylinder +bigger diameter piston+ taller connecting rod) you will also increase compression ratio by that , also advancing the ignition timing would yield stronger combustion also using digital twin spark ignition or use head with 4 valves two for intake and two for exhaust or larger cams that make valve open deeper you can also install a turbo which will increase the amount of air and fuel entering the combustion chamber or use a bike with fuel injector cause it more precise and better at vaporizing fuel cause (only vapor can interact with o2 to make the combustion reaction) i gave you a lot of options that what i recall and im just hobbyist but autistic one so maybe what i say is theoretical
Don’t do what he does he doesn’t know much about bikes he like to ride them cause now he sending bad advice to people that don’t know a lot about bikes there is more ways to add hps to your bike without touching the plug
You have a high compression race bike his is a low compression trail bike yours has little room for error his has a lot that’s a very short explanation or your issue could be completely unrelated so idk your loss I geuss 😢
What happened is you decided to listen to someone who experiments bikes to see what happens! You just wanted power not an experiment so this being said you should ask how to add horsepower properly not do dumb things that cost you! Good luck rebuilding your bike!
I’m sure that if there was going to be any real difference the manufacturers would make them different? They’re the ones who spent the big bucks ensuring they get the best spark out of their plugs! Well that’s what I want to believe anyway…
Better keep it cleaner than a surgeons scalpel with that tiny point of contact or you will get miss fire alot guys they aren't as reliable long term obviously
Also 10 more hp that's mental you won't be able to tell you have done this like saying if you leave your phone at home those weight savings will increase power too weight ratio and you will do power wheelies on your 125cc with ease
Also 1 more thing this is bloody dangerous the size of the gap increases the voltage needed too fire and the time to build that spark alters pre ignition will destroy your engine and later firing will remove hp
I dont think cutting a plug does do anything. As long as the fuel gets ignited on time the power pushing the piston down doesnt have anything to do with the spark.
You can not go off that video they were using a plug tester with WAY more power that any bike ignition could ever produce, run the right plug with the right gap and leave it alone.
I could not bear to watch at 4:17 all the muck around the open spark plug hole ready to drop right into the cylinder...use compressed air or a soft brush to clean that area before removing plug, please!.
If your desperate for more power, and willing to possibly sack your topend. Tweak the pick up sensor mounted on the case and shift it a degree or 2 counter clockwise. I may blow you bike up if your running 87 octane fuel out of the pump. Get fresh 91 but only fill up your gas can after filling you car. About a gallon of 87 will probably sitting in the fuel hose on the gas pump.
91 in a low compression air cooled engine, what a waste. moving the sensor with 91 works better than not moving the sensor with 91 is because 91 burns slower than 87 so needs the spark to happen sooner for proper fuel burn. using high octane fuel in engines that dont need it will only help empty your wallet faster
@@bjorn1583 What your saying is wrong. All because it's air cooled, it's all the more reason to run higher octane. Your forgetting what actually matters, heat. Air cooled motor run far hotter than anything liquid cooled motor. Higher octane fuel has a higher flash point than regular 87. When you're advancing the timing, the motor is going to detonate with cheap fuel. Your just asking to blow up a bike.
@@bjorn1583 and you misread my comment is seems. I'm TELLING him to move the sensor. Not just run 91. You're not really making a point here. You sort of talking out of you A$$
@@ncopp4358 ALL air cooled engines run on low octane fuel for a reason and high compression is what causes low octane fuel to detonate not the timing. I didnt misread your comment but your comment showed you dont know what your talking about and your reply proves 100% without a doubt you dont have a clue on what you are talking about. and you say I'm talking out my a$$, your a joke and always will be and your uneducated comments prove it
Rather go with a multi point spark plug, the gap should be something you don't mess with, just because of that, there are plenty of ways to gain hp and this isn't one of them...
Take a bottle put fuel in the bottom so it’s filled with fumes Put any spark in there Kaboom dude The size of the spark matters not the engine specs are where the power comes from. It’s measured Dancing moving around lolol that makes more horsepower lol
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Idk why people write so much hate to you. I have a 50cc and I am just like you, I like trying homemade things to make my moped better. I love your videos!
Mess with the carb a little bit. That screw on the side where you can change the idle, idle up a tad and try that
I agree but its fun watching this experiments :)
Side gapping is used in Racing . High Fuel Ratios and High temperatures .
Side gap plugs dissipate heat from themselves quicker to avoid overheating and Melting the Electrodes .
The Plugs do NOT make more Power . Even a High-end MSD ignition doesn't . What happens is MISFIRES are eliminated .
This is not facts. I side gapped and indexed spark plugs on a sr20det on 18psi and it made 7WHP on a dyno over non side gapped and indexed spark plugs. Sr20 also gained 3-4mpg more over standard plugs.
@@thatnissanchannel5410 . EVERYTHING you just said there AGREES with what I said .
It is NOT the Plugs that intrinsically produce more Power however , it IS the increased Ignition EFFICIENCY in a Boosted Engine which WILL be using a Rich Fuel Mix .
Especially on a DYNO RUN .
THINK prior to speak please .
Changing the gear ratio is the best and easiest way to make a small cc bike feel more powerful.
sprocket change is the way
For all the comments putting down his testing. This is simply some of the ways you get in the fast lane. Test and trail. If you don't like it just stay over there in the slow lane👍
why cut it just open the gap more
@@CravenMoorhead-r2y because it fires more when it's off to the side, and it let's the fire hit the fuel better when it's not being covered.
Side spark in racing has nothing to do with the ground terminal blocking the combustion. When the spark "dances" it changes length and there fore temp. Racing calls for consistency of high performance precision at the cost of longevity. You electrode and ground post are going to concentrate all of the wear in one "laser" spot increasing gap wear quickly out of optimal range. Not an issue if you change them after every race.
Well put, I was in mechanics for years, now retired. But, the way you explained how the spark, can ignite the fuel
quicker, makes perfect sense !!! The quicker the burn, the more force is gained. Excellent. 👍
PS, put a very small bit of Coper-ease on your Plug threads, this saves wear on the Alloy threads!
I learnt 40 years ago to never use any copper based compound with aluminium, in my opinion and as it happens the opinion of the guy who developed it it has become one of the most overrated and misused products ever put out there. Most metals are sacrificial to copper most especially aluminium which in many circumstances will corrode rapidly in its presence it should also never be used to lubricate anything that moves.
the steady spark is because it connects the closest points. with the original the surfaces are parallel and spark can form anywhere between the parallel surfaces but will have the same power every time. With the side gap the location of the spark is constant and will wear the side of the electrode then the gap will increase. It is possible the flame will travel slightly better because it can spread in all directions initially but hard to tell if it helps without clear tests
many years ago I had a single cylinder 185 suzuki 2 stroke that had 2 spark plugs in the head so if one fouled you could swap the lead to the other one for a fresh plug. But what I did was add another coil & lead to the second plug so both were firing & it made a huge difference way more low down power & always started so easy.
Not sure if you know this but the second sparkplug hole was originally for a decompression for easier start then it was found they didn't really need it so it was used as a spare plug,interesting how you hooked both up though that's pretty cool.
I did the same with a 500 Enfield! Removed decompression and fitted another plug,being that the thread profiles were identical. Fitted a dual output coil,ported the head and inlet,re jetted the carb and fitted a much less restrictive silencer. Gained a little in power,but the improvement in throttle response was huge. Made for a much sweeter and enjoyable ride.
@@g.g.6362 You would actually think it should cause knocking, as the wave front starts in 2 places at once. Maybe the oil in 2 stroke & the lower compression of worn engines.
My 73' Yamaha dt250 has two plugs with one lead from the coil. It's tuned just right 👌🏽 and I've maintained it properly, I've never even had to use the extra plug... Not once.
@@troymoszer Try adding an extra coil & lead to the second plug, to see if you get the extra mid range power & better starts I got when I did it.
I've been grinding my spark plugs since the 1960s, except the Iridium plugs. [Dodge D-50 2.6 5 spd.]
I VASCAR tested 1/8 mile of 3 runs (averaged) & went from 14.25 to 13.75 seconds. My mpg's also went up.
Granted it's a sort-a small amount but it cost ZERO. __ CHEERS 😉
Please share exactly what you did?
Pity you didn`t make your own video instead of this mistake
Different spark plug gaps subtlety alter the timing of the spark. And different timing affects power output. That's a fact.
leave the spark plug alone, if the bike is not meant to have side spark spark plugs then there is a chance the engine will run hotter and you will burn your valves just like running a lean tune
Buddy this bike has ran on straight octane booster he’s trying to kill it
How would you burn a valve in a 2 stroke? Asking for a friend 😅
@@5tevenH thats a 4t i think
Stay in the slow lane bro. Cuz this some of the ways you get in the fast lane
@@5tevenH most 2 strokes have valves plus it sounded like a 4 stroke
The ignition has to be able to create the spark longer too. I used side gapped plugs in 2 stroke engines turning 20,000 rpm. But the pumper carbs had externally adjustable low and high speed jets .The plugs were alot foul resistant in 2 strokes for sure
On a small bike engine with,let’s be fair, a small horsepower figure, there’s never going to be an magical and noticeable gain from a spark plug. It’s either going to work or not. What you’d be better doing is playing around with the timing of the spark and seeing what you lose or gain across your power curve. But if you love that bike and enjoy tinkering, drop in a larger lump. 👍
Good info dude! Now do research on indexing spark plugs. If you index them, you'll get the electrode facing directly at the fuel air mix when it enters the engine making even more power
They prob side gapped plugs too run shit loads more fuel without fouling plugs guessing
David Vizard covered this topic in a video as well as writing about it in one of the books he has written.
There are weird spark plugs out there like Brisk, that one doesn't have a hook. I tried it and it works like a spark plug.
You should make a double tip/ gap spark plug and see if it's better
Did this 30 years ago on my racecar.
Worked pretty good.
If I had that xr100 and was desperate for more power I'd sell it and get the 400 as a step up or the 650r which is in my opinion the best enduro I've ever owned wish Honda would make them again
i agree. even a 200 would be a world of difference
Loved my XR 650 sorry i sold it but needed to to buy a car to ferry the kids around in
I side gap my 2 stroke lawnmower spark plug, it stops fouling. My nieces husband came for a visit, his car wouldn't start so I removed the plugs, the outer electrode was almost completely burnt off so I gapped what was left re fitted them and it ran.
I did this to my 1977 Goldwing but only a small cut off not large. on the 4 plugs. Superb it runs way better
love you vids zoomin' ❤
Mark where the tip of the plug is with an arrow you mark the tip where the wire goes on. Then you put it in and see how far off the arrow is to the exhaust valve.(The open end should face the hotter exhaust valve, making it easier to start the fire. This orientation also protects the plug from fuel wetting caused by a rich air/fuel charge). Then use washers to point the tip of the plug to the exhaust OR intake valve the washers will stop it from turning more and let’s you set where the tip is facing. That’s the best way to do anything to the plug. This is called spark plug indexing which way to point it I would say is preference, it might make a difference engine to engine but pointing it to the exhaust valve is prob the best route. This can make more HP noticeable probably not. It is claimed to get 1% more HP so that’s 5 HP with a 500hp engine. So your say 10HP 100cc will achieve a big hold on so don’t fly off HP gain of .01HP
You can try to advance the cam by 1 tooth or 10 degrees. The stator coil pickup might be able to be modified so you can advance the timing a few degrees
Good answer it's unbelievable just how many people that will talk like they know everything but don't know anything. Reading your comment let me know that they're still ppl who have done it and know what to do.
Was going to suggest the same thing!
Then you lose your bottom end torque
Mazda rotary engines use a triple ground. I have felt a change in performance using those years ago. They are more of a side shooter.
Hey I give you credit for working on something nobody's knows about but you at least kept trying and didn't give up and that's what matters!! Good 👍 job buddy!!
Keep on trying. Don't stop your curiosity. That's how we keep inventing ,thinking outside the box imagine if we stop after the cave man finished with the stone wheel.😅😅😅 thanks for your time to show the difference it makes just by simply cutting the gap a little at a time .
Too small of a motor to notice any power gains using the butt dyno. Sounds like it ran good though. Cool vid...👍
Mercury boat, spark plug is what you need
Lov your vids
The only way more spark will give you more power is if you’re dumping more fuel than can burn with original spark. But more fuel can’t burn without more air.
The key to horsepower is air. That’s the first thing you need to gain power. Once you get more air in it you can add fuel. And unless you’re dumping a lot more fuel in it I’m sure your original spark can handle it. It is fun to try though lol. Keep at it young man.
I'm no expert but in order to gain power from firing you would have to change your stater and CDI and higher voltage coil. You can buy high performance cdi boxes and they will boost engine performance. I put a high performance cdi on my son's pit bike and it made a world of difference in the throttle response and cruising. It was so much smoother than the factory when I first started it I had to adjust the idle down cause it was idling 6 to 800 rpm more with no fuel change and when you held it at a constant rpm speed it so smooth. Also you can buy offset keyways to advance your timing. Just wanted to share for all the keyboard warriors saying that spark won't help performance clearly never set the timing on a small block or anything for that matter. Timing and spark are very important you could have the biggest baddest built engine in the world with the biggest fuel system but without proper timing and spark you have the worst performing engine. Also if you want better spark don't cut your plugs just go to the Auto parts store and get the hottest spark plug you can get in that size which will more than likely be a ngk or E3. The E3's are great plugs I noticed smoother engine idle etc with them especially in 2 strokes.
For you to get anything from the plug if you got more consistent spark
you would need to alter the gas and air mix because it most probably running lean and the plug is burning it up quickly and if that helps but doesn't solve problem change jets size for more fuel
In our 1000 HP BBC, we closed the gap to about .025"...
Just buy a quad-lead spark plug...it has 4 "arms" and a central electrode.
4 directions of spark possible, all aimed at the side.
It wears out MUCH slower and has great results!
Iridium is also a good option!
Iridium is a good option but quad lead is not optimal
8 minuets of your life gone for this.
There are some simple ways to get almost free power and increase compression ratio slightly. Assuming you're not replacing the pistons, you can send the cylinder head to a machine shop to be milled flat. I'd suggest milling between 0.1 to 0.3mm, which will give good results without being too aggressive. Then, try to improve air intake as much as possible. You might need to port the intake or enlarge the intake valves, which will have a noticeable effect. Finally, investing in a carburetor is definitely worth it. If you're currently using a CV/CVK carburetor, it's time to switch to a flat carburetor. All of these can be done without changing the engine itself, making it almost free power in my view.
Try drilling a hole in flap PC over the electrode.
Do u index ur plugs?
45° cut is ideal . Can not rEcall if it's right or left .
Put a iridium (good Ngk) and see the difference in perfomance.
Now you have to retune the carburetor to the plug
I did this with a half clapped out plug on my Stihl backpack blower the other day and no shit..... Starts quicker every damn time now. One pull, always.
cut the washer off plug, increases compresion slightly as more plug pokes thru into cylinder
Bro you just CANT get more power by increasing the Electricity! You need MORE Fuel and MORE oxygen! NOT ELECTRICITY
how about... stronger fuel pump, better and more powerfull injectors (better spray), better RAM intake AND better electricity? A better ( bigger ) spark will help igniting cleaner i guess.
so maybe.. instead of cutting the spark plug, he could bend the sparkplug so the metal part stands up more. So the spark needs to travel further and deeper into the engine.
@@Satori-Automotive I disagree my friend
@@Satori-Automotivetheres no fuel pump or injectors or short ram (seems like you are talking about cars) however he could get a bell intake or velocity stack for the carb. He could get a racing version of his ignition coil, maybe racing CDI, spitfire cable and one of those iridium spark plugs which give a "laser beam" spark. More air and fuel will give more power so a cleaner flowing exhaust and exhaust tube with the power bomb thing would be nice. As well as bigger valves and head porting. He could also raise the compression ratio.
Edit: custom camshaft with more opening and overlap would yield results and he could also mess with spark timing and carb tuning
@@Satori-Automotivebetter ram? 16gb of ddr4?
It can make more power, if it burns more of the air/fuel.. no engine burns 100% but the closer you get the better.
More burned fuel = more power.
But most likely not enough to worry about.
if youre that needy for more power, then port match intake port to throttle body, and exhaust port to headers, and spen 10 bucks on iridium spark plugs.
edit, fix your damn compression!! youll get that 10 hp by fixing your damn motor
I've raced bike's for 24 years and I've never side gab a plug neither has anyone in racing. Just buy a new genuine plug.
Find your high speed best mixture by getting some jets that are a little bigger and a little smaller than what you have stock. With no other mods on the bike tuning the carb will be best bet. Do the high speed tuning to determine jet size at full rpm. I will assume you need a smaller jet than what you currently have. Then set that needle up a position at a time until your revving from idle on up is the quickest it can be, ie, no bog. Do this and you will be surprised I think. Maybe after getting good air fuel ratios you can play with modded plugs. Good luck!
Guys don’t do dumb shit with your spark plug, you only have 1 of 2 things, normal combustion and abnormal combustion
If you have a problem then modifying a spark plug will not solve the problem
An electrical engineer figured this out and TH-cam can’t make it better, if this mattered NGK would just make this plug and sell it to you
BTW did you notice the spark jumping to ground without crossing the gap first, this plug has a carbon track on the porcelain which is likely the problem
Another youtube idea to "fix" a problem that doesn't exist. The spark "dancing around" is a product of the method used for "testing" and not an issue in the real world, but you have limited the gap to very fine points on material that will melt or burn pretty quickly. You will end up with more misfiring in short order, and no measurable gain in the short term either.
now if you paint the plugs bright pink and put some plastic over the electrode a tank of petrol will last forever
Most of these comments just prove how arrogantly ignorant most people are..
some are giving “tips” like adjusting fuel, timing, etc. Then the people who miss the point. It’s not a recommendation. It’s a “test” for fun. No claim made, words chose carefully. Not claiming HP gains, or that it’s safe.
Don’t do this.
In short.
Bosch, NGK, Denso, aren’t stupid. They have invested the millions into research.
Run the plug your owners manual for YOUR machine, adjusting the Gap if needed based on the owners manual.
That’s how you get the most HP.
If you are running a 2 stroke, run high octane & use a hotter plug. Most bikes use a OEM 9 or 8. ( BR9ES for example) if you use a BR8ES instead of a 9, it will burn hotter. However that has its own downfalls, and may toast your engine a little sooner.
If you want more power, get better exhaust flow better air flow into the engine and more fuel, bigger exhaust, bigger carb for starters
looking at your spark plug its fooled you need to adjust your mixture also keep the plug standard with the correct gap and also your carb is junk because the carb has the choke butterfly in the way at the rear that stops power chuck in bin by a cheap molkt brill carb that will fit and finaly change your sprocket up a tooth for higher top end 1 tooth less for more acceleration but less top end , you got to get the combos right .
This was a performance mod for v8 performance engines in the 80's
put a 28mm carburetor and put a 17 teeth primary sprocket and you will Rock 🎉
Your spark plug modification made the bike greased slightly. Holy cow can barely see it
Just use a twin pointed sparkplug like Denso TT. They won't let the spark dance at the edge and destroy it.
I'd like to see the video where he's replacing his valves hahaha
I hope he never takes off his helmet
roger that
You can only bend the side electrode so many times before it falls off...leave the ground electrode alone !!
Angle plug heads, along with indexing..
For more power on the wheels you have to change the bike with bigger cc . No need to think about small modified thinks . It will not work . Other bike like competition models will please your demands :) Best regards ! :)
if you wanna increase power or torque to be more correct you gotta either decrease the size of rear wheel gear (speed will be lower+rpm would be higher but higher torque) or increase the cylinder capacity(new sleeve or cylinder +bigger diameter piston+ taller connecting rod) you will also increase compression ratio by that , also advancing the ignition timing would yield stronger combustion also using digital twin spark ignition or use head with 4 valves two for intake and two for exhaust or larger cams that make valve open deeper you can also install a turbo which will increase the amount of air and fuel entering the combustion chamber or use a bike with fuel injector cause it more precise and better at vaporizing fuel cause (only vapor can interact with o2 to make the combustion reaction) i gave you a lot of options that what i recall and im just hobbyist but autistic one so maybe what i say is theoretical
Turn the idle up on the bike bro
Winding the idle screw in will lean out air fuel mix ,Better of rich on idle so don't lean out on Deceleration.
I gotta try this on my 30cc 2 stroke
Hey man I watched your video and did this and now my bike is siezed.. what happened bruh
Can’t believe everything you see dummy 😂😂
Did you not see that it wasn’t working for him? Yall are stupid asf
Don’t do what he does he doesn’t know much about bikes he like to ride them cause now he sending bad advice to people that don’t know a lot about bikes there is more ways to add hps to your bike without touching the plug
You have a high compression race bike his is a low compression trail bike yours has little room for error his has a lot that’s a very short explanation or your issue could be completely unrelated so idk your loss I geuss 😢
What happened is you decided to listen to someone who experiments bikes to see what happens! You just wanted power not an experiment so this being said you should ask how to add horsepower properly not do dumb things that cost you! Good luck rebuilding your bike!
I’m sure that if there was going to be any real difference the manufacturers would make them different? They’re the ones who spent the big bucks ensuring they get the best spark out of their plugs! Well that’s what I want to believe anyway…
Better keep it cleaner than a surgeons scalpel with that tiny point of contact or you will get miss fire alot guys they aren't as reliable long term obviously
Also 10 more hp that's mental you won't be able to tell you have done this like saying if you leave your phone at home those weight savings will increase power too weight ratio and you will do power wheelies on your 125cc with ease
Also 1 more thing this is bloody dangerous the size of the gap increases the voltage needed too fire and the time to build that spark alters pre ignition will destroy your engine and later firing will remove hp
Thanks darth vader 💀
I dont think cutting a plug does do anything. As long as the fuel gets ignited on time the power pushing the piston down doesnt have anything to do with the spark.
You can not go off that video they were using a plug tester with WAY more power that any bike ignition could ever produce, run the right plug with the right gap and leave it alone.
Run crude oil in your bike
ya lets see it
It would simply blow
@@ncopp4358 never know with the old hondas lol and it would be funny
I could not bear to watch at 4:17 all the muck around the open spark plug hole ready to drop right into the cylinder...use compressed air or a soft brush to clean that area before removing plug, please!.
Just low on blinker fluid" 😂
where do ya live ? my buddy has a motorcycle dyno
Side gap a triple arc one or a quadruple arc spark plug 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Hello great video! Next time please - just run right into the camera for cooler effects.. I was waiting for it to happen, but nothing..
lol
smaller area=faster erosion.
4:29 if you can start it like that, don't mind about your spark.
Buy a 450 call it a day
The whole rationale here seems to be nothing more than supposition but with no proof, sounds ropey to me
If your desperate for more power, and willing to possibly sack your topend. Tweak the pick up sensor mounted on the case and shift it a degree or 2 counter clockwise. I may blow you bike up if your running 87 octane fuel out of the pump. Get fresh 91 but only fill up your gas can after filling you car. About a gallon of 87 will probably sitting in the fuel hose on the gas pump.
91 in a low compression air cooled engine, what a waste.
moving the sensor with 91 works better than not moving the sensor with 91 is because 91 burns slower than 87 so needs the spark to happen sooner for proper fuel burn.
using high octane fuel in engines that dont need it will only help empty your wallet faster
@@bjorn1583 What your saying is wrong. All because it's air cooled, it's all the more reason to run higher octane. Your forgetting what actually matters, heat. Air cooled motor run far hotter than anything liquid cooled motor. Higher octane fuel has a higher flash point than regular 87. When you're advancing the timing, the motor is going to detonate with cheap fuel. Your just asking to blow up a bike.
@@bjorn1583 and you misread my comment is seems. I'm TELLING him to move the sensor. Not just run 91.
You're not really making a point here. You sort of talking out of you A$$
@@ncopp4358 ALL air cooled engines run on low octane fuel for a reason and high compression is what causes low octane fuel to detonate not the timing.
I didnt misread your comment but your comment showed you dont know what your talking about and your reply proves 100% without a doubt you dont have a clue on what you are talking about.
and you say I'm talking out my a$$, your a joke and always will be and your uneducated comments prove it
@@ncopp4358 telling a transport engineer he's talking out his a$$ when everything you have said is completely wrong, your a joke
The plug looks pretty dark. Try leaning it out a bit.
The cut should be aligned to thr perimeter of the positive terminal and the gap shouls measure1.0 enjoy
Kid feathering that clutch or power shifting
Powershifting
Kind of the same thing but rpm gotta be right on every shift
He going to have to put clutches in that after all that slipping while shifting
W vid
ehh not the best
Rather go with a multi point spark plug, the gap should be something you don't mess with, just because of that, there are plenty of ways to gain hp and this isn't one of them...
this was not a lame video
Hope you don't melt your piston.
If it were that simple to get extra BHP for nothing, you don't think the big 4 bike manufactures would of done this years ago?
Try putting a clip on ferrite choke on your lead .
If an engine was meant to have a side gap plug it would have been designed for it.
agreed. dont you love when people think they can improve over all the engineers that built something.
@@joshuawray5917the bike is his test subject
Put iridium plug in it for more power
If I applied this to a car what would happen
Take a bottle put fuel in the bottom so it’s filled with fumes
Put any spark in there Kaboom dude
The size of the spark matters not the engine specs are where the power comes from. It’s measured
Dancing moving around lolol that makes more horsepower
lol
Spark plug will not give you more power, it can only increase response and fuel efficiency but not more engine power .
Keep.
The gap to spec or you will start frying electronics
Put some shinko 705’s on the katana and rip it off-road
RIP piston.