Hey Matt, here's the answer regarding your question about pressure change of the tire when it's loaded versus unloaded. Since there's not a whole lot of energy change in the system (unloaded vs loaded) the gas in the tire can be modeled using the ideal gas law. This law states that PV=nRT (P=pressure, V=volume, n=number of moles of gas, T=temperature). Since the amount of gas and temperature does not change in either state, the equation can be simplified to P1V1=P2V2 -> P2=P1V1/V2 (the 1s and 2s represent the unloaded and loaded states respectively). So to answer your question, yes the pressure does increase in the tire when it is loaded. However, that pressure change is proportional to the deformation in the tire. So if there's not a whole lot of deformation, there's not a whole lot of pressure change.
I worked at a full service station fo 10 plus years and we plugged tires of all kinds but we alway used the real rubber plugs and dip them in rubber vulcanizing cement and then inserted them. The rubber cement makes the go in like butter and bond to the rubber.
Suggestion mate. I have made a padded board which sits against the drivers seat, and with a stick applies pressure to the brake pedal. Works great and makes it really safe to break the wheel nut free. Also, remember to break it downwards so that you don't lift the car off the jack, or pull the car off the jack forward or back. But seriously consider making a foam clad board with a pole that wedges in between seat and pedal, it will be the best thing you'll ever make for it.
Answer: The amount of pressure change is essentially undetectable with a standard gauge. Although the contact patch flattens, the sidewall bulges out creating nearly the same volume and no significant change in pressure. If an outside force could squeeze the tire throughout its entire circumference, you would see a pressure increase.
Yup, what he said. The pressure is being applied all around the tire in all directions keeping the pressure difference undetectable by a standard tire air pressure gauge. Ive been driving Porsche's for more than 30 years and have plugged a few tires as well. Never had a problem.
Hi Matt. Reference your question about tyre pressure. On the side of the tyre it states the maximum pressure the tyre can withstand running at maximum speed (which equates to maximum temperature the tyre can withstand ) The tyre pressure you set inside the tyre stays the same regardless of what load is applied to the tyre (for example 32psi means there is 32 pounds of pressure on every square inch of the tyre pushing outwards to keep the tyre in shape) Once set the only way the pressure will change is by an increase in heat (pressure increases), excessive heat reduction (pressure decreases) or a puncture. The tyre pressures for the car are calculated by working out what pressure is required to make the tyre tread sit flat on the ground while holding the weight of the car. That's why tyre pressure values vary from car to car even though the tyre is the same size. For example if the tyre pressures are too low you will see excessive wear on the inner and outer edges of the tyre. If the pressures are too high you will see excessive wear on the middle section of the tyre. With regards to your puncture repair you did here in the UK it is illegal for a tyre to be repaired from the outside of the tyre unless the top speed of the vehicle is 20mph or lower. Repairs for vehicles that can go over 20mph have to be repaired from the inside only using a patch/plug combination that looks like a mushroom. This is so the whole damaged area is sealed so that moisture doesn't get into the construction of the tyre which could cause the tyre to distort & possibly blow out. Its amazing in this modern world how there are so many variations in ideas when it comes to one subject be it tyres or detailing. I hope I've managed to clarify tyre pressures for you. There is a lot more that can be said on the subject like you can accurately set the tyre pressures for your car using only a tape measure as long as you have the right information to hand but I I'll leave that thought here. I bet you're thinking how right now? 😁
Everyone in this comment section is a "keyboard mechanic" a tire plug will work just fine. I have patched and plugged tires in the past they both work. I am sure Matt is going to replace those tires eventually anyway. Dealerships and tire shops are in the business of selling tires. Of course they are going to tell you it is not "correct" to plug. More power to you Matt for showing this, and getting the triggered squad all over this video.
I remember years back the tire stores would readily patch a tire. Now days if they fall right near the shoulder and some distance near it they won't touch the tire. They say that's a critical area that shouldn't be patched. After twice having to replace tires with less than 3000 miles on them due to their criteria, I now just plug it on my own. It has worked out fine for me for the past several years. No problems what so ever. I've driven the tires until it was time for replacement for my cars that had a plug in a tire.
Way too much criticism in the comments. There is nothing wrong with plugging a tire. It’s not rocket science, it’s a plug. Doesn’t change anything. I guarantee most of these people commenting negative comments have never plugged a tire in their life or even worked on their car for that matter.
So since I couldn't find anyone to answer your question about the tire pressure, I'll answer it. No, pressure will not change with the car in the air or on the ground. Don't ask me why, but it doesn't. The sticker in the door jamb just tells you what the manufacturer recommends for pressure at "cold" temperature. So not driven for more than a mile after a few hours. I personally go between 1 and 2 psi over the manufacturer specification, then again I live in New England so the outside temperature fluctuates so much. But anyway, you are still good setting them to the 32 psi Porsche. FYI I work for Toyota as a tech. Love your videos Matt! Keep em clean!
Man Matt no one can ever say that your channel is not honest and transparent, cause you take a beating on these videos yet keep plugging along lol That makes following your success that much more enjoyable. And glad to read you picked up a new heavy duty plug kit those things are legit.
Yeah, I know what people are going to say about doing stuff like this. I think it's because I live in a very logical way, that I don't get hung up on the stuff that others do. Living in reality rather than making up stories seems to be working for me.
Plugs work well and good ones won’t leak, as long as it’s away from the sidewall. I work at an Audi dealer and the ones we use never come back. I don’t know what Porsche says about their cars but the ones we won’t patch are R8’s for liability reasons. (Tend to be driven harder and race tracks don’t allow patches)
Matt, with all the expertise you provide on your channel, this was clearly a "how-not-to" video, and I dont mean the plugs. Please read this for constructive criticism and some advice.First off your inner instinct should have told you to engage the parking brake for safety, then It would have been also possible to break the centerlock in the air withount lowering the jack back-whatever the reason to do it this way. I believe this idea is aplicable when you use an impact wrench which can take off the lock in a split second-then you need to have the car raised so that it doesn"t collapse when the rim slides off the guides.Otherwise,with handheld bar and slow turning it should be perfectly ok to loosen when lowerd,just like you willy-nilly did in the end. Also, next time you have something that looks like a screw in your tyre, try just unscrewing it-much easier than pulling :) this one was grinded from the top so screwdriver wouldn’t have helped, but you could just grab it from the top with flat eneded pliers and turn. Hope that helps!
Everyone like if you plug your tire regardless of how much money you have or how much you car cost! I give props to this guy for working on his own car!!!!
Matt ,you are perfectly fine with a plug ,on my old gtr I had to put a plug in a almost brand new rear runflat dunlop ,went 12k miles with a lot of roll and dig racing without any issues, however I always drill the hole with a drill bit and before inserting the actual plug I'd light it on fire with a lighter and then push it in immediately - it seals better than ever .( guy who does tires for the past 40 years told me that trick with the lighter)
I personally use the Stop&Go tire plugger. I'm not sure if they're any better than what you're using, but the mushroom shape gives me a little more confidence in the plug...
Great video Matt, gave me the cojones to plug my next leak ( should I get one), on my P90DL instead of replacing the rear 265/35 21 Pilot, like I did the last time. The less foreign hands that touch my car the less chance of things going wrong! We outsource everything instead of trying to do the work ourselves. I applaud and aspire to your work-ethic.
On the subject of tyre pressure, when you load the tyre the volume wouldn't appreciably change. Imagine the tyre as an annulus in 2D for simplicity. With the car off the ground and tyres at pressure the two circles of the annulus are concentric. When the car gets put on the ground the tyre 'flattens' a little at the bottom, right? Now imagine these two scenarios and in your mind (or on paper) overlay the first unloaded annulus over the second loaded (flattened at the bottom) annulus. The change in volume (which leads to increased tyre pressure) you're considering is the small space bounded by the outer circle of the unloaded annulus and the flat line (chord) of the loaded annulus (which is the contact patch). I suggest you draw it. Also this considers the tyre deforms elastically only on the bottom surface or contact patch, and doesn't deform 'width-wise'. You could calculate the volume of this by using circle geometry if you measure the approximate length of your contact patch (the chord) and the tyre dimensions. You could then use the unloaded vs. loaded volumes in the ideal gas equation to get a percentage change. Even without doing it I'd bank on it being insignificant, you'd probably see a much bigger difference when considering the effect of temperature. Volume will be small percentage wise, temperatures can range significantly depending on weather and whether the car has been driven and the tyres are warmed up.
Hey Matt, regarding all the haters I see down below, people like you make my experience on the net better. Whether you did it or not in the right way is up to each's interpretation. Yeah even for me, who hasn't dealt with center locks, you looked a bit clumsy but you got the job done and it helped me lol. I just bought 2012 GTS and haven't even picked up the car yet. Exciting!
I got a flat on my 718, the Porsche dealer said they don't patch tires as per company policy. Wanted almost $500 for a new tire when the old one had only 1000 miles on it. So, I went to a local guy down the street and for 40 bucks it's still going strong
Obsessed Garage Yeah, I get it, if in the remote chance something were to happen they'd get sued. Plus, most guys probably would just pay it and feel better about it. For me that extra 500 went towards some nice detailing products
Hi Matt, I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit. The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00). Now the real question. If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer. The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here (1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer. (2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front. Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate? Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Deb
FYI - Best way to insert your plug and improve performance is pour a little rubber cement on it from your repair kit. That way you don't need to go crazy with the awl. You just have to position your hand so that you don't over shoot the hole. As to success, I did tire repair in a gas station in high school (25+ years) and I've used them ever since with NO ISSUES.....
Great video Matt, been doing the same thing for years. Never had a problem with leaking or blowing a plug. Why replace a brand new tire when a patch is perfectly safe.
$200,000+ car, thousands of dollars in detailing products, but won't spend a few hundred for a new tire.. Arguably one of the most important aspect's of a car's performance and safety.
Plugs work. Why have one new tire and three old ones? Plug it til it's time for 4 new ones. If you got a flat everyday or even once a week, when would you stop buying tires and plug them? I'vs had multiple plugs in a tire, never an issue.
Stupid argument. $500 for at tire, and you would probably change both of them if they had some wear... Ever heard of not being stupid with your money? Just because someone got money doesn't mean they should spend it left to right..
Had the same issue on my GT3 but with the aftermarket BBS wheels. Brought the car to Les Schwab, Big O Tires , and Goodyear in the local area but they all decline to patch it because they were afraid the wheel could be scratched in the process. Finally had it taken care of at a independent tire shop but they only offer to plug it.
I know what the manual says but break it on the ground not to a full loop just enough to get it moving otherwise you're fighting your electric parking brake and if it slips you have rotor and Pad damage so does breaking on the ground
So loosening the nut seems tough for you but I do it at least once a week for the track season, just takes some getting used to. With the tire off the ground lift the wrench up using your legs instead of trying to push down with it, way more control. I always had to call my wife out to the garage to stand on the brake (I have a manual 991.2 GT3) but she got tired of that pretty quick so I got a clamp/ spreader bar at Lowes so I'm on my own now. When I started out it was an hour to change 4 now less than 30 minutes.
Nice job. It's quite some work with these center locks but I think it's faster than using like 5 bolts and torque wrench all of them plus one is usually an anti thefts bolt which slows you down a bit. Sometimes the small bolts require a lot of force to remove but I see that these centerlock nuts are so much tighter.
I'd still prefer to have a patch done to repair the inner structure of the tire. Costco offers free repairs for tires (assuming repair is possible) they sell. Came in really handy when my
top for next time you need to do this, the part of the breaker bar or torque wrench that would touch the fender, wrap it with a microfiber towel. that way if you do touch the fender, you're not doing any damage
I’ve plugged my tire still on the car. Just asking why didn’t you just do that since you have jack or a lift. That way you don’t have to take the wheel.
I worked at a tire store for a while and the patch the goes from the inside is garbage, they leak all the time and you have to drill the hole out bigger than the plugs so after a few heat cycles they loose there ability to seal and leak. I recommend getting vulcanizing rubber glue though it melts the plug to the tire and acts as lube when you push the plug in.
Obsessed Garage I didn't see anyone else share this. If so, pardon me. You can spray a soapy water solution on the plug and look for bubbles to check for leaks before reinstalling the wheel. This might save you some work in the future. I hope you and the family have a Merry Christmas!
When you took wheels off on GT3 didn't you need a buddy or the tool to hold the brake when using breaker bar. I'd recheck the torque on the wheels. There was a TSB on this issued by Porsche. Always HAVE to have someone holding the brakes when breaking the wheel lose or u are transferring that torque to the axle and diff.
Hey man, cool video. I just got a gts with centerlocks and the video is helpful. BTW there's nothing wrong with a plug if u do it right. We used to put contact adhesive on the plug. Never had one fail.
Plugs are perfectly fine. Not ideal obviously but if you gotta do it, it’s fine. I’ve plugged a motorcycle tire and rode for the whole life cycle of the tire like that. My bro in law is a motorcycle cop and he’s run several at one time in the same tire for many miles lol.
Matt, I have been watching your channel for years. It's apparent to me that we're clearly cut from the same cloth, obsessed about what we do specific to our cars and enjoying the love for Porsche. However, I have to tell you, I honestly wouldn't feel comfortable with a .50 cent plug in my tire. After all the money you spent on the GT3 RS car including the purchase and the amazing detail job, I would've thought that you would've at least broken down the tire and installed a vulcanized radial patch from the inside. Please be careful as the tire now has lost its speed rating, so, no high-speed passes until you replace. By the way, damn that knock off wheel was tough to break free! I found myself talking to you as you're struggling, ultimately arriving at the same decision, to break it free on the ground. Merry Christmas.
You are suppose to slide the metal part of the center cap tool all the way in and pivot the tool to pop the cap off, don't use it to pull the cap off. That is how they get damaged.
Like your vids so far. I would recommend getting a pneumatic air wrench for your socket (prob 1" drive) as the wheels were designed to be taken off quickly and easily in the pits or in this case your garage. I put a plug kit and small alluminum floor jack in my frunk to handle any plugging on the road if I need it. Haven't had to yet. Also a small spray bottle of soap n water is a useful tool in your frunk to figure out where the leak/ puncture is coming from if it isnt obvious.
you will destroy the CL nut if you use an pneumatic impact wrench. Porsche goes out of their way to tell you not to use air tools on this system. A torque multiplier is an option but absolutely don’t use pneumatic tools on these wheel nuts.
I think almost every plug I've installed, they come with rubber cement and the instructions say to use it for installation. I've used plugs all my life too and never had an issue.
I'm pretty sure I use the same plugs as you but I also have the type with the glue, I then use the glue on your type plug and it works as a great lubricant to insert the rope and you don't have to drill and oversize hole, never had a plug fail.
Man, I envy how easy it is to remove the wheels on a car. It’s an act of congress to get 120 pounds of tires and wheels off of a Jeep. I’m sure Jeeps are far simpler than Porsches though, LOL. Keep it up Matt!
Matt, I'm glad that you changed the tire yourself. I'm with you. If I had no one I trusted with my car I would definitely do it myself. That car is super nice and was not cheap. In about a couple years I am going to get a GT3 RS or a Turbo S. I'm torn between the 2. I really dont go to the track and I know the RS is primarily a track car. If I got an RS I would consider going to the track every so often but not a whole lot. The turbo S is super fast on the streets and in a straight line. I believe it is not bad on the track but not quite as good as the RS. Either way whatever route I decide the car will mainly be driven on the street. I like the look of the RS. It is a little more aggressive and typically has a higher resale value. But the Turbo S is pretty fast. I guess it will come down to my preference, but wanted to see if you had any insight or opinion? Why did you opt for an RS instead of a Turbo S?Keep up the good work!
You'll know if you can get behind the wheel of a Turbo. The is not way to not love a GT3, but it is possible to not love the Turbo. For me, the sound is key.
I've seen many others talk about the loosening of then lock a 1/4 turn once you tighten it and then re-tighten it a final time...what is the reason for this? Cheers
Psi won’t change no matter how much weight you have on the car. 32psi will still be 32psi on or off the car. Plugs are fine to use. I’m sure the RS takes more 32psi. The weight of the motor in the rear requires way more then that.
I break my bolts loose when the wheels barely make contact with the ground. Then almost all the weight is off, but the tire still makes contact for easy breaking loose. I plug my tires as well. Never had an issue.
PQR5CHE That's also the way I do it. You cannot loosen or tighten with a wheel that is still turning around :) Or use an impact wrench (on low torque setting when tightening and then torque it to spec by hand).
Watching him remove the center lock had me on pins and needles. Was worried that the breakerbar action would slip and would end up banging against the fender, throwing Matt off balance and into the jack, knocking the handle back and springing forward into the side of the car smashing a window.
Maybe it's just for your own sanity, but after dynamically torquing the wheel (or any other fastener as a matter of fact) rechecking with the torque wrench without turning the fastener will always cause the torque wrench to click. This is because of the higher coefficient of friction when the fastener isn't turning. Don't worry, I do it too... but that also means it's important to always dynamically torque your fasteners, because if you get really close to the spec without clicking the wrench, you could possibly reach static torque when you re-position and try again, without yet reaching dynamic torque (yet think that you have reached the torque spec when in fact, you haven't).
It's when you're torquing the wheel, I was noticing that you were re-checking the torque after it clicked. The torque wrench will always click when re-checking because a higher fraction of your applied torque is used to overcome the friction in the threads, which is greater when turning versus not turning the nut. For example if you stop right before the wrench clicks, then reposition & continue, the wrench may click at what you would think is 440 ft lbs dynamically, but in reality it could be 400 ft lbs, or something like that statically (and usually the torque spec is dynamic). I'm bringing this up because with a critical fastener like centrelocks, where there is a high torque spec, the likelihood of this happening is higher as it's troublesome (as shown in the video, haha) to remove & tighten the nut.
The pressure in the tyre will change subject to how much deformity there is in the sidewall when the weight of the car is on it and therefore decreasing the volume of the air in the tyre. I wouldn't have thought there'd be much volume change in a low profile tyre and therefore very little pressure change.
I'm going to send you a set of safety goggles, man. I'm watching you pry the head of that nail, thinking, "oh, this is the last day poor Matt had two good eyes."
Hi i have a 911 GT3 owner who wants to change his tyres at my shop and doesn't want to go through the agent as they charge quite high to change tyres. I would like to know where i can get all the necessary tools to open the center lock wheels and if the tool can be used for all Porsche models with center locks? I highly appreciate your reply. My area is quite restricted to these kind of tools. Thank you
You lost me on this one Matt. As particular as you are , I can not believe that at least you would have taken and spent $25 to get a patch plug put in it. That way you know that that will never leak again. It is your car and by all means do as you want. But, just a plug?
Then you gotta worry about finding the right guy who will remove the rim without scratching it on the rotor or dust shield, remove the tire from the rim without scratching or marring the area of the rim close to the tire, and likely reapply coatings after the new tire is installed...
Sandman GTI While I’m sure he has contemplated buying his own tire changer, but to buy his own tire changer capable of changing tires that wide and with that thin of a sidewall profile, and a tire balancer (high speed, preferably with road force variation measurement) is just not reasonable based on the cost. He’s a finance guy, he knows haha
First, Matt use these plugs: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080IJYVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Self vulcanizing and comes with lube. You may hate that they are not black, but they will turn black quickly. Best there is by far. By the way, I've plugged hundreds of tires without one failure like so many have. Plus made in America and very heavy duty. 2nd, ebrake and or wheel chocks!!!
Another great video Matt i am loving watching your journey with the GT3 RS. looking forward to getting some bits from your store. keep up the great work, all the best for 2018 to you and your family !!!
OG in your opinion are the CL rims worth it Im on a waiting list for a GT3 but the service of these wheels make me nervous can you do a video on the service/cost of these rims
It's no biggie to care for them. You'll want a wrench ($400), someone to press the brake, and some Optimol Grease. That's about all you need. They just require a ton of torque to remove.
First things first. You shouldn't have lifted the car at all before unblocking the wheel centre lock or bolts. Parking brake engaged and gear stick in either 1st or in "P". And... to avoid scratches, one hand must always be on the "centre-of-the-wheel end" of it.
According to the Michelin web site,Any ZR rated non run flat tire must be PATCH PLUGGED! or The tire will not be hi speed rated.You can do what you want but theres no way i would track that car with a plug like that in it.Or go over any high speed.
Matt you should find a shop around you that does this. I have a shop that charges less than 10 bucks a puncture and they glue it (it sounds like its the method Matt Drew mentioned.) Anyway for less than 10 bucks it seems like its worth it when you think about the time effort and pain in the ass doing it your self can be. The last one i had done two years ago was 6 dollars and change, i gave the guy working at the garage a 10 spot as i was happy not to have to deal with it as it was a winter day up here in PA
I could understand your issue with the center lug, but the plugs that have been plugged in my tires that i can think of didn't require the rim or tire to be take off at all. The garage lifted my car with a 2 post lift so the 4 tires hung from the lift. Its just another option. In the summer I wouldn't mind doing the work, but if its below freezing im not into it and would rather pay a few extra dollars to have it fixed. By the way I could watch your GT3RS for hours.
Shouldn't the brakes be on? I always saw the Michelin men doing track support to Porsche ALWAYS have someone inside the car breaking while the other breaks the lug nut.
Hey Matt, here's the answer regarding your question about pressure change of the tire when it's loaded versus unloaded. Since there's not a whole lot of energy change in the system (unloaded vs loaded) the gas in the tire can be modeled using the ideal gas law. This law states that PV=nRT (P=pressure, V=volume, n=number of moles of gas, T=temperature). Since the amount of gas and temperature does not change in either state, the equation can be simplified to P1V1=P2V2 -> P2=P1V1/V2 (the 1s and 2s represent the unloaded and loaded states respectively). So to answer your question, yes the pressure does increase in the tire when it is loaded. However, that pressure change is proportional to the deformation in the tire. So if there's not a whole lot of deformation, there's not a whole lot of pressure change.
I worked at a full service station fo 10 plus years and we plugged tires of all kinds but we alway used the real rubber plugs and dip them in rubber vulcanizing cement and then inserted them. The rubber cement makes the go in like butter and bond to the rubber.
I just ordered a new kit!
Suggestion mate. I have made a padded board which sits against the drivers seat, and with a stick applies pressure to the brake pedal. Works great and makes it really safe to break the wheel nut free. Also, remember to break it downwards so that you don't lift the car off the jack, or pull the car off the jack forward or back. But seriously consider making a foam clad board with a pole that wedges in between seat and pedal, it will be the best thing you'll ever make for it.
Answer: The amount of pressure change is essentially undetectable with a standard gauge. Although the contact patch flattens, the sidewall bulges out creating nearly the same volume and no significant change in pressure. If an outside force could squeeze the tire throughout its entire circumference, you would see a pressure increase.
I knew someone could answer. Make sense.
Yup, what he said. The pressure is being applied all around the tire in all directions keeping the pressure difference undetectable by a standard tire air pressure gauge. Ive been driving Porsche's for more than 30 years and have plugged a few tires as well. Never had a problem.
Hi Matt. Reference your question about tyre pressure.
On the side of the tyre it states the maximum pressure the tyre can withstand running at maximum speed (which equates to maximum temperature the tyre can withstand ) The tyre pressure you set inside the tyre stays the same regardless of what load is applied to the tyre (for example 32psi means there is 32 pounds of pressure on every square inch of the tyre pushing outwards to keep the tyre in shape) Once set the only way the pressure will change is by an increase in heat (pressure increases), excessive heat reduction (pressure decreases) or a puncture.
The tyre pressures for the car are calculated by working out what pressure is required to make the tyre tread sit flat on the ground while holding the weight of the car. That's why tyre pressure values vary from car to car even though the tyre is the same size. For example if the tyre pressures are too low you will see excessive wear on the inner and outer edges of the tyre. If the pressures are too high you will see excessive wear on the middle section of the tyre.
With regards to your puncture repair you did here in the UK it is illegal for a tyre to be repaired from the outside of the tyre unless the top speed of the vehicle is 20mph or lower. Repairs for vehicles that can go over 20mph have to be repaired from the inside only using a patch/plug combination that looks like a mushroom. This is so the whole damaged area is sealed so that moisture doesn't get into the construction of the tyre which could cause the tyre to distort & possibly blow out. Its amazing in this modern world how there are so many variations in ideas when it comes to one subject be it tyres or detailing.
I hope I've managed to clarify tyre pressures for you. There is a lot more that can be said on the subject like you can accurately set the tyre pressures for your car using only a tape measure as long as you have the right information to hand but I I'll leave that thought here. I bet you're thinking how right now? 😁
Nice! I use plugs all the time, also. I coat them in the adhesive that comes with the pack, that sometimes aides in insertion.
You need a big breaker bar for centrelocks. Also loosen the nut before you even get the vehicle off the ground will help immensely.
Everyone in this comment section is a "keyboard mechanic" a tire plug will work just fine. I have patched and plugged tires in the past they both work. I am sure Matt is going to replace those tires eventually anyway. Dealerships and tire shops are in the business of selling tires. Of course they are going to tell you it is not "correct" to plug. More power to you Matt for showing this, and getting the triggered squad all over this video.
Yep...I knew what I was getting into.
I remember years back the tire stores would readily patch a tire. Now days if they fall right near the shoulder and some distance near it they won't touch the tire. They say that's a critical area that shouldn't be patched. After twice having to replace tires with less than 3000 miles on them due to their criteria, I now just plug it on my own. It has worked out fine for me for the past several years. No problems what so ever. I've driven the tires until it was time for replacement for my cars that had a plug in a tire.
funny thing is that if you took it to be fixed or bought a tire, people would comment why didn't you just plug it yourself :)
Ha, ha... Yep, that's how this game works.
Way too much criticism in the comments. There is nothing wrong with plugging a tire. It’s not rocket science, it’s a plug. Doesn’t change anything. I guarantee most of these people commenting negative comments have never plugged a tire in their life or even worked on their car for that matter.
This is the second video I've made on plugging a tire. I got the same reaction.
Using gummy plugs will void the tire manufacturer warranty since gummy plugs aremt RMA approved patches..
So since I couldn't find anyone to answer your question about the tire pressure, I'll answer it. No, pressure will not change with the car in the air or on the ground. Don't ask me why, but it doesn't. The sticker in the door jamb just tells you what the manufacturer recommends for pressure at "cold" temperature. So not driven for more than a mile after a few hours. I personally go between 1 and 2 psi over the manufacturer specification, then again I live in New England so the outside temperature fluctuates so much. But anyway, you are still good setting them to the 32 psi Porsche. FYI I work for Toyota as a tech. Love your videos Matt! Keep em clean!
Man Matt no one can ever say that your channel is not honest and transparent, cause you take a beating on these videos yet keep plugging along lol That makes following your success that much more enjoyable. And glad to read you picked up a new heavy duty plug kit those things are legit.
Yeah, I know what people are going to say about doing stuff like this. I think it's because I live in a very logical way, that I don't get hung up on the stuff that others do. Living in reality rather than making up stories seems to be working for me.
Obsessed Garage Yep, ordinary guy with extraordinary taste in cars and tools, enjoyable to watch
Plugs work well and good ones won’t leak, as long as it’s away from the sidewall. I work at an Audi dealer and the ones we use never come back. I don’t know what Porsche says about their cars but the ones we won’t patch are R8’s for liability reasons. (Tend to be driven harder and race tracks don’t allow patches)
Matt, with all the expertise you provide on your channel, this was clearly a "how-not-to" video, and I dont mean the plugs. Please read this for constructive criticism and some advice.First off your inner instinct should have told you to engage the parking brake for safety, then It would have been also possible to break the centerlock in the air withount lowering the jack back-whatever the reason to do it this way. I believe this idea is aplicable when you use an impact wrench which can take off the lock in a split second-then you need to have the car raised so that it doesn"t collapse when the rim slides off the guides.Otherwise,with handheld bar and slow turning it should be perfectly ok to loosen when lowerd,just like you willy-nilly did in the end. Also, next time you have something that looks like a screw in your tyre, try just unscrewing it-much easier than pulling :) this one was grinded from the top so screwdriver wouldn’t have helped, but you could just grab it from the top with flat eneded pliers and turn. Hope that helps!
You do realize it's super easy to judge what is going on when watching back a video of someone else doing something.
Parking brake or something? Now you were literally twisting the shaft connecting the tire to the differential.
Petsku333 I was saying the same thing I was cringing so hard every inch that tire moved without the e-brake
I was thinking the same thing watching back. I forgot about that step. Can't win at everything.
Looks bad, but considering the force the halfshaft sees at WOT in first gear, it's nothing.
Timothy Er of course not I know that he has wasn't going to break it but it would have been so much easier in the air with the e-brake on
Would be so much fun for the car to roll off the jack when the wheel was off.
Everyone like if you plug your tire regardless of how much money you have or how much you car cost! I give props to this guy for working on his own car!!!!
exactly man, the passion one puts into his car is what matters
Lol you should have called your wife to remove the center lock 🤣
Ha....
Obsessed Garage lol im joking love your videos 🤣
And the screw 🙄😂😂😂
Matt ,you are perfectly fine with a plug ,on my old gtr I had to put a plug in a almost brand new rear runflat dunlop ,went 12k miles with a lot of roll and dig racing without any issues, however I always drill the hole with a drill bit and before inserting the actual plug I'd light it on fire with a lighter and then push it in immediately - it seals better than ever .( guy who does tires for the past 40 years told me that trick with the lighter)
I personally use the Stop&Go tire plugger. I'm not sure if they're any better than what you're using, but the mushroom shape gives me a little more confidence in the plug...
Great video Matt, gave me the cojones to plug my next leak ( should I get one), on my P90DL instead of replacing the rear 265/35 21 Pilot, like I did the last time. The less foreign hands that touch my car the less chance of things going wrong! We outsource everything instead of trying to do the work ourselves. I applaud and aspire to your work-ethic.
3:43 was like when I had some spicy thai pepper fried rice yesterday. An hour later I was making that exact sound, Matt. Right there with you.
On the subject of tyre pressure, when you load the tyre the volume wouldn't appreciably change. Imagine the tyre as an annulus in 2D for simplicity. With the car off the ground and tyres at pressure the two circles of the annulus are concentric. When the car gets put on the ground the tyre 'flattens' a little at the bottom, right? Now imagine these two scenarios and in your mind (or on paper) overlay the first unloaded annulus over the second loaded (flattened at the bottom) annulus. The change in volume (which leads to increased tyre pressure) you're considering is the small space bounded by the outer circle of the unloaded annulus and the flat line (chord) of the loaded annulus (which is the contact patch). I suggest you draw it. Also this considers the tyre deforms elastically only on the bottom surface or contact patch, and doesn't deform 'width-wise'.
You could calculate the volume of this by using circle geometry if you measure the approximate length of your contact patch (the chord) and the tyre dimensions. You could then use the unloaded vs. loaded volumes in the ideal gas equation to get a percentage change. Even without doing it I'd bank on it being insignificant, you'd probably see a much bigger difference when considering the effect of temperature. Volume will be small percentage wise, temperatures can range significantly depending on weather and whether the car has been driven and the tyres are warmed up.
Hey Matt, regarding all the haters I see down below, people like you make my experience on the net better. Whether you did it or not in the right way is up to each's interpretation. Yeah even for me, who hasn't dealt with center locks, you looked a bit clumsy but you got the job done and it helped me lol. I just bought 2012 GTS and haven't even picked up the car yet. Exciting!
I got a flat on my 718, the Porsche dealer said they don't patch tires as per company policy. Wanted almost $500 for a new tire when the old one had only 1000 miles on it. So, I went to a local guy down the street and for 40 bucks it's still going strong
It's not worth the liability for the dealer. I would probably do the same thing if I were them.
Obsessed Garage Yeah, I get it, if in the remote chance something were to happen they'd get sued. Plus, most guys probably would just pay it and feel better about it. For me that extra 500 went towards some nice detailing products
Hi Matt,
I recently purchased the spare CL wheel kit.
The spare wheel (Part # 991-362-021-02) is a standard 5 lug wheel with an adapter (Part # 991-362-191-00) bolted to the wheel with 5 bolts (991-361-209-00). It has its own CL bolt (Part # 991-361-181-50). The kit also contains two compact spacers one for the front and a bigger one for the rear. Note: The rear spacer is also called the shim. The part # for the front spacer is 9P1-601-271 (old part # is 991-362-193-00) and the part # for the rear spacer (shim) is 9P1-601-271-A (old part # is 991-362-195-00).
Now the real question.
If I get a flat in the front, I think it's fairly clear about putting the spare with front spacer and using the front spacer.
The problem is with the rear. I have heard two different opinions here
(1) Remove the good front wheel and install in the rear along with the rear spacer (shim) and instal the spare in the front with the front spacer.
(2) Install the spare with the rear spacer (shim) in the rear and don't do anything to the good front.
Does anyone here know which one of these are accurate?
Any help with this will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Deb
Plugs are fine. I had Porsche do one (plug or patch - done from inside) on mine. I belted out numerous track days there after, no issue.
FYI - Best way to insert your plug and improve performance is pour a little rubber cement on it from your repair kit. That way you don't need to go crazy with the awl. You just have to position your hand so that you don't over shoot the hole. As to success, I did tire repair in a gas station in high school (25+ years) and I've used them ever since with NO ISSUES.....
That makes more sense! I've started doing that now after someone had suggested it.
Great video Matt, been doing the same thing for years. Never had a problem with leaking or blowing a plug. Why replace a brand new tire when a patch is perfectly safe.
$200,000+ car, thousands of dollars in detailing products, but won't spend a few hundred for a new tire.. Arguably one of the most important aspect's of a car's performance and safety.
Plugs work. Why have one new tire and three old ones? Plug it til it's time for 4 new ones. If you got a flat everyday or even once a week, when would you stop buying tires and plug them? I'vs had multiple plugs in a tire, never an issue.
There is nothing wrong with a plug. These are $500 each.
Of course they do. They have to do so. They would be sued otherwise if it were to fail.
If you can afford a car like that 500 dollars will not be so much I think.
Stupid argument. $500 for at tire, and you would probably change both of them if they had some wear... Ever heard of not being stupid with your money? Just because someone got money doesn't mean they should spend it left to right..
The passion one puts into his car, whatever car that is, is what MATTers.
Had the same issue on my GT3 but with the aftermarket BBS wheels. Brought the car to Les Schwab, Big O Tires , and Goodyear in the local area but they all decline to patch it because they were afraid the wheel could be scratched in the process. Finally had it taken care of at a independent tire shop but they only offer to plug it.
I know what the manual says but break it on the ground not to a full loop just enough to get it moving otherwise you're fighting your electric parking brake and if it slips you have rotor and Pad damage so does breaking on the ground
So loosening the nut seems tough for you but I do it at least once a week for the track season, just takes some getting used to. With the tire off the ground lift the wrench up using your legs instead of trying to push down with it, way more control. I always had to call my wife out to the garage to stand on the brake (I have a manual 991.2 GT3) but she got tired of that pretty quick so I got a clamp/ spreader bar at Lowes so I'm on my own now. When I started out it was an hour to change 4 now less than 30 minutes.
Nice job. It's quite some work with these center locks but I think it's faster than using like 5 bolts and torque wrench all of them plus one is usually an anti thefts bolt which slows you down a bit. Sometimes the small bolts require a lot of force to remove but I see that these centerlock nuts are so much tighter.
I would only replace a track tire or a tire that has side wall damage. For a road tire Matt is just fine.
Yep...
I'd still prefer to have a patch done to repair the inner structure of the tire. Costco offers free repairs for tires (assuming repair is possible) they sell. Came in really handy when my
top for next time you need to do this, the part of the breaker bar or torque wrench that would touch the fender, wrap it with a microfiber towel. that way if you do touch the fender, you're not doing any damage
Smart!
ok, now you owe me, sell me your s2k at a massive discount :D (just kidding in case someone decides to take this comment seriously)
I’ve plugged my tire still on the car. Just asking why didn’t you just do that since you have jack or a lift. That way you don’t have to take the wheel.
I worked at a tire store for a while and the patch the goes from the inside is garbage, they leak all the time and you have to drill the hole out bigger than the plugs so after a few heat cycles they loose there ability to seal and leak. I recommend getting vulcanizing rubber glue though it melts the plug to the tire and acts as lube when you push the plug in.
Matt Drew or use vulcanized plugs
Obsessed Garage I didn't see anyone else share this. If so, pardon me.
You can spray a soapy water solution on the plug and look for bubbles to check for leaks before reinstalling the wheel. This might save you some work in the future.
I hope you and the family have a Merry Christmas!
I used to do that, but the last 10 plugs or so have been perfect.
I always push the plug in, give the tool a sharp quarter turn then yank it out. I don't think I've ever had one pull back out.
When you took wheels off on GT3 didn't you need a buddy or the tool to hold the brake when using breaker bar. I'd recheck the torque on the wheels. There was a TSB on this issued by Porsche. Always HAVE to have someone holding the brakes when breaking the wheel lose or u are transferring that torque to the axle and diff.
Hey man, cool video. I just got a gts with centerlocks and the video is helpful. BTW there's nothing wrong with a plug if u do it right. We used to put contact adhesive on the plug. Never had one fail.
Plugs are perfectly fine. Not ideal obviously but if you gotta do it, it’s fine. I’ve plugged a motorcycle tire and rode for the whole life cycle of the tire like that. My bro in law is a motorcycle cop and he’s run several at one time in the same tire for many miles lol.
Thanks Matt, just did my first plug on my 17 911 carrera PS4S and so far so good.
Found a screw in my tyre this morning and remember seeing this video so searched and watched again. I have a kit ordered and will give it a go👍
Did the repair this morning. Once the wheel was off, only took 5 mins.
Matt, I have been watching your channel for years. It's apparent to me that we're clearly cut from the same cloth, obsessed about what we do specific to our cars and enjoying the love for Porsche. However, I have to tell you, I honestly wouldn't feel comfortable with a .50 cent plug in my tire. After all the money you spent on the GT3 RS car including the purchase and the amazing detail job, I would've thought that you would've at least broken down the tire and installed a vulcanized radial patch from the inside. Please be careful as the tire now has lost its speed rating, so, no high-speed passes until you replace. By the way, damn that knock off wheel was tough to break free! I found myself talking to you as you're struggling, ultimately arriving at the same decision, to break it free on the ground. Merry Christmas.
It's certainly not idea, but neither is removing and reinstalling a tire. That center lock was on too tight.
The worst part about removing and reinstalling the patched tire is the perfect Balance issue. Will it be balanced right again ? Is my take
You are suppose to slide the metal part of the center cap tool all the way in and pivot the tool to pop the cap off, don't use it to pull the cap off. That is how they get damaged.
Isn't that what I said in the video?
Like your vids so far. I would recommend getting a pneumatic air wrench for your socket (prob 1" drive) as the wheels were designed to be taken off quickly and easily in the pits or in this case your garage. I put a plug kit and small alluminum floor jack in my frunk to handle any plugging on the road if I need it. Haven't had to yet. Also a small spray bottle of soap n water is a useful tool in your frunk to figure out where the leak/ puncture is coming from if it isnt obvious.
you will destroy the CL nut if you use an pneumatic impact wrench. Porsche goes out of their way to tell you not to use air tools on this system. A torque multiplier is an option but absolutely don’t use pneumatic tools on these wheel nuts.
Ok, you have a GT3 RS and can't afford a Longacre digital tire gauge? What am I missing?
Torque multiplier would probably make that a little easier... less chance of bumping something and an excuse to get a new tool.
Are you cranking on the gearbox in park?
That’s one wide piece of rubber! 👌
Use rubber cement as a lubricant for the plugs
Smart!
I think almost every plug I've installed, they come with rubber cement and the instructions say to use it for installation. I've used plugs all my life too and never had an issue.
I do the same, cement definitely makes it much easier to get the plug in...and who knows, may help it hold better ;)
The rubber cement is helpful as a lube.
You turn it clockwise to tighten? Shouldn't the passenger side be a left hand thread so that the center lock tightens under acceleration?
To the viewers, I've seen some testing done on tire gauges. The larger the gauge capacity (150 vs 80 psi) the more accurate the gauge.
That's an impressive torque wrench. I'm with you on the plug.
Seems like it'd be a heck of a lot easier to use an impact wrench for the center lock. Why do they say not to?
Once you took the wheel off the remainder was art wow
You break the tire on the ground, and when you torque the wheel, the rubber should be touching the ground and then torque your wheel. Good job
No, not on a centerlock. Porsche procedure is the break it without any weight on the axle.
I'm pretty sure I use the same plugs as you but I also have the type with the glue, I then use the glue on your type plug and it works as a great lubricant to insert the rope and you don't have to drill and oversize hole, never had a plug fail.
Use the bar off the jack for additional leverage - love the car
Man, I envy how easy it is to remove the wheels on a car. It’s an act of congress to get 120 pounds of tires and wheels off of a Jeep. I’m sure Jeeps are far simpler than Porsches though, LOL. Keep it up Matt!
Matt, I'm glad that you changed the tire yourself. I'm with you. If I had no one I trusted with my car I would definitely do it myself. That car is super nice and was not cheap. In about a couple years I am going to get a GT3 RS or a Turbo S. I'm torn between the 2. I really dont go to the track and I know the RS is primarily a track car. If I got an RS I would consider going to the track every so often but not a whole lot. The turbo S is super fast on the streets and in a straight line. I believe it is not bad on the track but not quite as good as the RS. Either way whatever route I decide the car will mainly be driven on the street. I like the look of the RS. It is a little more aggressive and typically has a higher resale value. But the Turbo S is pretty fast. I guess it will come down to my preference, but wanted to see if you had any insight or opinion? Why did you opt for an RS instead of a Turbo S?Keep up the good work!
You'll know if you can get behind the wheel of a Turbo. The is not way to not love a GT3, but it is possible to not love the Turbo. For me, the sound is key.
I usually put the breaker bar on so it's just 6 or so inches from the ground and step on it. *Im not a professional*
I've seen many others talk about the loosening of then lock a 1/4 turn once you tighten it and then re-tighten it a final time...what is the reason for this? Cheers
I think it has to do with ensure proper seating.
Psi won’t change no matter how much weight you have on the car. 32psi will still be 32psi on or off the car. Plugs are fine to use. I’m sure the RS takes more 32psi. The weight of the motor in the rear requires way more then that.
Next week on Obsessed Garage we will how to plug a cracked oil pan with chewing gum.
I break my bolts loose when the wheels barely make contact with the ground. Then almost all the weight is off, but the tire still makes contact for easy breaking loose.
I plug my tires as well. Never had an issue.
It's not supposed to be on the tightly. I usually can break the center lock right on the jack.
PQR5CHE That's also the way I do it. You cannot loosen or tighten with a wheel that is still turning around :) Or use an impact wrench (on low torque setting when tightening and then torque it to spec by hand).
Watching him remove the center lock had me on pins and needles. Was worried that the breakerbar action would slip and would end up banging against the fender, throwing Matt off balance and into the jack, knocking the handle back and springing forward into the side of the car smashing a window.
Maybe it's just for your own sanity, but after dynamically torquing the wheel (or any other fastener as a matter of fact) rechecking with the torque wrench without turning the fastener will always cause the torque wrench to click. This is because of the higher coefficient of friction when the fastener isn't turning. Don't worry, I do it too... but that also means it's important to always dynamically torque your fasteners, because if you get really close to the spec without clicking the wrench, you could possibly reach static torque when you re-position and try again, without yet reaching dynamic torque (yet think that you have reached the torque spec when in fact, you haven't).
I'm not sure I'm following.
It's when you're torquing the wheel, I was noticing that you were re-checking the torque after it clicked. The torque wrench will always click when re-checking because a higher fraction of your applied torque is used to overcome the friction in the threads, which is greater when turning versus not turning the nut. For example if you stop right before the wrench clicks, then reposition & continue, the wrench may click at what you would think is 440 ft lbs dynamically, but in reality it could be 400 ft lbs, or something like that statically (and usually the torque spec is dynamic). I'm bringing this up because with a critical fastener like centrelocks, where there is a high torque spec, the likelihood of this happening is higher as it's troublesome (as shown in the video, haha) to remove & tighten the nut.
The pressure in the tyre will change subject to how much deformity there is in the sidewall when the weight of the car is on it and therefore decreasing the volume of the air in the tyre. I wouldn't have thought there'd be much volume change in a low profile tyre and therefore very little pressure change.
Perfect, thanks!
I'm going to send you a set of safety goggles, man. I'm watching you pry the head of that nail, thinking, "oh, this is the last day poor Matt had two good eyes."
A nit pick, you do not put '32 pounds of air' into the tire, you pressurise the tire to '32 pounds per square inch (PSI)' of pressure
Part number for the torque wrench? C4d600? C5d600
Hi i have a 911 GT3 owner who wants to change his tyres at my shop and doesn't want to go through the agent as they charge quite high to change tyres. I would like to know where i can get all the necessary tools to open the center lock wheels and if the tool can be used for all Porsche models with center locks? I highly appreciate your reply. My area is quite restricted to these kind of tools. Thank you
The socket and pick tool is in the front truck area and comes with the car. amzn.to/2tLc3qT
Is it a no no to use an impact to remove the center nut?
Matt, is there a particular repair kit you recommend? I don’t want to get a cheap kit from Amazon that isn’t durable.
www.steelmantools.com/tire-repair-plug-patch-kit
Hi Matt, have you ever used rubber cement when putting the pugs in it helps. great video keep
Don’t listen to the haters.. problem sorted! Why didn’t you just unscrew the screw though instead of pulling it..?
Head was flat.
You lost me on this one Matt. As particular as you are , I can not believe that at least you would have taken and spent $25 to get a patch plug put in it. That way you know that that will never leak again. It is your car and by all means do as you want. But, just a plug?
Doing so means you have to remove the tire from the wheel which means I have to go deal with a guy that changes tires. I don't like having to do that.
Plugs are better than patches. And Matt has a point...deal with guy changing tire, or do it myself. Myself
Then you gotta worry about finding the right guy who will remove the rim without scratching it on the rotor or dust shield, remove the tire from the rim without scratching or marring the area of the rim close to the tire, and likely reapply coatings after the new tire is installed...
Obsessed Garage
Buy your own tire changer then if you can not trust someone.
Sandman GTI While I’m sure he has contemplated buying his own tire changer, but to buy his own tire changer capable of changing tires that wide and with that thin of a sidewall profile, and a tire balancer (high speed, preferably with road force variation measurement) is just not reasonable based on the cost. He’s a finance guy, he knows haha
First, Matt use these plugs: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080IJYVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Self vulcanizing and comes with lube. You may hate that they are not black, but they will turn black quickly. Best there is by far. By the way, I've plugged hundreds of tires without one failure like so many have. Plus made in America and very heavy duty. 2nd, ebrake and or wheel chocks!!!
Literally just ordered. Thanks!
How about placing some blocks behind the front wheels to hold the car in place professor.
The other side of the car is on the ground, so I don't think it's going anywhere.
watching your muffler video now. Nice work.
wrap the pipe with rags so you don't scratch the fender.or pipe foam tube. good vids.
Y'all have a problem him plugging??? Why don't u get gt3 first then comment. Keyboard warriors strikes again.
I’ve plugged tires on my Z06 I do launches and hundreds for miles just fine
Any reason why you didnt plug it while the wheel was on the car?
Another great video Matt i am loving watching your journey with the GT3 RS. looking forward to getting some bits from your store. keep up the great work, all the best for 2018 to you and your family !!!
Thanks Carl!
Why didnt you lower the car down when torquing the wheel down? Is it a different process for center locks?
Yes, center lock has different requirement to torque properly.
OG in your opinion are the CL rims worth it Im on a waiting list for a GT3 but the service of these wheels make me nervous can you do a video on the service/cost of these rims
It's no biggie to care for them. You'll want a wrench ($400), someone to press the brake, and some Optimol Grease. That's about all you need. They just require a ton of torque to remove.
Worth for what? This is only a complication
Get a 10-foot breaker bar. That should be enough torque to loosen it lol!!
Ha, ha... I needed it for this one.
17:28 killed me lmao
First things first. You shouldn't have lifted the car at all before unblocking the wheel centre lock or bolts. Parking brake engaged and gear stick in either 1st or in "P". And... to avoid scratches, one hand must always be on the "centre-of-the-wheel end" of it.
Porsche calls for the weight to be off the wheel when breaking the center lock.
Either spit on it or light it on fire a second before insertion! Oh and MY DAD ALWAYS said use YOUR WEIGHT to break lugs NOT your back!
You lifted up the wheel because using the break bar?
Yes, it’s standard procedure.
According to the Michelin web site,Any ZR rated non run flat tire must be PATCH PLUGGED! or The tire will not be hi speed rated.You can do what you want but theres no way i would track that car with a plug like that in it.Or go over any high speed.
Matt you should find a shop around you that does this. I have a shop that charges less than 10 bucks a puncture and they glue it (it sounds like its the method Matt Drew mentioned.) Anyway for less than 10 bucks it seems like its worth it when you think about the time effort and pain in the ass doing it your self can be. The last one i had done two years ago was 6 dollars and change, i gave the guy working at the garage a 10 spot as i was happy not to have to deal with it as it was a winter day up here in PA
The issue is that no one has tools or knows how to change a center lock.
I could understand your issue with the center lug, but the plugs that have been plugged in my tires that i can think of didn't require the rim or tire to be take off at all. The garage lifted my car with a 2 post lift so the 4 tires hung from the lift. Its just another option. In the summer I wouldn't mind doing the work, but if its below freezing im not into it and would rather pay a few extra dollars to have it fixed. By the way I could watch your GT3RS for hours.
was there a pressure difference with the weight of the car on the wheel?
Shouldn't the brakes be on? I always saw the Michelin men doing track support to Porsche ALWAYS have someone inside the car breaking while the other breaks the lug nut.
For the front, yes. Rear, I should have engaged the e-brake.
you should let the car on the ground a little so the wheel doesnt move. Otherwise you can break the handbreak.