Porsche Turbo S Center Wheel Lock
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Porsche Turbo S Center Wheel Lock and what you need to know before you take them off for a tire change.
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Porsche DOES NOT allow the wheel to touch the ground during the torque sequence. The proper method is to lock the wheels using the brakes via a pressure bar (or an assistant) on the brake pedal. Also, a Wheel Alignment Tool is recommended to center the wheel during removal and re-installation to prevent contact with the disk. During the retorque sequence, the proper method is to torque, then back off 90 degrees, not 180 degrees, prior to the final torque. Porsche also does not recommend lubricating the locking splines. The grease can harden causing the locking splines to stick in the retracted position. If the locking mechanism must be lubed, only the lugs at the base of the locking mechanism should be coated to allow for radial play to insure proper engagement.
Why does this guy upload this video with so many details wrong according to procedures?
i kept the wheel off the ground per the manual and the 1/4 turn back off too. also only greased the threads and conical area per manual.
Plus the locking mechanism is not out all the way. If it doesn't retract out all the way. You can use the back on the cap tool to 1/4 turn it out. I'm sorry for whoever car that was lol.
my understanding as well that the wrenches should only pull up to either tighten or loosen the nut. this video should be removed.
LOCKING PIN IS NOT ENGAGED UNLESS IT IS FLUSH! I WOULD UPDATE THIS VIDEO AND REVIEW THE 991 MANUAL
Awesome 👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾😎😎😎
Is there any way to set the centre lock so that the hole for the centre cap points down? I’m sure Porsche had thought about it. After all, everything they add or remove to/from their cars had and still has a purpose.
Do you have the same video for the revised 3rd generation centre lock on the 992’s?
Your locking pin is NOT flush with the end of the splines at 9:23. Please refer to the 991 Factory Service Manual regarding the correct flush position. This intermediate location of the locking pin that you incorrectly described as correct is NOT the proper flush position of the locking pin!
i simply lift the car only an Inch above the ground, so that the rim can't fall on the brake disk.
i broke down and bought the alignment tool to remove/install the wheels. wasn't cheap, but way cheaper than a carbon/ceramic rotor.
I sit on the ground and support the tire on top of both of my knees while loosing the center nut all the way off.
Warning to all who are watching the video! The locking pin is still not flush with the inner toothing of the central bolt.
Futhermore, I just learn this, the mini pry tool that comes the car to remove the centercaps is also the tool to stick in the hole to slightly turn the locking pin to assist in having it come flush to the wheel. @Marcus Lim is correct, the pin illustrated is not fully engauged and would be also consider dangerous to drive.
I noticed that as well.
What is the advantage of this type of wheel/locking system?
WRONG WRONG WRONG ! this reminds me of the last time he cut into a 997 Carrera earth cable to demonstrate corrosion only to find NOTHING there, the look on his face was priceless ,,, but they edited out that part of the video and re-upload it again, it was so funny I laughed out loud.... ... this errors The locking pin not flush and the lubricating wow.... that wheel is not fully locked .... WOW !!
I was going to say the same thing. He pushes the pin all the way in then pops it out, but it's not completely flush.
A. SUPER. EXELENT. VIDEO VERY. INFORMATIVE. ANT TO THE POINT. REAL. PROFECIONAL. WORK. TNKS. FOR. THIS. WE. APRECIATE. THE. HELP....BLESSED. BE
0:37 your spring loaded locking mechanism is not "sticking". If it does, it means the Centerlock nut should be tightened a tad so that the splines do not bind. The locking mechanism either does not extend, or it binds or it extends fully. And you do not use the Porsche Castrol lubricant (the anti-seize product) on the locking mechanism. None was applied by Porsche at the factory. I use a thin spray lube on the splines.
anyone wondering how to flush the locking mechanism, use the back end of the center lock cap removal tool to press in and rotate the lock until it sits flush
Another MIS-STEP in this video/process, was that he never took the lug nut itself apart. There are 4 pieces to that lug nut (a circular plate & a ring, plus the inner & outer components). All of that needs to be disassembled (whack it on a piece of flat wood to separate), cleaned and then reassembled. He missed a critical part of the process!!!
And what a messy job that is. I wash all parts in gas till all the Castrol anti-seize is washed away and then use compressed air to dry it all before recoating it all again. And I see so many videos where the mechanic removes the Centerlock nut and then places it face up on the lift ramp under the rocker panel for dirt to fall into the Castrol lube. Christ, at least place the Centerlock nut into a zip-lock bag to keet dirt away. Amateurs which is why no show sees any of my vehicles.
Hey man, are those HRE wheels by chance? i just installed a set that look very similar to them on my 2014 911 turbo S today. followed the manual, very similar process to what you did, but that center splined shaft you show at 8:37, see how there are about 3/16" of exposed splines? all 4 of mine are the same way, but the stock wheels showed zero exposed splines, which means there are less engaged splines and threads, which makes me a little nervous. was that any concern to you? i've emailed the HRE rep to see what he says before i drive it as these are obviously critical components. just curious if you noted any concern on that. thanks.
What was the outcome?
@@LivYo_life basically, you have to jack with the spline locks to get them spring out all the way. my wheels were fine. once i messed with the splines and got them to engage all the way out, it was fine. one of them i had to take apart and clean. i couldn't find one video that had all the details to follow doing this job so made my own 2 part video on my channel.
@@LivYo_life th-cam.com/video/7g3g8g_d-7Q/w-d-xo.html is part 1 and part 2 is in the description of that one if you want to see them. shows detail on engaging the splines as well as taking one apart and cleaning it. there are some other tricks to the job included as well.
@@NoLimitsNoRegrets thx
The centre lock wheels would put me off buying a car with them. What a faff on to take a wheel off
Cleetus sent me here
Removing the wheel in always a 2 person job? Dude, i alway do this alone while sitting on a rolling detailing chair.
Only need 1 2nd person to apply the brakes because you must never torque centerlocks while the car is on the ground.
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Screw the expensive Ceramic Brakes and this cool looking but ridiculous center lock process. I’ll take my steel Brembo brakes and lug nuts on my 997.1 C4S any day. Much easier and affordable. Still a very fast car. Money left over for a boat.
I'm more of a race car enthusiast and pretty cool to have some race tech on the car. The limited track days I do, the PCCB are amazing brakes and stopping power when entering trying to stop the car quickly at 125pmh. No brake fade so far.. I do realize the center locks are more aesthetics, but again pretty unique and cool.
I recommend reading the official Porsche service manual for this process. Lots of misinformation in the video
The lock nut wasn’t even properly seated at the end. Unsafe.
A lot of BS with that center lock🤦🏻♂️
true, but the wheel swap i just did today wasn't as bad as i worried it would be.
Maybe to you, but these are the most powerful brakes I have ever experienced, I am glad I have them.
Wow so much wrong with this video 🤣🤣 the splines of the locking mechanism were never flush and consequently the safety lock was never fully engaged 🤦♂️🤦♂️
Please use manual focus next time, my eyes hurt after this!
It's funny how the Porsche road cars are much weaker and sensitive to stupid stuff than their racing counterparts... I worked as race engineer in Porsche Carrera Cup Brazil and people always torqued the center lock nut with the car on the ground, with someone braking, because the car doesn't have a parking brake for obvious reasons... Also, their snow flaky ceramic discs make me think it's just a gimmick to sell the car at a higher price. The Porsche GT3 Cup car uses steel brakes, and they certainly produce far more heat, and have a hell lot more braking power than the street counterparts... I see absolutely no reason why they'd need a carbon composite brake that is super fragile when the racing version of the car uses steel brakes...
Listen to some boomer doesn't know what he talking about lol
Typical boomers
DO NOT allow the wheels to touch the GROUND!!!!!!! WRONG information!
Cool. Single. Nut
Wrong wrong wrong 😂