I'm (very) new to sewing and picked out this pattern a few days ago. Upon opening it up for the first time I was a bit overwhelmed by all the different markings and what seemed like complex pieces, and despite the instructions, didn't really know where to start. Thank you so much for a very easy-to-follow tutorial, It made the process so much clearer and gave me the confidence to keep pursuing sewing!
Thank you so much! I’m not a beginner, but I was always lucky with a good pattern, and I couldn’t figure out what’s wrong with the neck band on my own! Next time I’ll probably make something with a pattern that you already posted here😆
I made this dress at the beginning of the summer for a wedding I attended and could not figure out what I did wrong with the neckband! I ended up making it work, but I can tell I could have made it better. This was so helpful, thank you!
Isn’t it terrible? My only issue is that McCalls keeps printing this pattern and doesn’t fix the pattern back neckband or changes the instructions. Its up to us to figure it out. And the worst part, its a great dress so I’m Pretty certain they are selling this pattern like hot cakes! All the while its not us… its the pattern! If it makes you feel any better, it took me a good two days of just messing with it and re doing it. And if anyone asks… I’m bitter about the extra half of yard of my pretty fabric that I had to re cut for the pieces no. 9 and 10.
I agree that Mccalls should have issued an apology and correct instructions! I still have beautiful fabric cut out (a year ago!) and waiting to be finished because of the error. With your help, I hope I can finish it at last!
I made a wearable muslin of this dress and French seamed it since the embroidered fabric was semi sheer. I had a slip that worked with it. I adjusted the pattern for a better fit for the next one. I will be making this dress a couple of more times with length variations and sleeve options.
Own this pattern and my measurements are almost identical to yours! Thank you for sharing and doing the troubleshooting. I am less afraid now to try this one.
You can do it Monika!!!! Depending what fabric you are using (aka a rayon or lightweight woven) stabilize those seams around the neckline and the bodice right after you cut them.
Lovely fabric! Thanks for the excellent detailed demonstration of how to construct this dress and the possible pitfalls with the pattern. It’s a shame the manufacturers haven’t issued an updated error free version.
Im making this for the third time. I find the front and neck part was confusing every time but I did get it. I did find the sizing was off so I had to make it bigger in the waist and it seemed big in the arm holes every time. I do like the dress because it is comfortable. I made covered buttons with fabric and added a big snap to close it up more on the neck.
I have this pattern but have been a little scared to make it. I'll have to watch your video again in the spring when I plan to make it. Thanks for doing this! Love your sewalongs! Would like to hear more about how you determined which size to make. I struggle with sizing in the big 4.
You are the second person that asks me about this. I suspect I may have to show you all more how I fit and what sizes I pick. The big four is a tough one, and I have to make quite a few adjustments to their patterns these days. I've talked about this with someone else who has a lot of experience sewing the big four and she said that as of late she has to make a LOT of adjustments to the patterns to fit her, not one but quite a few.
Rebecca, if you are ever hesitant about fit. Just grab some inexpensive muslin fabric and just sew it up. You will never regret that you did a muslin. Just to check for fit. By the time the dress comes around and you are cutting your good fabric you will be very happy you did. All the tricky bits will be over with and you can figure out weird stuff like the neckband on this.
Are you considering a book? A book on sewing for those of us that may need a little more detailed instructions. I love the way you are so calm and methodical.
Thank you for your kind words. Right now writing a book its not really something I'm thinking about. I'm currently working on a sewing app for all of us. Hoping to release it soon.
I picked up the neck band problem doing a test fit with calico fabric. I re-cut the neck band from the back neck of the pattern piece. Otherwise the pattern is simple to sew, not many fitting issues for me other than I am short wasted.
Sure I’ll do. Thank you for taking your time and writing the blog post. I’m one of the viewers requested for a sew along for this pattern. This is really helpful. L
Alex I have another doubt. I would like to raise my neckline 2.5 inches more. Should I need to do any changes on neck band? I see you have raised yours by 1 inch and didn’t do any changes to the neck band. Thank you
@@shif7905 My neckband just fit I just eased it in. HOWEVER with that being said. Raise your neckline on the bodice pattern. Then grab the neckband pattern piece , Set it on top of the new bodice pattern and redraw it. Remember that your neckband should follow the same width, its just going to be shifting over to the center more. I suspect you may not have to adjust it as long as you start at the top from zero so it meets the shoulder. I should probably write a blog post on this separately so you know what needs to change.
Thank you for all the time and effort you put into sewing, filming and editing this sew along. I’m certain that many will benefit. I was surprised that you didn’t stay stitch the neckline as a first step. I consider myself a confident beginner and I was under the impression that stay stitching any areas on the bias (necklines and armscyes) was best done at the outset to prevent any stretching. Perhaps it depends on the fabric? Or the pattern instructions did not have you do it at the beginning? I read your blog post just to learn about your fix. You explained it very well. The color of your dress is gorgeous on you. You look fabulous in it. 😊
Hi Denise, I did stay stitch the neck line! But I had to go back and redo the entire thing due to the neckband saga. Always stay stitch, Do not skip that step. Especially on this pattern because this thing is going to stretch when you are adding in that piece no. 9 and 10.
@@MassonLifestyle thanks, Alex. I did note that you stay stitched the neckline. My question had more to do with when you do it. I was taught to do it first thing. But it looks like you did it after gathering stitches and the shoulder and side seams. No criticism meant, just trying to understand best practices. 💕
@@denisedorsey2889 didn’t feel like a criticism at all! You should do it right when you cut the pattern. I just usually try to follow the instructions (which I’m going to start deviating more and more moving forward) because there are better means and methods out there, like the burrito method but none of these patterns show it. Some days I have so much to say…. like this pattern. Why hasn’t McCalls started an “errata” tab on their website? They really should.
@@MassonLifestyle Thanks for clarifying that for me. I’m learning that there are times when deviating from the “order of construction” given in patterns is called for. Again, thanks for all you do to help the sewing community.
So sorry it took me so long to reply. So here we go. First off, make sure you clip those curves. You need to have that little gap of fabric in between so when you fold the facing over you don't have fabric bunching in that spot and to make sure that it lays flat. Now as far as the serger goes.... I do serge away. I just make sure to keep that little gap in between (so essentially I don't need it so it's so close to the other piece where I cut in). So if you do that, your serger will leave that fabric gap in between and it will lay flat. Just make sure you press! Pressing is key. Any time you have a curve you will have to clip those corners. Always! So think of armholes, facings around the back where it usually curves a lot. Let me know if you have any other questions! Please don't hesitate to ask.
I haven't sewed it yet. Just cut all the pieces then saw the neckband problem. I emailed mccalls and got this reply....more confused now. The piece you have is correct; you should have clipped as you were pinning the neckband to the garment. As this is a band, you will be placing the outside edge to the garment - not the neck edge, like a facing. The outside edge is attached to the dress, and you will need to clip as it states in the directions, where necessary. There aren’t any errors with this pattern - many people confuse a band with a facing and put it on wrong.
Anne, there is another sew along for this pattern. The comments on that sew along (its under ElinEstelle) are the same issues that I encountered. I didn't treat it as a facing (I actually wished they would have done that with this pattern), but as a neckband. I will say this, even the struggles with it, its worth it. Let me know how it goes once you make it.
Everything is super easy until you go to the part of the neck band! I messed up and now it doesn't sit right, and I did the sizing in the pattern, but is the mcCalls instructions that are super unclear on how to attach the interfaced part of the band. I tried to do it how you said but it wasn't fitting, so I still don't know what I did wrong.
I have just sewn on the neck band a second time and it is all pulling and stretched. Firstly I think the interfacing is a bit too thick for my fabric (viscose) and secondly, I didn't stitch from the centre back neck down to the hem on each side. I'll have to unpick it again. I might just end up making a blouse instead.😢
Sandra, its not you. Its the pattern!!!!! This is exactly what happens to everyone. It happened to me, and it literally happens to everyone that tries this pattern. Is there any way the you can even try to do this part by hand so you can keep the dress? I eventually did the back of the neck area by hand.
I had to put it aside for a few months. I hand sewed the band on but wasn't happy with the way it drooped in the front so I have just unpicked it again up to the shoulder seams. I will cut out longer front bands, then try to re-do it if I don't get angry and scream....wish me luck. I will let you know how I go. Yours turned out well so it gives me some hope. Also the size seems on the tight side.
After clipping the curves under the arms you said you finished them (was it with a serger?) Can u show pic of inside garment, under the arms? If u serged, does it cause puckering?
@@carolynnovak9952 I do it in this order, I trim the seam allowance, I clip the curves, I press it to make sure it doesn't ripple anymore, if it does, then I need to keep clipping the curves, then I serge.
I went on your website but no pattern reviews. First it talks about Joann flyer. Next Christmas gifts to make. Next section is designer patterns for holidays. Where do I find this pattern review!
@@nolacook7344 www.massonlifestyle.com/blog/adjustments-to-dawn-mccalls Hope that helps! AND lots of patience with this neckline and neckband altogether.
I just finished this dress and did not understand what I did wrong on the neck band. It fit but, when I went to sew it nothing landed properly. I was so frustrated and confused. I read the pattern and watched the video several times. It just didn’t turn correctly. I thought maybe I sewed the neckband pieces backwards or something. I finally just butchered the neckband enough to get the dress done. It looks okay but, I know it isn’t. I will still wear it and am bummed out that it was so darn difficult to make work.
I’m so sorry, I honestly am. I feel the exact same way. IT all feels pretty straight forward until you get to that neckband. Then it all looks like a hot mess. Just know, it’s not you, its the way this pattern was drafted. A facing would have been easier than doing this neckband. :/
That is very nice of you to help out all the larger women who want to make this pattern, like me.
Its a great pattern just make sure that you do a muslin and check on the neckband before you cut into your nice fabric.
I'm (very) new to sewing and picked out this pattern a few days ago. Upon opening it up for the first time I was a bit overwhelmed by all the different markings and what seemed like complex pieces, and despite the instructions, didn't really know where to start. Thank you so much for a very easy-to-follow tutorial, It made the process so much clearer and gave me the confidence to keep pursuing sewing!
Happy to read this Jade, if you have questions don’t hesitate to ask. I’m always happy to help.
Thank you so much! I’m not a beginner, but I was always lucky with a good pattern, and I couldn’t figure out what’s wrong with the neck band on my own! Next time I’ll probably make something with a pattern that you already posted here😆
I made this dress at the beginning of the summer for a wedding I attended and could not figure out what I did wrong with the neckband! I ended up making it work, but I can tell I could have made it better. This was so helpful, thank you!
Isn’t it terrible? My only issue is that McCalls keeps printing this pattern and doesn’t fix the pattern back neckband or changes the instructions. Its up to us to figure it out. And the worst part, its a great dress so I’m Pretty certain they are selling this pattern like hot cakes! All the while its not us… its the pattern! If it makes you feel any better, it took me a good two days of just messing with it and re doing it. And if anyone asks… I’m bitter about the extra half of yard of my pretty fabric that I had to re cut for the pieces no. 9 and 10.
I agree that Mccalls should have issued an apology and correct instructions! I still have beautiful fabric cut out (a year ago!) and waiting to be finished because of the error. With your help, I hope I can finish it at last!
I made a wearable muslin of this dress and French seamed it since the embroidered fabric was semi sheer. I had a slip that worked with it. I adjusted the pattern for a better fit for the next one. I will be making this dress a couple of more times with length variations and sleeve options.
its a beautiful dress. I can see myself making another one next summer with linen.
Your fabric is so beautiful. ❤
Bea, if you go to my blog I gave you a link to the fabric. It is as we fabric lovers say “delicious” truly a very nice fabric and it sews beautifully.
Own this pattern and my measurements are almost identical to yours! Thank you for sharing and doing the troubleshooting. I am less afraid now to try this one.
You can do it Monika!!!! Depending what fabric you are using (aka a rayon or lightweight woven) stabilize those seams around the neckline and the bodice right after you cut them.
Good to know, as I have this pattern - your blog post is very useful. It turned out cute on you!
Thanks for this sew along. I have this pattern and I’ve been avoiding it because of the bad reviews. I’m gonna give it a try soon.
You can do it Aleatha, show this pattern who is the boss. I know you can do it! Plus its gonna look so good on you.
Lovely fabric! Thanks for the excellent detailed demonstration of how to construct this dress and the possible pitfalls with the pattern. It’s a shame the manufacturers haven’t issued an updated error free version.
Thanks, it feels so nice against the skin. I thought I might need to line it bu nope didn’t have to.
Im making this for the third time. I find the front and neck part was confusing every time but I did get it. I did find the sizing was off so I had to make it bigger in the waist and it seemed big in the arm holes every time. I do like the dress because it is comfortable. I made covered buttons with fabric and added a big snap to close it up more on the neck.
I have this pattern but have been a little scared to make it. I'll have to watch your video again in the spring when I plan to make it. Thanks for doing this! Love your sewalongs! Would like to hear more about how you determined which size to make. I struggle with sizing in the big 4.
You are the second person that asks me about this. I suspect I may have to show you all more how I fit and what sizes I pick. The big four is a tough one, and I have to make quite a few adjustments to their patterns these days. I've talked about this with someone else who has a lot of experience sewing the big four and she said that as of late she has to make a LOT of adjustments to the patterns to fit her, not one but quite a few.
Rebecca, if you are ever hesitant about fit. Just grab some inexpensive muslin fabric and just sew it up. You will never regret that you did a muslin. Just to check for fit. By the time the dress comes around and you are cutting your good fabric you will be very happy you did. All the tricky bits will be over with and you can figure out weird stuff like the neckband on this.
Good point. Suck it up and do the muslin!
Are you considering a book? A book on sewing for those of us that may need a little more detailed instructions. I love the way you are so calm and methodical.
Thank you for your kind words. Right now writing a book its not really something I'm thinking about. I'm currently working on a sewing app for all of us. Hoping to release it soon.
I picked up the neck band problem doing a test fit with calico fabric. I re-cut the neck band from the back neck of the pattern piece. Otherwise the pattern is simple to sew, not many fitting issues for me other than I am short wasted.
Thank you for this ...greatly appreciated
Thank you for the sew along 👍🏻
Your welcome. Shif, go check out the blog before you cut any of the neckbands!!!!
Sure I’ll do. Thank you for taking your time and writing the blog post. I’m one of the viewers requested for a sew along for this pattern. This is really helpful. L
Alex I have another doubt. I would like to raise my neckline 2.5 inches more. Should I need to do any changes on neck band? I see you have raised yours by 1 inch and didn’t do any changes to the neck band.
Thank you
@@shif7905 My neckband just fit I just eased it in. HOWEVER with that being said. Raise your neckline on the bodice pattern. Then grab the neckband pattern piece , Set it on top of the new bodice pattern and redraw it. Remember that your neckband should follow the same width, its just going to be shifting over to the center more. I suspect you may not have to adjust it as long as you start at the top from zero so it meets the shoulder. I should probably write a blog post on this separately so you know what needs to change.
@@MassonLifestyle thanks lot for explaining. Will try. Yeah it will be beneficial if you do a blog post on it 😃
Thank you for all the time and effort you put into sewing, filming and editing this sew along. I’m certain that many will benefit. I was surprised that you didn’t stay stitch the neckline as a first step. I consider myself a confident beginner and I was under the impression that stay stitching any areas on the bias (necklines and armscyes) was best done at the outset to prevent any stretching. Perhaps it depends on the fabric? Or the pattern instructions did not have you do it at the beginning? I read your blog post just to learn about your fix. You explained it very well. The color of your dress is gorgeous on you. You look fabulous in it. 😊
Hi Denise, I did stay stitch the neck line! But I had to go back and redo the entire thing due to the neckband saga. Always stay stitch, Do not skip that step. Especially on this pattern because this thing is going to stretch when you are adding in that piece no. 9 and 10.
@@MassonLifestyle thanks, Alex. I did note that you stay stitched the neckline. My question had more to do with when you do it. I was taught to do it first thing. But it looks like you did it after gathering stitches and the shoulder and side seams. No criticism meant, just trying to understand best practices. 💕
@@denisedorsey2889 didn’t feel like a criticism at all! You should do it right when you cut the pattern. I just usually try to follow the instructions (which I’m going to start deviating more and more moving forward) because there are better means and methods out there, like the burrito method but none of these patterns show it. Some days I have so much to say…. like this pattern. Why hasn’t McCalls started an “errata” tab on their website? They really should.
@@MassonLifestyle Thanks for clarifying that for me. I’m learning that there are times when deviating from the “order of construction” given in patterns is called for. Again, thanks for all you do to help the sewing community.
Thank you so much!❤
I had trouble with the neck band it just did to fit in, the material is very movable, but I will keep at it.
So know it’s not you, it’s the pattern, they back piece is a little tricky.
I really appreciate this. Thank you!
Happy Sewing!
How do you finish the seam on the serger if you are clipping curves?
Thank you, I am new to apparel sewing. Your videos are helpful. Thank you
So sorry it took me so long to reply. So here we go. First off, make sure you clip those curves. You need to have that little gap of fabric in between so when you fold the facing over you don't have fabric bunching in that spot and to make sure that it lays flat. Now as far as the serger goes.... I do serge away. I just make sure to keep that little gap in between (so essentially I don't need it so it's so close to the other piece where I cut in). So if you do that, your serger will leave that fabric gap in between and it will lay flat. Just make sure you press! Pressing is key. Any time you have a curve you will have to clip those corners. Always! So think of armholes, facings around the back where it usually curves a lot. Let me know if you have any other questions! Please don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks you. I always want to hear about your fabric choices but miss where you find fabric and it’s content. Where would I get that information?
I put a link in the blog , this is a 100% viscose.
I haven't sewed it yet. Just cut all the pieces then saw the neckband problem. I emailed mccalls and got this reply....more confused now.
The piece you have is correct; you should have clipped as you were pinning the neckband to the garment. As this is a band, you will be placing the outside edge to the garment - not the neck edge, like a facing. The outside edge is attached to the dress, and you will need to clip as it states in the directions, where necessary. There aren’t any errors with this pattern - many people confuse a band with a facing and put it on wrong.
Anne, there is another sew along for this pattern. The comments on that sew along (its under ElinEstelle) are the same issues that I encountered. I didn't treat it as a facing (I actually wished they would have done that with this pattern), but as a neckband. I will say this, even the struggles with it, its worth it. Let me know how it goes once you make it.
Thank you very much
Everything is super easy until you go to the part of the neck band! I messed up and now it doesn't sit right, and I did the sizing in the pattern, but is the mcCalls instructions that are super unclear on how to attach the interfaced part of the band. I tried to do it how you said but it wasn't fitting, so I still don't know what I did wrong.
I have just sewn on the neck band a second time and it is all pulling and stretched. Firstly I think the interfacing is a bit too thick for my fabric (viscose) and secondly, I didn't stitch from the centre back neck down to the hem on each side. I'll have to unpick it again. I might just end up making a blouse instead.😢
Sandra, its not you. Its the pattern!!!!! This is exactly what happens to everyone. It happened to me, and it literally happens to everyone that tries this pattern. Is there any way the you can even try to do this part by hand so you can keep the dress? I eventually did the back of the neck area by hand.
and I will add, this is what I talk about in this video at the start. There is an issue with this pattern, and sadly you found it.
I had to put it aside for a few months. I hand sewed the band on but wasn't happy with the way it drooped in the front so I have just unpicked it again up to the shoulder seams. I will cut out longer front bands, then try to re-do it if I don't get angry and scream....wish me luck. I will let you know how I go. Yours turned out well so it gives me some hope. Also the size seems on the tight side.
After clipping the curves under the arms you said you finished them (was it with a serger?) Can u show pic of inside garment, under the arms? If u serged, does it cause puckering?
I did serge them, but first I trimmed the seam allowance and clipped the curves.
Forgot to add it does not cause puckering. That would drive me absolutely crazy.
So when you see, then clip curve and then serge the clipped curve, is there flexibility in the serged clipped curve?
@@carolynnovak9952 I do it in this order, I trim the seam allowance, I clip the curves, I press it to make sure it doesn't ripple anymore, if it does, then I need to keep clipping the curves, then I serge.
Came to the comments looking exactly for this question and answer ☺️
I went on your website but no pattern reviews. First it talks about Joann flyer. Next Christmas gifts to make. Next section is designer patterns for holidays. Where do I find this pattern review!
www.massonlifestyle.com/blog/adjustments-to-dawn-mccalls
Just checking, should the interfaced band end up on the outside and the un interfaced band on the inside?
www.massonlifestyle.com/blog/adjustments-to-dawn-mccalls i have pictures and an explanation in this blog
Where do i find details for neck facing adjustment please ,? The pattern piece doesn!t work!
@@nolacook7344 www.massonlifestyle.com/blog/adjustments-to-dawn-mccalls Hope that helps! AND lots of patience with this neckline and neckband altogether.
I just finished this dress and did not understand what I did wrong on the neck band. It fit but, when I went to sew it nothing landed properly. I was so frustrated and confused. I read the pattern and watched the video several times. It just didn’t turn correctly. I thought maybe I sewed the neckband pieces backwards or something. I finally just butchered the neckband enough to get the dress done. It looks okay but, I know it isn’t. I will still wear it and am bummed out that it was so darn difficult to make work.
I’m so sorry, I honestly am. I feel the exact same way. IT all feels pretty straight forward until you get to that neckband. Then it all looks like a hot mess. Just know, it’s not you, its the way this pattern was drafted. A facing would have been easier than doing this neckband. :/
go ahead...😁
Thankyou so much
@@nolacook7344 I hope you were able to make it and that it helped to get thru that neckband area.