Gday Olly, I brought a cheap set of these reamers quite some time ago a they’ve held up very well, mine seem to be on size and for the money I paid I’m really happy, thanks for sharing, cheers
Hi Matty, that's encouraging. I'm fairly sure the oversize of the hole is more a set up issue than the reamers being oversize, although if they are not quite ground evenly I expect they will want to wander in the hole?
If you want a little tighter fit, lubricate the reamer and run it into the hole and stop the spindle. Then draw it out. Treat the reaming operation the same as taking the final passes on a lathe. I always take two drilling operations, one to get it within 1/32 or 1mm, then a final drill to get the hole within a few thousandths and finish off with the light pass of the reamer (if you really care about the reamed hole). Of course it varies a little with the final hole size, but that's the idea.
Hi Dan, that's a good idea, they never come out round and drill bits are a bit too aggressive for 3d prints. I've made do by running the drill bit backwards.
@@ollysworkshop Thanks Olly. Yeah I can usually run the reamer through the print by hand. You said it well “they never come out round” LOL. Having good luck with printed small internal threads with likewise a quick once through with a tap straightens the roundness out. All the best Dan
I've never had much luck measuring reamers 'across the points' (I've collected a handful, some of which have no size on!). Sometimes the absolute size isn't important, so long as the hole is round, if you're making the part that fits in it that is. I have done it your way, only using silver steel rather than a drill shank as it's ground pretty round and to size give-or-take.
Hi Matt, apart from these I've just got a 1/4" and a 12mm, so wanted to flesh out the selection. Agree that I can work with the size of the holes, only a problem for existing shafts. No idea whether my method of measuring is the right way to do it, in theory the shank should be the same size, but I found them all a fair bit under.
That's interesting. So maybe it's a good idea for me to invest in these reamers. I never really needed to ream holes, but I suppose this can be a good start :)
That was my thinking. Also was wondering if a floating reamer holder would improve the accuracy by not holding it off line by a bit. Not measured my tailstock, but it does need adjustment as I can see the offset!
Good review Olly, for a home workshop, with the right application to suit their capabilities, you really can't go wrong at the price. Also, once they are beyond useful life, you get to make any number of smaller tools out of the stock. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jack, sorry for the delay. I got round to measuring the 10mm drilled hole - i tried two different drill bits actually, the first gave me a hole size of 10.25 and the second 10.1mm. Same material in the lathe, centre drilled, and then straight in with the final size drill bit. The surface finish that both left was poor (fine for a drilled hole, but poor compared to a reamed hole). I had done some footage of drilled holes (9mm holes, but i did them on the mill) that i decided not to include as the focus of the video was about how good the reamers were, rather than how they compared to drilling. Could be an idea for another video though. Thanks for your question.
That was interesting and very well presented. Looks like you got three more subscribers, imagine being stuck on the number of the beast!! Never bought tools off the internet yet but have often found that the cheap ones are rarely worthwhile. In Spanish they say "el barrato sale caro" ... "cheap is expensive" for 20 pounds they looked good quality if maybe not totally accurate. Good luck from Spain!!
Hi David, thanks for your comment. Looks like I've escaped the beast this time! I partly agree that cheap is not always the best for tools, but for things like sets of taps and reamers, it's nice to have a selection without breaking the bank, the ones that get used the most will get replaced with decent ones when they wear out, and the rarely used ones are there for the odd occasion that they are needed.
@@ollysworkshop Yes you're right it certainly gives a good starting point. I had in mind a set of taps and dies that I bought in Leroy Merlin (Dont think you have this shop in the UK like a B&Q but much bigger) at a bargain price but turned out to be very poor quality. I should have taken them back but some time had passed and I didnt have the receipt!!
I discovered +/- 0.4mm adjustable ones for about the same price - smallest possible being 1/4 inch (6mm) Also hand reaming should eliminate the run-out wobble of a fixed setup.
Next time, start with lathe having tail stock and chuck having dead centers in machine, razor blade between centers with tail stock all the way in, then all they way out, to prove that tail stock is trammed and running concentric with chuck and spindle to start with. then swap over to concentric end point in drill chuck for same test as well (to prove no run out in drill check in tail stock as well), before you start checking what the reamer is doing a machine. My guess, reamers are to spec, and the reason that its reaming so much larger, is tolerance stacking in the machine not being corrected. I bring this up, since can hear the twang as you pull the reamer out of the work piece, and proves that your machine has tolerance staking to begin with, which have not been resolved.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. I can't disagree that an aligned tailstock would be a good thing, but I have a chinese lathe on a sheet metal stand on a wooden shed floor - it moves, so any alignment quickly goes away. Also the tailstock quill sags considerably even when only slightly extended due to slop in the bore. This is the primary cause of the movement that you see. I have had some practice with the reamers since, and have found that drilling a bit smaller results in a much closer to size hole.
they are crap reamers. Bought 2-3 sets over time. The issue is they are not straight, they have run out and it will enlarge your bore over the tolerance limits.
Hi, thanks for your comment. It's a total lottery with cheap tools like these. I think the best use for these is for cleaning out holes in 3D prints (suggested by another viewer). I've tried this and it works really well. I got a load of proper reamers shortly after this video.
Gday Olly, I brought a cheap set of these reamers quite some time ago a they’ve held up very well, mine seem to be on size and for the money I paid I’m really happy, thanks for sharing, cheers
Hi Matty, that's encouraging. I'm fairly sure the oversize of the hole is more a set up issue than the reamers being oversize, although if they are not quite ground evenly I expect they will want to wander in the hole?
If you want a little tighter fit, lubricate the reamer and run it into the hole and stop the spindle. Then draw it out. Treat the reaming operation the same as taking the final passes on a lathe. I always take two drilling operations, one to get it within 1/32 or 1mm, then a final drill to get the hole within a few thousandths and finish off with the light pass of the reamer (if you really care about the reamed hole). Of course it varies a little with the final hole size, but that's the idea.
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks Olly. I had good luck as well using them for cleaning up bores in printed plastic parts.
Hi Dan, that's a good idea, they never come out round and drill bits are a bit too aggressive for 3d prints. I've made do by running the drill bit backwards.
@@ollysworkshop Thanks Olly. Yeah I can usually run the reamer through the print by hand. You said it well “they never come out round” LOL. Having good luck with printed small internal threads with likewise a quick once through with a tap straightens the roundness out.
All the best
Dan
I've never had much luck measuring reamers 'across the points' (I've collected a handful, some of which have no size on!). Sometimes the absolute size isn't important, so long as the hole is round, if you're making the part that fits in it that is. I have done it your way, only using silver steel rather than a drill shank as it's ground pretty round and to size give-or-take.
Hi Matt, apart from these I've just got a 1/4" and a 12mm, so wanted to flesh out the selection. Agree that I can work with the size of the holes, only a problem for existing shafts. No idea whether my method of measuring is the right way to do it, in theory the shank should be the same size, but I found them all a fair bit under.
For the money and the tolerance you found, they look like a good buy indeed. 👏👏👍😀
Hi Andrew, they are not bad at all, you just have to take the tolerance with a pinch of salt. Will be interesting to see how they hold up over time.
That's interesting. So maybe it's a good idea for me to invest in these reamers.
I never really needed to ream holes, but I suppose this can be a good start :)
That's what I thought, I like to have options.
Good to know Olly. They'll still be fine if you are machining the part fit inside it. Tony
That was my thinking. Also was wondering if a floating reamer holder would improve the accuracy by not holding it off line by a bit. Not measured my tailstock, but it does need adjustment as I can see the offset!
Good review Olly, for a home workshop, with the right application to suit their capabilities, you really can't go wrong at the price. Also, once they are beyond useful life, you get to make any number of smaller tools out of the stock. Cheers, Jon
Hi Jon, glad you liked it. I've just won a load of hopefully decent reamers on eBay, so I'll see how they compare.
would have been an interesting comparison to see what the 10mm drill bit gave you in the same material.
Hi Jack, sorry for the delay. I got round to measuring the 10mm drilled hole - i tried two different drill bits actually, the first gave me a hole size of 10.25 and the second 10.1mm. Same material in the lathe, centre drilled, and then straight in with the final size drill bit. The surface finish that both left was poor (fine for a drilled hole, but poor compared to a reamed hole). I had done some footage of drilled holes (9mm holes, but i did them on the mill) that i decided not to include as the focus of the video was about how good the reamers were, rather than how they compared to drilling. Could be an idea for another video though. Thanks for your question.
@@ollysworkshop sounds like the reamers definitely were the way to go then!
That was interesting and very well presented. Looks like you got three more subscribers, imagine being stuck on the number of the beast!!
Never bought tools off the internet yet but have often found that the cheap ones are rarely worthwhile. In Spanish they say "el barrato sale caro" ... "cheap is expensive" for 20 pounds they looked good quality if maybe not totally accurate.
Good luck from Spain!!
Hi David, thanks for your comment. Looks like I've escaped the beast this time! I partly agree that cheap is not always the best for tools, but for things like sets of taps and reamers, it's nice to have a selection without breaking the bank, the ones that get used the most will get replaced with decent ones when they wear out, and the rarely used ones are there for the odd occasion that they are needed.
@@ollysworkshop Yes you're right it certainly gives a good starting point. I had in mind a set of taps and dies that I bought in Leroy Merlin (Dont think you have this shop in the UK like a B&Q but much bigger) at a bargain price but turned out to be very poor quality. I should have taken them back but some time had passed and I didnt have the receipt!!
I discovered +/- 0.4mm adjustable ones for about the same price - smallest possible being 1/4 inch (6mm)
Also hand reaming should eliminate the run-out wobble of a fixed setup.
Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can find some!
This is interesting. It sounds like these are good for the money assuming that you are aware of the tolerance, as you mentioned
Definitely, considering you can easily spend £15 on one.
This is very informative. Looks like a really good deal.
Thanks, I'm hoping they last more than a couple of holes!
Interesting findings. For the money, they might be worth it. Curious to see how well they hold up over time.
Perhaps I'll follow up after some proper use.
Thanks Olly
No problem, hope you found it interesting or useful.
Next time, start with lathe having tail stock and chuck having dead centers in machine, razor blade between centers with tail stock all the way in, then all they way out, to prove that tail stock is trammed and running concentric with chuck and spindle to start with. then swap over to concentric end point in drill chuck for same test as well (to prove no run out in drill check in tail stock as well), before you start checking what the reamer is doing a machine.
My guess, reamers are to spec, and the reason that its reaming so much larger, is tolerance stacking in the machine not being corrected. I bring this up, since can hear the twang as you pull the reamer out of the work piece, and proves that your machine has tolerance staking to begin with, which have not been resolved.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. I can't disagree that an aligned tailstock would be a good thing, but I have a chinese lathe on a sheet metal stand on a wooden shed floor - it moves, so any alignment quickly goes away. Also the tailstock quill sags considerably even when only slightly extended due to slop in the bore. This is the primary cause of the movement that you see. I have had some practice with the reamers since, and have found that drilling a bit smaller results in a much closer to size hole.
Eyup Olly
👍👍👍👍👍👍
take care
Kev
Hi Kev, thanks for watching!
For heavens sake!
Now I've found something else I want to buy 🤪🤪
It's a slippery slope Neil. Looks like you're well greased up and already part way down!
@@ollysworkshop I'm going to have to start selling my body again to pay for this hobby.
Think a kidney as a starter ! 😊
@@NellsMechanicalManCave well you won't have a problem selling your body in Newport, but I don't think the rates are very good!
@@ollysworkshop I get top dollar you cheeky tart 🤣🤣🤣
they are crap reamers. Bought 2-3 sets over time. The issue is they are not straight, they have run out and it will enlarge your bore over the tolerance limits.
Hi, thanks for your comment. It's a total lottery with cheap tools like these. I think the best use for these is for cleaning out holes in 3D prints (suggested by another viewer). I've tried this and it works really well. I got a load of proper reamers shortly after this video.
Hello Olly,
An interesting video, I spotted "666" the other day... Nice that you've moved on from that.
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks Paul, onwards and upwards!