Thanks for another good one, Adam, you are a great teacher! I am 69 and have been model engineering for a year, learning much from you, Keith Rucker and Lyle P. Keep 'em coming!! John, Cardiff, Wales.
Yep, Dad's tools still live in Dad's box. I treat all that stuff like he's still around because in that way he is. Can't tell you how many times I've found what I needed to finish a project in his collection of scrap metal etc. Every time I smile and say "thanks Dad, you're still looking out for me!".
This is a really cool series of episodes. I think you're making a huge contribution to your trade. Word of mouth is the old school way of learning any trade, and your series is bringing those basic skills to a huge group of people in that old school way. (Maybe with fewer kicks in the butt.) Way to go, Mr. Booth.
My uncle was a machinist in early 80's and he has always had this great since of "patience". He has always told me "slow down what's the rush". It's something I see in you and your videos. Keep up the good work!
Perfect timing! I have been watching you and the Keiths and a lot of the other TH-cam machinists for a few years and I just bought my first lathe. You and the others are so generous with your time and talents. Thank you so very much.
Thanks for posting. I bought a medium size lathe 2 years ago, got enough tooling to start using it almost every day for my DIY projects. Your videos are much appreciated, plus you look like a nice guy.
Great video. I thought I knew all I needed about reamers until I watched this! Your take on cutting tools, inserts, angles etc would be a good topic I'd like to see.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So many Machinists nowadays don't like to share knowledge. So I really appreciate you taking the time to videos like this.
Thank you for reaming me out properly! Seriously, I appreciate the instructions. We have very few reamers and I realize now we have a Morse taper reamer that goes to our old drill press. Greg
Excellent tutorial. Cleared up a couple of things I didn't know. I do know not to turn a reamer backwards. A few years ago I ruined a set of adjustable reamer blades that way and, like they say, mistakes are the best teacher.
Adam, thanks alot bud for showing us newbies and teaching us through your videos. There is alot of things that I needed to figure out around the shop and I always go to your channel first. Thank you.
Thanks for making these videos. I know alot of the older guys probably already know this stuff, but its great info for the newer guys. Keep up the great work Adam!
Man you have a fortune in reamers ! I have a lot of reamers from a naval base and a lot of drill bits from there that were handed down to me by my uncle that worked at a naval base he was a machinist there from WW2 until 1987 and he was one of the greatest machinist ever! I take pride in using these tools and taking good care of them! I tried figuring up the value of what all these reamer and drill bits would cost and what I came up with half way through is more money than I have ever thought of having in my life time!
Thanks Adam. I have the same drawer full of adjustable reamers that were passed down. I have always treated that drawer as sacred ground. Never used them. As a result of your post, I am going to give-em a go. Thanks again for the time and info.
I was not aware of "never" reversing a reamer which makes perfect sense. Thanks much. It is the same for a file and I often see TH-cam videos where a file is used in a scrubbing action by someone working on a project. Aargh!!!!!!!! Always love the "Abom Torque" reference which is self explanatory.
I was going through my inherited tools this morning and found a big beautiful set of these funny looking drill bits which I now know to be reamers. Thanks for the vid.
Thanks for the video, I bought a bunch of tooling from a friend who needed some cash and have been trying to learn as I go along. Not easy at all but thank god for yt and people like yourself, K Rutcker and pete222. The simple videos are sometimes the most helpful. Keep up the good work and remember not all of us are machinist and I will continue to watch and learn.
Hello from France Adam and thank you for this very interesting video. You mentioned that you don't rely on the reamer for precision hole. For precision reaming with accuracy close to 0,01mm, you can use a floatting chuck. Its a pricy extra accessory, but can be found for adapting on a Lathe tailstock (reamer is fixed) or milling spindle (reamer is turning). It's used to correct misalignement between the axis of the spindle (or tailstock) and the hole to ream. It also gives the advantage of letting the reamer following the true axis of the hole. Generally speaking, the reaming using floatting chuck can have the tolerance of the reamer itself. Floatting chucks can be found with Collet MT or straight flange mounting, and reamers can be mounted with ER Collets, or MT attachments. Some models can even allow internal coolants to pass through. Have a good day ! François
Great video. I'm new at this and you explained a lot to me. Thanks again. The question I had was answered by you already when someone asked when to use a reamer. Great videos. Thanks for not forgetting about us new guys. Enjoy your videos a lot.
I was looking for info for pull reaming and the reaming stock allowance/removal, but I appreciate the additional knowledge about reamers. Thank you sir
Love your videos. Stumbled on to the machinist type channels with Keith Fenner and Keith Rucker. Found yours as well. So I started with your first and worked my way up to this year so still catching up. Your videos are easy watching and full of information. Even though I don't do any machining it has changed how I tackle problems I may deal with on a day to day basis. Basics are always good especially for people like myself Many Thanks Adam
I have cleaned up the tailstock on 2 lathes with that tapered reamer you showed. Worked well as they were not gripping because of burs, but after they did.
not a problem for you and me though. my friend call me when they want me to put the mule on it . most of my friends are tiny folks lol. still fun to watch thoses light weight guys hang on the wrench
Hey Adam great video as usual. After getting rid of some of my Dad's machinist tools (He was machine shop foreeman at CIL industries in Edmonton Alberta) I now truly regret it. Suggest you keep what you got for your future kids. Things change in time sometime things happen really fast when one's not expecting it. Rod
one thing I'd like to add is, if at all possible don't peck with a reamer, you'll end up with a bigger hole, I don't know why that's just my experience. thank you Adam. loving the content. keep it up!
robert hughes You never peck with a reamer. It will screw up the hole every time. In gunsmithing to chamber a rifle barrel, you use a high pressure flushing system to flush the chips ahead of the chambering reamer for this very reason if you are doing precision chambering. Excellent comment.
Great job Adam! This will be a great series. I would suggest creating a "Tooling Basics" playlist for all of these videos to make it a little easier for people to find everything and have it all in one place. Thanks for freely sharing your knowledge and experience as is appreciated. Open Source knowledge, software, and hardware in the way of the future and we are in the early stage of implementing all three. Peace!
Good video, Adam . I was digging thru old videos hoping to find "salvation" for my reaming . I like you could never find reliable accuracy with my reamers . I was dead-sure I must have been doing something wrong -- could never find a solution to reliably get any better than a thousandth or two -- would always have to rely on honing . Got a "kick" out of seeing your inherited reamer-drawer ! ...... looked very familiar . It's is amazing the weight those old lower boxes could handle -- albeit, not without a little distortion .
sometimes you can use a box socket as a handle by turning it upside down and placing it on to the reaming tool, get 12" of bar and weld to a nut in the centre, then put the nut inside the socket, use the square drive size 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" n so on that fits your reaming tool size, this should be as good as any handle an hopefully it helps somebody thanks for the vid Abom👍
That was a great presentation boss thank you. Im new to machining. I. Restoring a 1966 f-100 pick up and needing to learn stuff like reaming kingpin bushings and such az a lot of shops wont do it. Great video👍
Thanks Adam you confirmed something I felt for many years now. I’ve been in the trade for a little while now, about 38 years, and I like you do not use the reamers for the reason that I don’t trust they will cut an accurate size hole. I just settle on boring the hole instead of possibly scraping a part.
Good overview Adam, I'm glad you mentioned the chuck / collet holding thing I've been burned by that before using a drill chuck instead of a collet especially for smaller sizes. I would have liked to hear your thoughts on the actual operation in a machine, like pecking or not and speed, etc.
Yes, I've heard different things like you should not peck drill with a reamer, etc. Also I've been told about %2-%3 is what you want to leave for the reamer to cut.
I've cheated and used a center punch chucked in a drill press as a guide before. Same idea as a spring loaded tap follower, but I didn't have one of those on hand. It keeps the back end of the reamer from wandering around. Thanks for the info. Never knew what the sprial reamers were for. I always figured it was something for heavier cuts to clear chips.
A solid center point works just as good or better, but you have to keep a hand on the quill handle to use it. I've done it that way countless times for tapping holes.
When I was taught in school they always said half the drilling speed and double the feed. Works Ok but I always slow it down even more. Was reaming 3/8 holes in stainless a couple weeks back, was getting a almost mirror like finish @ 85 rpm.
The beauty of a tapered pin is it will release very easy as opposed to a straight dowel, and in toolmaking of die blocks to shoes as in progression dies for instance, a threaded ejector hole will release the die block immediately, straight dowels need to be completely driven out with a hammer and punch, plus two parts taper doweled together can be realigned (moved) into alignment by re-reaming, you can't do that with a standard straight dowel if the alignment is not exactly spot on its time to go with an oversize, I have used tapered dowels recently on several tools I have built, they might be old fashioned now but I think they look much better than a set screw to locate a hand wheel on a shaft, and they work great, Edmund...........Alberta
I have 4 of those adjustable reamers hanging on my shop wall.. Never used them, didnt realy know how to use them. You can use a socket with 12 dividers and a sliding t-bar on those big 4 siders
Thanks for the info! Reamers can be a mystery. I will add to also make sure you measure your reamers carefully before using them. I had the need to ream a 1" hole. I had 4 1" reamers. Only one of them was actually 1". Even though they all said 1". They were gathered from who knows where and a couple looked re ground. Thanks again!
Great video Adam! Thanks. I know that I have seen better than 90% of your videos but have you done one on end mill cutter? More specifically the purpose of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6... flutes? i.e. What material they are good for and whether are better for roughing or finishing? I hope I am asking that correctly. Again thanks for all you do!
i have a question is it better to predrillwith different drill sizes ? (small diam and mid diameter) for taper reamer ? or drill straight minimum diameter and then the ramer ?
Adam, How sharp is a reamer and can one sharpen one? It would seem to me that throwing them in a drawer where they rub together would dull them. Would not organizing them keep them in best shape?
Henry Carr Most reamers have center holes in the ends to hold them between centers on a Tool and cutter grinder to sharpen them. This is the only way true accuracy can be obtained. Throw all of your cutting tools together in a drawer if you want to nick them up, especially reamers.
Hey Adam, what about speeds and feeds when reaming in a machine, I was always taught low and slow, that you run a reamer at 1/3rd of its drilling speed as a rule of thumb, yet I've seen guys I work with run them at the same speed as they would drill at. What would you recommend?
You mentioned not trusting a reamer to hold close tolerance. We had some aluminum parts at my work, about 100 of them. They had a 5/8 inch hole that had to be held at +/- 0.0005. We used a Hannibal Carbide tipped reamer. And the cutting fluid made a huge difference. With heavy cutting oil, it reamed over sized. But with WD-40, it worked like a charm.
Ran the reamer in a collet. The quill spring is broke on our manual mill. Ran the reamer at about 500 RPM and let the weight of the quill push the reamer. 500 seems fast, but Carbide tipped reamer in Aluminum. If I remember correctly, that 500 was still well below what Hannibal Carbide recommended. Oh, and the hole was drilled at about 0.612 diameter.
does the adjustable blade reamer only cut in one direction? what I mean is if you turn it to the right it will cut but it won't cut when turned to the left? Is that the case?
You say you don't like to rely on reamers for precision holes then what do you use? I thought that was the intended purpose of a reamer. I've also had problems getting a precisely reamed hole myself but haven't figured out a better way. Kinda figured I was just doin something wrong.
For me fixed reamers are ok for reaming to precise size hardened shafts but for axles I turn I'm just not that good I can size the shaft well enough to use a fixed reamer and need that adjustability to give me some wiggle room to ream to clearance I want.
I know this is a 3 year old video, but I couldn't help commenting. My grand dad and dad were both tool & die makers. My dad was an apprentice just before WWII. I have many of their tools including my dad's Gerstner filled with precision tooling. I open the green felt-lined drawers with a weird reverence and can hardly bring myself to use the tools in my crude metalworking attempts.
Watching these kind of videos ensures I will never be able to retire as all my savings constantly gets diverted to more tooling!
I wouldn't think there's too much cash left after your barn build.. haha
Money has certainly been going out faster than it comes in!
Isn't that Baily's retirement???
The barn will be Bailys rest home:-)
@@bcbloc02 I thought that was your rest home!
I haven't had anyone to guide me, you're my mentor Adam! Thanks for taking the time to mentor me :)
Thanks for another good one, Adam, you are a great teacher! I am 69 and have been model engineering for a year, learning much from you, Keith Rucker and Lyle P. Keep 'em coming!! John, Cardiff, Wales.
Love the "dad" draws. I've got the same. Can't bring myself to change them. It's like keeping a part of your father in the shop.
Well said Josh. I even have grandpa’s drawers! And he died in 1969.
Yep, Dad's tools still live in Dad's box. I treat all that stuff like he's still around because in that way he is. Can't tell you how many times I've found what I needed to finish a project in his collection of scrap metal etc. Every time I smile and say "thanks Dad, you're still looking out for me!".
@@animoetprudentia2865 Didn't come here for feels man.
@@TheTurbineEngineer too bad Sally. You get no apology from me!
@@animoetprudentia2865 I was being sarcastic...
This is a really cool series of episodes. I think you're making a huge contribution to your trade. Word of mouth is the old school way of learning any trade, and your series is bringing those basic skills to a huge group of people in that old school way. (Maybe with fewer kicks in the butt.) Way to go, Mr. Booth.
I know they are basic but there are viewers who enjoy them and can help them out.
My uncle was a machinist in early 80's and he has always had this great since of "patience". He has always told me "slow down what's the rush". It's something I see in you and your videos. Keep up the good work!
Perfect timing! I have been watching you and the Keiths and a lot of the other TH-cam machinists for a few years and I just bought my first lathe. You and the others are so generous with your time and talents. Thank you so very much.
Thanks for posting. I bought a medium size lathe 2 years ago, got enough tooling to start using it almost every day for my DIY projects. Your videos are much appreciated, plus you look like a nice guy.
Great video. I thought I knew all I needed about reamers until I watched this! Your take on cutting tools, inserts, angles etc would be a good topic I'd like to see.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So many Machinists nowadays don't like to share knowledge. So I really appreciate you taking the time to videos like this.
Don"t mess with the tool box!!! That makes you think about your dad every time you get in there. Another great video. Thanks
Thank you for reaming me out properly! Seriously, I appreciate the instructions. We have very few reamers and I realize now we have a Morse taper reamer that goes to our old drill press. Greg
It is awesome to learn something new from one half my age. I thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Cleared up a couple of things I didn't know. I do know not to turn a reamer backwards. A few years ago I ruined a set of adjustable reamer blades that way and, like they say, mistakes are the best teacher.
Adam, thanks alot bud for showing us newbies and teaching us through your videos. There is alot of things that I needed to figure out around the shop and I always go to your channel first. Thank you.
Thanks for making these videos. I know alot of the older guys probably already know this stuff, but its great info for the newer guys. Keep up the great work Adam!
Man you have a fortune in reamers ! I have a lot of reamers from a naval base and a lot of drill bits from there that were handed down to me by my uncle that worked at a naval base he was a machinist there from WW2 until 1987 and he was one of the greatest machinist ever! I take pride in using these tools and taking good care of them! I tried figuring up the value of what all these reamer and drill bits would cost and what I came up with half way through is more money than I have ever thought of having in my life time!
I am from India 🇮🇳... Great theory over Reamers Sir.. U Solve my confusion when I reading Reamer and their Uses over my book.. 🙏
Thanks Adam. I have the same drawer full of adjustable reamers that were passed down. I have always treated that drawer as sacred ground. Never used them. As a result of your post, I am going to give-em a go. Thanks again for the time and info.
There's a lot to be said for keeping things the same. I respect this way that you honor your father.
This is an exceptionally informative video, Adam. Thank you. You are a great instructor.
I was not aware of "never" reversing a reamer which makes perfect sense. Thanks much. It is the same for a file and I often see TH-cam videos where a file is used in a scrubbing action by someone working on a project. Aargh!!!!!!!!
Always love the "Abom Torque" reference which is self explanatory.
I was going through my inherited tools this morning and found a big beautiful set of these funny looking drill bits which I now know to be reamers. Thanks for the vid.
Wow man...you are blessed with being a machinist and having so many good quality tools in your incredible workshop
Thank You, for the info on these different reamers. Every time I watch your vid's, I learn something new. Thanks Again!!!!!
Never gave reaming much thought till I needed one, now I'm learning all I can. You gave some valuable information, thanks.
thank you sir very very much for taking the time to share your skills i am starting at the very beginning at 50 rears of age i have a lot to learn
Thanks for the video, I bought a bunch of tooling from a friend who needed some cash and have been trying to learn as I go along. Not easy at all but thank god for yt and people like yourself, K Rutcker and pete222. The simple videos are sometimes the most helpful. Keep up the good work and remember not all of us are machinist and I will continue to watch and learn.
Hello from France Adam and thank you for this very interesting video. You mentioned that you don't rely on the reamer for precision hole. For precision reaming with accuracy close to 0,01mm, you can use a floatting chuck. Its a pricy extra accessory, but can be found for adapting on a Lathe tailstock (reamer is fixed) or milling spindle (reamer is turning). It's used to correct misalignement between the axis of the spindle (or tailstock) and the hole to ream. It also gives the advantage of letting the reamer following the true axis of the hole. Generally speaking, the reaming using floatting chuck can have the tolerance of the reamer itself. Floatting chucks can be found with Collet MT or straight flange mounting, and reamers can be mounted with ER Collets, or MT attachments. Some models can even allow internal coolants to pass through. Have a good day ! François
+vbidou17 I have a floating chuck for the lathes, it's for Morse taper shanks and work great for teaming. I'll have to show that one.
Thank you Adam. I have just found it in SNS 70 !
Great video. I'm new at this and you explained a lot to me. Thanks again. The question I had was answered by you already when someone asked when to use a reamer. Great videos. Thanks for not forgetting about us new guys. Enjoy your videos a lot.
Adam, this was a very informative video. Nice work!
I was looking for info for pull reaming and the reaming stock allowance/removal, but I appreciate the additional knowledge about reamers. Thank you sir
Love your videos. Stumbled on to the machinist type channels with Keith Fenner and Keith Rucker. Found yours as well.
So I started with your first and worked my way up to this year so still catching up.
Your videos are easy watching and full of information. Even though I don't do any machining it has changed how I tackle problems I may deal with on a day to day basis.
Basics are always good especially for people like myself
Many Thanks Adam
Thanks for uploading these basic videos! I love to see cool basic stuff like this explained in a way an average joe can understand.
I have cleaned up the tailstock on 2 lathes with that tapered reamer you showed. Worked well as they were not gripping because of burs, but after they did.
Ahhhh, great video for the work week. Came home from work and school to see the notification. Always good to see. Thanks Adam!
+Brian Streufert Thanks Brian. I'm always happy to help make your week a little better. 👍🏻
Really enjoyed your lesson on reamers Adam. A lot to learn.
perfect timing. thank you Abom!
Hey Brian, could not agree more re tooling and thanks for sharing Adam for sharing. Kindest regards. Joe.
Once again, beautiful stuff. Crystal clear and I just keep learning. THANK YOU!
did not know about turning a reamer backwards,good thing I watched this!
The more you know
Ty so much for all you do. Trying to keep my teenager on str8 and narrow he likes your videos
I get a chuckle every time you say Abom torque cause I am reminded of Keith Fenner hanging on that ratchet yelling Adam quick i need help lolol
+Scott Tyndall's Home Shop Some of the guys joke about that too cause they don't have enough ass to move a wrench. 😆
+Scott Tyndall's Home Shop Some of the guys joke about that too cause they don't have enough ass to move a wrench. 😆
not a problem for you and me though. my friend call me when they want me to put the mule on it . most of my friends are tiny folks lol. still fun to watch thoses light weight guys hang on the wrench
Thanks for the great instructions, Adam! I learned many things new to me.
Hey Adam great video as usual. After getting rid of some of my Dad's machinist tools (He was machine shop foreeman at CIL industries in Edmonton Alberta) I now truly regret it. Suggest you keep what you got for your future kids. Things change in time sometime things happen really fast when one's not expecting it. Rod
Getting ready to buy some reamers and needed more knowledge. Great stuff for a new to machining guy, Thanks Adam.
one thing I'd like to add is, if at all possible don't peck with a reamer, you'll end up with a bigger hole, I don't know why that's just my experience. thank you Adam. loving the content. keep it up!
robert hughes You never peck with a reamer. It will screw up the hole every time. In gunsmithing to chamber a rifle barrel, you use a high pressure flushing system to flush the chips ahead of the chambering reamer for this very reason if you are doing precision chambering. Excellent comment.
Great job Adam! This will be a great series. I would suggest creating a "Tooling Basics" playlist for all of these videos to make it a little easier for people to find everything and have it all in one place. Thanks for freely sharing your knowledge and experience as is appreciated. Open Source knowledge, software, and hardware in the way of the future and we are in the early stage of implementing all three.
Peace!
+Jeffrey Vastine Thanks for the suggestions Jeff. 👍🏻
Thanks for this informative video, I used a reamer a few times but good to learn about the different styles.
thank you, on behalf of all us newbs! :-)
Hey Adam i dont get enough of watching your videos, they are very useful to me. Oh i almost forgot say hello to Brasil.
Hello! Glad your enjoying the videos.
Good video, Adam . I was digging thru old videos hoping to find "salvation" for my reaming . I like you could never find reliable accuracy with my reamers . I was dead-sure I must have been doing something wrong -- could never find a solution to reliably get any better than a thousandth or two -- would always have to rely on honing . Got a "kick" out of seeing your inherited reamer-drawer ! ...... looked very familiar . It's is amazing the weight those old lower boxes could handle -- albeit, not without a little distortion .
Great topic Abom. Thank you for sharing your knowledge have never had someone explain reams and shown the difference between the many types. GW
sometimes you can use a box socket as a handle by turning it upside down and placing it on to the reaming tool, get 12" of bar and weld to a nut in the centre, then put the nut inside the socket, use the square drive size 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" n so on that fits your reaming tool size, this should be as good as any handle an hopefully it helps somebody
thanks for the vid Abom👍
you give the best information of anyone out there. Really enjoy your video's.
+Garrett Montgomery Thanks Garrett. I do what I can even though I don't have the skills of the fancy Hollywood editing...😁
thanks Adom79, these intro videos are great for us non-pro's.
Thank you Adam, I appreciate you talking about basics like this. Thanks again!
There is a roughing morse taper reamer you use initially to cut the taper then finish it with that hand reamer.
That was a great presentation boss thank you. Im new to machining. I. Restoring a 1966 f-100 pick up and needing to learn stuff like reaming kingpin bushings and such az a lot of shops wont do it. Great video👍
Good one Adam. Thank you for this great video.
Abom, thanks for these videos, I appreciate the two wrench reamer handle solution. I will definitely use it in the future.
Just starting out in class.. THANK YOU for starting out basics !!!!!!!
Thanks Adam you confirmed something I felt for many years now. I’ve been in the trade for a little while now, about 38 years, and I like you do not use the reamers for the reason that I don’t trust they will cut an accurate size hole. I just settle on boring the hole instead of possibly scraping a part.
Very informative Adam ! I have only used reamers to do valve work on heads .. Thumbs up
Good overview Adam, I'm glad you mentioned the chuck / collet holding thing I've been burned by that before using a drill chuck instead of a collet especially for smaller sizes. I would have liked to hear your thoughts on the actual operation in a machine, like pecking or not and speed, etc.
Bill De La Vega You talking about actually teaming a hole in the machine Bill?
Yes, I've heard different things like you should not peck drill with a reamer, etc. Also I've been told about %2-%3 is what you want to leave for the reamer to cut.
great vid bud, always cool seeing different stuff...
Been using reamers for years and I learned a thing or two on here tonight. Evidently I've been doing a few things wrong for years. LOL
I've cheated and used a center punch chucked in a drill press as a guide before. Same idea as a spring loaded tap follower, but I didn't have one of those on hand. It keeps the back end of the reamer from wandering around.
Thanks for the info. Never knew what the sprial reamers were for. I always figured it was something for heavier cuts to clear chips.
A solid center point works just as good or better, but you have to keep a hand on the quill handle to use it. I've done it that way countless times for tapping holes.
Good descriptive video Adam. Nicely done.
new subscriber here @ 20:35 I was waiting for you to mention that part!! that should be like the 1st advise. Great content.
Great video
Looking to see what size reamer is used for a 1971 f100 king pin.?
Trying not to have to purchase a whole set. On a tight budget.
Thanks.
Excellent detailed description, Adam, thanks!
my understanding of adjustable reamers is that aside from compensating for sharpening you can also tune in running or press fit etc.
AbomTorque! Get some! Thanks for the highly informative details.
Thanks for recognizing us beginners!
Thanks for the help for as you said some of us are new to this world.
thanks for the informative video that explains the tools and the reasons to use them all. Great for the beginners like me :)
Thank you for this. The vid on taps was great too.
When I was taught in school they always said half the drilling speed and double the feed. Works Ok but I always slow it down even more.
Was reaming 3/8 holes in stainless a couple weeks back, was getting a almost mirror like finish @ 85 rpm.
Love the old tool boxes!
Enjoyed the video quite a bit!
The beauty of a tapered pin is it will release very easy as opposed to a straight dowel, and in toolmaking of die blocks to shoes as in progression dies for instance, a threaded ejector hole will release the die block immediately, straight dowels need to be completely driven out with a hammer and punch, plus two parts taper doweled together can be realigned (moved) into alignment by re-reaming, you can't do that with a standard straight dowel if the alignment is not exactly spot on its time to go with an oversize, I have used tapered dowels recently on several tools I have built, they might be old fashioned now but I think they look much better than a set screw to locate a hand wheel on a shaft, and they work great,
Edmund...........Alberta
I have 4 of those adjustable reamers hanging on my shop wall.. Never used them, didnt realy know how to use them.
You can use a socket with 12 dividers and a sliding t-bar on those big 4 siders
Thanks for the info! Reamers can be a mystery.
I will add to also make sure you measure your reamers carefully before using them. I had the need to ream a 1" hole. I had 4 1" reamers. Only one of them was actually 1". Even though they all said 1". They were gathered from who knows where and a couple looked re ground.
Thanks again!
TODD FINK Yep, good point. I have several that are regrinds and they size was scribed onto the shank.
Recently had to buy 3.0mm and 3.3mm reamers. I guess this video is for me :-) I'm excited! *starts watching*
Great video Adam! Thanks. I know that I have seen better than 90% of your videos but have you done one on end mill cutter? More specifically the purpose of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6... flutes? i.e. What material they are good for and whether are better for roughing or finishing? I hope I am asking that correctly. Again thanks for all you do!
i have a question
is it better to predrillwith different drill sizes ? (small diam and mid diameter) for taper reamer ?
or drill straight minimum diameter and then the ramer ?
Lol! Every other video we hear sirens blasting. Great video on reamers.
+Michael Rogers You always will. I live next to a busy road where everyone travels through town.
Adam, How sharp is a reamer and can one sharpen one? It would seem to me that throwing them in a drawer where they rub together would dull them. Would not organizing them keep them in best shape?
Henry Carr Most reamers have center holes in the ends to hold them between centers on a Tool and cutter grinder to sharpen them. This is the only way true accuracy can be obtained. Throw all of your cutting tools together in a drawer if you want to nick them up, especially reamers.
Hey Adam, what about speeds and feeds when reaming in a machine, I was always taught low and slow, that you run a reamer at 1/3rd of its drilling speed as a rule of thumb, yet I've seen guys I work with run them at the same speed as they would drill at. What would you recommend?
You mentioned not trusting a reamer to hold close tolerance. We had some aluminum parts at my work, about 100 of them. They had a 5/8 inch hole that had to be held at +/- 0.0005. We used a Hannibal Carbide tipped reamer. And the cutting fluid made a huge difference. With heavy cutting oil, it reamed over sized. But with WD-40, it worked like a charm.
Good to know. I'd like to test that out sometime.
Ran the reamer in a collet. The quill spring is broke on our manual mill. Ran the reamer at about 500 RPM and let the weight of the quill push the reamer. 500 seems fast, but Carbide tipped reamer in Aluminum. If I remember correctly, that 500 was still well below what Hannibal Carbide recommended. Oh, and the hole was drilled at about 0.612 diameter.
Very interesting & informative keep it up Adam
What kind of speed do you want to use on aluminum holes and also copper bushings?
does the adjustable blade reamer only cut in one direction? what I mean is if you turn it to the right it will cut but it won't cut when turned to the left? Is that the case?
You say you don't like to rely on reamers for precision holes then what do you use? I thought that was the intended purpose of a reamer. I've also had problems getting a precisely reamed hole myself but haven't figured out a better way. Kinda figured I was just doin something wrong.
hershal jones - I also have this exact same question and am intrigued to hear what he does for more precision!
Cheers
Reamers are good to enlarge a hole, is the a tool to bring down in size, example: bring down from 0.625 to 0.500 a stud that is in place ?
I liked this video a lot. well balanced for everyone. (I think) thanks for taking the time.
For me fixed reamers are ok for reaming to precise size hardened shafts but for axles I turn I'm just not that good I can size the shaft well enough to use a fixed reamer and need that adjustability to give me some wiggle room to ream to clearance I want.
Abom rules! thanks for the quality vids!
I know this is a 3 year old video, but I couldn't help commenting. My grand dad and dad were both tool & die makers. My dad was an apprentice just before WWII. I have many of their tools including my dad's Gerstner filled with precision tooling. I open the green felt-lined drawers with a weird reverence and can hardly bring myself to use the tools in my crude metalworking attempts.