Actualy the answer is YES you can, but you used it wrong way. You should use centering cone to build support on the longer side of the shaft and then try to cut hole. You also shuld slowly advance this tool in the bore (1/4 - 1/2 rotation max at once then rotate about 3 times and andvance the tool). Do not hitt it or roll backwards! You did it and propably alredy damaged the tool so you get poor effect.
How are the bushings at the arm / coupler junction. They always wore a lot more due to being in the dirt all the time. Case made the pins and bushings out of hard metal to slow the wear.
The cylinder rod will not extend straight out as there is a small amount of give in the seals on the piston and gland, especially as you extend the cylinder all the way out. The rod eye is supported by the loader arm attachment. The eye does need bushings that press fit in after you've bored it. If you don't want to weld them in, perhaps you can build up the outer diameter, then turn down to tight fit with your lathe. A tight fit is the only thing holding the bushings in place inside the rod eye.
The reamer ended up being a complete failure and waste of money. I ended up buying a professional three stone hone and cobbled up a homemade line bore setup to fix all the slop. This machine will be tight after I'm done.
I think that will work. How do you set it up to be square with the cylinder as it would be installed position? Maybe fab up some guide plates and tack weld outside . Use an old school speed wrench with a wobble and tap socket to drive the reamer or 1/2 inch drill???
The answer is no you really can’t line bore with a reamer. The more egg shaped the hole the worse this works. Learned the hard way
Actualy the answer is YES you can, but you used it wrong way. You should use centering cone to build support on the longer side of the shaft and then try to cut hole.
You also shuld slowly advance this tool in the bore (1/4 - 1/2 rotation max at once then rotate about 3 times and andvance the tool). Do not hitt it or roll backwards! You did it and propably alredy damaged the tool so you get poor effect.
Sometimes torch out the old bush from the lift arm and weld in new bush stock. Drill and tap for grease zerks
Been an interesting project! Looking forward to more videos
How are the bushings at the arm / coupler junction. They always wore a lot more due to being in the dirt all the time. Case made the pins and bushings out of hard metal to slow the wear.
I think one of the videos covers it but they were toast. I ended up line boring the arms out and making custom bushings from 52100 bearing steel.
The cylinder rod will not extend straight out as there is a small amount of give in the seals on the piston and gland, especially as you extend the cylinder all the way out. The rod eye is supported by the loader arm attachment. The eye does need bushings that press fit in after you've bored it. If you don't want to weld them in, perhaps you can build up the outer diameter, then turn down to tight fit with your lathe. A tight fit is the only thing holding the bushings in place inside the rod eye.
The reamer ended up being a complete failure and waste of money. I ended up buying a professional three stone hone and cobbled up a homemade line bore setup to fix all the slop. This machine will be tight after I'm done.
I think that will work. How do you set it up to be square with the cylinder as it would be installed position? Maybe fab up some guide plates and tack weld outside . Use an old school speed wrench with a wobble and tap socket to drive the reamer or 1/2 inch drill???
They really aren’t that bad I’m just being a perfectionist but I hear you about removing the bushing if it was worn badly.