As an acrylic artist coming from a Bob Ross background many years ago. it took me quite a lot of experimentation to get my acrylics looking like oil. Then along came water soluble oils! The first ones tended to be tacky and annoying to work with, so I went back to acrylics. The science of paint manufacturing in both WS oils and Open acrylics have come a long way with pleasing results. The one thing I really like about acrylics is that you can paint over them with both oil or acrylics.
I'm brand new to the world of painting and haven't yet even begun my first actual painting. I've been mostly watching countless tutorials on the very basics before I really sit down and apply focus. This very issue has been a topic that I've been uncertain about, and it's one that few other channels actually touch on. At least with any degree of detail. Thank you very much, brother - this video has been a great information asset!
I am glad I can help you out on your new painting adventure - I have a ton of great videos for new painters.. Hit that sub button and you will get to see more of my handsome face help you out 🔥
I’ve got a nude in water mixables with a burnt umber underpainting coming up. Two commissions to finish first though. I have it sketched out, but that’s about it at this time. 😜
The left side is using Liquid White made from WM white oil paint and WM linseed oil. The right side is using Liquid White made from WM white oil paint and water ONLY. Hope that helpss.
I have two video that might help ya. I will attach them below: Painting water with a knife: th-cam.com/video/eAF11qd6EqQ/w-d-xo.html Simple Ocean wave tutorial: th-cam.com/video/840auItvXLI/w-d-xo.html
What I like to do is use Water for the underpainting and use the Medium as I get thicker on the paint. It's really great to see more and more artists work with water mixable oils since it's a great way to work with oils on a limited space. I still have to figure out the drying times for WM Oils and definitely should check out that solvant free Gel you're using, since I have not heard of it.
The Solvent free gel is awesome - I highly recommend it. Drying times for WM oils are almost the same as normal oils... In my opinion, WM oils dry a tad faster.
I just started oil painting. I have been painting watercolor for years, but wanted to try something new (for me). I bought water mixable oils because of the easy cleanup and less chemicals
The verdict is still out, but I love there is no smell and easy clean up. It’s a different animal than watercolor and I haven’t mastered the learning curve yet. ( but am making slow progress)
I am currently working on a Simple WM Oil painting tutorial. So maybe that will help you when it drops. It is still a few weeks out so be sure to hit that sub button in the mean time to know when it will go live :)
Hi Wild! I have purchased items through the links that you provide. Once I'm re-directed to Amazon, will you get credit for everything I buy or do I need to click on each of the links? Thanks for all you do for us new painters! You are awesome!
1st thanks for the support - I appreciate it. 2nd, you should have to only click on 1 link for it to support my channel. I am curious to what new goodies ya got?
@@WildCreates I ordered a set of Lukas water mixable paints, Windsor & Newton linseed oil, Windsor & Newton spray varnish and a tube of Windsor & Newton water mixable titanium white. My lungs thank you for this video!
Thank you so much for you indepth analysis. It helped my make the decision I was hoping to make. I use acrylics primarily but wanted the ability to do some of the things Bob does like with the breaking on mountains. You showed a snipet example as well in this video. Plus as you mentioned the harmful oders and possible combustion of oil on rags. (Getting older so might forget to properly dispose of.)Thank you Thank you Thank you. This is a scientific breakthrough for us artists who want the best of both worlds in painting mediums.
combustion while possible is extremely rare... I actually wanna do a video on this at some point BUT until then... I am glad the video could help you out.
Appreciate the gold nuggets of knowledge you’re passing on to us, very much! I like this idea. I was getting sick using odorless thinner- but nothing else cleaned my brushes as well. Now that I can use WM oils I am looking forward to using my Bob Ross brushes with the conditioner stuff with the guy on the tub (LOL I forgot the name) but thank you!!!
I thought Bob Ross brushes aren't supposed to be cleaned with water. Since, The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver is used with water, did cleaning the brushes with it cause any damage to the brushes?
Hullo Sir, I found this after watching and commented on your other video. I believe that I am more from the idea of using water for cleanup and mediums for thinning and to thicken my oil paints. I have had troubles with the paint cracking off when I used water for “washes”. Or thin layers. I am still interested in seeing your recipe for a water soluble liquid white! Thank you.
hi, thank you for your video, I have a question, what kind of liquit white do you use with the water mixable oil paints? I would really like to use this paint but I know a liquit white base is important to do the wet in wet technic. I hope to hear from you
Glad the videos can help you out - These 2 videos should help you: Liquid Clear: th-cam.com/video/F012kE0o1nw/w-d-xo.html Liquid White: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
I'm a newbie. I love this video and have been thinking of using water-soluble oils for awhile. Would you please do a video about how to make water-soluble liquid white?
Hey great video here! Quick question, I have done two paintings using W&N water mixable oil paint and it's been almost two months and they are still tacky. Do you have any suggestions as to why these paintings aren't drying up. I did use white mixed in with many of the colors for these paintings, and I know the white can take longer to dry, but 2 months? Also, my living space is quite dry in terms of humidity, usually around 55%.. Thanks!
So water mixable oil is still oil by its nature... which means it can take a long time to dry. Most oil will take months to dry ( completely normal ). If you added a lot of layers or added thick layers... it could take 6 to 12 months to completely dry. (again completely normal) If this is too long you can add a medium like Liquin next time you paint - This will speed up the process. Hope that helps :)
@@WildCreates Thank you for responding to my comment....yes, I in fact did use heavy paint and in some areas of the painting I used a palette knife...It never crossed my mind as I was putting it down. OMG, 6 months to a year....I guess I'll l have to think about using one of those quick dry time fluids. Thanks so much for your response, very helpful🙏
If you live in a dryer climate like me - the process will go faster BUT always lean towards more time. Mine at dry generally in about 2 to 3 months... then I varnish them. If you are not sure, you can slightly touch it with a pallete knife... Should be hard and rigid to the touch
Yes it can be used BUT it will shift over to non water mixable. You can also make your own water mixable liquid white. Which you can see here: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
Hello there! Thanks for this usefull video, as a beginner I was in doubt between both oil paints. Could you please inform which pallette do you use?? I've looked for it in comments for painting gear section, also on the net but no way 😢 Thanks and keep on!!
I’ve been thinking about making the switch for the last year or so. I think the thing that holds me back is the liquid white. Is there a water soluble liquid white type of product out there or will I need to make it myself? If I need to mix it up , what is the ratio from paint to WMO linseed/gel or whatnot??
Here you go - There are two versions you can make: - Gel: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html - Linseed: th-cam.com/video/c6ISb-xRCVs/w-d-xo.html I reccomend start with a 25% mix then tweak it from there BUT that is a good starting point
Thanks for the video. Your demo was on canvas, but suppose you paint on a very slick surface without texture, do you think the WS oils will leave brush marks? And can you thin them a lot to make glazes like you can do with white spirit with regular oils? As I understand too much water won't work very well, but would some specific medium allows for glazes.
- For the brush stroke question - Hard to answer ( depends on brush and material painting on ) just test and see. Or you can always gesso the surface to help with application and flow. - I suggest using something like a WM thinner or Solvent Free gel for glazes - you can see a video on one here: th-cam.com/video/lMr6lQwMdWo/w-d-xo.html
awesome post Wild!! I have a question though. Can you use your bob ross brushes with water soluable oils? or do you have to use different style brushes? 🤔 Also, how do you make the liquid white to use with the water soluable oils? Thanks and love your videos. Great content!!
You can use BR brushes with WM oils BUT you will need to clean & condition them afterwards. I recommend these 2 products listed here: Cleaner: th-cam.com/video/cFYEbPzidc0/w-d-xo.html Conditioner: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html You can make your own water mixable liquid white. Which you can see here: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
i see thank you sir of the reason why i was reluctant to try oil paint because we have poor ventilation here in Philippines thats why i juat stick on using Charcoal🙂❤️
Hi Wild! So, I have had to switch to water mixable oils for health reasons. I need some advice on keeping the paint wet. I live in the desert southwest (very hot and dry) and these paints dry much quicker then them regular oil paints. As a newbie to painter, I need all the help I can get!
Glad to help... can you let me know first. Are you painting for extended periods of time and leaving your paint out (aka more than 24 hours?) or what is your painting process - WM should stay wet for a long time... I am in SoCal - so I am no stranger to dry heat ha ha ha
@@WildCreates Well it depends on how I am physically feeling. If I had my way I would paint until I was relatively pleased with my creation. Ha! I forgot to mention in my original post that I always add an extra few layers of gesso to the canvas. I usually buy canvases that are primed at least twice. I thought you would understand dry heat. Anyway to answer your question, it is usually 24 - 48 hours. Thanks again!
If you are painting less than 48 hours in dry heat just stack-up your paint when you are done painting for the day. AKA put it in a nice thick pile on your mixing palette. When paint is left spread out that's more surface area for it to dry quicker. Next, wrap cling saran wrap around the paint and palette ( remove as much air as possible). Then move the paint to a cool area not in direct sunlight. This will keep your paint useable for 1 to 2 more days. I would also suggest a non-porus palette. I just did a review on the one I use. Check it out: th-cam.com/video/oIg03xgdYC4/w-d-xo.html
Schminke makes 2 mediums that you can add to traditional oils to make water soluble. It is called Medium W in a gel or liquid. I have used it and it works!
⁉️❓❓❓Can you paint acrylic over water mixable oil paint? I have an old painting that I never finished that it was with this type of oil paint. I’d like and preferred to paint over it with acrylic and finish the painting. I have used an acrylic varnish over the entire painting as an acrylic surface.. is this possible?
I’ve used water based oil paint for over two decades. They work great, and for me the health aspects far outweigh any disadvantages…which I frankly don’t experience myself. My favorite brand for these is Cobra.
@@WildCreates Kinda funny, I'm actually using them right now on a large aviation painting. I think I've used all of the water-based oils over the years, and find that Cobra has the best overall "feel" of oil paint. I tried it after several artists in Plein Air Magazine recommended them. Winsor and Newton is a close second for me, and I still prefer their Titanium White over Cobra's TW.
It really depends on what type of paint you mix with it. If you own BR LW just blob some out and make a mixture next to it. This way you can see what ratio you need to mimic it. When you find it... Note it down for later. This is what I do.
I was able to pick up bags of Artisan at Michaels. I think the deal is a lot of students come in and fondle the tubes. If I buy a tube I keep it perfect, and hate dents. But I am fully adaptable. If Michaels wants to sell the Artisan for 70% off after the art locusts left, I will snap it up. Bought on this basis a few tubes were a little runny under the cap, but fine overall, I just drained them. And one had dried up, but out of a few handle bags of paint, I have no issues.
Those very dilute water washes should be fine for early layers. If you use thinner, it evaporates just like the water, leaving the pigment and oil behind. So should be just fine. Also, as you add oilier ("fatter") layers on top, some of that oil will coat/mix with the earlier layer and help with binding. Also, to make the paints water mixable, they add an emulsifier (dish soap is also an emulsifier). I'm also a chemist, so I love this part of the art scene as well.
Dope dude for the awesome feedback - its nice to hear form others with experience that the underlayers or grounding will hold and bind. I like to throw the warning in there because the manufacture states it... so just passing it along so there are no issues for some painters out there ha ha ha. Would love to know Mr. Awesome Chemist... if the Dish soap is the emulsifier... does that mean adding dish soap to traditional oils will shift them too water soluble??? Or is there more to it in the chemical makeup when manufacturing WM paint? I am curious now ha ha ha
@@WildCreates I suspect they use a powdered soap (like powdered laundry detergent) as the emulsifier. However, I have experimented exactly as you said. I've put a few drops of Dawn clear into the walnut oil I use. Then I mix that with the paints and I can thin them with water and wash the brushes with water also. I find that sometimes I still need to clean the brushes more with thinner, but water gets much of it out. I'm making no claims on the archival part. But it's a lot of fun and a way to at least reduce some of the exposure to thinner.
I was trying to follow Yovette painting a lighthouse, and maybe I should have waited to do lighthouse before tried to paint a lighthouse over a wet canvass.. Can I use Bob Ross's brushes with my water mixable???? I think I will try and do one of your tutorials of BR using the watermixables. Any suggestions?
nice video. So when you say you can reactivate the water oil paint, does that mean it will become creamy and movable again after it has dried up? Kind of like gouache?
Sorry to clarify it. When its dried its dried. I meant it more like when its in the drying process and starts to become tacky... you can introduce some medium to make it wet and workable again. Hope that makes more sense for ya.
You can clean them with water if you want... you just need to make sure that you nourish and condition them after. I highly recommend this product here: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html Also, You can clean WM oil paint with healthy thinner- I recommend gamsol which you can learn about here: th-cam.com/video/QzQAobWgguk/w-d-xo.html
@@WildCreates that's so good to know! I had washed my Kevin Hill 2" brush with Masters soap, but after cleaning and rinsing in water I didn't saturate it and store it with Masters soap so the bristles go all splayed. I'll check out the video and give your suggestion a try. Thanks!
Yeah that can happen - Don't worry your brushes will be fine. Your not the first to have this issue in my channel - I think I will make a video on what I do to correct this. So stay tuned for that :)
I’ve been using water mixables for about a year and a half. I also use the Winsor Newton Artisan paints. I agree with everything you mentioned about them. I learned all those lessons through trial and error. I did find using synthetic hog brushes to be a better choice. That’s just my own opinion…your mileage may vary 😜 As always, great video! Happy painting!
Trail and error is the best way to learn for you own style 🔥 Synthetic is great... gunna mention this in another video when I show tips on how to paint with them Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback
@@jessperna7916 I don’t routinely use a 2” brush. I haven’t been able to find a 2” brush in synthetic hog. That being said, if I really have to have one, I use the Wooster Yachtsman. The 2” is around $7 and the 1” around $5. It’s natural bristle so I know it’s going to eventually fray and get split ends. However, it’s cheap enough to replace and does just as good of a job as the more expensive brushes with a well known artist’s name on them. Just my experience.
Amazing video also can I use bob ross brushes with water mixable oils I’ve been thinking if I should buy bob Ross brushes for my water mixable. Is there other sturdy brushes I should get? What should I do?
In my experience, it’s better to go with synthetic brushes. Synthetic hog bristle brushes are at most places like Hobby Lobby and Michaels. I can’t find 1” and 2” brushes in synthetic hog so I buy Wooster Yachtsman brushes at my hardware store. They’re inexpensive at about $6-$8. Natural bristle brushes will fray in water. They’ll last a little while, but they’ll get split ends. This is just my experience with water mixables so I can only give you my own opinion. I just don’t want you ruining your BR brushes. They aren’t cheap! 😁
So a few things here: - Yes you can use your BR brushes here but I do reccomend using the Master Brush Cleaner after to help maintain the bristles. - If you have any newer BR brushes or by new ones... They are now a synthetic mix with natural bristles... which is great for WM Oil paint. - 100% Synthetic brush work really well with WM oil paint... BUT pay up for nice ones... they will last and work better. Hope that helps
Just adding to this awesome comment - Synthetic work great with WM oil paint. I recommend paying a little up for a nicer set... it will last the long haul. Grab a few brushes that are a 50/50 synthetic & natural bristle mix.... the Fraying with water effect is awesome for creating 100s of leaves and highlight on foliage.
@@WildCreates thanks for the advice! My problem right now is I can’t make good leaves or bushes i have a cheap 1$ brush from hobby lobby. I just want to make sure the bob Ross brushes are fine. Also is there such things as bob Ross synthetic brushes version?
Thanks for the review vid Wild, it is much appreciated, I'm nearly set to jump into the water soluble oils. I'm in the middle of a sunset w/ palm silhouette scene with regular oils, still have a couple things to do on it after the paint gets a bit more tacky. I'm really looking forward to an easier cleanup process. Which brings to mind, I have an awful habit of walking away mid-painting, leaving the paints and residue of paint on my palette over night. Are the water soluble oils any easier to clean after drying? (I currently use this citrus based gel to get the dried oils off, works better than solvent)
The clean up is legit the best part... can't over sell that part enough ha ha ha. OK so its better and worse for your issue... They are easier to clean if you make a mistake like that and forget... However the paint dries fast due to the evaporation of water.... Soooooo you will still need to use that cleaner you mention or the murphys oil soap I mentioned in other videos. Best advice I can give IS: Stop painting 10 mins earlier and use that time for clean up ha ha ha... that will form a better habbit :)
I have heard a few things differently. I think these apply to Artisan, which is most of what I own, but I also use Cobra and I think they are similar, but best to check specifics. 1) You can mix regular mediums with these paints. Why would one want to? a) it is all you can find locally/on location; b) it is your preferred medium; c) it is a lot cheaper; d) some of the older mediums create strong paint films. These paints are often the only ones you can use in some courses and shows, so in those cases you can't use toxic mediums. My personal preference is to use non-toxic mediums indoors, but I will use turpentine outside. I think we often apply the concerns that arose from health effects that arose in a factory where they made turpentine, or in the old days people working in a small unventilated studio with soaked rags drapped over their neck or arms; to some cirucumstance where you can't even smell the pungent stuff, if you have a favourable breeze. Pretty much everyone wears gloves these days. 2) You can mix oil paint with this stuff, and I think they say you can mix it up to 30% volume and still get the water mixability. Keep in mind that we don't necessarily want to mix this paint with water, but it is an option, and makes cleanup easier. Even if you exceed the 30% mark, you can still wash oil paint out with water and soap since that is what some people use for that purpose, anyway. Disadvantages: 3) This stuff was designed to get oil paint back into classrooms where it had been banned. But that means that you may find it has lower pigment loads and is "student grade". On occasion that is a benefit, if you want less tinting strength, or just find colors you prefer. Overall I think the higher grade Cobra is more pro grade. However, the Artisan I have is a few years old, and fine, but they may have made changes. Daniel Smith also makes some, and would probably be the highest grade, but the price in my region is way inflated. Just a distribution issue. 4) This stuff was designed to get oil paint... So you will not find toxic pigments for the most part, and you will find a lot of tints. This is a problem, but obviously a compromise some people are willing to make, and there are top brands that are non-toxic regardless of price and certainly not of a lower grade. But it is worth knowing why you might want true Cadmiums so if you are making substitutions, or coming at paint safety through, say, an earth tone palette, you know what is going on.
Great feedback and comment. I think you kinda answered your own questions for part 1. When you make YT art video you quickly find out there are many artist outside you bubble and region. So you try your best to address issues like price, availability, mixed-medias, health issues/toxic, effectiveness, and it be bought, ETC. Because everyone will have different styles, different applications, and different visons. I try my best to address as much as I can without boring the watcher ha ha ha
A couple of things to add. Different WMO paints behave differently. for all of them, you can clean up with water. For W&N you aren't supposed to use water as a thinner, just for cleanup, you're supposed to use their Water Mixble thinner / medium. On the other hand, Cobra, Holbein, and Daniel Smith WMO paints are supposed to be used with water as a thinner. Also, you don't actually need solvents for regular oils. I use walnut oil in my "cleaning bucket" and then soap and water to clean. Combine with Gamblin solvent free gel and you're solvent free with regular oils. Personally, I use a bit of Gamsol which is a solvent as a thinner when I use regular oils.
I didn't expect that much info, but thank you for it! 🤩 I had to give up oils when I got a bunch of autoimmune diseases, but I really miss them. I got some W&N water-mixable oils, but they do behave very differently. Almost like an oil acrylic hybrid. 🤔🤨 That's some really valuable information for me with the walnut oil! 🤩🤗
Why do you have that annoying, pounding "music" in the background? It adds absolutely nothing but distraction to your informative video. I had to stop listening to you halfway through, which is sad because you were really giving good info.
I like using black swan synthetic brushes from Jerry’s Artarama, I also have used the synthetic hog bristle brushes from Jerry’s and they all clean up with soap and water! I am very curious about Chelsea Lavender mediums and cleaners, have you ever tried it? I know that it works with oil paints and is non toxic! But I have not tried to work with Chelsea Lavender products with water soluble oil paints. I know that most limits for oil inclusion is 30% if you want to keep your water solubility. But I just don’t know enough about Lavender supplies? Thank you for sharing your expertise with us! See ya next video!
Thanks for the suggestions on the brushes. Always on the hunt for good brushes Chelsea products are great... EXPENSIVE but great. I would say try it out. Look for a coupon and see if you can get a small bottle. I will eventually do a review on their stuff. Thanks for watching
Hey Wild, are these Winsor & Newton watermixable paints of the same consistency as their regular oil mixable paints? Are they as good for paint breaks for mountains as their regular paint? I noticed that my local shop carries these watermixables, might as well try it instead of ordering the oil mixable from somewhere else. :)
They are, which is super awesome. You can do what I did when I first got them. Just buy a small starter tube pack or single small tubes and try it out BEFORE you go full ham and buy a bunch of them. And always remember you can use my links **hint hint** he he he
Also, all along there is this BS idea that oil paints are more toxic that acrylics. Acrylic contain nasty chemicals and we really don't know what they are putting in them as they are trade secrets. Oil paints can contain edible oils and pigments, but they can contain toxic pigments (as can all color mediums from pastels on up, and acrylics). And they can have other things in with the oil that are toxic. But at their simplest, oil paints are very safe. The easiest way to deal with brush cleaning is to not clean them. Use a brush dip, or a product that extends the drying time so you can clean brushes once a week.
You can also mix water mix. medium with water, shake it and use it. The result will be outstanding. I put water into a small jar kb 1 inch high and a few drops of medium. Shake it (that's why you put it into a jar) and use it for thinning. Excellent, all the beadings and break ups will disappear.
I would point out that for people who want safer oil paints or easier cleanup, there are lots of better options out there than water soluble paints. The emulsification of oil in water soluble oils is still a bit of a black box. I wouldn't eat this binder, but there are paint binders that are basically salad oil (before they put vitamin E in everything). The problem is mostly cost and availability, but not everyone has those problems. Brush cleaning is best just avoided. Brush dip, or using paint that has safe materials used to delay drying can be a lot simpler. One can also use soap and water, thought that is not easier than using water soluble paints. Another option is to use palette knives, they just wipe off.
Over time YES, Which is why I recommend this product here: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html It will prevent damage from happening while also cleaning your brushes.
W&N has fillers as I recall. I use it for the lower layers but move on to better quality water mixable like Cobra and Holbein for the final layers. Much better control and quality with those and they don't break the bank.
Opinion: I think they added a certain percentage of clear all-natural ingredient (I think) liquid dishwashing liquid to the paint, and likely the percent would be different for each color of oil paint. The p[ercetange of dishwashing soap used allows some degree of emulsification to take place without overly ill-affecting the normal behavior of the oil paint.
You can - I was just showing different options here and some of those options are what the manufacture recommends. But you can experiment and do whatever ratio you like for the style required.
The only difference I have really noticed is the smell... but i have a sensitive nose ha ha ha No artist can tell the difference between normal and WM when they are dried and varnished... provided they are the same quality of paint. Sounds more like art snobs tossing hate ha ha ha
@WildCreates yes, I meant water mixable oil mediums. I have a liquin that says it's for Artisan water mixable oils, but I don't know the difference between that and liquin for regular oil paints... other than that you can still clean your brushes with water. I have a few other water mixable oil mediums too. What if I use regular galkid, or other mediums for regular oils, can I use water mixable oils over that? I guess I'm just going to have to try it and see. Thanks for your help!😄🤗
You can... you will have to play around with it and see what works best for you style and approach. Please note that Liquin is an Alkaid - so it may require thinners for cleaning.
Okay, so the main difference between regular oil paints and the water mixable oil paints is that water-mixable behave like acrylic paints but slow-drying acrylic.
Oil paint manufacturers should name those paints not water mixable, but water WASHABLE or CLEANABLE oil paint. They're like regular oils, just with a bit adjusted oil at molecular level. Water is just for cleaning your brush without solvents. Don't use water as medium, you just destroying your paint film. And you will notice, that water turns your vibrant paint color dull. To stay solvent free use "water mixable" medium with your paint. Water mixable linseed oil also available. Actually Winsor & Newton has entire line of products to enjoy solvent free oil painting.
You will see some manufacture list their paints as waster-soluble. But I am seeing less of that. Water Mixable is more of a buzz term that grabs attention. W&N has a lot of great products - I use them all the time.
@@WildCreates I cleaned my brushes, as usual. The next time I went to use them, they were rigid and nothing I did could soften them again. Threw them out along with the water based oils.
Interesting cause that shouldn't happen at all unless you didn't clean your brushes thoroughly. I always use the master brush cleaner and preserver at the end of the day... works like a charm. I reccomend it.
@@WildCreates I have used ivory soap and water for 40 years. If I wasn't going to paint in a while, then odorless turp. Apparently, soap wasn't a friend of water based oils.
He was famous for being a teacher and an admirable personality. I have no idea if he had other painting styles he utilized because I've only watched his joy of painting series, which was intended to be easy to follow and quick to achieve. I found his work beautiful as a lover of nature and art is a subjective thing anyway. Your opinion is as valid as mine, but I absolutely loved to watch him paint and I never saw him paint anything I found displeasing.
Most (world) famous artists are “one dimensional”. Be it subject matter or the style they painted in (often both) they had their signature aesthetic… that’s generally what sets them apart & becomes iconic. They find their thing and master it.
Besides what was mentioned here, one of the most important things he did was make art accessible to those that weren’t “artists”. He taught in a way that anyone could create a work of art that gave them pleasure and pride that they would hang on their wall 😊
That is true - I think Bob took it further than expressing his art style... He made others feel they could paint as well. He was pivotal in starting a new generation of artist.
As an acrylic artist coming from a Bob Ross background many years ago. it took me quite a lot of experimentation to get my acrylics looking like oil. Then along came water soluble oils! The first ones tended to be tacky and annoying to work with, so I went back to acrylics. The science of paint manufacturing in both WS oils and Open acrylics have come a long way with pleasing results. The one thing I really like about acrylics is that you can paint over them with both oil or acrylics.
Open acrylics and WM OIl is great - I am glad we have these options to play around with 🔥
I'm brand new to the world of painting and haven't yet even begun my first actual painting. I've been mostly watching countless tutorials on the very basics before I really sit down and apply focus. This very issue has been a topic that I've been uncertain about, and it's one that few other channels actually touch on. At least with any degree of detail. Thank you very much, brother - this video has been a great information asset!
I am glad I can help you out on your new painting adventure - I have a ton of great videos for new painters..
Hit that sub button and you will get to see more of my handsome face help you out 🔥
Please make this a series. There’s aren’t enough videos on water soluble oils. Great video 😊😊
I like that idea... what would you like to see in this style of series?
@@WildCreates nudes! LoL
I can do that ha ha ha
I’ve got a nude in water mixables with a burnt umber underpainting coming up. Two commissions to finish first though. I have it sketched out, but that’s about it at this time. 😜
Handle it buddy 💪
Never been a big fan of the water mixables, but i might try them again.
Awesome video. It was great that you demonstrated with water and the WM mediums.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job! Looking forward to painting with water mixable oils.
Awesome - Let me know how it goes for you when you do 🔥
vid 7:19 - did anyone understand what was said? Looks like he used the same mediums by mistake? or What mediums were used? Thanks
The left side is using Liquid White made from WM white oil paint and WM linseed oil.
The right side is using Liquid White made from WM white oil paint and water ONLY.
Hope that helpss.
@@WildCreates Thank you, it does! cheers
Glad to help you out.
9:07 do you have video where you created these white waves?
I have two video that might help ya. I will attach them below:
Painting water with a knife: th-cam.com/video/eAF11qd6EqQ/w-d-xo.html
Simple Ocean wave tutorial: th-cam.com/video/840auItvXLI/w-d-xo.html
@@WildCreates Useful, thanks
You are welcome buddy
Did you apply liquid white first
If you want to do wet on wet YES... you can make your own Water Mixable version here: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. I’ll be interested in watching some more.
Thanks for watching - I will add more to my list of video ideas
I am using ws oils too and am learning as I go. I appreciate the information you have shared and tips on mediums.
You are so welcome!
Make sure to hit that sub button for more awesome videos.
What I like to do is use Water for the underpainting and use the Medium as I get thicker on the paint.
It's really great to see more and more artists work with water mixable oils since it's a great way to work with oils on a limited space.
I still have to figure out the drying times for WM Oils and definitely should check out that solvant free Gel you're using, since I have not heard of it.
The Solvent free gel is awesome - I highly recommend it.
Drying times for WM oils are almost the same as normal oils... In my opinion, WM oils dry a tad faster.
Thanks for this Vid, can I store the wmo thinner the same as normal, with a silicoil type separator ?
You can store it like you would any other thinner 🔥
I just started oil painting. I have been painting watercolor for years, but wanted to try something new (for me). I bought water mixable oils because of the easy cleanup and less chemicals
Awesome to hear - Let me know how you like them.
The verdict is still out, but I love there is no smell and easy clean up. It’s a different animal than watercolor and I haven’t mastered the learning curve yet. ( but am making slow progress)
I am currently working on a Simple WM Oil painting tutorial. So maybe that will help you when it drops.
It is still a few weeks out so be sure to hit that sub button in the mean time to know when it will go live :)
Hi Wild! I have purchased items through the links that you provide. Once I'm re-directed to Amazon, will you get credit for everything I buy or do I need to click on each of the links? Thanks for all you do for us new painters! You are awesome!
1st thanks for the support - I appreciate it.
2nd, you should have to only click on 1 link for it to support my channel. I am curious to what new goodies ya got?
@@WildCreates I ordered a set of Lukas water mixable paints, Windsor & Newton linseed oil, Windsor & Newton spray varnish and a tube of Windsor & Newton water mixable titanium white. My lungs thank you for this video!
Hell ya - I cant wait for you to play with all your new goodies.
You speak very quickly for those who like to take notes. Thanks for the info!
The good news is that its a video and you. re-watch, pause and rewind at any time 💪
Thank you so much for you indepth analysis. It helped my make the decision I was hoping to make. I use acrylics primarily but wanted the ability to do some of the things Bob does like with the breaking on mountains. You showed a snipet example as well in this video. Plus as you mentioned the harmful oders and possible combustion of oil on rags. (Getting older so might forget to properly dispose of.)Thank you Thank you Thank you. This is a scientific breakthrough for us artists who want the best of both worlds in painting mediums.
combustion while possible is extremely rare... I actually wanna do a video on this at some point BUT until then... I am glad the video could help you out.
thank you for your reply, I will try it this way. Greetings from Amsterdam
Glad I could help you out :)
Appreciate the gold nuggets of knowledge you’re passing on to us, very much! I like this idea. I was getting sick using odorless thinner- but nothing else cleaned my brushes as well. Now that I can use WM oils I am looking forward to using my Bob Ross brushes with the conditioner stuff with the guy on the tub (LOL I forgot the name) but thank you!!!
If you end up getting them - Let me know what you think.
Would love to hear your feedback
I thought Bob Ross brushes aren't supposed to be cleaned with water. Since, The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver is used with water, did cleaning the brushes with it cause any damage to the brushes?
I love my water mixable oils but, would like to learn more about them!
What or info are you interested in?
Hullo Sir, I found this after watching and commented on your other video. I believe that I am more from the idea of using water for cleanup and mediums for thinning and to thicken my oil paints. I have had troubles with the paint cracking off when I used water for “washes”. Or thin layers. I am still interested in seeing your recipe for a water soluble liquid white! Thank you.
I have been working on a recipe for months now and still testing... Stay tuned... something coming very very soon on this.
Great vid full of info, Wild!
Glad you enjoyed!
Let me know if you give WM oils a try - I will be interested to hear you feedback.
@@WildCreates I am a novice but I've liked them the two times I used them with traditional oils. Great product to use alone or with conventional oils!
Thanks for the feedback buddy
Great video, by the way. And thank you for making it.
You are super welcome
Great way of explaining 👍👍👍✨✨✨✨✨
Glad you like it - Make sure to hit that sub button for more helpful videos.
Thank you, I learned a lot from your clear explanations and demonstrations! 👍
You are super welcome... Make sure to hit that SUB button for more awesome videos.
Great Video! Thanks for the info. This will be a game changer for me.
Glad it was helpful! If you end up trying them out make sure to get some WM medium too: th-cam.com/video/F012kE0o1nw/w-d-xo.html
Excellent Review. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Don't forget to sub to get more awesome videos.
Thank you so much for this Wild. Going to have to try water mixable now 😅
You are super welcome. Remember to use my link to help support the channel
I was wondering can you use bob ross liquid white and the Windsor water oil paints?
You can but the BR LW will shift you WM paints towards tradition oils... which my require you to use mineral spirts to clean your brushes
@@WildCreates ok ty, what would be the best to use as liquid white for wet on wet?
Use water mixable linseed oil or Gamblin solvent free gel - I have videos on both... check them out on my channel
What is the medium you were using?
I got you! All the products shown are listed in the Video Description below the video player.
hi, thank you for your video, I have a question, what kind of liquit white do you use with the water mixable oil paints? I would really like to use this paint but I know a liquit white base is important to do the wet in wet technic. I hope to hear from you
Glad the videos can help you out - These 2 videos should help you:
Liquid Clear: th-cam.com/video/F012kE0o1nw/w-d-xo.html
Liquid White: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
I'm a newbie. I love this video and have been thinking of using water-soluble oils for awhile. Would you please do a video about how to make water-soluble liquid white?
Glad I could help you out. I think I already have a video on it. You can find it here:; th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
@@WildCreates Thanks I found it.
Awesome.
Hey great video here! Quick question, I have done two paintings using W&N water mixable oil paint and it's been almost two months and they are still tacky. Do you have any suggestions as to why these paintings aren't drying up. I did use white mixed in with many of the colors for these paintings, and I know the white can take longer to dry, but 2 months? Also, my living space is quite dry in terms of humidity, usually around 55%.. Thanks!
So water mixable oil is still oil by its nature... which means it can take a long time to dry. Most oil will take months to dry ( completely normal ). If you added a lot of layers or added thick layers... it could take 6 to 12 months to completely dry. (again completely normal)
If this is too long you can add a medium like Liquin next time you paint - This will speed up the process.
Hope that helps :)
@@WildCreates Thank you for responding to my comment....yes, I in fact did use heavy paint and in some areas of the painting I used a palette knife...It never crossed my mind as I was putting it down. OMG, 6 months to a year....I guess I'll l have to think about using one of those quick dry time fluids. Thanks so much for your response, very helpful🙏
If you live in a dryer climate like me - the process will go faster BUT always lean towards more time. Mine at dry generally in about 2 to 3 months... then I varnish them.
If you are not sure, you can slightly touch it with a pallete knife... Should be hard and rigid to the touch
What about Magic White to prep the canvas,,, can it be use with water base oil? Or is there one for the water base oil?
Yes it can be used BUT it will shift over to non water mixable.
You can also make your own water mixable liquid white. Which you can see here: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
Hello there! Thanks for this usefull video, as a beginner I was in doubt between both oil paints. Could you please inform which pallette do you use?? I've looked for it in comments for painting gear section, also on the net but no way 😢
Thanks and keep on!!
I use two
Standing: th-cam.com/video/5IVxt6381z0/w-d-xo.html
Sitting: th-cam.com/video/oIg03xgdYC4/w-d-xo.html
@@WildCreates thanks a lot!!
You are welcome buddy
This was very interesting and well explained.😀 Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Make sure to sun for more helpful videos 👍
I’ve been thinking about making the switch for the last year or so. I think the thing that holds me back is the liquid white. Is there a water soluble liquid white type of product out there or will I need to make it myself? If I need to mix it up , what is the ratio from paint to WMO linseed/gel or whatnot??
Here you go - There are two versions you can make:
- Gel: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
- Linseed: th-cam.com/video/c6ISb-xRCVs/w-d-xo.html
I reccomend start with a 25% mix then tweak it from there BUT that is a good starting point
@@WildCreates thank you sir!!
Your welcome buddy - just leave an awesome comment on those videos and we will call it even
Great medium to use, as long you can still beat the brush when cleaning some brands can be mixed with a small amount of acrylic.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the video.
Your demo was on canvas, but suppose you paint on a very slick surface without texture, do you think the WS oils will leave brush marks?
And can you thin them a lot to make glazes like you can do with white spirit with regular oils? As I understand too much water won't work very well, but would some specific medium allows for glazes.
- For the brush stroke question - Hard to answer ( depends on brush and material painting on ) just test and see. Or you can always gesso the surface to help with application and flow.
- I suggest using something like a WM thinner or Solvent Free gel for glazes - you can see a video on one here: th-cam.com/video/lMr6lQwMdWo/w-d-xo.html
awesome post Wild!! I have a question though. Can you use your bob ross brushes with water soluable oils? or do you have to use different style brushes? 🤔 Also, how do you make the liquid white to use with the water soluable oils? Thanks and love your videos. Great content!!
You can use BR brushes with WM oils BUT you will need to clean & condition them afterwards. I recommend these 2 products listed here:
Cleaner: th-cam.com/video/cFYEbPzidc0/w-d-xo.html
Conditioner: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html
You can make your own water mixable liquid white. Which you can see here: th-cam.com/video/TyKPBE_WBt8/w-d-xo.html
I’ve moved to water mixable because of painting in a small space… an RV. Please more videos would be appreciated.
Glad too - What would you like to see?
gamblin solvent free will work on water mixable oil?
According to their website, YES it will :)
i see thank you sir of the reason why i was reluctant to try oil paint because we have poor ventilation here in Philippines thats why i juat stick on using Charcoal🙂❤️
You can always use this medium too: th-cam.com/video/F012kE0o1nw/w-d-xo.html
thank you sir 🇵🇭🇺🇸❤️
You are welcome
Hi Wild! So, I have had to switch to water mixable oils for health reasons. I need some advice on keeping the paint wet. I live in the desert southwest (very hot and dry) and these paints dry much quicker then them regular oil paints. As a newbie to painter, I need all the help I can get!
Glad to help... can you let me know first. Are you painting for extended periods of time and leaving your paint out (aka more than 24 hours?) or what is your painting process - WM should stay wet for a long time... I am in SoCal - so I am no stranger to dry heat ha ha ha
@@WildCreates Well it depends on how I am physically feeling. If I had my way I would paint until I was relatively pleased with my creation. Ha! I forgot to mention in my original post that I always add an extra few layers of gesso to the canvas. I usually buy canvases that are primed at least twice. I thought you would understand dry heat. Anyway to answer your question, it is usually 24 - 48 hours. Thanks again!
If you are painting less than 48 hours in dry heat just stack-up your paint when you are done painting for the day. AKA put it in a nice thick pile on your mixing palette. When paint is left spread out that's more surface area for it to dry quicker.
Next, wrap cling saran wrap around the paint and palette ( remove as much air as possible). Then move the paint to a cool area not in direct sunlight. This will keep your paint useable for 1 to 2 more days.
I would also suggest a non-porus palette. I just did a review on the one I use. Check it out: th-cam.com/video/oIg03xgdYC4/w-d-xo.html
Schminke makes 2 mediums that you can add to traditional oils to make water soluble. It is called Medium W in a gel or liquid. I have used it and it works!
I have had a few people mention this - I wanna give it a try. Dumb question... but does it have an odor to it?
@@WildCreates There is no odor.
Perfect thanks
⁉️❓❓❓Can you paint acrylic over water mixable oil paint? I have an old painting that I never finished that it was with this type of oil paint. I’d like and preferred to paint over it with acrylic and finish the painting. I have used an acrylic varnish over the entire painting as an acrylic surface.. is this possible?
NO.... You can paint oil on top of dried acrylic paint BUT not the other way around.
I’ve used water based oil paint for over two decades. They work great, and for me the health aspects far outweigh any disadvantages…which I frankly don’t experience myself. My favorite brand for these is Cobra.
Awesome - Would love to know why you love Cobra.
@@WildCreates Kinda funny, I'm actually using them right now on a large aviation painting. I think I've used all of the water-based oils over the years, and find that Cobra has the best overall "feel" of oil paint. I tried it after several artists in Plein Air Magazine recommended them. Winsor and Newton is a close second for me, and I still prefer their Titanium White over Cobra's TW.
Awesome - Thanks for the feedback and insight.
maybe I am not looking correctly, but what is the ratio for mixing watersoluble oil with linseed oil, to make luquit white. THANK YOU!
It really depends on what type of paint you mix with it.
If you own BR LW just blob some out and make a mixture next to it. This way you can see what ratio you need to mimic it. When you find it... Note it down for later. This is what I do.
I was able to pick up bags of Artisan at Michaels. I think the deal is a lot of students come in and fondle the tubes. If I buy a tube I keep it perfect, and hate dents. But I am fully adaptable. If Michaels wants to sell the Artisan for 70% off after the art locusts left, I will snap it up. Bought on this basis a few tubes were a little runny under the cap, but fine overall, I just drained them. And one had dried up, but out of a few handle bags of paint, I have no issues.
I love it when I snag those deals 😀
Those very dilute water washes should be fine for early layers. If you use thinner, it evaporates just like the water, leaving the pigment and oil behind. So should be just fine. Also, as you add oilier ("fatter") layers on top, some of that oil will coat/mix with the earlier layer and help with binding. Also, to make the paints water mixable, they add an emulsifier (dish soap is also an emulsifier). I'm also a chemist, so I love this part of the art scene as well.
Dope dude for the awesome feedback - its nice to hear form others with experience that the underlayers or grounding will hold and bind. I like to throw the warning in there because the manufacture states it... so just passing it along so there are no issues for some painters out there ha ha ha.
Would love to know Mr. Awesome Chemist... if the Dish soap is the emulsifier... does that mean adding dish soap to traditional oils will shift them too water soluble??? Or is there more to it in the chemical makeup when manufacturing WM paint? I am curious now ha ha ha
@@WildCreates I suspect they use a powdered soap (like powdered laundry detergent) as the emulsifier. However, I have experimented exactly as you said. I've put a few drops of Dawn clear into the walnut oil I use. Then I mix that with the paints and I can thin them with water and wash the brushes with water also. I find that sometimes I still need to clean the brushes more with thinner, but water gets much of it out.
I'm making no claims on the archival part. But it's a lot of fun and a way to at least reduce some of the exposure to thinner.
Dude... So awesome. Thanks for your insights and knowledge... love this kinda stuff 🔥🔥🔥
I was trying to follow Yovette painting a lighthouse, and maybe I should have waited to do lighthouse before tried to paint a lighthouse over a wet canvass.. Can I use Bob Ross's brushes with my water mixable???? I think I will try and do one of your tutorials of BR using the watermixables. Any suggestions?
Yovvette is great!
I say just work your way up to that difficulty of painting... there is nothing wrong with starting simple and building up!
nice video. So when you say you can reactivate the water oil paint, does that mean it will become creamy and movable again after it has dried up? Kind of like gouache?
Sorry to clarify it. When its dried its dried.
I meant it more like when its in the drying process and starts to become tacky... you can introduce some medium to make it wet and workable again.
Hope that makes more sense for ya.
Since Bob Ross & Kevin Hill brushes can't be cleaned with water, which brushes would you recommend for use with water mixable paint?
You can clean them with water if you want... you just need to make sure that you nourish and condition them after. I highly recommend this product here: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html
Also, You can clean WM oil paint with healthy thinner- I recommend gamsol which you can learn about here: th-cam.com/video/QzQAobWgguk/w-d-xo.html
@@WildCreates that's so good to know! I had washed my Kevin Hill 2" brush with Masters soap, but after cleaning and rinsing in water I didn't saturate it and store it with Masters soap so the bristles go all splayed. I'll check out the video and give your suggestion a try. Thanks!
Yeah that can happen - Don't worry your brushes will be fine.
Your not the first to have this issue in my channel - I think I will make a video on what I do to correct this. So stay tuned for that :)
@@WildCreates that would be a great video!
Make sure to hit that SUB button to know when it goes live.
Yes you certainly can. I did a nice mountain painting with them. Since mineral spirits are bad for me with COPD. This is a great replacement.
Glad to hear that you are enjoying them 🔥
Thanks😊
Welcome 😊
Make sure to hit that sub button for more awesome videos.
I’ve been using water mixables for about a year and a half. I also use the Winsor Newton Artisan paints. I agree with everything you mentioned about them. I learned all those lessons through trial and error. I did find using synthetic hog brushes to be a better choice. That’s just my own opinion…your mileage may vary 😜
As always, great video! Happy painting!
Trail and error is the best way to learn for you own style 🔥
Synthetic is great... gunna mention this in another video when I show tips on how to paint with them
Thanks for watching and thanks for the feedback
Which brand of synthetic hog brush do you use for the 2" brush?
@@jessperna7916 I don’t routinely use a 2” brush. I haven’t been able to find a 2” brush in synthetic hog. That being said, if I really have to have one, I use the Wooster Yachtsman. The 2” is around $7 and the 1” around $5. It’s natural bristle so I know it’s going to eventually fray and get split ends. However, it’s cheap enough to replace and does just as good of a job as the more expensive brushes with a well known artist’s name on them. Just my experience.
@@dalecullenart I'll check out that brush. Thanks very much for the info!
Amazing video also can I use bob ross brushes with water mixable oils I’ve been thinking if I should buy bob Ross brushes for my water mixable. Is there other sturdy brushes I should get? What should I do?
In my experience, it’s better to go with synthetic brushes. Synthetic hog bristle brushes are at most places like Hobby Lobby and Michaels. I can’t find 1” and 2” brushes in synthetic hog so I buy Wooster Yachtsman brushes at my hardware store. They’re inexpensive at about $6-$8. Natural bristle brushes will fray in water. They’ll last a little while, but they’ll get split ends.
This is just my experience with water mixables so I can only give you my own opinion. I just don’t want you ruining your BR brushes. They aren’t cheap! 😁
So a few things here:
- Yes you can use your BR brushes here but I do reccomend using the Master Brush Cleaner after to help maintain the bristles.
- If you have any newer BR brushes or by new ones... They are now a synthetic mix with natural bristles... which is great for WM Oil paint.
- 100% Synthetic brush work really well with WM oil paint... BUT pay up for nice ones... they will last and work better.
Hope that helps
Just adding to this awesome comment - Synthetic work great with WM oil paint. I recommend paying a little up for a nicer set... it will last the long haul.
Grab a few brushes that are a 50/50 synthetic & natural bristle mix.... the Fraying with water effect is awesome for creating 100s of leaves and highlight on foliage.
@@WildCreates thanks for the advice! My problem right now is I can’t make good leaves or bushes i have a cheap 1$ brush from hobby lobby. I just want to make sure the bob Ross brushes are fine. Also is there such things as bob Ross synthetic brushes version?
@@dalecullenart thank you I appreciate ur comment I will take that advice😀👍
Thanks for the review vid Wild, it is much appreciated, I'm nearly set to jump into the water soluble oils. I'm in the middle of a sunset w/ palm silhouette scene with regular oils, still have a couple things to do on it after the paint gets a bit more tacky.
I'm really looking forward to an easier cleanup process.
Which brings to mind, I have an awful habit of walking away mid-painting, leaving the paints and residue of paint on my palette over night. Are the water soluble oils any easier to clean after drying? (I currently use this citrus based gel to get the dried oils off, works better than solvent)
The clean up is legit the best part... can't over sell that part enough ha ha ha.
OK so its better and worse for your issue... They are easier to clean if you make a mistake like that and forget... However the paint dries fast due to the evaporation of water.... Soooooo you will still need to use that cleaner you mention or the murphys oil soap I mentioned in other videos.
Best advice I can give IS: Stop painting 10 mins earlier and use that time for clean up ha ha ha... that will form a better habbit :)
@@WildCreates 🤣 you make it sound so easy!
I have heard a few things differently. I think these apply to Artisan, which is most of what I own, but I also use Cobra and I think they are similar, but best to check specifics.
1) You can mix regular mediums with these paints. Why would one want to? a) it is all you can find locally/on location; b) it is your preferred medium; c) it is a lot cheaper; d) some of the older mediums create strong paint films. These paints are often the only ones you can use in some courses and shows, so in those cases you can't use toxic mediums. My personal preference is to use non-toxic mediums indoors, but I will use turpentine outside. I think we often apply the concerns that arose from health effects that arose in a factory where they made turpentine, or in the old days people working in a small unventilated studio with soaked rags drapped over their neck or arms; to some cirucumstance where you can't even smell the pungent stuff, if you have a favourable breeze. Pretty much everyone wears gloves these days.
2) You can mix oil paint with this stuff, and I think they say you can mix it up to 30% volume and still get the water mixability. Keep in mind that we don't necessarily want to mix this paint with water, but it is an option, and makes cleanup easier. Even if you exceed the 30% mark, you can still wash oil paint out with water and soap since that is what some people use for that purpose, anyway.
Disadvantages:
3) This stuff was designed to get oil paint back into classrooms where it had been banned. But that means that you may find it has lower pigment loads and is "student grade". On occasion that is a benefit, if you want less tinting strength, or just find colors you prefer. Overall I think the higher grade Cobra is more pro grade. However, the Artisan I have is a few years old, and fine, but they may have made changes. Daniel Smith also makes some, and would probably be the highest grade, but the price in my region is way inflated. Just a distribution issue.
4) This stuff was designed to get oil paint... So you will not find toxic pigments for the most part, and you will find a lot of tints. This is a problem, but obviously a compromise some people are willing to make, and there are top brands that are non-toxic regardless of price and certainly not of a lower grade. But it is worth knowing why you might want true Cadmiums so if you are making substitutions, or coming at paint safety through, say, an earth tone palette, you know what is going on.
Great feedback and comment. I think you kinda answered your own questions for part 1. When you make YT art video you quickly find out there are many artist outside you bubble and region. So you try your best to address issues like price, availability, mixed-medias, health issues/toxic, effectiveness, and it be bought, ETC. Because everyone will have different styles, different applications, and different visons. I try my best to address as much as I can without boring the watcher ha ha ha
A couple of things to add. Different WMO paints behave differently.
for all of them, you can clean up with water.
For W&N you aren't supposed to use water as a thinner, just for cleanup, you're supposed to use their Water Mixble thinner / medium.
On the other hand, Cobra, Holbein, and Daniel Smith WMO paints are supposed to be used with water as a thinner.
Also, you don't actually need solvents for regular oils. I use walnut oil in my "cleaning bucket" and then soap and water to clean. Combine with Gamblin solvent free gel and you're solvent free with regular oils. Personally, I use a bit of Gamsol which is a solvent as a thinner when I use regular oils.
Thanks for your awesome feedback and comment.
I didn't expect that much info, but thank you for it! 🤩 I had to give up oils when I got a bunch of autoimmune diseases, but I really miss them. I got some W&N water-mixable oils, but they do behave very differently. Almost like an oil acrylic hybrid. 🤔🤨 That's some really valuable information for me with the walnut oil! 🤩🤗
I am glad I could give you some more info on them to help with your painting adventures 😋
Why do you have that annoying, pounding "music" in the background?
It adds absolutely nothing but distraction to your informative video.
I had to stop listening to you halfway through, which is sad because you were really giving good info.
I like using black swan synthetic brushes from Jerry’s Artarama, I also have used the synthetic hog bristle brushes from Jerry’s and they all clean up with soap and water! I am very curious about Chelsea Lavender mediums and cleaners, have you ever tried it? I know that it works with oil paints and is non toxic! But I have not tried to work with Chelsea Lavender products with water soluble oil paints. I know that most limits for oil inclusion is 30% if you want to keep your water solubility. But I just don’t know enough about Lavender supplies? Thank you for sharing your expertise with us! See ya next video!
Thanks for the suggestions on the brushes. Always on the hunt for good brushes
Chelsea products are great... EXPENSIVE but great. I would say try it out. Look for a coupon and see if you can get a small bottle. I will eventually do a review on their stuff.
Thanks for watching
Hey Wild, are these Winsor & Newton watermixable paints of the same consistency as their regular oil mixable paints? Are they as good for paint breaks for mountains as their regular paint? I noticed that my local shop carries these watermixables, might as well try it instead of ordering the oil mixable from somewhere else. :)
They are, which is super awesome.
You can do what I did when I first got them. Just buy a small starter tube pack or single small tubes and try it out BEFORE you go full ham and buy a bunch of them.
And always remember you can use my links **hint hint** he he he
So does this mean yo could use the Bob Ross bucket and screen and just use water in it instead of paint thinner?
Yes you can BUT make sure you use this stuff when you are all done: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html
WN also makes Artisan Drying medium..,it really does speed things up 😊
I will have to try that - I generally use liquin which is great too BUT I always like options ha ha ha
@@WildCreates does it leave the area shinnier than the areas without the liquin?
I admit I gave up because oil was too much work cleaning up. Beating the brush was toxic. Acrylic doesn't do it for me.
You might really like WM oil paint. Longer try time than acrylics plus its safer to work with. Get a small oil set and give it ago.
Also, all along there is this BS idea that oil paints are more toxic that acrylics. Acrylic contain nasty chemicals and we really don't know what they are putting in them as they are trade secrets. Oil paints can contain edible oils and pigments, but they can contain toxic pigments (as can all color mediums from pastels on up, and acrylics). And they can have other things in with the oil that are toxic. But at their simplest, oil paints are very safe.
The easiest way to deal with brush cleaning is to not clean them. Use a brush dip, or a product that extends the drying time so you can clean brushes once a week.
Well, i get a headache 10 mins after i put oil paint on a palette and start mixing... But can paint with acrylics all day.
All of it!
Thank you
Ha ha ha - NOTED and can do 😉
You can also mix water mix. medium with water, shake it and use it. The result will be outstanding.
I put water into a small jar kb 1 inch high and a few drops of medium. Shake it (that's why you put it into a jar) and use it for thinning.
Excellent, all the beadings and break ups will disappear.
Thanks for sharing :)
I would point out that for people who want safer oil paints or easier cleanup, there are lots of better options out there than water soluble paints. The emulsification of oil in water soluble oils is still a bit of a black box. I wouldn't eat this binder, but there are paint binders that are basically salad oil (before they put vitamin E in everything). The problem is mostly cost and availability, but not everyone has those problems.
Brush cleaning is best just avoided. Brush dip, or using paint that has safe materials used to delay drying can be a lot simpler. One can also use soap and water, thought that is not easier than using water soluble paints. Another option is to use palette knives, they just wipe off.
Although its not my favorite butt it works. You can always use mineral spirits.
Will cleaning with water damage Bob Ross paint brushes?
Over time YES, Which is why I recommend this product here: th-cam.com/video/gDaoXPk-nWQ/w-d-xo.html
It will prevent damage from happening while also cleaning your brushes.
@@WildCreates Thanks so much. Your channel is awesome!
Glad to help - Make sure to hit that sub button
@@WildCreates I did. I watch all of your videos. Your a great teacher!
Also, I bought the The Master's Brush Clean & Preserver and it works great!
Bless great
Glad this video can help you out.
Nice
Thanks for watching,
Make sure to hit that SUB button for awesome video.
W&N has fillers as I recall. I use it for the lower layers but move on to better quality water mixable like Cobra and Holbein for the final layers. Much better control and quality with those and they don't break the bank.
Always good to hear feedback on people using certain products.
Thanks for sharing
There’s an emulsifier inside which acts to keep the oil and water separate!
Thanks for the info 💪
Cool
Glad you enjoyed it 🔥
Thank you , I have never heard of this water oil.
Glad I can show you something new
Opinion: I think they added a certain percentage of clear all-natural ingredient (I think) liquid dishwashing liquid to the paint, and likely the percent would be different for each color of oil paint. The p[ercetange of dishwashing soap used allows some degree of emulsification to take place without overly ill-affecting the normal behavior of the oil paint.
do you mean during the manfucating process? You can look up the chemical makeup of paints to see whats in them to check.
why don't use the 50/50 mix with water mixable oil and linseed oil
You can - I was just showing different options here and some of those options are what the manufacture recommends.
But you can experiment and do whatever ratio you like for the style required.
Would love to see the video using the wet on wet technique. This paint so far, seems the way to go.
Its in the works buddy.,,, just give me a few weeks to GOTOR it done ha ha ha ha
I’ve been trying to use water mixables, and find I’m not so happy, I have nore luck with Bob Ross oils
What are your struggling with... Maybe I have some insight.
I heard water mixable oil paints look and feel slightly different than regular oil paints when dried. Have you noticed this?
The only difference I have really noticed is the smell... but i have a sensitive nose ha ha ha
No artist can tell the difference between normal and WM when they are dried and varnished... provided they are the same quality of paint.
Sounds more like art snobs tossing hate ha ha ha
Can you use regular oil paint with water mixable mediums? 🤔
Yes you can provided they are for oil mediums.
@WildCreates yes, I meant water mixable oil mediums. I have a liquin that says it's for Artisan water mixable oils, but I don't know the difference between that and liquin for regular oil paints... other than that you can still clean your brushes with water. I have a few other water mixable oil mediums too. What if I use regular galkid, or other mediums for regular oils, can I use water mixable oils over that? I guess I'm just going to have to try it and see. Thanks for your help!😄🤗
You can use any WM-Anything with normal oil paints.
Liquin is a medium that speeds up drying times and will hold onto some brush stroke marks
@@WildCreates thanks! Should I use more liquin on the under layers or top? I don't know the level of lean with liquin
You can... you will have to play around with it and see what works best for you style and approach.
Please note that Liquin is an Alkaid - so it may require thinners for cleaning.
One medium, two media.
Haa ha ha - Thanks for watching.
Okay, so the main difference between regular oil paints and the water mixable oil paints is that water-mixable behave like acrylic paints but slow-drying acrylic.
Hello ❤❤❤
Hello there and Thanks for watching,
Make sure to hit that SUB button for awesome video.
@@WildCreates Hay, i have already sub too your channel, i find your videos very entertaining and informative 😀😀😀🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦
I appreciate the sub love
Oil paint manufacturers should name those paints not water mixable, but water WASHABLE or CLEANABLE oil paint. They're like regular oils, just with a bit adjusted oil at molecular level.
Water is just for cleaning your brush without solvents. Don't use water as medium, you just destroying your paint film. And you will notice, that water turns your vibrant paint color dull. To stay solvent free use "water mixable" medium with your paint. Water mixable linseed oil also available. Actually Winsor & Newton has entire line of products to enjoy solvent free oil painting.
You will see some manufacture list their paints as waster-soluble. But I am seeing less of that. Water Mixable is more of a buzz term that grabs attention. W&N has a lot of great products - I use them all the time.
Honestly, I hated them and they ruined a lot of my brushes. And, they were quite expensive. I switched to acrylics after 40 years.
Curious to know... how did they ruin your brushes?
@@WildCreates I cleaned my brushes, as usual. The next time I went to use them, they were rigid and nothing I did could soften them again. Threw them out along with the water based oils.
Interesting cause that shouldn't happen at all unless you didn't clean your brushes thoroughly. I always use the master brush cleaner and preserver at the end of the day... works like a charm. I reccomend it.
@@WildCreates I have used ivory soap and water for 40 years. If I wasn't going to paint in a while, then odorless turp. Apparently, soap wasn't a friend of water based oils.
I don't consider Bob Ross an exceptional artist. He was one dimensional with all of his landscapes and techniques. A good marketing average artist
He was famous for being a teacher and an admirable personality. I have no idea if he had other painting styles he utilized because I've only watched his joy of painting series, which was intended to be easy to follow and quick to achieve. I found his work beautiful as a lover of nature and art is a subjective thing anyway. Your opinion is as valid as mine, but I absolutely loved to watch him paint and I never saw him paint anything I found displeasing.
Art is subjective for the most part - While you might not like it many others do. To each their own.
Most (world) famous artists are “one dimensional”. Be it subject matter or the style they painted in (often both) they had their signature aesthetic… that’s generally what sets them apart & becomes iconic. They find their thing and master it.
Besides what was mentioned here, one of the most important things he did was make art accessible to those that weren’t “artists”. He taught in a way that anyone could create a work of art that gave them pleasure and pride that they would hang on their wall 😊
That is true - I think Bob took it further than expressing his art style... He made others feel they could paint as well. He was pivotal in starting a new generation of artist.
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Thanks for watching.
if you burn the paintings then they are probably more toxic to do that cause they are artificial.
Uhhhhh - Burning any painting is not healthy
@@WildCreates especially when its got wood preservative in it! =)
These waret soluble oils suck!
They are actually really good if you know how to use them correctly
They are awful, neither fish nor foul, they are foul and fishy.
??? You mean the smell of them?
@@WildCreates They feel like they are made of putty or clay , they don't spread as oil should.
sounds like you got a bad or dried out batch
@@WildCreates No , they do not have the properties of oil because they don't contain said oil; they are a con to sucker novices.
Just got water soluble oils trying to get brave enough to try them
Go ahead and try them and when you do... let me know what you think.
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Thank for watching