The IP address on the charger isn't really sensitive because it is an address on the property owner's internal network. The internet-facing address of the router is the one to safeguard.
The colours do matter as you must ensure that the transmit and receive connections stay on the same respective pairs, as it’s a balanced signal. You can use just 2 pairs for 10/100 Ethernet, but you should always stick to the 568B wiring standard.
Really enjoyed this video. Another option could be run the cat5 (my preference is cat6a) from router to the end point and then connect that into a cheap but reliable network switch like a netgear switch. For cables this is going to sound silly but lube works a treat...
You can get some excellent inline IDC couplers for Cat5/6. I need a 110 punch-down, which may look better than Wago's, which I know someone already mentioned. The Jelpack ones are messy AF, and telecoms have used these for years. Excellent job with the cable pull. You wonder, with new builds, why they don't use their brains when installing ducks for any future-proofing.
A network switch would be the easiest way to go but another option that can work well if you don't have an ethernet cable available is to use an Ethernet over power device like a TpLink, just add a single socket outlet at each end of the submain (with rcd / rcbo upstream only) in order to run the ethernet over the power cable. Nice work getting the bigger cable through!
If he took the internal Cat 5 cable from the EV cable to the router, how would he have got the power consumption data from the CT clamps in the fuse board over to the charger in the garage? A genuine question for future reference. :)
Great video as always. You need to get that 3M lube mate I suggested last time, makes an unbelievable amount of difference. Also, if the need another Ethernet point then just use an eithernet over ring (powerline) adapter, they are cheap enough, a TP Link 1GB kit is about £40, they work incredibly well and are super reliable. Installed a set for a customer yesterday for their new smart TV. Keep a kit on the van as a ‘just in case’ measure.
Nice install as always. I would of used a toolless keystone jack on the cable from the router, than crimped an RJ45 on the two pairs. Also for OCD, 1,2 (orange pair) 3,6 (green pair) 😁
Great job. However, Wagos are not appropriate to connect Cat5 cable. There're piercing connectors for that, also need to be enclosed as single insulation on Cat5 has lower voltage rating than power cables.
Just as a question I had a similar thing done with my charger the difference I had was I have pass through WiFi plug sockets with WiFi that works great but I also have the BG electric plug sockets with WiFi boaters on it and I have the choice of two WiFi signals in my garage which is 40 ft away from my house
The cat5/6 colours for those pairs would be the the orange and green. The router should drop back to 100base speed with two pairs only. Fine for your application. Many of my ethernet ports in the house are wired for 2 pairs only, allowing a cable to link two outlets at the lower speed..
As an IT Engineer you don't need to block out any of the IP address in the ranges of 192.168, 172.16. or 10. they are all private internal Reserved addresses they are of no use without an external IP Address, i would say you could block them out if your doing company work they are more likely to have a static IP someone could have before hand but a home connection where your not showing the address that IP Address is useless.
I would suggest to jelly crimp network connection or use a ID network junction box from @TLC electrical, which ties the cable at both ends for secure, neat and less bulky space being used in CU
Brilliant video as always, I’d use Yellow 77 cable lube for pulling, chances are the other cat5 would have made it, not the end of the world for any later additions in the garage as you could always add a netgear Ethernet switch in there and use the cat5 in the ev ultra to port 1 of the switch and a patch cable back to the charger and whatever from the spare ports.
I was just thinking same. I do quite loads of cable pulling on train stations most of the ducting is hard to pull cables through. And cable lube made so much difference. And loads of it on the joint. Good job mate.
Lovely video as always. Imo when connecting cat cables cores I would use bt jelly crimps. Better connection and for example usage on phone cable , wagos cause poor signal
Great video. Can i ask a question please, at time stamp 1:21 you put a disc on the garage floor and then later put the cable reel on top of it so it'll spin freely. I've never seen one of these before, what is this disc device called that goes under the cable reel please as it looks like a time saver and I'd like to get one if it is reasonably priced?
New to your channel but being binging your vids, great job. Something to try is cable lubricant, it really does make a huge differance, Im not sure on the rules for electrical stuff, but we use it in the IT space all the time, its non corrosive, cable safe and non conductive.
So how did the Internet connection start working? As 1,2,3 and 6 were the chosen pairs from the start. Personally, I think you could have got WIFI to the garage, using WIFI repeater/extender if necessary. Use 2.4GHz WIFI to maximize range. The house and garage don't seem that far apart. Another possible option is powerline ethernet devices, that use the electrical cabling to send the internet signals. I don't think the charger needs superfast internet anyway, just good enough.
So I have an interesting question. Regarding having solar , battery backup, electric car charger install. The house main power and meter box is 50 meters away from the house. It’s a 3 phase supply. The power runs from that box to house, Garage, and 2 other buildings. In each building there is a dedicated breaker box. Each building has 3 phase power connection. I want to install solar power on the garage and on the house. Have a battery backup system run from another building. The solar system and battery backup would mainly be to power the house. Is it possible to even do the setup like this?
You can not have 240V wiring (a.k.a. mains cabling) and data cabling such as the CAT5E in this example (who's insulation is usually only rated at 70V MAX), terminating loose such as this, inside of the same enclosure as each other, without additional secondary insulation!! Whilst it is true that Ethernet cabling IS galvanically isolated as the TIA/EIA 568 standards requires it to be, this installation breaks both the 568.3 standards for data cabling and the relevant mains electrical regulations and mains cabling regulations sadly. It may also be of help to take reference of AM2/AM3 in this situation and when carrying out an install of this type too.
Don't want to be one them, just a tip. When tieing two cables together for a pull through. Strip off the sheath then twist a loop with the copper cores. This will be a stronger connection, be less bulky and get through smaller gaps. Hope that makes sense.
Boss is it necessary to install a load curtailment pair and a wifi pair as well while other chargers didn't need wifi connection or they were just in range ?
Why didn't you just use the the data pairs in the cable for the Ethernet connection for the internet and a harvi with two CT clamps for the PV and Grid load. The Harvi wireless CT has great range on the 868 MHz range and will easily travel the distances needed.
Sounds silly but what if you had pulled rope thru first then attempted a 2nd pull with all the wires? Pull one way then pull the opposite way? Cracking video again 👏🏼👏🏼
I enjoy watching your work, I’m an electrician myself, do you mind me asking why you used wagos rather then gel crimps on the data cable? Cheers keep up the good work
I’m going to start using them, it’s one of those things I just didn’t think off but I have been made aware so I’m start using them. Thank you for watching my stuff, really appreciated 👍👍👍
Nice thing about watching your stuff is seeing how slick it is and how even with your level of expertise you are learning to use gel lube and gel crimps
Im no spark but to keep the 1gb connection instead of splitting the pairs on the CAT5 would there be a way to install a switch in the garage and mske connections on the charger and the eolar another way? Dont know the fonnections for rhe solar ect.
Nice video. Seen a lot of your videos on IG but first TH-cam one. Very nice neat install such a shame the customer didn’t want to pull the rope in and even worse that the cat5 came off. In regard to your design here I would recommend in future using a switch fuse isolator at the intake end as you won’t have selectivity between your 63amp mcb and 32amp mcbs in most cases. Secondly with data connections you should use insulation displacement connectors rather then wagos like the little jelly’s they use for BT cables they give a better connection and are much cheaper then wagos. And finally tuff sheathed cable is not suitable for direct burial or being buried within ducting as it doesn’t have suitable mechanical protection.
Hi Harry, thanks for watching, firstly I work closely with Doncaster cables and the EV Ultra is perfectly suitable for ducting, it is also RCD protected. I have not used a 63A MCB so I’m not sure where you have got that from, nor a 32A MCB. Point taken on the CAT5 , others have mentioned this also.
@@sotaelectrical Was a good video for sure. I’ve had to battle similar installations on new builds that lack for thought when installing cabling to garages and car ports etc. Interesting I’ll check out Doncaster’s website further to look into the documentation around the EV ultra would be interested too see how it meets the equivalency of SWA as BS7671 only gives max ccc on direct burial and ducting on multi core armoured. My mistake on the MCBs/RCBO ratings. I assumed you’d installed a 32amp protective device to the car charger as this would give them the max charging rate and assumed you’d install a 63 amp protective device at the front end to provide maximum headroom for future loading. But equally the closer the rating of protective device the higher likelihood of selectivity issues. Also just a point on Doncaster’s website they state the max ccc with max conductor operating temperature of 90°c rather than 70°c which the Fusebox rcbos and also Zappi are rated to 70°c. I’m not here to coat you off by the way I enjoyed your video and just always try to give my opinion as it starts discussion especially where you work alone you may not have the back and forth with anyone for designing circuitry.
DO worry about the colours being right on your Cat5 cable, because standards. Make it easier for the next person. You're right, in so far as you just need to match both ends. But you just end up causing someone else to worry what else you /might/ have done wrong.
Unfortunately there is no answer to that question. There are a lot of factors to take into consideration when designing circuits. If you’re running an swa you need to think about derating factors such as depth of burial, grouping factor, ambient ground and air temperatures and soil resistivity. Also need to take into consideration the loading and the external impedance, volt drop, length of run and protective devices. A 6mm swa in many situations could comfortably take a power and lighting circuit of 16 and 6 amps respectively but you go running 200 meters of cable that all goes out the window. For example I’ve just had to install a 70mm swa for an 80 amp supply which if you look in max ccc tables you’d think a 25mm would be sufficient
I’m sorry if as a network engineer I said to you don’t worry about the colours as long as ones live and ones neutral that’s all that matters you would be the first to have a problem with that. The colours in cat 5 do matter, the twists matter, there is a standard for a reason like there are electrical standards. Using the wrong colours is sloppy work.
Hi Kevin, thanks for commenting, I’m not a network engineer at all but I’m trying to learn, if you watch some of my latest videos you will see I have been making improvements and listening to you engineers taking on board your tips and tricks.
Im going to ask a stupid question. What was that little device that you put the reel of 10sq cable on? The one that turns the reel as the cable is pulled?
Last week i was doing a 1 man job pulling cat 5e off a drum between the basement and 3rd floor - lets just say I got a month of steps in that day. This would have made my life so much easier!!!!!
What are the requirements of 7671 for segregation of voltages? Ev ultra ok, consumer unit... Bit rough but what about the cables that go into the router? No protection if they end up with 230V on them?
@@sotaelectrical they are in a mixed voltage enclosure at garage end. A fault occurs they end up with more voltage on them, that ends up at router and all devices including POE?
@@sotaelectrical i think this comes down to seperation of class 1& class 2 cables creating induced voltage. Data in 230v enlosures is something thats always played on my mind. Great vid & educational as always.
It would burn out pretty quick. Have to say I’m not overly keep to put Cat5 etc inside a CU. There is a anti fire suppressant that you can but that is intumescent material under pressure inside a low melting point container so I’d be tempted to recommend that just in case. However the cat5 would be inside insulation and each pair cable is also insulated. So it’s unlikely but not impossible.
No, you’re not. There has to be separation. But these are CT sensors, so not strictly for a data network. However, if they are sharing the cable for network.. you’re right, it’s bad deployment, esp with joints right next to the bus bar. It wasn’t the guys intention though, so not sure what he ended up doing. I’d think CT’s can share the cat5/6 cable.. LAN etc can’t
Jelly crimps are the answer here. I would have loved if the additional Cat5e worked so that the owner could install a switch in the garage in the future and get full gigabit. Nice if they want to add wifi or a smart tv in the future. But I'm an IT guy.
Look at the state of the brickwork 😮😮😮😮😮 ohhh get yourself a cable sock far better than tape and loops…split load board ,,,,,,why isn’t it got rcbo fitted thought it was new build …mess db house bashers special . You done well again feller clearly had your superman pants on 😂😂😂😂😂
I think you're probably pushing the limits of what you can get away with with all those wago's on ethernet, not sure why you needed the last connection at the garage, weren't all the signals going to the EV charger, why did you need more joints?
The IP address on the charger isn't really sensitive because it is an address on the property owner's internal network. The internet-facing address of the router is the one to safeguard.
Point taken, just didn’t want to upset my client
@@sotaelectrical It never hurts to be cautious, just in case.
@@jimsvideos7201 It doesn't really matter because I can see it anyway.
The colours do matter as you must ensure that the transmit and receive connections stay on the same respective pairs, as it’s a balanced signal. You can use just 2 pairs for 10/100 Ethernet, but you should always stick to the 568B wiring standard.
He's just saying that as long as you match the pairs up correctly at each end then the colours don't matter, it won't affect the connection.
Really enjoyed this video.
Another option could be run the cat5 (my preference is cat6a) from router to the end point and then connect that into a cheap but reliable network switch like a netgear switch.
For cables this is going to sound silly but lube works a treat...
Thanks for watching and for the tip 👊
You can get some excellent inline IDC couplers for Cat5/6. I need a 110 punch-down, which may look better than Wago's, which I know someone already mentioned. The Jelpack ones are messy AF, and telecoms have used these for years.
Excellent job with the cable pull. You wonder, with new builds, why they don't use their brains when installing ducks for any future-proofing.
A network switch would be the easiest way to go but another option that can work well if you don't have an ethernet cable available is to use an Ethernet over power device like a TpLink, just add a single socket outlet at each end of the submain (with rcd / rcbo upstream only) in order to run the ethernet over the power cable. Nice work getting the bigger cable through!
Thank you for the advice!! Much appreciated 👍👍
just stick a network switch in the in the garage, only one cat 6 needed then have all devices connected
Yup ... a misunderstanding of how digital networks do the routing. One network cable can carry everything if plugged into a cheap small switch/hub.
If he took the internal Cat 5 cable from the EV cable to the router, how would he have got the power consumption data from the CT clamps in the fuse board over to the charger in the garage? A genuine question for future reference. :)
Great video as always.
You need to get that 3M lube mate I suggested last time, makes an unbelievable amount of difference.
Also, if the need another Ethernet point then just use an eithernet over ring (powerline) adapter, they are cheap enough, a TP Link 1GB kit is about £40, they work incredibly well and are super reliable.
Installed a set for a customer yesterday for their new smart TV. Keep a kit on the van as a ‘just in case’ measure.
Yes mate thanks for the tips as always!!
Why not just put a switch in the garage?
Another vote for the lube. Makes a huge difference
0:58 the effort somebody put into making that cable look tidy but difficult to work on later
Nice install as always. I would of used a toolless keystone jack on the cable from the router, than crimped an RJ45 on the two pairs. Also for OCD, 1,2 (orange pair) 3,6 (green pair) 😁
These are things I don’t know about so I shall go away and learn!
Can measure the resistance of the 2.5 next time to gauge how long the duct is from the reference tables 👍
Ive done a few like that. The sooner house builder's realise that its better to fit a decent sized cable the better. I can make it work with a 6mm
Exactly agree mate
Realise? It's minimum input maximum profit..nothing else matters😊
"Sometimes in life, you gotta just go for it!"
Words to live by.
Love it
Great work.....never doubted you would get it installed and working......5 star service!
Thanks Derren you Legend!!
It would make sense in new builds to have a spare conduit ready for upgrades
Ha ha yes it would so that won't happen
Agree !
I'm so glad I'm out of this trade now and retired.
Great job. However, Wagos are not appropriate to connect Cat5 cable. There're piercing connectors for that, also need to be enclosed as single insulation on Cat5 has lower voltage rating than power cables.
Just as a question I had a similar thing done with my charger the difference I had was I have pass through WiFi plug sockets with WiFi that works great but I also have the BG electric plug sockets with WiFi boaters on it and I have the choice of two WiFi signals in my garage which is 40 ft away from my house
The cat5/6 colours for those pairs would be the the orange and green. The router should drop back to 100base speed with two pairs only. Fine for your application. Many of my ethernet ports in the house are wired for 2 pairs only, allowing a cable to link two outlets at the lower speed..
Yeah you can use 2 pairs for a Base 10 connection it is in the specs and is the minimum supported with a RJ45 interface.
Cracking job - some great suggestions .Never cut spare conductors off.
Thank you 👍👍
As an IT Engineer you don't need to block out any of the IP address in the ranges of 192.168, 172.16. or 10. they are all private internal Reserved addresses they are of no use without an external IP Address, i would say you could block them out if your doing company work they are more likely to have a static IP someone could have before hand but a home connection where your not showing the address that IP Address is useless.
Just being courteous
I would suggest to jelly crimp network connection or use a ID network junction box from @TLC electrical, which ties the cable at both ends for secure, neat and less bulky space being used in CU
Ok thanks for the tip! Il look into this!
Brilliant video as always, I’d use Yellow 77 cable lube for pulling, chances are the other cat5 would have made it, not the end of the world for any later additions in the garage as you could always add a netgear Ethernet switch in there and use the cat5 in the ev ultra to port 1 of the switch and a patch cable back to the charger and whatever from the spare ports.
Thanks mate, yeah I need to get some yellow 77!!
I was just thinking same. I do quite loads of cable pulling on train stations most of the ducting is hard to pull cables through. And cable lube made so much difference. And loads of it on the joint.
Good job mate.
@@milansusuk8164 thanks mate 👍
Always thought yellow 77 was no good personally
Lovely video as always. Imo when connecting cat cables cores I would use bt jelly crimps. Better connection and for example usage on phone cable , wagos cause poor signal
Got it thanks mate
Lube the joint up with washing up liquid, works every time
Thanks for the advice mate 👍👍
Great video. Can i ask a question please, at time stamp 1:21 you put a disc on the garage floor and then later put the cable reel on top of it so it'll spin freely. I've never seen one of these before, what is this disc device called that goes under the cable reel please as it looks like a time saver and I'd like to get one if it is reasonably priced?
Thank you!! That is called a runpotek cable roller, it’s not cheap but worth it
New to your channel but being binging your vids, great job. Something to try is cable lubricant, it really does make a huge differance, Im not sure on the rules for electrical stuff, but we use it in the IT space all the time, its non corrosive, cable safe and non conductive.
Thank you for watching my videos!! Really appreciate it! Yes point taken, il get a tub 👊
Nice job. And also the camera work and editing is first class, really polished.
Thank you, really appreciated 👍
While the colours don't matter, you must keep the signals on pairs
So how did the Internet connection start working? As 1,2,3 and 6 were the chosen pairs from the start. Personally, I think you could have got WIFI to the garage, using WIFI repeater/extender if necessary. Use 2.4GHz WIFI to maximize range. The house and garage don't seem that far apart. Another possible option is powerline ethernet devices, that use the electrical cabling to send the internet signals. I don't think the charger needs superfast internet anyway, just good enough.
Nice work 👏 running wires to the router its better choice but wireless radio p2p will help if the charger unit far away
Thank you 👍👍
for future ref. in case you get stuck with 1 pair, you can run ethernet over 1 pair using VDSL converters at each end.
That’s brilliant to know!! Thanks for the tip, really useful, ill have to do some more learning into this 👍👍
@@sotaelectrical Google for ‘Ethernet over VDSL2 converter’. They can do quite a distance.
So I have an interesting question. Regarding having solar , battery backup, electric car charger install.
The house main power and meter box is 50 meters away from the house. It’s a 3 phase supply. The power runs from that box to house, Garage, and 2 other buildings.
In each building there is a dedicated breaker box. Each building has 3 phase power connection.
I want to install solar power on the garage and on the house. Have a battery backup system run from another building. The solar system and battery backup would mainly be to power the house.
Is it possible to even do the setup like this?
You will need to install the grid CTs at the meter position. If the supply's for each building come from the meter position
Hi, great video 👌👌 A quick question, the CT for PV solar is it rated 0-100A compered with the other CT of main supply or lower?
Thank you
The CT’s are the same, I’m not really following what your asking my friend
Perhaps consider using ideal yellow.
You can not have 240V wiring (a.k.a. mains cabling) and data cabling such as the CAT5E in this example (who's insulation is usually only rated at 70V MAX), terminating loose such as this, inside of the same enclosure as each other, without additional secondary insulation!!
Whilst it is true that Ethernet cabling IS galvanically isolated as the TIA/EIA 568 standards requires it to be, this installation breaks both the 568.3 standards for data cabling and the relevant mains electrical regulations and mains cabling regulations sadly.
It may also be of help to take reference of AM2/AM3 in this situation and when carrying out an install of this type too.
Don't want to be one them, just a tip. When tieing two cables together for a pull through. Strip off the sheath then twist a loop with the copper cores. This will be a stronger connection, be less bulky and get through smaller gaps. Hope that makes sense.
That is literally what I did my man 👍
With two pairs you are limited to 100Mbps rather than 1Gbps on the link. Won't be much of an isue for the charger.
Nice work by the way
Thank you!! Every days a school day
Might want a switch in there with cctv IP camera so always best to get 4 pairs for max performance
Love the videos mate, keep them coming.
Thank you mate 👍👊
Boss is it necessary to install a load curtailment pair and a wifi pair as well while other chargers didn't need wifi connection or they were just in range ?
Hello mate, load curtailment I would always advise, if the charger is in WiFi range then that’s fine 👍👍
Cracking video mate 👌🏻
Thank you mate you legend 👊
Excellent work well done.
Thank you 👍👍
Tidy install as always mate 👍
Thank you mate
Why didn't you just use the the data pairs in the cable for the Ethernet connection for the internet and a harvi with two CT clamps for the PV and Grid load. The Harvi wireless CT has great range on the 868 MHz range and will easily travel the distances needed.
Because if you read the install instructions that come with the Zappi, they state not to use the harvi for the grid 👍👍
Sounds silly but what if you had pulled rope thru first then attempted a 2nd pull with all the wires?
Pull one way then pull the opposite way?
Cracking video again 👏🏼👏🏼
3:26 - I do like your van.
Thank you sir
you only get 100mbit with 2 pairs, but thats all the charger will need. I'd have used the proper colours and then used the others for the CTs
Perfect 👌
Could you not use a powered ethernet splitter?
Your van is sick, also chuckled at the attempt at privatising a 192.168 address haha.
🤣
I enjoy watching your work, I’m an electrician myself, do you mind me asking why you used wagos rather then gel crimps on the data cable? Cheers keep up the good work
I’m going to start using them, it’s one of those things I just didn’t think off but I have been made aware so I’m start using them.
Thank you for watching my stuff, really appreciated 👍👍👍
Nice thing about watching your stuff is seeing how slick it is and how even with your level of expertise you are learning to use gel lube and gel crimps
@@brianoneill350 thank you sir
Do you live the cables before pulling through? I saw a hack where you can use dish soap to help pull through ducting 😋
Warm your rolls of tape up by rubbing them the heat will let them come off nicely
The best way to heat them is keep one in your front pocket when you leave the house, qorks a treat.
I thought ZAPPI did wireless CT clamps ? Not sure the range .. would free up some cores.
It does but it would have been a bit touch and go with the distance on this one
Where did you get the van canopy?
If you google rear van door canopy they will come up
Im no spark but to keep the 1gb connection instead of splitting the pairs on the CAT5 would there be a way to install a switch in the garage and mske connections on the charger and the eolar another way? Dont know the fonnections for rhe solar ect.
Problem is the CT signals are just analog current signals so you can't transport them over ethernet, need dedicated colours
Nice video. Seen a lot of your videos on IG but first TH-cam one. Very nice neat install such a shame the customer didn’t want to pull the rope in and even worse that the cat5 came off.
In regard to your design here I would recommend in future using a switch fuse isolator at the intake end as you won’t have selectivity between your 63amp mcb and 32amp mcbs in most cases.
Secondly with data connections you should use insulation displacement connectors rather then wagos like the little jelly’s they use for BT cables they give a better connection and are much cheaper then wagos.
And finally tuff sheathed cable is not suitable for direct burial or being buried within ducting as it doesn’t have suitable mechanical protection.
Hi Harry, thanks for watching, firstly I work closely with Doncaster cables and the EV Ultra is perfectly suitable for ducting, it is also RCD protected. I have not used a 63A MCB so I’m not sure where you have got that from, nor a 32A MCB.
Point taken on the CAT5 , others have mentioned this also.
@@sotaelectrical Was a good video for sure. I’ve had to battle similar installations on new builds that lack for thought when installing cabling to garages and car ports etc.
Interesting I’ll check out Doncaster’s website further to look into the documentation around the EV ultra would be interested too see how it meets the equivalency of SWA as BS7671 only gives max ccc on direct burial and ducting on multi core armoured.
My mistake on the MCBs/RCBO ratings. I assumed you’d installed a 32amp protective device to the car charger as this would give them the max charging rate and assumed you’d install a 63 amp protective device at the front end to provide maximum headroom for future loading. But equally the closer the rating of protective device the higher likelihood of selectivity issues.
Also just a point on Doncaster’s website they state the max ccc with max conductor operating temperature of 90°c rather than 70°c which the Fusebox rcbos and also Zappi are rated to 70°c.
I’m not here to coat you off by the way I enjoyed your video and just always try to give my opinion as it starts discussion especially where you work alone you may not have the back and forth with anyone for designing circuitry.
Whats the crack with EV ultra under ground? Doent it need to be SWA?
It does really or be in a duct
Great Video bro, must have missed you mention but how come no Harvi?
Thanks bro, no need for a harvi mate?
Crazy that on a new build EV charger cabling *at least* isnt in place.
I know, it’s such a common scenario
Not fix the meter tails to the wall?
DO worry about the colours being right on your Cat5 cable, because standards. Make it easier for the next person. You're right, in so far as you just need to match both ends. But you just end up causing someone else to worry what else you /might/ have done wrong.
Points all noted, thanks for watching, appreciate it 👍
How many lights and sockets can go on 6mm swa? Is 10mm swa over kill for a garage if it doesn’t have an ev charger?
Unfortunately there is no answer to that question. There are a lot of factors to take into consideration when designing circuits.
If you’re running an swa you need to think about derating factors such as depth of burial, grouping factor, ambient ground and air temperatures and soil resistivity.
Also need to take into consideration the loading and the external impedance, volt drop, length of run and protective devices.
A 6mm swa in many situations could comfortably take a power and lighting circuit of 16 and 6 amps respectively but you go running 200 meters of cable that all goes out the window.
For example I’ve just had to install a 70mm swa for an 80 amp supply which if you look in max ccc tables you’d think a 25mm would be sufficient
Always enjoy your videos ! 😊
Thank you 👍
I use TP link for the network connection
They are a good option
Next time... Cable lubricant. It's a thing, and would've helped massively 👍🏼
9:37 state of that brickwork
You can use 2 pairs for internet ok my hypervolt is like it
But think it’s only 100mb with 2 pair
I can't believe they are still putting CUs and even incommers under wooden stairs, in a new build!? (6:29)
Liberal amounts of yellow 77 cable lubricant would help with similar pulls in future...
Understood 👍
I’m sorry if as a network engineer I said to you don’t worry about the colours as long as ones live and ones neutral that’s all that matters you would be the first to have a problem with that.
The colours in cat 5 do matter, the twists matter, there is a standard for a reason like there are electrical standards.
Using the wrong colours is sloppy work.
Hi Kevin, thanks for commenting, I’m not a network engineer at all but I’m trying to learn, if you watch some of my latest videos you will see I have been making improvements and listening to you engineers taking on board your tips and tricks.
THE BRICKWORK- 1:34 electrical engineering student, 17, and even I am disgusted by the brickwork.
Im going to ask a stupid question. What was that little device that you put the reel of 10sq cable on? The one that turns the reel as the cable is pulled?
No question is a stupid question, it’s called a runpotek cable roller 👍
@@sotaelectrical thanks a million - guess what Im going to buy myself now!!!!!
Last week i was doing a 1 man job pulling cat 5e off a drum between the basement and 3rd floor - lets just say I got a month of steps in that day. This would have made my life so much easier!!!!!
@@collsoftlimited7218 it’s not the cheapest but it is brilliant
@@sotaelectrical time is money and that would have saved me a huge amount of time and made things a lot easier
you don't need to block 192.168 address of 172. address or 10.0.0 address.. there all local networks cant be tracked
Yeah I didn’t know that, just tried to do the right thing with my lack of knowledge on it
@@sotaelectrical No worries bud. Just sharing knowledge.. now you know :-) have a good one!
@@oderbang thanks mate, you too!!
I just watched your insta video and thought what the fuck and had to come here. Thanks for the longer explanation 😂❤️🙏🏻
🤣 thanks for watching 👍👍
What are the requirements of 7671 for segregation of voltages? Ev ultra ok, consumer unit... Bit rough but what about the cables that go into the router? No protection if they end up with 230V on them?
How would they end up with voltage on them, explain that to me
@@sotaelectrical they are in a mixed voltage enclosure at garage end. A fault occurs they end up with more voltage on them, that ends up at router and all devices including POE?
@@guyrumsey5023 but how would a fault occur??
@@sotaelectrical I don't know perhaps any of the scenarios identified by IEC? It's unlikely but possible.
@@sotaelectrical i think this comes down to seperation of class 1& class 2 cables creating induced voltage. Data in 230v enlosures is something thats always played on my mind. Great vid & educational as always.
great job.subbed,
Thank you 👍👍
4:26 - bet you wish you pulled that nylon draw-rope in as well now? ;-)
Why not just install a switch rather than trying to run multiple cat5 or trying to split the pairs to 100mbps?
I’m not over knowledgeable with comms wiring so I need to do some learning, appreciate all the tips I have received on here
If the customer ever wants faster ethernet in the garage you could install a harvi at the meter position
The harvi is not used for Ethernet buddy
What you charge for all that?
Not a good idea to have a cat 5 inside a consumer unit better of outside.🙂
Networking bloke here. I'm going to have to research how you got away with just 2 pairs!
God knows but it worked 🤣
@@sotaelectrical It'll Just be 100 Mb/s ethernet rather than 1000Mb/s you could have used only 1 pair and got 10Mb/s
@@jeffreydoujon638 thanks for the info
Maybe an amoured network may habe pulled better or even fiber ifvyoyr feeling reslky brave
7:04 Today in this episode, how an electrician can make a network cabling guy yell at the monitor using wago's to connect CAT cable together! 🤦♂🤷♂
Yeah sorry about that mate
Great video.Quick question-if you lose the internet does that prevent you charging your car?
Thank you, no you will still be able to use the charger
@@sotaelectrical Thanks👍.
Non electrician, are you really allowed to put the CAT5 (low voltage) inside a 240v fuse board? If there was a short…..
It would burn out pretty quick. Have to say I’m not overly keep to put Cat5 etc inside a CU. There is a anti fire suppressant that you can but that is intumescent material under pressure inside a low melting point container so I’d be tempted to recommend that just in case. However the cat5 would be inside insulation and each pair cable is also insulated. So it’s unlikely but not impossible.
No, you’re not. There has to be separation. But these are CT sensors, so not strictly for a data network. However, if they are sharing the cable for network.. you’re right, it’s bad deployment, esp with joints right next to the bus bar. It wasn’t the guys intention though, so not sure what he ended up doing. I’d think CT’s can share the cat5/6 cable.. LAN etc can’t
Or you could have just used an Ethernet switch in the garage.
U really r a MEGGA sparky!😎😎😎
👊
How can ee reach you we have a perfect job for you ?
Email me
If you have high blood pressure watch him, he made the hardest things very simple and easy love your videos
Thank you mate really appreciate that 👍
get your self some jelly crimps much cheaper and much better than using wagos on ethernet and ct cables
Ok mate on it
Are the CT cables stranded? I was under the impression jelly crimps are like IDC, only for solid core.
@@tschubb1992 the CT’s are stranded
@@tschubb1992 they still work perfectly fine and use them more for the connection of the Ethernet cable
Jelly crimps are the answer here. I would have loved if the additional Cat5e worked so that the owner could install a switch in the garage in the future and get full gigabit. Nice if they want to add wifi or a smart tv in the future. But I'm an IT guy.
Just get a network switch!!
I don’t know what that is 🤣
Homeowner could have done it himself then got it certified, no?
No I’m afraid not, no good spark will sign off a ‘have a go job’
@@sotaelectrical but you said he was a spark before? Smarter than your average bear 😆
@@beano6452 yeah correct but I still wouldn’t sign it off, I don’t know his experience
@@beano6452 please also bare in mind I make tons of videos so what happens in every single one is not fresh in my mind 👍
Look at the state of the brickwork 😮😮😮😮😮 ohhh get yourself a cable sock far better than tape and loops…split load board ,,,,,,why isn’t it got rcbo fitted thought it was new build …mess db house bashers special . You done well again feller clearly had your superman pants on 😂😂😂😂😂
Yeah I have to get one!! I know mate, shocking that split load boards are going in and it was a mess!! Thank you mate 🤣🤣👊👊
@@sotaelectrical customer was ex spark clearly seen the light our games had it.
Your customer should have used a home mesh for the internet. The difference between Electricians and Engineers…sorry if I sound arrogant.
And now you wont get more than 100mbps on that cable
No more needed
I think you're probably pushing the limits of what you can get away with with all those wago's on ethernet, not sure why you needed the last connection at the garage, weren't all the signals going to the EV charger, why did you need more joints?
The 10mm went in the garage C/U not the charger, I had a 6mm from the garage C/U to the charger so they needed joining.
Aren't new houses supposed to have EV chargers? Developers flouting the rules.