QUESTION: At 5:25 you start the explanation of a Choke Plate and the importance of temperature related to a cold engine. This is the way it is with my Cub Cadet mower. The mower recently had the problem of starting up on the first pull easy enough, but then it would shut off after about 20 seconds. The Thermostat measuring part was replaced. After that, the mower would stay on again; however, the engine did seem to randomly be missing beats. The new BIG problem was that the mower takes over 15 pulls to get it to start up cold. In comparison, after having run for a while, the mower starts on the first or second pull. Clearly, the factor of "Temperature" is involved in starting the mower. This mower won't start "cold" easily. The mower actually started on five or six pulls on an 82-degree day. But on a 60-degree day yesterday, it took 15 pulls to get the mower to start. Do you have a suggestion to fix this?
I'm a DIY'er for life. I fix my cars and motorcycles and everything else I have encountered in life to date, at 62 yrs young I have met my first lawn mower. I went surfing for help with the troubleshooting for this mower that won't remain running after I put some gas into the compression chamber as a troubleshooting step beyond verifying that there was spark to the new plug. I came across your video. I just wanted to say thank you. this is a great job of adding video for each trouble shooting problem. great job. Thanks again.
This is the best!!! I thought I had to take my lawnmower to a service person BUT through this DIY video I was able to get my lawnmower to start and it runs great. Thank you so much!!!
This is amazing. I almost never comment but this video is perfect. I figured out that the gas I was using got contaminated with water. Flushed /washed the tank and now it's drying. Thanks!
Thank you sir! Our 725 Series was a gift for Christmas, we never got it to run, and the new mower came without a manual. Your instructions worked......I now know how to field strip it, put it back together, and even start the darned thing......It was the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank.....Much appreciated! As Ever in Christ - John Paranuk Jr.
My mower wouldn’t start after the winter season, I pulled the spark plug and pumped a little fuel in there then put the spark plug back and it ran for about two seconds so I knew it was fuel related. I pulled the top shroud and set it aside removed the fuel tank and drained it to check for sediment or bad fuel, then the carburetor was came right out without any issues and I pulled the bottom bowl off completely.. it was all clean inside. I actuated the float and the needle for a few times and blew through all the different openings to make sure they were unimpeded and then reassembled everything ….it started up on The third pull. Thank you very much for this how to tutorial
Honestly, watched 2:45 of the vid. Cleaned and fully connected spark plugs (loose) and dumped the gas replacing with new gas. 3-4 pulls later, vroom. Thanks for the tips.
Really great video! Clear diagnostic steps, great explanations of the systems, and really fine camera work. I particularly love the links to other helpful videos based on which problems are discovered. Also doesn't hurt that the engine in the video is nearly identical to the Briggs and Stratton in my 21" Husqvarna push mower. I feel so much more confident in my ability to work on my own mower now.
Thanks so much appreciate your help. I only used it once so it has to be starter fluid because everything looks clean if not that stabilizer again Thanks for sharing Deb
after spraying in the starting fluid it started then shut off, so i followed all of the instructions. I took everything apart, cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor based on the linked video. Took the gas tank off, emptied it, cleaned it, let it completely dry. Put back together. Added new gas and a new filter. It started for 2 secs then shut back off and won’t start again. I don’t know what to do now. I’m so frustrated as it’s only a year old and only used a few times.
Ok, Good vid. My Mower will start, but will not stay running. Fuel line is clean, new fuel, new spark plug. Is there a lever or spring that connect the brake system and throttle system. when I engage the brake release handle to start the mower the throttle behind the air filter box doesn't move.
Hi, I bought this craftswan 526 series brand new for 8 years now but only run for few times. Now I want to use it. before I startup, what should process I need to do? Please help. Thanks
I like how MARSOC's official TH-cam channel favorited a video on how to diagnose problems in a Lawn Mower. Guess even the most Elite of Marines are still prey to the notorious Green Weenie
Procedure for adjusting the intake and exhaust valve clearance would be much appreciated. I have a model 247377000 with a Briggs and Stratton engine just like the one in your video. Are both the intake and exhaust valve clearances adjusted with the cylinder head position at top dead center ? Are both valve clearance specs .005 ?
Although we don't have a video for adjusting valve clearance on that exact type of engine, you should be able to us the procedure shown in this video/illustrated guide for a similar OHV snowblower engine: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/snowblower/how-to-adjust-the-valve-lash-on-a-snowblower.html . The valve clearance specs for both valves is .004 - .008 in at top dead center so .005 will work. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Craftsman riding 21 hp mower will not roll over with spark plug in (will with plug out). Checked intake and exhaust valve settings. Done to specifications. Still will not roll over. What suggestions? Thanks!
Check the battery and starter. A weak battery or starter may spin the engine with the spark plug out but not with the plug in. Also, deposits on the piston, cylinder or head can increase the torque needed to spin the engine with the plug in. Clean those components if you find heavy deposits.
Not exactly related to this video, but I have searched everywhere to no avail. I have viewed at least 20 videos. My 7.25 HP Craftsman mower will not start when hot. Starts easy when cold and runs great but when I stop to empty the bag, it won't restart. I have replaced the gas, air filter, spark plug and carb and it still won't start when hot. If I squirt some gas in the carb when it's hot, it will start and run fine til I have to empty the bag again. When I squirt the gas in the carb, it hisses so it's pretty hot. Any ideas?
A clogged air vent on the gas cap of some engine models can prevent fuel from reaching the carburetor but a missing gasket likely won’t cause the engine to stall out after starting. Check inside the tank for gasket debris that could be clogging the tank outlet.
Check the air filter first. A drenched air filter won’t allow air into the carburetor and engine. If you find the air filter soaked with water, dry it out or replace it. Restoring airflow to the carburetor and engine may fix your starting problem. If that doesn’t help, remove the air filter and spray a small amount of starter fluid into the air intake as shown at 1:28 in the video. If the engine starts and runs briefly using the starter fluid, then you’ve narrowed the cause of your problem to the fuel supply. Replace the fuel in the gas tank with fresh gasoline. You may also need to remove the carburetor and empty the carburetor’s float bowl. Here’s a video that shows how to remove and rebuild the carburetor: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/walk-behind-lawn-mower/how-to-replace-a-mower-recoil-starter-assembly.html. The video shows how to remove the carburetor float bowl at 1:46. Empty the float bowl and reassemble the mower.
Good video. But I would like to see one that includes a common problem: The magnet on the flywheel that produces the spark can slowly lose its power to the point where you cannot pull start it. You can start it by engaging the flywheel nut with an electric drill and get it going fast enough. You could then discard the pull starter, make holes in the start housing and trim cover, and use the drill to start, but this is not very practical. Too bad that most of those magnets are ferrite ceramics rather than Niobium super magnets.
Could a ignition coil over 6.5 Ohms cause the performance of the engine to run poorly? I've checked all the things you mentioned in this video, and from what I can tell, everything's okay. Engine starts but runs as if I have the throttle set on low, but there is no throttle control unless you fool with the governor spring. I can do that, but that isn't a long term fix, there is something else going on. The mower performed well just the day before, now it's puttering.
Because you seem to indicate that the engine runs better when you fool with the governor spring, a bad ignition coil likely isn't causing the engine to sputter. A problem with the governor, governor linkage could be causing the engine to sputter. On some engines, a problem with the choke or choke linkage could also cause the engine to sputter. Let us know the model number of your mower (or the engine model number) and we'll provide additional help if you need it.
@@searspartsdirect - Thanks for replying. Model # is MTD 11A-B25F799 ( 675ex Gold Engine Series). I've run the engine with the air filter off to check the linkage, and they all seem to be working fine. I've read that the ignition coil range should be between 2.5 and 5.0 Ohms. If over that amount, would that affect the performance of the engine?
@@Nick23at63 Thanks for providing that model number. According to the parts listing, that mower should have Briggs & Stratton engine model 126M02-0345-F1. Briggs & Stratton recommends testing for spark using a spark plug tester rather than measuring the resistance through the ignition coil. Your specification of 2.5K to 5K ohms for coil resistance is likely valid. Measuring 6.5K ohms through the ignition coil is not too far out of that specification. There's a chance that the ignition coil is bad and it's causing the engine to sputter. Before you consider replacing the ignition coil, try to let the engine warm up even though it's sputtering and see if the engine runs smoothly when it gets hot. If the engine runs smoothly when hot, then the ignition coil is likely okay. If the engine sputters even when it's hot, then replacing the ignition coil may fix the problem.
Please explain the phenomena of double grounded spark plugs. Outside of cylinder I have spark. Inside has no spark. I'm still studying this issue, thanks
The spark may be jumping to ground outside the cylinder but not jumping to the center electrode when you have the plug inside the cylinder. If you use a spark plug tester as shown at 2:12 in the video and don’t see the tester spark, you may need to replace the spark plug.
If you suspect bad gas... take your carburetor off and make sure all the fuel is out. I've done all the other stuff... but it start until I got bad fuel out of carburetor.
Hi I left gas in my mower over the winter, now it won't start. I replaced new gas, and the mower would only start after I tilt it to the right. Then it would stall within a few seconds. I repeated the process over about 10 tens and it still does the same. Can you please provide some pointers? My mower is craftman, looks the same as yours, could be the same one. It's a 6.75 engine. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Based on your description of the problem, the carburetor is probably clogged. Replacing the carburetor is the easiest fix because the carburetor for this type of engine is relatively inexpensive. Rebuilding the carburetor may also fix your problem but that repair is more difficult and doesn’t cost that much less than replacing the entire carburetor. To find the correct carburetor or carburetor rebuild kit, you’ll need the engine model number. Look up the engine model number in your owner’s manual or on the Sears PartsDirect parts list for your lawn mower model number. The engine model number for a 6.75 engine will probably look something like this: 126M02-1031-F1. Order the correct part and replace or rebuild that carburetor and the engine will likely run properly. Let us know if you need more help.
Many lawn tractors have interlock switches such as a seat switch that will prevent the engine from starting. Check your owner’s manual for a wiring diagram of the electrical system and reconnect any loose wires that you find on interlock switches or other electrical components. Replace any defective switches or components. If you need more help, let us know the model number of your lawn tractor and we’ll assist you further.
Your details sound like you've narrowed the problem down to a fuel supply issue. Stale gasoline in the fuel tank and carburetor bowl can prevent the engine from starting. If the gasoline in the tank and carburetor is older than 6 months, move the mower to a well ventilated area and drain the fuel tank. You may need to drain the fuel out of the carburetor float bowl too. Refill the fuel tank with fresh gasoline. If the mower still won't start, you may need to rebuild or replace the carburetor. Here's a repair guide/video that shows how to rebuild a carburetor on a typical Briggs & Stratton engine: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-rebuild-a-lawn-mower-carburetor . We hope this information helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
Tilting the mower forward or to the carburetor side is a common cause of oil coming out of the carburetor. If you tilted the mower forward or to the side with the carburetor facing downward, then the cylinder may also have filled with oil. Remove the spark plug and pull the starter rope several times. The piston will force the oil out of the cylinder through the spark plug hole. You can then reinstall the spark plug and start the engine. The engine will spew some black smoke out for a while until it burns off the residual oil in the cylinder then the mower should run smoothly. Overfilling the engine with oil can cause oil come out the carburetor or the breather tube which is next to the carburetor. The oil will typically soak the air filter so you may not be able to tell whether the oil came out of the carburetor or the breather tube. Sometimes it comes out both. Check your oil level and drain out some oil if you overfilled the engine with oil. Serious engine problems such as a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder or worn piston rings can cause oil to come out of the carburetor and/or breather tube. You’ll typically have to tear down the engine to find these types of problems. You can also have a service technician repair the engine if you suspect that it has this type of serious internal failure.
I have a 917258550 riding lawn mower. This belonged to a previous owner. I am trying to get it going. I can't get a spark from the spark plug. I have placed my thumb on the spark plug hole and turned it over. It pushed my thumb away! So I do have compression. How Much exactly - I do not know yet! I know it should be between 60 to 100 for this mower. I will get a guage eventually and check it. No matter this brings me to the spark plug spark. I have replaced the spark plug and ignition coil. I gapped it to .011. I have unhooked the kill/grounding wire from the back of the ignition coil and still no spark!!!!!!!! What would be next to check????????????????? My best guess is to get a new flywheel for the magnets. Does the magnets on the flywheel have anything to do w/ the spark plug spark???
The magnets help the ignition coil generate the spark as they pass by the coil. The flywheel magnets don’t wear out. You may have an interlock switch in the ignition circuit that is grounding ignition coil. We recommend that you check the operation of the seat switch and blade interlock switch. Replace any switch that doesn’t work. Repair or replace any broken wires that connect to the switches.
I am going to need to rewire the lawn mower according to the wire diagram, but in the mean time I thought that unhooking the "kill/grounding" wire from the back of the ignition coil would let it produce spark from the plug?? Thanks for the info on the flywheel because I almost ordered one but decided to wait for YOUR opinion!!
Check the fuel line and fuel filter for clogs. The mower may have a restriction or clog in the fuel path between the tank and the carburetor. Also, check the vent holes in the fuel cap for clogs. The engine won’t get fuel if those vent holes get clogged. If you need more help, post additional details and we’ll try to assist you further.
I have the same issue , I replaced the carb and all gaskets and it won't prime or run. I replaced the primer bulb, fuel , spark plug and air filter. Any help ? Did you get yours running?
sure I did.my mower is 6.0 craftsman no choke plate .engine sucks gas by compression of the cylinders moving up and down. carburetor can not send fuel to engine by itself .gas get sucked from engine so I checked the compression first connecting a gauge into the spark plug .it was fair for 14 yr old mower .what made it work was there is a metal pipe right after carburetor to the engine I sealed that up with gasket maker rtv cos gasket was worn it run for the first time after long tries.so maybe it was sucking air instead of fuel.let us know what works for u.if the engine does not provide suction .it might be a bad engine this sucker has everything like a car does.thanks sears for video
use premium fuel in small engine , for some reason it works better and does not gum up in a carburetor after long storage , second if you have a fuel valve turn it off while the engine is running and wait until the fuel dries out from the carburetor , Fuel left in the carburetor for a long time will dry up and damage the carburetor , installing a fuel shut off valve is easy , If engine is hard to start remove the spark plug and use a propane torch burn off the Corbin residue and whatever might be on the spark plug , I do it until the Central Electric and the ground electroid get red hot , of course wait until the spark plug cool down before reinstalling it , in the Old Country Palestine we used to put a small amount of gasoline on the ground put the spark plug in the middle of it and set it on fire , that always worked to get us out of a jam ,
You should never us starter fluid or ether to try and start the engine, using this fluid can blow your engine apart and you will get hurt bad if it does. Instead use a little gas in a spray bottle and squirt some into the carb and try and start the engine that way.
Why do a compression test on a engine that's got a centrifugal decompressor in it?? It will give a total false reading you could never pull it over fast enough to give you a good reading a leakage test is the best way
The compression test often indicates whether you have a compression problem. You are correct that a compression leak down test as described in the engine’s shop manual is the best way to diagnose and repair a compression problem. We didn’t cover that procedure in this video because it’s an advanced engine test that requires special tools and expertise. We continually add more DIY videos so we may cover the compression leak down test in future engine troubleshooting videos.
this video does not adress the fact that all these three things need to happen at the right TIME. also, "right amount of compression to drive the piston." this is parcially incorrect. though these three things work together to drive the piston, it is not the job of compression. the job of compression is to compress the fuel/air mixture to the point where it is combustible. I'm surprised that sears got this wrong
Just purchased the Sears M110 - cc 21 inch gas push mower. I did all the pre adjustments, added oil, gasoline and the pull rope is seized as it only stretches out about 5 inches and won't pull out any more. I also noticed the blade strikes underneath the mower deck. I thought Sears and Briggs and Stratton were good manufacturers but I was wrong. This mower does not start right out of the box. Very disappointing. DO NOT recommend
If the blade hits the handle that protrudes through the deck, pull the handle up and install the mounting bolts to hold the handle properly in place. That may fix the problem that you're describing.
Fiskars StaySharp Max Reel Mower th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend This is what all push mowers should strive for. It was easy to push. It cut the lawn. The blades are sharp, very sharp. The one minus that everyone should be aware of is you need to be very careful taking the cutting unit out of the box. There’s a plastic guard so you don’t cut fingers as you take the main unit out of the box but it’s not taped down. As I took the unit out, I ended cutting a piece of my shirt. The plastic guard moved and my shirt touched one of the blades.
Excellent video. Turns out my carb float was stuck causing no start. Got it off, cleaned. 30 minutes saved me 80 bucks.
I have had this happen when fuel was left in the tank over the winter. That won't happen again.
QUESTION: At 5:25 you start the explanation of a Choke Plate and the importance of temperature related to a cold engine. This is the way it is with my Cub Cadet mower. The mower recently had the problem of starting up on the first pull easy enough, but then it would shut off after about 20 seconds. The Thermostat measuring part was replaced. After that, the mower would stay on again; however, the engine did seem to randomly be missing beats. The new BIG problem was that the mower takes over 15 pulls to get it to start up cold. In comparison, after having run for a while, the mower starts on the first or second pull. Clearly, the factor of "Temperature" is involved in starting the mower. This mower won't start "cold" easily. The mower actually started on five or six pulls on an 82-degree day. But on a 60-degree day yesterday, it took 15 pulls to get the mower to start. Do you have a suggestion to fix this?
Now THIS is the most helpful video on lawnmower repair I've seen on TH-cam
I'm a DIY'er for life. I fix my cars and motorcycles and everything else I have encountered in life to date, at 62 yrs young I have met my first lawn mower. I went surfing for help with the troubleshooting for this mower that won't remain running after I put some gas into the compression chamber as a troubleshooting step beyond verifying that there was spark to the new plug.
I came across your video. I just wanted to say thank you. this is a great job of adding video for each trouble shooting problem. great job. Thanks again.
My father gave me his old mower, to help me save money (just bought a new home). So I want to give it a good look over. Thanks
One of the best video I’ve seen out there. Too many bad videos out there on troubleshooting your lawnmowers.
Thanks for the feedback. We're glad to hear that you liked our video.
@@searspartsdirectthat’s a robotic ass response haha
This is the best!!! I thought I had to take my lawnmower to a service person BUT through this DIY video I was able to get my lawnmower to start and it runs great. Thank you so much!!!
This is amazing. I almost never comment but this video is perfect. I figured out that the gas I was using got contaminated with water. Flushed /washed the tank and now it's drying.
Thanks!
Thank you sir! Our 725 Series was a gift for Christmas, we never got it to run, and the new mower came without a manual. Your instructions worked......I now know how to field strip it, put it back together, and even start the darned thing......It was the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank.....Much appreciated! As Ever in Christ - John Paranuk Jr.
My mower wouldn’t start after the winter season, I pulled the spark plug and pumped a little fuel in there then put the spark plug back and it ran for about two seconds so I knew it was fuel related. I pulled the top shroud and set it aside removed the fuel tank and drained it to check for sediment or bad fuel, then the carburetor was came right out without any issues and I pulled the bottom bowl off completely.. it was all clean inside. I actuated the float and the needle for a few times and blew through all the different openings to make sure they were unimpeded and then reassembled everything ….it started up on The third pull. Thank you very much for this how to tutorial
Honestly, watched 2:45 of the vid. Cleaned and fully connected spark plugs (loose) and dumped the gas replacing with new gas. 3-4 pulls later, vroom. Thanks for the tips.
Really great video! Clear diagnostic steps, great explanations of the systems, and really fine camera work. I particularly love the links to other helpful videos based on which problems are discovered. Also doesn't hurt that the engine in the video is nearly identical to the Briggs and Stratton in my 21" Husqvarna push mower. I feel so much more confident in my ability to work on my own mower now.
Very clear on explaining the issues and how to check them. Great views of each part.
Thanks for the tips... Got my lawn mower up and running! Thank you!
OMG what a great video. Straight and to point!
You saved me so much money!!!!’ Thank you!!!!
GREAT VIDEO! It proceeds logically and the explanations/ corrective procedures are clear and concise. Thanks for this posting this video!!
I appreciate the great knowledge! Really helped me out. Thank you!
Gonna do this steps tomorrow.. hopefully mine works. Thanks.
Thanks so much appreciate your help. I only used it once so it has to be starter fluid because everything looks clean if not that stabilizer again Thanks for sharing Deb
His name's not Deb
Well explained. I love your videos 👌
We're glad that you liked the video. Thanks for the positive feedback.
after spraying in the starting fluid it started then shut off, so i followed all of the instructions. I took everything apart, cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor based on the linked video. Took the gas tank off, emptied it, cleaned it, let it completely dry. Put back together. Added new gas and a new filter.
It started for 2 secs then shut back off and won’t start again. I don’t know what to do now. I’m so frustrated as it’s only a year old and only used a few times.
FANTASTIC video. Very informative
Thanks for the feedback. We're glad to heat that you liked the video.
Ok, Good vid. My Mower will start, but will not stay running. Fuel line is clean, new fuel, new spark plug. Is there a lever or spring that connect the brake system and throttle system. when I engage the brake release handle to start the mower the throttle behind the air filter box doesn't move.
Very short, simple and direct. Your video is very educative, thanks.
Thanks for the video, I left gas inside my lawnmower for months. However, I'm using a turkey baster to get the old gas out.
It turned out I tried to start the lawnmower wrong. It worked all right until I ran out of gas.LOL
Thank you! Fixed-
Hi, I bought this craftswan 526 series brand new for 8 years now but only run for few times. Now I want to use it. before I startup, what should process I need to do? Please help. Thanks
Good video, the most informative i have seen yet, ty
thanks. very nice instruction
Cheap corn gas was my issue. Had to disassemble the carburetor.🥵
I like how MARSOC's official TH-cam channel favorited a video on how to diagnose problems in a Lawn Mower. Guess even the most Elite of Marines are still prey to the notorious Green Weenie
The recole starter rope is lock it won't let me pull it all the way
Really well done. Thank you.
I have same issue. Will not stay running. New gas new plug. How can I rebuild the carb?
Good information
Procedure for adjusting the intake and exhaust valve clearance would be much appreciated. I have a model 247377000 with a Briggs and Stratton engine just like the one in your video. Are both the intake and exhaust valve clearances adjusted with the cylinder head position at top dead center ? Are both valve clearance specs .005 ?
Although we don't have a video for adjusting valve clearance on that exact type of engine, you should be able to us the procedure shown in this video/illustrated guide for a similar OHV snowblower engine: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/snowblower/how-to-adjust-the-valve-lash-on-a-snowblower.html . The valve clearance specs for both valves is .004 - .008 in at top dead center so .005 will work. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Great video thank you, very helpful.
I have the same mower. Getting good spark. Tried starter fluid and does not try to start. The safety handle is moving lever correctly. What next?
great video
7sed cars , com
Craftsman riding 21 hp mower will not roll over with spark plug in (will with plug out). Checked intake and exhaust valve settings. Done to specifications. Still will not roll over. What suggestions? Thanks!
Check the battery and starter. A weak battery or starter may spin the engine with the spark plug out but not with the plug in. Also, deposits on the piston, cylinder or head can increase the torque needed to spin the engine with the plug in. Clean those components if you find heavy deposits.
George Meiners check your intake valve setting then either one not adjusted just rite it won't roll over at all
Thank you so much for this!
Not exactly related to this video, but I have searched everywhere to no avail. I have viewed at least 20 videos. My 7.25 HP Craftsman mower will not start when hot. Starts easy when cold and runs great but when I stop to empty the bag, it won't restart. I have replaced the gas, air filter, spark plug and carb and it still won't start when hot. If I squirt some gas in the carb when it's hot, it will start and run fine til I have to empty the bag again. When I squirt the gas in the carb, it hisses so it's pretty hot. Any ideas?
Try this. th-cam.com/video/ARJrhnKpTwA/w-d-xo.html
I got a lot of work to do!
Is it possible to be the gas cap. The yellow gasket broke off. It starts but stalls out. I sprayed starter fluid and it ran but then stalled again.
A clogged air vent on the gas cap of some engine models can prevent fuel from reaching the carburetor but a missing gasket likely won’t cause the engine to stall out after starting. Check inside the tank for gasket debris that could be clogging the tank outlet.
What if it was left in the rain and it's only been used once? Where is the best place to start
Check the air filter first. A drenched air filter won’t allow air into the carburetor and engine. If you find the air filter soaked with water, dry it out or replace it. Restoring airflow to the carburetor and engine may fix your starting problem. If that doesn’t help, remove the air filter and spray a small amount of starter fluid into the air intake as shown at 1:28 in the video. If the engine starts and runs briefly using the starter fluid, then you’ve narrowed the cause of your problem to the fuel supply. Replace the fuel in the gas tank with fresh gasoline. You may also need to remove the carburetor and empty the carburetor’s float bowl. Here’s a video that shows how to remove and rebuild the carburetor: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/walk-behind-lawn-mower/how-to-replace-a-mower-recoil-starter-assembly.html. The video shows how to remove the carburetor float bowl at 1:46. Empty the float bowl and reassemble the mower.
Teena Dee look at filter clean and dry
maybe under a tree
Good video. But I would like to see one that includes a common problem: The magnet on the flywheel that produces the spark can slowly lose its power to the point where you cannot pull start it. You can start it by engaging the flywheel nut with an electric drill and get it going fast enough. You could then discard the pull starter, make holes in the start housing and trim cover, and use the drill to start, but this is not very practical. Too bad that most of those magnets are ferrite ceramics rather than Niobium super magnets.
Very good video. It covers repairs "A" to "Z". If , your problem wasn't solved here then perhaps nothing is wrong with your lawnmower 😜👍👌✊
Could a ignition coil over 6.5 Ohms cause the performance of the engine to run poorly? I've checked all the things you mentioned in this video, and from what I can tell, everything's okay. Engine starts but runs as if I have the throttle set on low, but there is no throttle control unless you fool with the governor spring. I can do that, but that isn't a long term fix, there is something else going on. The mower performed well just the day before, now it's puttering.
Because you seem to indicate that the engine runs better when you fool with the governor spring, a bad ignition coil likely isn't causing the engine to sputter. A problem with the governor, governor linkage could be causing the engine to sputter. On some engines, a problem with the choke or choke linkage could also cause the engine to sputter. Let us know the model number of your mower (or the engine model number) and we'll provide additional help if you need it.
@@searspartsdirect - Thanks for replying. Model # is MTD 11A-B25F799 ( 675ex Gold Engine Series). I've run the engine with the air filter off to check the linkage, and they all seem to be working fine. I've read that the ignition coil range should be between 2.5 and 5.0 Ohms. If over that amount, would that affect the performance of the engine?
@@Nick23at63 Thanks for providing that model number. According to the parts listing, that mower should have Briggs & Stratton engine model 126M02-0345-F1. Briggs & Stratton recommends testing for spark using a spark plug tester rather than measuring the resistance through the ignition coil. Your specification of 2.5K to 5K ohms for coil resistance is likely valid. Measuring 6.5K ohms through the ignition coil is not too far out of that specification. There's a chance that the ignition coil is bad and it's causing the engine to sputter. Before you consider replacing the ignition coil, try to let the engine warm up even though it's sputtering and see if the engine runs smoothly when it gets hot. If the engine runs smoothly when hot, then the ignition coil is likely okay. If the engine sputters even when it's hot, then replacing the ignition coil may fix the problem.
Please explain the phenomena of double grounded spark plugs. Outside of cylinder I have spark. Inside has no spark. I'm still studying this issue, thanks
The spark may be jumping to ground outside the cylinder but not jumping to the center electrode when you have the plug inside the cylinder. If you use a spark plug tester as shown at 2:12 in the video and don’t see the tester spark, you may need to replace the spark plug.
Jaster94 20
6
chevytra
..
at 2:42 it looks like he's talking into a microphone, lol... Anyways, good job thanks!
i cant find parts
terrific video. thank you
If you suspect bad gas... take your carburetor off and make sure all the fuel is out. I've done all the other stuff... but it start until I got bad fuel out of carburetor.
What if you have all three and still wont start.
Thanks so much
Hi I left gas in my mower over the winter, now it won't start. I replaced new gas, and the mower would only start after I tilt it to the right. Then it would stall within a few seconds. I repeated the process over about 10 tens and it still does the same. Can you please provide some pointers? My mower is craftman, looks the same as yours, could be the same one. It's a 6.75 engine. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Add some Seafoam to the new gas
Based on your description of the problem, the carburetor is probably clogged. Replacing the carburetor is the easiest fix because the carburetor for this type of engine is relatively inexpensive. Rebuilding the carburetor may also fix your problem but that repair is more difficult and doesn’t cost that much less than replacing the entire carburetor. To find the correct carburetor or carburetor rebuild kit, you’ll need the engine model number. Look up the engine model number in your owner’s manual or on the Sears PartsDirect parts list for your lawn mower model number. The engine model number for a 6.75 engine will probably look something like this: 126M02-1031-F1. Order the correct part and replace or rebuild that carburetor and the engine will likely run properly. Let us know if you need more help.
Don't listen to this guy, he just wants you to buy a carburetor from him.
+Sears PartsDirect you
+twitch Moto , but he's right. The cost difference is minimal.
4:05
I have a lawn tractor that wont start. I need help.
I replaced the spark plug, oil, oil filter, carburator, fuel pump, fuel filter, and the air filter
Many lawn tractors have interlock switches such as a seat switch that will prevent the engine from starting. Check your owner’s manual for a wiring diagram of the electrical system and reconnect any loose wires that you find on interlock switches or other electrical components. Replace any defective switches or components. If you need more help, let us know the model number of your lawn tractor and we’ll assist you further.
Has it been sitting with gas in it? Drain the gas and put fresh gas in it and some Seafoam.
+Sears PartsDirect well, I have the same problem. but mines a Yard machines by MTD
+twitch Moto Seas foam? Where do I get that?
Maxx Haffe Zero Auto Zone or another Auto place
What would be the problem if you spray the start fluid in the carburetor and the lawn motor runs but if the motor is stopped, it will not restart
Your details sound like you've narrowed the problem down to a fuel supply issue. Stale gasoline in the fuel tank and carburetor bowl can prevent the engine from starting. If the gasoline in the tank and carburetor is older than 6 months, move the mower to a well ventilated area and drain the fuel tank. You may need to drain the fuel out of the carburetor float bowl too. Refill the fuel tank with fresh gasoline. If the mower still won't start, you may need to rebuild or replace the carburetor. Here's a repair guide/video that shows how to rebuild a carburetor on a typical Briggs & Stratton engine: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-rebuild-a-lawn-mower-carburetor . We hope this information helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
@@searspartsdirect Thank you for the timely response.
I have oil coming out of the carborator. What dose that mean?
Tilting the mower forward or to the carburetor side is a common cause of oil coming out of the carburetor. If you tilted the mower forward or to the side with the carburetor facing downward, then the cylinder may also have filled with oil. Remove the spark plug and pull the starter rope several times. The piston will force the oil out of the cylinder through the spark plug hole. You can then reinstall the spark plug and start the engine. The engine will spew some black smoke out for a while until it burns off the residual oil in the cylinder then the mower should run smoothly. Overfilling the engine with oil can cause oil come out the carburetor or the breather tube which is next to the carburetor. The oil will typically soak the air filter so you may not be able to tell whether the oil came out of the carburetor or the breather tube. Sometimes it comes out both. Check your oil level and drain out some oil if you overfilled the engine with oil. Serious engine problems such as a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder or worn piston rings can cause oil to come out of the carburetor and/or breather tube. You’ll typically have to tear down the engine to find these types of problems. You can also have a service technician repair the engine if you suspect that it has this type of serious internal failure.
3:20 at this point, if you got a warranty...cool. if not. Go buy a new mower, and blame the president you don't like. 😂
Damn thanks 💯
thank you
i have this same mower
I have a 917258550 riding lawn mower. This belonged to a previous owner. I am trying to get it going. I can't get a spark from the spark plug. I have placed my thumb on the spark plug hole and turned it over. It pushed my thumb away! So I do have compression. How Much exactly - I do not know yet! I know it should be between 60 to 100 for this mower. I will get a guage eventually and check it.
No matter this brings me to the spark plug spark. I have replaced the spark plug and ignition coil. I gapped it to .011. I have unhooked the kill/grounding wire from the back of the ignition coil and still no spark!!!!!!!! What would be next to check????????????????? My best guess is to get a new flywheel for the magnets. Does the magnets on the flywheel have anything to do w/ the spark plug spark???
The magnets help the ignition coil generate the spark as they pass by the coil. The flywheel magnets don’t wear out. You may have an interlock switch in the ignition circuit that is grounding ignition coil. We recommend that you check the operation of the seat switch and blade interlock switch. Replace any switch that doesn’t work. Repair or replace any broken wires that connect to the switches.
I am going to need to rewire the lawn mower according to the wire diagram, but in the mean time I thought that unhooking the "kill/grounding" wire from the back of the ignition coil would let it produce spark from the plug?? Thanks for the info on the flywheel because I almost ordered one but decided to wait for YOUR opinion!!
Virgil White
Thanks.
I replaced my carb engine looks like it's not sucking in fuel
Check the fuel line and fuel filter for clogs. The mower may have a restriction or clog in the fuel path between the tank and the carburetor. Also, check the vent holes in the fuel cap for clogs. The engine won’t get fuel if those vent holes get clogged. If you need more help, post additional details and we’ll try to assist you further.
I have the same issue , I replaced the carb and all gaskets and it won't prime or run. I replaced the primer bulb, fuel , spark plug and air filter. Any help ? Did you get yours running?
sure I did.my mower is 6.0 craftsman no choke plate .engine sucks gas by compression of the cylinders moving up and down. carburetor can not send fuel to engine by itself .gas get sucked from engine so I checked the compression first connecting a gauge into the spark plug .it was fair for 14 yr old mower .what made it work was there is a metal pipe right after carburetor to the engine I sealed that up with gasket maker rtv cos gasket was worn it run for the first time after long tries.so maybe it was sucking air instead of fuel.let us know what works for u.if the engine does not provide suction .it might be a bad engine this sucker has everything like a car does.thanks sears for video
God bless America
use premium fuel in small engine , for some reason it works better and does not gum up in a carburetor after long storage ,
second if you have a fuel valve turn it off while the engine is running and wait until the fuel dries out from the carburetor ,
Fuel left in the carburetor for a long time will dry up and damage the carburetor , installing a fuel shut off valve is easy ,
If engine is hard to start remove the spark plug and use a propane torch burn off the Corbin residue and whatever might be on the spark plug , I do it until the Central Electric and the ground electroid get red hot , of course wait until the spark plug cool down before reinstalling it , in the Old Country Palestine we used to put a small amount of gasoline on the ground put the spark plug in the middle of it and set it on fire , that always worked to get us out of a jam ,
Nidal Shehadeh
Nidal Shehadeh
Pl
Sophal Rus mj
Nidal Shehadeh qeddc
Nidal Shehadeh Of and u.
cool
You should never us starter fluid or ether to try and start the engine, using this fluid can blow your engine apart and you will get hurt bad if it does. Instead use a little gas in a spray bottle and squirt some into the carb and try and start the engine that way.
Paul Brown Ty
Why do a compression test on a engine that's got a centrifugal decompressor in it?? It will give a total false reading you could never pull it over fast enough to give you a good reading a leakage test is the best way
The compression test often indicates whether you have a compression problem. You are correct that a compression leak down test as described in the engine’s shop manual is the best way to diagnose and repair a compression problem. We didn’t cover that procedure in this video because it’s an advanced engine test that requires special tools and expertise. We continually add more DIY videos so we may cover the compression leak down test in future engine troubleshooting videos.
How to repair Honda lawn mower piston
How to repair Honda lawn mower piston
The carburetor rebuild kit is $18 and a new carb is $24. Why wouldn't you just get a new carb?
Good point. It is a lot easier.
Open flame n sparks? Until we turn it over to test for spark...lol
Where's the "Click here" part? There's nothing to click on and that's the part I need.
3:32 I think
7
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻
this video does not adress the fact that all these three things need to happen at the right TIME. also, "right amount of compression to drive the piston." this is parcially incorrect. though these three things work together to drive the piston, it is not the job of compression. the job of compression is to compress the fuel/air mixture to the point where it is combustible. I'm surprised that sears got this wrong
Oooopp
Nisi I
Just purchased the Sears M110 - cc 21 inch gas push mower. I did all the pre adjustments, added oil, gasoline and the pull rope is seized as it only stretches out about 5 inches and won't pull out any more. I also noticed the blade strikes underneath the mower deck. I thought Sears and Briggs and Stratton were good manufacturers but I was wrong. This mower does not start right out of the box. Very disappointing. DO NOT recommend
If the blade hits the handle that protrudes through the deck, pull the handle up and install the mounting bolts to hold the handle properly in place. That may fix the problem that you're describing.
@@searspartsdirect The blade hits underneath the mower deck as it turns and the pull rope does not come out more than 5 inches. very tough to pull
Yy
Fiskars StaySharp Max Reel Mower th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend This is what all push mowers should strive for. It was easy to push. It cut the lawn. The blades are sharp, very sharp. The one minus that everyone should be aware of is you need to be very careful taking the cutting unit out of the box. There’s a plastic guard so you don’t cut fingers as you take the main unit out of the box but it’s not taped down. As I took the unit out, I ended cutting a piece of my shirt. The plastic guard moved and my shirt touched one of the blades.
¹¹1⅕