@@Fixthisbuildthat no plaster but it's very bumpy textured walls with small tips. I hate the stuff bc using the typical stud finders are iffy bc they can't sit completely flat on sheet rock.
Just a friendly suggestion. If you are in an area that has freezing outdoor temperatures, and you use this for heating, you will want to put the outdoor unit on a stand. What will happen is the outdoor unit will go into defrost to melt the frost (ice) that accumulates on the outdoor coil. This is done automatically. As the frost melts a build-up of water will turn to ice during freezing temps. When this happens, eventually the ice builds up in the outdoor unit and the coil gets damaged from the constant freezing and thawing. Having the outdoor unit up high will allow the water to drain far enough away from the coil before the water freezes.
I've been looking into the mini-split systems and had a local HVAC business come out and quote me a new system. He discouraged mini-splits because he said they were much more expensive than a traditional heat pump which he quoted me $10,000.00 for a 1150 square foot home. Thats two HVAC folks that gave me crazy priced systems that I can buy online for half that. Not going to pay two guys $5 grand for one days work. I'll go DIY like you.
True but I would do lot of research on mini-splits and learn why HVAC guys charge so much. They generally only install couple of good brands like Mitsubishi, or Daikin. They run their one line sets either do RLS press to flare, or they do their own flares. Most HVAC guys think those quick disconnects MR Cool has are garbage because they eventually leak. They show up at a customers house asking to fix it they refuse because they know cutting the ends off voids the warranty. Also should use nitrogen to pressure test it lot of times under vacuum won't have a leak, but when you pressure it up to 200-300 lbs spray bubble mixture on the flares you will have leaks. The nitrogen bottle and regulator cost 500-700 sometimes you can find used ones cheaper. This is why DIY can end up costing lot more after you install it and later find all the refrigerant leaked out. I have had good luck with Nylog flare sealer, and those rubber seals go in the flare joint itself. I'm surprised you could not find someone who would install a mini-split.
He lied to you so you would buy their system. He doesn’t make as much money on product and continued service if he installs a mini split. I used to be in home improvement sales (bathroom remodeling) and a lot of what you’re told is a lie or half-truth to get you signed up.
I have to give props where props are due, this video literally saved me a fat stack of benjamins. I installed my own precharged mini-split thinking I needed to do nothing else but unfortunately it wasn't cooling and I was in the middle of scheduling a technician to come out to diagnose and fix whatever was wrong but after watching this video I realized all I needed to do was open the refrigerant lines. Insta cold air, thank you thank you thank you 💪🏻💪🏻
i had a Mitsubishi unit installed in my 2-car garage last summer...absolute game changer. easily maintains the same temperature as my house no matter the temp outside.
Installed a Klimaire minisplit in my garage. Going good for 2 years now. It was cheaper too than other brands. I wanted to cut my lines to size so I bought a vacuum pump, gauges, and line tools off Amazon. First time ever installing one. Just watched videos and took it a step at a time. Note you can for about $300 bucks and a test, get licensed yourself to buy refrigerant.
I installed a 30,000 mrcool split in my sons shed, two years ago, was easy to install with no extra tools, works great, Installed a pioner in my house about 10 months ago, it has already crapped out
The filters on a mini split are notorious for getting clogged pretty fast in a wood shop. No matter how good your dust collection system is, you should probably clean/ replace your filter monthly depending on the amount of time you spend making sawdust. If there is a way to figure out a prefilter, that would be best but that's hard with a mini split. Great video. Doing it yourself is pretty awesome and definitely does give me a great feeling.
in my experience with the old one, the filters were never the issue. they are really filters in name only, lol. it was the build up on the blower spindle fan that was horrible and I never even knew it
I installed a Fujitsu 2 zone some months ago. The unit is pre-charged with all the coolant you need, but I had to borrow a vacuum pump and gauge set to vacuum the lines before releasing the coolant. I planned to cut the line sets and flare the ends, but got nervous and simply located everything to work with 25' and 35' line sets. In that case, I could have gone the Mr. Cool route.
Bought me a Mirage Life 12, 1 ton installed for only $560, cools living room dining room and kitchen. Very quiet and stays cool all day long. people here buying Mr. Cool for an arm and and leg not here. 2 ton only $1200 and a little more for a 3 ton but that is way too big.
These things are great and have given me a solution in 3 scenarios so far, saving me $$$$$. One downside I’ve ran into, and this is location specific, but there is a ton of dust. I guess it’s just a less robust filtration system, but I’ll sweep clean the room it conditions once every other week. No busy road near by and unit backs up to wooded area. Also, my drain valve clogged up with dirt and dust and cause the internal pan to overflow causing a small waterfall in the bedroom. This is a common problem typically remediated by taking a shop vac to the drain pipe. Still, it can cause damage if unnoticed.
What is going on with your house? Where is all that dust coming from? I used to maintain a couple of mini-splits in a previous job, and I never had problems with the filters or drains. You really, really need to get to the bottom of this problem.
You guys are lucky in the US with all the DIY projects you can do. In Australia, if you do similar work yourself it would void your home insurance as work needs to be done by qualified tradies not to confuse with professionals :) have a good one!
I was going to suggset this too :). I clean my little screen filters about every 2 months... but want to build a big air box like Jay and someone else did...
The problem with these DIY systems is long term serviceability. Not one contractor out of dozens in my local area will service or repair DIY hvac systems. Arguably you could just install another one considering the price point, but it's something to consider nonetheless.
@@williamellis8993 Yep, me too. Not to mention the Daikin I had installed has a twelve year warranty. I spend enough time out of town and away from home that I didn't want to leave my wife with a headache incase anything goes wrong with the HVAC system at the house. Now we can be rest assured that help is a phone call away if anything breaks down.
@@Fixthisbuildthat hard to find a "side jobber" with the proper hvac equipment to service them. Thankfully, I'm friendly with my two local hvac companies and have hired them for other work They don't like servicing it, but they will. I've never seen an industry so hell bent on brand loyalty as HVAC. They'll all absolutely trash talk any brand they don't directly sell.
@@Fixthisbuildthat For sure. I'm not saying don't do it. Heck, I'll probably install a DIY unit in my detached garage this year. But if that unit goes out it's simply an inconvenience not an emergency where my family is going to freeze. I only want to caution those considering going the DIY route to think about downsides and if the application is appropriate.
Nice DIY video of how to install. I just ordered a MRCOOL for my garage from Costco and I heard adding an HVAC surge protector at the disconnect may be a good idea to protect the condensing unit. I chose MRCOOL because I get the warranty as a DIYer.
Please keep in mind when looking at the price of things like capacitors from an AC company, you're not paying for just the capacitor. You are paying for the part, the shipping of the part to our shop, the wages of the shop crew to stock it, the gas/maintenance of my work vehicle, gas money, and my wages and labor to install it. Not to mention, my knowledge to know that it needs replaced at all. Now, that being said, depending on company and location, a capacitor shouldn't cost more then maybe $200 total if that's all that's wrong, and I am ALL for people learning to do basic DIY for themselves. Just something to keep in mind from the perspective of someone who works in the industry.
My AC guy that installed me a new whole house HVAC unit..well my bdrm gets really hot in the summer now. he said it is my ducting in the attic. its old stuff they don't use anymore..like the big connecting box in the attic. house built in 2004. I had zero problems before new install..BUT my old unit ran R22...now i have the R410 i think is what it is. he also recommended adding a mini split. i know i cant afford that by a pro..sooo before i get too old..i need to learn to do this..orr pay AC man to replace all my duct work in the attic. just HOW HARD is it to do this? I can do a little plumbing, a little electrical although not alot. know NOTHING about AC units. what do you suggest?
Nice Video. And Yes, I came here to see how to replace the old line set with the DYI line set. Just Iffy about this step rest is doable. I have little idea now about the challenges that I will go through.
I really liked this one. My garage/shop needs a mini-split in the worst way. The uninsulated garage door gets full afternoon sun. Summer's are murder. I'm just nervous about getting on a ladder at my age. The condenser would sit in direct sun on the south side of the house. Is that an issue?
I installed a Mr cool unit about a year ago. I did have a filler valve that leaked from a factory defect. Local hvac repairman fixed leak and refilled refrigerant. Mr cool offered to ship out the new part. But I had the repairman just replace the little valve.
Please do a video of restoring a wall that was mural painted. I primed and painted, but the edges and brush marks are telegraphing through. Is my only option to retexture (orange peal) the wall?
Just another valuable thing to learn I’m a welder. I’m a machinist, a pilot. I’m a homeowner. I’m an investor , I’m a truck driver , I build carports. I am a mason , bring it on.
Mind blown... when I installed mine it never occurred to me I could have installed the lineset mostly inside the garage... in hindsight wish I has for one of the air handlers (3 zone system with 2 into a garage/shop and 1 into a detached shed office). FYI, smart phone control is super nice to be able to turn everything on an hour before I head to my shop. It does have a couple annoying things, like you can't schedule it to go into FP (Freeze Protection) mode which is the same as setting the heat to 45F. Lowest you can normally set in regular heat mode is 62F. And can't do things like "always turn off after 4 hours". I just schedule mind to go off at 4pm and midnight in case I ever forget. Overall, 3 years later, still super happy with the whole thing though!
gotta tell yeah, it was a huge extra pain doing it that way though, lol. That dang water heater really made it tough. I'm going to try and hook it up to Home Assistant and do scheduling that way if needed
@@Fixthisbuildthat LMAO... of course you use HA. Anyway, installing linesets into covers is always a PITA, I sure extra PITA behind the water heater. One thing to be sure of is you have good slope to your condensate line and that wherever it exits it won't freeze and get plug. I use mine as much for heating as cooling, imagine you will too.
If this type of unit is installed in a house that has central ac now, does this unit use the existing vents to each room? I think there has to be a interior blower in each room. Also, how does this unit control humidity? Is it the same as central air.
This should be renamed - Replacing an existing minisplit......you don't have to deal with a lot I would.....no pad, no electrical, etc. Not meant as a diss, its still a good video
fair, but I would have had the electrical disconnect done professionally anyway and the pad is literal buy and drop in place. So it's really just the hole through the wall. And if you don't have brick that's a breeze
get a loaner vacuum pump and gauges from the autoparts store. You will probably need a 1/4 to 5/16 adapter to hook up to the access port. Please pull a vacuum and check for drop, you are leaving air in the system.
Completely agree. I paid up to get the Mitsu when I bought it, thinking it was the best in market....apparently it wasn't. The exact failure was a leak in the evaporator coil caused by corrosion. There was no coating on the fins or tube brackets to prevent rust
Not worth it unless you pay someone to install it that’s licensed and bonded but I just got quoted 26k for an 18000btu unit that was literally directly on the other side of the electric box. Unreal
I had one installed by a Mitsubishi “authorized installer” listed on the Mitsubishi web site and the thing NEVER worked. Big run around from Mitsubishi. Never again.
Just an FYI: You are not allowed to use regular Romex in an outside location. Any conduit outside is considered a wet location, even inside the conduit due to condensation.
Great video a few questions I'm no AC expert but why did your first mini split break on you after only 6 years I have a traditional window air conditioner that I've abused for last 9 and it's still running perfectly fine, I've been wanting to get a mini split because it's quieter than a traditional window air conditioner . Also shouldn't you hang up the air handler at a slight angle to allow gravity to pull out the condensation if you can let me know at your convenience thanks .
Great video, really useful instructions. Question. Does the refrigerant tubing come with the unit? If you needed to cut the piping, is it easy to cut, attach connections, what happens to the refrigerant if the tubing is pre-pressurized?. Cheers
The systems comes pre-charged and sealed. The line set comes with your system. No, you cannot cut the lines to size; you must use them as-is and stow any excess neatly.
Mr Cool might be different than others but generally the line set has a vacuum pulled on it (the woosh sound you hear when connecting) and the refrigerant is in the outside unit. Checking for leaks under a vacuum risks pulling leak detector into the line set. I normally hook up all my lines pull the vacuum to the micron level and make sure it holds. I follow this with a nitrogen charge and at that point I look for leaks at all of my connections. I then pull a vacuum again and open the system up. Again, Mr. cool might be different, but it doesn’t make sense.
Mr Cool units are 2x the price of other DIY models. Their lineset can't be cut so you're going to coil the extra unless you're lucky on the length. All you need is $150 in tools. Check other brands to save over $1100 over the unit that was installed. Same warranty.
But, do the others warranty the unit if you do the DIY? All the ones I have researched require a certified tech to do installation for the warranty and local techs will not touch them because you didn't buy their systems.
My question is about dust. I have a wood shop and despite my efforts things get dusty when I’m working. Are you compensating for the dust in the air with additional filtering or just relying on the internal filter. I’ve seen other DIYers who build additional filtering. It’s one of the reasons I’ve hesitated installing a mini-split.
If you need the copper pipes to come out from the right side of the ac indoor unit is it possible to bend them to the right? I'm just afraid they will crack or kink since have to bend them 180degrees. Any suggestions?
Is it true that the heat setting will only go down to 62? The description on Amazon says it goes down to 32. I was hoping to install one in my shop and turn the heat down low in the winter to keep it just above freezing.
Isn't the whole system pre-charged with refrigerant, lines and unit? If so, when you attach the lines and open the valves between them nothing flows across. The two sides just mix.
Your DIY origin story hits home. Predatory contracting is rampant, makes it more difficult for everyone, and makes the world a worse place. We need more honesty in business and the world.
Three things: 1. Straighten out the most of the line set before inserting it into the wall (it’ll make it much easier) 2. I wish there was an option to completely replace the condensation line with PVC. The corrugated tubing will trap water and get moldy. 3. Make sure there’s a pitch away for the drain
Sorry, that is not true. The lines are pre-charged, not the indoor or outdoor units. Excerpt straight from the patent #US-11747025-B2 page 36. Verbatim, no parenthesis added by me. 😀 Female quick-connect connectors are disposed at either end of the pre-charged line-set, in communication with the conduit piping, and are equpped with a variety of features specifically designed for the containment of refrigerant within the pre-charged line-set and the calculated release of the refrigerant into (and only into) the indoor and outdoor units of the HVAC system via mating male quick-connect connectors disposed on the units themselves.
There is no refrigerant in the line set . How would one keep in the charge when connecting the lines to the evap and condenser? Impossible!.. the condenser is where it hold the charge . After u connect the lines you evacuate the lines as well as the evap once u have a good vacuum u open the valves on the condenser and they then get released within the lines as well as the evap . If u need to change out the evap or do a repair in which u need to disconnect the lines u turn on the unit on cool close the valve on the liquid line once that is done the pressure should drop on the suction line and with your gauges once the psi drops close to 1 psi you close the suction line valve and all your refrigerant is stored in the condenser
@Fixthisbuildthat - If you have a partially finished garage and you want buy the appropriate sized Mr Cool unit, how do you calculate the sq footage with an open ceiling to the A-frame roof?
great question and honestly I don't know. But I'd imagine in the winter is where you'll have the issue. Summer time the upper area shouldn't matter as cool air is heavier. And potentially adding a fan above the rafters could push that warm air down in the winter
Fantastic work, Brad! Really well done! 😃 Yeah, I'm going to need to install one pretty soon at my shop as well. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi. Great Video. I have a small 1.5 car garage (~400 sq ft) I'd love to cool. Can you recommend a unit that is super-easy to install that runs on a 110 v AC outlet (instead of being hard-wired)? My budget is $1500.00 but I'd love to be closer to $1000.00 or less.
Consider a roll-away type air conditioner. There are many on the market. My brother-in-law has a 14,000 Btu/hr LG, and is very happy with it. You connect to the outdoors with hoses. They ARE noisy, though.
I just had a guy quote me 18k to replace my existing Fujitsu mini split with a Fujitsu mini split. That's reusing all the lines so just swapping the old system for new already wired for 240 HVAC guys are crazy the system cost just under 6k so that's 12k in labor for one days work he said it would take to do. Mine works just 20 years old stopped working so I charged it up un scientifically and it's working pretty good. Just thought I'd upgrade but now I'm thinking I'll wait and see how long this charge holds it only cost 130 bucks for the 410a that's a lot less than 18k where I come from.
How could you pressure test your inside without hooking up to the heat pump and opening the valves. There is no pressure in the lines until that point.
Hey Brad, great install. BTW, the outdoor unit (compressor) is pre-gassed with refrigerant. The lines are usually empty. The indoor unit is filled with Nitrogen gas to keep it clean and prevent oxidization. That is the noise you heard when removing the plugs from the indoor unit.
Having installed a few of these, the condensing unit (outside unit) has 99% of the refrigerant in it, the evaporator unit/ fan coil (inside unit) and line set have a holding charge. This is how you avoid pulling a vacuum on the system. Once you tighten down the connections you pierce the line set seals and it's ready to go
This is a common but inaccurate statement as I clarified in the video. But don't take my word for it. Here is the direct wording from Mr. Cool's patent #US-11125479-B1 😀 Apparatuses, systems, and methods for providing non-expert installation of HVAC systems are provided. The HVAC system includes an indoor unit, an outdoor unit, a first pre-charged refrigerant line-set, a second pre-charged refrigerant line-set, and a line-set coupler, each containing pre- pressurized refrigerant securely positioned therein prior to engagement between two or more of the aforementioned elements. The first pre-charged refrigerant line-set is couplable between an indoor unit refrigerant port of the indoor unit and a first coupler end of the line-set coupler. The second pre-charged refrigerant line-set is couplable between an outdoor unit refrigerant pot of the outdoor unit and a second coupler end of the line-set coupler.
You missed a critical point: What type of freon does the system use? Make sure it something like R410A that can be purchased locally incase there's a leak. Most likely these, Made in China, units WILL develop a leak ;)
Yes, all MrCool DIY systems use R410A. But......sourcing refrigerant is just the start. You still need to pump down the system and there IS skill required. In my limited experience, Chinese products are no more prone to developing leaks than other makes. Don't forget, Midea and Gree are the world's biggest, most successful HVAC and appliance manufacturers on the planet. They're somewhat new to us, here in the West, but common around the world.
my concern, with my luck, would be to run into a burr connecting the lines, vent all the refrigerant to the atmosphere, lose the vacuum, the thing is essentially scrap because those connectors are proprietary, and i just gotta get a new one... i see it as a gamble because of the installation, but it's still nice to know it exists because of the price point...
It's a great business model. Make a good product that is easy to install and will save you a ton a money and put it in the hands of people who can share it. Win-win-win
@@Fixthisbuildthat Except that having a marketing budget that is much higher than your engineering budget isn't really conducive to making a good product.
That's all well and good, but I spent half as much on a unit and when I kinked one of the hard lines all I had to do was cut the kinked portion out, flare it, and use a flare union fitting. That mistake would have cost me like two or three hundred with one of these "DIY" systems to replace the kinked line. My unit with the tools required to install was still way cheaper, and now I can install another normal unit at my leisure in the house with the tools I now have in my possession.
now to just find one that is available in Canada that is also precharged. The ones I'm finding all require flaring the tubes and using a vacuum to get the air out. @@Fixthisbuildthat
I noticed you uninstalled the Mitsubishi unit. Was replacing parts on that a less viable option? My impression was that those were one of the more reputable brands that last.
Capacitor story: My GE washer stopped spinning with heavy loads. I traced the issue to the capacitor, which I priced at $250 from GE parts. I found the same spec capacitor at Princess Auto(Canada's Harbour Freight) for $30!!
Learning to use a vacuum pump and about the compressor/evaporator/condenser seems like something anyone could do if they are already capable of all this. I really like your HVAC guy story tho
yes, it's not so much pulling the vacuum or reading pressures that is hard. It's actually sizing, cutting, and flaring the tubing for good, solid and clean joints that seems to be the difficult part and most common place for failure from what I read.
That's actually the one thing I don't like about Mr Cool: All the extra length in the line set. You can coil it up or whatever, but it's still there, and still ugly. I need about 8' for mine, and the minimum is 10', but at least I don't have an extra 13' of line on it. Flaring the joints and pulling the vacuum is pretty easy, IMHO.
Personally I hate smart devices that need the cloud. If you're the same, I swapped a Midea SLWF-01pro ESPHome module into mine and I use it with my home assistant entirely locally. Mr. Cool is manufactured by Midea, so this dongle will function the same.
hey Keith! 2 things. 1. it wouldn't distribute air through my shop as well (pointed across the short distance vs long distance of my shop). 2. The hot water heater vent piping is in the way
Looks like a nice unit Brad. I was wondering if the company would still honor the warrantee on a self installed unit? Also, haven't seen any videos on your house in the woods? Are you still working on that house? Just curious. Thanks! 👍👍
hey, Steve. They definitely honor the warranty on the DIY kit. It's specifically made for weekend warriors to install. And there will be more vids on the new property soon. Been a slow start to the year
Love the Kreg Stud Finder with Laser? Get one here - amzn.to/42y6SJU (affiliate link)
will it work on/with textured walls from the 60s?
@@keithf5236 if your drywall is held in place by ferrous nails or screws it will work. won't work on plaster
@@Fixthisbuildthat no plaster but it's very bumpy textured walls with small tips. I hate the stuff bc using the typical stud finders are iffy bc they can't sit completely flat on sheet rock.
Just a friendly suggestion. If you are in an area that has freezing outdoor temperatures, and you use this for heating, you will want to put the outdoor unit on a stand. What will happen is the outdoor unit will go into defrost to melt the frost (ice) that accumulates on the outdoor coil. This is done automatically. As the frost melts a build-up of water will turn to ice during freezing temps. When this happens, eventually the ice builds up in the outdoor unit and the coil gets damaged from the constant freezing and thawing. Having the outdoor unit up high will allow the water to drain far enough away from the coil before the water freezes.
Really helpful to know, thank you. I live in WI where it gets sooooo cold in winter.
I've been looking into the mini-split systems and had a local HVAC business come out and quote me a new system. He discouraged mini-splits because he said they were much more expensive than a traditional heat pump which he quoted me $10,000.00 for a 1150 square foot home. Thats two HVAC folks that gave me crazy priced systems that I can buy online for half that. Not going to pay two guys $5 grand for one days work. I'll go DIY like you.
Check international prices , the 12k system in the US costs over 1.7k dollars while overseas costs only 250 dollars, what's the deal?
True but I would do lot of research on mini-splits and learn why HVAC guys charge so much. They generally only install couple of good brands like Mitsubishi, or Daikin. They run their one line sets either do RLS press to flare, or they do their own flares. Most HVAC guys think those quick disconnects MR Cool has are garbage because they eventually leak. They show up at a customers house asking to fix it they refuse because they know cutting the ends off voids the warranty. Also should use nitrogen to pressure test it lot of times under vacuum won't have a leak, but when you pressure it up to 200-300 lbs spray bubble mixture on the flares you will have leaks. The nitrogen bottle and regulator cost 500-700 sometimes you can find used ones cheaper. This is why DIY can end up costing lot more after you install it and later find all the refrigerant leaked out. I have had good luck with Nylog flare sealer, and those rubber seals go in the flare joint itself. I'm surprised you could not find someone who would install a mini-split.
He lied to you so you would buy their system. He doesn’t make as much money on product and continued service if he installs a mini split. I used to be in home improvement sales (bathroom remodeling) and a lot of what you’re told is a lie or half-truth to get you signed up.
Hahahahah ugh good luck
I have to give props where props are due, this video literally saved me a fat stack of benjamins. I installed my own precharged mini-split thinking I needed to do nothing else but unfortunately it wasn't cooling and I was in the middle of scheduling a technician to come out to diagnose and fix whatever was wrong but after watching this video I realized all I needed to do was open the refrigerant lines. Insta cold air, thank you thank you thank you 💪🏻💪🏻
Your start is exactly why I do my own repairs and woodworking. Labor rates have sky rocketed and quality has not kept up.
i had a Mitsubishi unit installed in my 2-car garage last summer...absolute game changer. easily maintains the same temperature as my house no matter the temp outside.
That is why I like DIY and that is why I want to do more DIY and film it.
Installed a Klimaire minisplit in my garage. Going good for 2 years now. It was cheaper too than other brands. I wanted to cut my lines to size so I bought a vacuum pump, gauges, and line tools off Amazon. First time ever installing one. Just watched videos and took it a step at a time. Note you can for about $300 bucks and a test, get licensed yourself to buy refrigerant.
You educated yourself. TH-cam anything in the world and learn.
Well done Brad. Thanks to the wifey for the assist!
I am looking at putting one of these in my shop. Thanks for the info!
Glad to help!
The kreg stud finder might be my favorite part of the video
didn't think I'd use the laser, but it was perfect for this exact situation. amzn.to/42y6SJU
I installed a 30,000 mrcool split in my sons shed, two years ago, was easy to install with no extra tools, works great,
Installed a pioner in my house about 10 months ago, it has already crapped out
The filters on a mini split are notorious for getting clogged pretty fast in a wood shop. No matter how good your dust collection system is, you should probably clean/ replace your filter monthly depending on the amount of time you spend making sawdust. If there is a way to figure out a prefilter, that would be best but that's hard with a mini split.
Great video. Doing it yourself is pretty awesome and definitely does give me a great feeling.
in my experience with the old one, the filters were never the issue. they are really filters in name only, lol. it was the build up on the blower spindle fan that was horrible and I never even knew it
There are a couple of youtube videos out there addressing this issue. One channel that comes to mind is A Glimpse Inside.
08:56 I think this has just saved me about 3 hours work! Nothing in my manual about moving the drain to the other side but it worked.
I installed a Fujitsu 2 zone some months ago. The unit is pre-charged with all the coolant you need, but I had to borrow a vacuum pump and gauge set to vacuum the lines before releasing the coolant. I planned to cut the line sets and flare the ends, but got nervous and simply located everything to work with 25' and 35' line sets. In that case, I could have gone the Mr. Cool route.
I just bought this a couple days ago. Perfect timing.
One of the best install videos I have seen, I like you installed in a different way from every other video I have seen
Yes that was super helpful. I am looking to do same way as you did. Will take the lines straight outside as you noted
Bought me a Mirage Life 12, 1 ton installed for only $560, cools living room dining room and kitchen. Very quiet and stays cool all day long. people here buying Mr. Cool for an arm and and leg not here. 2 ton only $1200 and a little more for a 3 ton but that is way too big.
These things are great and have given me a solution in 3 scenarios so far, saving me $$$$$.
One downside I’ve ran into, and this is location specific, but there is a ton of dust. I guess it’s just a less robust filtration system, but I’ll sweep clean the room it conditions once every other week. No busy road near by and unit backs up to wooded area.
Also, my drain valve clogged up with dirt and dust and cause the internal pan to overflow causing a small waterfall in the bedroom. This is a common problem typically remediated by taking a shop vac to the drain pipe. Still, it can cause damage if unnoticed.
What is going on with your house? Where is all that dust coming from? I used to maintain a couple of mini-splits in a previous job, and I never had problems with the filters or drains. You really, really need to get to the bottom of this problem.
You guys are lucky in the US with all the DIY projects you can do. In Australia, if you do similar work yourself it would void your home insurance as work needs to be done by qualified tradies not to confuse with professionals :) have a good one!
Poor aussies. You guys truly have no real freedoms..
Yea... You might build a filtered intake for that if you have dust in there. Jay Bates has a good one for that.
yes, definitely considering that based on the condition of my old one
I was going to suggset this too :). I clean my little screen filters about every 2 months... but want to build a big air box like Jay and someone else did...
@@Fixthisbuildthat You could also look at making a Corsi-Rosenthal Box for the space - the HVAC can't get dusty if the air's already clean :)
Yeah Chris (Glimpse Inside) found out why you need a filter box the hard way!
Agree 100% about DIY. The capacitor thingy is kinda dangerous, but
Yea, if you know what you're doing, then it's worth it.
It would be great if you could do a video on what and how to do for annual maintenance.
pretty basic. clean outdoor coils, clean indoor filters and blowers
@@Fixthisbuildthat 😮
The problem with these DIY systems is long term serviceability. Not one contractor out of dozens in my local area will service or repair DIY hvac systems. Arguably you could just install another one considering the price point, but it's something to consider nonetheless.
This is why I had mine installed by a local HVAC contractor. No regrets.
@@williamellis8993 Yep, me too. Not to mention the Daikin I had installed has a twelve year warranty. I spend enough time out of town and away from home that I didn't want to leave my wife with a headache incase anything goes wrong with the HVAC system at the house. Now we can be rest assured that help is a phone call away if anything breaks down.
Definitely something to consider. You'll likely have to find a side-jobber to do work unless you do it yourself.
@@Fixthisbuildthat hard to find a "side jobber" with the proper hvac equipment to service them. Thankfully, I'm friendly with my two local hvac companies and have hired them for other work They don't like servicing it, but they will. I've never seen an industry so hell bent on brand loyalty as HVAC. They'll all absolutely trash talk any brand they don't directly sell.
@@Fixthisbuildthat For sure. I'm not saying don't do it. Heck, I'll probably install a DIY unit in my detached garage this year. But if that unit goes out it's simply an inconvenience not an emergency where my family is going to freeze. I only want to caution those considering going the DIY route to think about downsides and if the application is appropriate.
Thanks saved over $3k on my install!
Nicely done and handy stud finder. 👍
thanks!
Nice DIY video of how to install. I just ordered a MRCOOL for my garage from Costco and I heard adding an HVAC surge protector at the disconnect may be a good idea to protect the condensing unit. I chose MRCOOL because I get the warranty as a DIYer.
Please keep in mind when looking at the price of things like capacitors from an AC company, you're not paying for just the capacitor. You are paying for the part, the shipping of the part to our shop, the wages of the shop crew to stock it, the gas/maintenance of my work vehicle, gas money, and my wages and labor to install it. Not to mention, my knowledge to know that it needs replaced at all. Now, that being said, depending on company and location, a capacitor shouldn't cost more then maybe $200 total if that's all that's wrong, and I am ALL for people learning to do basic DIY for themselves. Just something to keep in mind from the perspective of someone who works in the industry.
My AC guy that installed me a new whole house HVAC unit..well my bdrm gets really hot in the summer now. he said it is my ducting in the attic. its old stuff they don't use anymore..like the big connecting box in the attic. house built in 2004. I had zero problems before new install..BUT my old unit ran R22...now i have the R410 i think is what it is. he also recommended adding a mini split. i know i cant afford that by a pro..sooo before i get too old..i need to learn to do this..orr pay AC man to replace all my duct work in the attic. just HOW HARD is it to do this? I can do a little plumbing, a little electrical although not alot. know NOTHING about AC units. what do you suggest?
Nice Video. And Yes, I came here to see how to replace the old line set with the DYI line set. Just Iffy about this step rest is doable. I have little idea now about the challenges that I will go through.
Thanks Brad! I appreciate this video!
That is a really nice diy system. Will definitely look at it when I build my shop.
a mini split for the shop is sooooo nice
I really liked this one. My garage/shop needs a mini-split in the worst way. The uninsulated garage door gets full afternoon sun. Summer's are murder. I'm just nervous about getting on a ladder at my age. The condenser would sit in direct sun on the south side of the house. Is that an issue?
I installed a Mr cool unit about a year ago. I did have a filler valve that leaked from a factory defect. Local hvac repairman fixed leak and refilled refrigerant. Mr cool offered to ship out the new part. But I had the repairman just replace the little valve.
Great video! I have a cbc wall. What would be the best fasteners to attach to concrete block? Thanks. Tommy
Please do a video of restoring a wall that was mural painted. I primed and painted, but the edges and brush marks are telegraphing through. Is my only option to retexture (orange peal) the wall?
Thank you for doing this video. I am so getting one now for my gaming side room in the future. I got a lot more diy to do before then.
great place to put one
That bit at 6:20 is perfect!!!
Just another valuable thing to learn I’m a welder. I’m a machinist, a pilot. I’m a homeowner. I’m an investor , I’m a truck driver , I build carports. I am a mason , bring it on.
Mind blown... when I installed mine it never occurred to me I could have installed the lineset mostly inside the garage... in hindsight wish I has for one of the air handlers (3 zone system with 2 into a garage/shop and 1 into a detached shed office).
FYI, smart phone control is super nice to be able to turn everything on an hour before I head to my shop. It does have a couple annoying things, like you can't schedule it to go into FP (Freeze Protection) mode which is the same as setting the heat to 45F. Lowest you can normally set in regular heat mode is 62F. And can't do things like "always turn off after 4 hours". I just schedule mind to go off at 4pm and midnight in case I ever forget. Overall, 3 years later, still super happy with the whole thing though!
gotta tell yeah, it was a huge extra pain doing it that way though, lol. That dang water heater really made it tough. I'm going to try and hook it up to Home Assistant and do scheduling that way if needed
@@Fixthisbuildthat LMAO... of course you use HA. Anyway, installing linesets into covers is always a PITA, I sure extra PITA behind the water heater. One thing to be sure of is you have good slope to your condensate line and that wherever it exits it won't freeze and get plug. I use mine as much for heating as cooling, imagine you will too.
I really enjoyed your installation of your brand new Mr. Cool heating & cooling unit!
Well done, Brad!
If this type of unit is installed in a house that has central ac now, does this unit use the existing vents to each room? I think there has to be a interior blower in each room. Also, how does this unit control humidity? Is it the same as central air.
no, this is a ductless unit. and temp and humidity are controlled by a sensor on unit or remote
This should be renamed - Replacing an existing minisplit......you don't have to deal with a lot I would.....no pad, no electrical, etc. Not meant as a diss, its still a good video
fair, but I would have had the electrical disconnect done professionally anyway and the pad is literal buy and drop in place. So it's really just the hole through the wall. And if you don't have brick that's a breeze
get a loaner vacuum pump and gauges from the autoparts store. You will probably need a 1/4 to 5/16 adapter to hook up to the access port. Please pull a vacuum and check for drop, you are leaving air in the system.
Mitsubishi mini splits are supposed to be really good quality. Very disappointing to see the whole system failed after only 6 years.
Agree and good to know paying for Mitsubishi does not guarantee long term reliability.
Completely agree. I paid up to get the Mitsu when I bought it, thinking it was the best in market....apparently it wasn't. The exact failure was a leak in the evaporator coil caused by corrosion. There was no coating on the fins or tube brackets to prevent rust
Not worth it unless you pay someone to install it that’s licensed and bonded but I just got quoted 26k for an 18000btu unit that was literally directly on the other side of the electric box. Unreal
Mitsubishi has a 10 year warranty when installed by a licensed contractor, what happened to the warranty?
I had one installed by a Mitsubishi “authorized installer” listed on the Mitsubishi web site and the thing NEVER worked. Big run around from Mitsubishi. Never again.
Just an FYI: You are not allowed to use regular Romex in an outside location. Any conduit outside is considered a wet location, even inside the conduit due to condensation.
Thanks Brad. How's the new home doing?
Great video a few questions I'm no AC expert but why did your first mini split break on you after only 6 years I have a traditional window air conditioner that I've abused for last 9 and it's still running perfectly fine, I've been wanting to get a mini split because it's quieter than a traditional window air conditioner . Also shouldn't you hang up the air handler at a slight angle to allow gravity to pull out the condensation if you can let me know at your convenience thanks .
What do you mean by "too bad it is not 2016" concerning pallet wood?
Great video, really useful instructions. Question. Does the refrigerant tubing come with the unit? If you needed to cut the piping, is it easy to cut, attach connections, what happens to the refrigerant if the tubing is pre-pressurized?. Cheers
The systems comes pre-charged and sealed. The line set comes with your system. No, you cannot cut the lines to size; you must use them as-is and stow any excess neatly.
Mr Cool might be different than others but generally the line set has a vacuum pulled on it (the woosh sound you hear when connecting) and the refrigerant is in the outside unit. Checking for leaks under a vacuum risks pulling leak detector into the line set. I normally hook up all my lines pull the vacuum to the micron level and make sure it holds. I follow this with a nitrogen charge and at that point I look for leaks at all of my connections. I then pull a vacuum again and open the system up. Again, Mr. cool might be different, but it doesn’t make sense.
I'd suggest using a Pipe Pressure Tester to test any leakage in the whole pipework, before filling with refrigerant.
great video, but out of curiosity, why are you doing this on your "old" house? aren't you in your new place?
I'm far away from being at that stage unfortunately, and I needed to get it fixed/replaced one way or the other
@@Fixthisbuildthat oh gotcha! thanks for the reply!
Mr Cool units are 2x the price of other DIY models. Their lineset can't be cut so you're going to coil the extra unless you're lucky on the length. All you need is $150 in tools. Check other brands to save over $1100 over the unit that was installed. Same warranty.
But, do the others warranty the unit if you do the DIY? All the ones I have researched require a certified tech to do installation for the warranty and local techs will not touch them because you didn't buy their systems.
My question is about dust. I have a wood shop and despite my efforts things get dusty when I’m working. Are you compensating for the dust in the air with additional filtering or just relying on the internal filter. I’ve seen other DIYers who build additional filtering. It’s one of the reasons I’ve hesitated installing a mini-split.
What happened to the shed build?
christmas, travel and 7" of snow, lol. It's coming back soon!
If you need the copper pipes to come out from the right side of the ac indoor unit is it possible to bend them to the right? I'm just afraid they will crack or kink since have to bend them 180degrees. Any suggestions?
Is it true that the heat setting will only go down to 62? The description on Amazon says it goes down to 32. I was hoping to install one in my shop and turn the heat down low in the winter to keep it just above freezing.
Probably just in cooling mode. If in heat mode you can probably set it a lot lower.
62 is the lowest it will go
I did the same AC blower far repair with my AC!
Isn't the whole system pre-charged with refrigerant, lines and unit? If so, when you attach the lines and open the valves between them nothing flows across. The two sides just mix.
Your DIY origin story hits home. Predatory contracting is rampant, makes it more difficult for everyone, and makes the world a worse place. We need more honesty in business and the world.
HVAC guys online are saying they will all be making $300 k/yr soon.
Three things:
1. Straighten out the most of the line set before inserting it into the wall (it’ll make it much easier)
2. I wish there was an option to completely replace the condensation line with PVC. The corrugated tubing will trap water and get moldy.
3. Make sure there’s a pitch away for the drain
great tips
What’s the best location to install a mini split in a 12x32 shed converted to tiny home? On the end of short wall or long wall?
short wall, typically
Does it require a license to install the mini split unit? I know the electrical part may need a licensed electricial.
All 3 components come pre charged, not just the line set.
Sorry, that is not true. The lines are pre-charged, not the indoor or outdoor units. Excerpt straight from the patent #US-11747025-B2 page 36. Verbatim, no parenthesis added by me. 😀
Female quick-connect connectors are disposed at either end of the pre-charged line-set, in communication with the conduit piping, and are equpped with a variety of features specifically designed for the containment of refrigerant within the pre-charged line-set and the calculated release of the refrigerant into (and only into) the indoor and outdoor units of the HVAC system via mating male quick-connect connectors disposed on the units themselves.
So if you needed a coolant recharge do you just replace the pipes?
the outdoor unit still has a refrigerant supply line, so you could add if you needed to
There is no refrigerant in the line set . How would one keep in the charge when connecting the lines to the evap and condenser? Impossible!.. the condenser is where it hold the charge . After u connect the lines you evacuate the lines as well as the evap once u have a good vacuum u open the valves on the condenser and they then get released within the lines as well as the evap . If u need to change out the evap or do a repair in which u need to disconnect the lines u turn on the unit on cool close the valve on the liquid line once that is done the pressure should drop on the suction line and with your gauges once the psi drops close to 1 psi you close the suction line valve and all your refrigerant is stored in the condenser
@@geminithugbaby473 feel free to go read the patent to understand how it works. But yes, the refrigerant is in the lineset.
@Fixthisbuildthat - If you have a partially finished garage and you want buy the appropriate sized Mr Cool unit, how do you calculate the sq footage with an open ceiling to the A-frame roof?
great question and honestly I don't know. But I'd imagine in the winter is where you'll have the issue. Summer time the upper area shouldn't matter as cool air is heavier. And potentially adding a fan above the rafters could push that warm air down in the winter
Romex (NM Cable) in conduit outdoors?
Fantastic work, Brad! Really well done! 😃
Yeah, I'm going to need to install one pretty soon at my shop as well. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, MC. A mini split will make your shop life so much better!
Did you use 10/2 w/ground from your disconnect?
the prior installer did that hook up and I forget what it was. orange jacket
Will 2 units heat a 2 level 2400 sq foot home?
Hi. Great Video. I have a small 1.5 car garage (~400 sq ft) I'd love to cool. Can you recommend a unit that is super-easy to install that runs on a 110 v AC outlet (instead of being hard-wired)? My budget is $1500.00 but I'd love to be closer to $1000.00 or less.
Consider a roll-away type air conditioner. There are many on the market. My brother-in-law has a 14,000 Btu/hr LG, and is very happy with it. You connect to the outdoors with hoses. They ARE noisy, though.
Does this plug into an outlet? 120 or 240?
it is connected to a 240v disconnect in a service panel
Great video and very helpful, Thank you!
I just had a guy quote me 18k to replace my existing Fujitsu mini split with a Fujitsu mini split. That's reusing all the lines so just swapping the old system for new already wired for 240 HVAC guys are crazy the system cost just under 6k so that's 12k in labor for one days work he said it would take to do. Mine works just 20 years old stopped working so I charged it up un scientifically and it's working pretty good. Just thought I'd upgrade but now I'm thinking I'll wait and see how long this charge holds it only cost 130 bucks for the 410a that's a lot less than 18k where I come from.
How could you pressure test your inside without hooking up to the heat pump and opening the valves. There is no pressure in the lines until that point.
Do u need solar wth these
How much did the permit cost?
Hey Brad, great install. BTW, the outdoor unit (compressor) is pre-gassed with refrigerant. The lines are usually empty. The indoor unit is filled with Nitrogen gas to keep it clean and prevent oxidization. That is the noise you heard when removing the plugs from the indoor unit.
Having installed a few of these, the condensing unit (outside unit) has 99% of the refrigerant in it, the evaporator unit/ fan coil (inside unit) and line set have a holding charge. This is how you avoid pulling a vacuum on the system. Once you tighten down the connections you pierce the line set seals and it's ready to go
This is a common but inaccurate statement as I clarified in the video. But don't take my word for it. Here is the direct wording from Mr. Cool's patent #US-11125479-B1 😀
Apparatuses, systems, and methods for providing non-expert installation of HVAC systems are provided. The HVAC system includes an indoor unit, an outdoor unit, a first pre-charged refrigerant line-set, a second pre-charged refrigerant line-set, and a line-set coupler, each containing pre- pressurized refrigerant securely positioned therein prior to engagement between two or more of the aforementioned elements. The first pre-charged refrigerant line-set is couplable between an indoor unit refrigerant port of the indoor unit and a first coupler end of the line-set coupler. The second pre-charged refrigerant line-set is couplable between an outdoor unit refrigerant pot of the outdoor unit and a second coupler end of the line-set coupler.
Great video thanks for sharing
what thermal camera is that ?
You missed a critical point: What type of freon does the system use? Make sure it something like R410A that can be purchased locally incase there's a leak. Most likely these, Made in China, units WILL develop a leak ;)
Yes, all MrCool DIY systems use R410A. But......sourcing refrigerant is just the start. You still need to pump down the system and there IS skill required. In my limited experience, Chinese products are no more prone to developing leaks than other makes. Don't forget, Midea and Gree are the world's biggest, most successful HVAC and appliance manufacturers on the planet. They're somewhat new to us, here in the West, but common around the world.
my concern, with my luck, would be to run into a burr connecting the lines, vent all the refrigerant to the atmosphere, lose the vacuum, the thing is essentially scrap because those connectors are proprietary, and i just gotta get a new one... i see it as a gamble because of the installation, but it's still nice to know it exists because of the price point...
1 note, you should've let air escape a little bit before closing the circuit
Why are splits so expensive in the US? Herr in aus yiu can get a 5kw split installed for $1500-3000aud
When Mr Cool sends me a free one I will install one. lol
What thermal camera is that?
it's the FLIR Edge One Pro. It's awesome amzn.to/4brIsps
Damn, Mr. Cool really just handed these out to all the DIY TH-camrs
Don't worry, they'll pass that "savings" on to anyone who actually pays for one.
It's a great business model. Make a good product that is easy to install and will save you a ton a money and put it in the hands of people who can share it. Win-win-win
@@Fixthisbuildthat Except that having a marketing budget that is much higher than your engineering budget isn't really conducive to making a good product.
@@rthomp03 sounds like you don't run a business, lol. Making a great product is a one-time cost. Marketing is not
That's all well and good, but I spent half as much on a unit and when I kinked one of the hard lines all I had to do was cut the kinked portion out, flare it, and use a flare union fitting. That mistake would have cost me like two or three hundred with one of these "DIY" systems to replace the kinked line. My unit with the tools required to install was still way cheaper, and now I can install another normal unit at my leisure in the house with the tools I now have in my possession.
Hey Brad, how's the shed coming?
well, it was buried under 7" of snow for a while, but I'm switching back to it soon!
Maaaannnnn I wish you would have done this a couple years ago 😂
lol, I wish it'd done it 6 years ago and saved half my money.
Thank you for the show.
Now I know
and knowing is half the battle
I'm looking at that in the future for my shop
best shop upgrade I ever made
now to just find one that is available in Canada that is also precharged. The ones I'm finding all require flaring the tubes and using a vacuum to get the air out.
@@Fixthisbuildthat
Remember to tighten the caps on the valves good and tight!
I noticed you uninstalled the Mitsubishi unit. Was replacing parts on that a less viable option? My impression was that those were one of the more reputable brands that last.
Capacitor story: My GE washer stopped spinning with heavy loads. I traced the issue to the capacitor, which I priced at $250 from GE parts. I found the same spec capacitor at Princess Auto(Canada's Harbour Freight) for $30!!
Learning to use a vacuum pump and about the compressor/evaporator/condenser seems like something anyone could do if they are already capable of all this.
I really like your HVAC guy story tho
yes, it's not so much pulling the vacuum or reading pressures that is hard. It's actually sizing, cutting, and flaring the tubing for good, solid and clean joints that seems to be the difficult part and most common place for failure from what I read.
That's actually the one thing I don't like about Mr Cool: All the extra length in the line set. You can coil it up or whatever, but it's still there, and still ugly. I need about 8' for mine, and the minimum is 10', but at least I don't have an extra 13' of line on it. Flaring the joints and pulling the vacuum is pretty easy, IMHO.
Personally I hate smart devices that need the cloud. If you're the same, I swapped a Midea SLWF-01pro ESPHome module into mine and I use it with my home assistant entirely locally. Mr. Cool is manufactured by Midea, so this dongle will function the same.
QUESTION - If it would be easier to go on exterior wall, what was holding you back from doing that on the wall that you feed the lines through?
hey Keith! 2 things. 1. it wouldn't distribute air through my shop as well (pointed across the short distance vs long distance of my shop). 2. The hot water heater vent piping is in the way
@@Fixthisbuildthat ok, didn't know what you had going over on the exterior to limit use, thanks.
Great Review, Done well. Cheers
thanks, John!
How's the new shop coming? You left us hanging on that and the shed
indeed. 2024 has been a very slow start and very very rainy/snowy. But the weather is turning around!
Looks like a nice unit Brad. I was wondering if the company would still honor the warrantee on a self installed unit? Also, haven't seen any videos on your house in the woods? Are you still working on that house? Just curious. Thanks! 👍👍
hey, Steve. They definitely honor the warranty on the DIY kit. It's specifically made for weekend warriors to install. And there will be more vids on the new property soon. Been a slow start to the year