There are IR repeaters so you can redirect the remote signal to a location that may be not line of site. These are used in audio video all the time, but why not for mini-splits. That way Instead of installing the head unit in the optimal location to point a infrared remote, you can install it in a location that is optimal for comfort and air distribution.
Aesthetics are a factor when choosing a location. People are not yet used to seeing the large interior unit, and it can sometimes be located in an inconspicuous location. Also, the fan baffles can be adjusted to keep the air flow from blowing certain directions (like down in a bedroom). The unit in my house has the air blowing only at ceiling level and it does a good job of heating the whole house with one unit. (I have a 1000 sg ft house.)
It is 3 months to date since I applied to Hydro One for a new line to my house to get a 200 amp panel. The electrician and heat pump installer are ready to go. The upstairs floor unit will be on an outside wall. The downstairs unit will be indirectly on an outside wall. That is it will be on what was an outside wall, but the lines will go into the utility room and then to the outside. The lines will be hidden by the hot water heater. Maybe by winter it will be ready.
I am a retired facility engineer and was responsible for overseas construction, maintenance and repairs of all infrastructure to include HVAC, power, UPS and Gen backup. I have installed many minisplits but now I am old and would rather pay someone to install and maintain. Unfortunately, I have tried to use different HVAC companies and had very poor results not to mention outrageous estimates and costs. I have yet to witness an honest and qualified HVAC tech or company. I will do it myself until I can no longer climb a ladder. Even a simple job like troubleshooting and replacing a capacitor will cost at least a few hundred dollars when it takes less than one hour and the cap is ~$15. I realize their time is money and they have to make a profit on the parts since they usually have them on the truck. The freon costs are exorbitant with them trying to get 500% profit at least. I have many other horror stories from when friends call me after a tech tells them they need a whole new unit but it is something minor and I fix it for them. Some of the techs they advertise they are certified which means they have a license to buy and handle freon. Very few have actually had an AAS in HVAC and claim they learn OJT which means they accompany another tech who may or may not know what they are doing. HVAC and plumbing companies are the worse in taking advantage of folks even more than automotive techs or electricians. The industry needs to police themselves and I don't see that happening. You asked for comments. I think you are one of the good guys and I like to watch your videos and I am subscribed. These videos help me stay current and are good refreshers. Good job. IMHO.
Informative, some of your recommendations luckily have thought about: you may remember I asked you on your live show about minis in a "tight" house; if I do the mini, it will in a new construction. My thoughts are that I'd have a ducted unit doing the master, master bath, master closet all the stuff on one end of the house; a mini head for the kitchen/family room/breakfast dining area (not sure how many I'll need - hopefully the manual J will tell me), then my thoughts are the smallest units available in each of 3 bedrooms (family members/guests can control room temps for themselves). ....maintenance/cleaning is the one thing that concerns me...
Your concerns for small rooms are certainly valid. We see folks oversize systems, unknowingly all the time in small rooms, expecting an inverter system to ramp down. Problem is that they will still put the system on full blast and never give the inverter a chance to ramp down and work properly. Thank you for your comment!
@gwenherrington I've been doing some research on these Mini Splits and they actually have ones that can be installed on the lower wall and even in the ceiling. I had the same issue...a sunroom with all windows and I didn't have much space between ceiling and windows. But I CAN go with one of these other options 😊
Ok I got one for you I have a 27k mr cool system running 2 heads , both units run great in ac mode but when upping the temp to heat mode one head goes into stand by , btw it’s only in auto mode if I put in heat mode manually they both run ok I believe at least when tested they did ???
What is more important during installation: to install the line sets between the evaporator and condenser completely vertical and to place the evaporator on the longer wall in a rectangular bedroom OR to install the line sets diagonally crossing the corner of two walls in order to place the evaporator in the interior of the shorter wall exposed to strong winds and the condenser in the exterior of longer wall protected from strong winds?
Thank you for your video, I do have a question if you don't mind answering. I am about to install a mini split in an insulated Craft Room in my Shop. It is just a 12'x24' room that the entrance to the room is in the middle of the interior 24' wall. So I for sure planned on installing on exterior wall but being so narrow was assuming for best airflow to install it on the exterior 12' wall so that air is pushed across the room if that matters? That exterior wall where I plan on installing it will not be exactly where I would but the outside unit, it would be right around the corner on the back 24' exterior wall. I have 16' of line so assume I can go out and right around and put in that corner. The jist is, just trying to determine if that would be the best location being it is a rectangular room and figured it would disperse the air across the room better compared to if I put on the back wall in the middle it only has that 12' to go and door is on the other side. If it will still disperse just fine that way, it would for sure be the better location that way the lines go straight down. Hopefully I am explaining it good enuf without being able to paste pics ha. Thanks for your response.
You may have the perfect location for the indoor unit but not the best for outdoor unit. The outdoor unit can be subject to noise, theft, visually unpleasant walkway obstruction and environmental concerns such as direct sun or rain exposure, not enough air flow etc. another factor for indoor unit is if you lived in the house for along time you may be aware of certain areas of a room are colder or hotter so focus on that area. Best to place it next to any heat loads such as windows to remove heat before it can get to the rest of the house. Use caution in kitchen or shops as dirty air cooking oil ets is probably not good for the coils. I especially like the tip on remote control
At the 8:00 mark is a diagram describing this. 6 inches from the ceiling and usually 6+ feet from the floor. But each unit will describe this in the manual and there are units for low and high mount locations
Can you install a minisplit on the wall to a closet, where the back wall of the closet is the exterior wall. In my case, the lines would be accessible inside the closet. Your thoughts?…
I kinda have a weird situation. We have a 3 car garage and I'd need to install the condensor on the outside of the far east wall, run the lines through the garage allllllll the way over to what is otherwise a 4th bay of the garage (home builder opted to make it a room instead of another garage bay) but is an air conditioned room (my office). I can't install the condensor right outside of my office because the condensor would be visible from the street and the HOA says no. So I'd need to have about 60' of line. I'm having trouble figuring out how to buy the hardware I need.
Please advise I have water dropping from my air handler coil, pan and drain line are not blocked. Any suggestions? My ac company can’t figure it out, and are nickel and diming me as if it’s no big deal. Thanks in advance.
@@NewHVACGuide dripping off coil before it gets down to the pan , landing on air filter. Unit is a trane only 2 years old. Thanks for getting back to me.
That’s really weird. They should not be nickel and diming you. They should be trying to get to the bottom of it and not charging any money until they do. Perhaps it’s time to get a second opinion?
@@NewHVACGuide and check this out, the tech told me for $350 he could spray the special spray on the coil. Sure enough I paid it because he had things half torn apart and I wanted to make sure he put it back together correct anyway the $350 special spray worked for a little bit but just the other day I found drops on my air filter again please please help
Videos I saw people install the condenser unit too close to the wall. The book I had said if it was wall mounted with the brackets it could be 6" ground mount 12" is required. I think 6" is just too close going to restrict the flow of air no matter bracket mounted or not really need a full 12" at least 24" is even better.
i’ve got a small sized wall with a tv mounted on it. can i put a split system on that wall, next to the mounted tv? i’m worried about the structure of the wall. thanks
I need your help! Mini split manuals say the minimum height of the inside unit is 98.5" from the bottom of the unit to the floor. The instructions say the full cooling effect won't be reached if placed lower than 98.5". My ceiling height is less than what they say is required. I am trying to think about the reason for a reduction in the cooling effect. I noticed they did not use the word performance or mention a reduced heating effect. I doubt the coolant knows how high the indoor unit is, so the only thing I can think of is the fact that hot air rises, and whoever wrote the height requirement might have been thinking about a layer of hot air floating above the unit that would cause a perceived loss of cooling effect. The instruction says to leave 6" between the top of the unit and the ceiling for, I presume, door clearance. It seems to me that regardless of the floor-to-unit height if the unit is as tight to the ceiling as required, there would be no reduction in the cooling effect. Then again, maybe there is something I don't understand about coolant flow requirements in mini split air conditioners. What do you think?
Clearances are usually minimums. A minimum for airflow or servicing. Height requirements have more to do with comfort. Most systems are designed with the algorithms understanding that they will be mounted high to blow low. Heat rises and so comfort in the space takes that into account. Mounting it at a different height, may require you to set the temperature higher or lower than typical to get the desired comfort
We are in an RV and we want to put the line set on the roof. I want to know if that will be an issue with the drain line. Could we separate them and have the drain go down the side of the rv to the ground while the line set goes up and along the roof. Help 😁
I am trying to figure out the location of a mini split for my shop which is adobe. Trying to figure out the location of the nearest circuit breaker to connect it to is a major decision!
Depending on the room size and the climate. I have mitsu 15k btu cooling 20x50 with no issues in NY in 90 degrees. It does not work very well for heating though. It helps by a very little. Daikin 12K btu cooling 16x20 room in fan set to 1 bar with no issues at all. Did not use for heating, even though it's heat/cold unit. My comfort temp is 75. Figure out if that will work for based on that info. I am not an installer, just an FYI.
@@matthewmeek5568 Not very often, but I did install my own mini split Friday evening and Saturday morning. It works fantastic. I watched about 8 or 10 vids on the subject and this guy's was hands down the worst and most condescending towards DIYers and home owners. The best one? by far a 60 year old woman who posts as "SeeJaneDrill". Guys like this should stick to running their businesses and skip the whole TH-cam content producer gig.
You did not know why there must be so much side clearance. I would like to install one at the end of a hallway, but there wouldn’t be enough side clearance. Do the plastic sides have to be removed for repairs, such as replacing a fan motor, or a line set?
@@NewHVACGuide Thanks. Your videos are helpful. I’ll get a less powerful unit with a narrower air handler. I live in the Pacific Northwest, where the weather is mild year round. I probably don’t need the size manufacturers recommend based on square footage.
@@NewHVACGuide True, but load calc is no substitute for trial & error. After dumping $4K into a couple of replacement compressors for my “central,” whole-house, forced-air, heat pump system, both of which failed, I decided to use the attic air handler for ventilation only. I installed an under-powered mini split in the area with the attic air intake, to see if it could keep up. The house is 1200 sq. ft. The 12K mini split keeps up unless the temp climbs into the 90s. I’m going to install another 9K unit in the hallway, so it blows toward the air handler intake. If that isn’t sufficient, there’s a third location, well separated from the other 2 units I can install a third unit. I realize installation costs of discreet units is an issue, but the redundancy improves overall reliability over a system with multiple air handlers connected to one outside unit.
@@scottstruif3939Multiple independent units conditioning a common area can compete with each other on auto setting. Some of the units in heating operation can trigger other unit (s) into cooling operation and vice versa, wasting electricity in a continuous, unnoticed manner. I've seen 4 units controlling a large octagonal room with half the units cooling and the other half heating for weeks on end. This setup can work provided all units are used in the same mode only. In the shoulder seasons only one unit is being powered on with ceiling fans being run for even air distribution.
"Who knows?" Not exactly the sort of thing one wants to hear when using a video for engineering explanations. If the unit requires certain clearances, it's not a good thing to hear your expert say, "Why are these clearances specified? Who knows?"
dude get on with it you are talking way too much its nice to get to the point when you are doing research just an FYI I hate listening to long videos just so you know why I am looking elaswhere
Great video! Tons of great info! Wish you all were closer! Now I can ensure any company I hire takes all these things into consideration. Thanks!
There are IR repeaters so you can redirect the remote signal to a location that may be not line of site.
These are used in audio video all the time, but why not for mini-splits. That way Instead of installing the head unit in the optimal location to point a infrared remote, you can install it in a location that is optimal for comfort and air distribution.
Aesthetics are a factor when choosing a location. People are not yet used to seeing the large interior unit, and it can sometimes be located in an inconspicuous location. Also, the fan baffles can be adjusted to keep the air flow from blowing certain directions (like down in a bedroom). The unit in my house has the air blowing only at ceiling level and it does a good job of heating the whole house with one unit. (I have a 1000 sg ft house.)
Very good points!
It is 3 months to date since I applied to Hydro One for a new line to my house to get a 200 amp panel. The electrician and heat pump installer are ready to go. The upstairs floor unit will be on an outside wall. The downstairs unit will be indirectly on an outside wall. That is it will be on what was an outside wall, but the lines will go into the utility room and then to the outside. The lines will be hidden by the hot water heater. Maybe by winter it will be ready.
I am a retired facility engineer and was responsible for overseas construction, maintenance and repairs of all infrastructure to include HVAC, power, UPS and Gen backup. I have installed many minisplits but now I am old and would rather pay someone to install and maintain. Unfortunately, I have tried to use different HVAC companies and had very poor results not to mention outrageous estimates and costs. I have yet to witness an honest and qualified HVAC tech or company. I will do it myself until I can no longer climb a ladder. Even a simple job like troubleshooting and replacing a capacitor will cost at least a few hundred dollars when it takes less than one hour and the cap is ~$15. I realize their time is money and they have to make a profit on the parts since they usually have them on the truck. The freon costs are exorbitant with them trying to get 500% profit at least. I have many other horror stories from when friends call me after a tech tells them they need a whole new unit but it is something minor and I fix it for them. Some of the techs they advertise they are certified which means they have a license to buy and handle freon. Very few have actually had an AAS in HVAC and claim they learn OJT which means they accompany another tech who may or may not know what they are doing. HVAC and plumbing companies are the worse in taking advantage of folks even more than automotive techs or electricians. The industry needs to police themselves and I don't see that happening. You asked for comments. I think you are one of the good guys and I like to watch your videos and I am subscribed. These videos help me stay current and are good refreshers. Good job. IMHO.
Informative, some of your recommendations luckily have thought about: you may remember I asked you on your live show about minis in a "tight" house; if I do the mini, it will in a new construction. My thoughts are that I'd have a ducted unit doing the master, master bath, master closet all the stuff on one end of the house; a mini head for the kitchen/family room/breakfast dining area (not sure how many I'll need - hopefully the manual J will tell me), then my thoughts are the smallest units available in each of 3 bedrooms (family members/guests can control room temps for themselves). ....maintenance/cleaning is the one thing that concerns me...
Your concerns for small rooms are certainly valid. We see folks oversize systems, unknowingly all the time in small rooms, expecting an inverter system to ramp down. Problem is that they will still put the system on full blast and never give the inverter a chance to ramp down and work properly. Thank you for your comment!
super insightful as I consider getting mini splits
Thank you so much. I was curious can I install this over a window?
That's what I want to know. I need one in a sunroom with many windows so I don't have many options as to where I can place it.
He said no, don't install it over a window if you don't have to.
@gwenherrington I've been doing some research on these Mini Splits and they actually have ones that can be installed on the lower wall and even in the ceiling. I had the same issue...a sunroom with all windows and I didn't have much space between ceiling and windows. But I CAN go with one of these other options 😊
Thank you!
Ok I got one for you I have a 27k mr cool system running 2 heads , both units run great in ac mode but when upping the temp to heat mode one head goes into stand by , btw it’s only in auto mode if I put in heat mode manually they both run ok I believe at least when tested they did ???
I have an LG system that is also doing as you describe in Auto. Very annoying and I have yet to find a solution aside from never using auto.
Great info, We are in the initial stages of planning an install. Good food for thought.
What is more important during installation: to install the line sets between the evaporator and condenser completely vertical and to place the evaporator on the longer wall in a rectangular bedroom OR to install the line sets diagonally crossing the corner of two walls in order to place the evaporator in the interior of the shorter wall exposed to strong winds and the condenser in the exterior of longer wall protected from strong winds?
I am assuming this install location is not advisable? 7:50
Thank you for your video, I do have a question if you don't mind answering. I am about to install a mini split in an insulated Craft Room in my Shop. It is just a 12'x24' room that the entrance to the room is in the middle of the interior 24' wall. So I for sure planned on installing on exterior wall but being so narrow was assuming for best airflow to install it on the exterior 12' wall so that air is pushed across the room if that matters? That exterior wall where I plan on installing it will not be exactly where I would but the outside unit, it would be right around the corner on the back 24' exterior wall. I have 16' of line so assume I can go out and right around and put in that corner. The jist is, just trying to determine if that would be the best location being it is a rectangular room and figured it would disperse the air across the room better compared to if I put on the back wall in the middle it only has that 12' to go and door is on the other side. If it will still disperse just fine that way, it would for sure be the better location that way the lines go straight down. Hopefully I am explaining it good enuf without being able to paste pics ha. Thanks for your response.
I will definitely be more mindful now
I will endeavor to be more mindful.
You may have the perfect location for the indoor unit but not the best for outdoor unit. The outdoor unit can be subject to noise, theft, visually unpleasant walkway obstruction and environmental concerns such as direct sun or rain exposure, not enough air flow etc. another factor for indoor unit is if you lived in the house for along time you may be aware of certain areas of a room are colder or hotter so focus on that area. Best to place it next to any heat loads such as windows to remove heat before it can get to the rest of the house. Use caution in kitchen or shops as dirty air cooking oil ets is probably not good for the coils. I especially like the tip on remote control
Great info, I'm about to install in a home in the next two weeks.
How far down on wall off ceiling do you typically mount?
At the 8:00 mark is a diagram describing this. 6 inches from the ceiling and usually 6+ feet from the floor. But each unit will describe this in the manual and there are units for low and high mount locations
There are minimums. But I don’t usually do minimums. Sometimes the space and what looks nice plays a role.
Thanks man. veru helpful!
Can you install a minisplit on the wall to a closet, where the back wall of the closet is the exterior wall. In my case, the lines would be accessible inside the closet. Your thoughts?…
I’ve seen that done. Doesn’t look as nice but it works 🙂
Hey can these be installed on single wall homes?
I've seen them in homes with single walls
Thoughts on installing handler in an attic w/drain in the soffit? Obviously not ideal, but doable?
I kinda have a weird situation. We have a 3 car garage and I'd need to install the condensor on the outside of the far east wall, run the lines through the garage allllllll the way over to what is otherwise a 4th bay of the garage (home builder opted to make it a room instead of another garage bay) but is an air conditioned room (my office). I can't install the condensor right outside of my office because the condensor would be visible from the street and the HOA says no. So I'd need to have about 60' of line. I'm having trouble figuring out how to buy the hardware I need.
Please advise I have water dropping from my air handler coil, pan and drain line are not blocked. Any suggestions? My ac company can’t figure it out, and are nickel and diming me as if it’s no big deal. Thanks in advance.
Drain running down hill? Drain pan cracked? Where exactly is the water coming from?
@@NewHVACGuide dripping off coil before it gets down to the pan , landing on air filter. Unit is a trane only 2 years old. Thanks for getting back to me.
That’s really weird. They should not be nickel and diming you. They should be trying to get to the bottom of it and not charging any money until they do. Perhaps it’s time to get a second opinion?
@@NewHVACGuide and check this out, the tech told me for $350 he could spray the special spray on the coil. Sure enough I paid it because he had things half torn apart and I wanted to make sure he put it back together correct anyway the $350 special spray worked for a little bit but just the other day I found drops on my air filter again please please help
@@NewHVACGuide thanks I was thinking the same thing, and thanks for all the videos
Good advice
Thank you!
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www.youtube.com/@hvacguideliveshow
Can the condenser be installed horizontally?
The condenser should always be mounted so the compressor is upright.
This is a badass video. I learned a lot 👍🏼 Question: Do all ceiling cassettes require a condensate pump?
Not usually unless you need a lot of lift
Videos I saw people install the condenser unit too close to the wall. The book I had said if it was wall mounted with the brackets it could be 6" ground mount 12" is required. I think 6" is just too close going to restrict the flow of air no matter bracket mounted or not really need a full 12" at least 24" is even better.
More clearance is better than less.
i’ve got a small sized wall with a tv mounted on it. can i put a split system on that wall, next to the mounted tv? i’m worried about the structure of the wall. thanks
I need your help!
Mini split manuals say the minimum height of the inside unit is 98.5" from the bottom of the unit to the floor. The instructions say the full cooling effect won't be reached if placed lower than 98.5".
My ceiling height is less than what they say is required. I am trying to think about the reason for a reduction in the cooling effect. I noticed they did not use the word performance or mention a reduced heating effect. I doubt the coolant knows how high the indoor unit is, so the only thing I can think of is the fact that hot air rises, and whoever wrote the height requirement might have been thinking about a layer of hot air floating above the unit that would
cause a perceived loss of cooling effect.
The instruction says to leave 6" between the top of the unit and the ceiling for, I presume, door clearance. It seems to me that regardless of the floor-to-unit height if the unit is as tight to the ceiling as required, there would be no reduction in the cooling effect. Then again, maybe there is something I don't understand about coolant flow requirements in mini split air conditioners. What do you think?
Clearances are usually minimums. A minimum for airflow or servicing. Height requirements have more to do with comfort. Most systems are designed with the algorithms understanding that they will be mounted high to blow low. Heat rises and so comfort in the space takes that into account. Mounting it at a different height, may require you to set the temperature higher or lower than typical to get the desired comfort
We are in an RV and we want to put the line set on the roof. I want to know if that will be an issue with the drain line. Could we separate them and have the drain go down the side of the rv to the ground while the line set goes up and along the roof. Help 😁
yes. Drain just needs to have have fall to drain
I am trying to figure out the location of a mini split for my shop which is adobe. Trying to figure out the location of the nearest circuit breaker to connect it to is a major decision!
How come I read they said you can have eight mini splits with one unit outside??
Some units can have more than others
can I install the outside condenser under a carport? only 1 side is open in the carport
I've seen it done. Just make sure there's plenty of air flow and clearance. I've heard horror stories.
Very demure, very mindful.
Is a 12000 btu mini system good for a living room?
Depending on the room size and the climate. I have mitsu 15k btu cooling 20x50 with no issues in NY in 90 degrees. It does not work very well for heating though. It helps by a very little.
Daikin 12K btu cooling 16x20 room in fan set to 1 bar with no issues at all. Did not use for heating, even though it's heat/cold unit. My comfort temp is 75.
Figure out if that will work for based on that info. I am not an installer, just an FYI.
Thank you!!
You’re welcome!
Thanks!
Good info
Thank you!
You missed the outside unit, where is the best place to install it.
Check out this video! th-cam.com/video/290_otXG9nU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4jqA17T_WmQlQwXO
Thanks! But I'm scared now😂
Any idea how many times he said, "you need to be mindful"? 784 times! That's a lot of mindfuls.
Sorry to be so mindful 😔
Cuz he knows how often people are mindless.
How many times have people called you a prick?
@@matthewmeek5568 Not very often, but I did install my own mini split Friday evening and Saturday morning. It works fantastic. I watched about 8 or 10 vids on the subject and this guy's was hands down the worst and most condescending towards DIYers and home owners. The best one? by far a 60 year old woman who posts as "SeeJaneDrill". Guys like this should stick to running their businesses and skip the whole TH-cam content producer gig.
And yet, you 100% missed the "mindfullness" of this message.
Yep, you're definitely a new concentrated level of something, alright!
You did not know why there must be so much side clearance. I would like to install one at the end of a hallway, but there wouldn’t be enough side clearance. Do the plastic sides have to be removed for repairs, such as replacing a fan motor, or a line set?
Some repairs, yes. Depending on the brand you’re installing, some come apart different than others
@@NewHVACGuide Thanks. Your videos are helpful. I’ll get a less powerful unit with a narrower air handler. I live in the Pacific Northwest, where the weather is mild year round. I probably don’t need the size manufacturers recommend based on square footage.
Proper way to size is load calculation not square footage. Thank you for your kind words by the way
@@NewHVACGuide True, but load calc is no substitute for trial & error. After dumping $4K into a couple of replacement compressors for my “central,” whole-house, forced-air, heat pump system, both of which failed, I decided to use the attic air handler for ventilation only. I installed an under-powered mini split in the area with the attic air intake, to see if it could keep up. The house is 1200 sq. ft. The 12K mini split keeps up unless the temp climbs into the 90s. I’m going to install another 9K unit in the hallway, so it blows toward the air handler intake. If that isn’t sufficient, there’s a third location, well separated from the other 2 units I can install a third unit. I realize installation costs of discreet units is an issue, but the redundancy improves overall reliability over a system with multiple air handlers connected to one outside unit.
@@scottstruif3939Multiple independent units conditioning a common area can compete with each other on auto setting. Some of the units in heating operation can trigger other unit (s) into cooling operation and vice versa, wasting electricity in a continuous, unnoticed manner. I've seen 4 units controlling a large octagonal room with half the units cooling and the other half heating for weeks on end. This setup can work provided all units are used in the same mode only. In the shoulder seasons only one unit is being powered on with ceiling fans being run for even air distribution.
The title of this video should just be "Be mindful of that."
"Who knows?" Not exactly the sort of thing one wants to hear when using a video for engineering explanations. If the unit requires certain clearances, it's not a good thing to hear your expert say, "Why are these clearances specified? Who knows?"
I heard a lot of common sense.
Good ideas but mindful became painful
So sorry. I’ll be mindful of that 🙂↕️
Im a "Duck" Less owner.
dude get on with it you are talking way too much its nice to get to the point when you are doing research just an FYI I hate listening to long videos just so you know why I am looking elaswhere
Sorry