Hi Adam. Just finished replacing my own front discs, brake pads, caliper guide pins (saw it done on another video) and anti-rattle plates on my 10 year MK6 and your video gave me the confidence to do it. Car had been into a few garages recently to sort wheel squealing but they never seemed to fully fix the problem. They did manage to sell me new discs and pads though 🙄 (cheap ones by the look of them compared to what I bought myself). And now no squeals based on your instructions. Cheers for the video 🍻
Hi there, thanks for getting in touch and especially with such positive feedback. Sometime you get what you pay for and some budget brands out there can be the problem in itself. Regardless, I think this is a situation a lot of people have done and found the solution themselves so good on ya for doing that. We all live and learn. Very happy my video could help and thanks for your on-going support. ATB
Hi, thanks for such a positive comment. Glad you enjoyed. But yes, you’re totally correct, always check the sliders to make sure they’re free and greased accordingly. Thanks for your support. 👍
I had never replaced discs and pads before but this video was thorough and professional so I gave it a go. All done, thank you for such a comprehensive guide.👍
Very good video. Covered everything in detail. I especially liked the use of wrench to ease piston back, thus saving more expense, having to purchase special tool. Great stuff!
Hi Paul, thank you so much for positive feedback. Really appreciate your support and glad this particular video helped. All the best and thanks again 👍
Thank you for your comment, really glad you found it helpful. I do agree though, good practice would to secure the calliper so not to put any unnecessary weight on the brake pipe :)
Hi Adam, thanks to your video, I’m changing pads on my daughters fiesta, when I went to my local Gsf store, I was faced with a dilemma, drive tech for £20, or Delphi for about £40, I think Drive tech gsf own make, what would be your choice? Many thanks, Geoff
Hi, thanks of getting in touch. My complete honesty......I'm not sure. I've always repaired cars, especially their braking systems, using the same parts that are either genuine or a specifically cross referenced part number from a reputable after market supplier. If you have access to both models then always check that the part numbers are the same. If ever in doubt, please consult your local supplier before doing so.
Oh i forgot to add this. When i did my brakes on all my Oldsmobile's to but the piston back in we used the old brake pad over the piston and a C-clamp. There was plenty of room to use that and this way you didn't damage any part of the piston cause the used pad sat flush to it. And it put even pressure on the piston.
I am planning on doing my discs and pads soon as they came up as an advisory on my Ford Fiesta. So I decided to watch a video (or two) on how to change them and I must say this has to be the most informative and detailed videos on how to change them. I just watched one video and I think the guy's a butcher the way he was man handling the piston calliper !!
Hi Mark. Thank you so much for such a positive comment. I’m so grateful you took the time to watch and that you enjoyed the video. I’m sure you’ll be absolutely fine replacing your brakes. Any problem or concerns though please don’t hesitate to drop me a message and thanks for your support 🙌
Im in the US and i was wondering what 70 newton meters is in ft pounds? And great video very well explained and easy to follow step by step if we had to. Thank you. Dave
Hi Dave, apologies for the delay. Thanks for getting in touch. 70Nm is approx 52 ft/lbs. It’s not too tight at all. And regarding using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push the piston back, spot on. Great and safe way to push the piston back and evenly too. You can pitch the piston and it won’t go back or will be incredibly difficult. Sounds like you’ve got it all under control you’re end. Thanks again for getting in touch and supporting the channel. Adam
Thanks for getting in touch. Your new pads should come with a new caliber bolt(s) with thread lock pre-applied. If not, don't worry. It is good practice to apply thread lock to bolts within high heat proximity, especially on these bolts. But to re-use the old ones will still have some thread lock on that will still do their job. I've never had any issues or bolts coming lose at all. Hope that helps and thanks for the on-going support.
Thank you for your comment, very kind and glad it helps. Although, these brakes will almost be identical if not similar to the set up on the Ford Fiesta. The same principle will always apply. There will be a caliper piston to push back, pad carrier to clean & discs to remove from the hub. Any problems, please don’t hesitate to contact me. Thanks for your support
That was a horrendous technique... Everyone knows you put the milk in last lol... Seriously... a very well put together video covering all aspects of the task. Nicely done!
😁 only for tea, coffee the milk is best going in first......try it! Really appreciate you getting in touch and with such a positive comment. Thank you for your on-going support and glad you enjoyed it. 👌
I found getting the new pads into the carrier was impossible with the carrier on the car (the spring tang wouldn't let the pad(s) in) I had to pull the carrier and disc off the car, place the disc in a vise, put the pads in the carrier and push the carrier onto the disc from above. I then slid the disc onto the studs and oriented the carrier so I could attach it using the 2-15mm bolts. Originally someone had way overtorqued the 15mm bolts (what a headache).
The pads can be a bit resistant to go into the carrier. Once it does go in the springs do hold the pads in quite securely. Sounds like you managed to work around it and got it sorted in the end. Especially having to work around over torqued bolts 🤦♂️ thanks for getting in touch, glad the video helped guide you through 👍
So just a question regarding the discs and pads; I recently purchased some and ran into a similar problem, they didn’t fit ( both were too large ) It turns out that the discs I received were 278 mm. When reading through the manufacturers description the spec said they were for cars with rear disc brakes Apparently if you car has rear DRUM brakes the size you require is 258mm Is that the size you ended up swapping for?
Hi, apologies for the delay coming back to you. Yes, this is a really common problem. No just for this vehicle particularly but for all vehicle there will be different specs and variants for seemingly the same car. There will always be minor differences that can lead to wrong parts. Usually if the vehicle has drum brakes on the back, you can guarantee the engine size/performance will be less than that of a vehicle with discs as well on the rear. Bigger engine, bigger brakes to stop it. So the supplier may have accidentally looks up the wrong spec and sent you the incorrect brakes. A simple swap and job done. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for getting in touch and for your continued support.
With the calliper bracket bolts when I screw them in by hand first do I then snug tight them with a ratchet first then use the torque wrench? Or just use the torque wrench as soon as I’ve screwed them in by fingers? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. It doesn’t matter either way. You can try and tighten them by hand first finger tight but you may find you won’t be able to due to natural resistance and will have to use a ratchet just to nip them up. As long as a torque wrench is the last tool used to tighten them to the correct torque settings then the end result will be the same and efficient enough. Hope that helps 👍
@@greenautoservicesthank you for the info means a lot. So just to recap. Rule of thumb just nip them up whichever fastener your working ok before you using a torque wrench?
@@davidhartley9115 anytime, apologies for the delayed response but yes, nip them up however way, then use the torque wrench last. Just as long as the torque wrench clicks out at the correct specification, you know it's all correct.
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. So in this respect, because the wear is minor between the inboard and out pad it’s almost certain that at some point one of the pads would have been partially seized compared the the other. This will result in minor uneven brake force between the 2 pads over time causing this situation. Unless the difference was substantial then there may be a seized component such as the caliper piston itself or perhaps a slider. This is why when ever replacing brakes you have to ensure you clean up as best as possible any dirt or corrosion from contact surfaces that may cause any restriction. Hope that helps. Thanks for your support
The pads are got came with new pad clips but didn’t come with the metal shims, I installed them with out. Suppose I could of used the old ones, how important are they?
Yes this is quite common. Ideally if the new ones don't have any kind of shims on the back of the pads (metal or fabric) then you use the old ones. This is not a safety concern though. They are primarily designed to reduce micro vibrations (squealing). So if you have brake squeal then you may want to fit them. Otherwise the brake efficiency will be the same. Hope that helps and thanks for getting in touch.
Hello bud, I think my car needs new discs and pads. I assume the front of the car has discs and pads and the rear has drum brakes. Will these need replacing too?
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. Unless you have a Fiesta ST 1.6 turbo then you will have drum brakes on the back. Rear brake shoes will wear far less than front discs and pads. I’ve had my Fiesta from new (2010), I still done nearly 130,000 miles and I have yet to replace them. Saying that though, have them checked regularly as other components such as the wheels cylinders could be leaking or seized to cause premature wear. Once the wheels are off, the drums will be held on with 2 x torx bolts. Remove them and gently hit the drum with a hammer to release it off the hub (if it’s seized that is). Then inspect the cylinders for leaks, make sure the pistons move freely in and out and make a note of how worn the shoes are. Hope that helps and thanks for getting in touch 👍
@@aaronschelts5841 they can be quite tight if not changed for a while or if some one previous has put on too much loctight. Don’t be afraid to put a bit of elbow Great into it. Perhaps a longer ratchet / spanner to give you more leverage. If it really isn’t coming off then we may have to introduce some heat to it but realistically want to try and avoid that. Keep at it 👍
Nice video very well explained, One question, when you have completed fitting the discs and pads and you’re at the point where you’re pushing down on the pedal is the Master cylinder cap on or off while you are pumping them thanks
Best to leave the brake fluid reservoir cap off so it allows the fluid to naturally run down through the system. As long as the level doesn’t go below minimum then you’re good to go. Thanks for the feedback, appreciate the support 👍
If the old pads are seized in the carrier then you may need a small punch/hammer to knock them out. They may therefore require a thorough clean before the new ones will go in. Even when clean, the pads will be snug in the carrier. Thanks for getting in touch.
My mechanic charges for new rotor (aud $370 a pair) every time a new brake pad (aud $87 a pair), I thought the rotor should last much longer than the pads ?! Why can't they make pads (a bit softer) so they don't grind the rotor ?!
So this is a great scenario and a common question to ask. Typically, brake discs (rotors) are designed to take 2 sets of brake pads but not the other way round. It’s quite excessive to need to change discs (rotors) every time you change pads. Saying that, there other factors that can prematurely wear rotors such as corrosion, seized calipers/sliders etc. So maybe you’re just unlucky with other factors. However, as long as all mechanical components are doing what they should be doing then you should only need to replace rotors every 2nd set of pads. Maybe ask your mechanic to show you your rotors once he’s changed then 🫣 Hope that makes sense and helps. Thanks for getting in touch and thanks for your support 👍
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Hi Adam. Just finished replacing my own front discs, brake pads, caliper guide pins (saw it done on another video) and anti-rattle plates on my 10 year MK6 and your video gave me the confidence to do it. Car had been into a few garages recently to sort wheel squealing but they never seemed to fully fix the problem. They did manage to sell me new discs and pads though 🙄 (cheap ones by the look of them compared to what I bought myself). And now no squeals based on your instructions. Cheers for the video 🍻
Hi there, thanks for getting in touch and especially with such positive feedback. Sometime you get what you pay for and some budget brands out there can be the problem in itself. Regardless, I think this is a situation a lot of people have done and found the solution themselves so good on ya for doing that. We all live and learn. Very happy my video could help and thanks for your on-going support. ATB
This is the best DIY video on brakes replacement I ever seen. I would add also pins greasing. Thanks a lot 👍
Hi, thanks for such a positive comment. Glad you enjoyed. But yes, you’re totally correct, always check the sliders to make sure they’re free and greased accordingly. Thanks for your support. 👍
I had never replaced discs and pads before but this video was thorough and professional so I gave it a go. All done, thank you for such a comprehensive guide.👍
With your video I done it for first time very well. Thanks
That's exactly what I was going for. Good work and so glad the video helped :)
Very good video.
Covered everything in detail.
I especially liked the use of wrench to ease piston back, thus saving more expense, having to purchase special tool.
Great stuff!
Very comprehensive guide Adam, great!.😁😁😁
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for getting in touch and your on-going support.
Great informative video. Not rushed , gd camera angles and not spoken at 100 mph. Have just started following 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Paul, thank you so much for positive feedback. Really appreciate your support and glad this particular video helped. All the best and thanks again 👍
Sir, Thank you as this was informative. The only criticism is that you left the caliper hanging on the brake line
Thank you for your comment, really glad you found it helpful. I do agree though, good practice would to secure the calliper so not to put any unnecessary weight on the brake pipe :)
Indispensable video. Just what I needed.. thanks !
Finally a thorough mechanic. Why is it always bare minimum with everyone. If youre gonna charge up to £75 an hour, do the most thorough job possible.
Great tutorial thanks Adam.
More than welcome, thanks for getting in touch :)
Top clear and guide. Many thanks for the dedication to great service.🕯️
Very pro video, very well presented. Nice one!
Thanks for getting in touch. Really appreciate the positive feedback :)
Hi Adam, thanks to your video, I’m changing pads on my daughters fiesta, when I went to my local Gsf store, I was faced with a dilemma, drive tech for £20, or Delphi for about £40, I think Drive tech gsf own make, what would be your choice?
Many thanks, Geoff
Do you happen to know if brake compatibility is the same between WS and WT model Fiesta's?
Hi, thanks of getting in touch. My complete honesty......I'm not sure. I've always repaired cars, especially their braking systems, using the same parts that are either genuine or a specifically cross referenced part number from a reputable after market supplier. If you have access to both models then always check that the part numbers are the same. If ever in doubt, please consult your local supplier before doing so.
Oh i forgot to add this. When i did my brakes on all my Oldsmobile's to but the piston back in we used the old brake pad over the piston and a C-clamp. There was plenty of room to use that and this way you didn't damage any part of the piston cause the used pad sat flush to it. And it put even pressure on the piston.
I am planning on doing my discs and pads soon as they came up as an advisory on my Ford Fiesta. So I decided to watch a video (or two) on how to change them and I must say this has to be the most informative and detailed videos on how to change them. I just watched one video and I think the guy's a butcher the way he was man handling the piston calliper !!
Hi Mark. Thank you so much for such a positive comment. I’m so grateful you took the time to watch and that you enjoyed the video. I’m sure you’ll be absolutely fine replacing your brakes. Any problem or concerns though please don’t hesitate to drop me a message and thanks for your support 🙌
Im in the US and i was wondering what 70 newton meters is in ft pounds? And great video very well explained and easy to follow step by step if we had to. Thank you.
Dave
Hi Dave, apologies for the delay. Thanks for getting in touch. 70Nm is approx 52 ft/lbs. It’s not too tight at all. And regarding using the old brake pad and a c-clamp to push the piston back, spot on. Great and safe way to push the piston back and evenly too. You can pitch the piston and it won’t go back or will be incredibly difficult. Sounds like you’ve got it all under control you’re end. Thanks again for getting in touch and supporting the channel. Adam
What about putting thread lock on the caliper retaining bolts ????
Thanks for getting in touch. Your new pads should come with a new caliber bolt(s) with thread lock pre-applied. If not, don't worry. It is good practice to apply thread lock to bolts within high heat proximity, especially on these bolts. But to re-use the old ones will still have some thread lock on that will still do their job. I've never had any issues or bolts coming lose at all. Hope that helps and thanks for the on-going support.
Excellent explanation and presentation. Do you have any similar video for a 2015 Forb B-Max Eco? Thanks!
Thank you for your comment, very kind and glad it helps. Although, these brakes will almost be identical if not similar to the set up on the Ford Fiesta. The same principle will always apply. There will be a caliper piston to push back, pad carrier to clean & discs to remove from the hub. Any problems, please don’t hesitate to contact me. Thanks for your support
@@greenautoservices Thanks for the prompt answer. I already subscribed. Your videos are excellent!
@@onkelbebo3139 really appreciate it. Lots of content on its way 👍
That was a horrendous technique... Everyone knows you put the milk in last lol... Seriously... a very well put together video covering all aspects of the task. Nicely done!
😁 only for tea, coffee the milk is best going in first......try it! Really appreciate you getting in touch and with such a positive comment. Thank you for your on-going support and glad you enjoyed it. 👌
I found getting the new pads into the carrier was impossible with the carrier on the car (the spring tang wouldn't let the pad(s) in) I had to pull the carrier and disc off the car, place the disc in a vise, put the pads in the carrier and push the carrier onto the disc from above. I then slid the disc onto the studs and oriented the carrier so I could attach it using the 2-15mm bolts. Originally someone had way overtorqued the 15mm bolts (what a headache).
The pads can be a bit resistant to go into the carrier. Once it does go in the springs do hold the pads in quite securely. Sounds like you managed to work around it and got it sorted in the end. Especially having to work around over torqued bolts 🤦♂️ thanks for getting in touch, glad the video helped guide you through 👍
Excelente video, de gran ayuda!
Really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for getting in I touch and for your support 👍
So just a question regarding the discs and pads;
I recently purchased some and ran into a similar problem, they didn’t fit ( both were too large )
It turns out that the discs I received were 278 mm.
When reading through the manufacturers description the spec said they were for cars with rear disc brakes
Apparently if you car has rear DRUM brakes the size you require is 258mm
Is that the size you ended up swapping for?
Hi, apologies for the delay coming back to you. Yes, this is a really common problem. No just for this vehicle particularly but for all vehicle there will be different specs and variants for seemingly the same car. There will always be minor differences that can lead to wrong parts. Usually if the vehicle has drum brakes on the back, you can guarantee the engine size/performance will be less than that of a vehicle with discs as well on the rear. Bigger engine, bigger brakes to stop it. So the supplier may have accidentally looks up the wrong spec and sent you the incorrect brakes. A simple swap and job done. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for getting in touch and for your continued support.
With the calliper bracket bolts when I screw them in by hand first do I then snug tight them with a ratchet first then use the torque wrench? Or just use the torque wrench as soon as I’ve screwed them in by fingers? Thanks.
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. It doesn’t matter either way. You can try and tighten them by hand first finger tight but you may find you won’t be able to due to natural resistance and will have to use a ratchet just to nip them up. As long as a torque wrench is the last tool used to tighten them to the correct torque settings then the end result will be the same and efficient enough. Hope that helps 👍
@@greenautoservicesthank you for the info means a lot. So just to recap. Rule of thumb just nip them up whichever fastener your working ok before you using a torque wrench?
@@davidhartley9115 anytime, apologies for the delayed response but yes, nip them up however way, then use the torque wrench last. Just as long as the torque wrench clicks out at the correct specification, you know it's all correct.
3:03 in your opinion what would be the cause for the great difference in the brake pad wear between the right and left pad.
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. So in this respect, because the wear is minor between the inboard and out pad it’s almost certain that at some point one of the pads would have been partially seized compared the the other. This will result in minor uneven brake force between the 2 pads over time causing this situation. Unless the difference was substantial then there may be a seized component such as the caliper piston itself or perhaps a slider. This is why when ever replacing brakes you have to ensure you clean up as best as possible any dirt or corrosion from contact surfaces that may cause any restriction. Hope that helps. Thanks for your support
@@greenautoservices Thank you for the detailed reply, you're doing a great job sharing very useful videos and information👍
@@R.S.407 really appreciate all the support 👍
The pads are got came with new pad clips but didn’t come with the metal shims, I installed them with out. Suppose I could of used the old ones, how important are they?
Yes this is quite common. Ideally if the new ones don't have any kind of shims on the back of the pads (metal or fabric) then you use the old ones. This is not a safety concern though. They are primarily designed to reduce micro vibrations (squealing). So if you have brake squeal then you may want to fit them. Otherwise the brake efficiency will be the same. Hope that helps and thanks for getting in touch.
Hello bud, I think my car needs new discs and pads. I assume the front of the car has discs and pads and the rear has drum brakes. Will these need replacing too?
Hi, thanks for getting in touch. Unless you have a Fiesta ST 1.6 turbo then you will have drum brakes on the back. Rear brake shoes will wear far less than front discs and pads. I’ve had my Fiesta from new (2010), I still done nearly 130,000 miles and I have yet to replace them. Saying that though, have them checked regularly as other components such as the wheels cylinders could be leaking or seized to cause premature wear. Once the wheels are off, the drums will be held on with 2 x torx bolts. Remove them and gently hit the drum with a hammer to release it off the hub (if it’s seized that is). Then inspect the cylinders for leaks, make sure the pistons move freely in and out and make a note of how worn the shoes are. Hope that helps and thanks for getting in touch 👍
@@greenautoservices Cheers bud, attempting the front tomorrow!
@@aaronschelts5841 hope it goes/went well 👍
Bought everything for it and attempted it today, just couldn't get any of the 12mm bolts off, completely seized. Any ideas?
@@aaronschelts5841 they can be quite tight if not changed for a while or if some one previous has put on too much loctight. Don’t be afraid to put a bit of elbow Great into it. Perhaps a longer ratchet / spanner to give you more leverage. If it really isn’t coming off then we may have to introduce some heat to it but realistically want to try and avoid that. Keep at it 👍
Nice video very well explained, One question, when you have completed fitting the discs and pads and you’re at the point where you’re pushing down on the pedal is the Master cylinder cap on or off while you are pumping them thanks
Best to leave the brake fluid reservoir cap off so it allows the fluid to naturally run down through the system. As long as the level doesn’t go below minimum then you’re good to go. Thanks for the feedback, appreciate the support 👍
@@greenautoservices thanks man for the fast response, that deserved a subscription for you 👍
@@terryread1970 more than welcome. Glad I could help. Thank you for your support
Impossible to take out pads and put in new ones?
If the old pads are seized in the carrier then you may need a small punch/hammer to knock them out. They may therefore require a thorough clean before the new ones will go in. Even when clean, the pads will be snug in the carrier. Thanks for getting in touch.
@@greenautoservices I`ve done it like 4 times in my life. they rub for a few miles....lol
Effectively..... Literally.... Obviously..... Eventually.... Unfortunately.... Physically... Inevitably.... Exactly....
My mechanic charges for new rotor (aud $370 a pair) every time a new brake pad (aud $87 a pair), I thought the rotor should last much longer than the pads ?! Why can't they make pads (a bit softer) so they don't grind the rotor ?!
So this is a great scenario and a common question to ask. Typically, brake discs (rotors) are designed to take 2 sets of brake pads but not the other way round. It’s quite excessive to need to change discs (rotors) every time you change pads. Saying that, there other factors that can prematurely wear rotors such as corrosion, seized calipers/sliders etc. So maybe you’re just unlucky with other factors. However, as long as all mechanical components are doing what they should be doing then you should only need to replace rotors every 2nd set of pads. Maybe ask your mechanic to show you your rotors once he’s changed then 🫣 Hope that makes sense and helps. Thanks for getting in touch and thanks for your support 👍
Cheers buddy 👍
Pleasure, thanks for getting in touch :)
Never let the break caliper hang from the flexi hose. Bad practice displayed hear! Good practice is to hang it from the spring ect
ty. ty ty
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